I'm just dipping my toes into this at the mo. got a 120x120 pre heater, it's ok too small. bought 2 x 120 ir plates and a 180x 180 trying to figure out the box is more difficult than anticipated. I have the same controllers you have and top heater. so when it finely all gets assembled this will be me. All helpful stuff these videos. all the best.
Once again great video, you sure are pumping them out, I can’t hardly keep up with just liking and commenting. For cleaning off the flux you need to use an ultrasonic cleaner, you can get large models pretty cheap on ali, I’m planning to get one early next year, once I actually choose what BGA setup I want. But after seeing that most of it cooked off, a simple spray with some IPA should wash off any extra. About the last part of the BGA heating process is called the re-flow section (the 230C section you mentioned), it ensures that indeed everything has connected without any weak or dry joins, and its normally around 40 to 60 seconds of the last part of the BGA curve. (and yeah 160 seconds to way to long) But you can program this so how ever long you want, depending on ambient temperatures etc. Also some other things I have been learning. Any IC such as chipsets or GPU’s with reflective surfaces will reflect the IR heat away from the IC causing uneven heating on those IC’s. But saying that it would be interesting to see how that effects things in practise. It has been fun watching and learning from your videos about this machine, For me BGA is the next big step I will take in my repair journey. After seeing this video im 50/50 reconsidering buying a similar machine.
yeah, I was thinking of using ultrasonic cleaner when I was working on this one, but my cleaner is nowhere near large enough to accommodate the entire board. As long as you know how to use it, this machine is not bad but I would like a better one for sure, so if you can afford $3200 for a real BGA rework station definitely go for it. As soon as I have that kinda extra money this will be my first purchase :) Thank you so much for your feedback!
Another tip I will give you is to tie the Thermocouple to the flexible light so you can use the flexible arm to place the thermocouple wherever you desire albeit the light will be fixed to a specific spot but it's more important that it stays fixed and doesn't move.
yeah, I looked into that one but $1k for upgraded bottom heater doesn't make sense to me. I'll save up some money and see if I can get something more professional
I saw Louis Rossman was using a different flux on the machine he has. I think it was some type of Kester flux I think? And I recall it being really thin and clear. On your thermocouple issue.... I think you either need a clamp like an alligator clip or something you can clamp onto something without it moving and it would have good surface contact. Another thought was a small tungston weight with a hole in the middle where the thermocouple can be glued into. Gold would work too...but it's more expensive than tungston. I guess steel would work as well but it's not as dense as tungsten....tungston? I can't spell and I hate spell check.
Once I get more proficient I'll test more types of flux. The weight on the thermocouple is a great idea, I'll look into that, I never really considered using gravity to hold the thermocouple, that's some great ducking idea (yeah, I hate spellcheck/autocorrect too) :D LOL
Congrats cracking the problems. Started looking at building one until looking at controls and mostly fake from China. Those plates are 240x60 and comes in fours at approx 35 dollars for the four with clips with free shipping 600 watt each, on AE
Thank you so much! Let me know how the build turned out, I was actually considering replacing the bottom heater before today, but removing the glass worked great
I'm a mechanical engineer and I am a very good one. Tried to make one myself. Managed to make one myself. I can tell you right here and right now that the amount of problems you will encounter is baffling unless you have a 3D printer and a CNC machine available for you all the time. Counted my hours, counted my aggravations and I can tell you right now it's way better, easier and more productive to buy one, learn to use it according to your needs and doing some tweaking to make it perform the way you want it to perform.
Most certainly a copy from the original ir6500 and seen so many copy versions of this machine. It is hard to get the original of this machine which was not even perfect.
Hello! You can upgrade the top heater with this one: Elstein RFS80 IR plate, better and uniform heating. If you could use a thermal camera to have a better idea of the heating area. Videos for help to make the profile th-cam.com/video/Mz5FDDwd86Q/w-d-xo.html ; th-cam.com/video/v6RHuUQJmh8/w-d-xo.html. The problem with IR is popcorn effect when there is little moisture trapped inside the PCB fiber. Hot air rework station is better in those cases.
I used paper to visualize the temperature distribution, I tried thermal camera but since this is IR heater the camera picks up higher temperature than the actual. I checked out the video you suggested, my profile is very similar, but I do believe that every machine is slightly different, enough to require tweaking for each job (board thickness, copper plane size etc.) Yeah, hot air seems to be easier in many ways but takes longer than IR, I might switch back to hot air if I find an affordable tool. Thank you so much!
Glad you figured it out
Thank you so much!
I'm just dipping my toes into this at the mo. got a 120x120 pre heater, it's ok too small. bought 2 x 120 ir plates and a 180x 180 trying to figure out the box is more difficult than anticipated. I have the same controllers you have and top heater. so when it finely all gets assembled this will be me. All helpful stuff these videos. all the best.
Building your own tools always gives you more value than just buying one. Good luck and let me know how it works
Once again great video, you sure are pumping them out, I can’t hardly keep up with just liking and commenting. For cleaning off the flux you need to use an ultrasonic cleaner, you can get large models pretty cheap on ali, I’m planning to get one early next year, once I actually choose what BGA setup I want. But after seeing that most of it cooked off, a simple spray with some IPA should wash off any extra.
About the last part of the BGA heating process is called the re-flow section (the 230C section you mentioned), it ensures that indeed everything has connected without any weak or dry joins, and its normally around 40 to 60 seconds of the last part of the BGA curve. (and yeah 160 seconds to way to long) But you can program this so how ever long you want, depending on ambient temperatures etc.
Also some other things I have been learning. Any IC such as chipsets or GPU’s with reflective surfaces will reflect the IR heat away from the IC causing uneven heating on those IC’s. But saying that it would be interesting to see how that effects things in practise.
It has been fun watching and learning from your videos about this machine, For me BGA is the next big step I will take in my repair journey. After seeing this video im 50/50 reconsidering buying a similar machine.
yeah, I was thinking of using ultrasonic cleaner when I was working on this one, but my cleaner is nowhere near large enough to accommodate the entire board.
As long as you know how to use it, this machine is not bad but I would like a better one for sure, so if you can afford $3200 for a real BGA rework station definitely go for it. As soon as I have that kinda extra money this will be my first purchase :)
Thank you so much for your feedback!
Another tip I will give you is to tie the Thermocouple to the flexible light so you can use the flexible arm to place the thermocouple wherever you desire albeit the light will be fixed to a specific spot but it's more important that it stays fixed and doesn't move.
Interesting, I'll look into that, Thank you
You should consider ACHI IR PRO SC. It is the cheapest option and works flawless. I use T8280 with hot air but may consider upgrading soon.
yeah, I looked into that one but $1k for upgraded bottom heater doesn't make sense to me. I'll save up some money and see if I can get something more professional
I saw Louis Rossman was using a different flux on the machine he has.
I think it was some type of Kester flux I think? And I recall it being really thin and clear.
On your thermocouple issue.... I think you either need a clamp like an alligator clip or something you can clamp onto something without it moving and it would have good surface contact.
Another thought was a small tungston weight with a hole in the middle where the thermocouple can be glued into. Gold would work too...but it's more expensive than tungston. I guess steel would work as well but it's not as dense as tungsten....tungston? I can't spell and I hate spell check.
Once I get more proficient I'll test more types of flux.
The weight on the thermocouple is a great idea, I'll look into that, I never really considered using gravity to hold the thermocouple, that's some great ducking idea (yeah, I hate spellcheck/autocorrect too) :D LOL
Congrats cracking the problems. Started looking at building one until looking at controls and mostly fake from China. Those plates are 240x60 and comes in fours at approx 35 dollars for the four with clips with free shipping 600 watt each, on AE
Thank you so much! Let me know how the build turned out, I was actually considering replacing the bottom heater before today, but removing the glass worked great
I'm a mechanical engineer and I am a very good one. Tried to make one myself. Managed to make one myself. I can tell you right here and right now that the amount of problems you will encounter is baffling unless you have a 3D printer and a CNC machine available for you all the time. Counted my hours, counted my aggravations and I can tell you right now it's way better, easier and more productive to buy one, learn to use it according to your needs and doing some tweaking to make it perform the way you want it to perform.
Most certainly a copy from the original ir6500 and seen so many copy versions of this machine. It is hard to get the original of this machine which was not even perfect.
Hello! You can upgrade the top heater with this one: Elstein RFS80 IR plate, better and uniform heating. If you could use a thermal camera to have a better idea of the heating area. Videos for help to make the profile th-cam.com/video/Mz5FDDwd86Q/w-d-xo.html ; th-cam.com/video/v6RHuUQJmh8/w-d-xo.html. The problem with IR is popcorn effect when there is little moisture trapped inside the PCB fiber. Hot air rework station is better in those cases.
I used paper to visualize the temperature distribution, I tried thermal camera but since this is IR heater the camera picks up higher temperature than the actual.
I checked out the video you suggested, my profile is very similar, but I do believe that every machine is slightly different, enough to require tweaking for each job (board thickness, copper plane size etc.)
Yeah, hot air seems to be easier in many ways but takes longer than IR, I might switch back to hot air if I find an affordable tool. Thank you so much!
@@blackhorserepairs Thermal camera to directly look at the IR element itself, it looked like u used an IR thermometer.
@@saimirgjini3410 yep, you can see it here th-cam.com/video/AS1bF99J_Bc/w-d-xo.html
@@blackhorserepairs Didn't watch that video