@@smilemountainguides oh i missed that completely. hmmmm... im new to this so ill just give it my best shot lol. one on your hand, one on the other side of the grey carabiner, and then one on the other side of the blue carabiner plus another from that other bend in the masterpoint. then past the prussick i would add the one pulling directly. 5:1? might not be right but i tried lol
Hi, great video! I was curious on what you were using at the anchor as a uni-directional pulley. I typically use a prusic and a tending pulley, because I am too cheap to get a micro traction or similar device. do you have a better solution to capturing rope as you haul/assist? Thanks,
Thank you, in this video we're using a Kong Gi-Gi, a common belay device we use when belaying from the top. We're using this as a common climbing set-up and a situation climbers may find themselves in. Your solution is one of the more efficient if trying to keep the price down, a simple carabiner redirect offer low friction however the micro, specifically the pulley feature, would be our go to if we are looking for maximize efficiency. Hope that helps!
Hmmm, with no pulleys used, these are only redirects as far as i know physics... I rebuild the "5:1" system that you showed to haul a 12kg Kettlebell at home and scaled it. had to give it around 5 kg of force. So, my question is: is there any mechanical advantage at all with all the friction? Cause it should be a lot easier to haul if it was 5:1, right?
Thanks for the questions, hopefully we can add some clarity. The video do accurately show the system and their theoretical mechanical advantage (TMA) which was not expressly shared in the video. All this means is that we are not taking into account of friction in the system and the loss associated with the friction. As for your pulley comment, it's not very clear what your asking for us, however, pulleys would indeed increase the efficiency of the system. Pulley are a form of redirect just more efficient than carabiners. Hopefully this helps and thanks for asking!
Really solid explanation of hauling systems. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and we're glad you enjoyed the video. All the best
Just came across your channel. Good job on the explanation. Be safe and climb on!
Thanks you, happy that you enjoyed the video. All the best 💯
wow thanks this was really helpful!
Awesome, glad it helped. Have an answer to the quiz at the end? Happy to help if it was a bit hard to see! Best
@@smilemountainguides oh i missed that completely. hmmmm... im new to this so ill just give it my best shot lol.
one on your hand, one on the other side of the grey carabiner, and then one on the other side of the blue carabiner plus another from that other bend in the masterpoint. then past the prussick i would add the one pulling directly.
5:1?
might not be right but i tried lol
Hi, great video! I was curious on what you were using at the anchor as a uni-directional pulley. I typically use a prusic and a tending pulley, because I am too cheap to get a micro traction or similar device. do you have a better solution to capturing rope as you haul/assist?
Thanks,
Thank you, in this video we're using a Kong Gi-Gi, a common belay device we use when belaying from the top. We're using this as a common climbing set-up and a situation climbers may find themselves in. Your solution is one of the more efficient if trying to keep the price down, a simple carabiner redirect offer low friction however the micro, specifically the pulley feature, would be our go to if we are looking for maximize efficiency. Hope that helps!
In the final system MA is 5:1 . Am I right?
Correct 5:1 setting the climber performing the haul up the pull down with gravity. Thanks for answer, and for commenting. ❤️
Hmmm, with no pulleys used, these are only redirects as far as i know physics... I rebuild the "5:1" system that you showed to haul a 12kg Kettlebell at home and scaled it. had to give it around 5 kg of force. So, my question is: is there any mechanical advantage at all with all the friction? Cause it should be a lot easier to haul if it was 5:1, right?
Thanks for the questions, hopefully we can add some clarity. The video do accurately show the system and their theoretical mechanical advantage (TMA) which was not expressly shared in the video. All this means is that we are not taking into account of friction in the system and the loss associated with the friction. As for your pulley comment, it's not very clear what your asking for us, however, pulleys would indeed increase the efficiency of the system. Pulley are a form of redirect just more efficient than carabiners. Hopefully this helps and thanks for asking!
8:1