Kudos man. I've been doing this stuff a long time, from the angle of retail parts... wholesale parts.... mechinic... service advisor... ASE certified, and it's a passion of mine. You sir, are spot on every time you do a video (from what I've seen) great methodology, great advice, great ideas, and structured videos. Two thumbs up!
Long live the 3800 engine. My mom's car has same engine you have, with 450,000 miles. Still strong! As a member of several car repair forums, I can say this is a common problem and there are many people really get baffled by troubleshooting it. Here is an additional very easy test Direct Ignition Coils Secondary Resistance Testing - Delco and Magnavox
450k miles - not many of even these engines make it that far! I'm curious, how many times was the timing chain and/or tensioner replaced? I'm still on the original.
Its nice to see someone who has as much common sense as myself out there. Great video and it cost you nothing. Thanks for making your videos I enjoy them.
Most people think its a piece of junk, but i happen to like this one =) Love it! Transportation is transportation! Glad to see some more videos from ya!
My 91 buick lesabre just turned 31 this year. Got similar problem as you did. Missing on cylinder 6. Bought new ignition control module and coil box. Mine has the original grey one I think. Put new wires and plugs in it didn't fix my problem. Great video helps me out alot. Wish me luck I live in the rust belt.
Reminds me of my first car. A 1986 LeSabre. Looked almost identical to yours with the red cloth interior. Although that had a 3.0 and not the 3800. I loved that car.
Don't forget that GM came out with a "Delco type II" ignition system. It has 3 separate coils which are individually replaceable. If you go to the JY, you can make an upgrade.
I was wondering about that - Does the newer style ignition module/coil pack fit electrically with the older style module I have on this vehicle? I thought they added a ground to the connector and made a few other pinout changes?
***** They did indeed change the connection. Snip the pigtail off the car you yard the module/coil assembly from, and you can make that conversion happen, but I believe the only real benefit would be the ability to buy high voltage "Type II" coils available from guys like ACCELL and MSD
The supercharged coil packs are different than the naturally aspirated ones. You can recognize them by the color surrounding the 2 holes on the bottom of the coil packs. The S/C model has a blue part on the bottom and I've seen the N/A models with black and some with grey.
Innovative Solutions that color coding is true only if the vehicle is still equipped with delco coils and not some wells/standard ignition/BVD aftermarket coils. For identification, keep in mind a junkyard car probably has coils that have been replaced. Google images is your friend!
I love scrounging through the junkyards for parts and the occasional rare finds. Yes, it is the OEM Delco coil packs I speak of. Thanks for clarifying this.
I know these videos are old but damn I appreciate your time and effort. I have an 1989 Buick Electra with 150,000 miles and I feel the same... Even though I only paid $250 for it it's in decent enough shape that I want to see if I can get 300,000 on the odometer 😜 Old car? So what?! Cheers man!
These are great cars reliability wise - but the rest of the car may fall apart around you! Mine made it to 260k and ran perfectly up until I sold it. The transmission on these needs a fluid change with Dexron6 to last though. Lots of these 4T60 transmissions fail due to old fluid since they had an older dexronII or equivalent from the factory and once they get 10 years old and 100k miles people just never get around to changing it. Mine was still running on DexronIII from a fluid change at 50k miles in 1994 so I was part of the problem! I was very careful to not run the transmission hot though as I am on all my vehicles.
@@knurlgnar24 Thank you for the transmission advice! I don't know know the date of the last fluid change for me but I'll probably change it soon. I'm the third owner and the second owner had the car less than a year, so the service intervals were probably met pretty consistently. I performed the repair yesterday, and man... It really does blow my mind how smooth these cars ride when they're functioning properly! 🤯😁
Good video. Just a note that this isn't a 100% test - a weak coil may still light a spark plug at atmospheric pressure, but will fail to light at the higher pressures in the engine. I chased an ignition problem for weeks after all my coils appeared good, but one was weak! You can verify this by creating an adjustable spark gap with a couple nails. Wire it up to your coil, and adjust the gap until it doesn't light. Do it again with a known good coil and compare the maximum spark distance. Also of note, my weak coil was only weak at higher RPMs, so rev your engine a bit no matter how you test the spark.
Hello, first best wishes for this new year and thank you, you make a great job, I am looking for help, well I put myself in trouble => I think I overfilled my engine with oil, It is a "old baby", a Chevrolet S10 1987 (Durango) 2.8L V6, when I tried to start, it was ok but after maybe 20 s the engine stop, I drained the oil, now it cranks but doesn't start and no spark, with a friend we checked and changed plugs for new ones, please have you any idea
Hey, since I have your LeSabre's Oldsmobile-badged Twin (Same year to boot!), maybe you can help me out. It runs fine when it's cold, but when it gets up to running temp, it isn't happy. Slowing down and at idle, the rpms drop, the engine rattles, and you can feel it struggle (and see the headlights dim when at night), and occasionally stall. There aren't any problems starting it back up, I just throw it into neutral and it comes back to life. I've replaced the coils, some cracked vacuum lines, Cam sensor, and the Spark plugs (during general maintenance). It is definitely better than what it used to be by leaps and bounds, but this is one problem that seems to persist. I've had it to the local mechanic, and he's completely perplexed by it. Any help you can give me is much appreciated.
I'd like to add: this is ironic. I never reviewed this video until 10 minutes ago. I was watching this video looked like it was over, breaking news. the creator came back on mentioned he found an issue. A lose low side connection the blue wire. Im working on my 90 olds delta 88 royale burgham. I know I have ignition issues. I watched a few videos got pointers from each. i numbered the plug wires pulled them (DOING THIS ON A HUNCH) I've had the coils off my other olds, sticky mess! good story, another time. Colis were sealed good, pulled it off just enough to see. NO sticky mess, (Im second owner) 87,430 mi. the blue low side wire was off. it was snug tacky to the potentially turning sticky stuff. I never got so lucky, my olds didnt fire it did however restore power to my module connection WIRES. Prior to removing the coils I was unable to get a power indication. A WORD TO THE WISE REMOVE the hex screws from each side the module, work it lose, bend your head down there and look. Look good? visual done. Now gently pull at each connection, solid, not moving? oh one's moving? snug it gently, move on.
hey i have the same coil pack and i bought a new one but the new one does not have the 123456 marked on it so how do i know wich way to put the coil pack on? like how do i know the ground side and the low voltage side of the coil pack
How was your car running b4 u swapped the coils out mine is running fine but when u floor it,it surges and i hav 2 back of . Do u think this is a coil problem?
I think I have a bad ignition coil module on a 89 Buick LeSabre not getting no spark or fuel Redi Chek computer also ground wire underneath what ignition coil module cause no spark or fuel ?
I have a 3800 in my 1990 Trofeo. The engine was warming up then just died. I checked for spark, and got nothing with the plug removed. I looked at the connector to the ignition module and saw that 3 wires at the connector side were fried. So I just replaced the harness and am waiting for the ignition module because I still don't have ignition with the old module. Would the whole module go out or could something else be going on?
I'm not exactly sure but since the module provides power to the sensor it seems logical that the module itself was bad. I'm not sure how a bad sensor would cause fried wiring. Parts for these are cheap now so I agree that replacing the module makes sense. If that doesn't work I have a video on replacing the crank sensor which is a doable but more difficult procedure. They make modules like this tolerant of sensor faults so I wouldn't be concerned with burning out your new module if the sensor is also bad assuming you don't try to run it that way for too long.
@@knurlgnar24 I also found online, a troubleshooting guide on that 14 lead pinout. Hopefully I won't have to use it. The new Ign mod will be here tomorrow. TBD
Oh I know how it burned the harness, there's a positive voltage another positive and a ground, and there all 3 next to each other,(maybe not the exact order), and it looks like something caused one or all to overheat and they shorted but never blew the 20 amp fuse. Go figure. So on my new harness I double insulated those three or four wires on that one side of the connector that had the voltage and ground near each other and then I rewrapped everything because the old connector I had was pretty nasty looking to it looks like it had some oil had been on it who knows what but it's funny I posted my pictures of my shorted wiring on a Facebook account and three other people showed me their wires had also done the same thing for the same kind of car it's a 1990 trofeo. So I'm hoping my mummified wiring will last a little longer and like I say my new ignition module will be here tomorrow so wish me luck
Normally this would be replaced as a unit but the coils can be removed as shown in the video if desired. Unscrew it from the module, unplug the connectors, and swap out. It isn't made to be replaceable separately so it is possible the 'goo' will glue it together in your case.
I highly recommend only using the delco premium plugs like you did with any GM vehicle of this vintage. They're good and last a very long time - well in excess of 100k miles while staying well within gap spec. Delphi and AC Delco are the way to go for replacement parts on these. Comment approved!
My 92 lesabre is down.Just quit and has no spark but has fuel.Just recently got car.Most cars no one ever repairs anything.Already did a lot to make it useful and on a budget.Being an old school guy I found years ago working on these cars nobody changes wires or plugs or even a fuel filter or flush out the rad.Now when the car misfires they just change the coil that is missing.Changing this will help all of these cars out what is it the ignition module under the coils and new coils to go with it.Then you do have some spare parts that you can keep and re test nothing like having a spare coil or two hanging around.Oh make sure the part says made in the USA or Canada and not china parts for Buick,s very unreliable.Brand new window regulator not even a year in another Buick but a 20 year old one in a wrecker still worker lol can name many parts same out come be careful on cheap replacement parts.Remember your actually driving a car that is a car even has a cigar lighter in how many places.Even if you don,t smoke you can fill those clean ashtrays with lots of goodies like bulbs and spare parts like fuses keep on driving sure hope I find a quality ignition module.
@@knurlgnar24 I took plug wires off neither of them are firing. All of the coils wouldn't be bad. I've never had that to happen before. I'm thinking maybe the module went out.
Atleast from the gen1 up NEVER use used coils and preferably not used ignition modules. The 3800 is infamous for blowing coil packs. Just buy new coils. Coils are 10 a pop on amazon.
I know this is an old comment but I would never buy coils on Amazon. NEVER. OEM junkyard parts are by far the best value, new good brand name parts from an auto store are OK, new parts from the dealer are best but most people don't want to give their first born for them, and as far as online auto parts go Amazon is the absolute worst place you could possibly go for them. NEVER. just never.
@@knurlgnar24 Some, you have to look at what BRAND your getting. OEM uses aftermarket parts just rebranded to your vehicles make. Wreckers is great for alot of high cost parts or parts you cannot obtain but remember they are used and will work accordingly. With coils it's best to go new. I mentioned Amazon because they stand behind thier shit. Amazon is simply an ecommerce reseller. They don't manufacture just cuts the middle man. As for auto parts stores..... I went through countless CHEAP O'Reilly trash suspension parts. Sure they state lifetime warranty but when you get hassled by the parts guys you just don't wish to buy there. If I can get a walker oxygen sensor for under 10 dollars for my Dodge bit AutoZone wants 50 for the exact same part, I'm going the cheaper route lol😁
@@FF-7Sephiroth so I should charge the battery, and check the ignition control module. I see. It ran fine when I parked it, but after 5 years, it has nothing. My family thinks I should scrap it, but the engine only has 189,000 miles on it. It's not even halfway through being done in my opinion.
Popped my ignition module off and 3 of the 6 prongs had snapped off and was just laying there. Anyone have any idea what color wires go where? A diagram on the hook up off the module via color coded wires?
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[DRIP] ‘Love, Maybe’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U7hwHp95m1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Kudos man. I've been doing this stuff a long time, from the angle of retail parts... wholesale parts.... mechinic... service advisor... ASE certified, and it's a passion of mine. You sir, are spot on every time you do a video (from what I've seen) great methodology, great advice, great ideas, and structured videos. Two thumbs up!
Thanks!!
Long live the 3800 engine. My mom's car has same engine you have, with 450,000 miles. Still strong!
As a member of several car repair forums, I can say this is a common problem and there are many people really get baffled by troubleshooting it. Here is an additional very easy test Direct Ignition Coils Secondary Resistance Testing - Delco and Magnavox
450k miles - not many of even these engines make it that far! I'm curious, how many times was the timing chain and/or tensioner replaced? I'm still on the original.
i am addicted to your inverter repair/review videos I need more, nice repair btw
Its nice to see someone who has as much common sense as myself out there. Great video and it cost you nothing. Thanks for making your videos I enjoy them.
Most people think its a piece of junk, but i happen to like this one =)
Love it! Transportation is transportation! Glad to see some more videos from ya!
My 91 buick lesabre just turned 31 this year. Got similar problem as you did. Missing on cylinder 6. Bought new ignition control module and coil box. Mine has the original grey one I think. Put new wires and plugs in it didn't fix my problem. Great video helps me out alot. Wish me luck I live in the rust belt.
Reminds me of my first car. A 1986 LeSabre. Looked almost identical to yours with the red cloth interior. Although that had a 3.0 and not the 3800. I loved that car.
Don't forget that GM came out with a "Delco type II" ignition system. It has 3 separate coils which are individually replaceable. If you go to the JY, you can make an upgrade.
I was wondering about that - Does the newer style ignition module/coil pack fit electrically with the older style module I have on this vehicle? I thought they added a ground to the connector and made a few other pinout changes?
***** They did indeed change the connection. Snip the pigtail off the car you yard the module/coil assembly from, and you can make that conversion happen, but I believe the only real benefit would be the ability to buy high voltage "Type II" coils available from guys like ACCELL and MSD
The supercharged coil packs are different than the naturally aspirated ones. You can recognize them by the color surrounding the 2 holes on the bottom of the coil packs. The S/C model has a blue part on the bottom and I've seen the N/A models with black and some with grey.
Innovative Solutions that color coding is true only if the vehicle is still equipped with delco coils and not some wells/standard ignition/BVD aftermarket coils. For identification, keep in mind a junkyard car probably has coils that have been replaced. Google images is your friend!
I love scrounging through the junkyards for parts and the occasional rare finds. Yes, it is the OEM Delco coil packs I speak of. Thanks for clarifying this.
I know these videos are old but damn I appreciate your time and effort. I have an 1989 Buick Electra with 150,000 miles and I feel the same... Even though I only paid $250 for it it's in decent enough shape that I want to see if I can get 300,000 on the odometer 😜 Old car? So what?! Cheers man!
These are great cars reliability wise - but the rest of the car may fall apart around you! Mine made it to 260k and ran perfectly up until I sold it. The transmission on these needs a fluid change with Dexron6 to last though. Lots of these 4T60 transmissions fail due to old fluid since they had an older dexronII or equivalent from the factory and once they get 10 years old and 100k miles people just never get around to changing it. Mine was still running on DexronIII from a fluid change at 50k miles in 1994 so I was part of the problem! I was very careful to not run the transmission hot though as I am on all my vehicles.
@@knurlgnar24 Thank you for the transmission advice! I don't know know the date of the last fluid change for me but I'll probably change it soon. I'm the third owner and the second owner had the car less than a year, so the service intervals were probably met pretty consistently. I performed the repair yesterday, and man... It really does blow my mind how smooth these cars ride when they're functioning properly! 🤯😁
We always enjoy your videos!
Good video. Just a note that this isn't a 100% test - a weak coil may still light a spark plug at atmospheric pressure, but will fail to light at the higher pressures in the engine. I chased an ignition problem for weeks after all my coils appeared good, but one was weak! You can verify this by creating an adjustable spark gap with a couple nails. Wire it up to your coil, and adjust the gap until it doesn't light. Do it again with a known good coil and compare the maximum spark distance.
Also of note, my weak coil was only weak at higher RPMs, so rev your engine a bit no matter how you test the spark.
For the first time, I'm first. :) Good to see you back, Knurlgnar.
Thank you. I'm having that problem now. But mine is broke 😕so I had to get a new one
the inverter repair is pretty much interesting, hope you make a video about how to convert modified wave inverter to pure sine inverter
Welcome back knurlgnar24..It's been a long time since your last video.
Hello, first best wishes for this new year and thank you, you make a great job, I am looking for help, well I put myself in trouble => I think I overfilled my engine with oil, It is a "old baby", a Chevrolet S10 1987 (Durango) 2.8L V6, when I tried to start, it was ok but after maybe 20 s the engine stop, I drained the oil, now it cranks but doesn't start and no spark, with a friend we checked and changed plugs for new ones, please have you any idea
Hey, since I have your LeSabre's Oldsmobile-badged Twin (Same year to boot!), maybe you can help me out.
It runs fine when it's cold, but when it gets up to running temp, it isn't happy. Slowing down and at idle, the rpms drop, the engine rattles, and you can feel it struggle (and see the headlights dim when at night), and occasionally stall.
There aren't any problems starting it back up, I just throw it into neutral and it comes back to life. I've replaced the coils, some cracked vacuum lines, Cam sensor, and the Spark plugs (during general maintenance).
It is definitely better than what it used to be by leaps and bounds, but this is one problem that seems to persist. I've had it to the local mechanic, and he's completely perplexed by it.
Any help you can give me is much appreciated.
I'd like to add: this is ironic. I never reviewed this video until 10 minutes ago. I was watching this video looked like it was over, breaking news. the creator came back on mentioned he found an issue.
A lose low side connection the blue wire. Im working on my 90 olds delta 88 royale burgham. I know I have ignition issues. I watched a few videos got pointers from each. i numbered the plug wires pulled them (DOING THIS ON A HUNCH) I've had the coils off my other olds, sticky mess! good story, another time. Colis were sealed good, pulled it off just enough to see. NO sticky mess, (Im second owner) 87,430 mi. the blue low side wire was off. it was snug tacky to the potentially turning sticky stuff. I never got so lucky, my olds didnt fire it did however restore power to my module connection WIRES. Prior to removing the coils I was unable to get a power indication. A WORD TO THE WISE REMOVE the hex screws from each side the module, work it lose, bend your head down there and look. Look good? visual done. Now gently pull at each connection, solid, not moving? oh one's moving? snug it gently, move on.
hey i have the same coil pack and i bought a new one but the new one does not have the 123456 marked on it so how do i know wich way to put the coil pack on? like how do i know the ground side and the low voltage side of the coil pack
How was your car running b4 u swapped the coils out mine is running fine but when u floor it,it surges and i hav 2 back of . Do u think this is a coil problem?
I have seen by replacing just one bad coil is the fix however so many say that all the coil packs should be changed is this not true?
Hey I’m replacing the same part and I have this type of ignition coil pack but I don’t know the order can help me please
Good job i like these older cars myself.
I think I have a bad ignition coil module on a 89 Buick LeSabre not getting no spark or fuel Redi Chek computer also ground wire underneath what ignition coil module cause no spark or fuel ?
I have a 3800 in my 1990 Trofeo. The engine was warming up then just died. I checked for spark, and got nothing with the plug removed. I looked at the connector to the ignition module and saw that 3 wires at the connector side were fried. So I just replaced the harness and am waiting for the ignition module because I still don't have ignition with the old module. Would the whole module go out or could something else be going on?
I'm not exactly sure but since the module provides power to the sensor it seems logical that the module itself was bad. I'm not sure how a bad sensor would cause fried wiring. Parts for these are cheap now so I agree that replacing the module makes sense. If that doesn't work I have a video on replacing the crank sensor which is a doable but more difficult procedure. They make modules like this tolerant of sensor faults so I wouldn't be concerned with burning out your new module if the sensor is also bad assuming you don't try to run it that way for too long.
@@knurlgnar24 I also found online, a troubleshooting guide on that 14 lead pinout. Hopefully I won't have to use it. The new Ign mod will be here tomorrow. TBD
Oh I know how it burned the harness, there's a positive voltage another positive and a ground, and there all 3 next to each other,(maybe not the exact order), and it looks like something caused one or all to overheat and they shorted but never blew the 20 amp fuse. Go figure. So on my new harness I double insulated those three or four wires on that one side of the connector that had the voltage and ground near each other and then I rewrapped everything because the old connector I had was pretty nasty looking to it looks like it had some oil had been on it who knows what but it's funny I posted my pictures of my shorted wiring on a Facebook account and three other people showed me their wires had also done the same thing for the same kind of car it's a 1990 trofeo. So I'm hoping my mummified wiring will last a little longer and like I say my new ignition module will be here tomorrow so wish me luck
How do you change out the coil with all the goo in it? Clean it off the connectors?
Normally this would be replaced as a unit but the coils can be removed as shown in the video if desired. Unscrew it from the module, unplug the connectors, and swap out. It isn't made to be replaceable separately so it is possible the 'goo' will glue it together in your case.
Have you ever installed a PCV valve this type of engine ?
my car+g.prix was running on 4. 2 plugs were about to fall out.not sure why but fixed with all irridium ac delco. coils will be Delphi.
I highly recommend only using the delco premium plugs like you did with any GM vehicle of this vintage. They're good and last a very long time - well in excess of 100k miles while staying well within gap spec. Delphi and AC Delco are the way to go for replacement parts on these. Comment approved!
My 92 lesabre is down.Just quit and has no spark but has fuel.Just recently got car.Most cars no one ever repairs anything.Already did a lot to make it useful and on a budget.Being an old school guy I found years ago working on these cars nobody changes wires or plugs or even a fuel filter or flush out the rad.Now when the car misfires they just change the coil that is missing.Changing this will help all of these cars out what is it the ignition module under the coils and new coils to go with it.Then you do have some spare parts that you can keep and re test nothing like having a spare coil or two hanging around.Oh make sure the part says made in the USA or Canada and not china parts for Buick,s very unreliable.Brand new window regulator not even a year in another Buick but a 20 year old one in a wrecker still worker lol can name many parts same out come be careful on cheap replacement parts.Remember your actually driving a car that is a car even has a cigar lighter in how many places.Even if you don,t smoke you can fill those clean ashtrays with lots of goodies like bulbs and spare parts like fuses keep on driving sure hope I find a quality ignition module.
I've got the same engine. I've changed cam and crank sensor , all fuses and relays are good.Still not firing.
Have you verified if you have spark? Checked for fuel delivery? eg starting fluid.
@@knurlgnar24 I took plug wires off neither of them are firing. All of the coils wouldn't be bad. I've never had that to happen before. I'm thinking maybe the module went out.
Fuel delivery is well.
Atleast from the gen1 up NEVER use used coils and preferably not used ignition modules. The 3800 is infamous for blowing coil packs. Just buy new coils. Coils are 10 a pop on amazon.
I know this is an old comment but I would never buy coils on Amazon. NEVER. OEM junkyard parts are by far the best value, new good brand name parts from an auto store are OK, new parts from the dealer are best but most people don't want to give their first born for them, and as far as online auto parts go Amazon is the absolute worst place you could possibly go for them. NEVER. just never.
@@knurlgnar24
Some, you have to look at what BRAND your getting. OEM uses aftermarket parts just rebranded to your vehicles make. Wreckers is great for alot of high cost parts or parts you cannot obtain but remember they are used and will work accordingly. With coils it's best to go new. I mentioned Amazon because they stand behind thier shit. Amazon is simply an ecommerce reseller. They don't manufacture just cuts the middle man. As for auto parts stores..... I went through countless CHEAP O'Reilly trash suspension parts. Sure they state lifetime warranty but when you get hassled by the parts guys you just don't wish to buy there. If I can get a walker oxygen sensor for under 10 dollars for my Dodge bit AutoZone wants 50 for the exact same part, I'm going the cheaper route lol😁
@@FF-7Sephiroth so I should charge the battery, and check the ignition control module. I see. It ran fine when I parked it, but after 5 years, it has nothing. My family thinks I should scrap it, but the engine only has 189,000 miles on it. It's not even halfway through being done in my opinion.
can you use your clamp meter to see if they are working?
Cant' use a clamp meter, but I could have tested the continuity and resistance of the secondary coils.
good vid man...Art
Waiting for some video about power inverter...
Thank You! ! !
Great job!
Duct tape Garage
Popped my ignition module off and 3 of the 6 prongs had snapped off and was just laying there. Anyone have any idea what color wires go where? A diagram on the hook up off the module via color coded wires?
The 3 blue wires go to bank 1 and are lined out in order usually. On bank 2, blue goes to 6, green goes to 2, and yellow goes to 4
What size is the tensioner pulley bolt
I think I used a 3/4 on mine. Or it might be an 18mm
just have your friend hold it
You coulda lettuce hearder purrrr! Second!!!!!! yeah I don't get out much.
i bet a vacume gadge would test those.