Whenever I see that Ralph has posted a new video, I stop whatever I'm doing, sit down and pay attention. There is always so much to learn and his videos are consistently exceptional. 73 OM 👍
One thing I learned a long time ago, buy name brand ferrite. Only thing in use in my shack and on my work bench's is Fair-Rite brand. Buy once, cry once. Well worth the additional cost in my opinion. The three handiest mixes for use in amateur radio are type 31, 43 and 61. Just be sure to pick the correct mix for the frequency of concern.
Hi, just about all Toriod cores for Unun's are recommended 43 mix. According to my charts 43 has the frequency range 25MHz - 300MHz. This does not cover example 80M,60M,40M etc bands. Why are we not advised to use 31 mix at range 1MHz - 300MHz. Thanks
@@leakyboatent Well ... THAT is a worthy conundrum! The reason is that toroids have two possible main purposes. First is EMI suppression. Second are transformers such as BALUNs and UNUNs. The mixes used for each of these applications are different. Using your example, you can use the 43 mix for EMI suppression in the 25-300MHz range and for transformer application in the 1 MHz to 300 MHz (using your numbers without looking them up for myself). Does this make sense? 🙂
To be fair, they all had a similar suppression pattern, rite? (some of you will see what I did there ;) You'd just have to use more for that specific cheaper brand, totally fine for an application that doesn't need to be visually appealing. That said, I would still pay more to know that the frequencies I want to suppress are actually being suppressed vs taking a shot in the dark and wasting money on nothing. Quality products require quality engineers, quality engineers cost good money. I will spend money good on Koala-T!
@@jampskan5690 None of these very generic ferrites will "fess up" to who they are manufactured by. No markings of any kind. Yup ... pay for the quality and enjoy the performance. 🙂
VNAs are great tools, and the availability of the inexpensive ones is great for the hobbyist. As for ferrites, I spent a lot of time working on EMC problems, and a selection of clip-on ferrites is very handy. Our lab used Fair-rite ferrites mostly. You do need to select the correct material for the frequency range of interest, and you should select the ferrite that fits snugly around the cable. The impedance of the ferrite will be reduced when there is a gap. As you note, you do need to read the data sheet and understand it. Measuring the ferrite is useful, but be aware that they usually have a large tolerance. I recall that a tolerance of 25% was pretty typical. It's more useful to just buy a good ferrite from Fair-rite or Wurth or other reputable supplier.
Great job, thanks.I had a problem with my washing machine on 80m. I purchased from Mouser 2 clip-on ferrite beads that worked best at low frequencies. The idea was that I was able to look at the datasheets with curves. I then clipped them on the power cord of the washing machine, with 2 wraps each. It worked. Buying a known ferrite is the best!
I LOVE the success stories! 🙂 I wish I could put a ferrite on the entire city of Dubuque! We have an S7 to S9 noise level here and it is guys to the south of the city and guys to the north all have the same issue. I've turned off my own main breaker and ran my radio off battery ... no difference. 😞
@@eie_for_you I know of what you speak! Keep after it, you will find what it is eventually! I have had s7-s9 noise here in my town, which is power line induced. It changes with weather, and seems to follow a HV feeder that passes my house about 300 ft to the east of my house . 4 or 5 blocks on either side of the line, the noise tapers off. It also reduced a lot last spring, but it seems to be coming back. Interesting thing, I had the power line drop coming to the house from the alley put underground (at my own expense) to give me more room for antenna construction, and while that was in process I noticed my neighbor had his power drop from the pole to the house and it was rubbing on a large tree limb. I noticed also that someone (doubt it was the utilities people) had wrapped what looked like part of a rubber door mat around where it contacted the tree and secured it with zip ties. So, I will be looking at this a little closer when the weather warms up this spring! I suspect that there was or is still leakage to the tree when the tree is moving in the wind, and it makes its way back to the feeder by the transformer in the alley passing the noise to the primary side. It then radiates out from that line which runs to a much larger substation 5-6 blocks north of me. 73 and good hunting!
Ralph, I'm sure you know this already, but I'll state it for the benefit of your audience. 3 turns of a wire through a single ferrite would be MUCH more effective than a single wire passing through 3 ferrites. If you're shopping, buy larger diameter ferrites and wind your wire/coax through as many time as it will fit, I recommend a minimum of 3 turns for good attenuation. Type 31 and/or 43 are great for common mode or noise attenuation in the ham bands. I really like your testing jig, and will make one. The multi-turn effect could be easily demonstrated using it. Thanks for your very informative channel. I enjoy one or more of your vids just about every day.
There ye go! Each additional turn adds some benefit. But, it is the law of diminishing returns, as I show in the video. Yes, each additional turn adds more benefit, but less than the previously added turn. 🙂
When you say "turns" you mean winding the wire through the hole and around the outside of the body of the ferrite, as in repeating loops through the ferrite?
@@echadmiyodea Each pass through the ferrite is a "turn." The key is that the wire passes *through* the ferrite. Having it beside the ferrite, on the outside, doesn't count. 🙂
Up to a point. Inter-turn capacitance (mutual inductance in the case of shielded cable) will affect the higher frequency performance. But if you cascade one single turn and one multi-turn, perhaps you get the best of both worlds. I don't have the kit to measure that, unfortunately.
Very informative and well-done video! Thank you so much for completing these tests and sharing your test results. Blessings to you and your family. ~ 73 ~ AC7WH - C.A.R.S.
I don't recall you mentioning anything about the ferrite material. That makes a big difference too. A question how much difference does the split core make. They are convenient but at what price to performance?
I did, indeed, make a note to pick the right material for the job. Good point about the split core. I would assume that the split core is a compromise for the convenience of being a clip on. I'm not sure how much that affects overall performance. 🙂
Per the comments, you get what you actually should be buying. Ferrites come in all sorts of dissipation ranges and losses. Some are virtually lossless and we used these in HF transformers. The FairRite company catalog is a very good reference source for the actual specs. We did EMI/EMC engineering with these types of things, and they are often ineffective on cables, since that depends on placement. EMI is a common problem now from spread spectrum computer power suppies, and one bead is not going to add much to attenuating the noise level. The cable lengths act as antennas at specific resonant frequencies, so unless you emplace different freq-ranges of ferrites, you won't get much attenuation over a large band. As per the video, the "longer the bead" the better the attentuation. An actual pipe would be the best.
When many people look at all of these specifications, their eyes glaze over, not sure what it all means. This is why, in the end, if we are not sure what we are looking at when we look at the catalog, their is always customer support. 🙂
When putting two chokes in series, I'm interested what happens if you put two turns on just one of them. I would expect to see a better low frequency performance.
Just a little real-world experience with common mode suppression at high power levels: start with 3-4 ferrites at the beginning that only suppress a little, as they heat up less. Then use ones that suppress more effectively later on, since heat degrade their suppression, especially in the summer.
Nice video! Is there significance to the clip leads of your fixture being 90 degrees apart leaving the connectors? Or is that just describing what you did? Reduce magnetic coupling in the fixture?
Thank you! It is to reduce the signal coupling for the isolation tests. Conductors at 90 degrees to each other have a lot harder time inducing signals in each other.🙂
Very helpful. I am experimenting with Flowerpot Antennas for 2m and 70cm and for digital vhf radio. I guess they will do the job but they are not great. Cherio, Peter DL2FBA
@eie_for_you Before I saw this video, I had a bit of a problem of having cheapo snap ons and proper ones on the shelf. I gotta test this out. Oh, and same for toroids! Good luck trying to remember which ones were #43, #31 and #52 mixes! A bit of paint on the side wouldn't hurt on manufacturing side. Though, dumb user like me forgot to mark down what they were when I got them
@@OH8EFI A lot of toroids are, indeed, color coded ... if you can remember what the codes mean. At least you can group them by color! 😁 If I remember right, Amidon tells you what their color codes mean on their data sheets. 🙂
Thank you! Putting the wire multiple times thought the ferrite is similar to adding ferrites to the wire. It sounds like a good experiment for your bench! 🙂
@@eie_for_you i don't mean that you multiple times. You have a output signal, go thourh the ferrit and goes to the input of your mesure instrument. The current goes over GND in the intstrument back. But look of the most time used. The roudn trip line goes thouth the ferrit.
@@eie_for_you if you use ferrite beads in data lines then you have two lines through them. A data line and a gnd line. In your experiment you only have the data line. The ground connection goes an other way
Is there a way to determine the "Impedance" of an "EFHW" End Fed Half Wave - Long Wire antenna using a "Nano VNA" so that I can choose the correct ratio 1:1 / 4:1 / 9:1 / 49:1 or even perhaps a 64:1 UnUn Matching Transformer. so that I can be confident it is Matched to 50 Ohms for my Radio.
@@galileo_rs First of all, I'm not sure if you are trying to measure its end-to-end response or its its swr or its impedance. Could you please be more clear in what you are trying to accomplish? Second, I do not do acronyms. I can only guess at a host of possible meanings which does not help in clear communication. 🙂
@ Aaaaaaaahhhh! I missed that! When I click on the comment, it doesn't bring up what came before and it gives no indication to me that I have some context to consider. Sorry for the misunderstanding! The VNA needs both the signal and the return. A simple wire hanging out there without some sort of return path won't work. Your end fed half wave antenna also needs a "counterpoise" as I understand it. This functions as the "return path" for the feedline. So, if you have your antenna and its counterpoise connected to the nanoVNA, then it will, indeed, tell you what it sees. I hope this helps. Again, sorry for the misunderstanding. 🙂
Excellent video. Compairing cheap amazon clip on ferrite devices to a larger piece of ferrite from fair-rite isn't really a fair comparison. You did a great job showing that the fair-rite device is superior, but amazon ferrites are a fraction of the cost....and if you don't need a tremendous amount of attenuation, then a few turns around the amazon clip on ferrites are probably good enough and will cost less.
Thank you! I don't know if you noticed that I compared a similar size cheap Amazon tubular ferrite to a very generic box style to a genuine Fair-Rite box style. You are right, though, if you do not need a lot of attenuation, then the cheapies will work just fine. It is all about the application. Figure out what you need and select the ferrite that will do it for you. 🙂
Well ... the cost is very, very supplier specific. So, quoting costs wouldn't be too helpful here. Furthermore, there are a lot more factors involved than just cost ... like space considerations and dissipation factors and more. This is why you have to do your homework. 🙂
Excellent video! Black ceramic can be made with any kind of junk, and the people who sell them are only after your money, with the least amount of outlay on their part. And you have no way of telling from any of their ads if they are worth anything until you buy them and try them...
Yeah ... they aren't always a cheap as we would like, but if we want to get the job done, we have to pay the price, eh? I'm glad that you found the video helpful. 🙂
Good idea. It did look like the wire wasn't insulated and I'd probably like to run an insulated wire just to make this more realistic. I have purchased my ferrites from a source I think is having a decent assortment. I did pick them based on the quality impression they gave and not on what they stated on ebay or some other grey web trading site like the jungle site. (Robot Cantina name for a well known site)
Thank you! Here is a quote from one of the other comments that might help ... "The three handiest mixes for use in amateur radio are type 31, 43 and 61. Just be sure to pick the correct mix for the frequency of concern." When in doubt, contact the manufacturer. They are often very helpful in selecting a ferrite for your application from among their products. 🙂
You need a 2 port measuring device to do this measurement. The Stick 500 is a single port device; it measures things like SWR, return loss, impedance, and the like. It cannot measure things like filter frequency response. This ferrite business is, in essence, a frequency response-type test. 🙂
Kinda, sorta true ... when we pass the wire through a single ferrite multiple times it is very much like putting the clip on ferrite on an existing inductor. The turns of the wire like that create a coil (read inductor). The ferrite, then, makes the inductance of this inductor even larger. So, we get *more* effect with three turns through the same ferrite than we would with three of the same ferrite in a row on a single wire/cable. 🙂
Whenever I see that Ralph has posted a new video, I stop whatever I'm doing, sit down and pay attention. There is always so much to learn and his videos are consistently exceptional. 73 OM 👍
Thanks! That is very encouraging. 🙂
One thing I learned a long time ago, buy name brand ferrite. Only thing in use in my shack and on my work bench's is Fair-Rite brand. Buy once, cry once. Well worth the additional cost in my opinion. The three handiest mixes for use in amateur radio are type 31, 43 and 61. Just be sure to pick the correct mix for the frequency of concern.
Great advice! I cannot agree more. Ya get what you pay for! 🙂
Hi, just about all Toriod cores for Unun's are recommended 43 mix.
According to my charts 43 has the frequency range 25MHz - 300MHz.
This does not cover example 80M,60M,40M etc bands.
Why are we not advised to use 31 mix at range 1MHz - 300MHz.
Thanks
@@leakyboatent Well ... THAT is a worthy conundrum! The reason is that toroids have two possible main purposes. First is EMI suppression. Second are transformers such as BALUNs and UNUNs. The mixes used for each of these applications are different. Using your example, you can use the 43 mix for EMI suppression in the 25-300MHz range and for transformer application in the 1 MHz to 300 MHz (using your numbers without looking them up for myself).
Does this make sense? 🙂
To be fair, they all had a similar suppression pattern, rite? (some of you will see what I did there ;) You'd just have to use more for that specific cheaper brand, totally fine for an application that doesn't need to be visually appealing. That said, I would still pay more to know that the frequencies I want to suppress are actually being suppressed vs taking a shot in the dark and wasting money on nothing. Quality products require quality engineers, quality engineers cost good money. I will spend money good on Koala-T!
@@jampskan5690 None of these very generic ferrites will "fess up" to who they are manufactured by. No markings of any kind. Yup ... pay for the quality and enjoy the performance. 🙂
Excellent video.
Thanks! 🙂
I really like your useful presentation, explanation, information, video and audio. Thank you.
Thank you so much ... and you are very welcome! 🙂
VNAs are great tools, and the availability of the inexpensive ones is great for the hobbyist. As for ferrites, I spent a lot of time working on EMC problems, and a selection of clip-on ferrites is very handy. Our lab used Fair-rite ferrites mostly. You do need to select the correct material for the frequency range of interest, and you should select the ferrite that fits snugly around the cable. The impedance of the ferrite will be reduced when there is a gap. As you note, you do need to read the data sheet and understand it. Measuring the ferrite is useful, but be aware that they usually have a large tolerance. I recall that a tolerance of 25% was pretty typical. It's more useful to just buy a good ferrite from Fair-rite or Wurth or other reputable supplier.
Thank you for the great advise! I cannot agree with you more. 🙂
Great job, thanks.I had a problem with my washing machine on 80m. I purchased from Mouser 2 clip-on ferrite beads that worked best at low frequencies. The idea was that I was able to look at the datasheets with curves. I then clipped them on the power cord of the washing machine, with 2 wraps each. It worked. Buying a known ferrite is the best!
I LOVE the success stories! 🙂
I wish I could put a ferrite on the entire city of Dubuque! We have an S7 to S9 noise level here and it is guys to the south of the city and guys to the north all have the same issue. I've turned off my own main breaker and ran my radio off battery ... no difference. 😞
@@eie_for_you I know of what you speak! Keep after it, you will find what it is eventually! I have had s7-s9 noise here in my town, which is power line induced. It changes with weather, and seems to follow a HV feeder that passes my house about 300 ft to the east of my house . 4 or 5 blocks on either side of the line, the noise tapers off. It also reduced a lot last spring, but it seems to be coming back. Interesting thing, I had the power line drop coming to the house from the alley put underground (at my own expense) to give me more room for antenna construction, and while that was in process I noticed my neighbor had his power drop from the pole to the house and it was rubbing on a large tree limb. I noticed also that someone (doubt it was the utilities people) had wrapped what looked like part of a rubber door mat around where it contacted the tree and secured it with zip ties. So, I will be looking at this a little closer when the weather warms up this spring! I suspect that there was or is still leakage to the tree when the tree is moving in the wind, and it makes its way back to the feeder by the transformer in the alley passing the noise to the primary side. It then radiates out from that line which runs to a much larger substation 5-6 blocks north of me. 73 and good hunting!
@@arnoldgrubbs2005 I hope to do a mobile search with my RF Explorer and a portable antenna....sometime! 🙂
@Electrotech1980 can you share a link for the Mouser beads that you selected and successfully tested, please?
@ Yes, please share your discoveries. 🙂
gracias por tu trabajo!!
You are very welcome! 🙂
Ralph, I'm sure you know this already, but I'll state it for the benefit of your audience.
3 turns of a wire through a single ferrite would be MUCH more effective than a single wire passing through 3 ferrites. If you're shopping, buy larger diameter ferrites and wind your wire/coax through as many time as it will fit, I recommend a minimum of 3 turns for good attenuation. Type 31 and/or 43 are great for common mode or noise attenuation in the ham bands.
I really like your testing jig, and will make one. The multi-turn effect could be easily demonstrated using it.
Thanks for your very informative channel. I enjoy one or more of your vids just about every day.
There ye go! Each additional turn adds some benefit. But, it is the law of diminishing returns, as I show in the video. Yes, each additional turn adds more benefit, but less than the previously added turn. 🙂
When you say "turns" you mean winding the wire through the hole and around the outside of the body of the ferrite, as in repeating loops through the ferrite?
@@echadmiyodea Each pass through the ferrite is a "turn." The key is that the wire passes *through* the ferrite. Having it beside the ferrite, on the outside, doesn't count. 🙂
Up to a point. Inter-turn capacitance (mutual inductance in the case of shielded cable) will affect the higher frequency performance. But if you cascade one single turn and one multi-turn, perhaps you get the best of both worlds. I don't have the kit to measure that, unfortunately.
@@lumpyfishgravy Well ... sounds like the voice of a truly inquisitive experimenter to me! 🙂
Very informative and well-done video! Thank you so much for completing these tests and sharing your test results. Blessings to you and your family. ~ 73 ~ AC7WH - C.A.R.S.
Thank you so much! It was most certainly a fun video to produce. Thank you for the blessing for me and my family! 🙂
@@eie_for_you Excellent! And you're very welcome!
@ 🙂
Not The Fair-Right Company! 😁 Great video, very useful 👍 thank you 🙏
LOL! Thanks! 🙂
Excellent! Never thought of putting one on a VNA but makes sense why my cheap Amazon ones provided little real value.
Thank you! 🙂
Interesting and helpful. Thank You
Thank you ... and you're welcome! 🙂
Interesting. Thanks for the video.
Thank you ... and you are very welcome! 🙂
I don't recall you mentioning anything about the ferrite material. That makes a big difference too. A question how much difference does the split core make. They are convenient but at what price to performance?
I did, indeed, make a note to pick the right material for the job.
Good point about the split core. I would assume that the split core is a compromise for the convenience of being a clip on. I'm not sure how much that affects overall performance. 🙂
I think material is the same thing as "mix" or..?
@@OH8EFI As I understand it ... yes. 🙂
Per the comments, you get what you actually should be buying. Ferrites come in all sorts of dissipation ranges and losses. Some are virtually lossless and we used these in HF transformers. The FairRite company catalog is a very good reference source for the actual specs. We did EMI/EMC engineering with these types of things, and they are often ineffective on cables, since that depends on placement. EMI is a common problem now from spread spectrum computer power suppies, and one bead is not going to add much to attenuating the noise level. The cable lengths act as antennas at specific resonant frequencies, so unless you emplace different freq-ranges of ferrites, you won't get much attenuation over a large band. As per the video, the "longer the bead" the better the attentuation. An actual pipe would be the best.
When many people look at all of these specifications, their eyes glaze over, not sure what it all means. This is why, in the end, if we are not sure what we are looking at when we look at the catalog, their is always customer support. 🙂
When putting two chokes in series, I'm interested what happens if you put two turns on just one of them. I would expect to see a better low frequency performance.
This sounds like a nice experiment to try! 🙂
Great video, thank you.
Thank you! And you are welcome! 🙂
Just a little real-world experience with common mode suppression at high power levels: start with 3-4 ferrites at the beginning that only suppress a little, as they heat up less. Then use ones that suppress more effectively later on, since heat degrade their suppression, especially in the summer.
WOW! That is great advice! 🙂
Nice video! Is there significance to the clip leads of your fixture being 90 degrees apart leaving the connectors? Or is that just describing what you did? Reduce magnetic coupling in the fixture?
Thank you! It is to reduce the signal coupling for the isolation tests. Conductors at 90 degrees to each other have a lot harder time inducing signals in each other.🙂
@@eie_for_you Thanks for the clarification. Seems like an important detail.
@@jmcexx You are welcome! 🙂
Very helpful. I am experimenting with Flowerpot Antennas for 2m and 70cm and for digital vhf radio. I guess they will do the job but they are not great. Cherio, Peter DL2FBA
Cool! 🙂
Thing that annoys me. Why on earth they won't mark down the mix in any ferrites??
Now THAT is a good point! 🙂
@eie_for_you Before I saw this video, I had a bit of a problem of having cheapo snap ons and proper ones on the shelf. I gotta test this out. Oh, and same for toroids! Good luck trying to remember which ones were #43, #31 and #52 mixes! A bit of paint on the side wouldn't hurt on manufacturing side. Though, dumb user like me forgot to mark down what they were when I got them
@@OH8EFI A lot of toroids are, indeed, color coded ... if you can remember what the codes mean. At least you can group them by color! 😁
If I remember right, Amidon tells you what their color codes mean on their data sheets. 🙂
Very interesting your video! But whats the difference if you put in and out throuth the ferrite?
Thank you!
Putting the wire multiple times thought the ferrite is similar to adding ferrites to the wire. It sounds like a good experiment for your bench! 🙂
@@eie_for_you i don't mean that you multiple times. You have a output signal, go thourh the ferrit and goes to the input of your mesure instrument. The current goes over GND in the intstrument back. But look of the most time used. The roudn trip line goes thouth the ferrit.
@@meinsda5983 Hmmm...I'm not quite getting what you are trying to say. 😕
@@eie_for_you if you use ferrite beads in data lines then you have two lines through them. A data line and a gnd line. In your experiment you only have the data line. The ground connection goes an other way
@@meinsda5983 Aaaah yes! And the same principle applies in both directions. 🙂
Is there a way to determine the "Impedance" of an "EFHW" End Fed Half Wave - Long Wire antenna using a "Nano VNA" so that I can choose the correct ratio 1:1 / 4:1 / 9:1 / 49:1 or even perhaps a 64:1 UnUn Matching Transformer. so that I can be confident it is Matched to 50 Ohms for my Radio.
Having no personal experience with End Fed Half Wave Antennas, I can only repeat what I've been told by those who have ... 9:1. 🙂
Can you measure a piece of wire 1m long (EFHW for a 2M band)?
@@galileo_rs First of all, I'm not sure if you are trying to measure its end-to-end response or its its swr or its impedance. Could you please be more clear in what you are trying to accomplish?
Second, I do not do acronyms. I can only guess at a host of possible meanings which does not help in clear communication. 🙂
@@eie_for_you It wasn't a question, it was a response to the previous question.
@ Aaaaaaaahhhh! I missed that! When I click on the comment, it doesn't bring up what came before and it gives no indication to me that I have some context to consider. Sorry for the misunderstanding!
The VNA needs both the signal and the return. A simple wire hanging out there without some sort of return path won't work.
Your end fed half wave antenna also needs a "counterpoise" as I understand it. This functions as the "return path" for the feedline.
So, if you have your antenna and its counterpoise connected to the nanoVNA, then it will, indeed, tell you what it sees.
I hope this helps.
Again, sorry for the misunderstanding. 🙂
Cool another project I can do with the girls!
Our lives could be better at 14mhz around this house. 😂
Thanks!
I'm glad that you found this video helpful ... and fun! It was most certainly a fun one to produce. 🙂
Excellent video. Compairing cheap amazon clip on ferrite devices to a larger piece of ferrite from fair-rite isn't really a fair comparison. You did a great job showing that the fair-rite device is superior, but amazon ferrites are a fraction of the cost....and if you don't need a tremendous amount of attenuation, then a few turns around the amazon clip on ferrites are probably good enough and will cost less.
Thank you! I don't know if you noticed that I compared a similar size cheap Amazon tubular ferrite to a very generic box style to a genuine Fair-Rite box style.
You are right, though, if you do not need a lot of attenuation, then the cheapies will work just fine. It is all about the application. Figure out what you need and select the ferrite that will do it for you. 🙂
@eie_for_you thank you again for the excellent video!
@@daveN2MXX You are *very* welcome! 🙂
Somehow I missed info about the cost... like if 3x beads cost more or less than 1x the other thing?
Well ... the cost is very, very supplier specific. So, quoting costs wouldn't be too helpful here.
Furthermore, there are a lot more factors involved than just cost ... like space considerations and dissipation factors and more. This is why you have to do your homework. 🙂
Very interesting.
Thanks! 🙂
Excellent video!
Black ceramic can be made with any kind of junk, and the people who sell them are only after your money, with the least amount of outlay on their part. And you have no way of telling from any of their ads if they are worth anything until you buy them and try them...
Thank you! And you are right ... that is why it is so important to go to a known good supplier like Fair-Rite. 🙂
But, but … mix 31 clip-ons are expensive. :-). Great video, I’ve wondered about how to easily test them.
Yeah ... they aren't always a cheap as we would like, but if we want to get the job done, we have to pay the price, eh?
I'm glad that you found the video helpful. 🙂
Good idea. It did look like the wire wasn't insulated and I'd probably like to run an insulated wire just to make this more realistic. I have purchased my ferrites from a source I think is having a decent assortment. I did pick them based on the quality impression they gave and not on what they stated on ebay or some other grey web trading site like the jungle site. (Robot Cantina name for a well known site)
Yep, the wire isn't insulated as I stated in the video. I'm glad you found a good source of ferrites. 🙂
Good and enlightening tutorial. Grateful.
Any ferrite that works well in HF?
Which of them should we buy?
Thank you so much. EA7HJ
Thank you! Here is a quote from one of the other comments that might help ...
"The three handiest mixes for use in amateur radio are type 31, 43 and 61. Just be sure to pick the correct mix for the frequency of concern."
When in doubt, contact the manufacturer. They are often very helpful in selecting a ferrite for your application from among their products. 🙂
Many thanks. 73
@@ea77hj You are very welcome! 🙂
hi thanks for the info. i have a question for you is it possible to use rig ekspert stick 500 to measure db deping through ferrite cores ?????
You need a 2 port measuring device to do this measurement. The Stick 500 is a single port device; it measures things like SWR, return loss, impedance, and the like. It cannot measure things like filter frequency response. This ferrite business is, in essence, a frequency response-type test. 🙂
ขอบคุณมากครับกีบสาระดีๆ
You are very welcome! 🙂
More than 3 ferrites in a row result in 3 turns through one and the same ferrite.
Kinda, sorta true ... when we pass the wire through a single ferrite multiple times it is very much like putting the clip on ferrite on an existing inductor. The turns of the wire like that create a coil (read inductor). The ferrite, then, makes the inductance of this inductor even larger. So, we get *more* effect with three turns through the same ferrite than we would with three of the same ferrite in a row on a single wire/cable. 🙂
Thank you for your videos kk4ekk
You are very welcome! 🙂
🙏🙏🙏🙏from 🇳🇱NL
Thanks! 🙂
If you need clip-on ferrites to solve a problem, then the circuit design is bad.
True that! But we often have no choice but to accept the shortcomings of other people's designs. Thus, we are stuck with clip on ferrites. 🙂
lol wenn wieder einmal die Übersetzung des Titels und der Beschreibung vollkommen in die Hose geht...
Gotta love those AI translations! LOL 🙂
Please keep your silly bible bashing to yourself.
🙂
Great video.
Thank you!