I really love that sideways skew function, in the tension wheel... Without it, you need to "skew" the motor "straight", to get the perfect tracking... And that, is pretty hard, when mounted on the "Frame Wall", as here... Ofcause, mounted like that, the motor can only sit STRAIGHT... But that stops you from moving the motor along its axle, to get the driving pulley, fully in alignment... On THIS mashine, it fits right... The contact wheels are properly "right in front of the pulleywheel, and the tensioner wheel is well centered too... But if you change to another drive pulley, which have the "sole" further from the motor, then the three other wheels have to be adjusted sideways, too... UNLESS you have that "sideskew" on the tensioner wheel... Then, that "side skew" of the tensioner wheel, should solve the problem... Becoming quite the expert, from al the good youtubers on the subject, I realised, that "side skew" is a rare detail... But brilliant... It is a good point, that the belt may walk sideways off, under heavy load, if a "wrongly skewed motor", or contact wheels, force you to have the tensioner wheel tilted upwards or downways... Then, when properly "skewed right", you use the "up and down tilt", to adjust for "crooked belts", which have been under tension so one side has stretched most... It is wise to take the tension off the belt, while "resting, for the night"... That should be done, each time, especially when having "crowned" wheels, to help the tracking... Then the middle, is under hardest tension... One UT shows, you do not need the crowned wheels "at all"... IF ONLY the belt is STRAIGHT... And if not, a crowned pulley wheel really helps... For that reason, I have made my DIY pulley, only one inch wide, and slightly crowned, and that works perfect... Sending the two inch wide belts fine, on track... BUT PLEASE ... The pulley wheel, should NOT "just slide on"... At least, the proffesionals say, you should NEED to heat up the pulley, so, when pushed on, it shrinks and sit really tight... In general, it must be heated, so you need gloves to hold it... And then, it "slides right on"... Right... It is clear, that the "finish, with the sandpaper", took just that material, needed to make the tight fit... With the looser fit, vibrations comes, and that gives noise, and added wear... I see a lot of really good intensions in this vid... But I have to warn about removing material from the shaft... This mashine is obviously a strong and very stable construction... With a TIGHT pulley wheel, it could last several lifetimes, of good service... Only changing bearings, underway... Personally, I would suggest making the hinge for tilting the whole mashine, "simpler and nicer", more like the hinge for the tracking wheel... That would greatly improve the apearence... ... Use it, or lose it... :) NOTHING on a grinder, should look as "made for another purpose", in my own demanding opinion... But that "Sideways Skew", is simply GREAT... And it even look great... Thumbs up...
Thanks. A shrink fit pulley is great idea until it needs to be replaced. I have been using a keyed pulley system on machine equipment for many years and have yet to have one come loose. We are not suggesting removing material from the shaft only a light touch with fine emery or scotchbrite. The design is like walking a tight rope between appearance and cost to manufacture. Thank you for all your thoughts, we do appreciate comments from our owners. We consider them in future modification to the machine. Don Reeder
What should I do if I didn't realize there was a bur on the drive shaft? The wheel was hammered on 2/3 of the way and will not go farther..or be pulled off. I should mention this was not on one of your grinders but i've found very little on the subject
In the next month or so we are planning to make a video with me teaching an inexperienced knife maker to use our equipment and attachments to complete a knife.
Hello Greg please tell us the prices of your Base Grinders with motorization in 220 v sent in france CD MR CIUTA PS A CATALOG by Email that I can choose
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the tracking system is really outstanding. never seen that kind of flexibility before. cudos!
Got a Reeder grinder and couldn't be happier. These are excellent people to deal with. I seldom recomend expensive things but I will hear.
Thank you Donald
I really love that sideways skew function, in the tension wheel...
Without it, you need to "skew" the motor "straight", to get the perfect tracking...
And that, is pretty hard, when mounted on the "Frame Wall", as here...
Ofcause, mounted like that, the motor can only sit STRAIGHT...
But that stops you from moving the motor along its axle, to get the driving pulley, fully in alignment...
On THIS mashine, it fits right... The contact wheels are properly "right in front of the pulleywheel, and the tensioner wheel is well centered too...
But if you change to another drive pulley, which have the "sole" further from the motor, then the three other wheels have to be adjusted sideways, too... UNLESS you have that "sideskew" on the tensioner wheel...
Then, that "side skew" of the tensioner wheel, should solve the problem...
Becoming quite the expert, from al the good youtubers on the subject, I realised, that "side skew" is a rare detail...
But brilliant...
It is a good point, that the belt may walk sideways off, under heavy load, if a "wrongly skewed motor", or contact wheels, force you to have the tensioner wheel tilted upwards or downways...
Then, when properly "skewed right", you use the "up and down tilt", to adjust for "crooked belts", which have been under tension so one side has stretched most... It is wise to take the tension off the belt, while "resting, for the night"...
That should be done, each time, especially when having "crowned" wheels, to help the tracking... Then the middle, is under hardest tension...
One UT shows, you do not need the crowned wheels "at all"... IF ONLY the belt is STRAIGHT...
And if not, a crowned pulley wheel really helps... For that reason, I have made my DIY pulley, only one inch wide, and slightly crowned, and that works perfect... Sending the two inch wide belts fine, on track...
BUT PLEASE ... The pulley wheel, should NOT "just slide on"...
At least, the proffesionals say, you should NEED to heat up the pulley, so, when pushed on, it shrinks and sit really tight...
In general, it must be heated, so you need gloves to hold it... And then, it "slides right on"... Right...
It is clear, that the "finish, with the sandpaper", took just that material, needed to make the tight fit...
With the looser fit, vibrations comes, and that gives noise, and added wear...
I see a lot of really good intensions in this vid... But I have to warn about removing material from the shaft...
This mashine is obviously a strong and very stable construction...
With a TIGHT pulley wheel, it could last several lifetimes, of good service... Only changing bearings, underway...
Personally, I would suggest making the hinge for tilting the whole mashine, "simpler and nicer", more like the hinge for the tracking wheel... That would greatly improve the apearence... ... Use it, or lose it... :)
NOTHING on a grinder, should look as "made for another purpose", in my own demanding opinion...
But that "Sideways Skew", is simply GREAT... And it even look great... Thumbs up...
Thanks. A shrink fit pulley is great idea until it needs to be replaced. I have been using a keyed pulley system on machine equipment for many years and have yet to have one come loose. We are not suggesting removing material from the shaft only a light touch with fine emery or scotchbrite. The design is like walking a tight rope between appearance and cost to manufacture. Thank you for all your thoughts, we do appreciate comments from our owners. We consider them in future modification to the machine.
Don Reeder
Спасибо за информацию! У вас очень хорошая модель гриндера! 👍👍👍👍👍
Great tips, thanks
great machine great video
Beautiful machine!
Thank you
What should I do if I didn't realize there was a bur on the drive shaft? The wheel was hammered on 2/3 of the way and will not go farther..or be pulled off. I should mention this was not on one of your grinders but i've found very little on the subject
Use a pulley puller
Ótimo trabalho.
Hi sir can you tell me please what's your speed controller make and model please thanks
Can I order 1 set belt grinder 2x72
wow, expensive machine....verry nice
Thank you for watching
Could you do a video of you using the machine? A video where you profile a knife and put bevels on it. Thanks
In the next month or so we are planning to make a video with me teaching an inexperienced knife maker to use our equipment and attachments to complete a knife.
Right on, can't wait. I'll be getting one soon.
We are running a little behind on this one, but is coming.
Thanks for the helpful video. When will the new web site be up?
We are working on it. Hopefully it will be completed in the next 2 or 3 weeks.
Site has been up for 3 years. It is reederproducts.com
HI! is the 2Hp motor enough or should i go with the 3HP ?
Just depends on how much material you need to remove quickly. I have a 2hp in my home shop. I consider it more than adequate.
Hello Greg please tell us the prices of your Base Grinders with motorization in 220 v sent in france CD MR CIUTA
PS A CATALOG by Email that I can choose
Check reederproducts.com
teach your camera man to keep the camera still...