Enjoyed your video a lot 👍 Top tip when pouring from a 5 liter WD 40 container, spin the container a further 90 degrees so the wider side of the container is facing down to the floor you will spill less.😂😂
I am please you enjoyed it. I dont know why I didnt think of that. I was probably busy trying to remember some obscure hack where they poured it 180 degrees out and was worried I would make even more mess.
Fantastic video...there is always people who know some way to do something different.... enjoy its all about learning yourself.. There are many ways to do the same thing differently... It is not 1 size fits all.. your lathe looks fantastic wow! Good Choice of lathe :-)
Hi James, Thanks for the wise words. I find it amazing at how many ways something can be achieved sometimes and yet I find I know none of them (yet). Thank you. I took a long time deciding to pick that particular lathe but am very happy with it.
hi colinbowen6500, I purchased the warco quick change toolpost as I am a fan of the design. I have found additional holders on places such as arceurotrade and rdgtools have been very useful.
Nice video, I would like to ask for a drawing of the location of the mounting holes from the edge of the drip tray in both axes for the WM 250V lathe.Thanks you.
Hi Michal, I have had almost an identical question on this video th-cam.com/video/xhBbqFG6vDI/w-d-xo.html if you want to check the comments there is a back and forth with Anthony Newton about the size / location of the mounting holes and tray size. A snippet of the measurements only is WM250 the table is 1100mm * 420mm and the whole table has a inner boarder of 20mm. The mounting points for the lathe are about 210mm from the front most edge and the holes are about 110mm, 230mm and 1005mm from the right hand edge (Gearbox end). The drain hole is 330 back and 700mm from the gearbox end. These are best measurements as its hard to get great readings around the table now its built. I would reccomend building a table based around the catch pan once it arrives. Having built the table before anything arrived meant I had to make a few creative solutions. These measurements are best estimates as its not easy to get accurate measurements now everything is assembled. I personally recommend contacting Warco to see if they can provide details of the bolt layout. I hope that helps. Good luck and let me know how your projects works out.
@@CavemanAston Hi, thank you for the quick answer, I have the whole table ready, I just missed the middle strut. I made the table 1200x600 mm. I contacted Warco, but no answer. In 14 days I will have my WARCO WM 250 V. Good luck to your projects. Merry Christmas .
3 months too late, but I think you meant grease for the change gears and not gear box. There really two different items on a lathe. Not only do I think so, but a fairly famous model engineer by the name of George H. Thomas mentioned about the change gears on the Myford super 7 lathe only needing a few drops of oil on each gear each time you use it. Compared to almost anything else that's gear driven, smaller lathe change gears are actually quite lightly loaded under use. And grease has one bad quality on those open exposed gears. It both retains gear wear particles and due to that, recycling them back through the gear teeth during every revolution so that further accelerates even more wear, but also any cutting chips that sooner or later will get in there. Using grease is actually worse for the machines accuracy and life span. Oil on the other hand helps to slowly wash off and remove those metal wear particles. That's the exact reason why way oil is used on the slides and feed screws and not grease. If the factory recommends that grease on those gears then it would be the one time I'd use logic and very much disagree with there lubrication recommendations. Because of the selling price on these hobby level lathes, there's zero money left for proper cleaning before assembly and application of that shipping preservative. Exterior cleaning while important, is only about 10% of the job. Other than removing the head stock and it's spindle which I wouldn't recommend for anyone without lot's of experience, all these machines will have residual grinding dust and sometimes the odd cutting chip throughout the parts assembly on every major component. If it were me? I'd do a complete disassembly and a thorough cleaning in solvent of every part. That also removes any shipping preservatives that were missed the first time. It's then much easier to readjust items like feed nuts and gibs to much tighter than the factory did due to that layer of shipping preservative, yet still have a much easier, more accurate and smoother operating machine. Yes doing so is a fair amount of work, 1-2 days worth probably. But I did the same on both my 11"x27" lathe and Bridgeport type milling machine. And either of those has far more parts with much larger surfaces to clean. While I didn't find large amounts of that grinding dust as well as a lot less casting sand, there was still more than enough I was happy I did so. You might be surprised at the difference it makes. And a machine adjusted as close as possible while still being easy and smooth to operate will almost always produce much better surface finishes.
Hi Turning Point, You are not too late at all. Well, as you may have guessed I am not a machnist by trade so I simply took advice from the limited instruction book that came with the lathe and the dealer when I phoned them and that was their recomendation. But you make a series of very good points. Luckily enough I am now a little more confident in taking chunks of the machine apart and intend to do a bigger and better clean down before I install some way covers. So this information has come at just the right time. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything so well. Wish me luck in getting everything back togther correctly.
@@CavemanAston I'm not a machinist either, I've spent almost 40 years now trying to learn the little I'd like to think I do know though. It's not an easy or quick task to even attempt it, and no one knows it all. I think I'm lucky and have a few so far unmet email friends who are or once were machinist's and tool & die makers. I am firmly convinced that there is one reference book that anyone with an interest in machine tools should have it's this one. www.teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual/ I still refer to it today. It's literally worth 10 times it's price. Few to maybe no real machinist's wouldn't pick up a few bit's of information from it never mind entry level people. Good reference books are tools as well, and very much should be considered just as important and sometimes even more so than anything else in the shop.
@Turning Point I have ordered that book so I look forward to learning all sorts of stuff. Luckily I did a little machining in college and was an apprentice with quite a few people doing mechanical apprenticeships and one has given me quite a lot of pointers and advice already which I am very greatful for.
Quick question please, I'm unclear from the warco web site as to whether the machine has power cross feed ? Your comments please. Have just found your channel and subscribed
Hi SteveD I purchased my lathe from Warco who may have extra / diffferent info on their website but my one only has the standard pwoer feed to drive the length of the bed and for threading but not power crossfeed. Maybe an upgrade project one day. Thank you very much. I hope you enjoy the channel.
Good luck. I don't speak German so can't help. I have had some mixed opinions saying I should use oil instead of grease. But the manufacturer said I should use grease.
@@CavemanAston I didnt expect an answer from you because of "fancy grease" ;-) Well, grease (stiff) or oil (fluid) depends on the purpose for what it is used. But if the manufacturer states to use grease I use grease and if the manufacturer states to use oil I use oil. Grease stays in place, oil drips of.
Yes. I am very pleased. Although I might have sprung for the gear head version (easier to change threading speeds) rather than changing gears manually by taking the cover off.
Enjoyed your video a lot 👍 Top tip when pouring from a 5 liter WD 40 container, spin the container a further 90 degrees so the wider side of the container is facing down to the floor you will spill less.😂😂
I am please you enjoyed it. I dont know why I didnt think of that. I was probably busy trying to remember some obscure hack where they poured it 180 degrees out and was worried I would make even more mess.
Hi, I’m enjoying the videos. Keep up the good work.
Hi Adam, I am glad your enjoying them. Thanks for taking the time to say so.
Fantastic video...there is always people who know some way to do something different.... enjoy its all about learning yourself.. There are many ways to do the same thing differently... It is not 1 size fits all.. your lathe looks fantastic wow! Good Choice of lathe :-)
Hi James,
Thanks for the wise words. I find it amazing at how many ways something can be achieved sometimes and yet I find I know none of them (yet).
Thank you. I took a long time deciding to pick that particular lathe but am very happy with it.
Hi
I’ve bought a Warco WM240 can you recommend a reasonably priced quick change tool post please 👍🏻
hi colinbowen6500,
I purchased the warco quick change toolpost as I am a fan of the design. I have found additional holders on places such as arceurotrade and rdgtools have been very useful.
Nice video, keep going :)
Thanks Matt. At the moment it's just finding the time to do it and the time to record and edit it. But it's good fun
Hi will you be putting a QCTP Wedge type 250-111 on your lathe and how will you get round the post on the top slide?
Hi Bernard, I have put a Dickson style qctp on and it works well.
I don't know what post you are referring to on the top slide, can you elaborate?
Nice video, I would like to ask for a drawing of the location of the mounting holes from the edge of the drip tray in both axes for the WM 250V lathe.Thanks you.
Hi Michal, I have had almost an identical question on this video th-cam.com/video/xhBbqFG6vDI/w-d-xo.html if you want to check the comments there is a back and forth with Anthony Newton about the size / location of the mounting holes and tray size.
A snippet of the measurements only is
WM250 the table is 1100mm * 420mm and the whole table has a inner boarder of 20mm. The mounting points for the lathe are about 210mm from the front most edge and the holes are about 110mm, 230mm and 1005mm from the right hand edge (Gearbox end). The drain hole is 330 back and 700mm from the gearbox end.
These are best measurements as its hard to get great readings around the table now its built.
I would reccomend building a table based around the catch pan once it arrives. Having built the table before anything arrived meant I had to make a few creative solutions.
These measurements are best estimates as its not easy to get accurate measurements now everything is assembled.
I personally recommend contacting Warco to see if they can provide details of the bolt layout.
I hope that helps.
Good luck and let me know how your projects works out.
@@CavemanAston Hi, thank you for the quick answer, I have the whole table ready, I just missed the middle strut. I made the table 1200x600 mm. I contacted Warco, but no answer. In 14 days I will have my WARCO WM 250 V. Good luck to your projects. Merry Christmas .
3 months too late, but I think you meant grease for the change gears and not gear box. There really two different items on a lathe. Not only do I think so, but a fairly famous model engineer by the name of George H. Thomas mentioned about the change gears on the Myford super 7 lathe only needing a few drops of oil on each gear each time you use it. Compared to almost anything else that's gear driven, smaller lathe change gears are actually quite lightly loaded under use. And grease has one bad quality on those open exposed gears. It both retains gear wear particles and due to that, recycling them back through the gear teeth during every revolution so that further accelerates even more wear, but also any cutting chips that sooner or later will get in there. Using grease is actually worse for the machines accuracy and life span. Oil on the other hand helps to slowly wash off and remove those metal wear particles. That's the exact reason why way oil is used on the slides and feed screws and not grease. If the factory recommends that grease on those gears then it would be the one time I'd use logic and very much disagree with there lubrication recommendations.
Because of the selling price on these hobby level lathes, there's zero money left for proper cleaning before assembly and application of that shipping preservative. Exterior cleaning while important, is only about 10% of the job. Other than removing the head stock and it's spindle which I wouldn't recommend for anyone without lot's of experience, all these machines will have residual grinding dust and sometimes the odd cutting chip throughout the parts assembly on every major component. If it were me? I'd do a complete disassembly and a thorough cleaning in solvent of every part. That also removes any shipping preservatives that were missed the first time. It's then much easier to readjust items like feed nuts and gibs to much tighter than the factory did due to that layer of shipping preservative, yet still have a much easier, more accurate and smoother operating machine. Yes doing so is a fair amount of work, 1-2 days worth probably. But I did the same on both my 11"x27" lathe and Bridgeport type milling machine. And either of those has far more parts with much larger surfaces to clean. While I didn't find large amounts of that grinding dust as well as a lot less casting sand, there was still more than enough I was happy I did so. You might be surprised at the difference it makes. And a machine adjusted as close as possible while still being easy and smooth to operate will almost always produce much better surface finishes.
Hi Turning Point,
You are not too late at all. Well, as you may have guessed I am not a machnist by trade so I simply took advice from the limited instruction book that came with the lathe and the dealer when I phoned them and that was their recomendation.
But you make a series of very good points. Luckily enough I am now a little more confident in taking chunks of the machine apart and intend to do a bigger and better clean down before I install some way covers. So this information has come at just the right time.
Thank you for taking the time to explain everything so well. Wish me luck in getting everything back togther correctly.
@@CavemanAston I'm not a machinist either, I've spent almost 40 years now trying to learn the little I'd like to think I do know though. It's not an easy or quick task to even attempt it, and no one knows it all. I think I'm lucky and have a few so far unmet email friends who are or once were machinist's and tool & die makers.
I am firmly convinced that there is one reference book that anyone with an interest in machine tools should have it's this one. www.teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual/ I still refer to it today. It's literally worth 10 times it's price. Few to maybe no real machinist's wouldn't pick up a few bit's of information from it never mind entry level people. Good reference books are tools as well, and very much should be considered just as important and sometimes even more so than anything else in the shop.
@Turning Point I have ordered that book so I look forward to learning all sorts of stuff.
Luckily I did a little machining in college and was an apprentice with quite a few people doing mechanical apprenticeships and one has given me quite a lot of pointers and advice already which I am very greatful for.
Quick question please, I'm unclear from the warco web site as to whether the machine has power cross feed ? Your comments please.
Have just found your channel and subscribed
Hi SteveD I purchased my lathe from Warco who may have extra / diffferent info on their website but my one only has the standard pwoer feed to drive the length of the bed and for threading but not power crossfeed. Maybe an upgrade project one day. Thank you very much. I hope you enjoy the channel.
There is a easier way of getting tools to centre height
How is that?
I try to find out what "fancy grease" can mean in german :-)
Good luck. I don't speak German so can't help.
I have had some mixed opinions saying I should use oil instead of grease. But the manufacturer said I should use grease.
@@CavemanAston I didnt expect an answer from you because of "fancy grease" ;-)
Well, grease (stiff) or oil (fluid) depends on the purpose for what it is used.
But if the manufacturer states to use grease I use grease
and if the manufacturer states to use oil I use oil.
Grease stays in place, oil drips of.
Nice lathe mate. Are you pleased with it after all this time?
Yes. I am very pleased. Although I might have sprung for the gear head version (easier to change threading speeds) rather than changing gears manually by taking the cover off.