ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2023
- Welcome back all,
After finding damage within my pinto engine block in the last video, I knew the only way I could happily use this head was by fully stripping and rebuilding. I start by stripping all of the old parts of the cylinder head, including the cam, followers, springs, valves etc. I cleaned the head in my works parts washer and then got it skimmed by Chris at clump fab! I also accumulate parts for the rebuild from Burton Power which weren't cheap but will be worth it.
I then go onto fully rebuild the head and show you guys how to fit everything and the small differences in some of the new parts I fit. The final outcome is a freshly build head with a Kent cams fast food cam installed. It would be fait to say that I'm very exited to get this engine fully together and running on a dyno!
Contact me: mitch.boulton@outlook.com
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Bloody hell, Mitch. I love watching these. You're doing exactly the same things I was doing in the 80's. I was mates with three brothers. I had a mk3 Cortina, one of the other brothers had a Capri, the other had a mk2 1600E. The last brother was a bit of a weirdo and had a 1275 GT mini. :).
We fitted Kent cams. Kenlow fans, twin Webbers and K&N filters. probably gave us at least 5mph total, but we loved it. Every weekend we work on one car or the other.
Great stories, I'm in the same boat as the cam only adds 16bhp 😆 But it all counts in an old car like my escort!
Great content this Mitch - you covered everything and did it all proper old school on a bit of cardboard on the floor of your Dad's garage! Just how it would've been done 30 years ago!
Thank you mate, I'm glad you enjoy the home built progress 😎
Well done mate nice to see you back on track with the escort build love the videos look forward to the next one 👍
Thank you pal, yes back on track and already editing 2 more videos 😁
Great video Mitch, thoroughly enjoyed it and you lapping the valves in bought back many memories of me doing that in my younger years 😁👍
Glad you liked the video! I quite enjoy the process of lapping in valves 😁
What a great video, thoroughly enjoyed it from start to finish. I have no doubt the Escort will be fantastic when finished
Thank you for such a positive comment, I can't wait for the first start up 😁
I love your confidence working with this engine you can tell your on the tools fantastic mitch I'm enjoying the journey with this built.
Glad your enjoying the escort progress! I’m still learning everyday but I try and do everything properly 😎
Well done Mitch another great video of the escort cant wait for more :)
Thank you mate, plenty more to come very soon! 👍🏻
Great purchase for the engine dude. Great work mitch ✌️👍
Thank you Ian, should be built up soon! 👌🏻
Great video! Top tip when the engine is built, before the dizzy and rocker cover are fitted, put the oil in the sump and use a long hex drive socket through the dizzy hole into the oil pump hex shaft on an electric drill and spin it up to prime the oil circuit. You will then see the oil coming out of all the spray bar holes. Good idea to do that before initial start up. Was going for an FR32 myself but fitted a high torque FR30 instead. All great cams 👍
Brilliant tip mate, all noted and I will 100% prime the engine in this way before start up! 👍🏻
Finally Mitch !! Was getting bored of auctions ! Lol Keep up the good work matey
Haha sorry pal, hard to keep everyone happy! You'll be pleased to hear that I'm currently editing 2 more escort videos 😎
Good video I do like a bit of engine work soon as you took the head off I thought to myself you got to put a cam in it and you did it's going to be a nice engine.
Yes, I couldn't resist but fit a high lift cam 😆
Hi Mitch. When you're ready to fire it up, use zinc rich break in oil, or a zinc additive to the oil. If you don't, it'll eat the cam lobes! Been there 🤦♂️ Also, set the idle to 2000 to 2500rpm for 20 to 30 minutes. This'll bed in the cam nicely ready for a damn good thrashing 🤣 Cheers. Leigh.
Hi Leigh, thank you for the suggestion. All noted and will be using some zinc rich oil for the first start up 👍🏻
Hi Mitch, the main problem with the pinto head was the camshaft spray rail, use to glogg up and seize camshaft the break. 👍
Sound like a bag of nails
hello mate, I've been told this many times! I fitted a new one in the video and also said I will replace it on every service to make sure it doesn't clog up 😁
Great work Mitch keep it up mate 😊good spannering
Thank you Dave 👍🏻
Another great video Mitch. You are the new Ed China 👍😎
Haha thank you mate 😎
Good video Mitch. Keep up the good work mate
Thank you! 👍🏻
Really good how too.. can't wait for this thing to live, 2.1, carbs, old skool all the way.
Cheers mate, me too cannot wait! 😁
Nice work Mitch
Cheers! 😎
Great stuff keep up the great content love these pinto vids
Plenty more pinto progress to come very soon mate 👍🏻
Great video Mitch. I would double check those tappet settings, when #4 is rocking, # 1 is set, when 3 number 2 when 1 number 4 and when 2 number 3 is set. I noticed that you turned each one until the cam lobe faced upwards. It might not be 100% correct that way pal. Once which ever one rocks and the adjacent one is set, the cam must not be turned everytime to set a tappet. The cam must remain in the position when setting that specific cylinder's tappets. Only turned to the next cylinder until that is rocking to set that adjacent tappets, and so on. Top man.👍
Thank you for the advice mate, all taken on board and will re-check the valve clearances 😎
What a score, you really lucked in there Mitch, it looks great 😊 that cam shaft kit is the dog’s dangly bits, nothing like fitting a fast road cam in a new build engine 😮. I must admit to almost jizzing when you opened the camshaft box, hells yeah 😊
Ps…..can you enlarge the oil passages on the spray bar?
Haha, can always reply on your comments to make me chuckle! I'm not sure if I could enlarge the oil passages on the spray bar, I'd be worried about going all the way through the bar! 😆
Excellent love a good engine rebuild vid
Thank you for watching pal 👍🏻
Great video again.
Thank you 😎
to check the old v new springs, put one on the top of another, turn 90 degrees, put in vice, sufficient to hold them, then measure their length. then gently tighten up, you should be able to watch/ measure the old, weak spring compressing the quickest. the way to tell if a valve is lapped in correctly, is to look for a thin matt grey line on the valve seat in the head, + a matching line around the valve. all 4 inlets should be the same width of grey as its sisters, + all 4 exhausts the same as their sisters. shiny, or dotted finishes show further lapping reqd. "twist, then lift", after 10 twists of your grinding stick, lift up 10 mm, [it brings the paste back onto the seat] then another 10 twists, usually takes about 10 goes to fully lap a valve. valve oil seals usually need a "tap" from a hammer + suitable socket to secure them in place, if they come loose, they ride up + stop working. the camshaft oil seal should be flush with the head, too far in + it can block an oil gallery, or spit out
---IMPORTANT --- before you fit the rocker cover, fill up sump, drop in dizzy [any position], oilfilter + pressure switch in, then spin the aux. pulley with a drill [it was a speedbrace for old me], until you can see a steady stream of oil coming out of each hole in the spraybar. this proves the oilpump is working,+ your cam will last more than 10 minutes [not even joking !!!]
PS gan canny with tightening cork gaskets, really no more than screwdriver tight, or they will split... PPS dont use sealant on the camcover gasket, you will need to take it off to recheck headbolts + cam clearances after a few hours running...
Sounds like you've been around the block a few times. I'm building a pinto on a budget. Great advice for me. Cheers from Oz
@@benjohnson7170 i started work in 1980, at a 400 unit hire company, 75%+ of fleet was ford, every transit was a pinto, cortinas, granadas, capris, so i have done a few. started scraping the gaskets off them at 16, rebuilding full engines by 18. serviced every 6000miles, tappets 12k, cambelt 36k. rebore/regrind 60 - 80k [remember, hire cars...]
these engines are well tough, but they don't like running hot or with tight tappets, + the best carb is a 28/36 weber enjoy!
Well done mate. Nice informativ video
Thank you Mike! 😎
Top job mate. 🤌🤌
Cheers mate! 👍🏻
Been looking foward to this video ,,I’m ant 3weeks behinds after being away on holiday just trying to catch up hope your well buddy,, 2:20
Hope you enjoyed the video Dru and had a good holiday too! 👍🏻
@@Mk2Mitch cheers buddy was amazeing need to get yourself to letakenny for rally week sometime its unreal crack
Nice work, although might have been worth cleaning up backs and faces of the valves in the drill and you could of 'port' matched the manifolds to the head with a dremel type tool to help air flow prior to the skimming or building up of the head.
Sure as a 2.1 it will run pretty well anyway 👍
Keep it up,be good to see the more door running soon enough.
Thank you for the suggestion. I did debate porting/polishing but found very mixed reviews online and decided I will go down that route with another head one day 👍🏻 Thank you for the positive comment!
@Mk2Mitch no probs mitch,I did this when I rebuilt my turbo cvh some years ago and the engine tuning book you can get was well worth purchasing, there's one available for the pinto too.
👍
If your gonna get into pinto engines it be worth getting a book written by vizzard burton should have a copy it’s a must have
Nice one Mitch, I enjoy all your videos, keep them coming.
Glad you enjoy the videos, plenty more escort ones coming soon 😁
hey mate. looking awesome. did you fit hardened valve seats ?
Hi, no I didn't fit hardened valve seats but I'm also unsure wether this head already had them installed. How would I tell the difference?
hi another great vid r you going to fit a high presure oil pump,,,
Thank you, I'm not going to fit a high pressure pump. Are they available from stock?
good lad
Lovely old job
Thank you!
Iv never seen anyone rebuild a head on there garage floor, the key to rebuilding an engine is cleanliness, all the dust and grit that gets blown round and kicked up at the entrance of a garage will inevitably be all over that head,
Sometimes you have to deal with what you’ve got! I can assure you my garage floor is remarkably clean and the cam cover was placed back on top once I rebuilt 👍🏻 No dust or grit is inside of my cylinder head and it’s nicely oiled up, awaiting to be married onto the block 😁
Are the cam bearing shells worn they look bronze.Great video
No visible signs of wear so I’ve not changed them 👍🏻
You need to work from a bench mate & save bending down all day.
In the ideal world I would be on a bench but our garage isn't big enough for one! We work with what we've got, for now 😆
👍👍😊
Hi Mitch does the spray bar have an O ring seal that fits between the spray bar and cylinder head
No.
Yes mine did 👍🏻
I know some people say you don’t need them but I always think manufacturer’s are not going to spend billions of pounds developing parts they are their for a reason otherwise the manufacturer’s would be saving money by not fitting them P.S. I worked in Fords Halewood home of the Escort
Sorry if you said it and I didn't hear, but did you put hardened valve seats in your pinto's head or are they stock just lapped?
They’re just stock and lapped 👍🏻
How have they been holding up? I am bringing my head to the shop this week for bronze valve guides, I might ask for hardened seats as well@@Mk2Mitch
👍😎🍺
Adjusting valves with head flat on floor not such a good move , you could bend valves as they open there being pressed against the floor.
I agree but none of the valves were damaged & the head was on cardboard 👍🏻
why do you all scratach about on the floor
I’m doing the best with what I’ve got, I haven’t got access to a bench so a couple of layers of cardboard worked a treat 👍🏻