How To Make A Kitchen Hatch, A Hole In A Wall. (#7)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This is how I knocked a hole in a kitchen wall to open it out onto the lounge/ dining room. There were a few little issues along the way to resolve, such as some electrics to move and the small matter of rehanging some cupboards that were fiddly.
It was a bit of a "Hole Lot Of Trouble!" at times but the end result was very pleasing.
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Chapters
1 - What the job's about.
2 - Switching off the power, removing the cupboards, cutting the hole in the wall.
3 - Re-routing the mains cables and starting the woodworking.
4 - Making the two top trim pieces for the opening.
5 - Fixing the cill and side cheeks.
6 - Finishing the opening and fixing the trim pieces.
7 - Filling, sanding, and painting.
8 - Rehanging the cupboards and the finished job.
Excellent video and a great job!
Proposing to do exactly this with my own dining room/kitchen wall.
I’ve just moved to this home, and my kitchen has a small window that doesn’t bring a lot of natural light. Borrowed light seems to be the way forward.
Thank you, and good luck with yours.
Thank you for your video. And hello from Minnesota! I’m wanting to make a small wide rectangular opening in a guest bathroom that does not have any windows. I want to put it up high so it only brings in light but no one can see in. It will open to the living room vaulted ceiling so I’ll need glass for soundproofing/privacy. This helped so much!
I'm pleased you enjoyed it Teresa. It's great knowing where my viewers are from too. Good luck with your project and don't forget to subscribe, please. I want to reach 4000 subscribers.
You're a wizard
Thank you. Very kind of you.
Would it perhaps be a good idea to give a warning re load-bearing walls?
Fantastic result! I love your care and attention to detail.
Thank you Nick, I really appreciate your kind words.
Excellent
Thank you and I'm pleased that you liked it.
Job well done 👍🏻
Thank you. I appreciate that.
That was great John and I was wondering if you’d use the Wago connectors. Such a time and fiddle saver
Thank you so much I appreciate that. The first time I've used Wago connectors. Aren't they great?
@@JohnTheHandymanUK John they are a game changer. You’ll know yourself if you’ve ever changed a UK pendant fitting for a flush fitting. It’s a real time consuming pain, never mind the ceiling repair after you push a terminal box up in to the ceiling void. Wago do lighting junction boxes for the 222 or new 221 small level connectors. Much smaller hole in the ceiling and a minutes saver. MK now do a Wago style 2 gang uk socket. I’m sold haha👍🏻
@@carter83419 Yes I'm aware there are various versions. Definately the way to go.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK did you put the WAGO power snap blocks inside a cover housing or just leave them dangling (at 3.55) - I would have thought placing then inside the proprietary box would be added safety
@@chrishainstock330 No I didn't see the need for an additional box as the connectors fully cover the ends of the cables.
Was that a weight bearing wall?? If so, how much of the wall should remain for integrity??
Hi Jennifer, no, it wasn't weight bearing. If it had been, I'd not have done the job.
Question. When you removed the drywall and exposed one singular stud, then later in the video before you place the actual bar top in place you see 5 equally spaced 2x4s at equal heights in place slipped in between the walls. Are those just sitting in there with gravity until the bar top is put in and then screwed down from above?
I'm not quite sure which studs you are referring to. At 3.52 the two sides 2x4s are screwed into the existing stud in the side wall. At 3.59 I think I slide 2x4s down into the wall, held with glue. These support the cill.
Are you not meant to have a 35 mm space between extractor fan and cupboards ?
I've never heard of a requirement for a 35mm gap and I can't think of a good reason for it so no I don't think it's necessary.
How do you know if the beam you took out is a support beam or not?
It is a stud partition wall so not load bearing. If it had been a solid wall it most likely would have been load bearing. If you tap a wall you can hear the difference, the stud wall sounds hollow.
When your puppy is pinned it’s a bearing wall
Im desperate to make a small hatch into my dining room but it is a supporting wall. I'd like a glass door or pair of glass doors so I can just open it when I need it, but also let the light in. How do I go about getting the glass door/s ? I can't seem to source anything appropriate, it's only a small hatch due to the restricted space.
Hello, firstly if it's a supporting wall you'll need a lintel to spread the load from above. Probably a job for a builder who might be able to make a simple framed door with glass for you. If you are reasonably good at woodworking then have a go at making a simple frame and hold the glass in place with thin battens.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK thanks, I'm on getting some quotes now