While Tahr hunting in New Zealand mountains, while saving myself from a fall, dropped my rifle 5 metres/ 16 feet onto a scree/flowing stone slope. The steel tube shmidt and bender scope took most of the impact with small dents in the front tube and turret caps dented in to the point where i had to be careful it didn't change zero when taking them off. To my surprise when i shot the rifle to check zero it hadn't changed at all. Lesson learned buy the best quality you can afford.
@@shootinbruin3614 not sure of the model name. I got it around 1995. It was a fixed 6x 40/42. 26mm tube. The reticle was duplex on bottom and sides with a fine on the top; The duplex was square ended and was 1 meter at 100 metres from cross to end of duplex. the turrets were 1 cm at 100m clicks and was the first scope i owned that tracked perfectly. The other feature was when the diopter ring at the back of the scope also made the image crisp but also changed magnification a little. I paid NZ$1350 nearly 30 years ago. More than the remington 700 mountain rifle i put it on.
@@splitpin1764 Spending more on an optic than the rest of the gun is many times actually not a bad decision. And it sounds like you got more than your money's worth. Appreciate the response
I barely heard anything you guys said just drooling over the JAE stock..... Its been my dreamstock for like, ever... Will have to run trough your videos to see if you have made a review on in!
First lecture on the sniper course i did years ago was "don’t pick the rigle up by the scope" that lesson was ingrained into us. I appreciate the bulelt speaks for themselves and Piet has shown zero impact shift however...rifles that have a seperate scope rail are the ones i woukd be most concerned about. The screws that hold that rail on are only small with very fine threads...snatch 20Ibs up and I'd be concerned tha threads could fail. Just my thoughts and I'll continue to carry the rifle by conventional means.
This is a similar argument to only running a bore brush through the barrel the way the bullet travels. As if a copper brush is going to injure the steel barrel. It might remove fouling you want but it physically cannot injure the barrel.
i agree that it hurts watching you destroy a scope that i cant really afford, but better you than me!! i always get a kick out of the people who like to cry about such things.
I have experienced my scope loosening carrying my begara b14 hmr it’s a heavy rifle, But it was user error I originally never put lock tight on the rail screws it has never moved after a quick fix
I wouldn't treat my scopes WITH a warranty like that. When I need to grab my rifle, from my 10/22 and hunting rifle to my ELR rifles, I NEVER use the scope. That's what chassis/stocks are designed for. That's like picking your rifle up by the suppressor.
@@wizzle0979 Totally understand and respect that! I personally pay more for scopes and mounts so they can be put through some abuse. A couple guys have questioned me on picking up my gun that way and I tell em' "if it cant handle that, I dont want it on my gun!"
I see folks do it all the time during PRS matches. No biggie. I don't but that's just my personal preference not too. I will say this, if you do it will let you know if your mount/ring caps loosened up. One match a friend picked his rifle up by the scope and his scope rotated 90 degrees. Can't remember the brand of mount he was using but that explained why he was shooting great and then he wasn't. lol
Use a Non-Ammonia glass cleaner (Stoner's, etc) or a thin mix of quality dishsoap and a new low-pile microfiber cloth or a fresh glasses moleskin ( many Eyeglass retailers have a drawer full of them and will spot you a few if you ask nicely). Never ammonia, it can damage the special HD/ Fluorite coatings on your lens. You can use a mix of vinegar and dishwater too, but make sure it's diluted enough not to leave a film on the lens... that will increase the likelihood of contaminants sticking to it, and also increase susceptibility to fogging on the outside surfaces. Camera stores also sell Lens tissues that work well, too and pack very flat in your bag. Buy a fluffy natural hair makeup brush about the diameter of your thumb at any cosmetics store ( or get the wife to if you're "iffy' about going into a makeup shop.). They are super handy for brushing off any grit/sand/ dirt/ debris that gets on the lens from hiking/ hunting/ wind, or a *gasp* dropped firearm. Poke at the debris to loosen it and flick it out. Don't swirl the brush around on the lens, you can grind/ drag the grit over your glass/ coatings and mar them. Q-tips/ cotton earbuds are handy too, if you keep them in a ziplock bag, but be gentle in case there's grit. I always brush lenses first before wiping. Degrease/ decontaminate next with dishsoap/ dishwater, then last with diluted vinegar or a light spray of Stoner's. Always be gentle. Never scrub.
@@scottcrawford3745 Close, Bushnell Forge. The Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 gets the same love. As I'm a professional hunter these both get a lot of use (abuse), and have thus proven completely resilient to my abysmal treatment.
@@tlc_pest_control_nz Nothing wrong with a Forge at all. I highly recommend those for first time centrefire shooters wanting something better than the Cabela's/ Bass Pro stuff they stick on top to make a "package".
I have carried my rifle this way for years with zero issue. If you have a high quality mounting system combined with a quality optic, properly mounted correctly, on a standard hunting rifle, I can't fathom there being an issue develop.
I think your only issue then is just time. The number of years you do it, could eventually loosen it. Almost like water eroding on a rock etc. But I've always been scared to do it lol
The average hunting rifle in .308 experiences about 350G of acceleration during the recoil impulse, and the scope holds zero. What kind of forces do you expect the scope to be subjected to by lifting a rifle by holding on to it?
@Pallidum part of the equation, in all fairness, is that the recoil impulse is essentially in a straight line. The lifting force is not on the center of the optic, and it is at a right angle. That said..... you are pretty much dead on with your point.
The instruments most likely to fail on your rifle are the magazine, the scope, and the trigger. Why would you grab onto your scope like that when you have a massive stock in size comparison to grab and manipulate.
You can but I wouldn't. Especially if you have something like a night force scope that cost you $3000. That is a technical piece of gear.. Why would you put any stress on it
I’m sorry, but this just isn’t correct. Yes you can get away with it, but no it would not take an excessive amount of force to bend an optic if you lift it anywhere forward of the mount. In fact, I have seen it happen on vortex scopes much more than others!
You can probably get away with it, but why would you ever do that? There is no reason to pick your rig up by the glass....pick it up by the forened thats what its made for. People seem to want every reason to be lazy AF......by just having this conversation......myth confirmed.
Ryan is a wealth of knowledge but it's "subjecting" not "subjugating". I hate to be "that guy" but he so often uses $5 words (sometimes incorrectly) when a 50 cent word will do just fine.
@@toddburns7340 i found that out when was new to shooting a 300win cheap rings and a off brand scope that the tube was just under size you could not move it with your hand but 5 shots and it moved ⅛ inch.
Ryan is extremely knowledgeable and erudite.
While Tahr hunting in New Zealand mountains, while saving myself from a fall, dropped my rifle 5 metres/ 16 feet onto a scree/flowing stone slope. The steel tube shmidt and bender scope took most of the impact with small dents in the front tube and turret caps dented in to the point where i had to be careful it didn't change zero when taking them off. To my surprise when i shot the rifle to check zero it hadn't changed at all. Lesson learned buy the best quality you can afford.
Could you please share which model of S&B scope that was? I didn't know they made steel tube scopes and am genuinely curious
@@shootinbruin3614 not sure of the model name. I got it around 1995. It was a fixed 6x 40/42. 26mm tube. The reticle was duplex on bottom and sides with a fine on the top; The duplex was square ended and was 1 meter at 100 metres from cross to end of duplex. the turrets were 1 cm at 100m clicks and was the first scope i owned that tracked perfectly. The other feature was when the diopter ring at the back of the scope also made the image crisp but also changed magnification a little. I paid NZ$1350 nearly 30 years ago. More than the remington 700 mountain rifle i put it on.
@@splitpin1764 Spending more on an optic than the rest of the gun is many times actually not a bad decision. And it sounds like you got more than your money's worth. Appreciate the response
The scope IS a great lifting handle!
Great to see Ryan on here. Good stuff Piet!
Ryan is awesome! Man is a wealth of knowledge and experience…
I barely heard anything you guys said just drooling over the JAE stock..... Its been my dreamstock for like, ever... Will have to run trough your videos to see if you have made a review on in!
Excellent information, especially about mounting. Thanks!
First lecture on the sniper course i did years ago was "don’t pick the rigle up by the scope" that lesson was ingrained into us. I appreciate the bulelt speaks for themselves and Piet has shown zero impact shift however...rifles that have a seperate scope rail are the ones i woukd be most concerned about. The screws that hold that rail on are only small with very fine threads...snatch 20Ibs up and I'd be concerned tha threads could fail. Just my thoughts and I'll continue to carry the rifle by conventional means.
Fine threads are stronger than coarse threads.
@@kellym3531 Never knew that!! Thanks for the info mate
Agreed. Not a habit, been when I have there's never been any issues.
Yes u can i always do. I also mark all of mine with a paint marker, incase a bolt moves.
How do you determine when a set of rings is "good quality"?
$$$$
Great video, lots of knowledge
This is a similar argument to only running a bore brush through the barrel the way the bullet travels. As if a copper brush is going to injure the steel barrel. It might remove fouling you want but it physically cannot injure the barrel.
love this content. need more!
Great video love the topic
TH-cam didn’t send me a notification about this video. 😡
i agree that it hurts watching you destroy a scope that i cant really afford, but better you than me!! i always get a kick out of the people who like to cry about such things.
I have experienced my scope loosening carrying my begara b14 hmr it’s a heavy rifle, But it was user error I originally never put lock tight on the rail screws it has never moved after a quick fix
Awesome content..!!! 👍🏼
My question would be if your scope had no warranty would you treat it like that?
I carry my NF Atacr's like this.....soooo yes lol.
I wouldn't treat my scopes WITH a warranty like that. When I need to grab my rifle, from my 10/22 and hunting rifle to my ELR rifles, I NEVER use the scope. That's what chassis/stocks are designed for. That's like picking your rifle up by the suppressor.
❤️
To each his own. Anyways, love your videos definitely a subscriber.
@@wizzle0979 Totally understand and respect that! I personally pay more for scopes and mounts so they can be put through some abuse. A couple guys have questioned me on picking up my gun that way and I tell em' "if it cant handle that, I dont want it on my gun!"
I see folks do it all the time during PRS matches. No biggie. I don't but that's just my personal preference not too. I will say this, if you do it will let you know if your mount/ring caps loosened up. One match a friend picked his rifle up by the scope and his scope rotated 90 degrees. Can't remember the brand of mount he was using but that explained why he was shooting great and then he wasn't. lol
That framed George Costanza picture! 👌🥰😅😂
I pick my hunting rifle up by the scope a lot. Brno ZKK600 no problems
The Wizard on Impact Shooting. This is a good day
What do people use to clean the glass on there scopes
Use a Non-Ammonia glass cleaner (Stoner's, etc) or a thin mix of quality dishsoap and a new low-pile microfiber cloth or a fresh glasses moleskin ( many Eyeglass retailers have a drawer full of them and will spot you a few if you ask nicely). Never ammonia, it can damage the special HD/ Fluorite coatings on your lens. You can use a mix of vinegar and dishwater too, but make sure it's diluted enough not to leave a film on the lens... that will increase the likelihood of contaminants sticking to it, and also increase susceptibility to fogging on the outside surfaces. Camera stores also sell Lens tissues that work well, too and pack very flat in your bag. Buy a fluffy natural hair makeup brush about the diameter of your thumb at any cosmetics store ( or get the wife to if you're "iffy' about going into a makeup shop.). They are super handy for brushing off any grit/sand/ dirt/ debris that gets on the lens from hiking/ hunting/ wind, or a *gasp* dropped firearm. Poke at the debris to loosen it and flick it out. Don't swirl the brush around on the lens, you can grind/ drag the grit over your glass/ coatings and mar them.
Q-tips/ cotton earbuds are handy too, if you keep them in a ziplock bag, but be gentle in case there's grit.
I always brush lenses first before wiping. Degrease/ decontaminate next with dishsoap/ dishwater, then last with diluted vinegar or a light spray of Stoner's.
Always be gentle. Never scrub.
generally my cotton shirt, occasionally toilet paper...
@@tlc_pest_control_nz LMFAO> Ah, Sir; I see you're a realist... with a Bushnell Banner, no doubt ? Lol. Well played.
@@scottcrawford3745 Close, Bushnell Forge. The Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 gets the same love. As I'm a professional hunter these both get a lot of use (abuse), and have thus proven completely resilient to my abysmal treatment.
@@tlc_pest_control_nz Nothing wrong with a Forge at all. I highly recommend those for first time centrefire shooters wanting something better than the Cabela's/ Bass Pro stuff they stick on top to make a "package".
Piet, what’s the rings and pic rail you have on this setup?
I have carried my rifle this way for years with zero issue. If you have a high quality mounting system combined with a quality optic, properly mounted correctly, on a standard hunting rifle, I can't fathom there being an issue develop.
I think your only issue then is just time. The number of years you do it, could eventually loosen it. Almost like water eroding on a rock etc. But I've always been scared to do it lol
I’ve carried it that way for 30 years and never an issue. YMMV
Great info pete
I carry my rifle like I carry my Hanzo sword. Like its a precision instrument.
Yes, you can! Should you?! No! The end!
That covers it.👍
The average hunting rifle in .308 experiences about 350G of acceleration during the recoil impulse, and the scope holds zero. What kind of forces do you expect the scope to be subjected to by lifting a rifle by holding on to it?
@Pallidum part of the equation, in all fairness, is that the recoil impulse is essentially in a straight line. The lifting force is not on the center of the optic, and it is at a right angle.
That said..... you are pretty much dead on with your point.
I carry mine by the scope and have never had an issue.
What scope rings are on that rifle?
Hi my fellow south african...do you have any experience with .303 and is it a good hunting/ beginner rifle
There's people iv met that get red lock tite and fasten the base down because they never want it to be a suggested point of failure
Ryan "Muckraker" Muckenhirn as a guest?
I do it all the time
I would not lift my rifle by grabbing the scope. Every time I lift it, I use the stock. In my opinion, the scope is not a carry handle.
It probably isn't the best idea, but it SHOULD be robustly mounted enough to handle anything that any other part of the gun can...
The instruments most likely to fail on your rifle are the magazine, the scope, and the trigger. Why would you grab onto your scope like that when you have a massive stock in size comparison to grab and manipulate.
👏👏👏👏
You can but I wouldn't. Especially if you have something like a night force scope that cost you $3000. That is a technical piece of gear.. Why would you put any stress on it
When Ryan appeared on screen I heard the avengers theme song…
Your scope gets way more abuse every time pull the trigger.
With a cheap scope and cheap rings.... No. With high end optics and good quality rings.... doesn't hurt a thing.
I attach my slings to my scopes
Amazing their barrels are licensed but they can easily acquire suppressors. Us americans can easily acquire barrels but not suppreasors.
I’m sorry, but this just isn’t correct. Yes you can get away with it, but no it would not take an excessive amount of force to bend an optic if you lift it anywhere forward of the mount.
In fact, I have seen it happen on vortex scopes much more than others!
Ag nee man die scope is nomer 1 op jou ketie😮
You can probably get away with it, but why would you ever do that? There is no reason to pick your rig up by the glass....pick it up by the forened thats what its made for. People seem to want every reason to be lazy AF......by just having this conversation......myth confirmed.
Ryan is a wealth of knowledge but it's "subjecting" not "subjugating". I hate to be "that guy" but he so often uses $5 words (sometimes incorrectly) when a 50 cent word will do just fine.
Pete, you need a better microphone. Ryan’s audio is crisp and clean, and you sound like you’re in a bathroom.
Your scope gets way more abuse every time pull the trigger.
Good point. Buy a cheap set of rings and don’t lap them and you’ll find that out quick. Recoil is a beast
@@toddburns7340 i found that out when was new to shooting a 300win cheap rings and a off brand scope that the tube was just under size you could not move it with your hand but 5 shots and it moved ⅛ inch.