What is usually missed is stick welding is constant current not constant voltage. The rotor voltage should be changed to measure the current and control the rotor voltage as a function of the output current. Also there needs to be reactance on the output to smooth the weld.
Thank you! I've got the same alternator and burned out the rectifer diode and figured I'd turn it into a welder instead of using cheap lead acid batteries like I've been. I found this video after I did mine tho. I ended up getting rid of the voltage regulator all together and running a wire from one brush to spade one and a wire from the other brush to spade 2. From what I've read, I have to apply 12v to the armature and the way to do that is through the brushes. Now that I've seen your video, I'm not sure if I shouldve, but I'll find out tomorrow lol. Mines a 35amp 10si tho. Worse case scenario, I buy the rebuild kit that includes all the electric parts(brushes, regulator, rectifer diode, etc) for $13 and do it the way you showed.
"Just a wrench turner"? I've been a wrench turner until I retired. We engineer stuff all the time. Many times we have to resolve problems that engineers create. Never sell yourself short...
dzlfreek I have a 120amp alternator but when I took it apart it isn't anything like yours. so looks like I'm not going to be able do convert it and bypass like you did.
good rule of thumb is if its newer than 1987 this hack wont work. something about the diodes frying at 30 volts. I know just enough about electricity to keep from electrocuting myself. This is where I got most of my info mhickok.blogspot.com/2008/06/weldernator-true-power.html Hope this helps
Why remove the plastic insulator??? Why not just replace the screw with one that doesn't have an insulator on it, it is a common screw size not some special manufactured screw. I do like the idea of having a portable welder though.
could you just swap in a 24v regulator? then use a loop off the output, and the field winding, and run a potentiometer between them? variable voltage to the field, varying amp output, no? 24 is close to buzz box working voltage, so decent arcs. then you could even use a "pile resistor", and charge your bat (12v) with the "weldernator" in desperate times, lol. of course, i guess a 24v marine or truck alt would do it "from the box"
Anybody ever try putting a 120 volt, 60hz start capacitor from a ceiling fan on the leads to the brushes? My theory is that the residual magnetism in the rotor will be enough to cause self excitation, provided the stator is under load. The rotor, rotating inside an alternating current, should pulse at 60hz due to the ability of an AC capacitor to charge and uncharge, without "discharging" as a DC capacitor would require. This allows us to disregard the number of poles:rpm in achieving a replication of mains power (2 poles at about 3,200 rpm for 60 hz), and focus only on voltage:rpm. I built one of these out of a motorcraft "large case" 130 amp alternator, but the rectifier is now external, and I use a rheostat to control the power to the field winding. This gives both an AC tap before the rectifier, and DC after. For reasons that escape me, the original voltage regulator refuses to play nicely with the rheostat. There is a delay between the load being applied, and increasing field voltage. This causes the field to temporarily collapse for about half a second. This isn't a problem with just the rheostat, so it's not a matter of not having enough power to excite the armature windings. Perhaps a voltage regulator by a difference manufacturer would be better?
Hi, so I've been trying to use a DR44G with a briggs 675 series. Removed the regulator, 12 to excitor brush, ground to case. Max output I've been able to get was 31v. Am I missing something? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Make sure the windings on the armature are completely isolated from any other circuits. This includes through the bearings. I recommend not using the case as ground for this, as in the event your diodes fail shorted, you're getting 120 volts of AC at more than enough amperage to kill.
As I understand it, the rectifier in newer alternators can't handle the higher output voltage and will fry. Any alternator with an output of 75+ amps will work, 100+ amps is preferred.
If it's actually internal on one that old, remove the voltage regulator/brush holder, cut the two wires on the inside, and extend them to an externally accessable location.
What is usually missed is stick welding is constant current not constant voltage. The rotor voltage should be changed to measure the current and control the rotor voltage as a function of the output current.
Also there needs to be reactance on the output to smooth the weld.
Thank you! I've got the same alternator and burned out the rectifer diode and figured I'd turn it into a welder instead of using cheap lead acid batteries like I've been. I found this video after I did mine tho. I ended up getting rid of the voltage regulator all together and running a wire from one brush to spade one and a wire from the other brush to spade 2. From what I've read, I have to apply 12v to the armature and the way to do that is through the brushes. Now that I've seen your video, I'm not sure if I shouldve, but I'll find out tomorrow lol. Mines a 35amp 10si tho. Worse case scenario, I buy the rebuild kit that includes all the electric parts(brushes, regulator, rectifer diode, etc) for $13 and do it the way you showed.
I have a 100 amp alternator out of my 84 Chevy K30 CUCV after I converted it from 24V to 12V. Guess it's a good candidate.
Dude I converted mine to 12v and kept both alternators it jump starts anything
"Just a wrench turner"? I've been a wrench turner until I retired. We engineer stuff all the time. Many times we have to resolve problems that engineers create. Never sell yourself short...
Why not just pull the diode pack amd voltage limiter and limit the volts to 36, on one of the newer high performance alternator? And weld AC?
Thanks just what I was looking for......
Johnson B youre welcome
dzlfreek I have a 120amp alternator but when I took it apart it isn't anything like yours. so looks like I'm not going to be able do convert it and bypass like you did.
good rule of thumb is if its newer than 1987 this hack wont work. something about the diodes frying at 30 volts. I know just enough about electricity to keep from electrocuting myself. This is where I got most of my info mhickok.blogspot.com/2008/06/weldernator-true-power.html Hope this helps
dzlfreek Thanks, I decided to just splurge and went bought a ac Delco.
can you email me had a question theridgegamebirdfarm@gmail.com
Why remove the plastic insulator??? Why not just replace the screw with one that doesn't have an insulator on it, it is a common screw size not some special manufactured screw. I do like the idea of having a portable welder though.
could you just swap in a 24v regulator? then use a loop off the output, and the field winding, and run a potentiometer between them? variable voltage to the field, varying amp output, no? 24 is close to buzz box working voltage, so decent arcs. then you could even use a "pile resistor", and charge your bat (12v) with the "weldernator" in desperate times, lol. of course, i guess a 24v marine or truck alt would do it "from the box"
Ok I need help I did every thing like you did but I can't get 110 volts out of it do I need a battery
did you hook 12 volts to the big lug on the back of the alternator? if so, how much voltage are you getting?
Hey what about the generator off the 1955 265 engines?
not enough amps or volts
Anybody ever try putting a 120 volt, 60hz start capacitor from a ceiling fan on the leads to the brushes?
My theory is that the residual magnetism in the rotor will be enough to cause self excitation, provided the stator is under load.
The rotor, rotating inside an alternating current, should pulse at 60hz due to the ability of an AC capacitor to charge and uncharge, without "discharging" as a DC capacitor would require.
This allows us to disregard the number of poles:rpm in achieving a replication of mains power (2 poles at about 3,200 rpm for 60 hz), and focus only on voltage:rpm.
I built one of these out of a motorcraft "large case" 130 amp alternator, but the rectifier is now external, and I use a rheostat to control the power to the field winding.
This gives both an AC tap before the rectifier, and DC after.
For reasons that escape me, the original voltage regulator refuses to play nicely with the rheostat. There is a delay between the load being applied, and increasing field voltage.
This causes the field to temporarily collapse for about half a second.
This isn't a problem with just the rheostat, so it's not a matter of not having enough power to excite the armature windings.
Perhaps a voltage regulator by a difference manufacturer would be better?
thanks for watching!
Hi, so I've been trying to use a DR44G with a briggs 675 series. Removed the regulator, 12 to excitor brush, ground to case. Max output I've been able to get was 31v. Am I missing something? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Make sure the windings on the armature are completely isolated from any other circuits.
This includes through the bearings.
I recommend not using the case as ground for this, as
in the event your diodes fail shorted, you're getting 120 volts of AC at more than enough amperage to kill.
New to your videos. was wondering if a ford 220amp alternator would work and what would i need to remove fr it to work? Thanks in advance
Ford welder.... idk bro.. jk lol
dose the alternator have do be from the 80s and will a truck alternator work better
As I understand it, the rectifier in newer alternators can't handle the higher output voltage and will fry. Any alternator with an output of 75+ amps will work, 100+ amps is preferred.
ah ok thanks looks like I got to search the junk yards for an older one
Whats thats web site to find the information
mhickok.blogspot.com/2008/06/weldernator-true-power.html
How do you bypass the regulator on a 95 amp 3g alternator?
If it's actually internal on one that old, remove the voltage regulator/brush holder, cut the two wires on the inside, and extend them to an externally accessable location.
bueno
gracias
lol
Hi I would like to talk to you about a project im working on if you could write me back you would be able to help alot