I had the same problem one dead cylinder, I to thought it was a coil pack and or injector changed them both still had a miss fire. What I found was the injector was not getting signal from ECU and this is how i fixed it: Standing in front of the car looking at the engine left side you will find the wiring harness connector for the fuel injectors there should be two Connectors. If you can't find them follow wires from injectors until you find the main electrical harness connectors. Open the connector look in both sides see if you see greenish corrosion if you do clean it out the best you can sand paper on the male side and pointed round file on female side then a little break clean, reassemble with dielectric grease. That worked for me. I think what happen was driving in the rain the cooling fan for the engine picks up water slings it right on to the connectors and causes corrosion that is why I used dielectric grease when I reassembled. Good luck
**ATTENTION Z OWNERS!** THIS GUY FUCKED UP!! DO NOT USE FUCKING AUTO ZONE SPARK PLUGS! THIS CAR ONLY TAKES ONE KIND OF NGK SPARK PLUG AND ONE ONLY! THIS ENGINE WAS MADE WITH ONE SPARK PLUG IN MIND ANY OTHER AND IT GETS IDLE ISSUES....HERE YOU GO MERRY CHRISTMAS... FOR N/A .. NGK PFR 6B-11... AND FOR TT .. NGK PFR 6B-11B ..
And so u know I'm well aware of that but when u have 3 300zx and this one u beat the shit out of and don't care when the mortgage is due and you had a short week at work you buy what you can afford
Check your ptu wiring harness first, it’s should be by your intake hose on the power steering side. Sand the connections with some sandpaper and start it. If its not that then I would take the whole aluminum intake manifolds off. You can take this time to replace anything in this area. I would buy new fuel injector seat o rings, plenum balance tube o rings, intake manifold gasket. i highly recommend z1 pcv hose for left and right (old ones will probably crack and cause vaccum leak). When done wether you did a coolant bypass or not you must bleed your coolant system or your rpm will idle up and down.
Ive been trying to remove my fuel injectors and change them for days and I haven't been the slightest bit successful. My main issue is actually removing the injectors. They all seem to be stuck inside and I can't remove any of them. How did you remove yours? Is there anything you did before you started?
Since you don't need them, take two screws and jab 'em down into the top, then you can get more leverage on them, back and forth with 'impact' like upward movements. I think I did one with a piece of across the plunum and a channel lock is some sort of leverage situation.. Can't remember exactly. I think there is some advice out there on a Z Forum for this.
Lol no from the amount of these that I've owned I've realized that sometimes you just end up Chasing Ghosts and I had a rb26 to put in the car but unfortunately because of matters out of my control never got the chance before I sold the car and motor
You can take a screwdriver or stethoscope and touch it to the injector while cranking engine with fuel system disabled. You will hear a click every time that cylinder tries to fire or you take a 9 volt battery, attach a lead to each of the posts and touch 1 lead to either post on injector and the other lead on the other post (doesn't matter +/- to which post). You will hear a click when you touch and another when you separate. It's a solenoid opening and closing.
Quick and dirty test. Cut the 2 wires to injector keeping track which is which. Touch the wires to a 9volt battery and listen for a click. If it clicks your problem is further upstream in the electrical circuit for that cylinder. Remember to splice the wires you cut back together and make the joints as waterproof as possible. Solder Seal butt connectors highly recommended.
Man bro I have no clue what to do next to fix this problem. I literally was driving then boom out of no where code 51 injector circuit open or something like that. Cyl 1 and 3 stopped working then I cleaned injector 1 connector and that fixed the issue for cyl 1 but when I did that for cyl 3 it stayed dead. Idk what to do next I'm so lost
How long did you drive it with a bad Injector? have You to set the coil you should be getting point .07 Ω across terminal 1 and 2 I believe u can email me if you would like pm me
And given the fact that you queend so under one and it came back I'm going to assume you have Corrosion build-up I would check your coil pack plug ptu and cas I believe I so have the Walkthrough for testing these parts and obviously looking for corrosion is obvious if you need anything I'll be more than glad to help
santiago amaral there was an issue inside the wiring I ended up changing the ECU PTU cas and wiring harness and fix the issue I checked everything but still couldn't find source of problem if I was you I would start by checking the cas because that has the most to do with fuel
ok, what if not getting spark, changed out ecu, ptu, spark plug, and coil. I guess right to assume that the wiring harness is the culprit? how easy is it to deal with?
@@baxterdeberry3463 hey Z1 Motorsports sells a whole brand new engine harness if you're having that many problems it might be worth the investment to start there.
@@Vgk36 ill check into it, unfortunately its not a standard, but a tt auto. New harnesses for that are a bit hard to find. I got a few tests I'm gonna do in 2 weeks to it when I go back home. See if there's any problems in that. Also I haven't changed the O2 for that side, I believe it is bad though. However that wouldn't keep two cylinders from firing would it? 1 has no problem. Just 3 & 5. If I need to change it I can cause I bought a new one oem for it just haven't put it on.
I had the same problem one dead cylinder, I to thought it was a coil pack and or injector changed them both still had a miss fire. What I found was the injector was not getting signal from ECU and this is how i fixed it: Standing in front of the car looking at the engine left side you will find the wiring harness connector for the fuel injectors there should be two Connectors. If you can't find them follow wires from injectors until you find the main electrical harness connectors. Open the connector look in both sides see if you see greenish corrosion if you do clean it out the best you can sand paper on the male side and pointed round file on female side then a little break clean, reassemble with dielectric grease. That worked for me. I think what happen was driving in the rain the cooling fan for the engine picks up water slings it right on to the connectors and causes corrosion that is why I used dielectric grease when I reassembled. Good luck
I'm gonna look into this on mine in two weeks. Thanks
Thanks, I replaced all the coils today, I will check this before I move on to injectors.
can you describe a miss fire, i have a 1991 tt, and I lose throttle on the free way but engine still on. so im thinking its injectors
**ATTENTION Z OWNERS!** THIS GUY FUCKED UP!! DO NOT USE FUCKING AUTO ZONE SPARK PLUGS! THIS CAR ONLY TAKES ONE KIND OF NGK SPARK PLUG AND ONE ONLY! THIS ENGINE WAS MADE WITH ONE SPARK PLUG IN MIND ANY OTHER AND IT GETS IDLE ISSUES....HERE YOU GO MERRY CHRISTMAS...
FOR N/A .. NGK PFR 6B-11... AND
FOR TT .. NGK PFR 6B-11B ..
And so u know I'm well aware of that but when u have 3 300zx and this one u beat the shit out of and don't care when the mortgage is due and you had a short week at work you buy what you can afford
Replace the phillips head screws with hex screws (once you have them out). :)
Fyi, it's not a Philips screw being Japanese, it's JIS. Makes the world of difference for how much torque you can apply.
The screw bit on a ratchet for pressure is a great tip.
Yeah make a video where u should someone how to make the same stupid and lazy decision u did
Check your ptu wiring harness first, it’s should be by your intake hose on the power steering side. Sand the connections with some sandpaper and start it. If its not that then I would take the whole aluminum intake manifolds off. You can take this time to replace anything in this area. I would buy new fuel injector seat o rings, plenum balance tube o rings, intake manifold gasket. i highly recommend z1 pcv hose for left and right (old ones will probably crack and cause vaccum leak). When done wether you did a coolant bypass or not you must bleed your coolant system or your rpm will idle up and down.
people, please don't do this to your car. just do it the right way.
Ive been trying to remove my fuel injectors and change them for days and I haven't been the slightest bit successful. My main issue is actually removing the injectors. They all seem to be stuck inside and I can't remove any of them. How did you remove yours? Is there anything you did before you started?
I just twisted mine and it came out I would try spraying them with some liquid wrench or tabbing them with a rubber hammer
Just changed mine and had the same problem, I got a whole new set so I just hammered out the old ones
Since you don't need them, take two screws and jab 'em down into the top, then you can get more leverage on them, back and forth with 'impact' like upward movements. I think I did one with a piece of across the plunum and a channel lock is some sort of leverage situation.. Can't remember exactly. I think there is some advice out there on a Z Forum for this.
@@alexceni377 thanks, I'll keep my bfh near by
Hahahaha that ending message, I bet you fucken like skized hard when this didn't fix your problem after all that effort
Lol no from the amount of these that I've owned I've realized that sometimes you just end up Chasing Ghosts and I had a rb26 to put in the car but unfortunately because of matters out of my control never got the chance before I sold the car and motor
for viewers who dont know its a 5/8 socket not 7/8
How do you get the injector out? Mine are flush and aren't coming out
You can take a screwdriver or stethoscope and touch it to the injector while cranking engine with fuel system disabled. You will hear a click every time that cylinder tries to fire or you take a 9 volt battery, attach a lead to each of the posts and touch 1 lead to either post on injector and the other lead on the other post (doesn't matter +/- to which post). You will hear a click when you touch and another when you separate. It's a solenoid opening and closing.
Quick and dirty test. Cut the 2 wires to injector keeping track which is which. Touch the wires to a 9volt battery and listen for a click. If it clicks your problem is further upstream in the electrical circuit for that cylinder. Remember to splice the wires you cut back together and make the joints as waterproof as possible. Solder Seal butt connectors highly recommended.
Were you able to fix the problem. I have the same problem with my 1990 300zx.
Use long angled needle nose pliers and you won't have to cut the screw
Use dielectric grease to have a good connection? Lol
Put new plug in fire up the car run the car shut down the car pulling plug see if fuel is reaching the spark plug
Ty for your input the car was getting fuel spark and had compression never found out the issue before selling the car
Man bro I have no clue what to do next to fix this problem. I literally was driving then boom out of no where code 51 injector circuit open or something like that. Cyl 1 and 3 stopped working then I cleaned injector 1 connector and that fixed the issue for cyl 1 but when I did that for cyl 3 it stayed dead. Idk what to do next I'm so lost
How long did you drive it with a bad Injector? have You to set the coil you should be getting point .07 Ω across terminal 1 and 2 I believe u can email me if you would like pm me
And given the fact that you queend so under one and it came back I'm going to assume you have Corrosion build-up I would check your coil pack plug ptu and cas I believe I so have the Walkthrough for testing these parts and obviously looking for corrosion is obvious if you need anything I'll be more than glad to help
I did this and my car lost spark wtf
So what ended up being the problem because I have same issue
santiago amaral there was an issue inside the wiring I ended up changing the ECU PTU cas and wiring harness and fix the issue I checked everything but still couldn't find source of problem if I was you I would start by checking the cas because that has the most to do with fuel
thedrift guy did you check the 02 sensor?
ok, what if not getting spark, changed out ecu, ptu, spark plug, and coil. I guess right to assume that the wiring harness is the culprit? how easy is it to deal with?
@@baxterdeberry3463 hey Z1 Motorsports sells a whole brand new engine harness if you're having that many problems it might be worth the investment to start there.
@@Vgk36 ill check into it, unfortunately its not a standard, but a tt auto. New harnesses for that are a bit hard to find. I got a few tests I'm gonna do in 2 weeks to it when I go back home. See if there's any problems in that. Also I haven't changed the O2 for that side, I believe it is bad though. However that wouldn't keep two cylinders from firing would it? 1 has no problem. Just 3 & 5. If I need to change it I can cause I bought a new one oem for it just haven't put it on.