This looks like the basis of a really good small bookshelf speaker. I’m interested in trying it with a front port, maybe slotted and a Lepai plate amplifier. You certainly did a nice job. I’ll have to convert the dimensions to metric because I haven’t used imperial for almost 50 years. WinISP should help with that but this is the size box I’m shooting for. Very well done.
I honestly felt the same way, but these have sounded great. Sure, you'll probably get better sound from a 2 or 3 way setup, but for the price and ease of making, very impressed
I built a set of ported boxes using these drivers. I made mine taller and narrower. Driving them with a Marantz SR7015, I set the crossover to the subwoofers (3 - 12" ported) at 80 hz. They sound amazing especially after Audessey correction. To my ears they compare favourably to a $3000 MTM pair that I own.
Check out the PRV 10" full range drivers on PE, 100dB, I dropped them in some old 1.8cf Vega boxes and they sound amazing and with real bass. I have 2 other great pair of speakers but can't stop listening to these.
Great job as always! They look great and I love the ratchet strap tip. I might just use that on my next build. You may consider making a small baffle step compensation circuit to help level out the bass and mids with the highs. I think you'll see you'll want one once you hook up the microphone to it. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks man! I'll look into that at some point... Btw I used one of your videos on adding a speaker into WinISD in one of the cards. I just barely touched on it and you have a good video on that already 😉
The Jasper Jig is defiantly speaker builders best friend. I cringe at the idea of using a jigsaw anymore, that's soo highschool haha The veneer first try worked out well, they look awesome.
Excellent video. Did you say that was your first time using veneer? Wow, you did an excellent job. Only thing I would change is I would go ahead and solder the cables to the speaker. It would only take a few minutes and you've done everything else well, so why not use the best connection to the driver that you can. (minor difference, I know). Great job and thanks for sharing. Speakers: $200 Gear to make the speakers: $700 Making your speakers yourself: "Priceless" (Sorry, I couldn't resist) 😎👍🔊
I've done many book shelves, nice job. To make those stand out (yeah I heard ya on spikes ;), if you get the machined aluminum 1 or 2" spikes WITH round concave feet for the spike to stand in as to not scratch your surface. Just need to put rubber isolators on those concave spike stands to not have aluminum to surface contact. Hope that makes sense. It completely changes the look of the book shelf speaker... cheers Like placing the spike inside a concave nickel or quarter and flat on the bottom.
Thanks man. Yea I've put spikes on some towers and center channel I built in the past from PE with those disks on the bottom. They are both awesome and a pain lol. Those rubber pads are just super easy...
@@LifeofBliss Coolio. But just think what those little guys would look like sitting on 2" killer machined spikes, night and day. It aint no pain! 4 holes and thread inserts. Hell they even have push in self locking certs! No Pain... NO GAIN lol. Take care!
@@CreamyCornCob 😂 spikes do look nice... I'll give you that. I just think about anytime I had to move them and took forever to position the feet! 😉 maybe on the next build. I have 2 sets in my spare parts box actually lol
Thanks for the really detailed explanation. It is going to be a big help for beginners. I just have a question that I couldn't find from below. I saw you have good amount of insulator stuffed inside the enclosure. Are those occupied spaces going to move the frequency you wanted? or Can we just ignore it? Please let us know your thoughts. Thanks,
The foam inside the enclosure is to help damp the sound waves inside the cabinet so they don't bounce back and hit the back side of the speaker, causing distortion. It doesn't take up any airspace as its breathable.
I feel like not only is that foam really dense and is acting just like the MDF sidewalls would initially, but also very space consuming and change the volume of the box? Am I wrong in this assumption? I’ve been wrong before lol 😂 I’m eager to see those graphs. I do have to say that the Venere job is flawless and to be honest I haven’t seen another DIYer even come close 🤙🏼 keep up the good work
It's not super dense foam. Just like a mattress topper or polyfill, it shouldn't reduce the perceived volume for the driver. From what I understand, it should actually slightly increase the perceived volume of the enclosure as it makes the air more dense. It's a pretty common material used in enclosures. Appreciate it man, it was my first time using veneer and I'm very happy with how it came out!
Hi,you put great care of making your project look good,(and it does) I would like to add a few suggestions to make it SOUND better (this is to inform,not to criticise) 1) THe inside of the speaker hole should de rounded (with your router) apparently,it reduce distortion. 2)You should never mount a speaker flush with a cabinet,it promote edge diffraction. You could glue a black felt fabric on half the front panel and put the speaker over it. 3)Foam lining inside the box,is good,but you don't need to put some on all sides,just one side and the back face is enough,putting to much, robs you of volume.One type i use is for shipping,its has a wave pattern on the surface,its better for dispersing sound. 4)Foam is to prevent standing waves but you still need a damping material. I use sheep wool at 1 pound per cubic feet (if you can find some) pillow foam is ok as well. 5)Wood screws and mdf don't go well together,they will get loose over time. You could use a bolt and a T nutt(i think its called).The nut looks like a washer with spikes .You pre-drill all the speaker holes,put the board in a vice with the nutt,add pressure,the pressure will drive the spikes in the wood.When you install your speakers,the screws will never loosen and you can take them out,put them back in as many times as you wish,they will always hold. Bye. Lucien
Mounting flush mitigates edge diffraction, as the edges of your driver’s basket are no longer the point of resonance for those waves. Adding damping material does not rob you of volume, if anything it will increase the volume the driver “sees” as you are basically decreasing the speed of sound inside your enclosure as the sound now must travel through all the fibers of whichever material you’re using. You are totally right about the T-nuts though, that’s a super good tip that I don’t think enough speaker builders use
Hey man, appreciate the tips! I don't know if I agree about the flush mounting, from what I've read I think it's supposed to help with edge diffraction... The foam should actually increase the perceived volume like the comment above said. I may go back and add some polyfill later after doing some measurements though. I really don't like MDF with screws either. I haven't had issues with smaller drivers like this, but subwoofer builds I've had some issues... I've had to tape the back of the hole off, fill it with wood glue and saw dust, then redrill a mounting hole. Not fun lol. Appreciate the comment, always something to learn with this sort of stuff!
@@criven3128 1)I disagree with you on the point of edge diffraction.I am not sure you understand what edge diffraction is.When air waves escape from your box,some of it,at the edge of the box, will bend and try to stick on the face of the cabinet.This bending effect cause edge diffraction or some call it edge distortion.By using a felt material on the box front plate,the sound wave is presented with tiny hairs standing up witch minimise the sticking effect,witch reduce edge diffraction .The sound wave don't see the edge anymore.(To a point) The magazine SPEAKER BUILDER,had many articles on the subject.Or look at very very expensive speakers,you will find many that the drivers are mounted outside the face of the cabinet. Over the years,it looks like 50% of people involved with speaker desing,will say flush mounting is good,the other half will say its not. 2)Foam material will rob you of volume if its to thick and to dense.Open cell foam should be used.(You can blow air trough it) 4)Damping material (some kind of wool,Polyfill is a good start.) is used as a damper,to prevent your speaker from oscillating when its not supposed to.(Like the shock absorber on a car).It will contribute to reducing standing wave reflections.It will also prevent your speaker cone to over travel on a high peak signal,thus,protecting it.(To a point)
lucien pellerin my understanding of edge diffraction differs a tad. Because individual drivers can never be perfectly directional and generally produce sound in all directions, when the driver produces any given frequency, that frequency will travel out in a radiating pattern from the driver’s basket. Those waves will then propagate across the baffle to the edges, and if those edges aren’t rounded over or chamfered, those waves will use the corners on all sides of the baffle as a point of emittance, emanating from the baffle and causing peaks or dips in the frequency response that correspond with the width and height of the baffle. Very little outside of subwoofer design in loudspeakers production actually has to do with the “movement” of air, as a loudspeaker doesn’t actually move the air as much as it vibrates it. Flush mounting a driver simply gives those vibrations a longer distance to travel, making it more difficult for high-frequency energy to travel to an edge and use that edge as a point of emittance. It also gives the builder the option of rounding over or chamfering the baffle, which provides an even more linear response as the easier path for the waves is to simply follow the curve of the roundover into the sides of the enclosure, eliminating most if not all chance for baffle diffraction.
@@criven3128 that was my general understanding as well, which is why I rounded over the sides of my home theater speakers. I wasn't able to round these due to the veneer process...
wow! great finish work! Thank you very much for this helpful video. I am kinda noob in this and I have some questions, do Full range speakers like those need an amplifier? if it is possible to run them on my desktop computer with a 3.5mm jack. and what's the difference between crossovers and amplifiers? I haven't found specific answers on the subject. and if it is worth making just one speaker (mono) as a bookshelf speaker just for everyday listening (I'm not an audiophile). in the purpose of simplicity and reducing costs.
Hi! great video! I'm looking to get small surround as i dont have much room. I have a small 6'' deep table behind the couch that the surround would go on. I know not ideal placement, but would they work as ''near feild'' surround ?!
You could definitely use these for rear surrounds near field. If you are looking for something to build, this would be a good project. But you may save a little money by buying a smaller 4 or 5.25 inch 2 way speaker from OSD Audio, Klipsch, or something like that.
When using software for finding a cabinet volume and port one needs to put in the future crossover coil resistance and cabinet volume damping. Your foam changes this volume? so such calculations are mostly irrelevant when you measure real enclosure parameters. Better use some sort of wool placed closer to the center of the cabinet or along the rear wall. The foam usually makes virtual enclosure volume smaller and the wool makes it larger.
Yo Life of Bliss, what up!!! Damn those speaker sounded louder and clearer than I expected for a small full range. The finish is on the money too. I can't do stuff like that so I just Duratek my speakers, since I'm a dj after all. In fact I even duratek'd my 3-way studio monitors. By the way, if you ever get the chance, I HIGHLY recommend the beston ribbon tweeter (Part # 277-112) for only $43. It is the sweetest, lightest, cleanest, smoothest tweeter I have ever heard. For that price you can't go wrong. And yeah I love Parts Express. I buy almost all of my speaker parts from them. But anyway, now that you've covered every part of your audio needs, what's next???????
Thanks man! I really want to do more building, I'll keep that tweeter in mind. I have a few more amps in for review. And I am only using 3 of the 4 channels on that Sinbosen amp. I have a plan for that though as soon as it warms up a bit... 😁
Hola, excelente trabajo. Se ve muy bien hecho y parece que el sonido es muy bueno de acuerdo a tus comentarios. ¿Cómo se sigue desempeñando? Una pregunta: ¿Qué opinarías del modelo de Tang Band: Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver 8 Ohm? Gracias y éxito en todos tus proyectos.
Nice building skils! :) Possibly a better driver for the money is MarkAudio CHR70. I think it will outperform that TangBang without breaking a swet. Hopeing to set an itch for a new build :))
Hey man. I have a lot of car speakers laying around. Can I build something like that? I understand the big issue is impedance but not sure if something increases ohms or something like that
Do you have a table saw extender set on im not sure what there called but they basically make your table of the table saw bigger do you have one or did it come like that?
I made an extension table that bolts on to the back side. It was a custom thing I made. There are a few articles on it online if you search the specific model for that table saw
The damping material does not take up volume in an enclosure. It actually has the opposite effect and gives the enclosure a perceived larger volume for the speaker
Full range drivers still need a filter inside to compensate for baffle step sound rise due to the width of the front baffle. This will provide the perception of more bass because the overall response will be more balanced top to bottom.
Great job! Would this work well to make the same thing with 8" drivers? I want more full sound for a living room environment. If you know of a kit for a simple 8" full range that would be great I don't have a table saw or router
@@LifeofBliss what if I had a full range, a mid range and a tweeter in one box would that make it better 🤔 I'm doing a super studio monitor myself instead of paying $6,000 for a pair
@@TheMessenger212 not a great idea. You'll get a lot of cancelation between drivers if they're playing the same frequencies. You'll want a woofer, mid, and tweeter, or a woofer/tweeter. Then you'll have to make a crossover network to send the correct frequencies to the different drivers. You may look into kits available to build that have all of the drivers and crossovers already picked out. Diy sound group or meniscus audio are good places to look into
TIP: cut your driver holes before you cut your final fronts (baffles) you will have a larger piece to clamp to cut, and easier to rout, or use a jig saw
Same here. I've always painted things before this. I always make test cuts before doing my baffles, I just think with veneer it would look cleaner if I cut the holes after applying it. Definitely would suck if you messed up at that point though 😅
Hey man, I love your videos! I have a suggestion for you. What do you think about rating and/or ranking DIY kits? There’s no one out there doing it, and you have the abilities and the following to make it happen. I myself am looking at DIY kits from a ton of sources, and it’s difficult to make a decision, since they all have different strengths, and no one is out there comparing them. Just a suggestion. Keep up the great work!
Thanks man. I would LOVE to do more DIY kits and test them out. Problem is time... Time to make and finish these speakers to my standard (I try to make things look decent for my skill level 😉) gets a bit time consuming. And the cost on some kits would add up if not given to me by a company for some sort of build and review. I'll definitely keep trying to pump out some fun DIY speakers, kits and custom, but they'll probably only be a few per year. Thanks for the feedback sir!
Life of Bliss , if people are interested in reviews of DIY kits, let them send in their finished pair to you for review. Would be similar to what GR Research does. He has customers sending him their speakers for measurement and tuning. No need for you to tune something. Just a basic measurement of frequence response and distortion level. And putting the focus on listening impressions. After some reviews done, the DIY interested can choose a concept to build his own new speakers. (my english limited, i di stop now)
If you stuff the enclosure with foam wont that cause the speakers muffle.. should the speaker need to breathe I was told that you should never put anything in your speakers because it will soak up the sound waves
As long as you aren't stuffing things around the voice coil or spider, the speaker can "breathe" fine. When speakers move, sound waves are produced both outside the box and inside the box. You don't want those waves on the inside bouncing off the walls and hitting the back of the speaker cone. This will cause distortion as it effects the movement of the cone. You want something breathable such as foam, mattress topper, polyfill, or insulation to absorb those waves. Air space is not effected with t hise breathable materials, and actually adding some sort if filling will usually give the enclosure a larger perceived volume as it makes the air more dense to move
Really? I thought they sounded pretty clear, but a little laid back. Not very bright speakers. But overall a good sound. Little EQ to bring the bass up and they've been good for me.
@@LifeofBliss I have 5 of them, at first I thought I had a bad one but they all sound like that. Tried 2 different amps just to make sure. I have to dial in a shelf of 6-10db from about 10K with a parametric EQ to get some clarity in the upper range.
@@NicB-Creations You need to point them at your ears, sweet spot is the narrowest possible. Mids are one of the best regardless of price, highs are not great even directly pointed at the ears
@@LifeofBliss I knew ya knew it, its a habit to break. I broke it 30+ years ago. So when you hear it, it makes your underwear into impossible wedgies! Just inbed in brain, DAMP and DAMPING! Never Dampening. YOUR NOT wetting anything! heheh
Is it possible to use full range woofers in a 5.1 home theater build? I have a relatively small basement space, about 120 sq. ft, (10x12) and low drop ceiling (8 ft) so I was thinking that using coaxial or full range woofers would work pretty well. Building large front towers or a really large center, and surround speakers would be a bit intrusive. Any quick tips would be very much appreciated.
Sure, its possible. Youll probably get better performance out of smaller bookshelf speakers though in a tweeter/woofer design. Take a look at DIY Sound Group, they have quite a few kits that are smaller and would work great
carefull, those speakers need more than hundred houres to get to the final sound. they will become fuller sounding and the bas will get deeper and more voluminous
1)I disagree with you on the point of edge diffraction.I am not sure you understand what edge diffraction is.When air waves escape from your box,some of it,at the edge of the box, will bend and try to stick on the face of the cabinet.This bending effect cause edge diffraction or some call it edge distortion.By using a felt material on the box front plate,the sound wave is presented with tiny hairs standing up witch minimise the sticking effect,witch reduce edge diffraction .The sound wave don't see the edge anymore.(To a point) The magazine SPEAKER BUILDER,had many articles on the subject.Or look at very very expensive speakers,you will find many that the drivers are mounted outside the face of the cabinet. Over the years,it looks like 50% of people involved with speaker desing,will say flush mounting is good,the other half will say its not. 2)Foam material will rob you of volume if its to thick and to dense.Open cell foam should be used.(You can blow air trough it) 4)Damping material (some kind of wool,Polyfill is a good start.) is used as a damper,to prevent your speaker from oscillating when its not supposed to.(Like the shock absorber on a car).It will contribute to reducing standing wave reflections.It will also prevent your speaker cone to over travel on a high peak signal,thus,protecting it.(To a point) 3) Your connecting posts should be in a recessed compartment,it will protect them and,possibly,your furniture behind them as well. I can see your a speaker enthusiast,keep it up. Bye. Lucien
I have made that mistake with the terminal posts. Live and learn. I like to put a roundover on the sides and top to help with baffle diffraction. But, that makes it harder to apply veneer.
@@DIYAudioGuy Here is a suggestion:1) Use a large router bit (to give a 1 inch diameter circle ) for your corners. 2)Buy veneer without glue,use contact glue instead ,contact glue will never let it go. 3) Put a sheet of veneer much larger than the box,on the face,make it stick (use a roller) When the face is well stuck,go for the sides.Cut out excess and speakers holes. Wish you luck. Bye. Lucien
No way you can build these for under $200, the veneer alone is at least 50 and speakers are 160 thats over 200 right there. binding posts, port tube, speaker wire, speaker gasket, wood to build the cabinet. come on man! Great video though!
Well not today in Joe Biden's America! Cmon man! 😂😉 couldn't help myself... but this was over 2 years ago, it was right at $200 for my supplies then. Veneer wasn't the best brand and I already had the mdf leftover from other projects. But really, you're talking like 250 today. The small parts don't cost much, mainly the drivers and wood/veneer are the bulk of it. Have a good one man
You seem to be commenting on guys' physic rather than watching the intended content of video... almost like your... 🧐 take the video off repeat bud. Give it a break already!
respect on all the working steps with your handcrafting / paint job =) looking really nice
You match that wood grain up perfect good job bro
After having seen your GIANT home theater-centric builds, this threw me off for a bit. Lovely build!!
Didn't need a box bigger than my dest in my office 😅 thanks man!
That was great you are a natural can't find anything to critique
absolutely gorgeous work, pleasure to watch your skill and craftsmanship, and the speakers are beautiful!
Thank you very much! Hope it helped you out with your projects!
PartsExpress is the cat's pajamas! Best shipping department on the planet, awesome customer service and they stock a ton of good stuff.
Thank you so much for all the hard work to present us with great content. I start my tritrix build this weekend and am now inspired.
Thats a beautiful point-source build!
After watching this vid, I subscribed your channel. Thanks for uploading this vid. Appreciated a lot.
You are ridiculously talented my friend. Great video Kyle.
Appreciate it man! Wasn't able to watch the live stream but wanted to poke my head in and say hi on it lol
adding 1 sub, the sound will be nicer. I respect your hard-working on this PJ.
Your explanation is very clear, thank you. 👍
This looks like the basis of a really good small bookshelf speaker. I’m interested in trying it with a front port, maybe slotted and a Lepai plate amplifier. You certainly did a nice job.
I’ll have to convert the dimensions to metric because I haven’t used imperial for almost 50 years. WinISP should help with that but this is the size box I’m shooting for.
Very well done.
THOSE ARE BEAUTIFUL! GREAT JOB.
Thank you for such a detailed build.
The only thing missing is some "Magnus Deus" music at the end))
Gorgeous speakers! Thank you for sharing.
Great video ! I have been on the fence about full range drivers but you just convinced me to go for it. Thank you
I honestly felt the same way, but these have sounded great. Sure, you'll probably get better sound from a 2 or 3 way setup, but for the price and ease of making, very impressed
Crimson ghost th-cam.com/video/i4dPWIhFxTo/w-d-xo.html 😉
@@LifeofBliss You don't get a better sound, just more highs, that TB sings and has 3D that is hard to match by 2-3 way
I built a set of ported boxes using these drivers. I made mine taller and narrower. Driving them with a Marantz SR7015, I set the crossover to the subwoofers (3 - 12" ported) at 80 hz. They sound amazing especially after Audessey correction. To my ears they compare favourably to a $3000 MTM pair that I own.
They are a very nice driver imo, super clear sound and fair very well against speakers much more expensive
Tang band has some beautiful coaxial drivers out now too.
I tried contact cement for veneer once and then switched to using wood glue and an iron. Wood glue is just so much more pleasant to work with.
Check out the PRV 10" full range drivers on PE, 100dB, I dropped them in some old 1.8cf Vega boxes and they sound amazing and with real bass. I have 2 other great pair of speakers but can't stop listening to these.
Awesome project. Great work on your video man. Parts Express guy here also!
Thanks man!
🙏🙏🙏🙏👍🏼👍🏼❤FANTASTIC👏👏👏👏You done just fantastic job.verygood craftsmanship.From India,I'm totaly satishfied to see this video.welldone.Thankyou.🙏🙏🙏
Great job as always! They look great and I love the ratchet strap tip. I might just use that on my next build. You may consider making a small baffle step compensation circuit to help level out the bass and mids with the highs. I think you'll see you'll want one once you hook up the microphone to it. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks man! I'll look into that at some point... Btw I used one of your videos on adding a speaker into WinISD in one of the cards. I just barely touched on it and you have a good video on that already 😉
@@LifeofBliss man that's awesome to hear. I'm glad that video was of use.
made similar. you would need a circuit for baffle step loss to attenuate the highs and mids. nice work
The Jasper Jig is defiantly speaker builders best friend. I cringe at the idea of using a jigsaw anymore, that's soo highschool haha
The veneer first try worked out well, they look awesome.
thanks! from a to b! Even with explaination how the tools work. :) great
Excellent video. Did you say that was your first time using veneer? Wow, you did an excellent job. Only thing I would change is I would go ahead and solder the cables to the speaker. It would only take a few minutes and you've done everything else well, so why not use the best connection to the driver that you can. (minor difference, I know). Great job and thanks for sharing.
Speakers: $200
Gear to make the speakers: $700
Making your speakers yourself: "Priceless"
(Sorry, I couldn't resist) 😎👍🔊
Thanks man. Yea I may go back and solder those... but yes, first time using veneer. Really enjoyed the process and how they came out!
Awesome job dude
I've done many book shelves, nice job. To make those stand out (yeah I heard ya on spikes ;), if you get the machined aluminum 1 or 2" spikes WITH round concave feet for the spike to stand in as to not scratch your surface. Just need to put rubber isolators on those concave spike stands to not have aluminum to surface contact. Hope that makes sense. It completely changes the look of the book shelf speaker... cheers Like placing the spike inside a concave nickel or quarter and flat on the bottom.
Thanks man. Yea I've put spikes on some towers and center channel I built in the past from PE with those disks on the bottom. They are both awesome and a pain lol. Those rubber pads are just super easy...
@@LifeofBliss Coolio. But just think what those little guys would look like sitting on 2" killer machined spikes, night and day. It aint no pain! 4 holes and thread inserts. Hell they even have push in self locking certs! No Pain... NO GAIN lol. Take care!
@@CreamyCornCob 😂 spikes do look nice... I'll give you that. I just think about anytime I had to move them and took forever to position the feet! 😉 maybe on the next build. I have 2 sets in my spare parts box actually lol
good job !!!
excellent !!!
beautiful !!!
Looks great Kyle! As always keep up the good work!
Appreciate it man!
Love the vibe brother and very well done video thanks for the detailed information
Thanks bud 🤜🤛
Skills. Looks good.
Saaaweet!!!
Bonus points for dance moves too.
He's got some moves... unfortunately he wasn't showing his best for the camera lol
Looks very nice!
Bravo. Great work!
Excellent, thank you
Veneer looks great
Thanks bud
Thanks for the really detailed explanation. It is going to be a big help for beginners. I just have a question that I couldn't find from below. I saw you have good amount of insulator stuffed inside the enclosure. Are those occupied spaces going to move the frequency you wanted? or Can we just ignore it? Please let us know your thoughts. Thanks,
The foam inside the enclosure is to help damp the sound waves inside the cabinet so they don't bounce back and hit the back side of the speaker, causing distortion. It doesn't take up any airspace as its breathable.
Beautiful build as usual!
Thanks bud. I gotta check out your recent sub build soon... those are always fun 😉
nice speaker good work box mdf ...good my friend
Really nice work.
You do some good work man!
Thank you sir
I feel like not only is that foam really dense and is acting just like the MDF sidewalls would initially, but also very space consuming and change the volume of the box? Am I wrong in this assumption? I’ve been wrong before lol 😂 I’m eager to see those graphs. I do have to say that the Venere job is flawless and to be honest I haven’t seen another DIYer even come close 🤙🏼 keep up the good work
I agree with that volume changing foam. Does the linear levels match what you thought after listening?
It's not super dense foam. Just like a mattress topper or polyfill, it shouldn't reduce the perceived volume for the driver. From what I understand, it should actually slightly increase the perceived volume of the enclosure as it makes the air more dense. It's a pretty common material used in enclosures. Appreciate it man, it was my first time using veneer and I'm very happy with how it came out!
I still need to measure everything with REW and see how it graphs. That will be in the upcoming video for sure
Hi,you put great care of making your project look good,(and it does)
I would like to add a few suggestions to make it SOUND better (this is to inform,not to criticise)
1) THe inside of the speaker hole should de rounded (with your router) apparently,it reduce distortion.
2)You should never mount a speaker flush with a cabinet,it promote edge diffraction.
You could glue a black felt fabric on half the front panel and put the speaker over it.
3)Foam lining inside the box,is good,but you don't need to put some on all sides,just one side and the back face is enough,putting to much, robs you of volume.One type i use is for shipping,its has a wave pattern on the surface,its better for dispersing sound.
4)Foam is to prevent standing waves but you still need a damping material.
I use sheep wool at 1 pound per cubic feet (if you can find some) pillow foam is ok as well.
5)Wood screws and mdf don't go well together,they will get loose over time.
You could use a bolt and a T nutt(i think its called).The nut looks like a washer with spikes .You pre-drill all the speaker holes,put the board in a vice with the nutt,add pressure,the pressure will drive the spikes in the wood.When you install your speakers,the screws will never loosen and you can take them out,put them back in as many times as you wish,they will always hold.
Bye.
Lucien
Mounting flush mitigates edge diffraction, as the edges of your driver’s basket are no longer the point of resonance for those waves. Adding damping material does not rob you of volume, if anything it will increase the volume the driver “sees” as you are basically decreasing the speed of sound inside your enclosure as the sound now must travel through all the fibers of whichever material you’re using. You are totally right about the T-nuts though, that’s a super good tip that I don’t think enough speaker builders use
Hey man, appreciate the tips! I don't know if I agree about the flush mounting, from what I've read I think it's supposed to help with edge diffraction... The foam should actually increase the perceived volume like the comment above said. I may go back and add some polyfill later after doing some measurements though. I really don't like MDF with screws either. I haven't had issues with smaller drivers like this, but subwoofer builds I've had some issues... I've had to tape the back of the hole off, fill it with wood glue and saw dust, then redrill a mounting hole. Not fun lol. Appreciate the comment, always something to learn with this sort of stuff!
@@criven3128
1)I disagree with you on the point of edge diffraction.I am not sure you understand what edge diffraction is.When air waves escape from your box,some of it,at the edge of the box, will bend and try to stick on the face of the cabinet.This bending effect cause edge diffraction or some call it edge distortion.By using a felt
material on the box front plate,the sound wave is presented with tiny hairs standing up witch minimise the sticking effect,witch reduce edge diffraction .The sound wave don't see the edge anymore.(To a point)
The magazine SPEAKER BUILDER,had many articles on the subject.Or look at very very expensive speakers,you will find many that the drivers are mounted outside the face of the cabinet.
Over the years,it looks like 50% of people involved with speaker desing,will say flush mounting is good,the other half will say its not.
2)Foam material will rob you of volume if its to thick and to dense.Open cell foam should be used.(You can blow air trough it)
4)Damping material (some kind of wool,Polyfill is a good start.) is used as a damper,to prevent your speaker from oscillating when its not supposed to.(Like the shock absorber on a car).It will contribute to reducing standing wave reflections.It will also prevent your speaker cone to over travel on a high peak signal,thus,protecting it.(To a point)
lucien pellerin my understanding of edge diffraction differs a tad. Because individual drivers can never be perfectly directional and generally produce sound in all directions, when the driver produces any given frequency, that frequency will travel out in a radiating pattern from the driver’s basket. Those waves will then propagate across the baffle to the edges, and if those edges aren’t rounded over or chamfered, those waves will use the corners on all sides of the baffle as a point of emittance, emanating from the baffle and causing peaks or dips in the frequency response that correspond with the width and height of the baffle. Very little outside of subwoofer design in loudspeakers production actually has to do with the “movement” of air, as a loudspeaker doesn’t actually move the air as much as it vibrates it. Flush mounting a driver simply gives those vibrations a longer distance to travel, making it more difficult for high-frequency energy to travel to an edge and use that edge as a point of emittance. It also gives the builder the option of rounding over or chamfering the baffle, which provides an even more linear response as the easier path for the waves is to simply follow the curve of the roundover into the sides of the enclosure, eliminating most if not all chance for baffle diffraction.
@@criven3128 that was my general understanding as well, which is why I rounded over the sides of my home theater speakers. I wasn't able to round these due to the veneer process...
wow! great finish work! Thank you very much for this helpful video.
I am kinda noob in this and I have some questions, do Full range speakers like those need an amplifier? if it is possible to run them on my desktop computer with a 3.5mm jack.
and what's the difference between crossovers and amplifiers? I haven't found specific answers on the subject.
and if it is worth making just one speaker (mono) as a bookshelf speaker just for everyday listening (I'm not an audiophile). in the purpose of simplicity and reducing costs.
Hi! great video! I'm looking to get small surround as i dont have much room. I have a small 6'' deep table behind the couch that the surround would go on. I know not ideal placement, but would they work as ''near feild'' surround ?!
You could definitely use these for rear surrounds near field. If you are looking for something to build, this would be a good project. But you may save a little money by buying a smaller 4 or 5.25 inch 2 way speaker from OSD Audio, Klipsch, or something like that.
Never thought I'd be jealous of another mans veneer, yet here I am.
We've all been in awkward situations... 😉
🤣🤣🤣
Awesome man, great video
When using software for finding a cabinet volume and port one needs to put in the future crossover coil resistance and cabinet volume damping. Your foam changes this volume? so such calculations are mostly irrelevant when you measure real enclosure parameters.
Better use some sort of wool placed closer to the center of the cabinet or along the rear wall. The foam usually makes virtual enclosure volume smaller and the wool makes it larger.
foam does not change volume
Thank you!
Yo Life of Bliss, what up!!!
Damn those speaker sounded louder and clearer than I expected for a small full range. The finish is on the money too. I can't do stuff like that so I just Duratek my speakers, since I'm a dj after all. In fact I even duratek'd my 3-way studio monitors. By the way, if you ever get the chance, I HIGHLY recommend the beston ribbon tweeter (Part # 277-112) for only $43. It is the sweetest, lightest, cleanest, smoothest tweeter I have ever heard. For that price you can't go wrong.
And yeah I love Parts Express. I buy almost all of my speaker parts from them. But anyway, now that you've covered every part of your audio needs, what's next???????
Thanks man! I really want to do more building, I'll keep that tweeter in mind. I have a few more amps in for review. And I am only using 3 of the 4 channels on that Sinbosen amp. I have a plan for that though as soon as it warms up a bit... 😁
Полезное видео. Благодаря вам увидел как можно вырезать круглые отверстия и заказал себе приспособление для резки круга для врезного фрезерного станка
Look great. The most important question though is if your dog is part boxer?
Thank you. She is in fact all boxer. Runt of her litter, a little smaller than most. Great pup
@@LifeofBliss I have a brindled boxer as well. She is a rascal but we like her :) postimg.cc/HJDKjdPh
Hola, excelente trabajo. Se ve muy bien hecho y parece que el sonido es muy bueno de acuerdo a tus comentarios. ¿Cómo se sigue desempeñando?
Una pregunta: ¿Qué opinarías del modelo de Tang Band: Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver 8 Ohm?
Gracias y éxito en todos tus proyectos.
And we suddenly realize how much some high end brands are making!
WHAT IS FULL RANGE? Does this mean a speaker that can produce highs,midst and lows in one unit correct?
@@TheMessenger212 Yes, exactly..
Great build! They look and sound amazing. Excellent content and hard work, keep up the great work!
Question:
1)can you put an extra tweeter below the speaker?
2) can you put the port in front instead of the back?
Sure. You'd need to add a crossover at that point for the tweeter. I'd probably use a different woofer at that point too
guru of the cones...
Nice building skils! :)
Possibly a better driver for the money is MarkAudio CHR70.
I think it will outperform that TangBang without breaking a swet. Hopeing to set an itch for a new build :))
Thanks man! I'll check that driver out.
Even Alpair 7 is not better, why do you recommend when you have no clue?
Even Alpair 7 is not better, only in HF, why do you recommend when you have no clue about components, you don't "think".
Hey man. I have a lot of car speakers laying around. Can I build something like that? I understand the big issue is impedance but not sure if something increases ohms or something like that
Sure you can build something very similar. I'd try to find the T/S parameters and play with winISD to see what sort of box/port options look the best
Do you have a table saw extender set on im not sure what there called but they basically make your table of the table saw bigger do you have one or did it come like that?
I made an extension table that bolts on to the back side. It was a custom thing I made. There are a few articles on it online if you search the specific model for that table saw
Nice work
One thing, is that final finish scuff buff and polishable?
There are ways to polish polyurethane. I personally havent. This was a semi gloss finish as well. But after searching, there are ways to polish it
Great vid, question tho, did you take it to account the dampening foam for your enclosure volume ?
The damping material does not take up volume in an enclosure. It actually has the opposite effect and gives the enclosure a perceived larger volume for the speaker
Full range drivers still need a filter inside to compensate for baffle step sound rise due to the width of the front baffle. This will provide the perception of more bass because the overall response will be more balanced top to bottom.
It needs an equalization in the mediums too.
@@MrZona93 Yes correct, that is what baffle step equalization will do. It will lower the midrange to bring the mids in line with the bass.
Tang Band W5-1611SAF
You should try a Neutrik SpeakON connector on your next build.
Yea those are great. Used those on my home theater speakers and subs. Got a few videos on those as well
@@LifeofBliss No sooner had I written this when I went back to your Home Theater build and saw you using the SpeakON.
Great job! Would this work well to make the same thing with 8" drivers? I want more full sound for a living room environment. If you know of a kit for a simple 8" full range that would be great I don't have a table saw or router
WHAT IS FULL RANGE? Does this mean a speaker that can produce highs,midst and lows in one unit correct?
Correct. Usually they won't produce the extreme upper and lower octaves the best, but they do a decent job for a 1 speaker solution.
@@LifeofBliss what if I had a full range, a mid range and a tweeter in one box would that make it better 🤔 I'm doing a super studio monitor myself instead of paying $6,000 for a pair
@@TheMessenger212 not a great idea. You'll get a lot of cancelation between drivers if they're playing the same frequencies. You'll want a woofer, mid, and tweeter, or a woofer/tweeter. Then you'll have to make a crossover network to send the correct frequencies to the different drivers. You may look into kits available to build that have all of the drivers and crossovers already picked out. Diy sound group or meniscus audio are good places to look into
@@LifeofBliss thanks for the info any 3 way crossovers you think are good I need strength 💪 too any ideas ??
TIP: cut your driver holes before you cut your final fronts (baffles) you will have a larger piece to clamp to cut, and easier to rout, or use a jig saw
Sorry i have a question: is it possible the same configuration with the bass reflex front?
PS: good video and good job!
Yes it is. I wanted more of the qood grain up front, so I did the port in the back
@@LifeofBliss thanks!
It looks better than off the shelf speaker
I prefer to cut my holes and recesses before assembly in case I mess it up.
Same here. I've always painted things before this. I always make test cuts before doing my baffles, I just think with veneer it would look cleaner if I cut the holes after applying it. Definitely would suck if you messed up at that point though 😅
Where’s the baffle step and filter design part? The final design will be 3-6 db shy in the low midrange and bass otherwise
Great to see how you did this. Have to say though, YT ads every few mins is so frustrating. Their doing not yours im sure.
Yea they put ads in there automatically. I sometimes move the times, but just had them place it on this one 🤷♂️ glad you liked the video though!
@@LifeofBliss I know mate, they are adding so many it's a pain. Yep really enjoyed the video, well done and thanks
Perfect 👍👍👍👏👏👏
which woodfiller please?
WHAT IS FULL RANGE? Does this mean a speaker that can produce highs,midst and lows in one unit correct?
Wow mandella effect i always thought it was Tang Bang, they come across sounding great very punchy for a 5"
Ha same here, for years. Then I looked at the name closer and was like oh...
SUPER SIR
Nice!! 🔥
Wow I can feel the premium sound quality in my $8 earphone 😂
Hey man, I love your videos! I have a suggestion for you. What do you think about rating and/or ranking DIY kits? There’s no one out there doing it, and you have the abilities and the following to make it happen. I myself am looking at DIY kits from a ton of sources, and it’s difficult to make a decision, since they all have different strengths, and no one is out there comparing them.
Just a suggestion. Keep up the great work!
Thanks man. I would LOVE to do more DIY kits and test them out. Problem is time... Time to make and finish these speakers to my standard (I try to make things look decent for my skill level 😉) gets a bit time consuming. And the cost on some kits would add up if not given to me by a company for some sort of build and review. I'll definitely keep trying to pump out some fun DIY speakers, kits and custom, but they'll probably only be a few per year. Thanks for the feedback sir!
Life of Bliss , if people are interested in reviews of DIY kits, let them send in their finished pair to you for review. Would be similar to what GR Research does. He has customers sending him their speakers for measurement and tuning. No need for you to tune something. Just a basic measurement of frequence response and distortion level. And putting the focus on listening impressions. After some reviews done, the DIY interested can choose a concept to build his own new speakers. (my english limited, i di stop now)
If you stuff the enclosure with foam wont that cause the speakers muffle.. should the speaker need to breathe I was told that you should never put anything in your speakers because it will soak up the sound waves
As long as you aren't stuffing things around the voice coil or spider, the speaker can "breathe" fine. When speakers move, sound waves are produced both outside the box and inside the box. You don't want those waves on the inside bouncing off the walls and hitting the back of the speaker cone. This will cause distortion as it effects the movement of the cone. You want something breathable such as foam, mattress topper, polyfill, or insulation to absorb those waves. Air space is not effected with t hise breathable materials, and actually adding some sort if filling will usually give the enclosure a larger perceived volume as it makes the air more dense to move
Is there a Canadian version of parts express?
Does parts express not ship to Canada? I'm not aware of what's available there if not
Life of Bliss I was just wondering because of duties and shipping prices are really high.
@@SkittlesScott ah I gotcha. Yea hopefully someone will chime in for you as I'm not sure man
solen.ca/
✌️
I built a pair of speakers with these. I find the mids and highs very dissapointing. Like they are playing from behind a thick curtain.
Really? I thought they sounded pretty clear, but a little laid back. Not very bright speakers. But overall a good sound. Little EQ to bring the bass up and they've been good for me.
@@LifeofBliss I have 5 of them, at first I thought I had a bad one but they all sound like that. Tried 2 different amps just to make sure. I have to dial in a shelf of 6-10db from about 10K with a parametric EQ to get some clarity in the upper range.
@@NicB-Creations You need to point them at your ears, sweet spot is the narrowest possible. Mids are one of the best regardless of price, highs are not great even directly pointed at the ears
You're damping the standing waves. Damping, not dampening ;)
Dammit... I know that too. It's just so hard not to say dampening for some reason lol
@@LifeofBliss I knew ya knew it, its a habit to break. I broke it 30+ years ago. So when you hear it, it makes your underwear into impossible wedgies! Just inbed in brain, DAMP and DAMPING! Never Dampening. YOUR NOT wetting anything! heheh
@@CreamyCornCob you say that.... but I'm pretty sure my son's diaper was more wet after his dance moves 🤣😂
Is it possible to use full range woofers in a 5.1 home theater build? I have a relatively small basement space, about 120 sq. ft, (10x12) and low drop ceiling (8 ft) so I was thinking that using coaxial or full range woofers would work pretty well. Building large front towers or a really large center, and surround speakers would be a bit intrusive. Any quick tips would be very much appreciated.
Sure, its possible. Youll probably get better performance out of smaller bookshelf speakers though in a tweeter/woofer design. Take a look at DIY Sound Group, they have quite a few kits that are smaller and would work great
@@LifeofBliss Thank you for the information.
👍
those are kiw quality, why not making 45degrees andgles, you made it easy for yourself
nice wood work but high frequencies roll off...
Yea there are some compromises, but they sound great for the most part.
carefull, those speakers need more than hundred houres to get to the final sound. they will become fuller sounding and the bas will get deeper and more voluminous
Nice Speakers if i tryed to build a pair it would be a total Fail
why don't you just stand in full bicep pose?
Tried that. TH-cam took it down. They're really cracking down on gun videos...
How about making 3D printed speakers? Now wouldn't that be cool...
1)I disagree with you on the point of edge diffraction.I am not sure you understand what edge diffraction is.When air waves escape from your box,some of it,at the edge of the box, will bend and try to stick on the face of the cabinet.This bending effect cause edge diffraction or some call it edge distortion.By using a felt
material on the box front plate,the sound wave is presented with tiny hairs standing up witch minimise the sticking effect,witch reduce edge diffraction .The sound wave don't see the edge anymore.(To a point)
The magazine SPEAKER BUILDER,had many articles on the subject.Or look at very very expensive speakers,you will find many that the drivers are mounted outside the face of the cabinet.
Over the years,it looks like 50% of people involved with speaker desing,will say flush mounting is good,the other half will say its not.
2)Foam material will rob you of volume if its to thick and to dense.Open cell foam should be used.(You can blow air trough it)
4)Damping material (some kind of wool,Polyfill is a good start.) is used as a damper,to prevent your speaker from oscillating when its not supposed to.(Like the shock absorber on a car).It will contribute to reducing standing wave reflections.It will also prevent your speaker cone to over travel on a high peak signal,thus,protecting it.(To a point)
3) Your connecting posts should be in a recessed compartment,it will protect them and,possibly,your furniture behind them as well.
I can see your a speaker enthusiast,keep it up.
Bye.
Lucien
I have made that mistake with the terminal posts. Live and learn.
I like to put a roundover on the sides and top to help with baffle diffraction. But, that makes it harder to apply veneer.
@@DIYAudioGuy
Here is a suggestion:1) Use a large router bit (to give a 1 inch diameter circle ) for your corners.
2)Buy veneer without glue,use contact glue instead ,contact glue will never let it go.
3) Put a sheet of veneer much larger than the box,on the face,make it stick (use a roller)
When the face is well stuck,go for the sides.Cut out excess and speakers holes.
Wish you luck.
Bye.
Lucien
@@150551100 that's exactly what I do. I did it in my second ever TH-cam video.
Don't inspire me so much to make my own speakers. I'm thinking a sound bar.
No way you can build these for under $200, the veneer alone is at least 50 and speakers are 160 thats over 200 right there. binding posts, port tube, speaker wire, speaker gasket, wood to build the cabinet. come on man! Great video though!
Well not today in Joe Biden's America! Cmon man! 😂😉 couldn't help myself... but this was over 2 years ago, it was right at $200 for my supplies then. Veneer wasn't the best brand and I already had the mdf leftover from other projects. But really, you're talking like 250 today. The small parts don't cost much, mainly the drivers and wood/veneer are the bulk of it. Have a good one man
@@LifeofBliss thanks for your reply, do these sound good, I'm thinking of building a pair just like yours!
After a little EQ to bring up the bass, they sound great!
The highs are not clear
is it necessary to muscle pose throughout the video? Relax bro...
Per my analytics report, I see you've watched this video 17 times from start to finish. Like what you see eh? 👀
@@LifeofBliss I barely watched it once...I'd love to see your fake report.
Bro... stop it with the games. Just ask for my number already!! 🥰
@@LifeofBliss You seem fixated on guys being attracted to you and such...as though you are gay.
You seem to be commenting on guys' physic rather than watching the intended content of video... almost like your... 🧐 take the video off repeat bud. Give it a break already!