Chadwick Model Railway try using a fibreglass pencil /wet&dry paper to lightly scuff the surface which will reduce the light output. Then use Tamiya clear red/clear yellow over the top charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway You need these mate (20K) fit one inline with a 150 Ohm resistor, this limits the current, or you could use a function only decoder www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trimming-Variable-Potentiometer-Resistors-5-PACK-MANY-VALUES-pots-presets-UK/113977565528?hash=item1a8997a158:m:mdjUvN9N7kwwNXuMw4CE5Mg
I’ve only just started watching your Fine Tutorial Videos and can only say that you are an excellent Teacher. I served an apprenticeship in Electrical Engineering working for that (now alas gone) builder of London’s Omnibuses AEC and I attended college and studied City and Guilds. I later specialised in Electronic Intruder Alarms. Your standard of wiring and knowledge is Brilliant! You have awakened in me a desire now I am retired to build a modest end to end small layout. Keep up the Good work😇
Grat video Charli. I was a freight guard back in the 70s and remember those three lamps. We use to carry exter parafine in a bleach bottle incase the lamps ran low...also handy for lighting the stove when the coal was a bit damp Those were the days lol
Chadwick Model Railway Usually local pickup freight from Cambridge to Bishops Stortford, Cambridge to March, Cambridge to Ipswitch, Oil train From Stratford to Royston. Even a Sand train from St Ives to Cambridge. It was a good job
Just watching this again. I have recently discovered that Deluxe Glue ‘n’ Glaze , run along a wire held in place with tape, does a great job of holing the wires discretely and firmly. I use this technique when fitting Lamp, Cab Lights, and Firebox lights in my steam locos.
Charlie, FYI- what you refer to as croc clips, we call alligator clips on this side of the pond. Very informative video and I appreciate the insight into resistors and DCC.
Thanks Charlie. Quite enjoy your presentations along with a clear and concise explanation of how you progress various modeling tasks. I particularly liked your construction of the Peco/Wills Viaduct and will be commencing my own model allong your 'modified' guidelines. Thanks again.
Charlie, Once again you've done the hobby proud. I certainly would've got into a complete pickle with those cat whisker wires. However, yet again you have turned a tricky job into a masterclass which, like all your videos, is an absolute pleasure to watch. No phone calls or sneezes this time so well done on that! Charlie, we all think you're great and if you ever want to know what a true ambassador for the hobby looks like, simply find a mirror. All the best, stay safe & roll on Friday.
Ok! I was wondering what my next project would be. I’m very grateful to you Charlie because I don’t think I would have done such a good job had I not seen your video. Nice one once again! Tony
Brilliant video, you always make it so interesting and love your sense of humour, your videos keep me going in these very difficult times for everyone, great job well done.
Loved it Charlie. All Jim would have got from me is a box of broken guards van bits, some burnt out electronic components and the words "I've done as much as I can for now". Stay safe mate
Hurrah! Well done! It's remarkable that the circuit board was so cheap, capacitor included! Yes, it was at the expert level. Something that we can creep towards! Again thank-you for this warts-and-cuts-and-all epic! Very best wishes, John Courtneidge 😊
Another excellent tutorial Charlie. Particularly thanks for the comparison at the end with the McKinley video, which I’d already seen. All valuable information.
Stumbled across your channel tonight Charlie. Loved this video - it really has inspired me. At last somebody who has shown how to fit pickups to a model in an easy way! I fitted lights to a Hornby coach last weekend using a battery based kit, but the way you've done this brake van is really great! I felt the pain with soldering those tiny wires! Will have to binge watch the rest of your channel now! Love the presentation style too. Very calm and reassuring!
Yes, he would, but wouldn’t we lose our favourite TH-cam channel? Not to mention the enjoyment of meeting him on the exhibition circuit. Missed you last weekend, Charlie!
Hi Charlie, another great video and very inspirational as always. Not what I was expecting this week, so thank you. Continue to stay safe :) Best regards, Rob
Great job Charlie. It turned out nicely. The LED’s make it look very real. The little wires would drive me nuts. I like the idea of the circuit board for the LED’s. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Excellent work, and very neat soldering Sir! Thank you for sharing. I'm getting around to convincing myself to solder in DCCC DC lamps onto my A4's to start with - videos like this help a lot with very clear instruction, and why. Al.
Hi Charlie love the videos giving me some great ideas for my current project must admit like your light hearted approach as well ( we have all been there just no cameras) keep up the good work can’t wait till next Friday
Very enjoyable and has inspired me to do similar and buy 5 of the flicker free units. I can't afford DCC concepts prices though so will have to use painted LEDs. Well done and thanks for passing on your knowledge and expertise like this.
Another great video Charlie. Roll on my next "fix" next Friday ............. You are really helping us all get through this difficult period. Take care and keep safe.
Agreed but a touch of ambivalence. I love the videos. BUT every week charlie has achieved something constructive to his layout. With current restrictions one arm of our business has been suspended an that was my income that supported my railway so I'm not making progress but at least we get our weekly fix so I'm back to happy. Ha ha ha
Charlie your pleasant easy presenting style is so watchable and entertaining not to mention very practical and informative. Great tutorials. You should be on BBC.
Another great video Charlie. Those old freight guards were kept quite busy when working over multiple track routes. Traditional tail lamps had a bracket on the back for dropping onto the traditional vertical lamp bracket. The GWR and latterly the BR(WR) had lamp irons orientated the opposite way on freight wagons and locos, although many of these were altered in the 1960s and 1970s. If you look at the lamp brackets on a former Western Region 37 nose you will understand. On the rest of the railway the side lamps on a brakevan were orientated the same way as GWR tail lamps - so that the side lamps and tail lamp couldnt be mixed up. This was because brakevan side lamps contained red shades for when used as reds rather than whites.
Missed this one last week! Great effort to show how to light up a hack . . . well. van! How true; we don't often pay much attention to these running on the ends of our freights. Lighting them, as you've done here really makes them stand out. I may just start lighting mine up - but then, I would have to start thinking about interiors. . . . Thanks for the lesson Charlie. Really good job!
VE day and a Chadwick video - bliss. Just knew there would be bit of blood involved when I saw the scalpel!! 😅 As always a pleasure to watch and the lamp irons expertly added to the guards van. Cheers Euan
Chadwick Model Railway Many many years ago I use to be able to read the codes on resistors and knew what it meant. Now I just pay to get it done. That’s kind of why your episode is great. Thanks. This is not the first time you have done basic model railroading stuff! As you might say “Crack on!”
That's another little bit of railway operation standard learnt. Great tutorial and they look real smart in operation. I felt a bit sorry for Jim each time you exclaimed "it's okay its only Jim's", hope he has a good sense of humour.
Hi Charlie, I kept up for most of it, surprisingly. I think if I was doing it myself I could just watch your video step-by-step again and have enough to go on, except I would put some black card in the windows first before gluing it back up, not because it’s obvious but because you’ve shown us it needs to be done. Thanks very much for the lesson Charlie. It was both very helpful and impressive. Regards, Jim
Enjoyed the epic Charlie, I love that you always show your mistakes and offer up the corrections. One tip with the resistor clump, your general electronic supplier should have universal strip copper circuit board that you can cut to size and easily mount the resistors or other components on. This would enable you to connect wires to them easily and allow an amount of miniaturisation. The copper tracks on the boards can be cut with a knife and the board cut with a dremel slitting disc to size. Cheers and stay safe.
And, this does bring back some memories from my sea-going days. I got some breadboard kit parts at Radio Shack (RIP) and rigged up a gismo with LED in patterns on one side, and the wires and switches on the reverse. The tricky part was in wiring the combinations so they could be thrown with just one switch per each. And, thus, I could quiz persons on the Bridge UI (under instruction) on how to identify vessels at night based on the displayed running lights.
Green to green, Red to red, perfect safety go ahead - and all the other stuff :-) I remember doing my eye sight test for the MN, tricky as the lights got fainter and it became more difficult to pick out the colour differences.
What an epic, capacitor , resistors. Pardon the pun hopefully the brake van doesn’t reach a scale speed of 66 miles an hour because it will be transported back in time like a certain famous film. Great video sir.
Bang on very interesting sitting in the garden watching this celebrating VE Day with a nice bottle of cold bombardier thank you very much for another interesting video
Hi Charlie I so look forward to my Friday dinner and watching you perform,I knew it was a guards van and I can do the cut finger so that qualifies me as a beginner after that you could have been speaking in Dutch but I still enjoyed the video and the end result I am sure will please Jim.Great stuff as usual.
Bravo. A caboose by any other name is wired with as many thorns. US model railroaders often directionally wire a caboose, so that only the trailing lights illuminate. (When I was part of a club, I mostly built scenery, so my needs were different.)
Charlie, You have much more patience than I. Since I am in COVID lockdown at home, I think I will go out back to visit the chickens and collect the eggs.
My first job was in a garden centre in the aquatics section designing ponds and selling fish etc... We used to sell "black tack" as Butyl tape - it was for sealing joints in pond liners.
Wow, that is impressive. I think I have 5 or 6 N E Guards/Brake vans they would each have to a Bridge and the lamps. It could be costly. I will have to check the Piggy Bank . Thanks Charlie for an interesting video. I hope your thump will get better. Martin. (Thailand)
@@ChadwickModelRailway yep, at the moment im making an engine shed, i just need to wait for the track to arrive. Then the next project would probably be a town market or something like that :)
Hi Charlie... 11:32 Don't bother with the colour coded chart, just check them with a multimeter. A colleague pointed this out to me recently and I couldn't believe I hadn't thought of it before. Much easier than trying to decide if that's brown or red or orange or what not! Great video.
Another great presentation Charlie. Too late to change my wiring. Went DCC from DC a few years ago wish I had been able to see your presentation then I might have done things differently. Thanks for what you do. Ken Carter.
No! I have never thought of lighting a brake van, but I am very happy to watch you do it! - you'll make a better job of it anyway. While it may not be the best for detail I can see why older brake vans used to just have the handrails moulded on. Cheers
Hi Charlie, I use white paper on the inside windows, like the shades are pulled down, I also add an interior white led for inside light glowing through the window shades.
Thanks for another great video Charlie! I always find a damp sponge invaluable for keeping the soldering iron tip clean, and with a clean tip, soldering is much easier! Only just saw that you are the new video man at McKinley, and been watching these. Merry Christmas and have a great 2022!
Hi, you did very well, I found the tutorial entertaining. When you strip wire it leaves you with a hollow tube that can be used to colour code magnet wire (enamelled wire). The wire is a small enough diameter to easily thread through the tube. Also you could solder pigtails to the combined resistor wires as well as the anode magnet wires, this allows for proper soldering to the PCB. The wire should be soldered to the through holes of the PCB and the copper pads should be totally covered with solder.
Very good Charlie! Excellent video. (As for glues, I’ve never found a glue which does what it says on the bottle, except solvent polystyrene cement - plastic to plastic, despite their wildest claims).
Hi Charlie, another great video (98) hopefully I can start a layout soon following your tips. I think you should give a shout out on No.100 for your wife for all the mess you made on the patio 😂😂😂, seriously looking forward to more videos all excellent 👍
Hi Charlie, very interesting and certainly food for thought. Probably something that you wouldn't fit to all vans due to expense but would look great on a couple running on layout. Hope you're all ok, keep safe, regards Bobby 'T'.
Hi charlie. Yes i did enjoy seeing you struggle lol crumbs you took on something there mate had more wires than the G P O tower. Well done really enjoyed that .
Charlie, When I work with LEDs, I first connect them with a resistor box to , say, my 12 volt source, or whatever. I first set the resistor box dial up to a high resistance, over 30k say. When the led lights up, it most likely will be dim at that high setting. I then slowly start dialing the resistor box down until I see a suitable glow, but do not over drive the LED. I note the value on the box and substitute a resistor of similar value and I am done. I usually drive my LEds at about 20 ma, although they most likely have a forward current rating of 30 ma. It saves energy, the led is sufficiently bright, and runs a bit cooler and the lamp life goes up significantly. So lets say the led is rated for 3 volts at 30ma and you have a 12 volt source. R=E/I so R is (12-3)/.02 or 450 ohms. You need a 450 ohm resistor to drive a 3 volt led from a 12 volt source and have it consume 20 milliamps. You have to drop 9 volts across the resistor. Bob Schworm
When this started I thought I'd seen similar before and it was McKinley when they did one. But yours does look better with the one LED red back and white front.
Really enjoy your videos. Thanks. I too hate super glues, I use a wooden cocktail stick to dispense as nozzles small or large are a disaster. Sometimes a rubbery glue like bostix is handy for these sort of cases.
Hi Charlie, Another great and informative video about Guards van lights. It looked a fiddly job with all those wires to route to the inside of the Guards van. The only suggestion I have is about installing the capacitor. I would have cut the longer tail on the capacitor to the same length as the shorter and then insulated them with red and black wire insulation, then soldered the capacitor to the circuit board. Regards, David.
Really Nice job, Charlie. Fiddly but great end result. (BTW it is a 1000uF Capacitor, not a 1000pF, and is a reservoir/smoothing capacitor.) I am surprised you did not add "firelight flicker LED" to simulate the guard's stove lol!
Years ago you got an exploded view of a car or especially an engine so you didn't have to go crazy trying to figure out how it comes apart. I know instructions do cost the a lot of money for the manufacturer but - a little help , please.😁😁 Good job I've always liked lighted marker lights.
Charlie. Firstly. Thanks as ever for a good entertaining and informative video. Stay alive capacitor. Mentioned by another contributor as well. DCC, once bridge rectified, can peak be well over 16v (22v not uncommon) , 25v a better option particularly if using Tantilum capaictors, to get size down, as they have a habit of catching fire! You can get more complex and add Zenner diodes to keep it under control but then more components to get into a small place. 16V fine for DC only.
Great video picked up many pointers. On future projects you may consider using a 6 pin commoned resistor network (Rapidonline part no. 63-0300) soldered to a small piece of stripboard. This would save space as the LED leads would be soldered directly to the stripboard so the heat shrink sleeving wouldn't be needed. Also if using a 16v capacitor with DCC I would seriously consider fitting a 15v Zener diode across the capacitor. Look forward to your next video
@@ChadwickModelRailway That's the bugger: th-cam.com/video/xCu14xggC_E/w-d-xo.html though in the video the cover on the head was not attached properly (no front lights :( ) , but you can see the three in the back... I think I fried three LEDs after I had installed them and nicely masked with black paint. The model was partly made of 3D printed parts - two years before an industrial model was released (ÖBB 4010 - Transalpin).
Oh that British railway rule book I’m going to find! Looks a great source of info. Learned a lot from this Charlie so thanks for sharing! Really like how the lighting turned out on the brake van. Didn’t realise that dcc concepts made these lights. Might be a future project I think, Awesome work. Hope you and the family are keeping well, Clint
Reminds me of the days I used to drive that type of train when I was based at Kings Cross which, to me at least, was easier than doing what Charlie just did to that brake van. (I might try though) LOL
You can find Sectional Appendices plus other documents mainly for the north-east on the Limit if Shunt website. The website if the Barrowmore MRG also had lots of useful documents. All the documents on both sites are in PDF format.
Also found a copy of Charlie’s UK Head Codes and Discs from a US eBay seller of all places. US shipping cost more than the bid for the book lol! Just need a Bradshaw’s Guide now ;)
The capacitor used in your video is 1000uf microfarad. When testing your LEDs, use your multimeter in resistance mode to test without the resistors. The low voltage the meter outputs for test purposes through the probes will light the led safely when the polarity is correct signalling which wires are which +/- . One could also use a button cell like a CR2032 safely to test LED polarity without a resistor if you don’t have a multimeter. The resistor number could be reduced also by wiring the LEDs in series rather than parallel, doing this and checking resistance values to suit your model as you go. Hope this helps.
Hi Charlie. Epic indeed. Could you not just paint over the white LEDs to dim them a bit?
I don’t know. But I’m certainly open to advice on this one.
Chadwick Model Railway try using a fibreglass pencil /wet&dry paper to lightly scuff the surface which will reduce the light output.
Then use Tamiya clear red/clear yellow over the top charlie.
@@UndergroundEric Tamiya "clear smoke" might dim things nicely.
@@ChadwickModelRailway You need these mate (20K) fit one inline with a 150 Ohm resistor, this limits the current, or you could use a function only decoder www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trimming-Variable-Potentiometer-Resistors-5-PACK-MANY-VALUES-pots-presets-UK/113977565528?hash=item1a8997a158:m:mdjUvN9N7kwwNXuMw4CE5Mg
To be pedantic they are "brake vans". Just check the rolling stock register for your prototype.
I’ve only just started watching your Fine Tutorial Videos and can only say that you are an excellent Teacher. I served an apprenticeship in Electrical Engineering working for that (now alas gone) builder of London’s Omnibuses AEC and I attended college and studied City and Guilds. I later specialised in Electronic Intruder Alarms. Your standard of wiring and knowledge is Brilliant!
You have awakened in me a desire now I am retired to build a modest end to end small layout. Keep up the Good work😇
Thanks Dave, it’s comments such as yours that make it all worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, thank you for the video, great advice. The 5 levels of experience are Novice, Basic, Proficient, Advanced and Expert.
Thanks Philip, I’ve never really thought about the levels of experience with their descriptive titles. Regards Charlie
Impressive work Charlie. Wasn’t sure I would watch the whole thing, but it turned out to pretty gripping all the way.
That’s most kind Duncan.
Regards Charlie
Very nice, Charlie. "It's only Jim's..." cracked me up!
Wait until Jim sees it.
Grat video Charli. I was a freight guard back in the 70s and remember those three lamps. We use to carry exter parafine in a bleach bottle incase the lamps ran low...also handy for lighting the stove when the coal was a bit damp Those were the days lol
That’s great Andy. What type of unfitted freight did you work on?
Chadwick Model Railway Usually local pickup freight from Cambridge to Bishops Stortford, Cambridge to March, Cambridge to Ipswitch, Oil train From Stratford to Royston. Even a Sand train from St Ives to Cambridge. It was a good job
Smashing job. Definitely worth thinking about doing.
Thanks,
Bob
I’m pleased that you enjoyed it Bob
Just watching this again. I have recently discovered that Deluxe Glue ‘n’ Glaze , run along a wire held in place with tape, does a great job of holing the wires discretely and firmly. I use this technique when fitting Lamp, Cab Lights, and Firebox lights in my steam locos.
Thanks Robert, a useful tip.
Charlie, FYI- what you refer to as croc clips, we call alligator clips on this side of the pond. Very informative video and I appreciate the insight into resistors and DCC.
Thanks for the info PG.
Thank you Charlie for showing a project us historical types can use to improve our models too.
I'm so please that you enjoyed it David.
Fantastic video. Very well explained and great to see an duel DC/DCC project.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew.
Thanks Charlie. Quite enjoy your presentations along with a clear and concise explanation of how you progress various modeling tasks. I particularly liked your construction of the Peco/Wills Viaduct and will be commencing my own model allong your 'modified' guidelines. Thanks again.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard. Regards Charlie.
We love to watch you struggle Charlie, nice one!
And I love the challenge!
Charlie, Once again you've done the hobby proud.
I certainly would've got into a complete pickle with those cat whisker wires. However, yet again you have turned a tricky job into a masterclass which, like all your videos, is an absolute pleasure to watch. No phone calls or sneezes this time so well done on that!
Charlie, we all think you're great and if you ever want to know what a true ambassador for the hobby looks like, simply find a mirror.
All the best, stay safe & roll on Friday.
You’re too kind Simon.
Regards Charlie.
Charlie that was on the highest level of confusing as soon as you got it out of the box you lost me 😂😂😂😂❤️
I’m sure you loved it Robert, hopefully!
@@ChadwickModelRailway me too!
Ok! I was wondering what my next project would be. I’m very grateful to you Charlie because I don’t think I would have done such a good job had I not seen your video. Nice one once again! Tony
Thanks Tony, that’s very nice of you to say so.
Great video again Charlie, really look forward to Friday’s and a new instalment 👍👍
You’re too kind Kevin.
Brilliant video, you always make it so interesting and love your sense of humour, your videos keep me going in these very difficult times for everyone, great job well done.
Thanks Ralph. Stay safe mate.
Loved it Charlie. All Jim would have got from me is a box of broken guards van bits, some burnt out electronic components and the words "I've done as much as I can for now". Stay safe mate
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Roger.
Hurrah!
Well done!
It's remarkable that the circuit board was so cheap, capacitor included!
Yes, it was at the expert level.
Something that we can creep towards!
Again thank-you for this warts-and-cuts-and-all epic!
Very best wishes,
John Courtneidge 😊
Thanks John, I’m pleased that you enjoyed it
The bit about fitting pickups was great, I will be able to use that. Saves me having to figure out how to do it with copper strip. Good vid Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Peter.
thanks so much Charlie for a great tutorial on this subject I've been wanting to do this to a few of my own cars Thanks , Brian
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Brian.
Another excellent tutorial Charlie. Particularly thanks for the comparison at the end with the McKinley video, which I’d already seen. All valuable information.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Brian
Another nice job Charlie. I bought your soldering station and we’re getting along nicely thank you.
Good to hear that you like it Colin.
Stumbled across your channel tonight Charlie. Loved this video - it really has inspired me. At last somebody who has shown how to fit pickups to a model in an easy way! I fitted lights to a Hornby coach last weekend using a battery based kit, but the way you've done this brake van is really great! I felt the pain with soldering those tiny wires! Will have to binge watch the rest of your channel now! Love the presentation style too. Very calm and reassuring!
What a heartwarming comment Jon and it’s great to have you onboard.
great vid as always such a great inspiration to all people out there
stay safe , regards john
That’s very kind Jon.
Love this channel !! Charlie you would make a great t.v presenter on this kind of stuff , could listen all day
You’re spending too much time indoors!
Yes, he would, but wouldn’t we lose our favourite TH-cam channel?
Not to mention the enjoyment of meeting him on the exhibition circuit. Missed you last weekend, Charlie!
Another extremely entertaining video. So much fun to watch. Thanks !
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard.
Thanks Charlie for another excellent video.. What a great little project somewhat fiddley but what a difference it makes, well worth doing..
Thanks Chris, looking back it was quite good fun
Great vid Charlie, I really look forward to Fridays. Keep using that hand wash. Stay safe!
Thanks Bob, you’re too kind
Hi Charlie, great video, I’m so empressed with your patience and control, not rude word was uttered.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Thomas.
Hi Charlie, another great video and very inspirational as always. Not what I was expecting this week, so thank you.
Continue to stay safe :)
Best regards, Rob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Rob.
Great job Charlie. It turned out nicely. The LED’s make it look very real. The little wires would drive me nuts. I like the idea of the circuit board for the LED’s. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Hi Ken, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Your attention to detail is amazing. New subscriber here and binge watching your entire uploads. Keep up the good work.
Awesome, thank you Jason. Regards Charlie
Excellent work, and very neat soldering Sir!
Thank you for sharing.
I'm getting around to convincing myself to solder in DCCC DC lamps onto my A4's to start with - videos like this help a lot with very clear instruction, and why.
Al.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Alan.
Hi Charlie love the videos giving me some great ideas for my current project must admit like your light hearted approach as well ( we have all been there just no cameras) keep up the good work can’t wait till next Friday
I'm so please that you enjoyed it Stephen.
Great Video Charlie, Very imformative and you make it easy to follow
I think it was harder than it actually looked in the end.
Very enjoyable and has inspired me to do similar and buy 5 of the flicker free units. I can't afford DCC concepts prices though so will have to use painted LEDs. Well done and thanks for passing on your knowledge and expertise like this.
Glad it was helpful Clifford.
Another great video Charlie. Roll on my next "fix" next Friday ............. You are really helping us all get through this difficult period. Take care and keep safe.
Glad to help John.
Agreed but a touch of ambivalence. I love the videos. BUT every week charlie has achieved something constructive to his layout. With current restrictions one arm of our business has been suspended an that was my income that supported my railway so I'm not making progress but at least we get our weekly fix so I'm back to happy. Ha ha ha
Charlie your pleasant easy presenting style is so watchable and entertaining not to mention very practical and informative. Great tutorials. You should be on BBC.
What a heart warming comment oceanfroggie. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Great instructional video Charlie, thank you.
You’re most welcome Greg.
Really enjoying these videos! Great work. Cheers
Glad you like them Rupert.
Another great video Charlie.
Those old freight guards were kept quite busy when working over multiple track routes. Traditional tail lamps had a bracket on the back for dropping onto the traditional vertical lamp bracket. The GWR and latterly the BR(WR) had lamp irons orientated the opposite way on freight wagons and locos, although many of these were altered in the 1960s and 1970s. If you look at the lamp brackets on a former Western Region 37 nose you will understand.
On the rest of the railway the side lamps on a brakevan were orientated the same way as GWR tail lamps - so that the side lamps and tail lamp couldnt be mixed up. This was because brakevan side lamps contained red shades for when used as reds rather than whites.
Great info Phil, many thanks. Regards Charlie
Missed this one last week! Great effort to show how to light up a hack . . . well. van! How true; we don't often pay much attention to these running on the ends of our freights. Lighting them, as you've done here really makes them stand out. I may just start lighting mine up - but then, I would have to start thinking about interiors. . . . Thanks for the lesson Charlie. Really good job!
Glad you enjoyed it Pat, it's a taxing task though.
Great video Charlie, just up my street. The result is wonderful. A tricky eye straining job. Hope Jim liked it. Stay safe. Cheers Gareth
Thanks Gareth, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Brilliant work Charlie, thanks for the supporting cost and wholesaler info, it would be an interesting venture in N gauge!! Keep the videos coming.
Thanks Dave.
VE day and a Chadwick video - bliss. Just knew there would be bit of blood involved when I saw the scalpel!! 😅 As always a pleasure to watch and the lamp irons expertly added to the guards van. Cheers Euan
Thanks Euan.
Charlie: Another good video. Made the electronics do-able. Like the way you explain and showed “How to do it!”
Thanks Ken, what a lovely comment.
Chadwick Model Railway Many many years ago I use to be able to read the codes on resistors and knew what it meant. Now I just pay to get it done. That’s kind of why your episode is great. Thanks. This is not the first time you have done basic model railroading stuff! As you might say “Crack on!”
Wow that's quite good, I think once I've gotten my new layout a bit more completed I might give that a go myself
Good for you mate.
That's another little bit of railway operation standard learnt. Great tutorial and they look real smart in operation. I felt a bit sorry for Jim each time you exclaimed "it's okay its only Jim's", hope he has a good sense of humour.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Rob. I'll see if Jim has watched it yet.
Charlie ... a middle-aged man going on five or six! That was some excited, infectious grin!
Can you blame me?
Hi Charlie,
I kept up for most of it, surprisingly. I think if I was doing it myself I could just watch your video step-by-step again and have enough to go on, except I would put some black card in the windows first before gluing it back up, not because it’s obvious but because you’ve shown us it needs to be done.
Thanks very much for the lesson Charlie. It was both very helpful and impressive.
Regards,
Jim
You’re too kind Jim.
Love your work Charlie!
Thanks CRL.
Charlie, some mouthfuls there good job you had your teeth it! A fiddley job, well done.
Fiddly, it was a nightmare!
Superb video Charlie, that looks excellent
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Josh, it was an interesting challenge.
Enjoyed the epic Charlie, I love that you always show your mistakes and offer up the corrections. One tip with the resistor clump, your general electronic supplier should have universal strip copper circuit board that you can cut to size and easily mount the resistors or other components on. This would enable you to connect wires to them easily and allow an amount of miniaturisation. The copper tracks on the boards can be cut with a knife and the board cut with a dremel slitting disc to size. Cheers and stay safe.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Chris
And, this does bring back some memories from my sea-going days. I got some breadboard kit parts at Radio Shack (RIP) and rigged up a gismo with LED in patterns on one side, and the wires and switches on the reverse. The tricky part was in wiring the combinations so they could be thrown with just one switch per each. And, thus, I could quiz persons on the Bridge UI (under instruction) on how to identify vessels at night based on the displayed running lights.
What an interesting comment Mac.
Green to green, Red to red, perfect safety go ahead - and all the other stuff :-) I remember doing my eye sight test for the MN, tricky as the lights got fainter and it became more difficult to pick out the colour differences.
What an epic, capacitor , resistors. Pardon the pun hopefully the brake van doesn’t reach a scale speed of 66 miles an hour because it will be transported back in time like a certain famous film. Great video sir.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Stay safe,
regards, Charlie
Bang on very interesting sitting in the garden watching this celebrating VE Day with a nice bottle of cold bombardier thank you very much for another interesting video
You're too kind Kenny.
Hi Charlie I so look forward to my Friday dinner and watching you perform,I knew it was a guards van and I can do the cut finger so that qualifies me as a beginner after that you could have been speaking in Dutch but I still enjoyed the video and the end result I am sure will please Jim.Great stuff as usual.
I'm so please that you enjoyed it Robert.
Bravo. A caboose by any other name is wired with as many thorns. US model railroaders often directionally wire a caboose, so that only the trailing lights illuminate. (When I was part of a club, I mostly built scenery, so my needs were different.)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Charlie, You have much more patience than I. Since I am in COVID lockdown at home, I think I will go out back to visit the chickens and collect the eggs.
Now there’s a cracking job Dave.
My first job was in a garden centre in the aquatics section designing ponds and selling fish etc... We used to sell "black tack" as Butyl tape - it was for sealing joints in pond liners.
Great info and a great product too.
Hi Charlie, thank you for your another as always interesting and wonderful video! Best wishes Günter
Thanks Gunter, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Awesome Charlie well done that man!
Thanks SJ.
another great film I very much enjoyed it I will have to try this one out .When I get round to it
It was actually good fun. Do two at a time if you can.
Another great video Charlie. Makes me want to have a go now. Just need to save up the pennies !!
Don’t, there too expensive unless you have loads of guard’s wagons.
Amazing ! You earned that one !
Thanks NRM
Wow, that is impressive. I think I have 5 or 6 N E Guards/Brake vans they would each have to a Bridge and the lamps. It could be costly. I will have to check the Piggy Bank . Thanks Charlie for an interesting video. I hope your thump will get better. Martin. (Thailand)
Thanks Martin, my injury has healed but no pain no gain! (What rubbish). It was a soldering challenge mind you.
Stay safe mate, regards Charlie.
Really interesting! i might try to add lights to mine when I've finished some of my other projects
So you have too many projects to!
@@ChadwickModelRailway yep, at the moment im making an engine shed, i just need to wait for the track to arrive. Then the next project would probably be a town market or something like that :)
Hi Charlie... 11:32 Don't bother with the colour coded chart, just check them with a multimeter. A colleague pointed this out to me recently and I couldn't believe I hadn't thought of it before. Much easier than trying to decide if that's brown or red or orange or what not! Great video.
A good point Tom but not every viewer will own one. Having said that I do wish that mine had a continuity “beep”.
Very thorough👍
Thanks John.
Another great presentation Charlie. Too late to change my wiring. Went DCC from DC a few years ago wish I had been able to see your presentation then I might have done things differently. Thanks for what you do. Ken Carter.
That’s very kind of you to say so Ken, regards Charlie
No! I have never thought of lighting a brake van, but I am very happy to watch you do it! - you'll make a better job of it anyway. While it may not be the best for detail I can see why older brake vans used to just have the handrails moulded on. Cheers
I'm so please that you enjoyed it Davie.
Interesting Charlie....thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Thanks Jack.
Gota love how Brake van's / caboose's have all this free room for putting electrical guts into.
I’m so thankful HD.
Hi Charlie, I use white paper on the inside windows, like the shades are pulled down, I also add an interior white led for inside light glowing through the window shades.
That's a great idea Doxie.
Thanks for another great video Charlie! I always find a damp sponge invaluable for keeping the soldering iron tip clean, and with a clean tip, soldering is much easier! Only just saw that you are the new video man at McKinley, and been watching these. Merry Christmas and have a great 2022!
Thanks Gavin, and best wishes to you and yours too.
Another great video Charlie
Thanks Adam
Hi, you did very well, I found the tutorial entertaining. When you strip wire it leaves you with a hollow tube that can be used to colour code magnet wire (enamelled wire). The wire is a small enough diameter to easily thread through the tube. Also you could solder pigtails to the combined resistor wires as well as the anode magnet wires, this allows for proper soldering to the PCB. The wire should be soldered to the through holes of the PCB and the copper pads should be totally covered with solder.
Great tips Geoffrey.
1000 micro farrad capacitor. uF = micro, and pF = pico
PS. Love your videos as they give me heaps of tips, ideas and inspiration
Yes I did get a little confused there Bruce! Regards Charlie
Well done Charlie nice a good insite lovely mate. John from Chichester !
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John. Regards Charlie
Very good Charlie! Excellent video. (As for glues, I’ve never found a glue which does what it says on the bottle, except solvent polystyrene cement - plastic to plastic, despite their wildest claims).
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
Yes glue is definitely a sticky subject!
Hi Charlie, another great video (98) hopefully I can start a layout soon following your tips. I think you should give a shout out on No.100 for your wife for all the mess you made on the patio 😂😂😂, seriously looking forward to more videos all excellent 👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my video Simon. Take care mate regards Charlie.
Looking good like you layout and keep posting videos up and stay safe
Only if you keep watching!
Hi Charlie, very interesting and certainly food for thought. Probably something that you wouldn't fit to all vans due to expense but would look great on a couple running on layout. Hope you're all ok, keep safe, regards Bobby 'T'.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bobby
Hi charlie. Yes i did enjoy seeing you struggle lol crumbs you took on something there mate had more wires than the G P O tower. Well done really enjoyed that .
I'm so pleased that it made you smile Tony.
Charlie,
When I work with LEDs, I first connect them with a resistor box to , say, my 12 volt source, or whatever.
I first set the resistor box dial up to a high resistance, over 30k say.
When the led lights up, it most likely will be dim at that high setting. I then slowly start dialing the resistor box down until I see a suitable glow, but do not over drive the LED. I note the value on the box and substitute a resistor of similar value and I am done.
I usually drive my LEds at about 20 ma, although they most likely have a forward current rating of 30 ma.
It saves energy, the led is sufficiently bright, and runs a bit cooler and the lamp life goes up significantly.
So lets say the led is rated for 3 volts at 30ma and you have a 12 volt source. R=E/I so R is (12-3)/.02 or 450 ohms.
You need a 450 ohm resistor to drive a 3 volt led from a 12 volt source and have it consume 20 milliamps.
You have to drop 9 volts across the resistor.
Bob Schworm
Very interesting Bob. Did you buy the resistor box or build it yourself? Regards Charlie
see amazon - - - www.amazon.com/Elenco-RS400-Resistance-Substitution-Color/dp/B0002KX76W/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=resistor+box&qid=1605604823&sr=8-11
Thanks for the link Bob
Even though I've seen this on Mckindley Railway , I feel compelled to watch it on your channel too
It was different, we used magnetic switching at McKinley.
When this started I thought I'd seen similar before and it was McKinley when they did one. But yours does look better with the one LED red back and white front.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Norman.
Really enjoy your videos. Thanks. I too hate super glues, I use a wooden cocktail stick to dispense as nozzles small or large are a disaster. Sometimes a rubbery glue like bostix is handy for these sort of cases.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it oceanfroggie. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Another great and informative video about Guards van lights. It looked a fiddly job with all those wires to route to the inside of the Guards van. The only suggestion I have is about installing the capacitor. I would have cut the longer tail on the capacitor to the same length as the shorter and then insulated them with red and black wire insulation, then soldered the capacitor to the circuit board. Regards, David.
I think that you’re right David but at the time, as you do it, somethings just don’t occur to me.
Really Nice job, Charlie. Fiddly but great end result. (BTW it is a 1000uF Capacitor, not a 1000pF, and is a reservoir/smoothing capacitor.) I am surprised you did not add "firelight flicker LED" to simulate the guard's stove lol!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alec. Yes it was somewhat fiddly to say the least. Regards Charlie.
Years ago you got an exploded view of a car or especially an engine so you didn't have to go crazy trying to figure out how it comes apart. I know instructions do cost the a lot of money for the manufacturer but - a little help , please.😁😁 Good job I've always liked lighted marker lights.
Glue remains my main enemy.
Regards Charlie
Charlie.
Firstly. Thanks as ever for a good entertaining and informative video.
Stay alive capacitor. Mentioned by another contributor as well. DCC, once bridge rectified, can peak be well over 16v (22v not uncommon) , 25v a better option particularly if using Tantilum capaictors, to get size down, as they have a habit of catching fire! You can get more complex and add Zenner diodes to keep it under control but then more components to get into a small place.
16V fine for DC only.
A fair point mate.
Great video picked up many pointers. On future projects you may consider using a 6 pin commoned resistor network (Rapidonline part no. 63-0300) soldered to a small piece of stripboard. This would save space as the LED leads would be soldered directly to the stripboard so the heat shrink sleeving wouldn't be needed. Also if using a 16v capacitor with DCC I would seriously consider fitting a 15v Zener diode across the capacitor. Look forward to your next video
Thanks for the tips Graham.
Hi Charlie, really appreciate your channel. The worst I did LED-wise was fumble 6 LEDs into an N scale railcar head...
Blimey, that’s no easy task!
@@ChadwickModelRailway That's the bugger: th-cam.com/video/xCu14xggC_E/w-d-xo.html though in the video the cover on the head was not attached properly (no front lights :( ) , but you can see the three in the back... I think I fried three LEDs after I had installed them and nicely masked with black paint. The model was partly made of 3D printed parts - two years before an industrial model was released (ÖBB 4010 - Transalpin).
Oh Charlie I am having to go and lie down, my poor brain could not absorb what you have just done. I can feel a headache coming on. Cheers Greg
A bit of a challenge wasn’t it Greg.
Oh that British railway rule book I’m going to find! Looks a great source of info. Learned a lot from this Charlie so thanks for sharing! Really like how the lighting turned out on the brake van. Didn’t realise that dcc concepts made these lights. Might be a future project I think, Awesome work. Hope you and the family are keeping well, Clint
Clint, it’s comments such as yours that make it all worthwhile. Stay safe regards Charlie
Reminds me of the days I used to drive that type of train when I was based at Kings Cross which, to me at least, was easier than doing what Charlie just did to that brake van. (I might try though) LOL
You can find Sectional Appendices plus other documents mainly for the north-east on the Limit if Shunt website. The website if the Barrowmore MRG also had lots of useful documents. All the documents on both sites are in PDF format.
Found a copy on eBay for a fiver!
Also found a copy of Charlie’s UK Head Codes and Discs from a US eBay seller of all places. US shipping cost more than the bid for the book lol! Just need a Bradshaw’s Guide now ;)
The capacitor used in your video is 1000uf microfarad. When testing your LEDs, use your multimeter in resistance mode to test without the resistors. The low voltage the meter outputs for test purposes through the probes will light the led safely when the polarity is correct signalling which wires are which +/- . One could also use a button cell like a CR2032 safely to test LED polarity without a resistor if you don’t have a multimeter. The resistor number could be reduced also by wiring the LEDs in series rather than parallel, doing this and checking resistance values to suit your model as you go. Hope this helps.
Great tip on the CR2030 Steven.