The BEST Way to Smooth 3d Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2021
- The original video on this process! Everyone thinks they know the best was to smooth PLA 3d prints, but mine is a little different from most. It takes a tried and true method and a bit of chemistry but this way will definitely minimize the time you spend sanding and prepping your prints for paint. Which means more time for the fun stuff!
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Amazing results BUT glazing putty should only be used in tiny amounts, it continues to shrink up to a year. In auto body repair, its only used in areas thinner than a dime and no bigger than a stamp.
Good to know!
Wet Sanding is the secret sauce of smooth 3D prints. I've done filler primer, but never tried spot putty before. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the acetone tip!
You bet!
in my case, the shell is very thin, and is in an almost eggshell finish, so any sort of sanding won’t work. I’d also imagine that higher detailed pieces would be a proper pain to try and smooth.
Interesting technique. I discontinued use of the red tooth paste junk some time ago. I found for long term use it was too prone to cracking as it continues to shrink over time. If you have an HVLP setup I’d recommend heading over to your nearest automotive paint supply store and picking up some PCL poly primer. It’s essentially very very thinned down bondo you spray on with a gun. It stands like butter and covers beautifully and In most cases gives me a 95% complete finish after a single pass. I don’t think I’d ever use anything else ever again.
I’ve tried poly primer but my harbor freight hvlp gun didn’t spray it very well, so I went back to the red stuff. I may just need to bite the bullet and get a good hvlp gun.
@@VanOaksProps This stuff has changed my life. I still have a few tubes of the red glazing putty lying around if I need to do something quick. But this is my go to for large projects. I. ended up picking up an Astro Europro with a 1.9 nozzle specifically for spraying primer. It cost me about $100 and has worked a treat. Considering what my other two guns cost this was a steal. I also found I end up using way less material than with rattle can filler primer so it’ll pay for itself eventually.
@@evoFTMFW Hey dude, awesome idea. Bit new to this, do you use any particular type of poly primer?
That's your problem You were using it wrong It's Not supposed to be used for large areas it's supposed to fill in layer lines or small gaps if you want to cover larger areas you have to go with a body filler.
@@ray24051 no, you’re using it wrong. It isn’t intended to fill in layer lines or small gaps. It’s intended to fill pin hole sized defects in the surface. If you use it to fill layer lines it will eventually crack. Again, the stuff is junk. Use a catalyzed product.
Man! You never cease to amaze and improve on methods I already use. I've been trying everything that you named and then some. I literally just went out to the garage and tried this and I'm thoroughly impressed. Thanks for sharing!
That’s awesome! Glad i could add another trick to your bag of tricks!
This helped me out so much with my Nuka Cola bottlecap I made as a Christmas present this year. Thank you so much for making these tips and tricks videos based on your experiences making things. I hope you realize how much this is improving all of our props and knowledge.
Went into the archives for this one! Just got some teeny tiny part for my mando gauntlets and there's no way I'd make them smooth enough without using this technique. Off to get some acetone tomorrow! Thanks Vanoaks!
A great hybrid method to get the spot putty to flow better. I also liked using the thinner as a sort of sand paper.
Yeah, it’s saved me a ton of time
I was actually looking forward to sanding my current project to try this method out… it worked out really well… I felt Like it saved a lot of time and made the print lines almost disappear. Thanks Derek!
You can see the results on my full sized Vintage Figure style Star Wars blaster ;-) over in the Star Wars Room Builders
Hell yeah!
Good job explaining. As always enjoying your projects. Keep them coming.
Thanks 👍
That's awesome. I've got some detail pieces for my R2 that I've been struggling with. I'm definitely trying this.
Right on. Let me know how it goes
Your tutorials are super helpful! I don’t think there’s anyone teaching these methods on TH-cam
Thanks! Glad you like them.
Thanks for the tip. I'm working on a pit droid right now and I can't wait to try your method. If I do, it'll be in my build video and I'll be sure to give you a shout. :)
Give the people what they want! Informative and detailed as always Derek.
I try!
I love the acetone / spot putty trick, and will be employing it post haste....thanks!
You bet!
A very interesting technique, and with more applications than just smoothing 3D prints. Congratulations and greetings.
Thank you!
I'm a little late but I used this technique with a recent print I had done, it works like a champion, but some bits still needed a little straight Bondo to smooth out.
Its amazing how everyone has a different way! I have been using CA glue to get rid of the 3D marks specially on top of round parts...(i hate that) but it seems to work well. I've been meaning to try that bondo mix. Ill try anything once. thanks for video!
The result looks gorgeous!
Awesome idea! I justed used it on my Wrecker helmet. And was able to get it smooth in about 30 minutes.
That’s awesome!
Thanks for this tip! Going to try this tonight!
Let me know how it worked for you.
I am working on a large size Funko Superman 2ft tall and the gaps are HORRIBLE this is a HUGE help thank you!!!!!
Going to try it out. Currently building a halo EOD helmet and this will help out a lot thanks for info
No problem 👍
incredibly informative, thank you so much for making this! I'm just getting into using 3d printed parts for my cosplays and I'm definitely going to try this method
Beautiful job Derek!
Thank you very much!
Definitely gonna try this out on an upcoming 3d print ;-)
Go for it!
Bravo man, going to try this today!
Good luck!
I've seen the spot putty but not acetone. I usually use a wood filler thinned with water. The spray filler primer has been my go-to for a few years. Wet sanding is a step I never skip. I go all the way to 600 grit for my final pass. Might have to try the putty acetone trick. My problem right now with 3D prints is the warping in the sun ... think I need to change filaments.
The acetone trick was shown to me by another maker as a method for creating textures on their props. I figured I'd give it a go for applying spot putty and found that it was just the trick to get it fluid enough to lie down in the layer lines.
Warping will always happen in the sun if you leave it out too long and it can happen quickly, as I'm sure you've noticed. I tend to lean toward a hair dryer and then a long wait before sanding to ensure the solvents have flashed off and the primer is set.
Only 600?
A bit late to the party, but that kind of warping might be remedied by getting rid of internal stress through annealing/curing.
I never would've thought to use acetone, gonna try that. Thanks!
Happy to help
Cool! Seems like a very convenient method!
It's definitely a more economical method of applying the spot putty. Especially if you're not dealing with too many voids or high detail areas. Plus, I think having the acetone really helps the putty dry faster, so the wait time for reapplying is pretty quick...or at least it seems like it is.
Thank you for sharing your great idea! Definitely trying it
The acetone tip is a new one for me. Thanks!
You bet!
Thank you for this! It has helped me so much! I am still learning how to smooth 3D prints, so thank you ^--^
this is a pretty kickass technique! i'll definitely need to give it a try for my LARP props!
Thank you! This was great!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It was really helpful! Subscribed!
Very useful technique. Thanks for sharing. About to get my creality Cr-10 mini up and running. I'll be sure to use this technique for sure.
Right on!
@@VanOaksProps I'm brand new to 3d printing and while I understand that helmets can be sliced into sections to build with smaller 3d printers, I was wondering if you might happen to know what the minimum build plate size is for full size helmets (on average). I have the creality cr-10 mini which says it has a build size of 300x220x300mm. Would this be enough to print in 1 shot? Thanks for any help on this.
@@603VIL I'd say 400x400 to cover a range of helmets, especially if you're like me and have a large head size, but most people use 300x300 beds. Even with the 300x300 you may encounter a helmet or two that's just a bit larger that won't fit, so you're likely to have to split something at some point.
@@VanOaksProps thank you. One last stupid question: Is this something that I can figure out on the slicer software? For instance, can I adjust the build space on the software to my appropriate printer size, then import the file to see if I'll need to section it out?
There are no stupid questions here. This is definitely something you can figure out. I use Meshmixer to slice files and there’s a great video by Joel the 3d printing nerd (on TH-cam) that I found extremely helpful.
As for determining whether or not something will fit, just throw it into your slicer of choice (I use Cura) and move it around until it fits - often it means turning it 45 degrees. If it doesn’t, then open it in Meshmixer and cut it into pieces
Great idea VanOaksProps :P and thanks!
Great info!
Would that work with petg? Thanks gor another amazing tutorial!
Not sure how petg reacts to acetone.
Hi there! Out of curiosity, in the event of not being able to obtain pure acetone for this method - would an acetone based nail polish remover work as a suitable substitute or not be considered for intended use? Thanks in advance!
I've never tested it, so I can't say for certain.
Never would I have thought of that.
when your getting to the step to use the primer do you spray it, sand it and spray agin before the next sanding?
I just sanded a big part with a 320 grid and want to finish on the end with a 3000 grid and spray paint it so wondering it I have to use the primer every time before the next grid. And I understand you carry on with wet sanding with the next grids?
Not really. You can go up in grit until you’ve reached a smooth surface. Before your top color you’ll want to wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust and debris.
The additional layers of primer are added to aid in the filling of gaps or covering the surface of the part as a base for your top coat of paint to have something to bond with. But extra is only applied if necessary.
Really helpful bro!
Glad you think so!
I've heard and seen this technique on TH-cam a lot lately. I haven't tried it yet but I think I prefer it over the UV resin or filler primer spray. I'll have to try it with my J5 or raptor build.
Oh, FYI, thank you for the pool noodle fireplace video! I tried it and it worked nicely. Everyone who sees it loves it. I posted a shaky video on my channel. It looks good with a cheap oil scent flame thing and flicker lights. :)
Brilliant!!!!
Thanks! Tell a friend 😀
Tank you for the tip, unfortunately not an easy product to find her in Italy, can you suggest an alternative product available in Europe?
Thank you
I don’t know of any by name, but I’d search for “air dry spot putty” and hopefully you’ll find some options near you.
I LOVE this idea ... I am a bit fanatical about sanding and putty and sanding and primer and sanding and did I mention sanding? I will give this a try in my next project and I will be sure to credit you!!
Awesome! Keep up the good work.
@@VanOaksProps Thanks ... just tried this on a failed print and really liked it!
Looks great :)
Can you airbrush it after with paints?
Definitely
So curious,after two years, how is the finish looking? Is any of it shrunk or cracked?
No issues whatsoever.
with much finer details spaces you cant reach with sand paper is it worth using a dremel tool or something equivalent?
I’d go with sanding twigs. It’s too easy to overshoot the mark with a rotary tool.
nice video! :) good job! 😃
Would the same concept work for wood filler thinned with water ?
It should.
Would it be alright with a .600mm filament? would I just add less acetone to make it thicker to fill cracks better or just do it multiple times?
If you’re printing at that high of a resolution you may be able to just use a filler primer. The thinner your layer lines the less filling you’ll need to do. That said, with very thin/small layer lines you’ll want thin body filler, since thick wouldn’t get into the space between the lines that you’re trying to get rid of.
@@VanOaksProps alright, thanks.
Ooo I love the helmet! Where did ya grab the files?
Cults3d
Agreed. It looked like a Battlefront Desert Rebel Trooper.
What about all the grooves, nooks, and crannies that are part of the print? How do you avoid them being filled? Especially, with the filler primer? Thanks!!
You can definitely mask those areas, but honestly, most 3d prints could use some primer (filler or regular)
This is interesting.
I saw a vid on using the corn starch, resin method and it looked amazing.
But for some of us, we don't have any kind of UV curing box. So that method is out.
I saw yours and this looks interesting.
I wonder how it would look with a final coat of high gloss, metallic car paint, with that deep metallic look).
That's kind of what I am after.
This method is based off of autobody work practices and so it should get you that screen quality look you're after.
Really Great Idea.....
Thank you! 😊
What did you mix the solution in? My fear has been pouring that stuff into my plastic mixing cups and having them melt, or even worse, melt INTO the mixture!
I’ve found paper coffee cups work best. You could also use glass jars.
@@VanOaksProps thanks!
Will the acetone degrade the pla if i use it in this way?
Nope. It flashes very quickly and has no adverse effect.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Does it eat to much of the layer? For example on dental models which need to be as accurate as possible will it loose some accuracy?
It doesn’t eat anything. Acetone doesn’t melt PLA. It does, however, melt ABS.
Thanks I’ll give it a try
Would you happen to have some idea of how much of each you used in your mixture?
I don’t. You want it to be like gravy, but it just takes a splash of acetone to thin out the putty.
@@VanOaksProps Okay, thank you for answering!
Would this method work for deep printed lines or grid lines?
It should
I highly recommend a silicone brush.
What do you do if you have a lot of fine details that you can't putty and sand around?
Sandable primer (not filler primer) after sanding as best you can.
This video is UNMATCHED!!!
Thank you!
What it is Bondo in other countries? is a model putty or car putty?
I'm not sure, but it's an air dry spot putty designed for use in automotive applications.
Very appreciated@@VanOaksProps
Can you also use rubbing alcohol
I’ve never tried it so I can’t say.
What is the advantage over just several spray coats of auto filler? Time? Was just trying to understand the differences
Cost, dry time, ability to apply to a specific area, not an aerosol.
What grit of sandpaper do you think is best?
I typically start with 150 - 320 - 600 - 1200(sometimes). If there's a lot of issues I may go with a 60 or 80 grit.
I’m going to try this...
Let me know how it goes
i'll give it a try
isn't acetone aggressive to some kinds of 3D-Printing filament?
Correct. In my experience many makers use PLA filament which does not react to acetone. I need to update the description to note that point though. So thanks!
That's funny. I do the opposite... build up primer first, a few coats and the spot putty to get any area the build up primer didn't smooth over.
Depending on the layer height I flip between both methods. I think a lot of people tend to print at lower resolution to save time and this approach really shines at .28 or more.
@@VanOaksProps I'd have to agree. It's definitely going into my possibilities tool kit. Thanks for sharing 👍
Can Naile acetone be used.?
I believe so. I think they add fragrance to it, but it should be alright.
Do you know the ratio of bondo to acetone
I go by feel/look. Start with just a small splash of acetone and add more if necessary.
What grit sand paper did you use?
120 and 220.
How do you clean the dust off after sanding
I use a paint brush to knock off most of it, then wipe the whole thing down with isopropyl alcohol.
Can I use isopropyl alcohol instead of acetone?
I don't believe so.
What grit amount do you recommend?
I start with 160 and work my way up through the finer grits.
Is the acetone just to chin the putty? Or I'm missing something
That’s correct. When applied straight out of the tube it tends to be thicker than you actually need it and requires more work to get it into the print lines. By thinning it you’re using less putty and getting it into the lines much easier.
@@VanOaksProps I see, I'll have to try it. Thanks, excelent content
Does the acetone melt the PLA at all?
Nope. It only melts ABS.
I had the same question
2 in 1 primer + Filler spray can is the way.
That's definitely one way to do it.
Put your bush in acetone first and let the bristles well up a bit. They won't fall out as quickly.
Good to know!
What works best in terms of making sure the 3D print doesn’t deteriorate
It's tough to say without knowing the application. If it's a helmet or something, you'll want to make sure that you leave it out of the sun/heat because it's plastic and prone to melting. I always like to coat the inside of my parts, where possible, with epoxy to help give it more stability. Bondo/spot putty does a good job adding rigidity to parts but isn't a guarantee that it won't warp in certain conditions.
@@VanOaksProps mine is a replica of Madame Leota’s Headform made from PLA, I want to make sure it lasts long because I don’t think I’ll be able to replace it in the future
@@skinnyhimbo5835 I'd coat it in a thin layer of epoxy. That should help a lot.
It's too bad that some inventor doesn't make a sort of all-in-one spray that would fill in between the layers and auto-level. LOL
just use 2 part automotive primer the one with hardener it will fill 40grit sanding scratches with 2coats
That requires an HVLP setup though…
What type of material are you printing with? Doesn't acetone melt PLA plastic? Will it melt PLA plastic?
It’s PLA. Acetone melts ABS.
@@VanOaksProps so it melts PLA. Every other youtuber says it melts PLA?
@@apache-0verkill Acetone & acetone vapor melts ABS. Acetone mixed with spot putty does NOT melt PLA.
I know someone who does this with helmets and cuts his standing time down. I plain on using this too. Many projects wasted from not using this.
Throw a couple dabs of superglue on your brushes and no more loose/falling out bristles
Great tip!
I just use high-build plastic primer then a quicksand and enamel spray paint done
That definitely gets the job done, too.
I tried the exact brand on everything you used and everything ended up coming off when trying to sand my piece.
What grit sand paper? How long did you let it dry for?
@@VanOaksProps 3 to 4 hours of drying and 120 grit sandpaper
Hmmm. Hard to say what went wrong. Ideally there should just be spot putty in between the layer lines, since that’s what you’re aiming for.
Get the mix thin enough then use an airbrush to apply.
There’s no real benefit to it since you’ll need to sand it after applied. So you can skip cleaning (and potentially ruining) your airbrush and just brush it on.
I like my print lines 🤣
You're touching acetone mixed into the putty, but not wearing gloves? Is that safe?
It’s not ideal, but acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover. So it’s relatively safe in small amounts.
3:25 my hand looks like that too whenever I'm on the hub
🤣
Spot putty shrinks and cracks
Not in my experience.
I thought it said 3d paintings.lol
Ha! Nope.
what about high detail charachter !
You could still use it, but the truth is that high detail prints should really be done on an SLA (resin) printer. If that's not available I'd print your parts at high high of a resolution as possible and just use primer to help smooth out the layer lines.
So sweet ( Star Wars)
Thanks!