DrVax, I am new to 3D printing. I just received my ender 3 pro one day ago. what I am about to say(if you read this) I have never said to another man. I love you, yes , I said it. Your video's are amazing. I love the knowledge and kindness you present to us that helps those of us, who grew up in a different time, to continue to learn. Thank you my friend.
I just found the term ultrasonic cutter that a Chinese manufacturer suggested not your bare hands for cutting 3D printed parts! I am assuming an ultrasonic cutter would be a motorized mini Exacto knife so when you cut 3D printed parts it doesn't take much and you cut right through the support. I have quite a few printed parts in my plastic modelling hobby something I never considered how to clean up the parts. There is actually now products that don't need cleanup at all and done for you by the manufacturer which is best. Very helpful thank you!
Thank you so much, I 3D printed for the first time to get a custom sized item I needed for my garden & was very unsure about how to clean it up without affecting the integrity. You made this so easy to understand & I feel confident now that I won't destroy it. I may or may not have childishly made it glow in the dark when I saw the option, 100% unnecessary and 100% worth it 😂
I use Crystal Glass nail file. First I file roughly without water and then to get a smooth surface with water and light pressure. I have used it on PLA, PETG and ABS and it has worked well on all
Thanks for the comment. I will give it a try. I will be doing an updated video about finishing 3d prints in the future as a number of new techniques are available.
I use tough gloves whenever I use a knife to clean up a model because you may think you're smart with a knife, but there are usually very strange angles that you need to cut at. It's not like carving away at a stick where you can easily point the knife away from you.
wow this video is fantastic, it gave me a wealth of information, I never considered using my hot knife in this fashion such a great tip thank you for making this video
This helped me so much! I bought this pyrography tool that was great (for wood...) with alot of nibs, 30 watts and around 400+ degrees maximum. Just as you said it would miscolor all lighter coloured PLA. Also, it would give off a strong sweetish smell of burned plastic. I've looked so much for a guide on what WATT results in what heat but it seems impossible. Now I ordered one that can switch between 7 and 15 watts. Should be low enough.
Have you ever tried a ultrasonic knife (sonic knife, sonic blade)? IMHO the best way to clean delicate structures without the danger of overheating / melting the adjacent areas.
I thought I would use my hot knife a lot but in fact I use a side cutter more often and only use the hot knife for very small hard to reach cuts and cleanup.
I've been so engrossed this past year, trying to print these certain geometric shaped for this project I'm doing. Your tip about the ironing could very well solve a lot of the problems! Cheers, Dr Vax!
For removing supports I use a temperature controlled soldering iron which has all the attachment tips, works perfect. I think it's worth investing in premium tools that will benefit my hobby in the long run. Even heating a hobby knife blade over a candle will do the trick nicely if worried about melting or burning a print, I tend to go slowly especially when working with delicate prints. Great video.
Very interesting video, the hot knife looks interesting. However, bit confused about temp range? You say yours goes down to very low temps - sub 100c. I cannot find any that go lower than 180c, most are 200c. Looking at yours, it looks like a Fuyit tool that I see on Amazon UK (+/-5c up/down buttons, digital display)? That one appears to go down to 180c? I guess though, that if one puts the Exacto type blade attachment on, which you used at one point, thermal gradient on the thin blade will mean the tip is a lot lower in reality. I do have an Antex thermostatic soldering iron that goes down to 200c. I'm wondering if Antex do other tips than soldering tips. Might look around.
I am away from my computer now. I will update the link tomorrow. Thanks for pointing this out. Basically any “wood burning” iron with a blade will work.
Great video, I have the cross hatch layer that was from the support that is in a tight area, any advise for this. I don't want to use heat because it might damage the print (not surgeon hands here)
The link for the hot knife you used is dead.. I have been looking around amazon but it seems like the one closest to what you used starts at 300 degrees.. you said you can turn yours to 90 degrees. What model do you have?
This is the "woodburning kit" I purchased "46pcs Wood Burning Kit Creative Woodburner Set with Adjustable Temperature Soldering Pyrography Wood Burning Pen, Embossing/Carving/Soldering Tips". You can use any "solder iron" with an adjustable temperature that can use "knife style" tips. You want the iron to be able to go as low as the glass transition temperature of your filament. So for PLA this would be about 50 - 60C or 122 to 150f. Here is an Amazon search for the right thing. This is an affiliate link -- it helps support the channel -- at no cost to you. amzn.to/2PmNbCL Hope this helps. Irv
I suggest you to position camera at the bottom face of the surface that you were smoothening and at the top surace from you were scratching off the left outs of support. I could only see you operating the tool and not what it does to the surface.
For cleaning up prints instead of a knife or a hot knife/foam cutter i use a scraper made by the company MiNi they makes the TS-100/80 soldering irons. Its called a Viper scraper. Its made from damascus steel, is pretty AF and i use it for everything. Even taking prints off the bed. Its one solid piece of metal and comes with a ruby oxide whetstone. I can get it near razor sharp. Just don't drop the thing blade down. It takes forever to hone the ding out of the blade
I was hoping this video he mentioned how he printed the blue infinity cube (with or without support, what angle, how to clean up, etc.). Was a bit disappointed to see it on the table and having him not talked about it...
You dont need print so much big raft .. There is distances .You can print only 1 mm around object .No 5 cm :P Unless you are using a raft to support a tall object .
Thanks for sharing. Yes you are able to use a smaller raft, but if the purpose of the raft is to support an object with limited contact with the print surface I find a larger raft is more reliable. I do not spending a bit more time printing the raft to limited the possibility of a failed print.
I just switched to using kit.co for my links. I still need to find all the links in my older videos. This will take you to working links: kit.co/search?term=drvax
DrVax, I am new to 3D printing. I just received my ender 3 pro one day ago. what I am about to say(if you read this) I have never said to another man. I love you, yes , I said it. Your video's are amazing. I love the knowledge and kindness you present to us that helps those of us, who grew up in a different time, to continue to learn. Thank you my friend.
Happy, my videos are providing you value.
I just found the term ultrasonic cutter that a Chinese manufacturer suggested not your bare hands for cutting 3D printed parts! I am assuming an ultrasonic cutter would be a motorized mini Exacto knife so when you cut 3D printed parts it doesn't take much and you cut right through the support. I have quite a few printed parts in my plastic modelling hobby something I never considered how to clean up the parts. There is actually now products that don't need cleanup at all and done for you by the manufacturer which is best. Very helpful thank you!
I bought a cheap set of needle files for $4 from harbor freight to clean mine up. Works really great for getting into small areas.
I am new and researching 3d printing you vidio has taught me so much your videos are very informative and helpful so thank you so much.
I wish I had him for a teacher in school would have made it so much easier.
Thank you so much, I 3D printed for the first time to get a custom sized item I needed for my garden & was very unsure about how to clean it up without affecting the integrity. You made this so easy to understand & I feel confident now that I won't destroy it. I may or may not have childishly made it glow in the dark when I saw the option, 100% unnecessary and 100% worth it 😂
Glow in the dark sounds cool and doesn't effect anything in a negative way so why not? You made the right choice, am sure it's cool happy😄
I use Crystal Glass nail file. First I file roughly without water and then to get a smooth surface with water and light pressure. I have used it on PLA, PETG and ABS and it has worked well on all
Thanks for the comment. I will give it a try. I will be doing an updated video about finishing 3d prints in the future as a number of new techniques are available.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you, you share your knowledge with us so I hope I can contribute with something meaningful. So we can learn together forever :)
I use tough gloves whenever I use a knife to clean up a model because you may think you're smart with a knife, but there are usually very strange angles that you need to cut at. It's not like carving away at a stick where you can easily point the knife away from you.
wow this video is fantastic, it gave me a wealth of information, I never considered using my hot knife in this fashion such a great tip thank you for making this video
Thank you for making this video. Very useful information.
this hot tool with the 2 extensions you used is really useful
Thanks for the hot knife tip. It should definitely help with removing those pesky support marks underneath my prints.
This is a very good breakdown of common techniques, thank you!
This helped me so much! I bought this pyrography tool that was great (for wood...) with alot of nibs, 30 watts and around 400+ degrees maximum. Just as you said it would miscolor all lighter coloured PLA. Also, it would give off a strong sweetish smell of burned plastic. I've looked so much for a guide on what WATT results in what heat but it seems impossible. Now I ordered one that can switch between 7 and 15 watts. Should be low enough.
Great video! I'm new to 3D printing. This info is just what I needed. God bless.
nice tips.. that hot knife will gonna be useful tools for cleanup the pla thank’s for the tips👍🏻
Thanks Dad!
Great video! Thank you!👏🏾
what do you recommend to be used to remove that Haze that shows when gluing 3d prints together?
i really like the solder station with the mag glass. Could you give me a link?
Thanks
Have you ever tried a ultrasonic knife (sonic knife, sonic blade)? IMHO the best way to clean delicate structures without the danger of overheating / melting the adjacent areas.
I would love to try one but they seem quite expensive.
thank you for the tip, where can I get that Hot Knife?
Pick any “hot knife” on Amazon
Great info. I like the info and pace of your videos. Thanks Doctor - from a hobbyist newbie and my demanding toddlers.
Really helpful thanks
Thanks! Learned a lot...need a hot knife!
I thought I would use my hot knife a lot but in fact I use a side cutter more often and only use the hot knife for very small hard to reach cuts and cleanup.
Irv Shapiro, enjoyed the video and learned what I needed at this stage.....Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure
Great info!
Thank for these solutions, very helpful for me :)
Awesome! Great pragmatic how to advice
Thanks. Just be careful with the heat gun :-)
Thank you for the video. I think that the link to the Hot Knife is broken, please, could you tell me which model are you using? Thank you again.
Super good advice and I especially love the use of the hot knife. I have to get one for myself :) thanks and greetings nicklas
Thanks for the comment.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Hello what is the brand of hot knife you are using ?
Great video. What is the make and model of the hot knife you are using? Where to buy?
I’d like to know that too. Your link doesn’t work and I can’t find one with a low enough temperature on Amazon.
How do you clean those small litte spidey webs on cookie cutters?
What is the make and model of the hot knife. That link isn't working.
Do you know if the hot knife can be used on PLA wood filament?
I love your videos btw, very helpful!
Don't see why not. Just keep the temperature low enough so the wood does not burn.
@@MakeWithTech thank you a bunch for replying, and so quickly!
Thanks for the great advice!
Thanks.
if u want a bevel on the edge bevel it in the model before printing it
Hi what hot knife is it your using please
Thank you! This was a very informative video. I'm about to order a hot knife
Which hot knife? I can't find one with a low temp.
Brilliant tip about the hot knife, cheers Dr Vax!
Thanks. It does make life easier. You just need to get the temperature right. Make sure you buy one with an adjustable temperature.
I've been so engrossed this past year, trying to print these certain geometric shaped for this project I'm doing. Your tip about the ironing could very well solve a lot of the problems! Cheers, Dr Vax!
For removing supports I use a temperature controlled soldering iron which has all the attachment tips, works perfect. I think it's worth investing in premium tools that will benefit my hobby in the long run.
Even heating a hobby knife blade over a candle will do the trick nicely if worried about melting or burning a print, I tend to go slowly especially when working with delicate prints.
Great video.
Very interesting video, the hot knife looks interesting.
However, bit confused about temp range? You say yours goes down to very low temps - sub 100c. I cannot find any that go lower than 180c, most are 200c. Looking at yours, it looks like a Fuyit tool that I see on Amazon UK (+/-5c up/down buttons, digital display)? That one appears to go down to 180c?
I guess though, that if one puts the Exacto type blade attachment on, which you used at one point, thermal gradient on the thin blade will mean the tip is a lot lower in reality.
I do have an Antex thermostatic soldering iron that goes down to 200c. I'm wondering if Antex do other tips than soldering tips. Might look around.
That hot knife looks brilliant, where. can I get one?
@@bryanpanton Amazon.
@@zvbxrpl doesn't have a model, just described as a Fuyit wood burning pen kit.
How do I remove stuck support on the bottom of the 3D print?
What hot knife do you have / recommend?
hi, nice video, i am picking up a hot knife kit. i was wondering, what is the magnifying tool with the clips called that you have on your bench
LOVE the (LEARN SOMETHING TOGETHER)
Is there anything to stop the plastic to stick to knife or soldering iron or doesn't it tend to stick?
Good tips! I just used the amazon link to try the wood burner, I have a small 3D printing business and I think it will help a lot, thanks
My pleasure. Thanks for commenting.
Hello Doc,
many thanks for your great videos! Can you please update the Amazon link to the hot knife, it does not work anymore. Greetings, Ralf.
I am away from my computer now. I will update the link tomorrow. Thanks for pointing this out. Basically any “wood burning” iron with a blade will
work.
The link to "Adjustable Temperature Hot Knife" is not found anymore
I'm looking for a hot knife but all the temps seem to be too high. Any suggestions?
Great video, I have the cross hatch layer that was from the support that is in a tight area, any advise for this. I don't want to use heat because it might damage the print (not surgeon hands here)
Super useful, thank you!!!👍👍
The link for the hot knife you used is dead.. I have been looking around amazon but it seems like the one closest to what you used starts at 300 degrees.. you said you can turn yours to 90 degrees. What model do you have?
This is the "woodburning kit" I purchased "46pcs Wood Burning Kit Creative Woodburner Set with Adjustable Temperature Soldering Pyrography Wood Burning Pen, Embossing/Carving/Soldering Tips". You can use any "solder iron" with an adjustable temperature that can use "knife style" tips. You want the iron to be able to go as low as the glass transition temperature of your filament. So for PLA this would be about 50 - 60C or 122 to 150f.
Here is an Amazon search for the right thing. This is an affiliate link -- it helps support the channel -- at no cost to you.
amzn.to/2PmNbCL
Hope this helps. Irv
@@MakeWithTech thank you. For some reason I cant find one that goes lower the 200c..
great video as always Doc.
For strings removal I prefer a fire lighter! Close the fire 1-2cm to the strings and not more than 100-200ms :)
What brand and model hot knife you using in the video?
Cool picking up a hot knife!
Do you have a link I could use to find a hot knife like the one in the video? I've looked around a lot and can't find an adjustable one like his.
@@SMSmithCreative94 it’s in his notes
I suggest you to position camera at the bottom face of the surface that you were smoothening and at the top surace from you were scratching off the left outs of support. I could only see you operating the tool and not what it does to the surface.
as soon as you took that heat gun to those towers... like watching a horror film... don't go in there! :) good times.
You are absolutely correct. Do not use a heat gun with finely detailed features. However, for a lot of heavier prints, it works great.
For cleaning up prints instead of a knife or a hot knife/foam cutter i use a scraper made by the company MiNi they makes the TS-100/80 soldering irons. Its called a Viper scraper. Its made from damascus steel, is pretty AF and i use it for everything. Even taking prints off the bed. Its one solid piece of metal and comes with a ruby oxide whetstone. I can get it near razor sharp. Just don't drop the thing blade down. It takes forever to hone the ding out of the blade
your link for purchasing an adjustable temperature hot knife is no longer valid. Please specify the name and model of the knife that you are using.
Butter and cake, thanks now I'm hungry. Nevertheless very good video just like all of them.
I'm off to buy a hot knife. Thanks 😊
WHT is the brand and model of your hot knife? The Amazon link no longer works.
I was hoping this video he mentioned how he printed the blue infinity cube (with or without support, what angle, how to clean up, etc.). Was a bit disappointed to see it on the table and having him not talked about it...
You dont need print so much big raft .. There is distances .You can print only 1 mm around object .No 5 cm :P Unless you are using a raft to support a tall object .
Thanks for sharing. Yes you are able to use a smaller raft, but if the purpose of the raft is to support an object with limited contact with the print surface I find a larger raft is more reliable. I do not spending a bit more time printing the raft to limited the possibility of a failed print.
hot knife link is broken
I just switched to using kit.co for my links. I still need to find all the links in my older videos.
This will take you to working links: kit.co/search?term=drvax
I can never seem to get the raft off.
Try and avoid using a raft whenever you can, they're a pain in the butt. A brim or skirt comes off easier and select support as "touching buildplate"
you give off very bov ross fells
Fingernail clippers
Excellent idea.
Adjustable Temperature Hot Knife is 404
zoom in please, we don't need to see your entire office and degree on the wall - just close up of what you are doing
😂😂😂😂unexpected melting strings
Yep. One of my early videos. The hot knife trick does work great.
DrVax i haven’t used hot knife i have a small mini drill kind of thing tiny one and i just use sand paper it works perfectly for me