I was waiting to see the hinge fiber break because of the excessive wedging. The bore or plunge is normally used with a heavy leaner, yes the backcut should be higher than the bottom of the notch and the release of the strap is lower, no need for the 3rd wedge. Placing the backcut below the notch was probabally part of the reason it was hard to get going. Best part I saw was leaving a high stump to avoid rot at ground level with dead ash. I'm 31 years teaching safety in the woods and I would suggest there is still something for all of us to learn.
Yes it should. This is apparently just some Joe Smo with average maybe less than average skills. It’s obvious from his video that there’s much room for improvement in his skills. He’s probably not the best candidate for producing “how to videos”.
It should be at level with the notch of the face cut. And there really wasn't any need for the plunge cut(at least from what I could make of the lean from the vid) He should've just done a normal back cut and lined it up better with the notch. And then wedged it from the back as needed.
@@timothyboone5003 This is a nonsense comment. There is no need to have an elevated backcut when your face cut is 90° or greater. With a 90° face cut the hinge wood fibers will remain intact until the canopy is nearly on the ground. If your face cut is 60° or less, you would want to elevate the back cut since the hinge will close sooner.
@-LiveFreeorDie You are more than welcome to believe it is nonsense. But me and many thousands more know that it’s not nonsense. I’ll tell you what is nonsense. That’s your statement about a 90 degree face cut hinge fibers holding all the way till it closes. In a perfect world, maybe. But in the real world where most of use exists. We know that different species have different hinging characteristics. To make a statement that is assuming all trees hinge the same shows a lack of understanding. It’s ok, not everyone one understands the skill of tree falling.
@@timothyboone5003 I understand different species have different hinging characteristics, we're talking about white ash, which is known to have strong hinge/wood fiber characteristics.
I thought there would be a lot of hateful comments on this video and I was right. Very few positive comments. I’m not saying that this method is the safest way or safe at all but he did fell the tree without getting hurt or killed. Cutting trees can be extremely dangerous, especially on steep rugged terrain. One piece of advice I would give though is to make sure you have a clear path away from the tree after it starts to fall.
Ugh, I struggled with a dead ash on my property. They do not want to fall. It is so odd when it happens. This would have worked for me. Thanks for posting the video.
Overall not a bad video but as many have commented, the back cut should be level with the hinge cut. Using a 90 degree open face notch is a good idea. Using a steel wedge isn’t the best idea especially if you need to use the saw for one more cut.
@@-LiveFreeorDieface cut wasn’t deep enough, the wedges in the side were too close to the middle of the tree to actually guide it in the right direction, and the plunge cut on this small of tree leaves very little material at the back to cut before it starts falling, especially if you do a proper deeper face cut. Face cut was also a huge angle which is fine but wastes wood. The plunge cut is good for large trees but this one wasn’t really big enough to justify the plunge cut.
if it was leaning back a bit like i think it looked like it was i would have just done the back cut first pounded a wedge in it to lift it up then cut a small facecut in it then wedged it over the rest of the way. only time i really do a plunge cut is if im scared its going to barberchair from forward lean or weight. side lean ill somtimes do a triple hinge depending on the tree but its not really somthing i like to rely on because they have broken off before on me. white oak you can swing like crazy.
Mankind has been cutting down or pulling down trees well before the chainsaw was ever invented. The Romans would just simply expose the roots cut them and then use a team of oxen or horses to just pull it down as one method. Which by the way is probably a better idea for a small backyard tree in case anybody’s wondering so you’re not left with a stump. Course instead of oxen just use a rope or a puller or even a winch.😊
Your backcut should be above your face so your hinge keeps the tree from sliding backwards off the stump. Your face cut looks like Pac man. If you were cutting for yield, you just took money out of your pocket. For fire wood, you just end up with a couple of short pieces.
As someone who chainsaws in shorts with a tourniquet for safety, I'd rather risk a tree falling on me than the kickback from plunge cuts. I'll just stay away from dead trees. I think in prehistoric times, people would build simple clay fire rings around trees and and cut them down that way. Much easier and safer than using a stone axe but I'm sure the idea of letting a tree fall at a random time would send chivvers down your spine.
You will not see a plunge cut go wrong on you if you only use the bottom 50% of the bar tip . Kick back occurs when using the top tip to begin the plunge.
@@CarrotCaptain nice. I bet if you are falling lots of small trees in a row it’s a great tool to have. The other thing I like is you don’t need to pound it in with a sledgehammer so less risk of falling dead branches from impact
Well that was pretty dangerous. Back cut should have been 3 or 4 inches higher. Should have bored a pocket for the back wedge after the face cut so that the wedge couldn't bottom out, especially if you're going to use a steel wedge.
The only thing you got right was not dying. That was a pathetic example of tree felling dude. stop it just stop it. It was like having Stevie Wonder as a driving instructor.
Nope, you undercut the backside below the center of the wedge, a bigger tree and you couldnt have even pulled it over with a machine once it sets back in the saddle. Your backcut should be at least one inch above the center of your wedge, leaving at least a 1" hinge. But the plunge cut is one of the safest, and if you a logger in say Pennsylvania on mountain ridges cutting Black Walnut, a plunge cut is all you're allowed to make so you dont split off an $8000 log with a barber chair scenario.
I mean everyone is at a different level. I'm no expert either and am still learning, but maybe leave the how-to videos to someone who is an actual expert. I know there's more than 1 way to fell a tree, but none of that looked like how I was taught. Also, dude, you wasted like 2 feet of the best wood! Cut your stump lower.
Turning the bar over on a consistent basis generally doubles the bar's service life. It's generally recommended to turn the bar over after each day's use. Since some days the saw will get significantly more use than other days a good method is to turn the bar over each time the burring on the bottom of the bar needs to be de-burred by filing with a bastard flat file or a raker/depth gauge file(the bottom of the bar is where most of the burring occurs because it is where most of the cutting occurs and where most of the bar and chain friction/heat build up occurs.
I was waiting to see the hinge fiber break because of the excessive wedging. The bore or plunge is normally used with a heavy leaner, yes the backcut should be higher than the bottom of the notch and the release of the strap is lower, no need for the 3rd wedge. Placing the backcut below the notch was probabally part of the reason it was hard to get going. Best part I saw was leaving a high stump to avoid rot at ground level with dead ash. I'm 31 years teaching safety in the woods and I would suggest there is still something for all of us to learn.
I'm sure this might be a dumb question but should the back cut not be higher than the notch?
Yes it should. This is apparently just some Joe Smo with average maybe less than average skills. It’s obvious from his video that there’s much room for improvement in his skills. He’s probably not the best candidate for producing “how to videos”.
It should be at level with the notch of the face cut. And there really wasn't any need for the plunge cut(at least from what I could make of the lean from the vid) He should've just done a normal back cut and lined it up better with the notch. And then wedged it from the back as needed.
@@timothyboone5003
This is a nonsense comment. There is no need to have an elevated backcut when your face cut is 90° or greater. With a 90° face cut the hinge wood fibers will remain intact until the canopy is nearly on the ground. If your face cut is 60° or less, you would want to elevate the back cut since the hinge will close sooner.
@-LiveFreeorDie
You are more than welcome to believe it is nonsense. But me and many thousands more know that it’s not nonsense. I’ll tell you what is nonsense. That’s your statement about a 90 degree face cut hinge fibers holding all the way till it closes. In a perfect world, maybe. But in the real world where most of use exists. We know that different species have different hinging characteristics. To make a statement that is assuming all trees hinge the same shows a lack of understanding. It’s ok, not everyone one understands the skill of tree falling.
@@timothyboone5003
I understand different species have different hinging characteristics, we're talking about white ash, which is known to have strong hinge/wood fiber characteristics.
I thought there would be a lot of hateful comments on this video and I was right. Very few positive comments. I’m not saying that this method is the safest way or safe at all but he did fell the tree without getting hurt or killed. Cutting trees can be extremely dangerous, especially on steep rugged terrain. One piece of advice I would give though is to make sure you have a clear path away from the tree after it starts to fall.
Would love to hear in detail the “How’s and why’s” these specific steps were taken and this is a preferred safer option. Thx in advance
Ugh, I struggled with a dead ash on my property. They do not want to fall. It is so odd when it happens. This would have worked for me. Thanks for posting the video.
what was all that side wedging about?
Overall not a bad video but as many have commented, the back cut should be level with the hinge cut. Using a 90 degree open face notch is a good idea. Using a steel wedge isn’t the best idea especially if you need to use the saw for one more cut.
I dont see this as safe method, sorry
Explain?
@@-LiveFreeorDieface cut wasn’t deep enough, the wedges in the side were too close to the middle of the tree to actually guide it in the right direction, and the plunge cut on this small of tree leaves very little material at the back to cut before it starts falling, especially if you do a proper deeper face cut. Face cut was also a huge angle which is fine but wastes wood. The plunge cut is good for large trees but this one wasn’t really big enough to justify the plunge cut.
if it was leaning back a bit like i think it looked like it was i would have just done the back cut first pounded a wedge in it to lift it up then cut a small facecut in it then wedged it over the rest of the way. only time i really do a plunge cut is if im scared its going to barberchair from forward lean or weight. side lean ill somtimes do a triple hinge depending on the tree but its not really somthing i like to rely on because they have broken off before on me. white oak you can swing like crazy.
Mankind has been cutting down or pulling down trees well before the chainsaw was ever invented. The Romans would just simply expose the roots cut them and then use a team of oxen or horses to just pull it down as one method. Which by the way is probably a better idea for a small backyard tree in case anybody’s wondering so you’re not left with a stump. Course instead of oxen just use a rope or a puller or even a winch.😊
If no one is in the woods to hear someone shouting "Tree Falling" did they even really shout it?
Your backcut should be above your face so your hinge keeps the tree from sliding backwards off the stump. Your face cut looks like Pac man. If you were cutting for yield, you just took money out of your pocket. For fire wood, you just end up with a couple of short pieces.
Just lost 10 quid with that silly stump
There is no need to have an elevated backcut when your face cut is 90° or greater.
Damn i don't do this for a living but that's smart as fuck lol😂
As someone who chainsaws in shorts with a tourniquet for safety, I'd rather risk a tree falling on me than the kickback from plunge cuts. I'll just stay away from dead trees. I think in prehistoric times, people would build simple clay fire rings around trees and and cut them down that way. Much easier and safer than using a stone axe but I'm sure the idea of letting a tree fall at a random time would send chivvers down your spine.
You will not see a plunge cut go wrong on you if you only use the bottom 50% of the bar tip . Kick back occurs when using the top tip to begin the plunge.
Ima take a wild guess that this guy is inexperienced
This guy should not be allowed neat either a saw or camera. A danger to himself and anyone influenced by this faulty technique
Look into a felling lever. You wont regret it.
Interesting… have you ever used it on a larger tree? @CarrotCaptain
@@coletaylor123 I've used it on some 24 pines. It worked well. Will test it out on something larger when it comes up.
@@CarrotCaptain nice. I bet if you are falling lots of small trees in a row it’s a great tool to have. The other thing I like is you don’t need to pound it in with a sledgehammer so less risk of falling dead branches from impact
remember to say tree falling for people that dont know why a saw is running
That was the scariest and most unsafe tree felling .
Is this some kind of joke???
Absolutely clown shoes!!😂😂
Dude ...keep practicing
Well that was pretty dangerous. Back cut should have been 3 or 4 inches higher. Should have bored a pocket for the back wedge after the face cut so that the wedge couldn't bottom out, especially if you're going to use a steel wedge.
Yeah, this isn't safer...
Greetings, one hobby, one profession, friends, don't forget to take care of your safety because this is quite a dangerous job...👍
It's fun to watch people being confidently incompetent
The only thing you got right was not dying. That was a pathetic example of tree felling dude. stop it just stop it. It was like having Stevie Wonder as a driving instructor.
Almost seems like a good way to barber chair
👍👍🪚🪚
Great advice and safe felling if that ash!
Need lots more practice!!
Not very Safe
Nope, you undercut the backside below the center of the wedge, a bigger tree and you couldnt have even pulled it over with a machine once it sets back in the saddle.
Your backcut should be at least one inch above the center of your wedge, leaving at least a 1" hinge.
But the plunge cut is one of the safest, and if you a logger in say Pennsylvania on mountain ridges cutting Black Walnut, a plunge cut is all you're allowed to make so you dont split off an $8000 log with a barber chair scenario.
These are DEAD trees they don`t remembr the rules,New tactics for a great tree that is not stable.
4 minutes it"s more than suficient!!!
Amateur hour! 😂
I mean everyone is at a different level. I'm no expert either and am still learning, but maybe leave the how-to videos to someone who is an actual expert. I know there's more than 1 way to fell a tree, but none of that looked like how
I was taught.
Also, dude, you wasted like 2 feet of the best wood! Cut your stump lower.
Why so much effort
You should have to take a class before you can buy a saw
Safer than? Was not safe or smart, just lucky.
Amazing skill 👍👍
Lol wow this guy has no clue on how to operate a saw
Your bar is on upside down!
The bar is not upside down. Its recommended to flip it when changing out chains.
@@randyrichard9105 wow! Thanks for the information!👏👏👏❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍
Turning the bar over on a consistent basis generally doubles the bar's service life. It's generally recommended to turn the bar over after each day's use. Since some days the saw will get significantly more use than other days a good method is to turn the bar over each time the burring on the bottom of the bar needs to be de-burred by filing with a bastard flat file or a raker/depth gauge file(the bottom of the bar is where most of the burring occurs because it is where most of the cutting occurs and where most of the bar and chain friction/heat build up occurs.
It's ok as long as you also run the chain backwards
very poor methode
Dodgy
😂😂
Horrible!! This is how not to cut down a tree folks!! Rookie mistake i guess!
Dude ...keep practicing