Battery on 10-year old Tesla Model S P85 died after 372,000 km part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- marcusbil.no/b...
abo@marcusbil.no
Get 30 day free Premium trial on ABRP by using referral code "Teslabjorn":
abetterroutepl...
Want to sell your Tesla/EV? marcusbil.no/s...
Want to buy a Tesla/EV? marcusbil.no/b...
Leasing a Tesla/EV? marcusbil.no/l...
Kempower make awesome EV chargers:
kempower.com/t...
Get 15 % discount when shopping at www.bilkompone... by using code "Teslabjorn". Worldwide shipping available (except for a few countries).
Get 15 % discount (also works on discounted prices) when ordering from Stormberg online by using discount code "Teslabjorn":
www.stormberg....
Tesla referral program is back! ts.la/bjrn3169
Get 10 % discount on S3XY buttons for Tesla:
enhauto.com/?u...
Results from my range tests, banana box tests and other goodies here:
docs.google.co...
Main folder with everything:
drive.google.c...
My equipment:
www.foto.no/ec...
www.foto.no/ec...
www.foto.no/ec...
www.foto.no/ca...
www.foto.no/ca...
www.foto.no/ca...
www.foto.no/si...
www.foto.no/r%...
www.foto.no/lo...
www.foto.no/fo...
The app I use when connecting to OBD ports on most EVs:
play.google.co...
ScanMyTesla app for showing battery temperature, etc:
play.google.co...
/ scanmytesla
www.e-mobility...
www.e-mobility...
The OBD dongle I use in Tesla, Leaf, Ioniq, e-Niro, e-Soul, i3, ID3/ID4 (Android only):
www.obdlink.co...
My Artlist playlist:
artlist.io/myc...
Most of my music is from Artlist.io. If you sign up for one year and use my referral link, you will get two months free:
artlist.io/art...
Donation links:
streamlabs.com/...
/ teslabjorn
My live channel:
/ teslabjornlive24
Teslabjørn Discord server:
/ discord
Reduce food waste and get great deals on food:
toogoodtogo.no/
You went to Cleavage for the Sun readers, your genius is un paralleled.
So when they steal this, will it go on page 3?
The water mark 😂 double classic
"Famous Norwegian youtuber called his mother in Thailand to rescue his EV!"
I can see it. Let's go, Sun.
This is going to be SO EASY for the Sun & co to cherry pick some specific part and quote out of context from this video, can't wait to see their article about it :D Loved the text moving around, but I am sure they will find a way outside of it :D
I thought the same thing as I saw the thumbnail.
A few tips! The 11.9V your 12V lead acid battery showed is only about 20% SOC. Lead acid is not supposed to ever go below 50%, or you do damage. So the Tesla software is right to shut all systems down so you won't completely kill the 12V. Also that little booster is NOT junk. The problem was that they have lithium ion cells and only 3 in series (like almost all 12V power banks). So if it only has 50% SOC as indicated by the two leds, the voltage of it is lower than your Tesla 12V battery, so it won't charge it. Next time keep it fuller and you would have been fine without needing to call rescue ;-)
Do these lithium boosters just connect directly to the automotive battery? I would have thought there would be some current regulation with a DC-DC buck-boost converter, but maybe the power density is too low for a compact design?
For 3S, if it just connects directly to the battery that means the only usable charge voltage is 4.2V*3 = 12.6V at 100% SOC, and 12V/3 = 4V which is like 80-85% SOC. So you can't even use 15% SOC in an EV. If it is a 10Ah lithium pack, then only around 2Ah is available for 'boosting' (assuming linearly proportional energy storage which I know is inaccurate). So you don't get much use if the battery is not deeply discharged. For that reason I feel like this booster design is best for starting applications rather than charging, because ICE cars are more tolerant to starting with low low voltages, while EVs like millenium falcon, have an undervoltage shutoff.
Bjorn should run the 3S booster into a DC-DC boost charger... It would be easy to use a 100W into the 12V socket in the car rather than this whole grille disassembly fiasco.
@@Infinion No, they just have a series diode. They are really only for starting ICE cars. When the 12V battery is low, you turn the starter motor over, voltage on battery drops too low, so this then feeds current in and allows engine to start. The diode prevents charging the car battery by accident, if you leave it on after the engine starts.
the other issue he had with that little booster is that the terminals it came with didn't reach far enough, they're designed to connect directly to the battery, not through an external connection point, and so it physically couldn't reach both the positive and ground points simultaneously
why do you even mention lead acid battery, it has no connection with tesla, li batt normal voltage is 3,7-4,2 but it can go to 3.2 v but it is better no
I had EXACTLY the same situation on my MS 2017 P100D. 1 year ago i did drove like 30-40kms on 0%. 2 months ago it stopped 1.5km before my house and more or less around 5kms after hitting 0%.
The problem you have is that one of the batteries in the one of the cells went suddenly lower in voltage (used more than the rest) so car shutdown not to damage the batterypack.
And the second problem you have in here is dead 12V battery. That's why immediately after DC-DC converter went down everything went black. You need to change your 12V battery and avoid going lower then 1% in this car, because battery isn't in the best condition anymore. I had around 180.000kms on the clock when this happened to me.
Do Teslas have any kind of warning that 12V battery is low? My car is as old as MF and I don't know if the battery was ever replaced.
@@Steroryes, but it doesn't always work. When you hear the battery contactors clicking every 1/2 hour when the car is parked (to top up tired 12V battery) and the phantom drain is higher than usual the 12v is on its way out.
@@moestrei keep in mind that in case you have some 24/7 accessories (parking mode camera or fridge or whatever) it will click more often but that doesn't have to necessarily mean that 12V is on the way out.
Essentially if you don't allow your HV down DC-DC should be able to keep up pretty much no matter what (until the official warning). However, with 0% left the DC-DC shuts down to protect HV.
@@Steroryes they show a message if the battery needs to be replaced in the dash. But it's a lead acid, those sometimes appear to be good and only show their low capacity when deep cycled. And the car probably doesn't do that under normal operations.
@@Steror yes, but like you clearly see it didn't work in my case... Best practice is to replace it every 2-3 years, even if there is no warning...
The sudden drop in battery voltage at low levels of charge, especially at lower temperatures, is a typical example of increased internal battery resistance due to battery cells degradation. The increased internal resistance has a worse impact in terms of practical use than the gradual decrease in battery capacity, which is also related to battery ageing.
What would you say the energy efficiency of degraded cells drops to with respect to increased internal resistance at low state of charge?
@@Infinion This effect is better seen on 3-4 years old phones with less then 70% battery life, when the phone still have 20% battery, you want to do something more intense and the phone dies in some seconds. After some point of battery degradation, internal resistance starts to grow, at low SoC the Voltage decreases and at some point that low voltage would not be able to overcome the internal resistance and the current becomes suddenly 0.
As a conclusion, never go deep if you have big battery degradation!
@@Manu-P8In other words, due to the increased internal resistance in a degraded battery, the remaining energy cannot be drained from the battery when power is needed. This is the main reason why the battery in an electric car has to be replaced. The old battery is not able to deliver enough power to run the car, even though it still has storage capacity.
Not sure if the 12 starter pack tried will stay on to charge something up, I thought you had to start the car within 20 or so seconds before they turn themselves back off.
Often jus ja few Cells in the pack droped low in voltage. Theoretically the battery can be repaired by replacing this lazy cells
I just moved all of my emergency charging equipment out of the frunk and into the trunk - thanks for the free lesson Bjorn.
9:28 The release is the locking mechanism for the charge cable, not to open the flap. The flap is just hold shut by a permanent magnet and gets released with an antiparallel electric magnet.
It would then be possible to open it with some brute force? Bjorn should test that! :D
Are you aware how the motorized charge port works? But either way I feel that even if you can force open you won't be able to actually charge without 12V high enough to support the "charge port ready" stage where the inverters start to work. YMMV
@ Early Model S, like Bjørn's, did not have motorized charge ports. They have to be closed by hand. They can be electrically opened though.
@@georgepelton5645 I know, mine had as well and I have upgraded it to motorized, that's why I'm asking you
@ The old S are not motorised. It's just a spring for open and you have to close by hand.
Thanks Bjørn for keeping the rest of us sharp and ready, so that we don't loose our head if something like this should happen.
And suddenly manual chargport and hood opening in my Niro is not so bad :D - great video
Yes that is quite true - my Kona had the same setup and very dependable. Our new I5 still has manual "frunk" so all good. Chargeport is electric but that is why I carry a fully charged portable pack in the frunk. 😂
Mike 🇨🇦
@@michaellippmann4474 AFAIK in the IQ5 there's a manual release for the charge port, accessible from the rear trunk (although the rear trunk is also electric). So not sure how that would work, though. Better have a battery booster always at hand. :)
I'm gonna sample Bjorn's "ahh, shieeeeeet" and have it play every time i get a text from my boss
Inside the rear gate under a small plastic cover in the middle you find a manual release for the rear gate.
Best video ever, many valuable lessons, such as get the charge port open, be kind to Viking women, don’t go below zero on an old EV unless you want to be rescued. Tesla Björn for the win! Awaiting part 2, or the inevitable Sun article, which will come first!?
I have the same car, sp85, 2013, 245000km. My wife gets very worried if it shows 15%. I can't even think of 0 :))
Maybe you could do an Q&A session with the rescue company from the lady. They might have an interesting insight from their experience. Which cars are breaking down more often ICE vs. PHEV vs. BEV? Which are the most common reasons for need of road assistance?
Good idea…
I saw a video with a rescue company a few years ago. They said the most common road calls were for flat tires and dead 12 V batteries. This was the same for ICE and EVs.
@@georgepelton5645 There’s a similar situation with car fires with ICE cars. The main reason is a problem with the 12v systems (e.g. shorts from abraded wires). Ref, from the British AA
Fully Charged do some myth busting where they talk to leasing companies that have over 100000 vehicles. Covered things like Fires (none) Tyre wear (same as ICE) Break wear (less than ICE) etc.
@@Markle2k Wasn't one of the last huge fires an ICE Range Rover? They had some weird starter motor issue.
I love these zero mile videos 👍The drama, the suspense, the cliffhangers…
The Sun will be very pleased with this video 😅
😂
The engine in my 1990 CRX is 33 years old with 275K miles. All the parts that have failed so far have been electrical. Distributor (twice), main relay( at least 3), fuel pump, ECU ( bad capacitors) one fuel injector, but the engine and transmission are 100% stock and running perfectly.
Ok thanks for the anicdote.
the little booster you have is more than enough to start a big diesel engine with dead 12v battery. you just need a proper ground attachment at a " normal " distance from the positive one 😀
genious with "The Sun Stole videous text floating around" 😆
For the frunk: You should have a manual release "cable" in der co-drivers footwell. So it should be possible to open from inside.
By the way, any of those small jump start packs can be made more usable by making up new, longer, cables which connect directly to the socket on the box.
The “beeper” and timer which is meant for starting engines is the small module built into the supplied cable.
I carry such a set in my old EV which at least has manual door locks :)
Great video, congratulations!! I had the same problem with a 2017 model x loaner car: It had 179 tkm and was in terrible conditions. I wanted to drive to a SuC, the car estimated 5% of remaining battery when arriving. But before the exit of the Autobahn (A7, Kaltenkirchen) the car stopped. The battery percentage dropped from 5% to 0% in less than a minute. 12V died immediately, charging equipment, safety equipment, all in the locked frunk, ... Had to be rescued by ADAC: The jump started the 12V system but the car did not want to be put into towing mode (wheels were blocked). So, we had to hoist the car by putting extra moveable platforms below the wheels... uff. Then they brought me to the SuC.
Waited for this one!
Can't wait for part 2!! ...and I might need to unblock "The Sun" content just to see if they pick this one up!
The electric latches for everything is a concern of mine with my spouse's Model 3. I believe there are no mechanical overrides to open the frunk or doors (from the outside) if the low voltage system goes offline. The fact that it so quickly shuts down the 12V system after shutting down the high voltage is really disappointing. It should keep critical systems (like the door and frunk latches, charge port, etc) operational until the 12V battery is DED. 11.9V is heavily discharged but still more than enough to power basic electric solenoids and actuators for the latches and doors.
If you have a big enough lever (crowbar) everything has a manual release
Same problem with Discovery One of 2001 Space Odyssey. HAL 9000 asked Frank to do an EVA to get the external jump start because the frunk and trunk were jammed. You kmow the rest.. sheeeit! 😢
Love your channel! It was your episode on subzero camping on your way to
Lillehammer Norway which was decisive for me to order my Model 3. 55,000 miles and 5 years later I have NO REGRETS! BEST CAR EXPERI
Awesome tow lady seems to have done this a few times and knows her job. did she recognize you? I liked that the also participated in you video in English
Speaking some English is nothing special in DK/NO/SE.
Just made a Northcape Roadtrip and came across your new Town on the way back.
V4 SC, not bad. But only a garden center close by...
But I got to say, Norway, the North and Northwest, is beautiful man
Windows XP background over there. I love your humour, Bjørn.
Loving the way you're giving sheeeet back to The Sun.
If I remember correctly, some booster packs need to detect a voltage with the correct polarity on their leads before they'll switch on, the idea being to prevent noobs from shorting the leads out or connecting the battery back to front and blowing it up. There might be an override button the forces it to power on, I'm aware Noco boosters have this feature.
I can see the Sun headline "SHOCKED! Man can ONLY drive 230,000 miles before a car breaks DOWN"
I apologise on behalf of the British people for the Sun Readers, the journalists there aren't bright either!
230k miles will be a lovely saving if they charged mostly at home.
@@colinwisemanor have free supercharging like this car does.
The trunk problem sounds like the common model S cinch motor problem, which I had twice on mine, and most Uk model S owners have had!
I wonder if electric-to-ICE conversions on Teslas will ever become a thing? :-)
Hmmn, a 1.5L Honda might fit...
It is a common problem with trunk cinching actuator, pretty cheap repair. Also if you disconnect it you can close trunk manually as a temporary solution
I think the biltemmer (or however it's spelled) jump starter would surely have worked fine if you could get connection to ground and all
Biltema
@@Angusoksen oh right 😄 thanks
And also I assume it wasn’t charged that’s why it was making the noise
@@JanSevera well I think it had two out of three SOC lights, which should've been just enough maybe... Or maybe not... Not sure whether it was making the noise because of this or because there wasn't a connection or what
The good old mechanical Hyundai hood release 😊 The access to the cables in the frunk 😄 The access to your paperwork in the glove compartement even when the screen is down 😂
Bjorn, this is great entertainment, reality shows better than fiction. I also learned a lot. Thank you and keep on going. 🤩👍
You should be just so lucky to be saved by a lady! :D
an on-board charger or the +12V pilot of the EVSE should be designed to provide a small amount of 12V current to the battery to bring up the automotive voltage so battery contactors can be engaged.
Oh man, glad that the rescue got that booster! 👍👍👍👍👍
Dude the thumbnail…here comes the sun😂
that title LMAO, bjorn u never disappoint to entertain
If you open the tow eye cover there should be 2 cables in there, if you put 12v on them, it will pop the frunk open.
1. That is model 3.
2. Use a 9 volt standard electronics battery.
Lots of youtubes show it in use.
Solid Run...im already on my second Battery on my E-Tron GT after only 20000KM.
Rescue Lady reminded me of Sabine Schmitz.
Björn at his best!
Got my popcorn all ready for this!
Priceless😂 Björn should make a movie lol!
I should go through my own rescue kit I have. I do have a hefty booster that can cold crank a small diesel. With 3/Y need at least a small battery to pop the solenoid for the latch. Used to be able to do it with a 9 V battery but I went with a A23 12 V. Just small enough to fit behind the front tow hook cover. Only works if the 12 V is dead since the MCU will keep it closed. But only because I left the booster in the frunk too. Never had to use it but now I know better.
As always, thank you!
The small lithium booster needs to detect voltage and polarity to work. They also often have a timer that times out after a few minutes. This is all to protect the lithium battery and stop it going on fire.
@Bjørn you should have a cable from the ecoflow 12V outlet to the two connectors at the front of the car. That should work.
You can open the Frunk old shool manualy from within the cabin. There is a lever in the footroom
You (or Marcusbil) should change the 12V-battery on the car. It shure is 10 years old, and maybe a 12V-Lead-Acid-Motorcycle battery like in the Toyota Hybrids. It is not a big thing to change, but will increase the time till the car shuts down.
ahh I feel your pain... my Model X 100D HV battery died about 2 weeks ago with about 64,000 miles... changed under warranty.
Initially thought it was the 12 volt.
My Uncle has a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood with 400 thousand miles on it and still runs like a champ..
There are so many reports of broken battery packs when they get a little over 10 years old. Very convenient for Tesla that they only give warranty for 10 years, i think they brake on purpose.
"here comes the sun" thumbnail made my day 😂
Hey Bjørn, these early MS still had a manual release handle for the frunk in the footwell on the passenger side.
At least my 10 yo MS P85 has - if it hasn't been removed, the Millenium Falcon should have it too.
In a Hyundai, you have backup manual cable release for charge port and charging cable, tucked into floor of the trunk.
If you bring the ecoflow anyways, a small 220V 12V charger without batteries would do. Or one of these current limiting cigarette lighter socket to cigarette lighter socket cables.
Noooooo! Part 1 only? The suspense is killing me!! LOL Thanks Bjorn. I wonder if our 2022 Model Y Lithium 12V battery is better than the older lead-acid ones in this scenario? Lotsa love to all ❤❤❤
The battery of my tablet died when watching 😂
I have one of those boosters from Biltema. I have been able to help a model x that ran out of 12V battery with it so it could charge. Tough it's not the best for EV's as it only provides power 1 min before shutting off. According to a service tech at Tesla the car stops feeding power to the 12V battery after you hit 5 or 10%(on the HV batery) i can't remember exactly. And if you dont have enough charge in the 12V the car wont accept a charge to the HV battery either(also from the service tech). This was in the case of a model X so might be differnt for other models. But still good to know.
The G.O.A.T. of electric cars, with real problems, and being rescued, by a woman...
WOW
I never expected to see this.
Good video.
Damn, I hate "to be continued" credits... Proper thriller suspension, good job!
You can try to use Ecoflow to charge 12v battery. Ecoflow has 12v output as cigarette lighter port. You must combine cable with clamps to connect this port to car where you tried to connect your booster.
I didn't have the cable.
best way to stop a light drawing power and running a battery flat, is to remove the bulb if you can.
A LeadAcid Battery hat around 400 Cycles and than it is tot a DoD of 60%. I think it is a bad idea, to make it unable to open any doors (front/back/chargport) without 12V. It is also dumb that the
God the amount of things wrong with this comment.
Newer Tesla's have moved away from SLA batteries.
Normally the DC-DC converter takes care of everything 12v related. But if the cars completely dead, its only the 12v. If the 12v is bad then nothings going to work and you need to jump it.
A battery can show a high voltage and still be bad. If a battery has a very high internal resistance it will show a higher voltage until you put a load on it, then it will drop to nothing. Useless.
So lesson learned. Make sure your 12v is still good after 3-4 years.
@@silvy7394 if your battery is going dead, it will be on low voltage or has a higher voltage drops on load connection. this can be monitored and a message can be shown as an info to check it with a professional tool. My comment is absolutely correct.
My 2017 P100D with 45,000 miles let me know the battery needed to be replaced soon.
It also said it would not receive any more updates until the 12 volt battery was replaced.
@@LittleSpot Broh did you not read my comment or use any common sense? There wont be voltage drop on a load when a 200A DC-DC converter is running everything 12v. With a high internal resistance the voltage will stay up when the cars off, so the car thinks the batterys still good under normal conditions.
Get your head out of the gutter retard.
@@TheMadmax0609 my 2021 y performance with 46000 miles gave me no early warning when the 12 volt battery died when my car was in my garage! As a result, it gave the pop up messages after the fact! That’s scary 😮!
Pure Gold this Video :D
Hi Bjorn,
I love your videos and you inspire me to make some 0% test like this 😅.
Gary from France 🇲🇫
This was funny but for real you think there would be some kind of emergency release for the charge port
This is the best content.
That thumbnail was epic :D
I had the same problem with the trunk.. there is a way to open it. But will need you to take covers off and disconnect the controller… Just take it to a repair shop.
Fake drama, real drama, a damsel in shining armor, great stuff!
Props to the viking for the rescue. Well done.
Can it be that the 12V battery is bad and the High voltage battery stops charging the 12V battery when it reaches for example 5%? And the car stopped because of the 12V battery, but not because the HV battery is dead? Or not?
Bjorn, I had very similar issue with the trunk. Did you try to open it manually and then try to close with the button? I either opened or closed it manually and then it started working normally again.
For the frunk, you probably have a different issue, but for me it half-unlatches if I don't lift it while opening. Then it gets stuck and I need to close it again to reopen.
Finally, for the CCS adapter, it's very convenient to keep it right under the screen, it fits nicely at the opening of center panel. But that's coming from someone who uses it on semi-regular basis.
and it fits perfectly into cupholder in your arm rest - with left side lower it fits even with your elbow and doesn't move much
Same me, I have also this problem with semi locked trunk, get loose after several kilometer ride, so I can close it. Then I screw more tight two rubber bumpers in trunk, seems it helps.
My Li-Ion Starter is 3s, fully charged it is 12.6v, at 60% is around 11 volts or less. Good enough for starting ice cars, but Tesla seams to wont more then 12v to work...
Seems like that one from Biltema didn't work from day 1.
Yeah, those 3S lithium starters need to come with a DC-DC buck-booster. Something with a 12V socket limited to 100-150W would be perfect for EVs. Charge the battery up to 13.5V or something.
You could have snuck into the back and opened the charge port from inside.
Björn is such a Nerd to the rescue.
Nope
Voltage on the cigarette lighter should be around 13.2
@bjornnyland if you haven't already got one EcoFlow do make a 12V LA battery "Smart Auto Battery Charger" for RIVER and DELTA Series portable power stations (not sure which line of packs you have). A BM2 or BM6 BT 12V battery monitor might be a good idea too...
This video makes 1 thing clear.
You never know what you're up to with electric cars.
Diesel Power!
Yes one 10 year old tesla = all electric cars.
It would be interesting to know at what state of charge the DC-DC converter shuts down
Best video since long time!
Your tailgate clinch motor has lost its calibration. You can reset it by removing and inserting the black multiway connector that's located behind the left rear wheel-arch boot trim cover.
This is why i started keeping Duracell 9V battery in my ICE car for stranded EV's.
Love your videos Bjørn, when will you start doing bidi-charger reviews?
Excellent review again - the results aren’t really surprising but simple physics: the total drag Force not just depends on the SHAPE of the car (is rear or top box the better shape?), but equally on the Cross-sectional Area of the car: Force in Nm = c x A (x v2). The Area of the car is undoubtedly larger with the top box while the rear box doesn’t increase the Area at all. So even if the drag coefficient c of the rear box was no better than the one of the car with the top box, the total drag force would be much lower because the Area is smaller than for the car with top box.
Any idea yet when you will be getting a Tesla Model 3 Highland to test (properly)?
Since I have a Model S 85 from 2013 with 352.000km I have asked Tesla for a rate for a battery swap with an remanufactured battery in case mine would die, they told me 8000€ with 4 years warranty and 160.000km. A fully new one would be around 15000€. I'm in Belgium.
There is an emergency release for the frunk (in the right wheel house I thought to remember).
Actually. On these old model S's it's a emergency release in the glove box.
That 12V-booster you have. I have one just like it. It works just fine on my 2014 TMS. 🤷♂️
Used it several times as I got a faulty 12V-battery from Tesla.
Possibly mine has slightly longer cables but it sure looks the same as yours. 🤷♂️
this jumper box is probably just 12v acid lead with charger pcb, You could use regular 12v with jumping cables instead
Please do keep trolling The Sun every chance you get - make it a theme! :)
I bet you can use the 12V output from the Ecoflow battery to do the jumpstart, just need the proper cable/clamps