Fitting USB C & USB Quick Charge plus additional 12V socket in our Elddis CV20 Campervan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I install a USB C Power Delivery with dual USB A quick charge along with a 12V socket in our Elddis CV Campervan to save needing to carry a load of chargers and extension leads.
To ensure the circuits don't get overloaded, I install a separate feed switched by a solid state relay to avoid wasting power. This also ensures that the USB and 12V sockets are switched off automatically when the campervan power is switched off.
You can find parts I used in the LeisureBit Amazon Shop in the Campervan Electrical & Electronics list:
www.amazon.co....
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Principal Parts Used:
Solid State Relay - SSR-40 DD 40A DC Solid State Relay Module:
www.amazon.co....
30A DC Circuit Protector:
www.amazon.co....
12V PD Type C Car Charger Socket & Dual Quick Charge 3.0 Ports Aluminum, 60W USB C Triple USB Socket Aluminum Car Charger with Touch Switch
www.amazon.co....
12V Socket:
www.amazon.co....
Black and Red 3mm Cable:
www.amazon.co....
#USBCharger #12V #USBPD
When working with electrics, please ensure you're confident in what you're doing and switch the power off before making any changes, make sure connections are secure and appropriate size fuses or breakers are used to protect your van and equipment. Be particularly careful when working with or around mains electric also.
If you decide to do this yourself, this video is just a guide on how I have gone about it to suit my specific purposes and may not be the best way of going about it. Any mods you undertake you need to personally assess the risk before going ahead and whether it's needed or right for you. Do so at your own risk.
Everything I purchased is a personal purchase and not sponsored in any way.
If you decide to do this yourself, this video is just a guide on how I have gone about it to suit my specific purposes and may not be the best way of going about it. Any mods you undertake you need to personally assess the risk before going ahead and whether it’s needed or right for you.
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I welcome your thoughts, comments and feedback. Have you fitted additional USB and 12V sockets to your van? Would you do anything differently or ideas for improvement? Thanks in advance, David 👍
Hi David. Saw you at Newark Show today. It was this video and the solid state relay that I was trying to explain. (Had to search the video to remember what it was called for my own sanity 😂)
Nice to have met you and thanks for the sticker.
Was great meeting you today. Ah, that’s the one, yes - that explains it. Hope you enjoyed the rest of the show - have a lovely weekend, All the very best, David 👍
Nice improvement for power and enables you to not take all those additional cables etc - great idea David, Thanks
Thanks Tim, appreciated. It wasn’t a difficult job to do either and already coming in very handy. All the best, David 👍
Great video David. Convenient where you put the sockets.👍
Thank you - took a bit of deciding but seems to be the right place as coming in useful already - Thanks for the comment and continued support, it’s genuinely appreciated - all the best, David 👍
Hi David, great video. Those sockets are game changers for high end tech products. I've got a drone, 3 batteries, laptop, macbook, external power bank and 2 phones. The rapid charge function is superb as most can be done on the dc to dc charger in transit having little effect on battery drainage. Glad I found your channel, I'm learning more from you. Keep them coming please. Enjoy Northumberland 😊
Thank you - really appreciate the comment - you’re right they are really useful and I would agree game changer - certainly getting use out of them and as you say can charge up all sorts and sometimes much faster. Northumberland is lovely shame it’s clouded over today though - still nice 😃 - All the best, David 👍
@@LeisureBit Was cloudy for also in the lakes. Hope you guys had a good one none the less.
Great video. One thing I would mention is those breakers really need to be changed to fuses. There are more faulty breakers manufactured in China than there are genuine reliable 12v breakers. I honestly think these breakers are the cause of many campervan fires. The majority of pictures I'm seeing online of campervan/motorhome fires are in the rear of the vehicles (internally). When you would expect a vehicle fire to start under the bonnet most of the time.
Hi Andrew, Thanks for the feedback, appreciated. I heard about that following fitting them (all be it avoided any with poor feedback and paid a bit more) Everything I’ve done is ‘double protected’ but am going to add additional fusing and replace some of the breakers with rotary switched for isolation. Thank you - appreciated again. All the best, David 👍
hi - are there any breakers you would recommend instead?
@@robandabstravel Genuine breakers for 12v are really pricey. Don't touch those breakers sold on ebay and amazon (the black plastic rectangles with a red or yellow button) because they have at least a 50% failure rate. They either fail to trip at their rated amps or dont trip at all. You are much better off using Midi or Mega fuses. They readily available and reliable and budget friendly. A lot of the high quality 12v breakers like the genuine Blue Sea are built for the boating industry have been copied/cloned by Chinese companies but dont buy the clones!!. So unless you want to pay crazy prices for genuine breakers from an establish boating supplier, stick to the standard Midi or Mega fuses and bladed fuses for lower amp cables, which are standard in automotive use. UK ambulance and fire engines don't use breakers, they use standard automotive fuses. The Only Chinese copies that I do use are the identical copies of the Blue Sea E-Series Dual Battery Isolator Switches that I buy from Aliexpress for £10-£12 depending on the amp rating. I always buy the 4 position 500A rated version with the 12mm lugs on the back. It's overkill but allows for battery capacity upgrades in the future. No one running a 12v system is ever going to pull more than 300A even if they are going to install a 12v 3000 watt inverter. So the 500A battery isolator switch is almost double the capacity.
You can never have to many USB sockets :-) Nice informative video as ever David
Thank you - it’s coming in really handy and wasn’t too expensive which are the jobs I love 😀 - all the best, David 👍
Hi Dave another great video keep up the good work just wondering How’s that Roma battery doing I am thinking about getting one when they are back in stock cheers Shaun.
Hi Shaun, thank you - really appreciate the comment. The battery is doing great - really pleased with it - definitely no complaint with it at all so far and with plenty of capacity you don’t need to worry about stuff so opening up more possibilities. All the best, David 👍
We could do with one of those for the iPad. Like where you fitted them. Nice vlog. 😊🧙♂️
They are very handy and seem to charge much quicker than the standard (as you would expect of course) and it saves the wires dangling down from above i have found it easier to use too and you can charge three things at once too. Thank you, David 👍
Great video, very informative 👍👍👍
Thank you … David’s the tecky as you might be able to tell I just like going nice places 🤣
Ótimo vídeo sucesso no canal sempre ótima apresentação 👏
Hi David, great video 😊 I wonder if you could help me please. I’m confused by the tech information on Amazon on the USB charger. If I were to plug in 3 devices all charging at the same time, what would the maximum current draw be.
Hi Jonathan - so the one I purchased has a maximum output of 60W (5A) which is split by 30w (2.5A @ 12V) for the USB C power delivery socket and then either 1x18W or 2x15W from the USB A quick charge ports (it’s limited to 30W total out of the USB A).
So the total power you can draw if you used all 3 sockets (which I regularly do) is 60W max - allowing for inefficiency the 12v power would be between 5-6A with all in use - the USB A at 5v and 15W would output 3A max to the device.
Does that help and answer your question?
All the best, David 👍
@@LeisureBit Thank you for your reply, much appreciated. I’m looking at 1.5mm2 cable from this to fuse box and fusing with a 7.5 amp, does this look ok to you?
@@jonathantillotson9936 That sounds about right to me - no problem at all - good luck with the install - all the best, David 👍
@@LeisureBit LEGEND!!! ⭐️👍🏻
Got a 2022 cv20, there are no usb sockets in the hab area? How daft is this, I am going to add a few,
They come in really handy, my dealer offered to install one but I had decided to fit these as they had the new USB C type as well as the USB A with quick charge, also I have USB on the spotlights which come in very handy. They are great vans aren’t they. All the best, David 👍
Another great video buddy I’m wanting to do the same but I can’t wire to the back of my fuse panel like you have … would I be able to piggy back from a fuse on the fuse panel like the light like you use or I could go to the entertainment fuse all turn on and off by the control panel
Thanks
I would expect so, I actually considered doing that and using a fuse tap but then changed to the way I did it but can’t see any reason why not it you can find a suitable one to tap from.
Hope that helps, All the best, David 👍
@@LeisureBit I agree thanks buddy
@@LeisureBit oh buddy I think I took this wrong sorry 😞 so am I right now in thinking the orange wire is the signal wire for when on ehu power it signals you are on site power ? similar to a signal wire on some chargers that come on your control panel showing the electric icon ? is that what you used the orange wire for to basically switch off when on ehu or am I wrong sorry for the long question
@@Elites-asthetic The orange wire signals when the power is switched on in the campervan - reason for it is there’s a limit on capacity of the circuit so it signals to the relay when to be on and off and allows more power without overloading. On the shore power side, I am looking to add something which warns if shore power is connected if you start the engine along with some other useful stuff (some point in September/October I should have that finished off) - does that help? My control panel doesn’t have an electric icon for ref. Hope that makes sense?
@@LeisureBit ok thanks so this is purely 12v side while off grid everything you wired is to 12v feed and yea the other video will be interesting
Has anyone found a 12V USB-C PD socket that can output the full 100W at 20v x 5A?
I bought an adaptor which can but couldn’t find a socket which would deliver 100w at that time. Is it for a MacBook or laptop? If so I bought a PWR+ one from Amazon which I paid £35 for and has the following spec works great on a MacBook Pro M2 Max 2023 - Output Max: 5V 3A, 9V 3A, 12V 3A, 15V 3A, 20V 4.5A 90W PD Power Delivery (40W 45W 60W 61W 65W 80W 87W 90W 96W 100W Compatible) / Input Volt: 12V. There are similar ones too.
@@LeisureBit What do you mean by adapter? One that plugs into a cigarette lighter? Those are the only ones I can find. From experience and what I've read they get very hot because of the small size, and the 12v cigarette lighter socket connection is also bad for heat due to poor electrical connection. I'm trying to find a USB-C PD power source that I can directly wire into a 12V system. And yea it would be for charging a MacBook but also many other things.
Yes the ones which plug in but it has a lead which goes to a small box then the USB C output from that avoiding the overheating issue - I’ve found that one perfect - if you search on Amazon for pwr MacBook you should see the type I got - has a blue LED on it. That’s worked perfect for me. Clearly your 12V socket needs to be rated 10A or more for 100W
@@LeisureBit that would work! I would chop off the cigarette lighter connector and solder it straight into a 12V circuit or use a better connector like an Anderson power pole connector. EDIT: Found it! Thanks a lot! Going to look into this.
@@hornz5 excellent 👍