Cabinet maker for 45 years here. Full size elephant on the head sink. My vote for the bigger sink even if it takes cabin space. You won’t regret it. Happy wife happy life.
i had this problem with my RV... wanted a bigger sink as the one it came with was too small, but a bigger residential sink was too big. Went with a deeper bar sink. Problem solved!
Do the bigger sink with a drying rack and a pot filler style sink. It would be wall mounted and manipulatible. You could also do a sprayer nozzle separate that could reach your pots that are on the stove. Love the videos! Been watching for 3 years!
One small other way to get a little more degree of tilt in the stove, is to additionally omit the small amount of hull insulation only where the stove meets the hull. Also, a bit of trivia, the recess at the bottom of the cabinets for one's feet is called a "toe kick" :) Never miss you guys' videos!
I suggest a interlock system for the stove, like many have. The gimbal does not need to swing when not in use and at some point you don't want to cook. Especially not at an heel angle of >30 degrees ;-)
@@bobadam7021 Well I do because, no coffee no watch! I can't afford a jetboil according to my head accountant, aka the admiral. I also sail with Cape Horners who aren't happy unless the world is at 25 degrees plus.
You can't always predict when the boat is going to heel and to what degree when you're in the middle of a three course cook-up on a multi-day voyage at sea.
I continue to be impressed with your for thought. Most builders would bury the plumbing and wiring and forget them. Makes sense to plan access points. Deep sink and shallow water. If Ava decides to jib the boat you won't have a lap full of water.
Considering there is no dishwasher I would recommend checking the size of the sink against the size of the pots and pans that need to be cleaned. If they don’t fit it can be a pain.
When I showed my wife how I cleaned the pans by suspending them over the side on some "pot" lines. She was seriously unimpressed. Now my army of dishwashing fish are going hungry poor things.
@@philgray1023 Home ashore are the rightful domain for wives to wield executive power. The opposite needs to happen when the home takes to the sea. IMHO.
Sam Worthy If Ava has already requested a larger sink, it’s a moot point to go smaller. Although, going deeper is a must on a boat for many reasons: less spillage, others uses. You’ll want to hand wash clothes, bathe babies, etc. The idea to use the “farm sink” that extends out in the front is a good space saving idea that still has underneath mounting.
@@lydiaajohnson If Ava (or Mads, for that matter) were to include every "nice to have", the project would be a complete disaster. Neither party should have the right to insist on inclusion of items which involve space, weight, maintenance, unreliability, risk, energy use, cost, unsuitability and the like. A large-footprint sink ticks three of these boxes. Different thinking is needed than ashore. Clothes, babies and the like can be washed in a multipurpose plastic crate which stows out of the way, and means those tasks can overlap in time (eg soaking stained laundry, baby swimming laps or voiding bowels)
Gottenhimfella Fair enough. I was going by what Mads said in the video. With the work completed thus far, I think he’s intelligent enough to determine which size will work. I’ve lived on a boat before, and know that trade-offs need to be made. I assumed that Mads and his fiancé had taken that into account. It’s their boat.
It is nice to have a fresh of coffee on the stove after you’ve rolled the boat. Seriously, it looks very professional and will last a life time. I like the smaller sink. Just get one that is a little deeper.
This is my first post even though I’ve been watching for several years. We cruise a 35-foot J boat for most of the summer. Choose the BIGGEST sink possible!!!! We end up putting all our dishes in the sink and then doing them all at once. But it fills up fast. From this woman to Ava - please pick the biggest sink! 😝
Mads, just bite the bullet and use the heating system used on SV Basik. I like the idea of rounding the box and you should think about securing the stove from moving when opening the oven door, or when not in use for safety reasons. I also like the suggestion of weight in the bottom to lessen the movement for the cook.
Looked like you had space at the back of the box behind the stove to cut the bottom rear corner corner away, and replace with a 45° panel to accommodate the heel angle you need. More metalwork!
To be honest, I would put the stove where your planning for the sink and the sink where your putting the stove now. The reason is very simple. You will spend 10x more time in front of the sink than you will in front of the stove. It would be nice to look outside when your making dinner, cleaning dishes, using the sink for everything else (shaving, washing your hands/face, equipment, fabrics etc.). Putting the stove there is simply a waste of space and ruins the 'feng shui' of the living space. The second reason you already mentioned. You have head clearance issues where your planning on putting the sink. With the stove there, you won't have to reach back there and that solves that problem naturally.
My vote is for a smaller but deeper sink. As for the heater, since your using hot water, radiant heated floor might be a option. No fans... Love the channel.
We are loving how Athena is coming along. You've gained so many skills since you began! We're just wondering if you'd considered getting a lock for the oven door? It would be awful to find your casserole on the galley floor after heeling!
Mads, we are headed to Tierra Del Fuego so have the same heating issues as you. I just installed a Heatercraft, Marine Heater, 200 Sport, which we bought through Fisheries Supply, in Seattle, Washington. It is made in Idaho so it is of good quality and not very loud running on either high or low speed. It looks like your Chinese heater but larger. It can be ducted to a vent location, but in my situation, I mounted the machine to have both vents blowing out of the cabinet, in which it is mounted. The vent covers have adjustable louvers. Used it last night in earnest, for the first time, sailing along the east African coast. Works fine. This heater is expensive, list $355 but there is a general lower price when ordered. In the U.S., I used to go down to the local car junk yard and buy an old car heater core with attached fan for $15 and install that in the back of my personal vans, and a power boat I owned. Hitting the junk yards here in S. Africa, it seems cars are now made with the aircon and heat, all in one permanent dash board fabrication. No one here, in the junk yards, had a clue what I was talking about so I rummaged through a bunch of old cars and unfortunately found car designs have changed. As another heat source, I just installed a Cubic Mini, wood burning stove. Happy heating! I do wonder if there are any plug in clothes.
Two things come to mind that have doubtless already gone through yours and into the plan. Sinks at sea need a plastic bowl to stop things crashing about and breaking. They also reduce water usage. So the choice of a sink for me would be defined by readily available bowls. Second is to be able to lock the stove gimble. On my boat, there is a rod mounted on the bottom of the stove that can be slid into a socket in the panel next to the stove. This prevents the whole lot swinging around when the boat is doing press-ups and you can't cook anyway. It also prevents tilting when the thing goes out of balance by opening the oven door - alongside or at anchor. You just seem to remember at sea...
I second a comment that was made down below about adding the sink to the island. His reasons of not bumping your head are good, I'd add that having the sink closer to the centerline of the boat reduces water sloshing significantly. I know this from experience, my first boat was a 30ft hunter, sink in the side, current boat a 47ft Stevens sink in the center island, a world of difference.
Things to consider; 1) make sure the bottom of sink is above the waterline at heel. 2) make sure you have working surfaces between the sink and the stove so that you can put pots, utensils, food prepared to be cooked etc. within reach.
It's awesome to see the amount of thought that goes into a working boat. The balance between perfect and good enough is a fine line. And perfection is an unfortunately unreachable goal. Your boat is designed for you, by you. This is probably as close to perfect as any boat will ever reach. Your explanations and logical reasoning for your choices are well thought out and informative. Purely for understanding the problems of boat design more clearly. You save the internet from the shallow instagram "Appearance is everything!" mentality without compromising on functionality. It's a beautiful boat and I hope it brings you as much pleasure using it as building it. Thanks for sharing the journey.
Hey Mads... just a thought, I noticed that you probably have about 8cm between the back of the stove and the gimbal housing. What I have seen is that other setups have a 45 degree angle at the bottom rear to allow for more swing. If you did this it might give you the swing you need without encroaching into the cabin anymore. It just means you taking the gimbal back to the workshop for a little more cutting.
@Mal L I think that the urge to make everything full sized, (especially sinks) and include all the usual on shore labour saving devices (washing machines) is definitely going to yield an overall result which is sub-optimal. Apart from the very different availability of space and energy, there are other constraints: water supply, for instance. There is a pretty stark choice between spending most of your leisure time fetching water (or fiddling with a desalinator and working a second job to pay for the energy) or finding ways to use about a tenth of the water you'd normally squander on shore. And a big-footprint sink, with pressure water, is an invitation to wastage on an epic scale. It also needs to be very deep if it's full sized, or the water will spill out. It can easily turn into a "death by 1000 tiny cuts" scenario for the cruising dream.
Toyota Camry 2015 heater core $35 new and the right size for a 120mm 12v pc fan $15. W1209 DC 12V -50 to +110 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat Thermometer fan would turn on when it detects heat from the heater core.
the heater for a car is also a 12 fan so why reinvent the wheel? There’s a reason why HVAC and cars all use a squirrel cage fan. They move a lot of air at lower speeds without a lot of noise. Unfortunately it’s a bit larger. Look for an air handler for a small car like a corolla or mini.
Heater: Get a small radiator and a couple of small PC fans. Encase is a small box and install. You could probably get away with a small transmission oil cooler meant for vehicles. Sink: Go with the small sink but make it extra deep. You may even consider a pot filler faucet. It can mount on the wall and swing out of the way.
Mads, Have you considered installing the sink in the island? Sailing Emerald Steel has their sink in the island and it looks like it works well. Also it would be closer to the centerline and might drain better. Really enjoy your vlog.
I recommend you put a deep sink on centerline in the island and then it won't fill with seawater when you're sailing on port tack. Keep the area next to the stove free for prep.
8:50 "Old man" nothing. It's a sailboat. Brace points while you've got your trousers around your ankles is only sensible. My single biggest and most constant complaint about the sailboat advertisements in the glossy magazines is that NONE of them seem to have enough things to grab onto above waist level. The boat WILL throw you without hanging on, so never be ashamed of adding more.
You mention a island countertop. If it’s wide enough, that could be better spot for the sink. I’ve always heard, the closer to the center line the better...for many reasons and you won’t be banging your...Ava’s head. Personally, I like a bigger sink that can fit pots and small soap soak container for silverware, misc items...and happy wife. Also, a faucet with a retractable head on a hose helps with cleaning. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. 👍👍👍
Angle the lower back edge of the box to 45 degrees , lower the support points to reduce the radius and also test swinging to the front (will limit the storage space underneath!). Good luck!
Hi my suggestion is to use the smaller sink 1. less water used 2 .when it's to rough you tend to put things in the sink and they don't smash , probably lots more reasons also cheers you are a doing a spiffy job
Look at Scania , Mann tractors , or farming supply for heaters. Also , its just a box with a fan and core..check out automobile supply for a heater core , supply your own fan and a rheostat to control the motor,unless you can build your own pwm motor speed control. The bonus to doing it lastly is you know what parts to get where if you need replacement parts..
Re. Your noisy heater matrix fans. While cheap fans can be more noisy, it’s fair to say that any high-flow fan is going to kick up a racket! Options: 1. Noise level is proportional to fan speed - slow down the existing fans for less noise. Maybe a switchable in-line resistance, or possibly a PWM controller. 2. Remote mount the matrix and use lagged flexible duct to route to the head output. This is what I have done and it makes a huge difference (longer duct = more sound attenuation obviously). One last thought. A gentle flow of heat into the head will be better than a ‘hair-dryer’ type blast. Continuous warmth will keep down rH and help prevent condensation (nothing worse than toilet paper that feels damp 😖). Question - do you even need blown air in the head? How about heating the floor directly, and a simple convection element? Great videos as always 🙂
Go the smaller sink, we have an even smaller one and that works fine. If your boat is healing over to 38 degrees, you ain’t going to want to be cooking, put a lock on the gimbal box to lock it in the upright position when things are bad. With your heater, try running the fans on 6 volts, they will blow less air but the space you re heating isn’t that big anyway.
Move the sink to your island. It will prevent flow back under the extreme heeling you are intending based on your gimbal solution and free up needed space near the cook surface for food preparation and handling. Of course a fitted cover to the sink can help be it will be a bit of a pain and you will find it stowed most of the time. We have found that it’s better to not cook when getting tossed about so your original position would be quite adequate.
You can build your own head heater with a little scrap sheet metal, an automotive heater core and a cabin air filter from the same parts store. Add the fan of choice and your in business. 😎
Hello. personally, i would install the sink in the island so that you have work space next to the stove - where you need it. This would also solve the problem of "headaches" when washing dishes under the window corner^^
We have that and it works well. However on a boat your head and two feet can be used to hold on while you wash dishes. I just though, how about ropes to bite on to hold still. That could work.
Nice gimbled stove solution. Hey if you're healing over more than 32° , you're probably not cooking.... I hope Ava or you don't hit your heads at the sink, how about a big sink on the central island? You could have grab bars to hang onto and plexiglass fiddles to keep the splashing to a minimum, cheers!
I would fillet (45 degree cut) the bottom of the stove box if you can, this would let you use more space for insulation and wiring. Also for the heater you can just use a heater core (matrix for you yank's :P) and a bowler fan, then build a box for it. You'd have to look for the size you want, but I think an old Mini core would be about the same size as the Chinesium unit you have.
With the use of insulated duct work, the noisy heater can be remotely sited away from living spaces. Or, remove the fans, box the heater into an enclosed duct and use one or more larger, silent intake fans above it on the cabin side (you don't want to heat up 'head' air) to draw air in and force it down through the radiator. You might want to put a vent in the bottom of the head door, since it will usually be kept closed, to allow the warm air into the cabin...
Ever considered going to an air fryer / pressure cooker system instead of a stove? They’re easier on the energy requirements and are better sealed. So even if you’re underway, food is contained inside. You don’t really give up on much in terms of cooking utility compared to an electric oven/stove top. They’re also dirt cheap compared to a marine stove. The size footprint is also reduced and could be stowed when not in use. We rarely even use our regular stove anymore.
Just seeing this now, so probably you've already installed the galley sink, (binge watching all your episodes), but I have an idea. How about installing the sink in the central counter you're planning. That would give you a centerline sink with I understand is preferable from the point of view of draining while heeled over. It would also give more counter space next to the stove.
as for the head heater issue ,, this is because your unit fans are set to full speed-high,, all you need to do is get a voltage control knob, allowing you to turn up and down the cfm as well as being able to mount the knob in a convenient location. This of course is a cheap and easy fix!
On the bottom of the oven weld on studs and use spare anods adds counter weight and spare parts and you know you have them and where they are. Your oven support in the back is going to come back and bite you you are now limited to that make and model of oven so in 10 years when it dies you'll be grinding it out to fit a slightly taller shorter or deeper one in. If you can avoid the water idea for the heater less chance of a leak and given the power usage from the oven and hob you should have plenty of spare power as long as you don't run everything at once. Say hi to ava and don't forget the flowers. Keep up the good work. And I take it you've run out of thickened epoxy for the head
Old volkswagon car heater and auto ducting can ease your life. Split duct between bathroom and sitting area/galley. They last forever, put out a ton of heat for small spaces, and are easy to repair or find parts for
Thank you Mads. I was wondering how the gimbaled box was going to work. Be sure that it is very close to level when you are cooking or your eggs will run to one side of the pan when you fry them and no one likes a lop sided fried egg! 8^) Have a good week.
Fantastic video - they are becoming very addictive! Firstly, the heater, I must have missed an episode but why a wet system when surely a warm air setup is so much easier to install and more efficient, plus it will hit condensation on the head and to say nothing about much lower maintenance and cost(Eberspacher). Two small sinks much better than one. Dishwasher makes a good secure store for all that cutlery and crockery, it doesn't need to be big. Square box and round hull don't mix, can the shape of the gumball housing be "massaged" at all? It's going to be one hell of a boat!
In reading one of Hal Roth's books, he said one thing he always did to his gimballed stoves was to add 40lbs of lead to the bottom of them, this made them stay very upright. Also one other thought, definitely need to put some plexi and an LED strip behind the 'Unobtanium 2000' logo!
There are probably a million production boats out there without that. I don't know anyone that does that. It was never required in our boats because you already have about 14 kilos of stove below the gimbal point. Ours are also just lift out with slider bolts in the bottom to lock them off if too rough or when not in use.
@@philgray1023 supposedly it makes it where you can open the door without engaging the locking bolts. My stove isn't gimballed, so it doesn't make a difference to me.
sink suggestion: there is a trend toward sink bowls that extend forward beyond the cabinet to which they are affixed. perhaps installing such a sink arrangement would allow your sink activities to be blissfully free of uninentional head-banging.
Good point however, I did a delivery on a boat exactly like that. The water from the sink regularly dripped down the front into the drawers in the cabinet below. A right royal pain that turned out to be. But that's what people want in their $600,000 sailboats ...
You could mount the big sink in the corner on the right (counter reaching towards the companionway) that would give you room behind for faucets, and counter space between the sink and stove. It would not need to be 45 degrees, just a little canted.
Small plastic or stainless squirrel cage fan should pump the air through. Lots of fan is needed in a bathroom. Remember in a boat corrosion is a big issue. Replace an electric motor in the Caribbean?
When you call your refit "somewhat extensive" i'm tempted to assume your battery bank will be more than somewhat substantial😉 On the heater issue, a car heater core and the fan that comes with it can be a very quiet and cheap solution. Have you considered a fanless solution? Was thinking along the lines of a heated floor in the head instead of a blower. Reliability-wise, electric motors will have a considerably shortened lifespan in moist, salty air.
I left a note before about the diesel heaters that are also a water heater and you can have floor or baseboard units off of the main unit these are used in high-end RVs.
Mads - I have done more than my fair share of offshore sailing in heavy seas. - the gimbal on the stove really doesn't need to account for that much heal. What seems to happen is that in frightful seas - food consumption falls off and people go to survival mode - usually, about 18 - 30hrs is the worst case. having a hot stove to cook in is a bit of a dream - moreover, you are a cruising sailor - not a racing obsessive nutcase. Organizing your food (provisioning -) better is a simpler option and getting through the - heavy weather. If you want a guide have a look at the rotation the latest Halberg Rassy has - good pedigree well thought out. similar operation window. food for thought.
Hi Mads, been watching and learning for years now. Thanks! As for the sink........my dishwasher (aka wife) has 2 sinks on our Ericson 38. She would go nuts with only one sink. Suggesting that Ava take the dimensions of your single sink and cut out cardboard and tape it over her sink at home and use it for a week. She cant cheat and use the second sink. Things to consider on this at least daily task are, where are the dirty dishes going to be kept pre wash, where is the salt water pre wash going to happen, where is the actual hot fresh water wash going to happen, then where are the dishes going to be rinsed with hot fresh water and finally, where are the clean dishes going to be put to drain/held for drying. Hope this helps.
Considering your huge power demands for everything else could you just consider a simple resistance heater for the head? Also, the taps don't have to be behind the sink. They can be mounted in the bulkhead/backsplash. That was pretty common in the 50's and 60's but is still very practical today.
Nice job with the box,Try putting an angle in the bottom of the box to give more clearance instead of moving the box forward ?It looked like you had some space inside the box to play with when the oven was inside it ,
The heater in the head is a need I recently decided on for the Eberspacher system I am installing in our Southerly 135. After some testing the 1200 watt electric heater I use aboard (I have two 2400 watt heaters but the shore supply will only support both on half without tripping the breaker) is sufficient to heat the head space quickly enough, but most importantly running the heater for one hour after a shower completely dries the head as long as the moist air can get out. So I have installed in each head a 2 speed 2kw heater with the intention to only run the fans at half. The fans are not silent but at half they are not that annoying, and for the room dry out, I won’t be in there. However I am confident that I will find silent air movers ..... there are many technologies. The Eberspacher supplied fan heat exchangers use 120 mm square computer type fans, for the record, ie, easy to swap out for something better. The other thing I have done is add dual switch loops so each cabin can turn on the head heater from the snuggled up position before leaving the warmth of the bed mid winter.
Hey Mads, Great video, as always. Really looking forward to seeing how the home made generator turns out. Just a quick one with regard to the sink. I would recommend having a double, even if the second sink is only very small. My first boat had only a single and it was really annoying when doing the washing up not to have anywhere to drain any unwanted liquid away. My current boat has a spiffy double sink which is so much more convenient. Just a thought. Cheers, James
You are probably not going to make any food when the boat is healed so much as 30 degrees ;) so the gimbal stovetop is good there. And with a smaller sink you would save some water so go for the smaller type just find a deep enough sink. Live aboard now on 6 year and left Norway in 2016 and in pacific now so some boat experience :)
To quiet down that heater fan, adding a resistor to step down the voltage would make it spin slower and (hopefully) quieter. Given the small size of the head compartment, you probably don't need a huge amount of airflow anyway.
Both those sinks seemed large enough so I vote for a smaller sink and would try to get the same volume by getting a deep one. If you still need clearance for insulation, you can also lower the point where your gimble is mounted to the enclosure and still be above the CG of the oven/stovetop. For instance, lowering it 2" would shorten the radius of the rear swing arc about an inch and a half.
I suspect that the variable weight of pots on the stove are going to change the level of the cooktop by more that 0.5 degrees. Seems like what you've got is PERFECT!
Mads. Go for two smaller sinks so you have somewhere to either put dirties or drying plates etc on passage. No one likes to spend time in the galley on passage and its an adaptation we have done on two boats now that makes life so much better...... But again, it's your boat, do what you like. 🤣👍Sail Safe. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
With the heater try replacing the chinese box fans with Noctua fans, you may not get the full air flow you currently get but they are very quiet fans and it probably worth trying.
Replace the fans with high quality computer fans. The difference in noise is amazing with a good fan. Also use the biggest fan that will fit. Bigger fans push more air at lower speed, thus less noise.
Heater: why aren't you using one of those forced air diesel heaters? You can get an 8kw heater and then mount it right next to your diesel generator and even run them off the same tank. Plus while you're working on the boat you can run it in the yard. Power draw is less than an amp. Our next boat is going to have an 8kw and a 2kw, 8kw to heat up the boat from cold and then 2kw to maintain, and/or hot backup (no pun intended)
Forced air heaters are (in my opinion) no good for living aboard. They're not designed for continuous operation. No matter if you go with one of the big brand names or a cheap knock off from China they won't last. They're fine if you're using your boat for weekends and vacations 🙂 I don't know if it's still the case but eberspacher used to put "Not intended for continuous operation" in their manuals. Also the warrenty only covers 2000 hours (eber and webasto). That's not a lot 🙂 I've seen other liveaboards have lots of problems with their forced air heaters. That plus running the ducting is a pain in the behind because of resistance (airflow) and heatloss. Hydronic heating makes much more sense for liveaboards in my opinion 🙂
Personally I'd fit the larger sink (as long as it's a deep sink) and have it closest side to the oven so hot pots can be placed straight into an empty sink for safety when on passages. You could add a smaller inner bowl to save excess water wastage for dish washing if your not fitting a watermaker
Exhaust gas from your generator can be used as a heatsource. It's practically the same as a diesel heater but you get the added benefit of electricity.
I would recommend using a larger sized PC fan or just getting low dB fans of that same size. PC fans would be quiet inexpensive, and if you put a had the space to put a larger diameter fan in the top of that heater you bought, you would likely see more airflow with less noise. I have heard the Noctua fans are really good.
i think the smaller of the two sinks would do just fine but make it deep. for the head heater you could use the small computer fans you mentioned which are pretty quiet in place of the existing fans
Hi The automotive heater is normally a system and the fan is separate from the heat exchanger. I don't think is usable with that amount of space available.
squirrel cage RV exhaust fan 12 volt and quite with that heater core you have bought from China. and you can control the speed with a 12 volt brushed motor speed control. I use this in my Air stream RV trailer
Heater unit, Take a look at Makuni diesel heaters and matrix fan unit I fitted one in my boat along with a towel radiator in the head and matrix in the main cabin. It worked really well the boat was always dry and warm.
Mads, if you do a google search for "country sinks for kitchens" you will see a type of sink that does not have a frame on the front, as the front of the sink is what is closest to the middle of the boat. You would then have that additional space to play with to get the sink size you want.
Cabinet maker for 45 years here. Full size elephant on the head sink. My vote for the bigger sink even if it takes cabin space. You won’t regret it. Happy wife happy life.
Sinks: small rather than large, deep rather than shallow.
You know it makes sense! :o)
Agreed. Consider two small deep sinks with a mixer-faucet and a rinsing spray.
I agree fully with Tim! Deep sink is more important. And two sinks rather then one is equally important. I know.....I do the dishes on our boat!!!
Agreed. Deep is more important than big. Too big a sink just lets things rattle around in it when underway.
i had this problem with my RV... wanted a bigger sink as the one it came with was too small, but a bigger residential sink was too big. Went with a deeper bar sink. Problem solved!
@@mikewebb4730 and covers/inserts for both to give you bench space when you don't need the sinks.
Do the bigger sink with a drying rack and a pot filler style sink. It would be wall mounted and manipulatible. You could also do a sprayer nozzle separate that could reach your pots that are on the stove. Love the videos! Been watching for 3 years!
One small other way to get a little more degree of tilt in the stove, is to additionally omit the small amount of hull insulation only where the stove meets the hull. Also, a bit of trivia, the recess at the bottom of the cabinets for one's feet is called a "toe kick" :) Never miss you guys' videos!
I suggest a interlock system for the stove, like many have. The gimbal does not need to swing when not in use and at some point you don't want to cook. Especially not at an heel angle of >30 degrees ;-)
+1!!!
Yeah! Yer not going to be cooking at more than 15-20 degrees. 30? Oh my!
Good god yes. This is just silly. I can't imagine anyone wanting to cook when heeled over even 20 degrees.
@@bobadam7021 Well I do because, no coffee no watch! I can't afford a jetboil according to my head accountant, aka the admiral. I also sail with Cape Horners who aren't happy unless the world is at 25 degrees plus.
You can't always predict when the boat is going to heel and to what degree when you're in the middle of a three course cook-up on a multi-day voyage at sea.
I continue to be impressed with your for thought. Most builders would bury the plumbing and wiring and forget them. Makes sense to plan access points. Deep sink and shallow water. If Ava decides to jib the boat you won't have a lap full of water.
Considering there is no dishwasher I would recommend checking the size of the sink against the size of the pots and pans that need to be cleaned. If they don’t fit it can be a pain.
When I showed my wife how I cleaned the pans by suspending them over the side on some "pot" lines. She was seriously unimpressed. Now my army of dishwashing fish are going hungry poor things.
@@philgray1023 Home ashore are the rightful domain for wives to wield executive power. The opposite needs to happen when the home takes to the sea. IMHO.
Sam Worthy If Ava has already requested a larger sink, it’s a moot point to go smaller. Although, going deeper is a must on a boat for many reasons: less spillage, others uses. You’ll want to hand wash clothes, bathe babies, etc. The idea to use the “farm sink” that extends out in the front is a good space saving idea that still has underneath mounting.
@@lydiaajohnson If Ava (or Mads, for that matter) were to include every "nice to have", the project would be a complete disaster. Neither party should have the right to insist on inclusion of items which involve space, weight, maintenance, unreliability, risk, energy use, cost, unsuitability and the like. A large-footprint sink ticks three of these boxes.
Different thinking is needed than ashore. Clothes, babies and the like can be washed in a multipurpose plastic crate which stows out of the way, and means those tasks can overlap in time (eg soaking stained laundry, baby swimming laps or voiding bowels)
Gottenhimfella Fair enough. I was going by what Mads said in the video. With the work completed thus far, I think he’s intelligent enough to determine which size will work. I’ve lived on a boat before, and know that trade-offs need to be made. I assumed that Mads and his fiancé had taken that into account. It’s their boat.
It is nice to have a fresh of coffee on the stove after you’ve rolled the boat. Seriously, it looks very professional and will last a life time. I like the smaller sink. Just get one that is a little deeper.
This is my first post even though I’ve been watching for several years. We cruise a 35-foot J boat for most of the summer. Choose the BIGGEST sink possible!!!! We end up putting all our dishes in the sink and then doing them all at once. But it fills up fast. From this woman to Ava - please pick the biggest sink! 😝
Thanks for the input, Laura! I am with you!
Mads, consider yourself outvoted...
Mads, just bite the bullet and use the heating system used on SV Basik. I like the idea of rounding the box and you should think about securing the stove from moving when opening the oven door, or when not in use for safety reasons. I also like the suggestion of weight in the bottom to lessen the movement for the cook.
I would consider moving the sink farther from the stove to give yourself a place to lay cooking utensils. Great vids.
Not much of a cook but have tried cooking in a kitchen with only 12"/30cm between sink and stove and it was a tough.
Alternately place some kind of plate over the sink, most times you do not use both sink and stove simultaneously.
MidnightAmratha A plate or better yet butcher block cutting board, so the are may server two purposes
Looked like you had space at the back of the box behind the stove to cut the bottom rear corner corner away, and replace with a 45° panel to accommodate the heel angle you need. More metalwork!
To be honest, I would put the stove where your planning for the sink and the sink where your putting the stove now. The reason is very simple. You will spend 10x more time in front of the sink than you will in front of the stove. It would be nice to look outside when your making dinner, cleaning dishes, using the sink for everything else (shaving, washing your hands/face, equipment, fabrics etc.). Putting the stove there is simply a waste of space and ruins the 'feng shui' of the living space. The second reason you already mentioned. You have head clearance issues where your planning on putting the sink. With the stove there, you won't have to reach back there and that solves that problem naturally.
Kinda like that idea, along with rounding oven box bottom so it can get in closer.
Agree, perhaps he was thinking not to place the stove next to fridge?
My vote is for a smaller but deeper sink. As for the heater, since your using hot water, radiant heated floor might be a option. No fans... Love the channel.
Consider warm water radiant heat in the bathroom sole. Very nice craftsmanship on the oven box. Well done.
All of my suggestions have already been voiced.
So, Thanks for sharing
We are loving how Athena is coming along. You've gained so many skills since you began! We're just wondering if you'd considered getting a lock for the oven door? It would be awful to find your casserole on the galley floor after heeling!
Mads, we are headed to Tierra Del Fuego so have the same heating issues as you. I just installed a Heatercraft, Marine Heater, 200 Sport, which we bought through Fisheries Supply, in Seattle, Washington. It is made in Idaho so it is of good quality and not very loud running on either high or low speed. It looks like your Chinese heater but larger. It can be ducted to a vent location, but in my situation, I mounted the machine to have both vents blowing out of the cabinet, in which it is mounted. The vent covers have adjustable louvers. Used it last night in earnest, for the first time, sailing along the east African coast. Works fine. This heater is expensive, list $355 but there is a general lower price when ordered. In the U.S., I used to go down to the local car junk yard and buy an old car heater core with attached fan for $15 and install that in the back of my personal vans, and a power boat I owned. Hitting the junk yards here in S. Africa, it seems cars are now made with the aircon and heat, all in one permanent dash board fabrication. No one here, in the junk yards, had a clue what I was talking about so I rummaged through a bunch of old cars and unfortunately found car designs have changed. As another heat source, I just installed a Cubic Mini, wood burning stove. Happy heating! I do wonder if there are any plug in clothes.
Two things come to mind that have doubtless already gone through yours and into the plan. Sinks at sea need a plastic bowl to stop things crashing about and breaking. They also reduce water usage. So the choice of a sink for me would be defined by readily available bowls. Second is to be able to lock the stove gimble. On my boat, there is a rod mounted on the bottom of the stove that can be slid into a socket in the panel next to the stove. This prevents the whole lot swinging around when the boat is doing press-ups and you can't cook anyway. It also prevents tilting when the thing goes out of balance by opening the oven door - alongside or at anchor. You just seem to remember at sea...
I second a comment that was made down below about adding the sink to the island. His reasons of not bumping your head are good, I'd add that having the sink closer to the centerline of the boat reduces water sloshing significantly. I know this from experience, my first boat was a 30ft hunter, sink in the side, current boat a 47ft Stevens sink in the center island, a world of difference.
Things to consider; 1) make sure the bottom of sink is above the waterline at heel. 2) make sure you have working surfaces between the sink and the stove so that you can put pots, utensils, food prepared to be cooked etc. within reach.
It's awesome to see the amount of thought that goes into a working boat. The balance between perfect and good enough is a fine line. And perfection is an unfortunately unreachable goal. Your boat is designed for you, by you. This is probably as close to perfect as any boat will ever reach. Your explanations and logical reasoning for your choices are well thought out and informative. Purely for understanding the problems of boat design more clearly. You save the internet from the shallow instagram "Appearance is everything!" mentality without compromising on functionality. It's a beautiful boat and I hope it brings you as much pleasure using it as building it. Thanks for sharing the journey.
just a suggestion but can't you round the back of the box?
Hey Mads... just a thought, I noticed that you probably have about 8cm between the back of the stove and the gimbal housing. What I have seen is that other setups have a 45 degree angle at the bottom rear to allow for more swing. If you did this it might give you the swing you need without encroaching into the cabin anymore. It just means you taking the gimbal back to the workshop for a little more cutting.
also possible it requires clearance, else yes, rounding or angle would help solve the issue.
Is there any room to take off a little corner of gimbal box back bottom corner? It will make a ton more of room, if there is any...
Going by the added support rail behind the oven, it should be possible to shave about 50mm off the bottom edge at the back.
@Mal L I think that the urge to make everything full sized, (especially sinks) and include all the usual on shore labour saving devices (washing machines) is definitely going to yield an overall result which is sub-optimal.
Apart from the very different availability of space and energy, there are other constraints: water supply, for instance. There is a pretty stark choice between spending most of your leisure time fetching water (or fiddling with a desalinator and working a second job to pay for the energy) or finding ways to use about a tenth of the water you'd normally squander on shore.
And a big-footprint sink, with pressure water, is an invitation to wastage on an epic scale. It also needs to be very deep if it's full sized, or the water will spill out. It can easily turn into a "death by 1000 tiny cuts" scenario for the cruising dream.
Would it be possible to angle the lower back edge of the stove box to allow it to pivot further? Similar to the top edge.
You beat out the superbowl half time show. congrats.
You could use a car heater from the Junkyard quiet and inexpensive ! The under the dash one
A transmission cooler :)
@@PrivateUsername Exactly my solution!
In the US JEGS sells complete units for under $200 US.
Toyota Camry 2015 heater core $35 new and the right size for a 120mm 12v pc fan $15.
W1209 DC 12V -50 to +110 Temperature Control Switch Thermostat Thermometer
fan would turn on when it detects heat from the heater core.
the heater for a car is also a 12 fan so why reinvent the wheel? There’s a reason why HVAC and cars all use a squirrel cage fan. They move a lot of air at lower speeds without a lot of noise. Unfortunately it’s a bit larger. Look for an air handler for a small car like a corolla or mini.
Heater: Get a small radiator and a couple of small PC fans. Encase is a small box and install. You could probably get away with a small transmission oil cooler meant for vehicles.
Sink: Go with the small sink but make it extra deep. You may even consider a pot filler faucet. It can mount on the wall and swing out of the way.
Mads,
Have you considered installing the sink in the island? Sailing Emerald Steel has their sink in the island and it looks like it works well. Also it would be closer to the centerline and might drain better. Really enjoy your vlog.
I recommend you put a deep sink on centerline in the island and then it won't fill with seawater when you're sailing on port tack. Keep the area next to the stove free for prep.
Small sink, but really deep....enjoy you vids
8:50 "Old man" nothing. It's a sailboat. Brace points while you've got your trousers around your ankles is only sensible. My single biggest and most constant complaint about the sailboat advertisements in the glossy magazines is that NONE of them seem to have enough things to grab onto above waist level. The boat WILL throw you without hanging on, so never be ashamed of adding more.
You mention a island countertop. If it’s wide enough, that could be better spot for the sink. I’ve always heard, the closer to the center line the better...for many reasons and you won’t be banging your...Ava’s head. Personally, I like a bigger sink that can fit pots and small soap soak container for silverware, misc items...and happy wife. Also, a faucet with a retractable head on a hose helps with cleaning. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. 👍👍👍
Glorious glorious welding!
I wish I had access to that shop for about 2 weeks lol good job your a very handy guy
try replacing the fans in the Chinese heater with some silent computer fans
Angle the lower back edge of the box to 45 degrees , lower the support points to reduce the radius and also test swinging to the front (will limit the storage space underneath!). Good luck!
Hi my suggestion is to use the smaller sink 1. less water used 2 .when it's to rough you tend to put things in the sink and they don't smash , probably lots more reasons also cheers you are a doing a spiffy job
Look at Scania , Mann tractors , or farming supply for heaters. Also , its just a box with a fan and core..check out automobile supply for a heater core , supply your own fan and a rheostat to control the motor,unless you can build your own pwm motor speed control.
The bonus to doing it lastly is you know what parts to get where if you need replacement parts..
Re. Your noisy heater matrix fans. While cheap fans can be more noisy, it’s fair to say that any high-flow fan is going to kick up a racket!
Options:
1. Noise level is proportional to fan speed - slow down the existing fans for less noise. Maybe a switchable in-line resistance, or possibly a PWM controller.
2. Remote mount the matrix and use lagged flexible duct to route to the head output. This is what I have done and it makes a huge difference (longer duct = more sound attenuation obviously).
One last thought. A gentle flow of heat into the head will be better than a ‘hair-dryer’ type blast. Continuous warmth will keep down rH and help prevent condensation (nothing worse than toilet paper that feels damp 😖).
Question - do you even need blown air in the head? How about heating the floor directly, and a simple convection element?
Great videos as always 🙂
Go the smaller sink, we have an even smaller one and that works fine. If your boat is healing over to 38 degrees, you ain’t going to want to be cooking, put a lock on the gimbal box to lock it in the upright position when things are bad. With your heater, try running the fans on 6 volts, they will blow less air but the space you re heating isn’t that big anyway.
Move the sink to your island. It will prevent flow back under the extreme heeling you are intending based on your gimbal solution and free up needed space near the cook surface for food preparation and handling. Of course a fitted cover to the sink can help be it will be a bit of a pain and you will find it stowed most of the time. We have found that it’s better to not cook when getting tossed about so your original position would be quite adequate.
You can build your own head heater with a little scrap sheet metal, an automotive heater core and a cabin air filter from the same parts store. Add the fan of choice and your in business. 😎
You can also mount the sink in the Island. That way it is closer to the centreline of the boat and that improves drainage under heel.
Hello. personally, i would install the sink in the island so that you have work space next to the stove - where you need it. This would also solve the problem of "headaches" when washing dishes under the window corner^^
We have that and it works well. However on a boat your head and two feet can be used to hold on while you wash dishes. I just though, how about ropes to bite on to hold still. That could work.
I do like the propane-free boat concept. Good choice!
Nice gimbled stove solution. Hey if you're healing over more than 32° , you're probably not cooking....
I hope Ava or you don't hit your heads at the sink, how about a big sink on the central island? You could have grab bars to hang onto and plexiglass fiddles to keep the splashing to a minimum, cheers!
Always so cheerful!
I would fillet (45 degree cut) the bottom of the stove box if you can, this would let you use more space for insulation and wiring. Also for the heater you can just use a heater core (matrix for you yank's :P) and a bowler fan, then build a box for it. You'd have to look for the size you want, but I think an old Mini core would be about the same size as the Chinesium unit you have.
With the use of insulated duct work, the noisy heater can be remotely sited away from living spaces. Or, remove the fans, box the heater into an enclosed duct and use one or more larger, silent intake fans above it on the cabin side (you don't want to heat up 'head' air) to draw air in and force it down through the radiator. You might want to put a vent in the bottom of the head door, since it will usually be kept closed, to allow the warm air into the cabin...
The amount of work you have done so far, on this boat and the work still to do .is mind boggling ...🤯
Ever considered going to an air fryer / pressure cooker system instead of a stove? They’re easier on the energy requirements and are better sealed. So even if you’re underway, food is contained inside.
You don’t really give up on much in terms of cooking utility compared to an electric oven/stove top. They’re also dirt cheap compared to a marine stove. The size footprint is also reduced and could be stowed when not in use.
We rarely even use our regular stove anymore.
Just seeing this now, so probably you've already installed the galley sink, (binge watching all your episodes), but I have an idea. How about installing the sink in the central counter you're planning. That would give you a centerline sink with I understand is preferable from the point of view of draining while heeled over. It would also give more counter space next to the stove.
As usual, a very good video.
My gimbled stoves always had an angle on the bottom rear so the stove would not bind on the hull.
as for the head heater issue ,, this is because your unit fans are set to full speed-high,, all you need to do is get a voltage control knob, allowing you to turn up and down the cfm as well as being able to mount the knob in a convenient location. This of course is a cheap and easy fix!
You could use a single handle faucet and put it on the right hand side of the sink towards the back? Then she gets her large sink.
On the bottom of the oven weld on studs and use spare anods adds counter weight and spare parts and you know you have them and where they are. Your oven support in the back is going to come back and bite you you are now limited to that make and model of oven so in 10 years when it dies you'll be grinding it out to fit a slightly taller shorter or deeper one in. If you can avoid the water idea for the heater less chance of a leak and given the power usage from the oven and hob you should have plenty of spare power as long as you don't run everything at once. Say hi to ava and don't forget the flowers. Keep up the good work. And I take it you've run out of thickened epoxy for the head
Old volkswagon car heater and auto ducting can ease your life. Split duct between bathroom and sitting area/galley. They last forever, put out a ton of heat for small spaces, and are easy to repair or find parts for
Thank you Mads. I was wondering how the gimbaled box was going to work. Be sure that it is very close to level when you are cooking or your eggs will run to one side of the pan when you fry them and no one likes a lop sided fried egg! 8^) Have a good week.
You haven't mentioned your snazzy new overalls. Very nice
Fantastic video - they are becoming very addictive! Firstly, the heater, I must have missed an episode but why a wet system when surely a warm air setup is so much easier to install and more efficient, plus it will hit condensation on the head and to say nothing about much lower maintenance and cost(Eberspacher). Two small sinks much better than one. Dishwasher makes a good secure store for all that cutlery and crockery, it doesn't need to be big. Square box and round hull don't mix, can the shape of the gumball housing be "massaged" at all? It's going to be one hell of a boat!
Put the sink in the island. Use the area next to the stove for prep.
Thank goodness you survived! My Sundays would never be the same, lol 😎.
In reading one of Hal Roth's books, he said one thing he always did to his gimballed stoves was to add 40lbs of lead to the bottom of them, this made them stay very upright.
Also one other thought, definitely need to put some plexi and an LED strip behind the 'Unobtanium 2000' logo!
I wonder where he obtained so much Unobtainium to make that stove.
That stuff is so rare it is practically unobtainable.
I have seen that before. At least 40 pounds.
@@Bill23799 Scuba Shop will have lead weights. Or look for scuba weights on eBay.
There are probably a million production boats out there without that. I don't know anyone that does that. It was never required in our boats because you already have about 14 kilos of stove below the gimbal point. Ours are also just lift out with slider bolts in the bottom to lock them off if too rough or when not in use.
@@philgray1023 supposedly it makes it where you can open the door without engaging the locking bolts.
My stove isn't gimballed, so it doesn't make a difference to me.
sink suggestion: there is a trend toward sink bowls that extend forward beyond the cabinet to which they are affixed. perhaps installing such a sink arrangement would allow your sink activities to be blissfully free of uninentional head-banging.
Good point however, I did a delivery on a boat exactly like that. The water from the sink regularly dripped down the front into the drawers in the cabinet below. A right royal pain that turned out to be. But that's what people want in their $600,000 sailboats ...
You could mount the big sink in the corner on the right (counter reaching towards the companionway) that would give you room behind for faucets, and counter space between the sink and stove. It would not need to be 45 degrees, just a little canted.
Small plastic or stainless squirrel cage fan should pump the air through. Lots of fan is needed in a bathroom. Remember in a boat corrosion is a big issue. Replace an electric motor in the Caribbean?
When you call your refit "somewhat extensive" i'm tempted to assume your battery bank will be more than somewhat substantial😉 On the heater issue, a car heater core and the fan that comes with it can be a very quiet and cheap solution. Have you considered a fanless solution? Was thinking along the lines of a heated floor in the head instead of a blower. Reliability-wise, electric motors will have a considerably shortened lifespan in moist, salty air.
I left a note before about the diesel heaters that are also a water heater and you can have floor or baseboard units off of the main unit these are used in high-end RVs.
Mads - I have done more than my fair share of offshore sailing in heavy seas. - the gimbal on the stove really doesn't need to account for that much heal. What seems to happen is that in frightful seas - food consumption falls off and people go to survival mode - usually, about 18 - 30hrs is the worst case. having a hot stove to cook in is a bit of a dream - moreover, you are a cruising sailor - not a racing obsessive nutcase. Organizing your food (provisioning -) better is a simpler option and getting through the - heavy weather. If you want a guide have a look at the rotation the latest Halberg Rassy has - good pedigree well thought out. similar operation window. food for thought.
Hi Mads, been watching and learning for years now. Thanks! As for the sink........my dishwasher (aka wife) has 2 sinks on our Ericson 38. She would go nuts with only one sink. Suggesting that Ava take the dimensions of your single sink and cut out cardboard and tape it over her sink at home and use it for a week. She cant cheat and use the second sink. Things to consider on this at least daily task are, where are the dirty dishes going to be kept pre wash, where is the salt water pre wash going to happen, where is the actual hot fresh water wash going to happen, then where are the dishes going to be rinsed with hot fresh water and finally, where are the clean dishes going to be put to drain/held for drying. Hope this helps.
Considering your huge power demands for everything else could you just consider a simple resistance heater for the head? Also, the taps don't have to be behind the sink. They can be mounted in the bulkhead/backsplash. That was pretty common in the 50's and 60's but is still very practical today.
Another great video Mads!
In my opinion mads you are an A1 boat builder now ! lol how about dropping in to the gold coast of Australia & building my boat lol!
Nice job with the box,Try putting an angle in the bottom of the box to give more clearance instead of moving the box forward ?It looked like you had some space inside the box to play with when the oven was inside it ,
The heater in the head is a need I recently decided on for the Eberspacher system I am installing in our Southerly 135. After some testing the 1200 watt electric heater I use aboard (I have two 2400 watt heaters but the shore supply will only support both on half without tripping the breaker) is sufficient to heat the head space quickly enough, but most importantly running the heater for one hour after a shower completely dries the head as long as the moist air can get out. So I have installed in each head a 2 speed 2kw heater with the intention to only run the fans at half. The fans are not silent but at half they are not that annoying, and for the room dry out, I won’t be in there. However I am confident that I will find silent air movers ..... there are many technologies. The Eberspacher supplied fan heat exchangers use 120 mm square computer type fans, for the record, ie, easy to swap out for something better. The other thing I have done is add dual switch loops so each cabin can turn on the head heater from the snuggled up position before leaving the warmth of the bed mid winter.
What size/type battery bank are you having....looking at the wattage/amps of the oven/hob, i would guess...nuclear lol ?
Heater: Webasto Florida 3.
Here in Germany it costs about 200€
Hey Mads,
Great video, as always. Really looking forward to seeing how the home made generator turns out. Just a quick one with regard to the sink. I would recommend having a double, even if the second sink is only very small. My first boat had only a single and it was really annoying when doing the washing up not to have anywhere to drain any unwanted liquid away. My current boat has a spiffy double sink which is so much more convenient. Just a thought. Cheers, James
Coming along nicely.
You are probably not going to make any food when the boat is healed so much as 30 degrees ;) so the gimbal stovetop is good there. And with a smaller sink you would save some water so go for the smaller type just find a deep enough sink. Live aboard now on 6 year and left Norway in 2016 and in pacific now so some boat experience :)
To quiet down that heater fan, adding a resistor to step down the voltage would make it spin slower and (hopefully) quieter. Given the small size of the head compartment, you probably don't need a huge amount of airflow anyway.
for the heater, wood stove, diesel heater, heated towel rack, under floor heater
Both those sinks seemed large enough so I vote for a smaller sink and would try to get the same volume by getting a deep one. If you still need clearance for insulation, you can also lower the point where your gimble is mounted to the enclosure and still be above the CG of the oven/stovetop. For instance, lowering it 2" would shorten the radius of the rear swing arc about an inch and a half.
I suspect that the variable weight of pots on the stove are going to change the level of the cooktop by more that 0.5 degrees. Seems like what you've got is PERFECT!
Mads. Go for two smaller sinks so you have somewhere to either put dirties or drying plates etc on passage. No one likes to spend time in the galley on passage and its an adaptation we have done on two boats now that makes life so much better...... But again, it's your boat, do what you like. 🤣👍Sail Safe. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
With the heater try replacing the chinese box fans with Noctua fans, you may not get the full air flow you currently get but they are very quiet fans and it probably worth trying.
Replace the fans with high quality computer fans. The difference in noise is amazing with a good fan. Also use the biggest fan that will fit. Bigger fans push more air at lower speed, thus less noise.
Heater: why aren't you using one of those forced air diesel heaters? You can get an 8kw heater and then mount it right next to your diesel generator and even run them off the same tank. Plus while you're working on the boat you can run it in the yard. Power draw is less than an amp. Our next boat is going to have an 8kw and a 2kw, 8kw to heat up the boat from cold and then 2kw to maintain, and/or hot backup (no pun intended)
Forced air heaters are (in my opinion) no good for living aboard. They're not designed for continuous operation. No matter if you go with one of the big brand names or a cheap knock off from China they won't last. They're fine if you're using your boat for weekends and vacations 🙂 I don't know if it's still the case but eberspacher used to put "Not intended for continuous operation" in their manuals. Also the warrenty only covers 2000 hours (eber and webasto). That's not a lot 🙂 I've seen other liveaboards have lots of problems with their forced air heaters. That plus running the ducting is a pain in the behind because of resistance (airflow) and heatloss. Hydronic heating makes much more sense for liveaboards in my opinion 🙂
Personally I'd fit the larger sink (as long as it's a deep sink) and have it closest side to the oven so hot pots can be placed straight into an empty sink for safety when on passages. You could add a smaller inner bowl to save excess water wastage for dish washing if your not fitting a watermaker
Exhaust gas from your generator can be used as a heatsource. It's practically the same as a diesel heater but you get the added benefit of electricity.
it would be cool to have the sink in the kitchen island!
I would recommend using a larger sized PC fan or just getting low dB fans of that same size. PC fans would be quiet inexpensive, and if you put a had the space to put a larger diameter fan in the top of that heater you bought, you would likely see more airflow with less noise. I have heard the Noctua fans
are really good.
Put some small blowers on the back of that heater, job done.
i think the smaller of the two sinks would do just fine but make it deep. for the head heater you could use the small computer fans you mentioned which are pretty quiet in place of the existing fans
Sink: Faucet mounted on the right side?
Heater: Use an automotive heater core?
Stove: Round off the bottom back lower corner?
Just some thoughts...
Hi The automotive heater is normally a system and the fan is separate from the heat exchanger. I don't think is usable with that amount of space available.
I was going to suggest an automotive heater core as well. It would be easy enough to use it with an 12v low speed high volume type fan.
It did appear that the stove doesn't slide all the way back so rounding off might be a thing to try.
squirrel cage RV exhaust fan 12 volt and quite with that heater core you have bought from China. and you can control the speed with a 12 volt brushed motor speed control. I use this in my Air stream RV trailer
I was going to suggest a bevel (easier than a curved surface) at the bottom rear corner
Heater unit, Take a look at Makuni diesel heaters and matrix fan unit I fitted one in my boat along with a towel radiator in the head and matrix in the main cabin. It worked really well the boat was always dry and warm.
16oz cup, faucets??? Are you going start measuring in inches soon? 🇪🇺
I was thinking the exact same thing.... 😂
Regardless, still awesome content!
Mads, if you do a google search for "country sinks for kitchens" you will see a type of sink that does not have a frame on the front, as the front of the sink is what is closest to the middle of the boat. You would then have that additional space to play with to get the sink size you want.