Fantastic video Nejc. This one is definitely a keeper. As always, very detailed and informative. You always allow your audience the feeling of "Anyone can do this" because of your accurate informative delivery on screen. As always, a pleasure to view and be part of your audience. Cheers from Canada.
Anybody watching this should definitely check out the silver halide deep dive they did on photographic chemistry here! th-cam.com/play/PLH0WXCtI2nohKlrEttrVDp6vLE4Cg0qdr.html
El uso del cloruro de sodio está más recomendado para hacer emulsiones lentas, o sea, para hacer papel sensible ( como el papel de ampliación). Para emulsiones rápidas tipo película fotográfica, es mejor el bromuro en conjunción con el yoduro. Todo esto es un aprendizaje maravilloso. Desde Sudamérica recibe un abrazo!!
I am in USA. I cannot find Timol. Is there another name for it? I noticed you said it is used as a preservative, but I did not see you add it. Did I miss that part? Thank you for this excellent video.
Great job!! One question, why Tymol, and not Formol? It maybe works fine as a preservative, with a some drops. And if you will use a colorant for ortochromatize or pancro, where your added, at the end in last melt? Thanks.
Woww this is lot of work !!! How many 4x5" dry plates you can makes with this quantity? So do you make a bigger quantity when you prepare your dry plates in a row? Great job, as always ;-)
Thank you so much! I've been researching photographic emulsions for some months now and gathering materials to make my own, your video was of great great help! Now I can start baking the photo jelly with more confidence, I'm so happy! I will be following your channel and sharing it with everyone I know
Do you know where I can find some info on how you would go about homogenizing and regulating the crystal size and shape development? Is this something a hobbyist could do?
Friend, I'm little by little buying the list of accessories you mention, but because I don't have a magnetic stirrer with temperature, is there any way I can make the emulsion without having the stirrer with temperature? my intention is to produce plates for hologram.
Huh that would be hard but deffinetly not impossible. The thing is that you have to keep the emulsion at constant temperature in order to allow cristals to grow. When I started I just used a one pot stove and mixed by hand so yes just go and give it a try!
For all the Chinese speaker, here is the needed recipe & equipments from the video 他用的所有材料與工具，翻譯如下（如有錯誤請糾正我，謝謝） 材料： 蒸餾水 1L 溴化鉀 10.5g 碘化鉀 0.4g 硝酸銀 12g 攝影級吉利丁 21g (at least 240 bloom) Timul明膠 64.8g 95%酒精 5ml 工具： 保護手套、眼鏡 500ml燒杯*1 250ml燒杯*2 玻璃盤（深） 電磁加熱攪拌器 Crock pot 電子測溫筆 電子秤 量杯 不鏽鋼大碗 搗泥器 不鏽鋼湯匙幾隻 尼龍布25×25cm 大針筒（需改造出孔） 碼錶 不鏽鋼過濾器 製冰條串（冷卻用） 冰箱 防光暗袋（能放入玻璃盤） 防光化學材料試劑瓶 暗房、安全燈
Hi man , great video. Im will try to make my own emulsion following your instructions but I can’t find in Spain the Thymol ingredient. Is there any other ingredient that I can use instead ?
Tymol is not essential it just makes the emulsion last longer. You can try making one without first to see how and if it works 😊 Tymol is traditionally used for over a decade
Hi, I'm about to buy the LED to keep the red environment, it needs to be the LED strip, or it can be a normal all red lamp. And I didn't find red LED tape either, only blue can it be?
nice video, but, for beginners, what is the differnce between this "dry plate" and "wet plate", ie the colloiden process, as to my novice eye they look like the same thing, and could you explain the coating, and the holders for these plates.
Hey Andy, Actually dry plates where invented in-order to replace wet-plate process with a few advance features mostly regarding handling and use of plates. Dry plates are coated with emulsion and dried meaning they don't need to be shot right away like we-plate but can be stored and used months or even years later. You can load as many as you want into the special plate holders at home, carry them out in the field, expose and then develop them when you return just like with modern film sheet. Because of that there is no need to carry a portable darkroom and chemicals along with you on the trip like it is required with wet-plates ;) I hope I answered your question :)
Wet collodion plates are coated with a nitrocellulose solution containing only the iodide and bromide. Then the plate is dipped into a silver solution. The plate must remain wet during the exposure and up to the point of development. Gelatin emulsion dry plates are coated with a solution of hot gelatin containing both the iodides/bromides and the silver. After coating the plates are allowed to dry completely before placing in a camera.
Good stuff! I might give it a try so I can make custom size dry plates. Also- have you ever tried using different salts? I see you used KBr, how would other salts like NH4Br, KCl, or NaCl affect the emulsion?
Hey Calvin. Thanks. Other salts mostly result in a different crystal structure and therefore incresed speet. But higher the speed the bigger the risk of emulsion fogging!
Great stuff! I've been wanting to do some holography using dichromated gelatin, but would be even better to use some other process that lacks the chrome. Hopefully this will be it.
Probably you already know but have you tried using the ferric gelatin process? It uses ferric ammonium oxalate or ferric ammonium citrate as the sensitizer, the developer is a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide. It works with 405nm lasers.
@@teresashinkansen9402 actually, no. I haven't heard of that chemistry reagents being used to create/process holographic plates. Maybe I was too focused into researching for dichromate salts, while also trying to identify (in very few cases,.understand) as many variables and constraints related to the whole endeavor of doing it from "scratch", that i never considered looking for other options. Besides the classic AgX process, that's why I'm watching this. I really appreciate your generosity and kindness, thanks for taking the time to reply and being so helpful. Hopefully, this is the path to take towards producing a real hologram. But, in the very least, it has revive my desire to finally get there. Thank you, very much, again. And have a great day!
Hey Patrick. Hope you are doing well. Yes I was planing this for a long time but just didnt find the time. Oh well I filmed and edited this one yeasterday 😅
It is great to see a walk through of this online. There are very few of them. It is funny I use exactly the same IKEA tray for chilling my emulsions. IKEA is your friend when doing historical photo techniques. The drying racks are great. I use a lot less gelatine. I make a stock solution of iodide so as not to have to measure sub 1g amounts. I gave up on the potato ricer and just mash the gelatine with a plastic fork. I wash noodles in tap water but five washes. I stopped adding thymol because someone said it wasn't needed unless you kept the emulsion for months. I don't add alum because I don't get any peeling - maybe it is the Bellini gelatine I use. I use Ilford PQ 1:19 as the developer. I often forget to add the alcohol final and it doesn't make a difference to pouring as far as I can see. I do add 2 drops of Erythrosine at the start to try and get some green response but I'm not convinced it makes any difference. It is the one thing I struggle with so I stick to UV/Blue emulsions for now. I have extended ripening up to 1 hour at 60C and don't get any fogging - or much more speed either unfortunately. I get a strange kick out of making emulsion and exposing glass plates. Buying film seems like cheating now!
Yes, it's great to see a demo of this - I must say, i'm surprised to find it after so little searching - information on many of the old processes (photo and non-photo related) is often very difficult to find! But I am still wondering; is there a simple alternative to gelatin (maybe a simple starch-vinegar polymer?) And is it possible to recycle photos and make new emulsion, by reclaiming the Silver? For example, you have a limited amount of Silver at your village/hovel and want to continuously recycle old photos. Or simply just have old photos which you don't want to keep and which could be recycled - Are there any losses of Silver during a photos lifespan? Not so much from preventable scratches, but is Silver somehow lost in the atmosphere, or degrades and falls off, etc? Or it it all retained on the substrate and could effectively be recycled? Thanks!
@@Kyle-sg4rm People (whole industries) spent 100 years trying to find a gelatine alternative and they failed. You can do collodion, even dry collodion but it is very insensitive. You could also do callotypes or one of the improved paper negatives from mid 19th century but they are tricky with getting the paper right and very slow. Gelatine has magical qualities. Yes you can reclaim silver and reuse it but it isn't worthwhile unless you are running a small factory. It also isn't particularly toxic in its metal form (we eat off it). Silver Nitrate is £1/g. 20+ 4x5 plates might cost £10 in chemistry? A lot stays in the image. Some you'd never recover. So financial and ecologically it isn't worth it for amateurs. If you're running a major lab it is a different story.
@@RogerHyam A small factory is probably what you would need in regards to gear - especially if Technicolor is being considered. I'm wondering if there is some information about other materials which were experimented with, which may have been successful to some extent, but perhaps weren't as cost effective and/or as good as Gelatin. Maybe Agar? Alternative dyes, etc, for Technicolor could be the more difficult part.
Hello, l enjoy your videos. I have a question : what's the difference between blue- sensitive x-ray film and dry plate emulsion? Thanks. Regards. Andrew
Very well done! It is good to see what i have read in my vintage book from Eder… Do you plan a panchromatic emulsion and antihalation layer on your glass plates? Subscribed your channel…
@@SD_Alias I have actualy made mine from VR googles with phone camera from which I took out IR filter. A bit lagy as I used an old phone but it works for 40€
Good video (so far, haven't finished yet), but you might wanna work you you math skills a wee bit LOL. 250 years? From 1880? I think you carried one too many 1's :D
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? [โกงไหมครับ ep.88 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Live] ศึกมหึมันส์มวยไทยสังเวียนเดือด เวทีมวยชั่วคราวสวนสยาม | จันทร์ 30 กันยายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pM1k6f7JXUc/mqdefault.jpg)
I wonder how the inventor of this process got till this succesful result. Many trials and fails probably.
Fantastic video Nejc. This one is definitely a keeper. As always, very detailed and informative. You always allow your audience the feeling of "Anyone can do this" because of your accurate informative delivery on screen. As always, a pleasure to view and be part of your audience. Cheers from Canada.
Thanks Wayne. Reading your comments always puts a smile on my face and reassures me that my intention was achieved :)
I love the way you make quick videos. All content no babble!
Thank you Randy!
Anybody watching this should definitely check out the silver halide deep dive they did on photographic chemistry here! th-cam.com/play/PLH0WXCtI2nohKlrEttrVDp6vLE4Cg0qdr.html
Very nicely done. Like your video! Cheers from Rochester, NY Mark Osterman
Is it possible to use this method for POGs holograms?
I mean.. I want to create hologram on small round plastic/paper
Can i use Sodium Chloride instead of potassium bromide?
El uso del cloruro de sodio está más recomendado para hacer emulsiones lentas, o sea, para hacer papel sensible ( como el papel de ampliación). Para emulsiones rápidas tipo película fotográfica, es mejor el bromuro en conjunción con el yoduro. Todo esto es un aprendizaje maravilloso. Desde Sudamérica recibe un abrazo!!
How much Chrom Alum did you add, and when did you add it to your emulsion?
I am in USA. I cannot find Timol. Is there another name for it? I noticed you said it is used as a preservative, but I did not see you add it. Did I miss that part? Thank you for this excellent video.
Thymol
Great job!!
One question, why Tymol, and not Formol? It maybe works fine as a preservative, with a some drops.
And if you will use a colorant for ortochromatize or pancro, where your added, at the end in last melt?
Thanks.
Absolutely amazing video, SO INSPIRING! I know what I want to try next.
Thank you Lina 🙏
Woww this is lot of work !!!
How many 4x5" dry plates you can makes with this quantity?
So do you make a bigger quantity when you prepare your dry plates in a row?
Great job, as always ;-)
Hey. Thanks. With this you get about 350ml of emulsion and that is enough for around 120plates depending of the layer thickness of course 😊
Thank you so much! I've been researching photographic emulsions for some months now and gathering materials to make my own, your video was of great great help! Now I can start baking the photo jelly with more confidence, I'm so happy! I will be following your channel and sharing it with everyone I know
You are welcome 🤗
Just to be clear... that 12 grams of silver nitrate ? +120usd? ouch
Do you know where I can find some info on how you would go about homogenizing and regulating the crystal size and shape development? Is this something a hobbyist could do?
Friend, I'm little by little buying the list of accessories you mention, but because I don't have a magnetic stirrer with temperature, is there any way I can make the emulsion without having the stirrer with temperature? my intention is to produce plates for hologram.
Huh that would be hard but deffinetly not impossible. The thing is that you have to keep the emulsion at constant temperature in order to allow cristals to grow. When I started I just used a one pot stove and mixed by hand so yes just go and give it a try!
For all the Chinese speaker, here is the needed recipe & equipments from the video 他用的所有材料與工具，翻譯如下（如有錯誤請糾正我，謝謝）
材料：
蒸餾水 1L
溴化鉀 10.5g
碘化鉀 0.4g
硝酸銀 12g
攝影級吉利丁 21g (at least 240 bloom)
Timul明膠 64.8g
95%酒精 5ml
工具：
保護手套、眼鏡
500ml燒杯*1
250ml燒杯*2
玻璃盤（深）
電磁加熱攪拌器
Crock pot
電子測溫筆
電子秤
量杯
不鏽鋼大碗
搗泥器
不鏽鋼湯匙幾隻
尼龍布25×25cm
大針筒（需改造出孔）
碼錶
不鏽鋼過濾器
製冰條串（冷卻用）
冰箱
防光暗袋（能放入玻璃盤）
防光化學材料試劑瓶
暗房、安全燈
Amazing thanks for sharing 💪
No thanks. Freestyle Photo Hollywood is a just a 30 minute bus ride up the street.
Where did you bougth silver nitrate ? In slovenia ?
Thank goodness there's not too much work involved.
Great video, as usual. I’ve watched twice but didn’t see in the materials list the exact chocolate used for the break time snack.
I linked a blog post under the video so you can check the recipe at your own pace 😉
Are the chemicals easy to get by anyone or you need some chemyst licence?
Hi man , great video. Im will try to make my own emulsion following your instructions but I can’t find in Spain the Thymol ingredient. Is there any other ingredient that I can use instead ?
Tymol is not essential it just makes the emulsion last longer. You can try making one without first to see how and if it works 😊 Tymol is traditionally used for over a decade
I want to know how much chromium alum should be added
Hi, I'm about to buy the LED to keep the red environment, it needs to be the LED strip, or it can be a normal all red lamp. And I didn't find red LED tape either, only blue can it be?
Hey,
Sure it can be a normal red lamp. If you will be working with ortho material you need to work under red light!
Is it possible to coat this on 135 film?
nice video, but, for beginners, what is the differnce between this "dry plate" and "wet plate", ie the colloiden process, as to my novice eye they look like the same thing, and could you explain the coating, and the holders for these plates.
Hey Andy,
Actually dry plates where invented in-order to replace wet-plate process with a few advance features mostly regarding handling and use of plates. Dry plates are coated with emulsion and dried meaning they don't need to be shot right away like we-plate but can be stored and used months or even years later. You can load as many as you want into the special plate holders at home, carry them out in the field, expose and then develop them when you return just like with modern film sheet. Because of that there is no need to carry a portable darkroom and chemicals along with you on the trip like it is required with wet-plates ;) I hope I answered your question :)
Wet collodion plates are coated with a nitrocellulose solution containing only the iodide and bromide. Then the plate is dipped into a silver solution. The plate must remain wet during the exposure and up to the point of development. Gelatin emulsion dry plates are coated with a solution of hot gelatin containing both the iodides/bromides and the silver. After coating the plates are allowed to dry completely before placing in a camera.
Good stuff! I might give it a try so I can make custom size dry plates. Also- have you ever tried using different salts? I see you used KBr, how would other salts like NH4Br, KCl, or NaCl affect the emulsion?
Hey Calvin. Thanks. Other salts mostly result in a different crystal structure and therefore incresed speet. But higher the speed the bigger the risk of emulsion fogging!
Does 99% iso work, grain alcohol is pretty difficult to find.
Yes it will work
So. Step 1 is empty half of your kitchen drawers :)
Will have a thorough look at it later tonight
Well done as usual Nedjc
Haha. Indeed and the step 12 is washing it all 😂
Very good video. I think you forgot one important step. TAKE THE BULB OUT OF YOUR FRIDGE. You only make that mistake once :)
cool content. Subscribed. unrelated question: What do you use as red light? could you share a bit about it? thanks!
Hey. Thanks. I am using LED RED safelights. They are actualy RGB but before muying make sure that red is in the right nm range 😊
And finally you put it in the fridge, your brother unknowingly put it in the cup and drink it hahahahaha
Haha. I think he would have to take a spoon and enjoy his puding 😂
Do you have a video showing how to pour Silver Gelatin emulsion on paper instead of glass?
No. For paper a totally different technique has to be used. Either coating with glass rod or puddle pusher :)
Excellent video. I wonder if you can make an estimated guess at the total cost of the chemicals you are using for this amount of emulsion.
Thanks. Sure I will do the calculation
good vedio,.I need making recipy {Formulation} of photo emulsion for silk screen and rotary neckle screen.
can you privide?
Great stuff! I've been wanting to do some holography using dichromated gelatin, but would be even better to use some other process that lacks the chrome. Hopefully this will be it.
Probably you already know but have you tried using the ferric gelatin process? It uses ferric ammonium oxalate or ferric ammonium citrate as the sensitizer, the developer is a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide. It works with 405nm lasers.
@@teresashinkansen9402 actually, no. I haven't heard of that chemistry reagents being used to create/process holographic plates.
Maybe I was too focused into researching for dichromate salts, while also trying to identify (in very few cases,.understand) as many variables and constraints related to the whole endeavor of doing it from "scratch", that i never considered looking for other options. Besides the classic AgX process, that's why I'm watching this.
I really appreciate your generosity and kindness, thanks for taking the time to reply and being so helpful. Hopefully, this is the path to take towards producing a real hologram. But, in the very least, it has revive my desire to finally get there.
Thank you, very much, again. And have a great day!
I'm also on the same path as you
How much alum is added before coating and how is it added?
Tougly about 2g in 100ml of water. And than I add 3ml of this solution to 100ml of emulsion right before coating
Nejc, fantastic video as always. This was one I was really looking forward to, so thank you for that!
Hey Patrick. Hope you are doing well. Yes I was planing this for a long time but just didnt find the time. Oh well I filmed and edited this one yeasterday 😅
Do you have a video or something showing how you made the drying box? :)
No I dont as now I dry plates in a room to ensure max air flow I can get.
It is great to see a walk through of this online. There are very few of them. It is funny I use exactly the same IKEA tray for chilling my emulsions. IKEA is your friend when doing historical photo techniques. The drying racks are great. I use a lot less gelatine. I make a stock solution of iodide so as not to have to measure sub 1g amounts. I gave up on the potato ricer and just mash the gelatine with a plastic fork. I wash noodles in tap water but five washes. I stopped adding thymol because someone said it wasn't needed unless you kept the emulsion for months. I don't add alum because I don't get any peeling - maybe it is the Bellini gelatine I use. I use Ilford PQ 1:19 as the developer. I often forget to add the alcohol final and it doesn't make a difference to pouring as far as I can see. I do add 2 drops of Erythrosine at the start to try and get some green response but I'm not convinced it makes any difference. It is the one thing I struggle with so I stick to UV/Blue emulsions for now. I have extended ripening up to 1 hour at 60C and don't get any fogging - or much more speed either unfortunately.
I get a strange kick out of making emulsion and exposing glass plates. Buying film seems like cheating now!
Yes, it's great to see a demo of this - I must say, i'm surprised to find it after so little searching - information on many of the old processes (photo and non-photo related) is often very difficult to find!
But I am still wondering; is there a simple alternative to gelatin (maybe a simple starch-vinegar polymer?)
And is it possible to recycle photos and make new emulsion, by reclaiming the Silver? For example, you have a limited amount of Silver at your village/hovel and want to continuously recycle old photos. Or simply just have old photos which you don't want to keep and which could be recycled - Are there any losses of Silver during a photos lifespan? Not so much from preventable scratches, but is Silver somehow lost in the atmosphere, or degrades and falls off, etc? Or it it all retained on the substrate and could effectively be recycled?
Thanks!
@@Kyle-sg4rm People (whole industries) spent 100 years trying to find a gelatine alternative and they failed. You can do collodion, even dry collodion but it is very insensitive. You could also do callotypes or one of the improved paper negatives from mid 19th century but they are tricky with getting the paper right and very slow. Gelatine has magical qualities.
Yes you can reclaim silver and reuse it but it isn't worthwhile unless you are running a small factory. It also isn't particularly toxic in its metal form (we eat off it). Silver Nitrate is £1/g. 20+ 4x5 plates might cost £10 in chemistry? A lot stays in the image. Some you'd never recover. So financial and ecologically it isn't worth it for amateurs. If you're running a major lab it is a different story.
@@RogerHyam A small factory is probably what you would need in regards to gear - especially if Technicolor is being considered. I'm wondering if there is some information about other materials which were experimented with, which may have been successful to some extent, but perhaps weren't as cost effective and/or as good as Gelatin. Maybe Agar?
Alternative dyes, etc, for Technicolor could be the more difficult part.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Julian!
Have you tried sensitizing it with methylene blue?
how different is this emulsion from liquid light?
I havent worked with LL so cant tell you exactly but I suppose it is not much different 😉
Thank you for documenting this process!
Thanks Gregg!
Top Content. Thanks for making this!
Thank you for making the video. It has been around 150 years since this process was first made but not 250 years as mentioned in this video.
Hey Habib. Yes thanks for the correction! I have to practice my math skills a bit 🙈
@@lostlightart6064 Good job, I need to make my own film soon.
@@saidanehabib Yes! :)
Amazing! Thanks for the recipe and the demo, great job!
Thank you Jacopo!
that's amazing!
Amazing work yet again Nejc, thank you for sharing. You will be turning photographers into scientists lol. Thanks again.
Yes like the old days when photography was a craft and not an instant thing!
@@lostlightart6064 absolutely. Long may you continue.
@@ducatitastic Thanks 🤗
Hello, l enjoy your videos. I have a question : what's the difference between blue- sensitive x-ray film and dry plate emulsion? Thanks. Regards. Andrew
They are very simmilar to one another both mostly sensitive in the Blue-UV range 😉
What function does getting rid of potassium nitrate do?
oohhh man.... excelente congrats!! and thanks for share.
Great video for photography
Thank you!
Where did you get your potassium iodide?
A great walk-through making this, thank you!
Thank you for taking the time 😊
Where can you get these chemicals?
10:14 And now our dessert is ready :3
👌😁
Fantastic. Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Thank you, great video! )))
Can I make 35mm camera film by coating this emulsion on an acetate plastic base ?
Yes you can 😉
You're my herooo!!!
😁😊
Great video!
Thank you Trina!
Hi, how long is the shelf life of the emuso stored in the fridge, for when I need to use it and it's still good? (Google translate)
For up to 6 months if not longet 😉
Excellent, comme d'habitude !
👍 thank you.
Very well done! It is good to see what i have read in my vintage book from Eder…
Do you plan a panchromatic emulsion and antihalation layer on your glass plates?
Subscribed your channel…
Hello. Thanks! Yes I have done panchromatic in the past but never antihalation ;)
@@lostlightart6064 Cool, but i iguess it was not easy to coat the plates in absolutly darkness…
@@SD_Alias Yes. One solution is using IR light but then you need night vision goggles :D
@@lostlightart6064 Yes at some point one need professional and expensive equipment…
@@SD_Alias I have actualy made mine from VR googles with phone camera from which I took out IR filter. A bit lagy as I used an old phone but it works for 40€
Good video (so far, haven't finished yet), but you might wanna work you you math skills a wee bit LOL. 250 years? From 1880? I think you carried one too many 1's :D
Thanks. Oh gosh I am 25 and I obviously like to over exaggerate with how old things are 😁 🙈