I hate greasing stuff, too! We have to drive pins out of equipment all the time at work. Sometimes if you take the grease fitting out and get a pic, dig the inside of the pin out then squirt penetrating oil in there and put the grease fitting back in. I’ve had that work or just take the clip off and push the pin out halfway hit it with the grease gun probably open up
Usually when you get a grease zero that won’t take grease, once reopened grease more often. As many other viewers have stated. Get the weight off the pin by jacking your trailer up. If that don’t work, remove the zerk and dig the dried crap out of the zerk. Small picking tools work good to dig into the the opened hole. Heat is your next option. Once that don’t work tell Rachel your going to get a new trailer. But promise you will grease more often. I’m KIDDING. GREASING IS DIRTY AND IT SUCKS. But it needs to be done. One thing I do like about a regular grease gun is you can usually feel on a bearing the pressure. So you stop pumping and don’t force the seal open so grease comes out. Heath you’ll get it opened. Another good video. Later Al
I have a couple of fillings on my jd loader that won’t take grease when the loader is on the ground. Conversely, there are a couple more that won’t take grease when the bucket is in the air. Before disassembling anything I would take the weight off that side of the trailer with a jack. Might take grease just fine then. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I have the Dewalt version, don't even know where my manual grease gun is!! I've changed zerk fittings, i like the idea of the tool of busting bad grease. Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
I need to get me a battery grease gun as well. I wondered how them things work. You must have special one. Lift up the side the trailer take a bar try and get that joint to move when greasing it should make it take. Keep up the good work
That spring shackle pivot pin would be an excellent chance to try the “heat and quench” option. With your grease zerk off, heat that pin with a cutting torch, then immediately quench it with cold water. Replace the zerk and try to grease it. You might have to repeat it two or three times. If it works, you won’t have to struggle with hammering that pin out.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors yep, a cutting torch probably needs several heating sessions as that pin has a long chamber packed with “grease worms”. Quench it as quick as you can each time. Take the zerk off and dig out as much as you can with a wire or drill bit. Also, do you have an AGCO dealer nearby? They have an amazing penetrating spray foam that beats anything I’ve tried. It’s called: “Panther Spray”. Before he died of Covid, the parts man who sold it to me said, “After you spray it on a rusted nut, put a dishpan in under it, because, in the morning, that nut is going to be in that dishpan!” -He was not exaggerating by much! It has a huge “brain cancer” warning on the label, but so far no damage brain here….I think….
Also it’s good to check to make sure the zerks don’t have paint over them. I don’t think that’s your problem but I had a few on my tractor that had paint on them from factory and they wouldn’t take grease until I chipped the paint off. Great video. Thanks!!
Battery powered grease gus are great. We have them at work so I never have to buy one lol. Pop out the zerk and replace it. But I've seen it not take great beyond the zerk also. Hopefully a new one will resolve your problem.
I've had good luck with removing the zerk and blowing the old grease out of it and then trying the grease gun again. If you can picture the way the grease has to travel, if its blocked in the journal then the plug of old stuff in the zerk won't be able to displace that, but fresh grease may push the old grease in the journal through.
Great video. I saw that tool on another channel and it worked. But I had my doubts. I’d be thinking to change the nipple would be the start of a fix. 👍🏻👍🏻👋👋
Best use of an air operated grease gun that I saw was when one of our mechanics pissed in anither guys coffee cup. Guy drilled maybe ten holes in the guys large tool chest & inserted zerk fittings then used the thickest grease we had to fill his entire tool chest with grease. At the end looked like a beating heart. Boss like everybody in the shop hated this guy so boss told him to clean out the grease on his own time. Guy came in two hours early for several days to remove all of the grease. After that guys messed with him every day so he qiut. Bluing on bottom of tooks worked great. Only twkes thre days for blue stain to get off your skin.
I don't have any advice for you Heath, but it certainly doesn't look like user error. Maybe running with the trailer like you suggested will help, good luck!
You have more patience than me Heath ida taken a bigger hammer to it once it didn’t work . I’ve had that happen just gota take the pressure off it maybe add a lil heat but worst case take out the zerk an use a pic to remove the hardend grease add some heat an a shot of pb blaster an it should free it up
Thanks Phil, believe me I wanted to take a sledge to it lol. But I followed the instructions with no luck. Going to try a few more things. I’m not giving up yet.
I have one of the lock n lube grease busters - works great - you MUST USE PENETRATING OIL OUT OF A SCREW TOP CAN TO BE EFFECTIVE - Kerosene works great.
We have the M18 version and the Dewalt. I keep one on the truck to use in the field and one in the workshop. They make the job so much easier and a lot less frustrating. I did change out the ends and replaced them with the locking type. It make a difference in tight areas. As for the residual grease.... You ain't doing nothing wrong, it happens almost every time.
I bought one of those tools about a dozen years ago and had the same exact results.... And changing the zerk didn't help. I was rooting for you and hoping that the tool was going to work (because I still have the tool) LOL
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors I wonder why you have such an issue? You said that you replaced the grease zerk and still doesn’t work. Is the hole all the way through?
Penetrating oil is too thin to seal the piston to the cylinder. Pour automatic transmission fluid into the cylinder to about 3/4 full. Put the piston in and bleed out the air. When you tap the knob hit it like meant to. The taps you were using only created bubbles in your fluid. Years ago, when cars had grease fittings every lube service facility had a DYNA-Miter to clean plugged zerk fittings. I have the same tool you have and it never fails to clear the grease channel.
Thanks for the advice. I must have got enough in it to clear it over time. The next time I greased it took grease. But I’ll definitely try your method if I need to in the future.
I like those Milwaukee grease guns, they just got us the m18 one at work last month. Awesome for all our equipment. Heath I like your new tool, but it's just as easy to replace the fitting sometimes too😂😂🤷♂️
Well you certainly gave it the old college try! I have 2 of the Ryobi grease guns. One for home and one for camp so I don’t have to bring it back and forth. Also just bought the Milwaukee M12 caulk gun for my board and Batten project. My hands were getting sore back in the fall with the manual caulk gun.
Amazon has 110 grease zerks for $11. Cheaper and less time consuming to just replace the zerk and use a pick or awl to remove the crusted grease out of the item you are greasing.
IMPORTANT: when greasing wheel bearings, get the wheel off the ground and spin the wheel while greasing. Otherwise you may blow out the rear bearing seal and contaminate the brakes.
Thank you for that advice, I was not aware that you should lift the tire and spin it while greasing. One of the things I love about TH-cam is how much I learn from others and then I can use that knowledge to help others learn.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoorsYou're welcome. You can't always trust what people say because there is a lot of misinformation on TH-cam. But spinning the wheels is mandatory when greasing the wheel bearings. The info comes straight from the manufacturer.
Heath, buddy, you were cracking me up with all of the whining about how messy greasing is! As a farmer and a mechanic/heavy equipment operator, I have run a lot of grease through guns over the years and have only had a battery gun for the past few years. I was just waiting for you to use words like yucky or icky, and I was going to call for your man card! Others have offered great advice, taking the load off the suspension, perhaps swapping out the fitting, but often times it is dirt caked in the orifice where the grease comes out, and that dirt will eventually become packed to the point that it is like carbon . Sometimes it is simple as taking the fitting out and running a small drillbit, and as far as it will reasonably go. Then you could try your penetrating oil injector. I do not like to use heat on something like that, so the smoke wrench option is a last resort. Bless’ns and thanks for the entertainment! Tedd
Grease will always be messy - that’s what disposable gloves and Lock-N-Lube grease couplers are made for. If you don’t get your hands dirty you’re probably not working very hard. Grease and oil are just facts of life if you own equipment so there is no point crying over it.
Anyone who was fortunate, or unfortunate enough to be the first one on the job site was usually the greaser. I greased in All Seasons with the hand-powered grease gun. And we operated the biggest trucks and excavators in the world doing mine reclamation. You can't tell me any horror stories about greasing equipmnen that I haven't lived through. Lol
I worked on semi`s for 10 years and we would heat up spring pins until they would would take grease. Next time in for service it would be repeat the process. I would get the 18v 2-speed grease gun.
Those wet bolts need to be installed with the drilled hole at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock or else they won't take grease. If replacing the zerk fitting doesn't resolv,e the problem, You'll need to carefully drive out the bolt without turning it as it has a spline to prevent rotation. Make sure the wet bolt is installed with the hole in the correct orientation.
Well at least you opened that Zirk fitting. Sometimes you just have to change the angle of the fitting. Hmm, I think I would just change the angle of the fitting.Then try greasing it as soon as you switch it out.
On my 8 foot damdem disk I have two grease guns, one on each fender, cheap grease first to push out dirt and grease, then switch to other with Lucas red and tacky Never changed brging in 45 years of regular normal farm use Grease every thing folks 😊
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors If replacing the zerk did not fix the issue, then using a tool to clean the old zerk is not going to work either. It's not the tool's issue. Maybe the zerk was for decorative purposes only.
@@billy-bo-dilly This tool doesn't fix Zerk fittings. It blows high pressure oil into the grease path and cavity behind the Zerk. Zero fittings are never the issue, it's always the path behind it.
Did you ever get grease in it? I tried your gadget and tried using a Rigid electric grease gun. It had so much pressure that the zero fitting broke. It’s on a backhoe, it was less than a year old with this problem. Im thinking that I may have to reposition it then maybe it will work.
Lol, i have had one for 40 years, its very sketchy, I run grader and equipment , log trucks, it's works better if, you take of old incert, clean out with a piece of haywire, install new grease cert, then do as you were doing it.
Actually, just yesterday I jacked the trailer up and it took grease, not sure if it was from Jack and the trailer up or from the penetrating oil that I had forced into it with this tool.
Excellent news. I have one wet bolt on my trailer that won't take grease. I'm gonna try using your trick with penetrating oil and see what happensk@@hardworkingmanoutdoors
Wow, you take the time to clean the outside of the zerk to prevent dirty/junk from going. But you use a 'tool' to push junk straight into that environment you're to keep clean. A zerk fitting is 25¢
@jmm1000 I think having the penetrating grease forced into the zero then letting it sit and driving it loosened it up. The next time I had it unloaded I jacked the trailer up to take the weight off the wheels and hit it with the grease gun and it took grease. So either taking the weight off, the penetrating oil, or a combo of the two.
Why would you need this tool to use penetrating oil to break out a clogged grease fitting when grease guns put out 8000PSI??!!! What is the surface area of the ball surface of the zerk fitting??!!!
Very few things that are 100% guaranteed on the internet is suspect. Sorry it didn't work for you. That electric grease gun looks like the thing to have. It sure makes it easier and cleaner. Greasing is not a fun job.
I've gotten it to work, but the "20- 25 gentle taps" in the directions? Absolute crap. Use a MAP torch, 3in1 oil in the rejuvenator, several hard hits with a mini sledge, and a lot of cursing. I only use it as an absolute last resort, like if the zerk is in a place that's really hard to access. Otherwise, just remove the fitting.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors I looked at your video because I was working on my dump trailer, none of the fittings were greased and they painted right over them lol
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I hate greasing stuff, too! We have to drive pins out of equipment all the time at work. Sometimes if you take the grease fitting out and get a pic, dig the inside of the pin out then squirt penetrating oil in there and put the grease fitting back in. I’ve had that work or just take the clip off and push the pin out halfway hit it with the grease gun probably open up
Thanks, I’ll have to do something to open it up.
Usually when you get a grease zero that won’t take grease, once reopened grease more often. As many other viewers have stated. Get the weight off the pin by jacking your trailer up. If that don’t work, remove the zerk and dig the dried crap out of the zerk. Small picking tools work good to dig into the the opened hole. Heat is your next option. Once that don’t work tell Rachel your going to get a new trailer. But promise you will grease more often. I’m KIDDING. GREASING IS DIRTY AND IT SUCKS. But it needs to be done. One thing I do like about a regular grease gun is you can usually feel on a bearing the pressure. So you stop pumping and don’t force the seal open so grease comes out. Heath you’ll get it opened. Another good video. Later Al
Thanks Al, we’ll get it one way or another.
I’ve had a similar tool like that in my tool box for the last 50 years. This one is by far a better design.
I have the same grease gun. Now you need a lock-n-lube for it. It’s life changing.
I have one, just need to get it installed!
I very much agree, for people who don’t grease regularly it’s a must 😊
Lock-n-lube are great on a grease gun😊
I have a couple of fillings on my jd loader that won’t take grease when the loader is on the ground. Conversely, there are a couple more that won’t take grease when the bucket is in the air. Before disassembling anything I would take the weight off that side of the trailer with a jack. Might take grease just fine then. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you, I am going to try this!
I have the Dewalt version, don't even know where my manual grease gun is!! I've changed zerk fittings, i like the idea of the tool of busting bad grease. Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Thanks David, I’ve changed the fitting twice. Going to try a few more things.
I need to get me a battery grease gun as well. I wondered how them things work. You must have special one. Lift up the side the trailer take a bar try and get that joint to move when greasing it should make it take. Keep up the good work
Thanks Dan, I’ll get it one way or another.
Look the the lock n lube G-Gun instead- works better than a battery unit and is always ready to go with 10,000 PSI
@@gregorymacneil2836 And their site sells the Milwaukee GG with their coupler, and a back pressure relief valve to boot!
That spring shackle pivot pin would be an excellent chance to try the “heat and quench” option. With your grease zerk off, heat that pin with a cutting torch, then immediately quench it with cold water. Replace the zerk and try to grease it. You might have to repeat it two or three times. If it works, you won’t have to struggle with hammering that pin out.
Thanks Jack, I have heat it but maybe not enough. I may have to go this route.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors yep, a cutting torch probably needs several heating sessions as that pin has a long chamber packed with “grease worms”. Quench it as quick as you can each time. Take the zerk off and dig out as much as you can with a wire or drill bit. Also, do you have an AGCO dealer nearby? They have an amazing penetrating spray foam that beats anything I’ve tried. It’s called: “Panther Spray”. Before he died of Covid, the parts man who sold it to me said, “After you spray it on a rusted nut, put a dishpan in under it, because, in the morning, that nut is going to be in that dishpan!” -He was not exaggerating by much! It has a huge “brain cancer” warning on the label, but so far no damage brain here….I think….
Also it’s good to check to make sure the zerks don’t have paint over them. I don’t think that’s your problem but I had a few on my tractor that had paint on them from factory and they wouldn’t take grease until I chipped the paint off. Great video. Thanks!!
Thanks, no paint on these but something to consider in the future.
Battery powered grease gus are great. We have them at work so I never have to buy one lol. Pop out the zerk and replace it. But I've seen it not take great beyond the zerk also. Hopefully a new one will resolve your problem.
Thanks Kenny, I’ve changed the zerk with no luck. But yes the battery powered gun is definitely something I should have done a long time ago!
I used a zerk cleaner earlier today on my rv suspension, worked perfect!
Most people seem to have better luck with them than I did. I’ll keep working at it.
I heat up fitting with torch to soften up grease works some time
I've had good luck with removing the zerk and blowing the old grease out of it and then trying the grease gun again. If you can picture the way the grease has to travel, if its blocked in the journal then the plug of old stuff in the zerk won't be able to displace that, but fresh grease may push the old grease in the journal through.
Thanks, I’ll definitely try cleaning the old grease out next time I mess with it.
I had the same issue this week - I applied heat to the zero first then used the tool - once heat was applied the tool then worked.
This one opened up after using the tool and letting it sit. It took grease the next time I tried.
Great video. I saw that tool on another channel and it worked. But I had my doubts. I’d be thinking to change the nipple would be the start of a fix. 👍🏻👍🏻👋👋
Thanks Noel, I’ve changed the fitting twice. Going to try a few more things.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors 👍🏻👍🏻. Something past the fitting is the trouble then. 🤔
Best use of an air operated grease gun that I saw was when one of our mechanics pissed in anither guys coffee cup. Guy drilled maybe ten holes in the guys large tool chest & inserted zerk fittings then used the thickest grease we had to fill his entire tool chest with grease. At the end looked like a beating heart. Boss like everybody in the shop hated this guy so boss told him to clean out the grease on his own time. Guy came in two hours early for several days to remove all of the grease. After that guys messed with him every day so he qiut. Bluing on bottom of tooks worked great. Only twkes thre days for blue stain to get off your skin.
That would be a terrible mess to clean up!
I don't have any advice for you Heath, but it certainly doesn't look like user error. Maybe running with the trailer like you suggested will help, good luck!
Thanks Obie.
You have more patience than me Heath ida taken a bigger hammer to it once it didn’t work . I’ve had that happen just gota take the pressure off it maybe add a lil heat but worst case take out the zerk an use a pic to remove the hardend grease add some heat an a shot of pb blaster an it should free it up
Thanks Phil, believe me I wanted to take a sledge to it lol. But I followed the instructions with no luck. Going to try a few more things. I’m not giving up yet.
I have one of the lock n lube grease busters - works great - you MUST USE PENETRATING OIL OUT OF A SCREW TOP CAN TO BE EFFECTIVE - Kerosene works great.
Thanks for the tip.
We have the M18 version and the Dewalt. I keep one on the truck to use in the field and one in the workshop. They make the job so much easier and a lot less frustrating. I did change out the ends and replaced them with the locking type. It make a difference in tight areas. As for the residual grease.... You ain't doing nothing wrong, it happens almost every time.
Yeah I love this thing. I’ll be putting a locking coupler on it for sure.
I bought one of those tools about a dozen years ago and had the same exact results.... And changing the zerk didn't help. I was rooting for you and hoping that the tool was going to work (because I still have the tool) LOL
I still have to try a few things. Haven’t battled it again yet.
As someone named Jeff this video helped. Thank you
You’re welcome Jeff.
Yeah…. Seems that the bigger the letters used to claim “guaranteed to work” the less likely that it will.
I agree, but the reviews on this tool were great.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors I wonder why you have such an issue? You said that you replaced the grease zerk and still doesn’t work. Is the hole all the way through?
Penetrating oil is too thin to seal the piston to the cylinder. Pour automatic transmission fluid into the cylinder to about 3/4 full. Put the piston in and bleed out the air. When you tap the knob hit it like meant to. The taps you were using only created bubbles in your fluid. Years ago, when cars had grease fittings every lube service facility had a DYNA-Miter to clean plugged zerk fittings. I have the same tool you have and it never fails to clear the grease channel.
Thanks for the advice. I must have got enough in it to clear it over time. The next time I greased it took grease. But I’ll definitely try your method if I need to in the future.
I like those Milwaukee grease guns, they just got us the m18 one at work last month. Awesome for all our equipment.
Heath I like your new tool, but it's just as easy to replace the fitting sometimes too😂😂🤷♂️
It was supposed to work easy. Guess not.
Well you certainly gave it the old college try! I have 2 of the Ryobi grease guns. One for home and one for camp so I don’t have to bring it back and forth. Also just bought the Milwaukee M12 caulk gun for my board and Batten project. My hands were getting sore back in the fall with the manual caulk gun.
Thanks, these battery powered tools are great!
Amazon has 110 grease zerks for $11. Cheaper and less time consuming to just replace the zerk and use a pick or awl to remove the crusted grease out of the item you are greasing.
I changed the Zerk twice. No change.
IMPORTANT: when greasing wheel bearings, get the wheel off the ground and spin the wheel while greasing. Otherwise you may blow out the rear bearing seal and contaminate the brakes.
Thank you for that advice, I was not aware that you should lift the tire and spin it while greasing. One of the things I love about TH-cam is how much I learn from others and then I can use that knowledge to help others learn.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoorsYou're welcome. You can't always trust what people say because there is a lot of misinformation on TH-cam. But spinning the wheels is mandatory when greasing the wheel bearings. The info comes straight from the manufacturer.
Try a dixie cup and spray lub in there and the pout in tool. Just a suggestion.
Thanks, I’ll try that too.
Heath, buddy, you were cracking me up with all of the whining about how messy greasing is!
As a farmer and a mechanic/heavy equipment operator, I have run a lot of grease through guns over the years and have only had a battery gun for the past few years.
I was just waiting for you to use words like yucky or icky, and I was going to call for your man card!
Others have offered great advice, taking the load off the suspension, perhaps swapping out the fitting, but often times it is dirt caked in the orifice where the grease comes out, and that dirt will eventually become packed to the point that it is like carbon .
Sometimes it is simple as taking the fitting out and running a small drillbit, and as far as it will reasonably go. Then you could try your penetrating oil injector.
I do not like to use heat on something like that, so the smoke wrench option is a last resort.
Bless’ns and thanks for the entertainment!
Tedd
Thanks Tedd, I still say grease is messy lol. I’ll get it one way or another. Appreciate the tips.
Grease will always be messy - that’s what disposable gloves and Lock-N-Lube grease couplers are made for. If you don’t get your hands dirty you’re probably not working very hard. Grease and oil are just facts of life if you own equipment so there is no point crying over it.
Anyone who was fortunate, or unfortunate enough to be the first one on the job site was usually the greaser. I greased in All Seasons with the hand-powered grease gun. And we operated the biggest trucks and excavators in the world doing mine reclamation. You can't tell me any horror stories about greasing equipmnen that I haven't lived through. Lol
Greasing definitely isn’t fun but it definitely helps preserve the equipment.
I worked on semi`s for 10 years and we would heat up spring pins until they would would take grease. Next time in for service it would be repeat the process. I would get the 18v 2-speed grease gun.
Thanks! It took grease the next time I greased. Must’ve loosened it up.
Nice video again laughing along with you😂 You might want to be a stand-up comedian in the future😂
I actually hear that a lot lol. Thanks Joe.
I was reaching for a big hammer watching you fiddle with this😂 Not a fan of greasing either but what a difference it makes. Take care Heath👊🏻🇺🇸
May have to go to a bigger hammer for sure. It’s going to open up one way or another.
Those wet bolts need to be installed with the drilled hole at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock or else they won't take grease. If replacing the zerk fitting doesn't resolv,e the problem, You'll need to carefully drive out the bolt without turning it as it has a spline to prevent rotation. Make sure the wet bolt is installed with the hole in the correct orientation.
Well at least you opened that Zirk fitting. Sometimes you just have to change the angle of the fitting. Hmm, I think I would just change the angle of the fitting.Then try greasing it as soon as you switch it out.
Thanks Stephen, going to try jacking the trailer up to see if that helps.
On my 8 foot damdem disk I have two grease guns, one on each fender, cheap grease first to push out dirt and grease, then switch to other with Lucas red and tacky
Never changed brging in 45 years of regular normal farm use
Grease every thing folks 😊
I had not thought about that, that is a good idea.
Health you need to get the lock and lube for the grease gun.
Thanks Chris, I have one for it!
For probs like this, I usually use my hot 'wrench'.
May have to. One way or another I’ll get it.
What i do, remove old fitting and screw in new fitting..
This is my second new fitting, no luck.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors If replacing the zerk did not fix the issue, then using a tool to clean the old zerk is not going to work either. It's not the tool's issue. Maybe the zerk was for decorative purposes only.
I agree
Replace the fitting
I wouldn't want to force any dirt into my bearings/bushing.
Plus
The tool wouldn't work on a snapper front rim.
@@billy-bo-dilly This tool doesn't fix Zerk fittings. It blows high pressure oil into the grease path and cavity behind the Zerk.
Zero fittings are never the issue, it's always the path behind it.
Had one for years,works well
The next time I greased the trailer it took.
Definitely. Great grease gun
I love it.
@ yeah it makes it so much easier
Had pretty good luck getting the fittings free. I used diesel fuel and a 2lb hammer. Hit that sucker!
Thanks Tim, may give that a shot.
Marvel Mystery Oil is very good stuff also.
I took a torch type lighter..heated up the grease nipple for 5 to 8 seconds.. let it cool..and greased it up
Give it a go..you'll be happy you did too
Thank you!
Did you ever get grease in it?
I tried your gadget and tried using a Rigid electric grease gun. It had so much pressure that the zero fitting broke.
It’s on a backhoe, it was less than a year old with this problem. Im thinking that I may have to reposition it then maybe it will work.
Yes I did! The next time I greased it took grease. So I must have forced enough break free into it to loosen it up.
Electric grease gun is great and a knocker is great for cleaning a no taking zert
Thank you, I love that electric grease gun. I should’ve bought it years ago.
Heat the area around the zerk and the grease will break up and let you fill it.
Thanks, I’ll give it a try.
I have the M18 version. I will never go back to a manual gun.
I don’t know why I didn’t do this sooner.
Did you buy the trailer new and never took grease could defect in the pin
I bought it used.
You need a lock n lube grease coupler added to your grease gun
I have one just need to get it swapped over.
Lol, i have had one for 40 years, its very sketchy, I run grader and equipment , log trucks, it's works better if, you take of old incert, clean out with a piece of haywire, install new grease cert, then do as you were doing it.
Thanks, I’ll get back after it on my next day’s off work.
Jack up the rear of trailer and then grease it 😊😊😊
No pressure on axles
Thank you, that is what I plan to do next time I mess with it.
I use a porta power to force oil in
Is there a special fitting? I have a porta power.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors take the zero out and use either grease gun hose or a 1/8 pipe fitting 1/8 to 3/8 pipe adapter
My grease fitting is elbow shaped, will it work on it?
I think it will as long as you have access to it.
U need high temperature for bearing
Thanks, I actually got it to take grease the next time I greased. The penetrating oil must’ve gotten in far enough just needed some time.
Try a new zero an also take the weight off the spring
I’ve replaced the fitting but I’m going to try taking the weight off. Thanks.
What the heck is the name of the tool you used? You didn't list it.
It should be in our Amazon store but here is a link, it is a grease joint rejuvenator.
amzn.to/3VVL4oL
Where can I get that little grease buster at?
Link should be in the description. Got it off Amazon
Time to use the torch! The easy way.
May have to.
Looks like it's time to replace the greasable wet bolt
Actually, just yesterday I jacked the trailer up and it took grease, not sure if it was from Jack and the trailer up or from the penetrating oil that I had forced into it with this tool.
Excellent news. I have one wet bolt on my trailer that won't take grease. I'm gonna try using your trick with penetrating oil and see what happensk@@hardworkingmanoutdoors
Maybe 🤔 things will change once you roll it down the road 😮😊❤
I’ll keep trying until I get it!
But some of newer stuff is the press in fitting, then your new tool may work..
I’m not giving up yet. I got some tips to try here in the comments.
Well I was hoping it would work for but I guess not
Not yet but I’ll get it somehow.
Get the weight of the axle and spring, jack up the rear of trailer
Dang folks your father failed you 😢😢😢
Maybe your grease zerk fitting was put in a drilled, tapped hole with no exit to the joint itself.
I may have to check that as I’ve never been able to get it to take grease.
I think ur supposed to remove the fitting from trailer,then use t hammer tool.
According to the directions, you just put it on the grease zerk it clips on just like a grease gun.
Wow, you take the time to clean the outside of the zerk to prevent dirty/junk from going. But you use a 'tool' to push junk straight into that environment you're to keep clean. A zerk fitting is 25¢
I put a new zero on twice, that wasn’t the problem. We have it taking grease now though!
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors…what was the solution after all?
@jmm1000 I think having the penetrating grease forced into the zero then letting it sit and driving it loosened it up. The next time I had it unloaded I jacked the trailer up to take the weight off the wheels and hit it with the grease gun and it took grease. So either taking the weight off, the penetrating oil, or a combo of the two.
Why would you need this tool to use penetrating oil to break out a clogged grease fitting when grease guns put out 8000PSI??!!! What is the surface area of the ball surface of the zerk fitting??!!!
I tried the grease gun and it was unsuccessful.
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors
Interesting. Will keep that in mind if I come across it!
BIGGER HAMMER❤️❤️🇺🇸
Nice. Video
Thanks Ralph.
I would just change the fitting
Thanks, may have to.
Very few things that are 100% guaranteed on the internet is suspect. Sorry it didn't work for you. That electric grease gun looks like the thing to have. It sure makes it easier and cleaner. Greasing is not a fun job.
Thanks James, I love the new Milwaukee grease gun! Not giving up on the fitting yet.
Clean grease fitting, grease then wipe grease fitting off
Thanks!
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors I worked for an old boy driving truck for him, he was a stickler about it and kept his eye on us..lol
I would try jacking up just enough to take weight off pin. Then try to grease it. Works on my big tex dump trailer.
Thanks, this is going to be the next thing I try.
I've gotten it to work, but the "20- 25 gentle taps" in the directions? Absolute crap.
Use a MAP torch, 3in1 oil in the rejuvenator, several hard hits with a mini sledge, and a lot of cursing. I only use it as an absolute last resort, like if the zerk is in a place that's really hard to access. Otherwise, just remove the fitting.
Thanks, it took grease the next time I tried so it must have got enough in there to loosen it up.
🎉
That’s a M18 grease gun not a M12 you purchased
Nope, I have the M12. The M18 takes the bigger batteries.
Why not just change the zero grease fitting.
Problem solved😊
I changed the zerk, still nothing. However it did take grease the next time I tried so it just needed a little time for the penetrating oil to work.
change fitting.
I changed it out twice so far and no luck.
You mentioned it never worked from the beginning... is it possible it's a manufacture's defect on the pin so it will never take grease?
I am not sure, I bought the trailer used. I plan on taking it apart to check next time I get a chance.
You have a bad grease zero. Change it out and it should work.
I’ve changed out the zerk with no luck.
Just change the fitting.
I’ve done that. Going to try jacking it up.
Be cautious about greasing your wheel bearings like that.
We were greasing the suspension. I wouldn’t use this tool on a Bearing
Damn man take 45 sec. and change the fitting
I’ve changed the zerk, no luck.
You are going to find something funny like the wet bolt is not cross drilled.
I hope not lol.
Heat it
Pumping the penetrating oil into it worked. The next time I greased it took grease!
@@hardworkingmanoutdoors I looked at your video because I was working on my dump trailer, none of the fittings were greased and they painted right over them lol
Change the zerk, use a hand pump gun
I’ve tried that, next time I’m planning on taking the weight off the axle and trying again. Thanks!