Dieselpumpuk try FIX 500HP+ CRACKED ENGINE BLOCK .... OM606 Frozen Diesel block, can this be saved?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Luke and the team at Dieselpumpuk have a tough task repairing a 27 year old diesel engine.
This is a repair carried out to my own development vehicle, no customers were harmed in the making of this video.
![Test Fitting our @EdisonMotors Generator #RamRecharger [EP9]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nW9rcwYymJw/mqdefault.jpg)
I usually drill the edges of the Crack to stop it spreading any further then grind it and fill it in with a bronze rod but that a pretty good patch .
Much easier when engine is in the stand. But i think the problem was preparation. That spot need lots of starting heat and ending heat after weld. Maybe little hammer too, which releases tension. Hard to say, but some old boy will weld that for sure.
Yeah I've repaired mostly farm tractors bulldozer and over the road heavy trucks I'd imagine it would be a royal pain in a car or pickup.
Yeah if unweldable, i would try to use a repair method were you drill and tap holes along the crack and "stitch" with threaded bolts. Google "metal stitching engine crack". Not sure how thick that part of the engine is though so might not be a viable option.
The bronze coloured weld in the video shown is a TIG braze that failed also
@@BloodHoundDiesel Yes, the heat in the casting and a slow cooling cycle are key to getting a weld that is less stressed. I've used Nickel welding to good effect on c.i. and where necessary put some hammer in.
Use CATs lock and stitch brother. Fixed plenty of cast iron housings with lok and stich. Solid as a rock.
I was expecting to see LockNStich pins in use. I'm glad this trick did work. That Jack In The Box on the turbo pipe reminds me of devices EFI engines used before the hot wire mass air sensor was invented. I knew I could repair modern cars when I was 14, and it was all because I read about how a hot wire MAF becomes the chokepoint in a 300ZXTT at big boost. That was back in 1998.
Maybe look into machining brand new 606 replica blocks yourselves. Now there's a thought!🤔 Love all your videos Luke
Get really absorbed in these repair videos. Watched the yacht repair too, great work! 👍
After seeing everything you did & the Crack... I really wish i had the opportunity to weld that up for you .. maybe next time.
Well done Luke and the team!! Love your vlogs !!!!
Very happy to see the pick up back and bumping , for me few motors look better than the 30,s -50,s era yank pick ups ,nothing sounds better than blower whine , great original thinking fix glad it worked out the two stroke technology sealant will put up with long term heat cycles, irregular expansion and derv vibes.good job as ever.🎉treat yourselves to
Tack!
Luke - if it doesn’t hold - there is a very expensive, Caterpillar sanctioned 2-part epoxy for block repair I came across years ago.
Not sure I believe in it…but it’s out there.
Wouldnt Be surprised of Cats epoxy is belzone originally
This is so fucking cool, I call it a proper fix! No sense in scrapping a block over a trivial crack like that! Conservation at its finest!
Also, that Reinzosil is phenomenal stuff. It’s gasoline proof too, you can use it as a thread sealant on fuel components.
But not on crackers?
BUMMA!
Awesome work. The most interesting UK diesel tuning channel on YT.
I doubt that my Royal Enfield, with a 498cc diesel,will reach those giddy dyno figures lol! 😅✔💯🇬🇧😉
Well done 👍. Love to see your videos
"Can't hear it over the tears of the haters." 🤣
Cool fix hopefully it holds up the cnc / design portion was very interesting from a engineering standpoint good work LADS
When dose a bodge become the fix ? Love it i have done one or two "fixs" on my own vehicles usually state before hand " i wouldent do this on a customers vehicle but " 😂😂. Top job love a bit of diesel power tha kd for showing what you do 👍🇬🇧
Raced a banger Vauxhall Victor. Leaking core plug. Glue a 2p coin into the plug. It was a bark to get back off again. Every penny counts 😂
Love the repair. Very clever bit of machining. Would it be have been worth drilled the ends of the crack to stop it from spreading further?
Yes your right if you look closely you can see one of the drilled ends in the clips
@@DieselPumpUK rewatched. I can see it now 😁
Gotta be farming blood somewhere back in your breedline young man. Most impressed with that repair I was. As long as that Renolite(was it?) Stuff remains sufficiently flexible(which I suspect it will) to account for the differing expansion rates between the C.I. block and the aluminium patch plate( but erm, he thinks, exactly the same as an aluminium head on a C I block)
P.S.
Next step is a empty tin can situated to catch the drip!
Omfg I love it!!!!! This video will be so important in years to come so future generations will see what we had in out time.
It’s Friday afternoon and we should be heading home
But this is cool shit😂
Couldn’t agree more brother 👊🏼
Seem to remember you doing a similar repair on the boat engine 👍
I love the sound of it
Has anyone ever told you that you're obstinate , Luke ?........................🤣. Excellent repair Young Man .
I remember coming across a very old mechanics book around 40 years ago from the 1930's and it demonstrated how to repair cracked engine blocks, which included the cylinders by brazing then re honing... I thought it was absolutely bonkers, but yet again I know of a taxi that had a long external crack on the block, the guy cleaned it off and used isopon or car body filler, it ran like that for 18 months until someone wrote the car off... that was back in the 90's
I've heard that if you heat the whole block to 375F and maintain that temp it can be welded. MAYBE. Treat it like you were building an ultra-heavy piece of heavy mining equipment.
I agree with a coulpe of comments on there. its critical to test where the cracks ends have migrated to and drill a hole at the very ends of the cracks. for some reason this stops the crack from being able to migrate any further, use 309 dissimilar rods mma or 309 tig rods. vee out the crack with 1.2 mm cutting disc for better penetration and more weld inclusion. Jobs a good un. This applies when addressing any crack that needs welding
Have you considered stitching that block? That method is well known from at least over a hundred years and it's been used for such applications. It also prevents the crack from spreading, whilst your fix just stops the leak and you have no idea what's going on beneath that plate.
Nice build engine. Bloompo for exempel though made 500hp on a stock unopened 606 with only a HX40 super and a 8mm Dieselmeken pump hehe so a lot of money for looking fancy in that engine bay
Great character for tv
I have been building Rotary my houl live and that sealant is unmatchable
This is the world's most engineered bodge job 😅
Luke you’re the man. I love your content mate don’t do crack😂😂😂😂😂
Next time leave your coolant pressure tester on the radiator neck.
Just make sure you set it to zero with engine cold.
As it warms up the gauge will read pressure and confirm actual pressure
I think you should have gone the bush trick, a good heaped table spoon of fine ground white pepper in the radiator.
Great video and fix. It’s only temporary if it didn’t work. 🤣🤣
Not a botch if works always a solution to make life easier
Now we Need a Drift an burnout Video
Thinking forward, what will you do when all the 606 engines are gone? Have you ever considered fitting manual pumps and injectors to the om648 motor or even doing that to a bmw m57? Plenty of these engines available and cheap. Im sure you could do it. Cant give you a compliment on the good work because your head would stick in the door on your way home!!
Pretty sure that 2mm Renozil could stop that leak without that patch block. It's crazy strong stuff when harden. Use it all the time for everything that leaks!
we should be definetely sponsored by this COMPANEH🤣
Very nice bodge job, but I wouldn’t attempt crossing the Simpson just yet.
BTW I’d love to swap one of your OM606s into my 105 Landcruiser.
Make a billet block!!
cast cracks need to be drilled to stop the spread. also it would have been funny to engrave a bandaid on it instead lol
Was that Paul from Darkside who appeared when you were sorting the Oil pressure issue?
Super ❤
I haven't welded alot of cast, but have had some good repairs that are holding still. I used brass with oxy acetylene. I did a good preheat first, then laid down metal, once done buried the part in sand so it wouldn't cool too fast. Cracking adjacent to the weld likely is because of rapid cooling, imo.
@@price8314 yes agreed it always cracked again on the cool down, problem I had/have is not wanting to disassemble the entire engine, I cannot see how you could get enough heat into the block for a good weld without damaging or distorting the complete item, it would require at least re-honing the bores and checking the deck afterwards
Another alternative might have bees to switch to Evans waterless coolant. It do not build up pressure like antifreeze does after what I've heard, I think of from a Jay Leno's garage video, but it supposedly runs the engine a little hotter though, don't know if that would have been a problem with all the boost you feed that monster. Then that first weld or bodge could have worked?
God bless and lots of love from Norway.
Evans is just pure antifreeze. Crap really as it doesn't transfer heat aw well as water or water and antifreeze mix. all just marketing wank
Put a cheeky little bleed nipple on the casing instead of cracking it open and risking a leaking gasket. 🤔
Luke, U da man
14:54 Is that Paul from Darkside Developments? Is he Moonlighting at your workshop? 😂😂
Thankfully, I've followed your advice and not done crack.
Lo que mas me ha gustado es ver a dos jóvenes operarios con las manos en la espalda, pillados por error en camara como preguntándose que hostias hacemos aun aqui hoy viernes...minuto 16,15 a 16.26...
When you machining new billet blocks. Stock ones are cheese 🧀
Usualy I TIG weld it with a cast iron welding electrode, I use only the core removing the shield from it.
before watching I was thinking hell you have a core plug right there scan it with your iphone 3D print a test plate make sure its pretty close then cnc the 3d printed part into metal and glue it to the block with JB weld.
also side note I hope youre about 5'10 that cab is pretty tight at 6' like honking the horn with your elbow turning in reverse.
Diesel pump uk: we don't stop till we crack a block...
Sorted!
Maybe you could start a joint venture with the company that made the aftermarket 2jz block (i think it's DART or something close to that, ask google) and prepare a afternarket om606uk?
What’s the reasoning behind plate then? Just stop the coolant getting out? The cracking can’t be stopped? Is the block integrity ok with the crack?
This is a junk block. I think the ‘fix’ is getting it running again and no leaks etc. Maybe we will see a later episode after it’s grenade’d itself. I think the real advice on this one is..
‘Don’t do crack…!’
Crack kills, but the band-aid will keep it alive for as long as it will. It's just a stop gap because the work is already done, so why not use it until it's unusable. Might hold for a thousand miles, might never need replacing again.
I ran a old bmc 2.2 in a boat for years similar to what you done but no were as pretty as yours 😂 that was cracked i used sicker flex under my plate it was still on it when i sold it 😂 nice job 👌👌
Cast plug and stitch , on engine installed like large equipment etc. Always drill holes on ends of cracks. But Luke?? If you have all that equipment I would think you cut a threaded circle in the block.and cut a circle thread plug with a fitting for ratchet or head for socket etc. And thread locker it in.????
Definitely need more videos cool channel only a few good automotive channels on TH-cam keep up the good work 🫡👍🏻
@dieselpumpuk Luke when you did the cast welds did you pre heat the area then keep it warm in weld blankets and let it slowly cool?? Its the process we use for offroad axle housings or you get the cracks i see in the video.
I ran the engine as hot as I dare, with no coolant then started welding. Defiantly not hot enough but just a token gesture
, scared to put a torch on it with the rotating assembly installed and currently good tolerances, I’m pretty certain if the block was stripped fully a weld repair could have been completed, I absolutely did not want to strip this back down :-)
@@DieselPumpUK i understand completely! I think the solution you came to makes a much better statement anyway ;) Also are these dyno runs with the fuel turned down like you said in the last video??
Is the wastegate flap causing damaging turbulence when it opens? Perhaps it should open a fraction earlier, you can see the turbo sucking the small hose before it opens.
21:30 sounds like the mic has a crispy blow off valve going on there. Lol
The best 👌 Sealand in the world 🌎
Fill the block up with grout, up to the crack, its a race car anyway.
just wondering if you ever ran it with only SC Boost ?, that would be very interesting
😎👍
needs cold metat steching . never weld blocks
I love your gold flap
Time to start building alloy 606 blocks.
Can you do VE Pump tuning?
You really need to drill the ends of the cracks at the very least, as they will continue to spread, and honestly, while I applaud your effort with the block plate, it would have been a much better, and more proven fix, to lock n stitch the block
Hi! How you adjustment the start of injection for each other section of IP?
I think if you brased the crack, it might work better as your meting metal into a crack, not trying to bridge them🤷♂️ I'm sure I'm not right but ay worth the throught and if that rtv doesn't get some honda 1216e and make sure ther surface is bone dry and free from oils and coolent
Hie luke, which pump elements are you using there??
Nice truck, but what’s with the G-Wagon in the background
Could it not have been stitched ? Like you would of with an old cracked tractor block ?
What is a good diesel to swap into a 1/2 ton truck in the US?
Couldn’t you have tried “metal stitching” quite a common way to repair cast iron but a bit of a dying art these days
Nice fix though!
Not enough thickness here but definitely a good method and great suggestion
@@DieselPumpUK sure guess you are right. 👍🏻
Use evans coolant it dosent pressurise the block
I cudda metal lock dat an proper for sure afterr
are the om606 engines good for pulling trailers on a farm ????
Wen burnouts!
dont use the red coolant,use the cummins/case blue polygycol non toxic coolant,its an "coolant for life" and they aint kidding,its lasts forever
I need to know why are we not consernd about the crack keep growing throuout many heat cykels? in my eyes u proporley repear that by drilling holes and thredding and puting screwes in it. And making sure u have drilled the ends of the crack. tell me about this!
Belzona wrong spelling but it's a metal putty for repairing castings
Remember dont do Crack 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🙌
The cracking could have been stopped by boring all the ends of the rack.
Hopefully you drilled the ends of the cracks or else it's going to keep spreading.
Anyone who doesn’t like the supercharger sound has an invalid opinion, wouldn’t worry too much what they think
Dont do crack 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
how much for crate engine?
Mercedes told me to put BASF G48 in my OM605. It’s blue, you put Pink in it. Is that right?
12.06?
Put a bottle of bars leaks init??? Or two???? Or three????
I am from South Africa need a pump kit for 0M0 605 can u help me
23:56
Weld repairs will NEVER work on cast iron blocks. Cracks will always reappear close to the welds.
If the repair had been carried out properly using Tig brazing with the correct filler material, there is a good chance it would have been 100%.
There is very little understanding of cast iron repairs, and many parts are needlessly scrapped due to this.................