As for those broken off bolts, I'd just wheel the MIG welder over, weld a nut to the nubs that are left over and back'em out. Although I would have liked to have seen the can degreed with a new timing set, let's be real: most people do it EXACTLY like you demonstrated here. *VERY* relevant. At least you checked for PTV, I know that gets skipped over a LOT.
Try flipping the super sucker upside. Cutter’s performance saw no gain on Sbc 350 vortex build with super sucker then flipped it and saw resectable gains. Just a thought. Weld nut trick as others suggested it easy way. The heat shock from mig welding of nut totally loosens it up. 1-2-6 and there you go. Your content is second to none!! Thank you for sharing!!
The two dead giveaways that this motor has been into before is the silicone on the crank keyway for the harmonic balancer and the rebuilder button on the core plug on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. Maybe a Ford reman. But DEFINITELY not a Virgin.
Built an 89 5.0HO all stock except home ported heads, 1.5" shorty headers and E303 cam installed with stock timing set. Through a stock T5 made 249whp at 4600rpm and 314wtq at 3400rpm on a Dynojet. Tried an eldelbrock FI intake larger throttle body but always peaked low. Thought maybe the valve springs were weak as I thought peak power should have been around 5500rpm. Still was a torquey hard running TBird! Best of 13.7 @ 104 on a 1.6 60ft.
Thanks Brent for this video on JJJnr, learnt some tips for checking things today. Am guessing with that new E303 cam swap it’ll be in the range of 320-330 hp.. Let’s wait and see! Jon from Australia
Thanks for all your information here on you tube. Ive been anxious to see the results of this project as I have one of these engines for my early Bronco.I would be interested how the idle speed is affected by the larger cams.
take an old sparkplug shell thread an bolt in it about an inch long round the bolt head off in a lathe or drill. Piston Stop... you must cut a wide groove in the threads to let compression out as you turn it over..
That was what I experienced 20 or so years ago and many in between. I'd say, in my experience, 20% of the Ford Racing cams, B through Z, were on the money.
What tough luck w/ the w/p bolts. It looks like there's not enough material left outside the block to file/mill square & then left hand drilll or tap them out.
Brent, I would clean the top of the broken bolts really well and weld a little bit larger but over what little is sticking out. Let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes afterwards to let the heat transfer down the bolt before trying to back the bolt out. Using a mig welder helps control the spark splatter and a lot less clean up than drilling. May take a couple try’s to get it out but it works like a charm.
I built almost this exact engine for my exes bro-killer lil mill!!-&Those dang waterpump bolts are the BANE of my existence!!-I put arp (arp wp bolt kit is a Godsend!Thanx ARP!!)or grade 8 bolts back n now! Lol--&I gotta admit-I shoulda thought of the washer on top o the valvestem myself!!😂THATS VERY GOOD!!😎
Soak those broken studs with some penetrating oil, clean them up, and MIG weld a nut to the broken end. Hopefully that will get them out easier than drilling.
@@lykinsmotorsports Yes I had the same problem with a 351 W. I installed a new Scat crank, and the Scat Crank used a narrow keyway which is odd. So I ground down the Ford key so it fit in the crankshaft. It worked but then it leaked. I thought it was the new front seal. But found that as described above oil was going past the keyway and leaking out around the bolt. A glob of silicone sealer fixed that problem. Then the new Scat crankshaft had no rear oil slinger to keep the oil away from the seal, so the new rear two-piece main seal started leaking. And yes I installed the rear main as instructed in the Ford shop manual. It shows where to put silicone sealer between the block and the bearing cap. The original Ford crank was a better crankshaft and it never leaked. I don't like Scat cranks.🥴
Awesome video Brent! My Guess is 341HP! I’ve got the same cam in a few cars and I’ve always installed them straight up but I’ve always wondered if I could benefit from a 2deg advance. Can’t wait to see the results if you end up advancing it! 🇺🇸💪🏼
When I did an E303 cam in my 85 GT Mustang, I just put it in at zero and it worked great. Drove it for 10 years no performance issues that i could tell. It ran HARD.
According to David Vizard a loose timing chain is better than a tight timing chain for more power. He said the reason was that less crankshaft vibrations are transmitted to the valve train and distributor for smoother operation creating more power. I did not know that, but it does make sense. So, I have always just left the chain loose. 😊Advancing the valve timing did create more low-end power on a 460 but was also running Rhoads lifters so I don't know if it was the cam advanced or the Rhoads lifters making the difference. Maybe it was the combination of both.
I know all about that "gonna just do this, then get back to it later..." and then it's been 4 hours. Or more. Working on my cam swap, thinking it's been maybe 30 years since I've done it "old school" - pulling it out in the car vs the engine stand. 😂 Hope it clears the bumper.
Welding nuts to the end, if you've got a mig handy, of them could be a good first action. The heat from the weld can free up the broken bolt. Drilling, no matter how centered, is always risky. Breaking a bit on there sucks!
@@arturozarate1752 I had the same thing happen on a 289. Sometimes if water is used in the cooling system and the gasket leaks a little the bolts will rust up and break off during a water pump replacement. Soaking the broken bolts with Kroil for a few days and using a small punch and a hammer can usually get them to spin out as they are not bottomed out. I agree breaking a drill or easy out in the broken bolt can cause bad words to be used that are not in any book. 😬
You need to go back and look at the game plan that we came up with from the start. First cam try was to be the E303 cam, since many guys do it. I have a custom camshaft coming that I designed that we will try next.
320 hp, I’m going to go out on a limb and say the the Bullet cam will make less than 20 more over what the “E” does with all the same parts reused and it not being degreed.
Really for most applications engines will run just fine using stock valve timing. But for race applications the use of a degree wheel can get you a little more power where you want it.
That washer trick under the rocker arm is awesome. I learned something today....
As for those broken off bolts, I'd just wheel the MIG welder over, weld a nut to the nubs that are left over and back'em out.
Although I would have liked to have seen the can degreed with a new timing set, let's be real: most people do it EXACTLY like you demonstrated here. *VERY* relevant. At least you checked for PTV, I know that gets skipped over a LOT.
Nice job on holding the flywheel
weld nuts to the broken bolts, the heat from the weld will help loosen the bolt
Try flipping the super sucker upside. Cutter’s performance saw no gain on Sbc 350 vortex build with super sucker then flipped it and saw resectable gains. Just a thought.
Weld nut trick as others suggested it easy way. The heat shock from mig welding of nut totally loosens it up. 1-2-6 and there you go.
Your content is second to none!!
Thank you for sharing!!
The two dead giveaways that this motor has been into before is the silicone on the crank keyway for the harmonic balancer and the rebuilder button on the core plug on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head.
Maybe a Ford reman. But DEFINITELY not a Virgin.
MIG WELD a nut to those broken bolts heads!! CLEAN (wire wheel) broken bolt heads first. Drill as a last resort.
A couple of wood blocks, 2x4's under the stand..
Built an 89 5.0HO all stock except home ported heads, 1.5" shorty headers and E303 cam installed with stock timing set. Through a stock T5 made 249whp at 4600rpm and 314wtq at 3400rpm on a Dynojet. Tried an eldelbrock FI intake larger throttle body but always peaked low. Thought maybe the valve springs were weak as I thought peak power should have been around 5500rpm. Still was a torquey hard running TBird! Best of 13.7 @ 104 on a 1.6 60ft.
Thanks Brent for this video on JJJnr, learnt some tips for checking things today.
Am guessing with that new E303 cam swap it’ll be in the range of 320-330 hp.. Let’s wait and see!
Jon from Australia
Thanks for all your information here on you tube. Ive been anxious to see the results of this project as I have one of these engines for my early Bronco.I would be interested how the idle speed is affected by the larger cams.
take an old sparkplug shell thread an bolt in it about an inch long round the bolt head off in a lathe or drill. Piston Stop... you must cut a wide groove in the threads to let compression out as you turn it over..
Thanks Brent, great videa! Lookin' forward to your next instalment! I knows customers gotzta come first'n'all but! Love ya work! 💯
I just put an E303 cam in my 89GT. I had to advance it four degrees to get the centerline right.
That was what I experienced 20 or so years ago and many in between. I'd say, in my experience, 20% of the Ford Racing cams, B through Z, were on the money.
Thats where im at too, i built a 331 stroker with trick flo and holley everything all new, but something is not 100% and i think cam timing is off
try the welded nut trick on those broken bolts. im rhinking that cam us worth 25hp so that should be 318
What tough luck w/ the w/p bolts. It looks like there's not enough material left outside the block to file/mill square & then left hand drilll or tap them out.
Brent, I would clean the top of the broken bolts really well and weld a little bit larger but over what little is sticking out. Let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes afterwards to let the heat transfer down the bolt before trying to back the bolt out. Using a mig welder helps control the spark splatter and a lot less clean up than drilling.
May take a couple try’s to get it out but it works like a charm.
I built almost this exact engine for my exes bro-killer lil mill!!-&Those dang waterpump bolts are the BANE of my existence!!-I put arp (arp wp bolt kit is a Godsend!Thanx ARP!!)or grade 8 bolts back n now! Lol--&I gotta admit-I shoulda thought of the washer on top o the valvestem myself!!😂THATS VERY GOOD!!😎
Soak those broken studs with some penetrating oil, clean them up, and MIG weld a nut to the broken end. Hopefully that will get them out easier than drilling.
Reverse drill bits work great for that
I couldn't think of anything better to do on a Saturday. Unless it was my kid's weekend.
Ford wsm has you put a dab of silicone on the key way when you install the balancer, to prevent oil leaks down the key way.
Didn’t know that. Maybe it has never been into then.
@@lykinsmotorsports Yes I had the same problem with a 351 W. I installed a new Scat crank, and the Scat Crank used a narrow keyway which is odd. So I ground down the Ford key so it fit in the crankshaft. It worked but then it leaked. I thought it was the new front seal. But found that as described above oil was going past the keyway and leaking out around the bolt. A glob of silicone sealer fixed that problem. Then the new Scat crankshaft had no rear oil slinger to keep the oil away from the seal, so the new rear two-piece main seal started leaking. And yes I installed the rear main as instructed in the Ford shop manual. It shows where to put silicone sealer between the block and the bearing cap. The original Ford crank was a better crankshaft and it never leaked. I don't like Scat cranks.🥴
315 hp, if you weld a washer to the stub, then a nut to washer it will come out.
306 HP - Be interesting to see what the Summit E303 Plus would do.
Awesome video Brent! My Guess is 341HP! I’ve got the same cam in a few cars and I’ve always installed them straight up but I’ve always wondered if I could benefit from a 2deg advance. Can’t wait to see the results if you end up advancing it! 🇺🇸💪🏼
I would turn the engine where the stud is down and drill. With some tape on the TC seal area.
Heat the bolts up before you ever even break them loose and dont use an impact. Will save you trouble in long run
Heat juice heat drill small hole in center and try ezzout .
When I did an E303 cam in my 85 GT Mustang, I just put it in at zero and it worked great. Drove it for 10 years no performance issues that i could tell. It ran HARD.
According to David Vizard a loose timing chain is better than a tight timing chain for more power. He said the reason was that less crankshaft vibrations are transmitted to the valve train and distributor for smoother operation creating more power. I did not know that, but it does make sense. So, I have always just left the chain loose. 😊Advancing the valve timing did create more low-end power on a 460 but was also running Rhoads lifters so I don't know if it was the cam advanced or the Rhoads lifters making the difference. Maybe it was the combination of both.
I know all about that "gonna just do this, then get back to it later..." and then it's been 4 hours. Or more. Working on my cam swap, thinking it's been maybe 30 years since I've done it "old school" - pulling it out in the car vs the engine stand. 😂 Hope it clears the bumper.
Huh...i was always told and read you couldn't take the lifters out of a 302 without removing the heads....lol. i guess ill try next time.
Can’t do it with link bar lifters or the “race” Ford OEM style lifters.
Drill and tap the bolts out now. Will save you less work later just do it. Lol.
Welding nuts to the end, if you've got a mig handy, of them could be a good first action. The heat from the weld can free up the broken bolt.
Drilling, no matter how centered, is always risky. Breaking a bit on there sucks!
@@arturozarate1752 I had the same thing happen on a 289. Sometimes if water is used in the cooling system and the gasket leaks a little the bolts will rust up and break off during a water pump replacement. Soaking the broken bolts with Kroil for a few days and using a small punch and a hammer can usually get them to spin out as they are not bottomed out.
I agree breaking a drill or easy out in the broken bolt can cause bad words to be used that are not in any book. 😬
Should make around 625 HP now😉
Really thinking 330.
Should have tried the updated E cam from Summit, or a cam that has more lift and duration on exhaust.
You need to go back and look at the game plan that we came up with from the start. First cam try was to be the E303 cam, since many guys do it. I have a custom camshaft coming that I designed that we will try next.
Maybe 15-20 hp more, I had the same problem with broken bolts in my 5.0 Engine too
I believe it will be 319Hp with the E303 cam
Hi, what was the problem with you not being able to use your piston stop in the spark plug hole?
301HP
320 hp, I’m going to go out on a limb and say the the Bullet cam will make less than 20 more over what the “E” does with all the same parts reused and it not being degreed.
Great content Sir. What would upgrading the rocker arms benefit over stock?
A lot.
323hp those cam sounds good but don't help much on power
Ford sells thousands of engines that don't get the cams degreed ! They don't need it on a stock cam !
Really for most applications engines will run just fine using stock valve timing.
But for race applications the use of a degree wheel can get you a little more power where you want it.
323.5 ftw
Could you please tell me what motor Is idling at the beginning of your videos? I love the sound of it.
A 390FE.
305 hp
I don't know.... Maybe 325-340 h.p.🤔
I say 315 HP. @ 5700 RPM.
Guessing 311hp this time around.
Is the standard Explorer cam similar in Spec to the std 5.0 GT roller cam? Anyone know?
Smaller…
Hp guess 310hp.
328 hp😊
322 h.p.
326.5 hp
Didnt now you build boat motor
345 h.p.
I'm going to guess 352 hp in honor of JJ sr.
326 hp😊
312 HP
gonna guess + 30 for e cam, so 320
306
322 horse power
313hp
319 horse power
318 H.P.
This set up will yield 291hp
Will you be putting the specs of the cam you spec out on when you do it?
E303 cam specs are in the video at 12:02 and easy to find on the net
330 hp
325hp
326 hp
317 hp
I guess 309 hp
320 hp
That 302 isn't as pretty as your usual finished product.
Gt40p heads, b303 cam, no ether, 315hp.