I have watched many videos regarding these jigs, and they all leave me with a question or two, most notably, how to copy an existing neck profile to the jig. After watching your clear and detailed video, all questions have been answered. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
Brilliant! - I'm making one for uke necks. A job I can't do on my CNC without spending a fortune on 3D software! A further mod might be a perspex cover box that the router runs along a slot with adjustable end stops. The box allows extraction and you can still see the job. Thank you so much for your work Randy.
awesome videos Randy using your jigs and love them The question I have is how to make a cam/puck without a neck to copy I have a CAD file for a guitar but there's no profile Look forward to your Genius ideas Thanks so much
think you could make a arch top jig as well wat im thinking is to use the router mounted on a arm hinged on one end to a rail mecanism that can move the arm across the body possibly using a window motor and a piece of alltread to move it smoothly towards the center of the rotating body the body be spinning horizontally and the other end of the arm opposite the hinge moving over the jig thats rotating at the same speed using a chain and two sprockets the arm moving along a track from the outside toward the center (maibe using a windshield wiper motor driving a piece of alltread to move it smoothly ) and cut the arch in a spiral pattern from the outside in to make the jig / cam mould you need to be using an existing archtop body and mount the router on the other end of the setup to cut the jig , since the jig sits on the end of the arm and furter away from the original the jig will end up larger than the part you be making , think the jig could be made from mdf think the whole "machine" end up about 3 times the size of a guitarbody both in length and width another thing you probably need to do when making the jig is create sumting that prevent a too harsh hit of both the bearing follower and the routerbit against the edges of the guitar shape , think the jig/ cam mould would need to be round and have ramps intoo the arch wish you might need to make by placing a board cut perfectly around the original guitar shape youre making the mould off and raise that board untill its level with the edges of the binding , or set a stop on the arm so it doesnt go below that edge when cutting the cam jig
I have been wondering if there is a way to make just one frame that can do any scale length neck shaping. I have to think on it some more. I am now a subscriber to your channel. Thanks!
Yes, I think one long one could do all scales if you want it to. If I had built the one for bass first, I probably would’ve done guitar necks with that. And may do that in the future. You would have to have different versions of the rotating portion.
Awesome, great tutorial! The only thing im a little confused about before i start are the end center holes on the neck carriage. Should the two end centers be at the point where the fretboard meets the carriage surface, or, in this case, a neck with a 1/4" fretboard, where the fretboard base is glued to the neck? You said something about a 1/4" down to accomodate for the fretboard, or something like that, couldnt quite make it out lol. Id sure appreciate it if you could help me out with that, other than that, i think ive got it.👍
@@MJ-nd7cj Before I had built this jig, I had watched some TH-cam videos of others with similar jigs, and they were doing theirs without fretboards on and had the axis center where the fretboard would have met the neck, but of course no fretboard on it. I’m doing mine with the fretboards on so I added a quarter inch, raising the center of the axis a 1/4” above the surface of the carriage. I don’t know that it would make that much difference one way or the other. As long as your cams were created with the quarter inch compensation. I hope that makes sense.😬 Thanks
@@randysguitarsbroncos223Thank you Randy! And yes, that makes sense. Ive seen those vids and some other drawings too, which probably added to my confusion lol. I like your version, and thanks again, i really appreciate it!👍👍
Randy - I've been enjoying watching all of your videos. I am going to build this copier as I am wanting to change the neck on one of my guitars. If possible, I would like to make a copy of the neck profile of my PRS guitar but it has a set neck. After thinking about this for a little I am wondering if I could use a carpenter's Profile Contour tool to create the pucks. Do you know if anyone has tried that already?
@@dfranks50 The cams or pucks in the profile jig are bigger than the contour of the neck, so using a profile contour tool, it would need to be enlarged about one inch, as I demonstrate near the end of this video. In another video, I show how I produced cams without the neck. And here’s the link. th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KmokqEnIfSOIyz75
WOW, so cool!!. I started to build my own Bass jig a few days ago and this is a great help. I now have a much better understanding , tomorrow I'm slotting the carriage, my end pieces are done, then moving on to the cams. I was thinking of making the cam blanks slightly larger and cutting the stops right out of the cam sides (like bumpouts) to stop the carriage from turning more than the edge of the neck. Cool adjustment at the heel. Anyhow, loved this video, thank you again. Please show the final results of the completed bass necks.
@@randysguitarsbroncos223 Cool, whenever you have time. I slotted the carriage today, I will work on the end blocks and cams. Say, would you also be able to show how you managed to make those ramps? Appreciate you, thanks
I think it could be adapted for making compound radius fretboards. Think about it, the back of a Guitar neck is a compound radius, just a much tighter radius. Thanks for sharing, I may try it.
You could probably measure the distance between the cutting head and the bottom of the bearings, and that would be your offset. If for example the offset is 1", and you're going for a 12' radius fretboard, the puck would be a 13" radius on which the bearing rides.@@randysguitarsbroncos223
I noticed the new ramps on the side rails ( on the guitar version) but you don't mention them. Is that to get a smooth transition to the headstock and neck pocket?
Yes, that’s what they are for. I mentioned them in this video “Building a Fender Style Neck, Pt 4”about 7 minutes in, but don’t go into any detail. I think I’ll do a video about them sometime soon. th-cam.com/video/QYtYbEViIGU/w-d-xo.html
Randy, Ive got a question if you could answer please. I build this jig not quite the same but close. But to the point. Ive been practicing on pine before I use the real thing. the first time I did it the neck came out fine, the next time I tried it gave me a larger not sure how to word this. Progressive bottom and less top of the neck shape. My guess is because the neck wasn't centered? maybe? Thank you By the way great videos learned a lot for ya. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Making sure it is centered seems like it could be the issue. You may have watched this video I made but it shows how I centered the neck in the jig. Hope this helps😊 th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iAD_qHENYydBskNn
Question: on the removable pieces, with the dowels that ride on the original neck to mark the pucks, the length of the part of the dowel that is sticking out is 3/4"? I'm assuming 3/4" for the MDF board that rides between the sides and another 3/4" of dowel sticking out for a total of 1.5" from the top of the rails to the bottom of the dowel, correct? I made mine to ride on top of the rails, with the dowel sticking out 1.5", just like the router bit, and with test cuts, it's cutting the sides of the neck too narrow, but the thickness is fine. It looks like the pucks are being marked too narrow, and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
1.5" total from the top of the rails to the bottom of the dowel, is correct. With the neck that you're ready to route, mounted and centered in the jig, hold the neck at a 90 degree angle and check for 1.5" down to the side of the neck from the top of the rail (bottom of router base) If you get something less than that, then the cam is to narrow. Or, you could only allow your router bit to go to that depth and then remove a little from the top of the cams to get the neck thickness. I have a newer video on the subject that may help. Good luck, hope this helped. th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=agZeEZ_G6yC4y5o8
Are all elements of the jig are the same in thickness? If not, the length of slide and the innner cam would not fit each other. Please let me know the thickness, or we can't build the jig like you. I think the Thickness would be 0.75 inch, right? plus, what is the size of a bearing (R)? wonderfull work!
All elements are .75” thickness. The bearings are standard roller skate bearings which can be purchased in sets on Amazon. Size: .87” o.d. X .31” I. D. X .27” w
wow, Thank you for your quick answer. okay, today, I made a plan on cad for a jig. here's another one, you are using two different jigs for each guitar and bass. If I make only one jig for both, then make each cams and use them alternatively, does the lengh of a entire jig really affect the result? I wish your answer here.
I made the guitar jig first and then wanted to make a bass neck, so I had to make another jig. I’m sure one for a bass neck could be used for a guitar neck also.
Of the MANY videos of making this jig, you are the ONLY guy to explain a clear, precise way to make the cams. Excellent!
@@gk8010 Thank you 🙏 😊
The best things we can do as human beings is to share the knowledge! You've definitely fulfilled the brief Randy so thank you! 👍👍
Thanks
Well done mate. Best explanation of how to mark and cut the profile end pieces that I have watched. I appreciate your work. Cheers...
Best explanation so far of how to create suitable cams for the actual cutting. Good work!
🙏
So good! Clearly explained, measurements, and you show how you adjust your design to make it better. Thank you!
Thanks 🙏
Thank you so much for for your time and effort making this video. . I have successfully made four Strat necks using this jig.
👍 Nice 😊
I have watched many videos regarding these jigs, and they all leave me with a question or two, most notably, how to copy an existing neck profile to the jig. After watching your clear and detailed video, all questions have been answered. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
No problem, thanks for watching 😊
Brilliant! - I'm making one for uke necks. A job I can't do on my CNC without spending a fortune on 3D software! A further mod might be a perspex cover box that the router runs along a slot with adjustable end stops. The box allows extraction and you can still see the job. Thank you so much for your work Randy.
Fantastic. Best explanation of a neck copying jig that I’ve seen. I’m definitely going to give it a try.
Thanks
Love your videos! Thanks for doing them.
🙏
This is a very bright idea. I have been looking for something similar. God bless you
Thanks 😊
This was a need trick for copying a neck shape. Thanks mate 🙂
@@michaelkaastrup5429 🙏
fantastic content , I see some neck building in my future🤠
What a wealth of knowledge !! thanks for posting this
Cool revisions. Good video...
Thanks 🙏
Very Skilled my friend!!!
awesome videos Randy using your jigs and love them The question I have is how to make a cam/puck without a neck to copy I have a CAD file for a guitar but there's no profile Look forward to your Genius ideas
Thanks so much
This is awesome. Thanks!
Thanks
think you could make a arch top jig as well
wat im thinking is to use the router mounted on a arm hinged on one end to a rail mecanism that can move the arm across the body possibly using a window motor and a piece of alltread to move it smoothly towards the center of the rotating body
the body be spinning horizontally and the other end of the arm opposite the hinge moving over the jig thats rotating at the same speed using a chain and two sprockets
the arm moving along a track from the outside toward the center (maibe using a windshield wiper motor driving a piece of alltread to move it smoothly ) and cut the arch in a spiral pattern from the outside in
to make the jig / cam mould you need to be using an existing archtop body and mount the router on the other end of the setup to cut the jig , since the jig sits on the end of the arm and furter away from the original the jig will end up larger than the part you be making , think the jig could be made from mdf
think the whole "machine" end up about 3 times the size of a guitarbody both in length and width
another thing you probably need to do when making the jig is create sumting that prevent a too harsh hit of both the bearing follower and the routerbit against the edges of the guitar shape , think the jig/ cam mould would need to be round and have ramps intoo the arch wish you might need to make by placing a board cut perfectly around the original guitar shape youre making the mould off and raise that board untill its level with the edges of the binding , or set a stop on the arm so it doesnt go below that edge when cutting the cam jig
Oh wow, sounds like you’ve put some thought into this. Keep those wheels in your head turning.👍
I have been wondering if there is a way to make just one frame that can do any scale length neck shaping. I have to think on it some more. I am now a subscriber to your channel. Thanks!
Yes, I think one long one could do all scales if you want it to. If I had built the one for bass first, I probably would’ve done guitar necks with that. And may do that in the future. You would have to have different versions of the rotating portion.
very informative!! thanks man
Thanks 🙏
Awesome, great tutorial! The only thing im a little confused about before i start are the end center holes on the neck carriage. Should the two end centers be at the point where the fretboard meets the carriage surface, or, in this case, a neck with a 1/4" fretboard, where the fretboard base is glued to the neck? You said something about a 1/4" down to accomodate for the fretboard, or something like that, couldnt quite make it out lol. Id sure appreciate it if you could help me out with that, other than that, i think ive got it.👍
@@MJ-nd7cj Before I had built this jig, I had watched some TH-cam videos of others with similar jigs, and they were doing theirs without fretboards on and had the axis center where the fretboard would have met the neck, but of course no fretboard on it. I’m doing mine with the fretboards on so I added a quarter inch, raising the center of the axis a 1/4” above the surface of the carriage. I don’t know that it would make that much difference one way or the other. As long as your cams were created with the quarter inch compensation. I hope that makes sense.😬 Thanks
@@randysguitarsbroncos223Thank you Randy! And yes, that makes sense. Ive seen those vids and some other drawings too, which probably added to my confusion lol. I like your version, and thanks again, i really appreciate it!👍👍
Randy - I've been enjoying watching all of your videos. I am going to build this copier as I am wanting to change the neck on one of my guitars. If possible, I would like to make a copy of the neck profile of my PRS guitar but it has a set neck. After thinking about this for a little I am wondering if I could use a carpenter's Profile Contour tool to create the pucks. Do you know if anyone has tried that already?
@@dfranks50 The cams or pucks in the profile jig are bigger than the contour of the neck, so using a profile contour tool, it would need to be enlarged about one inch, as I demonstrate near the end of this video. In another video, I show how I produced cams without the neck. And here’s the link.
th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KmokqEnIfSOIyz75
WOW, so cool!!. I started to build my own Bass jig a few days ago and this is a great help. I now have a much better understanding , tomorrow I'm slotting the carriage, my end pieces are done, then moving on to the cams. I was thinking of making the cam blanks slightly larger and cutting the stops right out of the cam sides (like bumpouts) to stop the carriage from turning more than the edge of the neck. Cool adjustment at the heel. Anyhow, loved this video, thank you again. Please show the final results of the completed bass necks.
Thanks, I will post results. Not sure when, as I need to finish the two Tele’s beforehand
@@randysguitarsbroncos223 Cool, whenever you have time. I slotted the carriage today, I will work on the end blocks and cams. Say, would you also be able to show how you managed to make those ramps? Appreciate you, thanks
I will try to make a ramp video, not sure when though
Juts trying to think how to look in a headstock that is angled back a bit?
Would it be possible to use this jig to radius fretboards too? Seems it would be particularly great for compound radius fretboards.
I think it could be adapted for making compound radius fretboards. Think about it, the back of a Guitar neck is a compound radius, just a much tighter radius. Thanks for sharing, I may try it.
You could probably measure the distance between the cutting head and the bottom of the bearings, and that would be your offset. If for example the offset is 1", and you're going for a 12' radius fretboard, the puck would be a 13" radius on which the bearing rides.@@randysguitarsbroncos223
I noticed the new ramps on the side rails ( on the guitar version) but you don't mention them. Is that to get a smooth transition to the headstock and neck pocket?
Yes, that’s what they are for. I mentioned them in this video “Building a Fender Style Neck, Pt 4”about 7 minutes in, but don’t go into any detail. I think I’ll do a video about them sometime soon.
th-cam.com/video/QYtYbEViIGU/w-d-xo.html
Here’s a video about how the ramps are created
th-cam.com/video/hdC5Mm0O0DE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for another great video. I watch the ramp video just now. My original plan was to use a CNC but I'm going to try this first for sure.
Randy, Ive got a question if you could answer please. I build this jig not quite the same but close. But to the point. Ive been practicing on pine before I use the real thing. the first time I did it the neck came out fine, the next time I tried it gave me a larger not sure how to word this. Progressive bottom and less top of the neck shape. My guess is because the neck wasn't centered? maybe? Thank you By the way great videos learned a lot for ya. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Making sure it is centered seems like it could be the issue. You may have watched this video I made but it shows how I centered the neck in the jig. Hope this helps😊
th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iAD_qHENYydBskNn
Question: on the removable pieces, with the dowels that ride on the original neck to mark the pucks, the length of the part of the dowel that is sticking out is 3/4"? I'm assuming 3/4" for the MDF board that rides between the sides and another 3/4" of dowel sticking out for a total of 1.5" from the top of the rails to the bottom of the dowel, correct?
I made mine to ride on top of the rails, with the dowel sticking out 1.5", just like the router bit, and with test cuts, it's cutting the sides of the neck too narrow, but the thickness is fine. It looks like the pucks are being marked too narrow, and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
1.5" total from the top of the rails to the bottom of the dowel, is correct. With the neck that you're ready to route, mounted and centered in the jig, hold the neck at a 90 degree angle and check for 1.5" down to the side of the neck from the top of the rail (bottom of router base) If you get something less than that, then the cam is to narrow. Or, you could only allow your router bit to go to that depth and then remove a little from the top of the cams to get the neck thickness.
I have a newer video on the subject that may help.
Good luck, hope this helped. th-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=agZeEZ_G6yC4y5o8
Are all elements of the jig are the same in thickness? If not, the length of slide and the innner cam would not fit each other. Please let me know the thickness, or we can't build the jig like you. I think the Thickness would be 0.75 inch, right? plus, what is the size of a bearing (R)? wonderfull work!
All elements are .75” thickness. The bearings are standard roller skate bearings which can be purchased in sets on Amazon. Size: .87” o.d. X .31” I. D. X .27” w
Genius.
Thank you so much.
@@Guitar_Builder Thanks 🙏
How do you determine the profile of those risers on the runners that lift the sled and create the transitions?
th-cam.com/video/hdC5Mm0O0DE/w-d-xo.html
Have you seen this video, this should help explain
wow, Thank you for your quick answer. okay, today, I made a plan on cad for a jig. here's another one, you are using two different jigs for each guitar and bass. If I make only one jig for both, then make each cams and use them alternatively, does the lengh of a entire jig really affect the result? I wish your answer here.
I made the guitar jig first and then wanted to make a bass neck, so I had to make another jig. I’m sure one for a bass neck could be used for a guitar neck also.
@@randysguitarsbroncos223 amazing guru, thanks a lot
@@randysguitarsbroncos223 I wanna see how to paint and finish in fender style.
@@allthattv2680 I got 2 ready for paint I want to try to get to in the next month
I've watched this three times already all the way through. I might need help.
Did you also watch the earlier video I did on the same subject? Here’s the link th-cam.com/video/82T1tIEwMC8/w-d-xo.html
Also, watch “Building a Fender style neck, Pt 4” where I’m actually using the jig, at about 7 min in
th-cam.com/video/QYtYbEViIGU/w-d-xo.html
Is this all made of MDF?
The side rails of the stationary frame, and the stiffener of the rotating carriage are made of poplar. All held together with drywall screws. No glue.
obrigado
🙏
this is very cool and i'm way to lazy to replicate it
😆
Gimme a scraper and a spokeshave and I've carved the neck while you're still looking for the router spanner.
Nice, hopefully I'll be that good one day, still figuring things out🙂
por que tanto gasto con router copiador manual y listo mas rapido
Great stuff, thanks a million.