GENIUS! And here's my own genius contribution: I hate spring compressors, so I bought a 2nd hand strut off ebay including the spring for just £30 delivered (a new spring alone will be at least £15!). The ebay pic looked like it was in good (non-rusty) condition and it was, and it looked like a newish spring on there too, Bottle jack was brilliant. but putting the new strut on without compressing the spring was not so obvious. In the end, all I had to do was lower the sub frame - just two 22mm bolts and a small bracket. This dropped the hub assembly down far enough to easily pop the strut in (no, I didn't need take off the track rod end!) Then jacking up the hub assembly with the strut greased and located and the strut just popped right into place - wow! magic!
This is a great video that really got me out of the sh*t after my front nearside spring snapped on the Friday when I was due to be doing 1,000 ish miles of driving the following Monday. For others attempting this just beware that depending on the design of your spring compressor, you might find that if you don't remove the hub assembly then it's physically impossible to get the bottom of the strut into the hub clamp due to the threaded bar of the spring compressor hitting the top of the wing and preventing the top of the shocker from seating right at the top. I ran into this problem and the only way around it other than taking off the hub was to angle grind about 5 cm off each end of the threaded bar of my cpring compressor. It's made it useless but I just didn't have time to drop the hub so desperate measures instead. Something else important to mention that I was able to work out from the video is that if you jack the car up using the jacking point on the sill rather than using the subframe like in the video, you'll probably struggle to remove and refit the anti-roll bar link due to it being under tension and therefore out of square.
I would like to thank you very much for mentioning that arrow heads should point to outer holes. I've been searching that information quite a long time. There's plenty of videos without any hint of correct positioning - great job!
This video made my day!!! I got a stuck shock in the arm and was using the hammer for 2 hours continuously today, is the end of the day and I am exhausted! But I saw that you used that pneumatic pump or how is called and went to buy straight away a small bottle jack! It popped out in 20 seconds, straight away. Man I love you, I never thought about using similar idea! Bright! Btw, the jack was only10gbp in UK.
Having had to do this recently on a Colt and a BMW, and about to do a Mondeo Mk3, I'd add this: (BMW E46 is very similar) 1. Use a 4" angle-grinder with a thin cutting-wheel to cut away any spring that's in the way, but be careful as it can still be under tension if it's jammed against the body. I cut the BMW springs into five pieces before dismantling anything. 2. Wire-brush and spray everything you need to undo, especially exposed threads. You may need heat, but watch for rubber components. 3. Loosen (not remove) the shock top-bolt before taking out the lower clamp-bolt. If you have ANY problem removing the lower clamp-bolt, be very careful. I snapped one. It's hardened, (10.9) and a nightmare to drill out and replace. 4. Take off the track-rod end nut and pop it out, ideally with a ball-joint separator. That lets the hub assembly drop further, as does... 5. Lift both front wheels off the ground. You can then easily swing the hub assembly to the best advantage. It also stops the roll-bar from fighting you as it's full relaxed. 6. If you can, use a three-arm set of spring-compressors, like the Sealeys. Makes it far safer. If you drop the hub assembly right down, remove the compressors before fitting the shock back in place. 7. Use a bottle-jack to push the hub assembly up into the lower shock mounting. 8. Practice swearing. Having watched multiple Russian car-crash videos, my new outburst is ' Suka Bylat!! ' 9. Ideally, pay a garage.
The same spring recently broke on my husband's Mondeo and after watching this brilliant video took it to the local garage for repair. He said compressing the spring was a bit too scary to tackle!!
Great video. Now i am no longer afraid to change the spring on my own Mondeo. 👍👍👍 And its Well done in your drivay, with no lift. You have me respekt. 👍👍👍
I've done this several times on Mk3 Mondeo and fwiw here's my tips for the DIY mechanic, especially if you live in Scotland where everything is much rustier... don't try to remove the shock from the knuckle either on the car or with whole leg off (unless you have a spare knuckle with a new wheel-bearing and rotor in it). The pinch bolt will probably snap in the knuckle and it's very difficult to get it out. Best thing to do is disconnect the caliper, plastic roll bar link (just top end), tie-rod, bottom ball-joint and driveshaft nut. Then push balljoint down while pushing bottom of strut in. this helps the pin stay upright and come out easily. if you have a helper here it would help but I can do it and weigh less than 10 stone. After that you can tap the driveshaft out of the hub. finally take the 3 nuts off top and lift strut away from car. use up to 4 coil-spring compressors for safety and allow 2-3 hours to compress spring, remove clamps and compress new spring. then re-fit. tricky part is getting balljoint pin to go back into knuckle. It will tilt and jam so again it helps if someone can push the leg in as you guide pin into the hole. banging with hammers to get pin in and out does nothing as the rubber bushes absorb the movement.
Tommi A. seriously be careful..they are f##king deadly springs to fit..personally I would pull the shocks out and get a garage with a good spring compressor to fit the springs...those springs have no mercy...they'll rip your face off....and don't believe all this bullshit on some sites about using cables ties etc.
after I done this on my dad's one I went out and bought foot long compressors having to use 4 to compress the spring enough was not safe plus my compressors would not fit in the arch. so what I done was drop the subframe slightly. support the subframe on that side with the jack. remove the rear bolt fully, and it think there was one in the middle that can come out then the front one undo it about 5 full turns and lower the jack. there is enough flex in the subframe bushes for it to drop that side about 2 or 3 inches and allow you to put the knuckle on the strut easily. sounds like hassle but it takes 5 minutes and saves a lot of swearing. just don't take the front bolt out or it's a nightmare to get the subframe lined up.
I never thought of just removing the floating part of the caliper. I've always removed the frame from the knuckle but your way makes more sense as it's easier to do.
I like the idea of using the hydraulic press to separate the strut, it saves the hassle of removing the lower ball joint which is an absolute nightmare!
great video and job made quicker by use of buzz-gun and what seems like no rusted fasteners. if you're a DIY guy and car is rusty allow full weekend to do it and it's a good idea to have all the new fasteners before you do the job (bottom pinch bolt+nut, caliper mount screws, knuckle pinch bolt). the caliper screws can be very hard to get off but I have found if you round off the heads you can hammer on a flank-drive 6 point socket and have another go.
Nightmare and bloody dangerous those mk3 springs,mines a v6...even on stand type compressor it was a pain...I like the way you took the shock out..we usually pull the whole leg /hub out...your clamp/ pinch bolt must have been replaced,usually splined and a pain in the ass...good video.
Well I just did this job too.... Had a hydraulic spring compressor for years, used it on about 30 cars I think. First time on a mk3 and first time I couldn't compress the spring enough to make it fit. Can't believe how much tension is on these things.
Great vid, thanks mate. It's got to worth saying how much damage that the human body (and anything else in the way) can incur if those spring compressors slip off or break....worth watching a few vids to minimise the risks...
Really !!! ... Your video showed little connection with my reality. Firstly my anti roll bar link was rotted into place, the top nut simply cheesed off into roundness, and with no other way of removing it, I resulted in cutting it in half with an angle grinder. ( Bottom nut inaccessible with strut in place). The shock bottom clamp was rotted into place too. So I took a leaf from your book and using a small scissor jack put pressure on it, plus plenty of WD 40 and left it under pressure for 24 hours, checking at intervals and adding a half turn when possible to do so. This worked and it was finally removed. Those springs are rather treacherous. But if care is taken the compressors won't slip. My concern is that it takes so much compression to get the top nut back on. My coils were actually touching each other, I was beginning to think that some previous owner had fitted short shocks .When removing the compressors the shock didn't get any longer, besides this, my compressors appear to be too big to allow the assembly to be replaced under compression.. So with angle grinder removal and refitting of a new anti roll link, I'm left with the problem of a strut assembly that is too long to be fitted into the bottom clamp. It;s now just hanging there. Looks like I'll have to buy some more compressor clamps that are less heavy duty and will fit into the space provided. Although I'm not sure that this is going to cure the problem of too much length in the strut assembly. It simply didn't alter in length when the initial compression was released. Putting it mildly, I would say that your car was a "set up" piece, where everything came apart so easily and nothing really reflected the reality that most old motors are pretty much corroded together.
I feel for you, mine was a difficult to do, but not as bad as yours, it definitely was not a set up, I was fortunate not to break anything hope you can fix it 👍🏻👍🏻
Fixed it... I decided not to make Sunday a day of rest and proceeded to slightly re-engineer the heavy duty compressors so that they could be removed from the underside of the strut. So, I re-clamped the spring and found that I could still reduce the length by 2 inches. After a lot of fiddling about. JOB DONE.. Just for the record, I was quoted £160 by a local garage to do this job and I did it for £40 including the new anti roll link and compressors.. Plenty of hanging about for eBay to deliver the parts meant the job took a week, but that's OK . Certainly acceptable when you consider the savings. Thanks for the inspiring video, that made it look so easy ... :-)
Having trouble getting the spring compressed enough so i can get the shockabsorber out of the bottom clamp, have taken loose the the arm on the ?swaybar? (not sure of the name) taken loose the steering arm, still cant get the wheel hub down the last 2 inches needed. any ideas? btw a good tip when using that kind of spring compressors is placing a hose clamp on each side of the hook\claw :) saved me some scary spring action on earlier coil spring changes :)
If you can’t get it out can you fit the spring compressor in situ, to give a bit more, or cut the broken spring with a angle grinder 👍🏻👍🏻Thanks for watching 👍🏻
was gonne link you the type of spring compressor I have but youtube denied my posting a link :( but it's a little massive so was only able to get it on two of the spirals. But when comparing to your video it almost seems like you have shorter shocks and springs than I do, mine is almost at the same place when i startet as yours are at the lowest point/nearest the ground. But i'll just take off the hole wheel hub if neceseary ^^ but that jack ram you used where can these be bought and are they expensive? feel it would have saved me a couple of hours of anger and dispair ^^
I had to compress the spring in the Strut to refit it to the car, the ram was from machine mart, but a bottle jack might do the same job, it’s great for popping out struts.
Great video mate but I have a quick question for you if you dont mind... what is the correct position for the the top strut mount... I recently had my front driver's side spring replaced but I now get a knocking noise from that area when going over bumps in the road... I have read about incorrect top strut mount 0lacement can cause it but I'm not sure where the green line should be positioned as the garage claim it doesnt matter
Got as far as the 15mm pinch bolt, broke a 15mm socket trying to unloosen it, thats how tough its in, then the other 15mm socket has gone and rounded it!!
@@aaanton11 It stresses the Bushes on the lower wishbone if you don't lower subframe. Also really difficult to push the knuckle down enough without your hydraulic ram.
Koszonetemet szeretnem kifelyezni szamodra magyarorszagrol . Tegnap a Ford Orionon automon a modszereddel sikeresen kicsereltem az elso lengescsillapitokat . Kulombseg a te modszeredhez kepest ,hogy hidralikus nyomato helyett hidralikus emelot hasznaltam .
These springs are a pain in the arse to compress. You compress them and think - yeah that'll do, then stick it back on the strut only to realise you need another 2 inches.
The method you are showing here on how to compress the coil spring is hazardous, to anyone unfamiliar with this work... this method is so dangerous it can kill or seriously hurt should the spring slip or the spring compressor snap. Which I've witnessed ...
@@aaanton11 ok, we just have to pull up the car as much as we can, and hit the hub carrier to pull it down, i think it's risky for the driveshaft if it goes out of the gearbox no ?
![How to change front springs on FORD MONDEO MK3 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kbhpEJ2Pr5w/mqdefault.jpg)
GENIUS! And here's my own genius contribution: I hate spring compressors, so I bought a 2nd hand strut off ebay including the spring for just £30 delivered (a new spring alone will be at least £15!). The ebay pic looked like it was in good (non-rusty) condition and it was, and it looked like a newish spring on there too, Bottle jack was brilliant. but putting the new strut on without compressing the spring was not so obvious. In the end, all I had to do was lower the sub frame - just two 22mm bolts and a small bracket. This dropped the hub assembly down far enough to easily pop the strut in (no, I didn't need take off the track rod end!) Then jacking up the hub assembly with the strut greased and located and the strut just popped right into place - wow! magic!
Love it !! if it works for you well done, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
This is a great video that really got me out of the sh*t after my front nearside spring snapped on the Friday when I was due to be doing 1,000 ish miles of driving the following Monday.
For others attempting this just beware that depending on the design of your spring compressor, you might find that if you don't remove the hub assembly then it's physically impossible to get the bottom of the strut into the hub clamp due to the threaded bar of the spring compressor hitting the top of the wing and preventing the top of the shocker from seating right at the top.
I ran into this problem and the only way around it other than taking off the hub was to angle grind about 5 cm off each end of the threaded bar of my cpring compressor. It's made it useless but I just didn't have time to drop the hub so desperate measures instead.
Something else important to mention that I was able to work out from the video is that if you jack the car up using the jacking point on the sill rather than using the subframe like in the video, you'll probably struggle to remove and refit the anti-roll bar link due to it being under tension and therefore out of square.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I would like to thank you very much for mentioning that arrow heads should point to outer holes. I've been searching that information quite a long time. There's plenty of videos without any hint of correct positioning - great job!
+Jouko Haapoja happy to help
Impressive that you managed this, without having to remove the hub from the wishbone.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
This video made my day!!! I got a stuck shock in the arm and was using the hammer for 2 hours continuously today, is the end of the day and I am exhausted! But I saw that you used that pneumatic pump or how is called and went to buy straight away a small bottle jack! It popped out in 20 seconds, straight away. Man I love you, I never thought about using similar idea! Bright! Btw, the jack was only10gbp in UK.
+djas macco fantastic job, they can be tight👍🏻👍🏻
Hi, I’m considering taking this on. Don’t suppose you have a link to the jack you bought??
Having watched this, I'm happy that the garage earned their money today doing mine. Blimey . . . What a job!
Yep it’s a stinker👍🏻👍🏻thanks for watching
Having had to do this recently on a Colt and a BMW, and about to do a Mondeo Mk3, I'd add this: (BMW E46 is very similar)
1. Use a 4" angle-grinder with a thin cutting-wheel to cut away any spring that's in the way, but be careful as it can still be under tension if it's jammed against the body. I cut the BMW springs into five pieces before dismantling anything.
2. Wire-brush and spray everything you need to undo, especially exposed threads. You may need heat, but watch for rubber components.
3. Loosen (not remove) the shock top-bolt before taking out the lower clamp-bolt. If you have ANY problem removing the lower clamp-bolt, be very careful. I snapped one. It's hardened, (10.9) and a nightmare to drill out and replace.
4. Take off the track-rod end nut and pop it out, ideally with a ball-joint separator. That lets the hub assembly drop further, as does...
5. Lift both front wheels off the ground. You can then easily swing the hub assembly to the best advantage. It also stops the roll-bar from fighting you as it's full relaxed.
6. If you can, use a three-arm set of spring-compressors, like the Sealeys. Makes it far safer. If you drop the hub assembly right down, remove the compressors before fitting the shock back in place.
7. Use a bottle-jack to push the hub assembly up into the lower shock mounting.
8. Practice swearing. Having watched multiple Russian car-crash videos, my new outburst is ' Suka Bylat!! '
9. Ideally, pay a garage.
Love it👍🏻 not a easy one to do, but appreciate the great information in your comments, thanks for watching 👍🏻👍🏻
😊
Чувак я скоро буду это делать и думаю что будет много ругательств 😂
The same spring recently broke on my husband's Mondeo and after watching this brilliant video took it to the local garage for repair. He said compressing the spring was a bit too scary to tackle!!
Great stuff Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great video. Now i am no longer afraid to change the spring on my own Mondeo. 👍👍👍
And its Well done in your drivay, with no lift. You have me respekt. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
I've done this several times on Mk3 Mondeo and fwiw here's my tips for the DIY mechanic, especially if you live in Scotland where everything is much rustier... don't try to remove the shock from the knuckle either on the car or with whole leg off (unless you have a spare knuckle with a new wheel-bearing and rotor in it). The pinch bolt will probably snap in the knuckle and it's very difficult to get it out. Best thing to do is disconnect the caliper, plastic roll bar link (just top end), tie-rod, bottom ball-joint and driveshaft nut. Then push balljoint down while pushing bottom of strut in. this helps the pin stay upright and come out easily. if you have a helper here it would help but I can do it and weigh less than 10 stone. After that you can tap the driveshaft out of the hub. finally take the 3 nuts off top and lift strut away from car. use up to 4 coil-spring compressors for safety and allow 2-3 hours to compress spring, remove clamps and compress new spring. then re-fit. tricky part is getting balljoint pin to go back into knuckle. It will tilt and jam so again it helps if someone can push the leg in as you guide pin into the hole. banging with hammers to get pin in and out does nothing as the rubber bushes absorb the movement.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Good video. I'm replacing struts today on my ST220. I'm glad someone does these videos so I can be somewhat sure what I'm doing.
Tommi A. seriously be careful..they are f##king deadly springs to fit..personally I would pull the shocks out and get a garage with a good spring compressor to fit the springs...those springs have no mercy...they'll rip your face off....and don't believe all this bullshit on some sites about using cables ties etc.
Mark Brock it went well. I happen to have a wide range of tools and a garage. Skills developing on the way.
Tommi A. glad to hear..well done..pita though lol
after I done this on my dad's one I went out and bought foot long compressors having to use 4 to compress the spring enough was not safe plus my compressors would not fit in the arch. so what I done was drop the subframe slightly. support the subframe on that side with the jack. remove the rear bolt fully, and it think there was one in the middle that can come out then the front one undo it about 5 full turns and lower the jack. there is enough flex in the subframe bushes for it to drop that side about 2 or 3 inches and allow you to put the knuckle on the strut easily. sounds like hassle but it takes 5 minutes and saves a lot of swearing. just don't take the front bolt out or it's a nightmare to get the subframe lined up.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I never thought of just removing the floating part of the caliper. I've always removed the frame from the knuckle but your way makes more sense as it's easier to do.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I like the idea of using the hydraulic press to separate the strut, it saves the hassle of removing the lower ball joint which is an absolute nightmare!
+S Fergus it is a great bit of kit👍🏻
one word, GENIUS!🤝
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
great video and job made quicker by use of buzz-gun and what seems like no rusted fasteners. if you're a DIY guy and car is rusty allow full weekend to do it and it's a good idea to have all the new fasteners before you do the job (bottom pinch bolt+nut, caliper mount screws, knuckle pinch bolt). the caliper screws can be very hard to get off but I have found if you round off the heads you can hammer on a flank-drive 6 point socket and have another go.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Nightmare and bloody dangerous those mk3 springs,mines a v6...even on stand type compressor it was a pain...I like the way you took the shock out..we usually pull the whole leg /hub out...your clamp/ pinch bolt must have been replaced,usually splined and a pain in the ass...good video.
+Mark Brock cheers bud 👌👍🏻and I still have all my fingers😄
Well I just did this job too.... Had a hydraulic spring compressor for years, used it on about 30 cars I think. First time on a mk3 and first time I couldn't compress the spring enough to make it fit. Can't believe how much tension is on these things.
Yes they are one tight cookie, not my favourite job, thanks for watching 👍🏻👍🏻
Great vid, thanks mate. It's got to worth saying how much damage that the human body (and anything else in the way) can incur if those spring compressors slip off or break....worth watching a few vids to minimise the risks...
I hate compressing springs, always relieved when the top nut is back on👍🏻👍🏻
Sealey make longer spring compressors that are handy for mondeo Springs which are notoriously long.
I need some of those 😂 Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Really !!! ... Your video showed little connection with my reality. Firstly my anti roll bar link was rotted into place, the top nut simply cheesed off into roundness, and with no other way of removing it, I resulted in cutting it in half with an angle grinder. ( Bottom nut inaccessible with strut in place).
The shock bottom clamp was rotted into place too. So I took a leaf from your book and using a small scissor jack put pressure on it, plus plenty of WD 40 and left it under pressure for 24 hours, checking at intervals and adding a half turn when possible to do so. This worked and it was finally removed.
Those springs are rather treacherous. But if care is taken the compressors won't slip. My concern is that it takes so much compression to get the top nut back on. My coils were actually touching each other, I was beginning to think that some previous owner had fitted short shocks .When removing the compressors the shock didn't get any longer, besides this, my compressors appear to be too big to allow the assembly to be replaced under compression..
So with angle grinder removal and refitting of a new anti roll link, I'm left with the problem of a strut assembly that is too long to be fitted into the bottom clamp. It;s now just hanging there.
Looks like I'll have to buy some more compressor clamps that are less heavy duty and will fit into the space provided. Although I'm not sure that this is going to cure the problem of too much length in the strut assembly. It simply didn't alter in length when the initial compression was released.
Putting it mildly, I would say that your car was a "set up" piece, where everything came apart so easily and nothing really reflected the reality that most old motors are pretty much corroded together.
I feel for you, mine was a difficult to do, but not as bad as yours, it definitely was not a set up, I was fortunate not to break anything hope you can fix it 👍🏻👍🏻
Fixed it... I decided not to make Sunday a day of rest and proceeded to slightly re-engineer the heavy duty compressors so that they could be removed from the underside of the strut. So, I re-clamped the spring and found that I could still reduce the length by 2 inches.
After a lot of fiddling about. JOB DONE..
Just for the record, I was quoted £160 by a local garage to do this job and I did it for £40 including the new anti roll link and compressors..
Plenty of hanging about for eBay to deliver the parts meant the job took a week, but that's OK . Certainly acceptable when you consider the savings.
Thanks for the inspiring video, that made it look so easy ... :-)
Thanks, so glad you fixed it, well done for your enginuity 👍🏻👍🏻
you can actually grip flats on back of ball-joint on link if you are really stuck but this involves removing the boot
Thanks for the video. Are there any reference marks on the top mount to indicate where the spring sits, or does it matter?
you can see where the old spring was sitting just put it back the same, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great video,but what a struggle you had! I think i will take mine to the garage, WELL DONE !
Thanks ,the older they get, the harder they are to strip down👍🏻👍🏻
Having trouble getting the spring compressed enough so i can get the shockabsorber out of the bottom clamp, have taken loose the the arm on the ?swaybar? (not sure of the name) taken loose the steering arm, still cant get the wheel hub down the last 2 inches needed. any ideas?
btw a good tip when using that kind of spring compressors is placing a hose clamp on each side of the hook\claw :) saved me some scary spring action on earlier coil spring changes :)
If you can’t get it out can you fit the spring compressor in situ, to give a bit more, or cut the broken spring with a angle grinder 👍🏻👍🏻Thanks for watching 👍🏻
was gonne link you the type of spring compressor I have but youtube denied my posting a link :( but it's a little massive so was only able to get it on two of the spirals.
But when comparing to your video it almost seems like you have shorter shocks and springs than I do, mine is almost at the same place when i startet as yours are at the lowest point/nearest the ground.
But i'll just take off the hole wheel hub if neceseary ^^
but that jack ram you used where can these be bought and are they expensive? feel it would have saved me a couple of hours of anger and dispair ^^
I had to compress the spring in the Strut to refit it to the car, the ram was from machine mart, but a bottle jack might do the same job, it’s great for popping out struts.
Great video mate but I have a quick question for you if you dont mind... what is the correct position for the the top strut mount... I recently had my front driver's side spring replaced but I now get a knocking noise from that area when going over bumps in the road... I have read about incorrect top strut mount 0lacement can cause it but I'm not sure where the green line should be positioned as the garage claim it doesnt matter
Not sure , I would always put it back as it came off, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Did you find out as im having the same problem lol
The top mount has an arrow pointing front to back.. this should point down the side of the wing at the front.
Safer with 3 clamps and never put your hand between the coils when compressing the spring.
+pat gal its safer to let someone else do it lol 😂
Where did you get those spring compressors? Can't find any dual thread ones that are long enough 😕
these should be long enough,amzn.to/38ip0uB
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
what happens if the spring lower part didnt rotate till its very end of the rubber seat ? is it still ok?
Thanks for watching, It needs to be close, but they usually work into place as long as it sits centrally 👍🏻👍🏻
In fairness those clamps are bloody dangerous! I used them for a while then tried the claw ones which were much better and didn't slip at all 👍🏻
Might need to get some new ones 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Got a link to the spring compressors??
Thanks Conner these look great amzn.to/3j8pObz 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Glad to see you ended up using a ratchet to compress the spring, using an impact gun is not a good idea and dangerous
I hate compressing springs, and by compressors are not very good, but we got there in the end Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I broke the bracket where my coil spring sets in and the bar that goes to it on my grand Cherokee!! Is it replaceable and ok to drive till I do🤣😎
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
doesn't sound too good mate, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great video. Where did you buy that hydraulic press tool ? Does it have a name ?
It’s from machine mart, a Clarke body ram, but it’s very versatile, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video and thank you, where is the little hydraulic ram from please?
Regards Jay
They are on amazon amzn.to/37sNG4P Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
6:04. Anyone watching It is recommended by Ford and Haines to partially lower subframe before removing strut.
Thanks for the great information 👍🏻👍🏻
Your welcome @@aaanton11
Got as far as the 15mm pinch bolt, broke a 15mm socket trying to unloosen it, thats how tough its in, then the other 15mm socket has gone and rounded it!!
Nightmare job, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 It's going to get replaced but the whole strut has to come out now. Great video aaanton11
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 that exhaust explosion tho 👍👌
Squeaky bum time😂 Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
You should drop the subframe to get the leg out
It’s a lot more work to drop the subframe, that’s why I avoided doing it, thanks for the great information 👍🏻👍🏻
@@aaanton11 It stresses the Bushes on the lower wishbone if you don't lower subframe. Also really difficult to push the knuckle down enough without your hydraulic ram.
I think I know that you are a mechanic but the only thing that I don't understand is why did you let the caliper hanging?
It had to come off 👍🏻thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
You should replace the brake disks too
Thanks for the comments, they are good for another 10000 miles👍🏻👍🏻
Sorry but they are not. And don't let the caliper hang to the brake hose.
I've had mk1 mk2 and mk3 mondeo's and front springs have snapped on every one
Common faults on most vehicles nowadays, poor quality springs 🙈thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Koszonetemet szeretnem kifelyezni szamodra magyarorszagrol . Tegnap a Ford Orionon automon a modszereddel sikeresen kicsereltem az elso lengescsillapitokat . Kulombseg a te modszeredhez kepest ,hogy hidralikus nyomato helyett hidralikus emelot hasznaltam .
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
These springs are a pain in the arse to compress. You compress them and think - yeah that'll do, then stick it back on the strut only to realise you need another 2 inches.
😂 I think these are the worst ones I have ever done Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Looks a bit bum squeaky for me compressing that spring 😮
😂 very, need some new compressors, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
That almost when bad lol I hate these styles of spring compressors
Not my favourite job, always risking a spring in the chops😂👍🏻👍🏻Thanks for the great comments
The method you are showing here on how to compress the coil spring is hazardous, to anyone unfamiliar with this work... this method is so dangerous it can kill or seriously hurt should the spring slip or the spring compressor snap. Which I've witnessed ...
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Without touching the driveshaft ????? What ?
Yep! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 ok, we just have to pull up the car as much as we can, and hit the hub carrier to pull it down, i think it's risky for the driveshaft if it goes out of the gearbox no ?
don't you have to drop the subframe because of the hydraulic bushes on the wishbones
+Darryl Curtis no 👍🏻don't touch the subframe, I didn't
yes
Mondeos front spring is a pig to compress
One of the worst I have done, they are massive uncompressed, and a right pig 🐖 to squash 🛠👍🏻👍🏻Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
Poxy adverts
Thanks for watching 🚘👍🏻👍🏻
Painful video
Very painful, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
take your watch off
save your money mix petrol with oil 60 oil 40 petrol spray bottle saves you buying wd 40 works wonders
If I take my watch off, how will I know when it’s tea break?? Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🚘