Live in South Africa. Find your tutorials so very informative, helpful and inspiring! Just not able to get all products you name, but that does not detract from the positives! Thanks again!
Thanks so much for watching and for the nice comment! Most of the brands (with a few exceptions) I talk about can be purchased from Jackson's in the UK...they ship worldwide. :) www.jacksonsart.com
Thank you so much for this video. I am amazed with the chemistry of paint. Knowing in the beginning we made our colors from the ground, plants and rocks. Very interesting and clear understanding of your presentation. I learned something today.
Thank you again - I am a late-comer to the art world. When you speak it is always done kindly and very professionally. You have no idea how you have helped me down here at my grass-roots level!!!
Thanks. I spend so much time looking at the numerous names at the art store unsure of the paint's use or qualities. This helps explain, and keeps me from purchasing duplicates of the same pigment under another name. Did not know there was a cool umber. Your demonstrations are always informative & helpful.
really nice sir,I am a self taught artist from books and by trial and error .your Vdo shows the path is still very far and miles to go before I can call myself a artist a slowed down speech would be just fine.thank you sir
Great job explaining the earth colors, now one question Master Jason, what do we need to be do or be careful with, when painting cooper tone items, because sometimes they look like more like terracota clay than cooper metal ones
Thanks for watching and great question! The key to depicting copper is in using the correct value placement, reflections and highlights. That's what tells our brains we are looking at shiny copper and not terra cotta. I made a video on this you might find helpful :) th-cam.com/video/K1icS4_UmKE/w-d-xo.html
you should mix with a lead white and a titanium white for each. Thank you so much for the video it was awesome, I am into old master pallates and older pigments.
It’s amazing how different the hie of the various burnt and raw siennas are between different brands. I find many burnt siennas are too red and most raw siennas are too yellow.
Yes that is true! It depends on the pigment source and which shade the paint maker decides to use. That's why so many artists often don't stick with one brand. They'll buy the particular colors they like from a bunch of different brands. For example my favorite Yellow Ochre is the one from Rembrandt, but my favorite Raw Umber is Vasari's. Thanks for watching! :)
Burnt sienna is a dark dull orange belonging to the orange family, transparent and good for glazing, mixed with white it makes good flesh tones, it comes from Raw sienna which is less commonly used, darker and duller than Yellow ochre, more bluey, similar to Yellow ochre and you can choose one or the other. Raw umber (warm) is dull but has a warmth to it, Raw umber (cool) is greyer. Burnt umber is more transparent, more warm and brown and great for landscapes when mixing blue and greens and painting brass and gold. Yellow ochre, Burnt sienna and Burnt umber are the most common earth colours. Transparent oxide brown is an alternative and warmer than the Burnt umber. (Red ochre, Terra Rosa or Venetian red) makes great flesh tones and salmon colours.
Jason are you ok? Haven't heard from you for years... I really enjoyed your colour reviews and miss them so much... I hope you are okay...God bless you.
Thanks for checking in! I am fine...I just stopped posting videos during the pandemic and never got started again. I hope to maybe someday, but not sure on that yet. Thanks for watching! :)
@walcottfineart5088 I'm so glad you're fine and well! Yes, Jason, it would be so amazing to see you back with your knowledge and share it with all of us. Anyways, it's good to know you're fine well and fine. Thanks for your vids and time spent making them!
Fun fact: Raw Umber comes from Umbria in Italy. The name that it was called initially was Burnt Umbra or Terre d'ombra, but was mispelled as Burnt Umber. BUT... it is not actually worng to call it burnt umber, because Umbria came from latin Ombre, which means "shadow". I think "umber" in english also means "shadow", right?
Hi Jason, again learning a lot for your videos. I'm trying watch all your videos. I'm not sure if I did. I steal have a hart time with Value and Saturation. thank you very mach.
thanks, very usefull. But a Question: van dick brown is a brown used? The color obtained mixing red ochre and white is similar to color of the skin, it is possible to use this colour for paintin face? hi, thank you
Thanks for the nice comment! Skin has many colors, depending on the lighting but, yes, you could use red ochre and white as a base color for portraits. You might need to warm it up a bit. Genuine Van Dyke Brown was an older color which was very fugitive. Tubes with this name today are usually mixtures of other colors, or variations on Burnt Umber.
I was under the impression burnt sienna is typically PBr7 with Pr101 being called transparent oxide red / transparent burnt sienna though sometimes just burnt sienna like your tube but that's a bit rarer. I mention it only because you compared the two and said they only have a slight difference in color, but if you compare Pbr7 and Pr101 burnt sienna there is quite a difference in transparency, or at least that's what I've found. Hue as well but it's normal for that to vary just between brands.
Thanks for watching and for commenting! It just depends on the manufacturer. Some call PBr7 Burnt Sienna and some call PR101 Burnt Sienna. There is no differentiation between hues within the same Pigment Index numbers. :) Here's a good older video (not mine) that shows the differences! th-cam.com/video/5sAuynxWqs4/w-d-xo.html
No, the pigment numbers with earth colors can be a little murky since the same one will cover many shades of that pigment. The best way is to test the color or look at a sample chart made with the real paint. The PI numbers are more about identifying the chemical components of the pigment rather than its exact color. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks for your explanation. I think I understand it now. Pigments can have the same index number, but how they're processed results in different hues.
Do you find burnt umber becomes dull when paint is dry? It seems it absorbs a lot of oil and make certain areas sink. It's too bad because burnt umber is a very balanced brown.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Burnt Umber will tend do that as will some other colors. It's called "sinking in" and is perfectly normal. It depends on the chemical make up of the pigment, which is what causes it. It is easily fixed by "oiling out". This video by Gamblin explains the process: th-cam.com/video/PvY_rl1dmkU/w-d-xo.html You don't have to use their products though. Hope that helps!
"because of that transparency, it makes really good darks" I've noticed this from my own experimentation but I have no idea why it is true. Are you able to elaborate any more on this?
It's hard to say what colors to use since that depends a lot on the subject and the artist, but certainly red earth colors like terra rosa and burnt sienna would be in the mix. Basically it IS the same stuff that makes the rocks red! Thanks for watching and for a great question. :)
I have never used the Transparent Oxide Yellow, but I would think it is probably very close to Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna, just maybe a little darker in mass tone. I do use Yellow Ochre which is a bit more opaque and a wonderful color! All the earth colors will be very lightfast. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for watching! Creating a "tawny" yellowish-brown color is pretty easy. You can mix Burnt Umber or Burnt Sienna with a warm yellow like Cadmium Yellow and then lighten it with white. Hope that helps!
Hello sir, I know I’m about to ask you a weird question but this question has been haunting me for quite sometime now. I just love to paint. I’ve made a lot of canvas paintings and I’ve noticed that with each painting I’ve improved my skills. But I don’t have a college degree in fine arts. Though I try to take you tube classes and learn new techniques from experts like you. Still, It bothers me sometimes. Is it necessary for a painter to have a degree in fine arts to be a good painter? And if yes, the how should one start in their late 20s.
Thanks for watching and for the great question! It is absolutely NOT necessary to have a formal degree in art to be good or succesful at it! I know of many talented and wonderful artists who came to it later in life and do just fine. I will say that having a degree in fine art has given me a framework in which I can orient myself artistically, but most of the technique and skill I have acquired came later through lots and lots pf practice and things like workshops and online videos. I watched a lot of TH-cam for years before I started my own channel. It is never too late to pursue a degree if you want to, but it is certainly not required. Late 20s? You are still SO young and have lots of time to get where you want to go. :)
Walcott Fine Art Thankyou so much for such a great advice sir. Your channel has become an inspiration for me from last few months. I’m learning so much from your videos. Thanx a lot sir😊
Thanks for watching! Raw Sienna tends to be a bit more transparent than Yellow Ochre, but both of them are fairly opaque compared to the really transparent earth colors like Burnt Sienna or Transparent Red Oxide. Hope that helps! :)
Thanks for commenting and watching! I haven't had a chance to test any of the Williamsburg specialty French and Italian earths...I might give them a try sometime. :)
Not quite 'earthy', but there's two other iron-based pigments that I'd consider part of the earth colors family: terra verte / verona green / green earth (iron potassium silicate) and mars black (magnetite, a magnetic iron oxide).
Yes, very true! Green earth (terre verte) tends to be very weak in tinting strength. I've never really used it. I think I might have shown Mars Black in my black oil paint video. Thanks for watching! :)
There really is no mix for morning fog since it doesn't have a color in and of itself. We know it's foggy because of the way it influences other colors and values. It will generally make everything tend towards a mid tone grey and reduce contrast. This might warrant a video. Thanks for watching! :)
Hello, I have been using rublev oil paints for some time and for some time I have health problems: -dizziness -headache - nausea - spots appeared on my face - sometimes a lot of confusion did someone experience the same thing using rublev oil paints if so can you tell me what symptoms have you had? thank you for informing me very kind to you!
Basically. They are all in the family of pigments that are PR101, iron oxide. There are different shades though that range from warmer and redder to cooler more violety. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! Yes, I know about scumbling vs. glazing. :) You're right, I should have elaborated it further. My brain skipped to the next thing and I didn't explain it well.
Hi Jason, thanks for answering. I have no doubt you knew the difference between glazing and scumbling, it's very clear from your videos that you take the technical aspects of art very seriously and study them. Which brings me to the topic of White Spirits X Turpentine. I don't know if you've made a video on this (I'll check), but I've read that White Spirits, being a petroleum by-product is far more toxic and less compatible with oil paint than Gum Spirits of Turpentine, being a natural one. I know that many people have a problem with the smell of it, so they prefer Odourless White Spirits, despite the fact that lack of odour doesn't indicate lesser toxicity when compared to the non-odourless one. So what's your opinion on this as far as compatibility of the two? I must say that I try to use as little petroleum by-products as possible for environmental reasons, so that alone skews me away from White Spirits, but I wanted to hear your thoughts on it. Sorry for the long message and thank you very much.
OMG I have been pondering making a video about this very thing!! You are absolutely right. The odorless/mineral spirit petroleum based thinners should technically only be used for cleaning brushes...never to mix with the paint itself or make mediums. The white spirits do have a damaging effect on the oil, dissolving it slightly...genuine turpentine does not. I am planning on doing a "Mediums 2" video...I will cover this topic in that one. Thanks! :)
I wanted to share that I discovered the only other cool umber I could find. It’s a beautiful cool Italian Green Raw Umber in pure powdered pigment (so you’d just mix some w/ the oil you paint with on your palette) by Rublev. (Very high quality oil paints). It’s gorgeous. Wish I could share a photo of it. It’s very reasonably priced at approximately $7.50/ 100g (around 3.5oz). Btw, I receive no compensation for recommending that brand. I just think it’s a great quality pigment. I’ve bought several others from them as well 🙂
so informative, probably one of the best channel on TH-cam for oil paint, so appreciated!, it should gain much more popularity !!!
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you've been enjoying my channel. :)
Thanks again Jason. You have the best paint color demonstrations on TH-cam.
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! :)
I love earth colors. They’re much more beautiful than people realize.
Me too! I am always in awe of what the old masters could do with them. Thanks for watching!
just think, artists are the only people who would figure out how to make paint from dirt! Thanks again!
And rust too! LOL Thanks for watching. :)
Live in South Africa. Find your tutorials so very informative, helpful and inspiring! Just not able to get all products you name, but that does not detract from the positives! Thanks again!
Thanks so much for watching and for the nice comment! Most of the brands (with a few exceptions) I talk about can be purchased from Jackson's in the UK...they ship worldwide. :) www.jacksonsart.com
You are a brilliant teacher , thanks
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching!
Thank you so much for this video. I am amazed with the chemistry of paint. Knowing in the beginning we made our colors from the ground, plants and rocks. Very interesting and clear understanding of your presentation. I learned something today.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Jason Walcott, you really are the best!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! :)
Thank you again - I am a late-comer to the art world. When you speak it is always done kindly and very professionally. You have no idea how you have helped me down here at my grass-roots level!!!
Very good; comprehensive. I liked seeing the many different shades/tones...of these "browns".
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. :)
From Eileen. Just found your videos. Thank you. Great explanations. Glad I found you.
Thanks for being so thorough - I enjoy your vids - you got me hooked on colbalt teal
I'm glad you enjoyed this and found it useful. Thanks for watching! :)
Well done, once again great job. Very Very valuable info. Keep'em coming!!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you found the video useful.
I love this serie you do with different colors! Your channel is so great!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you found the video useful.
🥰 Love your tutorials so so well explaided 👍🏼 im so happy i found your channel
I'm so glad you've found my videos useful! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks. I spend so much time looking at the numerous names at the art store unsure of the paint's use or qualities. This helps explain, and keeps me from purchasing duplicates of the same pigment under another name. Did not know there was a cool umber. Your demonstrations are always informative & helpful.
Thank you so much for the great comment! I'm glad you find my videos useful. :)
In the last 2years since your comment ...I m sure you learnt a lot!
really nice sir,I am a self taught artist from books and by trial and error .your Vdo shows the path is still very far and miles to go before I can call myself a artist
a slowed down speech would be just fine.thank you sir
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful tutorial. I appreciate all your videos on color and color mixing.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoy my videos. :)
Thanks Sir a lot your videos are better than courses that cost hundreds of dollars , God bless your life 😊😊
Thanks so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Great job explaining the earth colors, now one question Master Jason, what do we need to be do or be careful with, when painting cooper tone items, because sometimes they look like more like terracota clay than cooper metal ones
Thanks for watching and great question! The key to depicting copper is in using the correct value placement, reflections and highlights. That's what tells our brains we are looking at shiny copper and not terra cotta. I made a video on this you might find helpful :) th-cam.com/video/K1icS4_UmKE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Jason, I learn so much from your channel.
Thanks for watching!
Great color information - always by Wilcott. But you need to adjust the angle of your light so that your shadow does not block the colors.
Burnt Umber very useful for making black with ultramarine blue. You can add a little burnt umber to Ivory black to help it dry faster.
Yes! It makes an excellent black. Thansk for watching :)
you should mix with a lead white and a titanium white for each. Thank you so much for the video it was awesome, I am into old master pallates and older pigments.
Thank you! I just ordered some transparent brown oxide. I'm doing a portrait of an African American couple right now. This color will be perfect!
Awesome! I'm so glad you found the video helpful at the right time. :) Thanks for watching...
I'm actually happy that I stumbled upon this channel :)
Thanks for such a nice comment!! :) I'm glad you are enjoying my videos.
Walcott Fine Art I really enjoyed your vids on the different mediums, different paint brands, the little art store vlog, and how oil paint is made
Thanks alot, Mr Walcott. I learned alot.
Greetings from Norway
Thank so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Another great video. I really enjoy your videos, they have so much information
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you find my videos useful. :)
Thank you so much for all your helpful videos🙏🏻👌🏻🙏🏻🤙🏻
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
Thank you so much for such interesting and valuable information. You are a genuine inspiration.
Thanks for the very nice comment and for watching! :)
It’s amazing how different the hie of the various burnt and raw siennas are between different brands. I find many burnt siennas are too red and most raw siennas are too yellow.
Yes that is true! It depends on the pigment source and which shade the paint maker decides to use. That's why so many artists often don't stick with one brand. They'll buy the particular colors they like from a bunch of different brands. For example my favorite Yellow Ochre is the one from Rembrandt, but my favorite Raw Umber is Vasari's. Thanks for watching! :)
Another great video....thank you 👏🏻😃
Thanks for watching!
Burnt sienna is a dark dull orange belonging to the orange family, transparent and good for glazing, mixed with white it makes good flesh tones, it comes from Raw sienna which is less commonly used, darker and duller than Yellow ochre, more bluey, similar to Yellow ochre and you can choose one or the other. Raw umber (warm) is dull but has a warmth to it, Raw umber (cool) is greyer. Burnt umber is more transparent, more warm and brown and great for landscapes when mixing blue and greens and painting brass and gold. Yellow ochre, Burnt sienna and Burnt umber are the most common earth colours. Transparent oxide brown is an alternative and warmer than the Burnt umber. (Red ochre, Terra Rosa or Venetian red) makes great flesh tones and salmon colours.
I love your videos, they are so full of valuable info, so helpful. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! :)
your videos are so useful for me. thank you so much
Best tutorial on earth tones!!!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Jason are you ok? Haven't heard from you for years... I really enjoyed your colour reviews and miss them so much... I hope you are okay...God bless you.
Thanks for checking in! I am fine...I just stopped posting videos during the pandemic and never got started again. I hope to maybe someday, but not sure on that yet. Thanks for watching! :)
@walcottfineart5088 I'm so glad you're fine and well! Yes, Jason, it would be so amazing to see you back with your knowledge and share it with all of us. Anyways, it's good to know you're fine well and fine. Thanks for your vids and time spent making them!
Great Lesson straight to the point. Will you please consider doing a video on Portrait and Body Flesh Palette. You are the reall deal. Thank you, R
I have a video on flesh tones! You can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/lpT21SUiMg4/w-d-xo.html Enjoy! :)
Very helpful indeed, thank you Jason
Thanks so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Thank you, this was very helpful to me! I love working with landscape colors!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing this. Very interesting and informative.
Fun fact: Raw Umber comes from Umbria in Italy. The name that it was called initially was Burnt Umbra or Terre d'ombra, but was mispelled as Burnt Umber. BUT... it is not actually worng to call it burnt umber, because Umbria came from latin Ombre, which means "shadow". I think "umber" in english also means "shadow", right?
In Arabic the word umber ( عنبر ) is the same name as amber, I think the color umber tends to look like amber
Just In my opinion..
@@ghayaym1125 italian also have this word: ambra
the mass tone on burnt sienna. Yum!!! love it
Yeah, it's a great color! Thanks for watching :)
Hi Jason, again learning a lot for your videos. I'm trying watch all your videos. I'm not sure if I did. I steal have a hart time with Value and Saturation. thank you very mach.
Thank so much for the comment! Maybe the value and saturation thing would make a good video. Thanks for the idea! :)
I'm sure I'll learn from it. Thank you so much again. You are amazing teacher.
Thanks! I'm glad my videos are helpful to you. :)
Now i'll go for burnt sienna. I was suspecting my yellows indeed.
Thanks your explanations.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching and for the comment :)
Well explained and a huge help. Thanks.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!! :)
Very interesting! Thanks for posting this!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching. :)
@@walcottfineart5088 It answered some questions I had about those exact colors
Also I love "red ochre" in the w&n line its P R102 which is natural red iron oxide I belive ; ) basiclly all the same stuff though...
Yes, very helpful! Thanks.
thanks, very usefull. But a Question: van dick brown is a brown used? The color obtained mixing red ochre and white is similar to color of the skin, it is possible to use this colour for paintin face? hi, thank you
Thanks for the nice comment! Skin has many colors, depending on the lighting but, yes, you could use red ochre and white as a base color for portraits. You might need to warm it up a bit. Genuine Van Dyke Brown was an older color which was very fugitive. Tubes with this name today are usually mixtures of other colors, or variations on Burnt Umber.
Yellow Ochre in the video looks so green.
Yeah, it's my camera that makes the colors look a little weird. It's the best i can do for now though. Thanks for watching! :)
I was under the impression burnt sienna is typically PBr7 with Pr101 being called transparent oxide red / transparent burnt sienna though sometimes just burnt sienna like your tube but that's a bit rarer. I mention it only because you compared the two and said they only have a slight difference in color, but if you compare Pbr7 and Pr101 burnt sienna there is quite a difference in transparency, or at least that's what I've found. Hue as well but it's normal for that to vary just between brands.
Thanks for watching and for commenting! It just depends on the manufacturer. Some call PBr7 Burnt Sienna and some call PR101 Burnt Sienna. There is no differentiation between hues within the same Pigment Index numbers. :) Here's a good older video (not mine) that shows the differences! th-cam.com/video/5sAuynxWqs4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks very much for this demo. As for cool and warm Raw Umber, do they have different pigment numbers?
No, the pigment numbers with earth colors can be a little murky since the same one will cover many shades of that pigment. The best way is to test the color or look at a sample chart made with the real paint. The PI numbers are more about identifying the chemical components of the pigment rather than its exact color. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks for your explanation. I think I understand it now. Pigments can have the same index number, but how they're processed results in different hues.
@@charlesreidy2765 Exactly! :)
Thank you for the video. Cheers from Brazil
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thanks for the comment and for watching! Glad you liked it.
Thank you! Most helpful!
Thanks for watching! :)
Your videos are so good!
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Beautiful Video!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! :)
Do you find burnt umber becomes dull when paint is dry? It seems it absorbs a lot of oil and make certain areas sink. It's too bad because burnt umber is a very balanced brown.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Burnt Umber will tend do that as will some other colors. It's called "sinking in" and is perfectly normal. It depends on the chemical make up of the pigment, which is what causes it. It is easily fixed by "oiling out". This video by Gamblin explains the process: th-cam.com/video/PvY_rl1dmkU/w-d-xo.html You don't have to use their products though. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much Jason. I am going to try "oil out", I don't have to wait 6 months for varnish. You are the best!
"because of that transparency, it makes really good darks" I've noticed this from my own experimentation but I have no idea why it is true. Are you able to elaborate any more on this?
Thank you very much for the tour! It IS helpful!!!
great !! thank you for this information
Jason; is Raw Umber (green shade) P Br7 considered cool?? I mean it looks fairly cool to me, but not sure how it compares to the one your using?
Thanks for wathcing! Warm and cool are always relative to a degree. Raw Umber Green would be a cool earth color color for the most part.
Thank you for this! Very Helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
what colors would you recommend when painting the red rocks of sedona??
It's hard to say what colors to use since that depends a lot on the subject and the artist, but certainly red earth colors like terra rosa and burnt sienna would be in the mix. Basically it IS the same stuff that makes the rocks red! Thanks for watching and for a great question. :)
What do you think about oxide yellow? Since you have oxide red and brown on your palette.
I have never used the Transparent Oxide Yellow, but I would think it is probably very close to Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna, just maybe a little darker in mass tone. I do use Yellow Ochre which is a bit more opaque and a wonderful color! All the earth colors will be very lightfast. Thanks for watching :)
Great Tutorial. Thanks so much for Sharing!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Jason, I am sorry you've run out of colours to cover, haha. This colour series rocks!
LOL! Thanks so much for the comment...I'm glad you enjoyed them.
i don't think that there is episode covering black/grays.
Actually there is a black episode! :) th-cam.com/video/rqFOAvajSX8/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting.
oh, how could i miss it? :P
I would like to know how to make tawny colors.. hope you can help me with it.. thanks
Thanks for watching! Creating a "tawny" yellowish-brown color is pretty easy. You can mix Burnt Umber or Burnt Sienna with a warm yellow like Cadmium Yellow and then lighten it with white. Hope that helps!
Hello sir, I know I’m about to ask you a weird question but this question has been haunting me for quite sometime now. I just love to paint. I’ve made a lot of canvas paintings and I’ve noticed that with each painting I’ve improved my skills. But I don’t have a college degree in fine arts. Though I try to take you tube classes and learn new techniques from experts like you. Still, It bothers me sometimes. Is it necessary for a painter to have a degree in fine arts to be a good painter? And if yes, the how should one start in their late 20s.
Thanks for watching and for the great question! It is absolutely NOT necessary to have a formal degree in art to be good or succesful at it! I know of many talented and wonderful artists who came to it later in life and do just fine. I will say that having a degree in fine art has given me a framework in which I can orient myself artistically, but most of the technique and skill I have acquired came later through lots and lots pf practice and things like workshops and online videos. I watched a lot of TH-cam for years before I started my own channel. It is never too late to pursue a degree if you want to, but it is certainly not required. Late 20s? You are still SO young and have lots of time to get where you want to go. :)
Walcott Fine Art Thankyou so much for such a great advice sir. Your channel has become an inspiration for me from last few months. I’m learning so much from your videos. Thanx a lot sir😊
@@incredibleniharika Best of luck to you and most of all....have fun! :)
i subscribed because of this video, very informative
Thanks for the sub and for watching! :)
raw sienna is similar in color to yellow ochre. are they both transparent?
Thanks for watching! Raw Sienna tends to be a bit more transparent than Yellow Ochre, but both of them are fairly opaque compared to the really transparent earth colors like Burnt Sienna or Transparent Red Oxide. Hope that helps! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you
thank you sir from Mexico
Thanks for watching! :)
Wow I've learned something!!!
I'm so glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching!
Very nice demonstration
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Awesome info makes sense now
Glad it was helpful! :)
Wonderful video! Very beautiful colors, I would like to suggest Italian Pink (PY 42 + PR 101) by Williamsburg, I think you will like it! :)
Thanks for commenting and watching! I haven't had a chance to test any of the Williamsburg specialty French and Italian earths...I might give them a try sometime. :)
Is transparent yellow oxide similar to yellow ochre??
Yes, it's basically a transparent version of yellow ochre. :) Thanks for watching!
Not quite 'earthy', but there's two other iron-based pigments that I'd consider part of the earth colors family: terra verte / verona green / green earth (iron potassium silicate) and mars black (magnetite, a magnetic iron oxide).
Yes, very true! Green earth (terre verte) tends to be very weak in tinting strength. I've never really used it. I think I might have shown Mars Black in my black oil paint video. Thanks for watching! :)
Very informative video , thanks !
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
thanks again! keep them coming!
I'm so glad you enjoyed the video Charlotte! Thanks for watching! :)
Very helpful ❤
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you sir. İ've just discover your channel and i subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! :)
what mix do you use for morning fog?
There really is no mix for morning fog since it doesn't have a color in and of itself. We know it's foggy because of the way it influences other colors and values. It will generally make everything tend towards a mid tone grey and reduce contrast. This might warrant a video. Thanks for watching! :)
great learning tutorial....thanks much.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found my video useful. :)
Thank you
Amazing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much
Hello, I have been using rublev oil paints for some time and for some time I have health problems:
-dizziness
-headache
- nausea
- spots appeared on my face
- sometimes a lot of confusion
did someone experience the same thing using rublev oil paints if so can you tell me what symptoms have you had? thank you for informing me very kind to you!
Great info.
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you found it useful.
Wow! You sure know your colors!
Thanks for watching! :)
Is indian red the same as terra Rosa?
Basically. They are all in the family of pigments that are PR101, iron oxide. There are different shades though that range from warmer and redder to cooler more violety. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 thank you for your response.
Hoping to see more of your vids soon.
Thank u indeed video is helpful
Nice
Thanks for watching! :)
Very interesting thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
5 stars!
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Excellent, Sir!!! : )
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
Do you have any videos on skin tones? : )
Not yet, but it's on the list. :)
Nice video, but you can only glaze with translucent colours. With opaque paints you can only scumble, never glaze.
Thanks for watching! Yes, I know about scumbling vs. glazing. :) You're right, I should have elaborated it further. My brain skipped to the next thing and I didn't explain it well.
Hi Jason, thanks for answering. I have no doubt you knew the difference between glazing and scumbling, it's very clear from your videos that you take the technical aspects of art very seriously and study them. Which brings me to the topic of White Spirits X Turpentine.
I don't know if you've made a video on this (I'll check), but I've read that White Spirits, being a petroleum by-product is far more toxic and less compatible with oil paint than Gum Spirits of Turpentine, being a natural one. I know that many people have a problem with the smell of it, so they prefer Odourless White Spirits, despite the fact that lack of odour doesn't indicate lesser toxicity when compared to the non-odourless one. So what's your opinion on this as far as compatibility of the two? I must say that I try to use as little petroleum by-products as possible for environmental reasons, so that alone skews me away from White Spirits, but I wanted to hear your thoughts on it.
Sorry for the long message and thank you very much.
OMG I have been pondering making a video about this very thing!! You are absolutely right. The odorless/mineral spirit petroleum based thinners should technically only be used for cleaning brushes...never to mix with the paint itself or make mediums. The white spirits do have a damaging effect on the oil, dissolving it slightly...genuine turpentine does not. I am planning on doing a "Mediums 2" video...I will cover this topic in that one. Thanks! :)
Great! Looking forward to it. Thanks.
I wanted to share that I discovered the only other cool umber I could find. It’s a beautiful cool Italian Green Raw Umber in pure powdered pigment (so you’d just mix some w/ the oil you paint with on your palette) by Rublev. (Very high quality oil paints). It’s gorgeous. Wish I could share a photo of it. It’s very reasonably priced at approximately $7.50/ 100g (around 3.5oz). Btw, I receive no compensation for recommending that brand. I just think it’s a great quality pigment. I’ve bought several others from them as well 🙂
I will have to try that one! Rublev is a fantastic paint! Thanks for watching :)
Interesting. They should call it roasted sienna 😉
Altamira. You know?.