NIce repair! I worked in testing/debug at a large company, and we made products for 3rd party etc, and on the boards we were building were numerous BGA (Ball Grid Array-for others) . I don't know how many of the damn things would fail just for that reason, a 'Ball' wasnt in contact, then tap it and boom it worked. We would xray them and you could see what was in contact and what wasn't. LIke you said, it is a horrible way to connect a chip. There is no easy way for an average diy'er to reflow them without experience, thermal shock etc would be a big factor. I like my leads sticking out and I can reflow'em nice and easy. And that heat compound melting!? Disgusting fabrication.
+Scott x I agree it is the worst design I have come across. BGA chips was one of many reasons I left the electronics repair industry. When I do a BGA reheat like I did here it is usually on something I own because you really can't guarantee that it is going to last. I may do it for a friend and charge them very little, like on this one, it was a co-worker, and he understands fully that it may last, but then again it may fail. I have had success and failures doing this. More success than failures, but it is a horrible design. As I explained to the owner of this set, he could change the TCON board, but good luck finding a new piece today. All the ones floating around for 20-25 bucks are pulls from other sets, and many of them are repaired in the same fashion, and have about as long a guarantee. The first time I saw a BGA chip back in the late 90's I said to a co-worker at the time, how the hell do they expect this to work. First time I saw them was in digital cameras. We used to think SMD was also bad, but SMD are actually very reliable compared to BGA.
im an idiot, i reflow my main ic chip but realise the heat gun was spreading heat all over the board when i got the monitor to switch on not thinking that i should isolate the chips with a piece of cardboard first and see which one is giving trouble or working when heated with air. Busy reflowing the chip with a 50w gu10 halogen, will try for an hour, its a small chip so dont think it needs more, placed a bit of that white smudgy flux around the edges of the chip, hope that flux isnt too bad to use as i see people using the liquid flux, this video on the other hand was incredibly informative and the part where you heated the board while its on got me thinking in the right place, thank you 12volt !!!
He didnt use cardboard he used some kind of adhesive backed metal foil, and I wouldnt worry about the other componants that much if you ever watched a solder wave machine flow a bath of molton solder over the whole board, as it smokes and burns
I have a Samsung 52" that I got for free with a similar problem, Ill try a reflow. Thanks for uploading all your vids. Looks like I might be getting a few "broken" tvs that Ill try to repair. Thumbs up
I have to say I didn't realise that reflowing was potentially as simple as this... definitely worth trying even if the board only lasts 6 months. Problem with stuff like this is that you don't know if the replacement boards on eBay haven't been quickly touched up like this to sell on quickly. That's certainly been the case with the old Xbox360 reflowed boards/machines.
+Jason james Yes that was common. People would do it quick, and sell it to an unsuspecting person. I do this on my own equipment, and in this case it is a co-worker and he is fully aware that it could potentially fail again, and the only way to guarantee that it won't fail again is to buy a new board.The DELL computer I fixed this way, is mine. I won't be selling it and I will be using it to see how long it runs. I am actually using it now to write this reply, as it has a bigger screen than my replacement laptop.
Greetings from Toronto, Ontario. Your videos are very informative, keep them coming! Any chance you will make a video regarding CRT Rear-Projection style tv's? They are a bit bulky and outdated but my Sony KP-46WT520 has been running strong for over 10 years. I would like to know how they work!
i was given this same exact POS tv. changed the power supply and weeks later the 4 inverters failed. after i changed those the Tconn started flashing on/off. after i changed the Tconn it was fine for a few weeks until the backlights started burning out....OFF TO THE DUMP AFTER THAT!!!
That board isnt actually the t-con per say.. that is the FRC ( frame rate converter ) board. That set likely has 120 HZ processing... the board underneath it is the t-con...
+12voltvids I'm new to your channel and have been watching many of you postings....compliments to you for the contents and it's all interesting stuff. I noted what you said ref. watching the adverts all the way through (Dave Jones mentioned this recently too)....if it's worth your while making these videos then you'll keep making them....which is what we all want, of course :) every time I read of people 'gobbing off' because someone uses a hot air gun instead of a reflow station, it peeves me off. obviously a reflow station is the better option if it's justifiable to invest in one. I personally do not have that sort of money 'lying around' and make do with what I have. the main thing is that the job gets done and there is a quality result.....keeps the repair price down and people happy (that's what matters in the end). I repair devices out of a passion for tinkering (and the challenge), if a few pennies fall my way that's a bonus, but the smile on a 'customers' face is priceless. keep up the sterling work, mate and wave a 'two fingered salute' at the trolls ;) Ted
Golly, learned some more good stuff. That hole that your coworker made, it doesn't effect anything does it? Can it be patched or screen cover be changed?
Hi my neighbor just threw out a LC-32LE653U TV. It works for about 10 minutes, then gets cloudy and lots of vertical lines. Will a new t-con board fix the issue? or could it be the power supply board?
a good way of troubleshooting i recommend to you is to apply pressure with your finger in bga (t-con) processor and ram chips to find out which one has the problem. then go with the reflow. it saves you lots of time.
+nikos biology tsiouplis Did that, no effect. Tried pressing on the chips, and tapping lightly. Didn't make any difference. I had it isolated down to the TCON or main board relatively quickly, because when I tapped either of them the picture would flash. To the heat gin came out, and the first one I warmed up was the TCON, and bingo, good picture, so I knew where to go.First tried reordering the LVDS coneector still bad. Then the BGA chips. The first attempt I did all the chips, and it ran for a couple of minutes and acted up again, so I did the big one a second time, and that time got enough heat to reflow the solder. And yes I did pour in some flux. Didn't show it on camera as the shot wasn't any good as I stood the board on end, and put flux in on all 4 sides and let gravity assist in getting it under the chip.
BGA & lead free solder, a match made in hell =D Great job! Sometimes worth getting some rosin flux squeezed under there if you can - it's hard to get it right under the chip, and It makes a tonne of fumes when heating with hot air but can help with the life of the repair. I am sure that manufacturers continue to use BGA because it shortens the life of the appliances. If they swapped the connection type back to PGA I am sure these things would run forever. Maybe their other reason for BGA use is the track layout and ease of manufacture.
+GadgetUK164 Of course I did that. I just didn't show it on camera because "my hand was blocking the shot" as some have been critical of. I cut that shot, and the first attempt to heat the chip up, because the first time I didn't get it hot enough.If you look at 14:15 you can see the flux, and you can see it bubbling out from under the other BGA chips, which I also reflowed but did not include as they were not the root cause.People might not get it, or perhaps they want to send me a message that they don't want to see any more videos, but every time I get a thumbs down on a video it affects my stats, and how advertisers perceive the videos, and that affects my revenues stream. So for every thumbs down that someone gives, it drops the revenue for the video, which in turn pisses me off, and gives me another reason NOT to continue this. I fix way more TVs and electronics that I post. For example, and I have talked about it on a few other videos including this one, the Samsung on my bench under test. The video is in the can, but I haven't edited it yet, and I may never post it, because it was a real bitch to figure this one out, and now I know the symptom, and the root cause, so why should I share the fix if all people are going to do is give me a thumbs down because I didn't use the gauge of solder they like, or I used a heat gun, or halogen lamp to reflow solder instead of a proper rework station.Many other well respected youtube producers have already thrown in the towel for the very same reason. A single thumbs down doesn't seem like much, but in the world of stats it means everything.For example where I work, the company does customer surveys about the work performed. On the 1-5 scale where 1 is poor and 5 is excellent, the only number that matters is 5. The rest are a fail, and ratings of 1-4 means a call to the bosses office.
+GadgetUK164 Older sets used to have fans. The 32" LCD BENQ that hangs in my shop as my camera monitor has 2 fans in it. You can hear them running, and that is the reason they dropped them. Nobody likes to hear a fan running when watching TV in a quiet room. That was the reason I relocated my amplifier and PVR to the closet, because the sound of the cooling fan in my amp cycling on and off and the sound of the hard drive running drove me crazy.
Yeah, fans aren't for everyone! I would rather have a quiet fan and extend its life, but fans can be annoying. I already suffer from the fan and HDD noise in my Sky sat box anyway so it really wouldn't make much difference for me.
+12voltvids Yeah, a lot of youtubers show frustration at the idiot commentors/trolls that seem to be everywhere. I thought your channel was relatively spared from this plague though! Do please know, that many people do really appreciate your content and the time you're putting into it, but ofcourse we realize that this is not your job and you should be having fun and a gratifiying feeling doing it! Please try to ignore the asshats :) Kind regards from Belgium. (your videos have already saved two plasma's, an LCD and a Fisher amplifier from the scrapheap over here!)
Hi!, I have one quick question, I have a 32" LEDTV and it doesn't turn on, there's a standby light (red) but it's not turning on. I already replaced the capacitor and still the same. but every time I plug it in to our wall outlet it's giving me a sound coming from the psu, what might be the cause? Thank you :D
had a Samsung Plasma years ago...550 watts!!....did away w/ the fireplace plus I solved the monthly electric budget quagmire by selling the cloth's dryer and hung a line parallel across the top of the Samsung ...Paltry dilemma solved!! lolz
Well done sir, smashing recovery :-D Ive had a go at trying to get a laptop gpu chip to work again, no picture syndrome. I did much like you did, but i did put a tiny twist of solder on top of the chip so i had a rough idea when the chip was hot enough. It did work afterwards, but wasnt very reliable when the pcb was flexed slightly, i did try again but it just didnt want to work. As i havnt got all the solder masks and special supplies, i gave up. Bga is such a bad idea, whenever i service a laptop, i make sure the heatsinks are really clean and well thermally connected to the chips, i want the chips as cold as possible. Im no lover of using solder to glue a chip to the surface, im just a stick in the mud :-(
+zx8401ztv BGA is a horrible design. I remember when it first appeared in DV camcorders and we all thought the same thing holy f--k that is going to be a problem.I have a laptop with a bad gpu that I might try to get going this way too. I know it is bad solder as it initially did boot a few times, and then nope.The problem with putting a bit of solder on top as a reference is, well you will know you have melted it all right, but the air off the heat gun is going to be much hotter on the surface than on the bottom, You need to get the heat right through the board. Of course the proper way to do this is to put the board on a hot plate and slowly bring the entire board up to almost the melting point of solder. you don't want to get it to the point of molten solder because all the parts on the bottom side of the board will fall off, but close to the melting temperature. Then using an infra red heater, halogen lamp with a focused beam that heats just the area of the BGA chip, heat the chip up to being that solder up to the melting point to reflow it. Then without moving the board shut off the hot plate and let it cool. That's the proper way. Of course if you are replacing a BGA you need this set up to do it right, and when while the light source is making the chip molten you lift the ship away using a tool with a suction cup on the end.I know a guy that works in forensic data recovery operation. Has all the cool tools for removing chips, and reading data out of TSOP and other types of memory used in phones, tablets computers, HDD ect.I remember him telling me once, never send an email or text that you wouldn't want your mother to read, because even if you think you have covered your tracks, unless you grind that phone up into tiny pieces, information that could have been sent or received even years earlier could be retrievable. Perhaps not all of it, but there will be fragments that haven't been overwritten.
+12voltvids Yes i know your right about the solder reference, it was just a crude way to gauge the heat. The lamp does sound much better, i was thinking about heating from the underside but i could just imagine the parts dropping off, so i heated from the top, my mistake i suppose, but its all learning :-D. I hope you get the better of that gpu, fingers,toes, and legs crossed LOL :-D Oh by the way, i did fix that 750watt pc supply with panasonic caps from r.s, works smashing now, ive used panasonic low esr 105deg ones before :-) The original caps were (wait for this) CapXon, yuck yuck :-(
+12voltvids Rly reflow a bga whit a heatgun is bad bad way for fix, get a bga station like Zhuomao ZM-R5860C for the the proper fix i got achi 6000 works ok but no happy whit it an the reflow profiles,was apin in the ass made they works if i have to get a new ones i will get these.
Hi dear I would like to see how fixe a Phillips 40pfl3607 on PSB problem no 5volts or 12v I changed the kit for both x5v n 24v & no turn on check switch on /off is ok only 1v from the psb please I need any help thanks guys
@@12voltvids Yes thank you I know that SME stands for Surface Mount electrolytic but I think of the chip typestandard capacitors. Is there a special reference to the surface mount "can"capacitors as Ive never seen them on Ebay or any electronic supply houses? I just discovered that most of those capacitors on my control board have rediculously high ESR!
I would say that those smd aluminum capacitors on the tcon boards are guilty and prone to failure from the first moment of soldering in the production line in the factory and needs to measure esr and then replace them.
Yo 12volts, Hope allz well up in the GWN, you ever run across this kind of issue w/ a Sharp Sharp LC 65Q7300U The Video display went on vacation (get a nice diffused, & even white backlight to go along with the audio when powering on) the LED backlights and audio are 100%, all voltages of everything from PS board are within, anyone out here ever deal w/ this scenario, I'm leery of buying the main video board because I've run across this twice w/ Vizio's, bought the video boards... still no display and out 100$ or so both. I'm guessing main board because what else is there...the display go bad???... I've never had one here with a bad display, even a crappy solder dip or the TV falling over cuz baby huey yanked on the cable (its happened to me few times) would show something on it on somewhere right?? The T-con does have 12volts on it, but that's the only test I'm able to do on timing control boards, re-seated all video related ribbon connectors Any & All Suggestions & Donations are happily accepted.... LOLZ, (just joking about donations)
PS: ...and forgot to mention this had one of your favorite gripes, usually associated w/ the mexican assembled Samsung's... Very loose board mounting screws, saw no smoked metal, and replaced, but no effect
If you have ever seen a solder wave machine work you would be amszed at the tolerance of those componants, submerged in a bath of molton solder for several minutes, they smoke and actually catch fire sometimes, but seemably are uneffected!
This kind of fixes maybe last you 2 years the most out hot climates states or countries.Did this kind of fixes for many PC boards reflowing surface mounted for Laptops as you said Xbox 360 also PS3 systems sometime.
+Chi Chu if it lasts 2 years then the owner is happy. If it lasts 1 year he will be happy. Considering that modern electronics are shit. Most of the stuff I repair is vintage audio an vcr and plasma. I don't like Lcd. To repair or watch.
Seems like a problem across all the Sharp Aquos range. I have one which came to me full of water !! .. The first few days it was doing the same thing just not as bad. After sorting out the intermittent starting (I guess why it was thrown out.. hence the water) it cleared up over a few days and now it's perfect. It's just the bedroom tv so I didn't think it bad enough to investigate further straight off.. mainly because it had been left outside for who knows how long.
+geoepi321975 To test a battery you need to put a resistor across the terminals while you measure the voltage. It all depends on how much current you want to draw during said test. Using ohms law to draw 250mA from a 1.5V battery the resistor would be a 6 ohm resistor. For 1.2v rechargeable for the same current that would be a 4.8 ohm. For 500 mA a 3 ohm, and 2.4 respectively.Of course you can measure under no load.A good 1.5v battery will measure well above 1.5v. 1.6 1.7 ect. If you measure a 1.5v battery with no load, and it only measures 1.3 or 1.4 it is toast.
+costellom5 The one I put in was probably thicker than the original. The spares I have came out of a plasma that had a broken screen. They use them between the back side of the board and the metal back to draw the heat away from the pins of the MOSFETs to keep the solder connections from developing heat stress fractures. The 51" I fixed didn't have that, and heat fractures is probably what caused the buffer board to blow in the first place, so when I reassembled it, I placed a few strips of the silicon gel heat sink under the board to prevent it from happening again as that one is my set now.
It lasted for what 8 years. If it lasts for a few more years the TV will be ready for the bin. The "stuff" I put on was much thicker than the original, so it should be good as long or longer than the original, and by the time it fails again the TV will be ready for the bin anyway.
Men your repair/troubleshooting skills are amazing.....thanks for sharing..👍🏻👍🏻
NIce repair! I worked in testing/debug at a large company, and we made products for 3rd party etc, and on the boards we were building were numerous BGA (Ball Grid Array-for others) . I don't know how many of the damn things would fail just for that reason, a 'Ball' wasnt in contact, then tap it and boom it worked. We would xray them and you could see what was in contact and what wasn't. LIke you said, it is a horrible way to connect a chip. There is no easy way for an average diy'er to reflow them without experience, thermal shock etc would be a big factor. I like my leads sticking out and I can reflow'em nice and easy. And that heat compound melting!? Disgusting fabrication.
+Scott x I agree it is the worst design I have come across. BGA chips was one of many reasons I left the electronics repair industry. When I do a BGA reheat like I did here it is usually on something I own because you really can't guarantee that it is going to last. I may do it for a friend and charge them very little, like on this one, it was a co-worker, and he understands fully that it may last, but then again it may fail. I have had success and failures doing this. More success than failures, but it is a horrible design. As I explained to the owner of this set, he could change the TCON board, but good luck finding a new piece today. All the ones floating around for 20-25 bucks are pulls from other sets, and many of them are repaired in the same fashion, and have about as long a guarantee. The first time I saw a BGA chip back in the late 90's I said to a co-worker at the time, how the hell do they expect this to work. First time I saw them was in digital cameras. We used to think SMD was also bad, but SMD are actually very reliable compared to BGA.
im an idiot, i reflow my main ic chip but realise the heat gun was spreading heat all over the board when i got the monitor to switch on not thinking that i should isolate the chips with a piece of cardboard first and see which one is giving trouble or working when heated with air. Busy reflowing the chip with a 50w gu10 halogen, will try for an hour, its a small chip so dont think it needs more, placed a bit of that white smudgy flux around the edges of the chip, hope that flux isnt too bad to use as i see people using the liquid flux, this video on the other hand was incredibly informative and the part where you heated the board while its on got me thinking in the right place, thank you 12volt !!!
He didnt use cardboard he used some kind of adhesive backed metal foil, and I wouldnt worry about the other componants that much if you ever watched a solder wave machine flow a bath of molton solder over the whole board, as it smokes and burns
I have a Samsung 52" that I got for free with a similar problem, Ill try a reflow. Thanks for uploading all your vids. Looks like I might be getting a few "broken" tvs that Ill try to repair. Thumbs up
Love the cat meowing in the background at the start.
I have to say I didn't realise that reflowing was potentially as simple as this... definitely worth trying even if the board only lasts 6 months.
Problem with stuff like this is that you don't know if the replacement boards on eBay haven't been quickly touched up like this to sell on quickly. That's certainly been the case with the old Xbox360 reflowed boards/machines.
+Jason james Yes that was common. People would do it quick, and sell it to an unsuspecting person. I do this on my own equipment, and in this case it is a co-worker and he is fully aware that it could potentially fail again, and the only way to guarantee that it won't fail again is to buy a new board.The DELL computer I fixed this way, is mine. I won't be selling it and I will be using it to see how long it runs. I am actually using it now to write this reply, as it has a bigger screen than my replacement laptop.
yes I am excited to try that with some now dead computer video graphics cards I first heard of this method on
Greetings from Toronto, Ontario. Your videos are very informative, keep them coming! Any chance you will make a video regarding CRT Rear-Projection style tv's? They are a bit bulky and outdated but my Sony KP-46WT520 has been running strong for over 10 years. I would like to know how they work!
i was given this same exact POS tv. changed the power supply and weeks later the 4 inverters failed. after i changed those the Tconn started flashing on/off. after i changed the Tconn it was fine for a few weeks until the backlights started burning out....OFF TO THE DUMP AFTER THAT!!!
That board isnt actually the t-con per say.. that is the FRC ( frame rate converter ) board. That set likely has 120 HZ processing... the board underneath it is the t-con...
+12voltvids I'm new to your channel and have been watching many of you postings....compliments to you for the contents and it's all interesting stuff. I noted what you said ref. watching the adverts all the way through (Dave Jones mentioned this recently too)....if it's worth your while making these videos then you'll keep making them....which is what we all want, of course :)
every time I read of people 'gobbing off' because someone uses a hot air gun instead of a reflow station, it peeves me off. obviously a reflow station is the better option if it's justifiable to invest in one. I personally do not have that sort of money 'lying around' and make do with what I have. the main thing is that the job gets done and there is a quality result.....keeps the repair price down and people happy (that's what matters in the end). I repair devices out of a passion for tinkering (and the challenge), if a few pennies fall my way that's a bonus, but the smile on a 'customers' face is priceless.
keep up the sterling work, mate and wave a 'two fingered salute' at the trolls ;)
Ted
Golly, learned some more good stuff. That hole that your coworker made, it doesn't effect anything does it? Can it be patched or screen cover be changed?
Hi my neighbor just threw out a LC-32LE653U TV. It works for about 10 minutes, then gets cloudy and lots of vertical lines.
Will a new t-con board fix the issue? or could it be the power supply board?
a good way of troubleshooting i recommend to you is to apply pressure with your finger in bga (t-con) processor and ram chips to find out which one has the problem. then go with the reflow. it saves you lots of time.
+nikos biology tsiouplis Did that, no effect. Tried pressing on the chips, and tapping lightly. Didn't make any difference. I had it isolated down to the TCON or main board relatively quickly, because when I tapped either of them the picture would flash. To the heat gin came out, and the first one I warmed up was the TCON, and bingo, good picture, so I knew where to go.First tried reordering the LVDS coneector still bad. Then the BGA chips. The first attempt I did all the chips, and it ran for a couple of minutes and acted up again, so I did the big one a second time, and that time got enough heat to reflow the solder. And yes I did pour in some flux. Didn't show it on camera as the shot wasn't any good as I stood the board on end, and put flux in on all 4 sides and let gravity assist in getting it under the chip.
Use copper shims for the heat shrink!! just suggestion
BGA & lead free solder, a match made in hell =D Great job! Sometimes worth getting some rosin flux squeezed under there if you can - it's hard to get it right under the chip, and It makes a tonne of fumes when heating with hot air but can help with the life of the repair. I am sure that manufacturers continue to use BGA because it shortens the life of the appliances. If they swapped the connection type back to PGA I am sure these things would run forever. Maybe their other reason for BGA use is the track layout and ease of manufacture.
+GadgetUK164 If that was my own personal set I would be tempted to mod it and add a fan to that board too.
+GadgetUK164 Of course I did that. I just didn't show it on camera because "my hand was blocking the shot" as some have been critical of. I cut that shot, and the first attempt to heat the chip up, because the first time I didn't get it hot enough.If you look at 14:15 you can see the flux, and you can see it bubbling out from under the other BGA chips, which I also reflowed but did not include as they were not the root cause.People might not get it, or perhaps they want to send me a message that they don't want to see any more videos, but every time I get a thumbs down on a video it affects my stats, and how advertisers perceive the videos, and that affects my revenues stream. So for every thumbs down that someone gives, it drops the revenue for the video, which in turn pisses me off, and gives me another reason NOT to continue this. I fix way more TVs and electronics that I post. For example, and I have talked about it on a few other videos including this one, the Samsung on my bench under test. The video is in the can, but I haven't edited it yet, and I may never post it, because it was a real bitch to figure this one out, and now I know the symptom, and the root cause, so why should I share the fix if all people are going to do is give me a thumbs down because I didn't use the gauge of solder they like, or I used a heat gun, or halogen lamp to reflow solder instead of a proper rework station.Many other well respected youtube producers have already thrown in the towel for the very same reason. A single thumbs down doesn't seem like much, but in the world of stats it means everything.For example where I work, the company does customer surveys about the work performed. On the 1-5 scale where 1 is poor and 5 is excellent, the only number that matters is 5. The rest are a fail, and ratings of 1-4 means a call to the bosses office.
+GadgetUK164 Older sets used to have fans. The 32" LCD BENQ that hangs in my shop as my camera monitor has 2 fans in it. You can hear them running, and that is the reason they dropped them. Nobody likes to hear a fan running when watching TV in a quiet room. That was the reason I relocated my amplifier and PVR to the closet, because the sound of the cooling fan in my amp cycling on and off and the sound of the hard drive running drove me crazy.
Yeah, fans aren't for everyone! I would rather have a quiet fan and extend its life, but fans can be annoying. I already suffer from the fan and HDD noise in my Sky sat box anyway so it really wouldn't make much difference for me.
+12voltvids
Yeah, a lot of youtubers show frustration at the idiot commentors/trolls that seem to be everywhere. I thought your channel was relatively spared from this plague though!
Do please know, that many people do really appreciate your content and the time you're putting into it, but ofcourse we realize that this is not your job and you should be having fun and a gratifiying feeling doing it!
Please try to ignore the asshats :)
Kind regards from Belgium. (your videos have already saved two plasma's, an LCD and a Fisher amplifier from the scrapheap over here!)
Hi!, I have one quick question, I have a 32" LEDTV and it doesn't turn on, there's a standby light (red) but it's not turning on. I already replaced the capacitor and still the same. but every time I plug it in to our wall outlet it's giving me a sound coming from the psu, what might be the cause? Thank you :D
Great repair, you sure know your stuff!
These things are much to complex for me...LOL
Ha, I've seen tube sets with lower power consumption than that thing (and were easier to service, to boot)! :)
had a Samsung Plasma years ago...550 watts!!....did away w/ the fireplace plus I solved the monthly electric budget quagmire by selling the cloth's dryer and hung a line parallel across the top of the Samsung ...Paltry dilemma solved!!
lolz
Well done sir, smashing recovery :-D
Ive had a go at trying to get a laptop gpu chip to work again, no picture syndrome.
I did much like you did, but i did put a tiny twist of solder on top of the chip so i had a rough idea when the chip was hot enough.
It did work afterwards, but wasnt very reliable when the pcb was flexed slightly, i did try again but it just didnt want to work.
As i havnt got all the solder masks and special supplies, i gave up.
Bga is such a bad idea, whenever i service a laptop, i make sure the heatsinks are really clean and well thermally connected to the chips, i want the chips as cold as possible.
Im no lover of using solder to glue a chip to the surface, im just a stick in the mud :-(
+zx8401ztv BGA is a horrible design. I remember when it first appeared in DV camcorders and we all thought the same thing holy f--k that is going to be a problem.I have a laptop with a bad gpu that I might try to get going this way too. I know it is bad solder as it initially did boot a few times, and then nope.The problem with putting a bit of solder on top as a reference is, well you will know you have melted it all right, but the air off the heat gun is going to be much hotter on the surface than on the bottom, You need to get the heat right through the board. Of course the proper way to do this is to put the board on a hot plate and slowly bring the entire board up to almost the melting point of solder. you don't want to get it to the point of molten solder because all the parts on the bottom side of the board will fall off, but close to the melting temperature. Then using an infra red heater, halogen lamp with a focused beam that heats just the area of the BGA chip, heat the chip up to being that solder up to the melting point to reflow it. Then without moving the board shut off the hot plate and let it cool. That's the proper way. Of course if you are replacing a BGA you need this set up to do it right, and when while the light source is making the chip molten you lift the ship away using a tool with a suction cup on the end.I know a guy that works in forensic data recovery operation. Has all the cool tools for removing chips, and reading data out of TSOP and other types of memory used in phones, tablets computers, HDD ect.I remember him telling me once, never send an email or text that you wouldn't want your mother to read, because even if you think you have covered your tracks, unless you grind that phone up into tiny pieces, information that could have been sent or received even years earlier could be retrievable. Perhaps not all of it, but there will be fragments that haven't been overwritten.
+12voltvids
Yes i know your right about the solder reference, it was just a crude way to gauge the heat.
The lamp does sound much better, i was thinking about heating from the underside but i could just imagine the parts dropping off, so i heated from the top, my mistake i suppose, but its all learning :-D.
I hope you get the better of that gpu, fingers,toes, and legs crossed LOL :-D
Oh by the way, i did fix that 750watt pc supply with panasonic caps from r.s, works smashing now, ive used panasonic low esr 105deg ones before :-)
The original caps were (wait for this) CapXon, yuck yuck :-(
+zx8401ztv CapXon CapXoff, the Caper!Sorry just couldn't resist. The GPU fix took all of 5 minutes film shortly.
That chip was breaking its balls man!
This is the Follow up repair to that LCD that you said you had to do multiple repairs to? you have so much in for repair , its hard to keep Track.
+Amy Marie No this one just came in from one of my co-workers yesterday.
+12voltvids Rly reflow a bga whit a heatgun is bad bad way for fix, get a bga station like Zhuomao ZM-R5860C for the the proper fix i got achi 6000 works ok but no happy whit it an the reflow profiles,was apin in the ass made they works if i have to get a new ones i will get these.
Hi dear I would like to see how fixe a Phillips 40pfl3607 on PSB problem no 5volts or 12v I changed the kit for both x5v n 24v & no turn on check switch on /off is ok only 1v from the psb please I need any help thanks guys
The question is :
How many time still running???
I think I need to buy some of those surface mount "can" capacitors what do you call them exactly, so I can order them?
Surface mount electrolytic capacitors or SME for short.
@@12voltvids Yes thank you I know that SME stands for Surface Mount electrolytic but I think of the chip typestandard capacitors. Is there a special reference to the surface mount "can"capacitors as Ive never seen them on Ebay or any electronic supply houses? I just discovered that most of those capacitors on my control board have rediculously high ESR!
I would say that those smd aluminum capacitors on the tcon boards are guilty and prone to failure from the first moment of soldering in the production line in the factory and needs to measure esr and then replace them.
My sharp led TV is jumping
The picture and the lights is jumping. How can I fixed it?
Yo 12volts, Hope allz well up in the GWN, you ever run across this kind of issue w/ a Sharp
Sharp LC 65Q7300U
The Video display went on vacation (get a nice diffused, & even white backlight to go along with the audio when powering on) the LED backlights and audio are 100%, all voltages of everything from PS board are within, anyone out here ever deal w/ this scenario, I'm leery of buying the main video board because I've run across this twice w/ Vizio's, bought the video boards... still no display and out 100$ or so both.
I'm guessing main board because what else is there...the display go bad???...
I've never had one here with a bad display, even a crappy solder dip or the TV falling over cuz baby huey yanked on the cable (its happened to me few times) would show something on it on somewhere right??
The T-con does have 12volts on it, but that's the only test I'm able to do on timing control boards, re-seated all video related ribbon connectors
Any & All Suggestions & Donations are happily accepted....
LOLZ, (just joking about donations)
PS: ...and forgot to mention this had one of your favorite gripes, usually associated w/ the mexican assembled Samsung's... Very loose board mounting screws, saw no smoked metal, and replaced, but no effect
my sharp lcd mod no 32l03 problem is sound ok but image is right to left help me
Black and decker hot gun model please :)
How much heat will these chips take ?........
If you have ever seen a solder wave machine work you would be amszed at the tolerance of those componants, submerged in a bath of molton solder for several minutes, they smoke and actually catch fire sometimes, but seemably are uneffected!
leaky capacitor on a 2010's electronic......kinda reminds me of the camcorder's problems from the 90s
This kind of fixes maybe last you 2 years the most out hot climates states or countries.Did this kind of fixes for many PC boards reflowing surface mounted for Laptops as you said Xbox 360 also PS3 systems sometime.
+Chi Chu if it lasts 2 years then the owner is happy. If it lasts 1 year he will be happy. Considering that modern electronics are shit. Most of the stuff I repair is vintage audio an vcr and plasma. I don't like Lcd. To repair or watch.
Seems like a problem across all the Sharp Aquos range. I have one which came to me full of water !! .. The first few days it was doing the same thing just not as bad. After sorting out the intermittent starting (I guess why it was thrown out.. hence the water) it cleared up over a few days and now it's perfect. It's just the bedroom tv so I didn't think it bad enough to investigate further straight off.. mainly because it had been left outside for who knows how long.
12volt how can i load test AAA 1,5 volt battery can you tell me ?
+geoepi321975 So what is it you are trying to do?
+12voltvids I want test litle batterys if they are good not with a multimeter but to load test them or 1.2 volt rechargeables to see if they are good
+geoepi321975 To test a battery you need to put a resistor across the terminals while you measure the voltage. It all depends on how much current you want to draw during said test. Using ohms law to draw 250mA from a 1.5V battery the resistor would be a 6 ohm resistor. For 1.2v rechargeable for the same current that would be a 4.8 ohm. For 500 mA a 3 ohm, and 2.4 respectively.Of course you can measure under no load.A good 1.5v battery will measure well above 1.5v. 1.6 1.7 ect. If you measure a 1.5v battery with no load, and it only measures 1.3 or 1.4 it is toast.
Thank you very much
I find it strange that they used that thick silicon pad.They could have done a better job.
+costellom5 The one I put in was probably thicker than the original. The spares I have came out of a plasma that had a broken screen. They use them between the back side of the board and the metal back to draw the heat away from the pins of the MOSFETs to keep the solder connections from developing heat stress fractures. The 51" I fixed didn't have that, and heat fractures is probably what caused the buffer board to blow in the first place, so when I reassembled it, I placed a few strips of the silicon gel heat sink under the board to prevent it from happening again as that one is my set now.
HEY its built in obsolescence they have to find some way to make it fail sooner so they can sell more tv's! lol
12voltvids and norcal best video
i enjoyed this. thumbs up. :)
why would you use the same stuff that causes the problem in the first place? #brainshattering!
It lasted for what 8 years. If it lasts for a few more years the TV will be ready for the bin. The "stuff" I put on was much thicker than the original, so it should be good as long or longer than the original, and by the time it fails again the TV will be ready for the bin anyway.
i see.. nice channel, anyway.. i'm subscribed to these kinds of electronic repair videos.. :)
Dude, NICE WORK!
good job sir i have i idea again thanks the video
Smart repair!
5 mints ok start the lift right and black line
Good Job
6 months, maybe 12months
2 years then backlights failed and set scrapped.
@@12voltvids nice