Love your style of teaching; particularly the way you 'review/go over' things at the end. I think you're the only guy that actually does that! Thanks for sharing...very well done!
As a very old tv engineer myself I did my time as an apprentice 1960 and still going stoing.I am pleased to see you told youngsters to discharge to main capacitor.
I'm still learning and I know I'm going to have to watch this video again. There's a lot of good information here. Thanks for going over your troubleshooting procedure at the end. Regards, Tom
THOMMGB This was a good one, a power supply damaged by a power surge.This is the type of damage experienced by lightning strikes. A word of warning, buy only original parts from Sony. They are pricey, but the market is flooded with cheap knock off parts that will blow up in your face.I got stung repeatedly when I was in the biz because the shop owner wanted to maximize profits, and wanted the 3.00 parts from aftermarket sellers rather than the high priced originals. The counterfeiters are very good and the knock off parts will look identical. Not until you grind away the case material and reveal the semiconductor chip do you see the difference. This is why I resorted to pulling good parts from another Sony TV board. This set was for a paying customer, and I do not need to have a boomerang due to cheap parts. The parts I used were rated higher than the originals, so they won't fail again.
Thank you for making this video. Between this information and the troubleshooting flowcharts in the Sanyo Service Manual, I was able to fix my Sanyo FVM4012 TV by replacing the power supply board. For future reference, my symptoms were: -RED power LED on whenever AC cord was plugged in -No backlights, no image, no sound -3.3V Standby was present on both the Power Board and Main Board -No 24V present on the Power or Main Boards -No 58V on Power Board I don't know which component(s) failed, I just replaced the entire board.
Always nice to watch your videos, thanks for explaining things in a good way so people who has not really been working with that set (or that type of unit) can have an easier way of understanding things. And i know people bash you from time to time let the haters hate lol you know, you beat them in every single way. Last thing i repaired was a faulty powersupply of a samsung 32" lcd tv that probably had a powersurge on the mains rectifier bridge toast and the ptc did do its job i say both driving transistors to thebacklight did short circuit too but they are replaced and now a working set.
Yes, my Sony KDL 32EX 710 also has a fantastic picture also. After 8 years I am still impressed with the picture quality and the colors. My tv is newer than this one and only 0.5 inch thick.
Sony TV's have overall better picture reproduction than other brands, we have a KDL40 from 2013 Led LCD and I'm impressed by the color reproduction and the black level (it has 3 stages of black leveling) it's pretty darn good for a LCD. I also have a Samsung Plasma 42 inch from 2007 bought it used for 50EUR (aprox. 55USD) and it's still rockin' 💪 now I'm going to repair a Samsung Plasma PS51F5570 (in the US known as PN51F5570 and PN51F5500) that I've bought for 30EUR (aprox. 33USD)! Y sus is faulty it has a blown TPC8407 IC, Q5005, 2 shorted transistors and maybe some other components... so I bought a whole board instead and now I'm waiting it because it's not shipped yet. I only hope that the panel doesn't have any vertical lines because those are a really pain in the ass to repair, if it's only a bad COF bonding on the ribbon cable than I'm lucky :-)
I think my parents have the same Sony TV. Either this model or one very similar to this. It's a great TV, nice picture as you've said. An interesting thing is they have two brightness modes for the LCD backlight. If the picture is very dim or mostly black they dim the backlight to make the black look more black. That's of course the disadvantage of LCD technology, black is never 100% black. That's what OLED technology will fix. From what I heard Sony is one of the leading companies in OLED technology. Maybe that will enable them to make a comeback as the company with the best TVs like they were back in the Trinitron days...
DrCassette Most LCD sets use backlight dimming these days to try to improve black levels.OLED is superior technology. My camera uses that for the viewfinder, so what I see is exactly what the sensor sees. Lets see if they can get large oled technology screens that are affordable as the current ones certainly are not.
+service1956 That is true today, and I have done that too. I changed the buffer board on a Samsung plasma that was given to me because the entire board cost 15.00. I also did have to repair the cold solder on the y sustain that was the root cause for the buffer board blowing in the first place.
Watched some of your videos and I must say I'm really impressed with your knowledge..Just Subscribed to learn a few things on my new hobby lol... Thank you for sharing...
Thanks for the informative video. At 0:30 where you are showing the model number, voltages, serial number, etc it shows the voltage as 110v- 240 v 50/60 hz at the top left. however at the bottom right enclosed within a box with UL, FCC symbols, it reads only 120v 60 hz - just wondering why - is this TV and power supply capable of handling 220 v ac 50 hz ? and if so why do they list both a voltage range of 120-240 as well as 120 on the same label thanks
Hello, excellent video. I have a KDL-32BX321, the card is the same, but with the multimeter at terminal 3 (power on), when I connect the 127 vac power cord; 3.3 volts appear without pressing the power button. What items can i check?
Great job but did I see you using the top of that primary filter cap for a ground measuring DC? That's not a ground, either hot side of chassis or cold. You'll get a reading but it's due to capacitive coupling. Glad this worked out though!
+Mark Zacharias In many large capacitors the negative terminal is internally bonded to the can.This one is such a cap. Had it not been I wouldn't have got a stable reading, it would have been all over the map. and I would have been looking for the hot ground point. Out of a box of used caps I just checked more than half of them measure 0 ohms between the ground and case. These are all standard 85' caps. All the high temperature and high frequency caps are totally isolated.
+Mark Zacharias I just checked 2 scrap boards from Sony LCD sets. One was the board I pulled the transistors from. One board had continuity from the can to negative, and another similar board but with a different brand of caps did not. It all depends on the brand, and the manufacturing process they use. Not all multi sectional caps had a common ground. Many did but not all. This one did because I had already done the diagnosis off camera before I rolled. Had it not been grounded I would have used the negative side of the bridge rectifier as my hot ground reference. If you look at some of my other power supply service videos you will indeed see my hot ground reference to the negative terminal on the bridge. I only used the capacitor on this set because this cap was a ground reference.Try measuring the raw B+ on one of those with an isolated can, you won't see the 390V from the voltage doubler, you will be lucky if you see anything because your meter probe will effectively be connected to, well nothing!
Thank you for making such videos. Sir I have a Toshiba lcd TV 32" .when we press the on button from the remote green LED is working and a flashline appears on the screen and blackout. I check the 12 & 24 v is coming when I press the on button and disappears. I replaced both optocouplers and filters but it doesn't make any difference. Sir pls advise me what could be the possible problem? Wtg for your valuable reply.thank you.
Speaking of Power Supply, I have my 2010 Vizio M260VA LED TV, when I was going to get it fixed where it tells me that the LED TV is dead, how do I identify the defective spare parts where I may need to replace one for the Motherboard?
Hi, very interesting video. And informative too. I am trying to replair my Sony KDL 32NX500. It has got the same APS252 board shown in this video. I dont get 3.3V at the standby pin. can you help with what needs to be checked first. Thank you
I knew a TV repair man once living in Chorley Pall mall TV repairs, Brian kitchen And Steve Taylor l think they may still be around somewhere our family moved away never saw Brian again.
Almost a distant memory seeing the old shop and work bench. Watched a few videos that I think it was shango did where he visited some old shops as they were closing out. Brought back memories for sure.
@@12voltvids I'm beginner in this carrier.. Trying to learn in TH-cam videos.I repaired chargers and inductive cooker .crt screens etc.. and now I'm trying to understand the mechanism of lcd and led screens..Making small workshop in my house. In future I will open Maintenance shop....
I have a Sony Bravia 40Ex400 and the led turns on to green from red, but then it blinks slowly or stay green but no sound, video or on screen display menu. Is it the main board or backlight inverter (still should have sound, right?)? Any advice would be highly appreciated it.
Hi, 1st thanks for this video. Have you worked on the power supply of the EX2m chassis? My power supply has no 3.3VDC standby voltage and all fuses are good. Where should I check for the source of the problem? thanks!
+the wonderland If you are missing your 3.3 it is one of a few things. Either the capacitors in the standby secondary have failed (high esr) or the oscillator is not working.Unfortunately I am not familiar with that model number, but all switching power supplies operate pretty much the same. I had never serviced the model in this video before I saw this one either, yet I was able to figure it out without a schematic relatively easy.
Non sérieux, j'ai vraiment un soucis avec cet télé, je ne trouve que le 3V du STBY3.3v, DE AC OFF DET. Le reste rien à par 3.3V à POWER ON lorsque j'appuie sur le bouton. STP PLEASE HELP ME
Hi 12v, I have this same model Sony set, totally dead after a storm. I replaced the PS board (with one that was supposed to work, but not guaranteed), and now I have 3.3v at Standby. But Tv still didn't work. So I then replaced the main board, but still nothing from the TV at all. So I suspect my replacement PS is bad. How did you get power to go into the "Power On" lead? Hit the power button, jump standby to ground, jump standby to "Power On", etc? Thank you, Scott.
More than likely. You need to check the individual voltages and see if all the supplies are operating. I TS down to component level on this one. It isn't my set, it is one that came in for repair, and went back to it's owner.
Thanks a lot 12v. I'll watch the video again, but I don't remember seeing how you got the main board to call for power. At about 4:30- 4:40 you say it's calling for power at "Power On", but I can't figure out how you did that. Nothing appears jumped in your video. I put the voltmeter at Power On and hit the power button, and got zero V. If I have correct standby power, would a good main board supply power back to the PS by merely hitting the power button?
I said the 3rd one up (from the bottom) is the power on. It toggles between 0 and 3.3 to turn the PSU on. That connects to the opto coupler, the middle one is what I am pointing at. There will be voltage across the LED COLD side (the top pins) which will be making the internal LED shine on the photo transistor which is on the HOT side of the power supply. WHen I refer to the HOT and COLD side I am referring to the hot ground side, or primary side of the PSU, and the COLD side is the cold, or isolated ground side, or secondary side.The job of the opto-coupler is to provide electrical isolation between the HOT AC side, and the isolated side of the chassis. If you get the voltage toggling on the power control opto isolator when you press the power button then the control board is working, and you have a PSU issue.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain it. I was advised to disconnect the main board, jump Standby to Power On (to remove the main board from the situation), then test the two "REG12V" pins for voltage. I got zero volts at both, which I assume indicates that the PS is bad. Sound definitive to you, or should I also recreate the test you describe/show? Thanks again.
Hi there, It great to share such info. I hope you can give me advise. I have a old Sony watchman Fdl 302. It power up with light and sound but no image. Is it possible to fix? Thanks
Can i use aps-252 instead of the aps-254 i see they have the same conector and everything but the board have some component missing compared to the model 254
I have a problem with KDL40EX500 TV, when I turn on the TV I Have the screen remains black, by the time a bright light appears on the TV and the red light flashes.
+Denis Horellou You need to count the flashes of the red light, That is an error code that you can look up, and it should guide you in the right direction. I have no idea what is wrong with it based on that description. Could be one of the fluorescent tubes failing, and drawing too much or too little current and causing the TV to go into shut down mode. This is the only set like this I have worked on so I can only comment on what work I have done on it, and you see it here in the video.
Hi 12voltvids Do you think its better to Fix at component level or replace the whole board? I know it's cheaper to buy at component level, but just curious Thanks for you're awesome videos I learned a lot from you 😇😄❤️️😇
Board replacement is easier for sure. If you have the skills to do component level, then go for it. The satisfaction of troubleshooting to the component level as opposed to being a board jockey is worth it. At least for me it is.
Only replace a board as a next step if component repair is either not economical or practical, and time is money (especially for customer items). In the old days of tube equipment, technicians who replaced a bad tube were often called "valve jockeys' (or "tube jockeys" depending where you lived). The number of call-outs to replace a white-capped vertical or horizontal output tube in a B&W TV was high back then.
That is how switch mode power supplies work. Around 50 kHz. The reason is efficiency. A small transformer as opposed to a large 60 Hz transformer. 95% efficiency vs 60-70 max.
the value looks different on the original Mosdfet 2SK4096 vs 2SK3568 the replacement part won't higher current rating cause other parts to fail is.the current is. it correct
No not at all. That is the maximum ration the part can handle. Just because the part can handle more voltage or current doesn't mean the device will draw more. The device will draw what it is designed to, which would have been below what the original parts were rated. The higher rating of the new parts just means more headroom, so they will never fail again, and no it will not cause other parts to fail.
it seems that switch mode power supplies are unreliable; the constant switching of mosfets just works them too hard, causing failure; all of this for saving expense of power transformer.
@@12voltvids PTS electronics didn't try to fix it. They just checked and said it is not wort to repair. If you want I can sand you board and you can make video why is not repairable.
+Denis Horellou You are probably not going to like this answer.According to the service manual 3 blinks is either the main logic board, or a power supply issue. Check standby and run voltages to determine if it is the power supply.5 blinks is bad connections between the LCD panel and the tcon, or a bad panel.Told you that you wouldn't like the answer.
+Denis Horellou Check google. The error codes can be found there.Just search for the model number and type 2 blinks and the fault codes should be displayed.
I have a Sony power supply board reference is APS-254 is 147420221-1008B408523 and TV KDL-40EX500 reference, by turning it a green light and a red flashing 2 times, stops flashing and returns to red flashing 2 again.
+12voltvids I 3.3V to power on the CN6401 when I press the button and after a few seconds I lost and I 3.3V puts the red light flashing 2 times stops and repeats flashing 2fois
Hi , i have SONY KLV 32EX330 it Blink 5 time red after green when i am switching on from remote. This TV is powered with an External Adapter 19.5 Volt, do checked by replacing the adapter but not resolved. I have a picture of the main board, would like to send it to you, please provide your email id. My only doubt is a tiny battery like thing on the main board, it is rusty.
+Jazzy Groove That's poking fun at a troll that was taking shots at me for pointing, but not touching components in a power supply that was energized. Said that electricity could jump and kill me. It was a 12 volt supply, yet this person was trying to get the video taken down a year or so ago, and was telling me that I would be liable if someone got hurt taking my advise.
+Brian smith If you look back a bit you will find one I did on a 1959 Seabreeze vintage record player.When I get around to getting a cartridge for my Thrornes Jubalie I will do a video on that. I got a belt for it last year, but the cartridge is bunged.
So? Your point. It's HD. Plenty of people still watch 720p sets. This one has already lasted longer than any of the modern sets, and is still working 5 years later. Try that with your LED POS TV.
![งมหอย จับปลา มือเปล่า หาอยู่หากินแบบวีถีอีสานกับแก๊งเซียนหรั่ง ม่วนคัก! [ขอนแก่น] @Sianstudio](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JEJZg6N-AbU/mqdefault.jpg)
Love your style of teaching; particularly the way you 'review/go over' things at the end. I think you're the only guy that actually does that! Thanks for sharing...very well done!
As a very old tv engineer myself I did my time as an apprentice 1960 and still going stoing.I am pleased to see you told youngsters to discharge to main capacitor.
One of the old school REAL engineers a pleasure to watch an expert at work.
Hello all right, I'm Technician electronic greetings Brazilian'm a big fan of his work congratulations !!!
Your experience really paid off there. Great job narrowing down the problem.
I'm still learning and I know I'm going to have to watch this video again. There's a lot of good information here. Thanks for going over your troubleshooting procedure at the end.
Regards, Tom
THOMMGB This was a good one, a power supply damaged by a power surge.This is the type of damage experienced by lightning strikes.
A word of warning, buy only original parts from Sony. They are pricey, but the market is flooded with cheap knock off parts that will blow up in your face.I got stung repeatedly when I was in the biz because the shop owner wanted to maximize profits, and wanted the 3.00 parts from aftermarket sellers rather than the high priced originals. The counterfeiters are very good and the knock off parts will look identical. Not until you grind away the case material and reveal the semiconductor chip do you see the difference. This is why I resorted to pulling good parts from another Sony TV board. This set was for a paying customer, and I do not need to have a boomerang due to cheap parts. The parts I used were rated higher than the originals, so they won't fail again.
Thank you for making this video. Between this information and the troubleshooting flowcharts in the Sanyo Service Manual, I was able to fix my Sanyo FVM4012 TV by replacing the power supply board.
For future reference, my symptoms were:
-RED power LED on whenever AC cord was plugged in
-No backlights, no image, no sound
-3.3V Standby was present on both the Power Board and Main Board
-No 24V present on the Power or Main Boards
-No 58V on Power Board
I don't know which component(s) failed, I just replaced the entire board.
Great video always like always informative in the eighties when I was in my teens trying learn this tread
Fantastic video!! Always love learning a bit more. Can't wait to find some sets and get them on the bench!
Just came across your videos, found it very informative you now have a new sub, great work look forward to seeing more👍👍👍
Always nice to watch your videos, thanks for explaining things in a good way so people who has not really been working with that set (or that type of unit) can have an easier way of understanding things.
And i know people bash you from time to time let the haters hate lol you know, you beat them in every single way.
Last thing i repaired was a faulty powersupply of a samsung 32" lcd tv that probably had a powersurge on the mains rectifier bridge toast and the ptc did do its job i say both driving transistors to thebacklight did short circuit too but they are replaced and now a working set.
thank you very much for all your vids and the way you explain the problems
Yes, my Sony KDL 32EX 710 also has a fantastic picture also. After 8 years I am still impressed with the picture quality and the colors. My tv is newer than this one and only 0.5 inch thick.
Sony TV's have overall better picture reproduction than other brands, we have a KDL40 from 2013 Led LCD and I'm impressed by the color reproduction and the black level (it has 3 stages of black leveling) it's pretty darn good for a LCD. I also have a Samsung Plasma 42 inch from 2007 bought it used for 50EUR (aprox. 55USD) and it's still rockin' 💪 now I'm going to repair a Samsung Plasma PS51F5570 (in the US known as PN51F5570 and PN51F5500) that I've bought for 30EUR (aprox. 33USD)! Y sus is faulty it has a blown TPC8407 IC, Q5005, 2 shorted transistors and maybe some other components... so I bought a whole board instead and now I'm waiting it because it's not shipped yet. I only hope that the panel doesn't have any vertical lines because those are a really pain in the ass to repair, if it's only a bad COF bonding on the ribbon cable than I'm lucky :-)
Thanks mine was the same problem, she is all better now.
I think my parents have the same Sony TV. Either this model or one very similar to this. It's a great TV, nice picture as you've said. An interesting thing is they have two brightness modes for the LCD backlight. If the picture is very dim or mostly black they dim the backlight to make the black look more black. That's of course the disadvantage of LCD technology, black is never 100% black. That's what OLED technology will fix. From what I heard Sony is one of the leading companies in OLED technology. Maybe that will enable them to make a comeback as the company with the best TVs like they were back in the Trinitron days...
DrCassette Most LCD sets use backlight dimming these days to try to improve black levels.OLED is superior technology. My camera uses that for the viewfinder, so what I see is exactly what the sensor sees. Lets see if they can get large oled technology screens that are affordable as the current ones certainly are not.
I like the way u do things. 👍
One of the best info video I've seen
The true tale of an excellent Technician. You troubleshooted to replace components. Most would have just replaced the whole board!!
+service1956 That is true today, and I have done that too. I changed the buffer board on a Samsung plasma that was given to me because the entire board cost 15.00. I also did have to repair the cold solder on the y sustain that was the root cause for the buffer board blowing in the first place.
Great job! I wish I had your knowledge and diagnostic equipment!
Excellent work sir ! I enjoy your video and repair explanations are awesome. Keep making great videos and I will keep watching..
Thanks Dave, I just picked up a dead KDL-32EX400 with a blown main fuse. I will do some testing and see if it has the same issues. J K
I appreciate your videos on troubleshooting. Excellent explained.
Great work, like watching your videos, interestingly I have the exact same fault in the same model the other day...
Watched some of your videos and I must say I'm really impressed with your knowledge..Just Subscribed to learn a few things on my new hobby lol...
Thank you for sharing...
Dude! you rock! thank you for explaining what and why your doing... this vid. led me to fix my 40" bravia aps-284 supply board. Thank you again!
Great work Dave
really thorough presention - superb . Thank you
Great Video, and going back to explain is soo helpfull.
why some ppl are giving thumbs down to all of the videos I can't understand. There is always something to learn from these videos.
Great job ....... Thanks for sharing ....!!!!!
Thanks for the informative video. At 0:30 where you are showing the model number, voltages, serial number, etc it shows the voltage as 110v- 240 v 50/60 hz at the top left. however at the bottom right enclosed within a box with UL, FCC symbols, it reads only 120v 60 hz - just wondering why - is this TV and power supply capable of handling 220 v ac 50 hz ? and if so why do they list both a voltage range of 120-240 as well as 120 on the same label thanks
Gracias por la explicación tan amplia y clara.
Great job as usual =)
great video, learned a lot! thankyou.
awesome job well done .i finally found a video that shows d power supply problems an solutions
Hello, excellent video. I have a KDL-32BX321, the card is the same, but with the multimeter at terminal 3 (power on), when I connect the 127 vac power cord; 3.3 volts appear without pressing the power button.
What items can i check?
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR GOOD TUTORIAL SIR
Great job but did I see you using the top of that primary filter cap for a ground measuring DC? That's not a ground, either hot side of chassis or cold. You'll get a reading but it's due to capacitive coupling. Glad this worked out though!
+Mark Zacharias In many large capacitors the negative terminal is internally bonded to the can.This one is such a cap. Had it not been I wouldn't have got a stable reading, it would have been all over the map. and I would have been looking for the hot ground point. Out of a box of used caps I just checked more than half of them measure 0 ohms between the ground and case. These are all standard 85' caps. All the high temperature and high frequency caps are totally isolated.
+12voltvids Just checked one on a similar Sony board. No continuity. Seen it lots of times of course on older multi-section types...
+Mark Zacharias I just checked 2 scrap boards from Sony LCD sets. One was the board I pulled the transistors from. One board had continuity from the can to negative, and another similar board but with a different brand of caps did not. It all depends on the brand, and the manufacturing process they use. Not all multi sectional caps had a common ground. Many did but not all. This one did because I had already done the diagnosis off camera before I rolled. Had it not been grounded I would have used the negative side of the bridge rectifier as my hot ground reference. If you look at some of my other power supply service videos you will indeed see my hot ground reference to the negative terminal on the bridge. I only used the capacitor on this set because this cap was a ground reference.Try measuring the raw B+ on one of those with an isolated can, you won't see the 390V from the voltage doubler, you will be lucky if you see anything because your meter probe will effectively be connected to, well nothing!
Very Well Done Video Thanks For Sharing Your Skills
Hi. I have KDL-32EX400. I followed you step by step. My meter only read 0.4v where I should have reads 3.3v What do you think thick could be?
Thank you for making such videos. Sir I have a Toshiba lcd TV 32" .when we press the on button from the remote green LED is working and a flashline appears on the screen and blackout. I check the 12 & 24 v is coming when I press the on button and disappears. I replaced both optocouplers and filters but it doesn't make any difference. Sir pls advise me what could be the possible problem? Wtg for your valuable reply.thank you.
very good and easy understanding video.thanks.
Speaking of Power Supply, I have my 2010 Vizio M260VA LED TV, when I was going to get it fixed where it tells me that the LED TV is dead, how do I identify the defective spare parts where I may need to replace one for the Motherboard?
Hi, very interesting video. And informative too. I am trying to replair my Sony KDL 32NX500. It has got the same APS252 board shown in this video. I dont get 3.3V at the standby pin. can you help with what needs to be checked first. Thank you
I knew a TV repair man once living in Chorley Pall mall TV repairs, Brian kitchen And Steve Taylor l think they may still be around somewhere our family moved away never saw Brian again.
Almost a distant memory seeing the old shop and work bench. Watched a few videos that I think it was shango did where he visited some old shops as they were closing out. Brought back memories for sure.
Thank you for your efforts 🌹 professional 🌹
I was. For 20+ years doing this for a living.
@@12voltvids I'm beginner in this carrier.. Trying to learn in TH-cam videos.I repaired chargers and inductive cooker .crt screens etc.. and now I'm trying to understand the mechanism of lcd and led screens..Making small workshop in my house. In future I will open Maintenance shop....
Great work
Thank you for the insight, it helped me locate & diagnose the two transistors. How can I identify replacements? They are currently K4096 0G1
ECA reference book.
Now if your standby is present what's your next step? I have a kdl 40bx450 with the same issue (no power) my standby is 3.3 which is present...
I have a Sony Bravia 40Ex400 and the led turns on to green from red, but then it blinks slowly or stay green but no sound, video or on screen display menu. Is it the main board or backlight inverter (still should have sound, right?)? Any advice would be highly appreciated it.
Thank you very much 😃 👍
Ive got a KDL40EX-521 that has a greenish colored screen, is it worth attempting to fix, and what should I be looking for?
Hi, 1st thanks for this video. Have you worked on the power supply of the EX2m chassis? My power supply has no 3.3VDC standby voltage and all fuses are good. Where should I check for the source of the problem?
thanks!
+the wonderland If you are missing your 3.3 it is one of a few things. Either the capacitors in the standby secondary have failed (high esr) or the oscillator is not working.Unfortunately I am not familiar with that model number, but all switching power supplies operate pretty much the same. I had never serviced the model in this video before I saw this one either, yet I was able to figure it out without a schematic relatively easy.
Good fix. No whackers.
Non sérieux, j'ai vraiment un soucis avec cet télé, je ne trouve que le 3V du STBY3.3v, DE AC OFF DET. Le reste rien à par 3.3V à POWER ON lorsque j'appuie sur le bouton. STP PLEASE HELP ME
Hi 12v, I have this same model Sony set, totally dead after a storm. I replaced the PS board (with one that was supposed to work, but not guaranteed), and now I have 3.3v at Standby. But Tv still didn't work. So I then replaced the main board, but still nothing from the TV at all. So I suspect my replacement PS is bad.
How did you get power to go into the "Power On" lead? Hit the power button, jump standby to ground, jump standby to "Power On", etc? Thank you, Scott.
More than likely. You need to check the individual voltages and see if all the supplies are operating. I TS down to component level on this one. It isn't my set, it is one that came in for repair, and went back to it's owner.
Thanks a lot 12v. I'll watch the video again, but I don't remember seeing how you got the main board to call for power. At about 4:30- 4:40 you say it's calling for power at "Power On", but I can't figure out how you did that. Nothing appears jumped in your video. I put the voltmeter at Power On and hit the power button, and got zero V. If I have correct standby power, would a good main board supply power back to the PS by merely hitting the power button?
I said the 3rd one up (from the bottom) is the power on. It toggles between 0 and 3.3 to turn the PSU on. That connects to the opto coupler, the middle one is what I am pointing at. There will be voltage across the LED COLD side (the top pins) which will be making the internal LED shine on the photo transistor which is on the HOT side of the power supply. WHen I refer to the HOT and COLD side I am referring to the hot ground side, or primary side of the PSU, and the COLD side is the cold, or isolated ground side, or secondary side.The job of the opto-coupler is to provide electrical isolation between the HOT AC side, and the isolated side of the chassis. If you get the voltage toggling on the power control opto isolator when you press the power button then the control board is working, and you have a PSU issue.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain it. I was advised to disconnect the main board, jump Standby to Power On (to remove the main board from the situation), then test the two "REG12V" pins for voltage. I got zero volts at both, which I assume indicates that the PS is bad. Sound definitive to you, or should I also recreate the test you describe/show? Thanks again.
Hi there,
It great to share such info.
I hope you can give me advise.
I have a old Sony watchman Fdl 302.
It power up with light and sound but no image.
Is it possible to fix?
Thanks
Alan Wong Anything is possible to fix.You need to get in and start taking measurements and see what it going on. Probably a capacitor somewhere.
Can i use aps-252 instead of the aps-254 i see they have the same conector and everything but the board have some component missing compared to the model 254
good job sir.
hi , excellent video. i have a KDL-46EX520 power board, how come my 3.3 standby voltage is dropping? Can you assist me please?
tnx
Possible capacitors drying out in the power supply. Or something is loading it down.
hi, tnx for the fast reply, i'll check on the capacitors and keep in touch. tnx again
I have a problem with KDL40EX500 TV, when I turn on the TV I Have the screen remains black, by the time a bright light appears on the TV and the red light flashes.
+Denis Horellou You need to count the flashes of the red light, That is an error code that you can look up, and it should guide you in the right direction. I have no idea what is wrong with it based on that description. Could be one of the fluorescent tubes failing, and drawing too much or too little current and causing the TV to go into shut down mode. This is the only set like this I have worked on so I can only comment on what work I have done on it, and you see it here in the video.
hi sir how we can decide that any ic not good? I mean not working properly or faulty.plz reply sir.thanks.
Good job sir nice video ...
Time to replace the spring on the 'ol magnifier lamp, eh? 😆
@9:40 It's actually a "KLV" model, not "KVL"... Just sayin'
thanks for the info...👍
Hi 12voltvids
Do you think its better to
Fix at component level
or replace the whole board?
I know it's cheaper to buy
at component level,
but just curious
Thanks for you're awesome videos
I learned a lot from you
😇😄❤️️😇
Board replacement is easier for sure. If you have the skills to do component level, then go for it. The satisfaction of troubleshooting to the component level as opposed to being a board jockey is worth it. At least for me it is.
Only replace a board as a next step if component repair is either not economical or practical, and time is money (especially for customer items).
In the old days of tube equipment, technicians who replaced a bad tube were often called "valve jockeys' (or "tube jockeys" depending where you lived). The number of call-outs to replace a white-capped vertical or horizontal output tube in a B&W TV was high back then.
Excelente....saludos
got a green light but no pitcher no sound what could it be ?
I don't understand if it got 3vstb and it still the power supply nmmm
Why would they create a high frequency AC signal from the rectified AC signal? PWM?
That is how switch mode power supplies work. Around 50 kHz. The reason is efficiency. A small transformer as opposed to a large 60 Hz transformer.
95% efficiency vs 60-70 max.
@@12voltvids yeah it is pretty obvious now that you say it, not sure where my head was... thanks 😎
the value looks different on the original Mosdfet 2SK4096 vs 2SK3568 the replacement part won't higher current rating cause other parts to fail is.the current is. it correct
No not at all. That is the maximum ration the part can handle. Just because the part can handle more voltage or current doesn't mean the device will draw more. The device will draw what it is designed to, which would have been below what the original parts were rated. The higher rating of the new parts just means more headroom, so they will never fail again, and no it will not cause other parts to fail.
it seems that switch mode power supplies are unreliable; the constant switching of mosfets just works them too hard, causing failure; all of this for saving expense of power transformer.
Actually the use of switching power supplies stemmed from the requirement to make equipment more energy efficient.
Would you fix my A board of panasonic plasma tc-p42x1. It was reined at and another repair store said it is not worth to repair.
No I wouldn`t touch anything fuc&ed up by someone else.
@@12voltvids No problem. Thanks for answering. It is f by one above (rain).
@@12voltvids PTS electronics didn't try to fix it. They just checked and said it is not wort to repair. If you want I can sand you board and you can make video why is not repairable.
thanks for this ...
What happens when lightning strikes? Is in progress?
hi sir what will i do if the 3.3 volts is no output going to the main board
Check the 3.3v regulator.
Good video
i have one samsung plasma there is five horizontal lines on top, how to solve the problem. thank you
issue with the t con board likely
The indicator flashes 3 times and has already flashed 5 times at another time, I do not know what that could mean.
+Denis Horellou You are probably not going to like this answer.According to the service manual 3 blinks is either the main logic board, or a power supply issue. Check standby and run voltages to determine if it is the power supply.5 blinks is bad connections between the LCD panel and the tcon, or a bad panel.Told you that you wouldn't like the answer.
+12voltvids The LED now flashes red 2 times, I do not know what that means?
+Denis Horellou Check google. The error codes can be found there.Just search for the model number and type 2 blinks and the fault codes should be displayed.
I have a Sony power supply board reference is APS-254 is 147420221-1008B408523 and TV KDL-40EX500 reference, by turning it a green light and a red flashing 2 times, stops flashing and returns to red flashing 2 again.
+12voltvids I 3.3V to power on the CN6401 when I press the button and after a few seconds I lost and I 3.3V puts the red light flashing 2 times stops and repeats flashing 2fois
Was passiert, wenn ein Blitz einschlägt?
15:57 like a boss
Hi , i have SONY KLV 32EX330 it Blink 5 time red after green when i am switching on from remote. This TV is powered with an External Adapter 19.5 Volt, do checked by replacing the adapter but not resolved. I have a picture of the main board, would like to send it to you, please provide your email id. My only doubt is a tiny battery like thing on the main board, it is rusty.
12voltvids sir I have Sony HBD dz310 this problems no sound no loading.please helps .my .gmail .pmr9447321757 @gmail.com
👏👏👏👏
what is this black ic in the back side
geoepi321975 That is the regulator / driver ic. It controls the t transistors that blew.
Hahahah good one on the 3v transformer touching
+Jazzy Groove That's poking fun at a troll that was taking shots at me for pointing, but not touching components in a power supply that was energized. Said that electricity could jump and kill me. It was a 12 volt supply, yet this person was trying to get the video taken down a year or so ago, and was telling me that I would be liable if someone got hurt taking my advise.
What is the intro music please
musicbakery.com/undercover/
Oh well it's junk I guess.
12voltvids ever fix a record player?
+Brian smith Yes I have fixed hundreds of them.I have a nice Thrones that I should service. Need to get a cartridge for it.
Do you have any record player repair videos on here?
+Brian smith If you look back a bit you will find one I did on a 1959 Seabreeze vintage record player.When I get around to getting a cartridge for my Thrornes Jubalie I will do a video on that. I got a belt for it last year, but the cartridge is bunged.
Great😆
when u test d voltage frm d capicator to d resistor u got 391v .so now i know dat my capicator is bad cause i got 155v frm dat lead
Hey! Get you finger off that transformer!!! Hahah!!
fix me. i'm broke.
IF YOU DO HACE FOR NOTNATION PLEASE SENF ME ONE I WILL PAY THE SHIPPOING.
Old tv. Full hd.
So? Your point. It's HD. Plenty of people still watch 720p sets. This one has already lasted longer than any of the modern sets, and is still working 5 years later. Try that with your LED POS TV.
Hai
Hi. I have KDL-32EX400. I followed you step by step. My meter only read 0.4v where I should have reads 3.3v What do you think it could be?
Was passiert, wenn ein Blitz einschlägt?