i’m glad you found it helpful. i’ll be posting a couple new slipjoint videos tomorrow based on Swiss Army knives. deconstructing them is a dirt cheap way to learn, and super easy to do.
I am suffering this problem on a knife I own. The kick is not pronounced, so I'm not even sure if it's a kick or if the knife is annoyingly landing on the blade itself. But I'm thinking I may try filing/sanding/grinding at the kick and see if it improves things. If so, I will be delighted because right now I can't pocket carry it. I've already cut myself.
Is the blade not staying closed tightly? That’s unfortunate but not a deal breaker. If you like the knife you can carry it in a pocket slip. At least then the tip wouldn’t bite you.
Great question! The answer is no, it does not change the spring height. The height of the spring is determined by the contact corner of the blade tang. The kick dimension only controls how deep the blade sits. Having said that- The geometry of the blade tang is crucial here, and if that corner radius isn’t long enough then the corner will rotate past it’s maximum height and the spring height will indeed change, just as you suspected. This is a big reason why I shape the tang the way I do. I want big round lobes for corners so that the distance from the pivot pin to the tang corner remains constant as rotates against the spring. Sounds complicated, but it’s not. Round corners on the tang makes it all work.
Pretty good job john ! 👍
I know its an older video but thank you for the information! Im just starting to learn knife making.
i’m glad you found it helpful. i’ll be posting a couple new slipjoint videos tomorrow based on Swiss Army knives. deconstructing them is a dirt cheap way to learn, and super easy to do.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 ill look forward to it
Excellent video on adjusting the knife what is the purpose of the milled out section around the pivot point is it necessary ?
Good info. Thanks!
I am suffering this problem on a knife I own. The kick is not pronounced, so I'm not even sure if it's a kick or if the knife is annoyingly landing on the blade itself. But I'm thinking I may try filing/sanding/grinding at the kick and see if it improves things. If so, I will be delighted because right now I can't pocket carry it. I've already cut myself.
Is the blade not staying closed tightly? That’s unfortunate but not a deal breaker. If you like the knife you can carry it in a pocket slip. At least then the tip wouldn’t bite you.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 tip sits outside of the liners by a mm.
@@idrinkwine grinding the kick a few thousandths should solve that.
Did that affect the spring's closed position in relation to the open? Can you adjust the kick without affecting the adjustments you made on the RFI?
Great question! The answer is no, it does not change the spring height. The height of the spring is determined by the contact corner of the blade tang. The kick dimension only controls how deep the blade sits.
Having said that- The geometry of the blade tang is crucial here, and if that corner radius isn’t long enough then the corner will rotate past it’s maximum height and the spring height will indeed change, just as you suspected. This is a big reason why I shape the tang the way I do. I want big round lobes for corners so that the distance from the pivot pin to the tang corner remains constant as rotates against the spring.
Sounds complicated, but it’s not. Round corners on the tang makes it all work.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 Yes, that makes a lot of sense
Can you cut the back spring and extend your blade length?
Ps your back spring should match the blade tang in the closed position.
Полезное видео.