Im all for DYI, and this video was excellent. It also showed me that I would 100% hire someone to do this for me, due to my abilty of screwing things up and making them worse than they originally are.
@@weekendwarrior3420 Meh, I do enough stuff to repair and maintain on my house and cars. And what used to be my camping trailer, quad, 2 ride on lawn mowers, a rough cut mower, and hauling water for my acreage, See, theres only so many hours in a day, and a guy CANT know it all, and as well, have time to do it all. Unless all you want to do in your spare time is work.
@@virgil3241my dad knows it all and knows everything. He did also miss out on all of our childhoods, never went to practices or competitions even my bro going to State. You can’t have it all.
Thank you for a most helpful tutorial video. I was able to remove the incredibly intimidating flange without calling a plumber. Saved me at least $200. Thank you very much!
Aloha, I use Set Rite toilet flange extensions as a shim under the glue on flange. It brings it up to the right height and you can drill through to securely set the flange with tapcons. It’s much faster than than any cement product. Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work.
By far my LEAST favorite repair! I’ve always preferred/enjoyed new construction, but service and repair is a craft in its own league. It’s like a wholly different skill set. It’s always something! Especially in Bakersfield you see a lot of hokie pokie home repairs and installations.. like Arizona bends glued under slabs with pipe dope… sheeez! Now you have to address that and explain to the homeowner they got screwed… not for me man. Hats off and thank you to all the service and repair tradesmen; you guys are genuine craftsmen. I love the channel, Roger! It’s great to see a man taking pride in his craft.
you know you're going to have a long day when you pull a toilet up and you see a broken flange in a slab floor. better have some inside-cutters! oh, and heaven help you if they installed the plumbing fitting-tight. in that case, you better have a sharp saw and a lot of patience. and you don't need a wetvac to empty the toilet, a few hard pumps with a good plunger will do the trick to empty the toilet trap
@@kingokafor6215 A speed run when you already know what to expect is a bit different than walking into an unknown. I would be very happy to see you lift an old toilet, replace the flange, and set the new toilet in under ten minutes. Clearly, you are not a plumber.
@@brrrayday i’m a plumber and resetting a toilet with a broken flange on a slab, if you’re savvy, takes about an hour. Not really a day ruiner unless you’re inexperienced.
So different to the European installations, we use 90mm PVC pipe, then there is a 90 to 110 mm adapter, on that opening we install a toilet rubber connector that fits snuggly in that 110mm opening where the porcelain will also fit snuggly in that rubber connector. Also out toilets have less water on the bowl but has a larger opening so they very rarely clog. American toilets use a siphonic discharge system so they have narrow discharge paths while European use a washdown system where water pushes everything out.
Which country are UK? I made the same comment as yourself. A non professional can change a UK toilet without any great difficulty. I would be daunted by the US design.
I'm a floor guy by trade, plumber by obligation! This videos actually very helpful. Let's me know im doing the right thing by involving plumbers to do this part. Thank you..will definitely continue to pass that part of the job to you profesional plumbers! 🎉
It is nice to see another professional on the other side of the country repairing a toilet flange in concrete in the same way I do. Makes me feel like I am doing something right lol
So, you really ONLY use primer when installing a pvc flange? Lmao, I would have applied the glue after primer...unless he just decided to skip that step 😮😅
Ok, that answers my question. The primer softens up the PVC enough so that the PVC ‘self-glues’ in place? I’ll try that, but I have ABS to PVC and might opt for a light coating of transition cement. I said ‘Light’ coating.
Soldered a lead flange today, and the customer was salty about the price... had to explain to him that it's like doing surgery and precision, and focus is key
Do you always use those metal ring flanges? I am on the fence with using them. I like the convenience of the spinning piece of metal, but I like solid flange for rigidity. At least the concrete didn't blow out when using the tapcons!! Always a plus!!!
I’ve replaced 5 toilets now and it took me 4 times to finally stop using a sponge to get all the water out. I used a Smart Water bottle with the little spout style mouthpiece to suck up all the water like a bulb syringe and it worked so well! I thought it was ‘Smart’
Roger? Did you NOT use pvc cement on the flange when fit into the floor, just primer? I didn’t see the cement application step? Is this so that the flange can easily be removed at a later time for repair?
Perfect example why tapcons are garbage. I like how he pretended like he didn't break the second one off and brushed it with his finger like nobody saw that.
I actually prefer the flange level with the finished floor or a touch lower because I’ve ran into a few toilets that didn’t envelop the flange and actually had to be shimmed and caulked around, not that I don’t always caulk but usually the toilet isn’t weighed down onto the flange itself
@@williammorris3303 You spend too much time sitting on one instead of knowing how to install.. The flanges are meant to sit on top of the finished floor and if you have issues with that it's due to an uneven floor...if you took the time to put a straight edge on the floor you would clearly see that
@@davo912 new construction, on slab restaurant in Pittsburgh PA, I’m not sure how the inspection process in your area is but I assure you if I’m teetering on a flange there it has nothing to do with the floor as opposed to the small throat on some of these new flanges and the long horn on the toilet. But I apologize I tend to make it a point to not argue with someone who seems to have parents that are blood related to each other
@@williammorris3303OH really new contruction slab? That's all we have here is slabs...Earth to willy, the slabs ARE NOT FLAT. Luckily in our area there are no inspections otherwise you would fail.. But there tons of people like you who think they know what is right but actually no nothing..
I'll give you a tip. Don't use an impact driver with those Tapcon cement screws. Use a regular drill. The impact driver is what's causing them to snap.
Scoring the pipe ID with the saw was a mistake. Lightly cleaning the ID with some 180 grit sandpaper would provide an adequate gluing surface. Those deep cuts you made ruined the watertight integrity of the drain.
This is why I won’t use plastic flanges. I’ll use the plastic stainless steel combo flanges and securely fasten with four screws. Never had one fail. Big Bertha can really put a beating on them plastic flanges when she sits down.
@@979vlogs7 buddy it’s stainless steel. There are thousands of homes still with cast iron pipes and still working fine. Flanges won’t even touch water unless there is a leak which gets fixed anyways. Cast iron pipes touch water upon each flush.
Roger have you ever tried liquilock from oatey? I never pull a toilet without it. It’s a small packet of power that jells the water for a drip less toilet removal. I even pour a little in the tank too to keep all the water jelled. Seriously a great product!
@@solidsnake2085 The great thing about liqulock is that you don’t have a shop vac full of toilet water that you have to deal with. Trust me there’s no going back once you try it.
@augustlindow1162 Dump toliet water down a sink as long as it's clean or dump outside in the grass it's just water.Why waste money if you don't have to maybe if there's no other sinks or toliets .
A Plumber for over 40 years in Illinois. Flange should be flush or no higher than 1/8 with finished floor. Wax seal is designed for sewer gas not waste water. Difference is how long the wax ring lasts and if you want it to leak in the shorter time then expected. Had to put 100+ flange risers in Naperville for new hardwood floors rotting and structural joists repaired. Oatey now makes them simple and easy. Being a licence plumber teaches the basics under codes. Experience, you learn the wrong way, the right way(code), the better way if you don't want any problems in the future. Changed my wax ring and many other 30+ years and they were in still good shape with no leaks because the flange was flush or under 1/4 inch higher than the finished floor. No gray area here. Just do it right the first time and you will have no future issues down the line that created even more issues besides plumbing. Licenced Plumber, renovation, repair, carpentry, roofing, house flipper and always learning on how to do it better. Work with cast iron, abs, copper, brass, PVC, metal piping, cpvc etc. Learned more from how not to do it repair jobs. Suburbs and Chicago. Residence commercial industrial experience.
It really doesnt matter if the flange is flush with the floor or raised a 1/4" above the finished floor. Its very possible to get a 100% sealed toilet either way. Your finished floor being level is important. Also i prefer not to caulk around toilet..for one caulk gets nasty over time and for two if there is a potential leak its better to see it right away. Btw..i'm a tile guy, not a plumber so this is just my experience.
Caulk your toilet dude, it’s code. And if you think the caulk get gross, try under the toilet base with no caulk. Everything needs maintenance, you can’t expect caulk to last forever. If anything leave the back uncaulked..
Hello, Mr. Wakefield. I found your channel after watching an advertisement for this air-plunger-type device. I'll stick to my plunger and, if needed, use baking soda, vinegar, and warm water to clear my drain. I enjoy your videos, and a union plumber friend enjoys your video too. A question for you. California has a drought problem, and now our tank is filled to six liters or 1.6 gallons per flush. Is a Pressure Assisted Flush System worth getting? I have a friend who is a licensed and bonded plumber in California, and I will ask him to add the device if you believe it's worth getting. Thank you.
Anyone else notice the cut marks on the old pipe? I wonder if that severely compromises the integrity of the old drain pipe and how to avoid getting those cut marks. I know that if the flange pipe is glued to the old plumbing than its difficult to remove the flange so cutting with a jigsaw seems like the only option.
Roger you need to learn what a rotary hammer drill when doing your tap con holes. You’re killing yourself with that garbage dewalt.. 😂 j/k But despite that you are still the man and appreciate your vids.
Great video and very professional, but at 1:50 I promise I thought he said get the wet back in here. It wasn't until I heard the vacuum spin up that I realized what he meant.
Currently redoing the nursery for my church so the ladies have a good place to come out and nurse their babies and hang out during the service. Everything has gone flawlessly but there’s one little wing with a bathroom and they wanted the toilet replaced. After the flooring I figured another five min to drop a new toilet in there and then I happened upon a completely rotted out flange and I’ve never dealt with that before
Nice video. Good channel. I like you’re approach to teaching and showing. If you can fix one thing, I’ll watch the rest of the channel. Your voice is your tool and just like the other tools you have, Use the contractor grade…the most powerful you can handle. The only sound i hear is either your voice, or a tool working. Edit down the tools to match voice so the overall output is the same.
So what did you do about the broken screw/anchor ? And what or how is that going to affect the toilet seal. Also what kind of seal did you use on this toilet being the flange set at least a 1/4 " below the floor?
Aside from being extremely careful, is there a trick or a recommended blade for the sawzall or a different tool to make an notch on the interior pipe to remove the flange? Ive done it before and make a nick on the exterior pipe and not my proudest moment, used extra abs glue and tested the hell out of it to make sure it wouldnt leak. It worked, but I would like to avoid that for any future repairs
The compact reciprocating saws with and appropriate length bi metal blade has been my go to for removing solvent welded joints, and also for removing drains from tub shoes. The compact size makes it much more manageable. Biggest thing is patience, at least from my experience.
If you feel like taking your time just use a good old hand powered hackzall, that's what I do so I don't ruin the exterior pipe. Better to be safe than sorry. Plus there's no way to see if it's leaking in the slab after you set it unless the line is completely backed up.
Its not often i need to use this method, but ive put a mark on the blade with a sharpie almost equal to the wall thickness of the pipe and as you said, just take your time. the abs / pvc will tend to give way even if its not fully cut, remember. you cant uncut it.
Once the old flange is removed, just buy either type of flange whether its the insert type (preferred because it reduces possibility of water leakage), or the same on to replace.
It would be nice if toilet makers would build these with a long drain neck that fits inside of the flange a few inches. This would save issues with it leaking.
Sheeet just get out ur map gas and carefully warm up the old pvc flange make 2 little cuts to take a chunk out of the pvc flange then grab ur channel locks and twist while slower warming it up. Worked for me the old flange will peel right out
How much are you wanting to spend? I have a Kohler and a Toto and an American Standard…they are all great in different ways…I’d stay away from Glacier Bay and similar cheap box store toilets
@@RogerWakefield Thank you! I won't be replacing my toilet for another few months, but I'm looking spend no more than $500 on the toilet itself. I don't know didlysquat about toilet quality, but I like the idea of a water efficient model with a comfortable build, elongated and tall, that I can add a Toto Washlet to in the future.
@@MariePrive I can see that being less likely to break for sure. They are not as aesthetically pleasing in my opinion. It could be that I'm not used to them though. How are back to back toilets plumbed? Do they share a sanitary sweeping Y fitting?
@@jamescarter6318 they attach via a Y fitting...very easily and it is all hidden at the back. Like what else would you put behind a toilet so aesthetically hidden
I just installed a new Horow toilet today. I had replaced the flange earlier and chose to put it on top of the new tile. Guess what, toilet rocks. I made a little shim so it's ok but now regretting not tiling around the flange. And this is the type with the stainless ring, which is a little thinner. So in my case the flange should have been flush or only maybe and eighth higher than the finished floor.
I think that may be the first mistake, you are assuming that the floor and top of that pipe is level all the way before installing the flange. I had a plumber make that mistake and my flange is not level in either direction and I have leaking issues.
If that new flange is solvent-welded in, how the hell do you replace it when the ring rusts out for the next install? Am I missing something? How is it that the old one came out at all?
I just replaced a toilet and noticed the flange was bent and was raised at two points. I tried to hammer the high points down. Got the toilet in but now i hear a noise when moving my body. So my question is that so i really have to take it out like you do hers or can u just replace the flange?
He definitely failed. The pipe had score lines in it. I would like to know how he sealed that, because PVC cement will shrink and leave those channels open for sewer gasses to escape.
My pipe that goes into the floor is iron. And my flange is completely gone I believe. What do I need to do or get. I pulled the toilet to change the wax ring. Both of my studs were broken. Now i have it off there is no PVC whatsoever. What do I need to do now
Do you ever use an insert repair flange to avoid this? It does choke the opening down a bit, but saves a lot of time and cost if the homeowner does not have a lot of money
Hey everybody seems like a lot of experience on this thread. Can anyone tell me why when i go to tighten the nut at the end my bolt twists and pulls out of the flange. Seems like a desighn flaw if you ask me thanks!!! Love the vidros they are a lot of help to a novice like me
The flange is designed so that the bolt head can be inserted at one point and then followed a groove to a more narrow area to where the bolt head is tight. So your flange might be turned incorrectly if the bolt is just coming out. Do you have the toilet removed or its still on? Have you tried holding the tip of the bolt and trying to tighten the nut?
Why no comment whatsoever about that purple primer stuff? What it is, what it does, did you apply some from both of those containers? Thats what I'm tryin to find out..
Please help, just had a new toilet installed but now water seeps out the sides of the base. It's been in about two months and it happens periodically. I assume they put in a new flange. What could be causing it?
Check if closet bolts are a little loose. Happens from people sitting on it sometimes. Especially with newly installed toilets that aren’t all the way seated.
@@RogerWakefield Thanks for being so kind to respond, and quickly. I'm a new subscriber, maybe a month or so and I find your videos interesting and helpful. Unfortunately, the plumbers installed all PVc/ Plastic fittings under the sinks, etc. Everything leaks, and the accordion drain fittings are at weird angles. When you run water in the sink, the toilet bubbles and then if you take a shower, it backs up.
I can't find a single video to help me. I working in an industrial setting and the pipe is glued to the cement floor. The original closet flange is gone. The one that replaced it is broken and was sitting on top. And the other one I'm installing is also sitting on top. And I'm wondering how to seal it to the floor.
The reason your Tapcons (or whatever anchors you used) were snapping is because you didn’t vacuum the dust out of the holes you drilled for them. You had the vac right there. You should have used it.
It's easy actually. Once you remove the lead and remove the old flange, get the cast iron flange that you can twist on to your pipe.. they sell it at home depot
Roger, have you tried the "better than wax" toilet gaskets? They're awesome, and come with shim pieces for above, even with, or below floor applications. Maybe you could do a review on them in a future video! Made by fluidmaster
Okay so what about removing a flange on the second story. There is no concrete to stop you from cracking PVC with a chisel. Just open floor space. And the client does not want to open the ceiling to repipe the drain.
i dunno man i just don't see how there is no way that the exterior pipe is NOT going to recieve some kind of damage. even if minor. isn't the inside flange pipe glued in with that pvc flux stuff that makes it super tight.?
"got it anchored down"?? the screws never tightened up, at least 2 of the ones you showed, and the focus is really bad. Other than that, thanks. Your vid got to the point very well.
Enjoyed the info and clear explanation, but damn, that barely audible music track is distracting when I'm trying to pay attention to the narration. I kept taking off my headphones to see where the noise was coming from...
Im all for DYI, and this video was excellent. It also showed me that I would 100% hire someone to do this for me, due to my abilty of screwing things up and making them worse than they originally are.
Maybe that's because you keep hiring people... Those "someones" often do a wrong thing, especially where it's invisible.
@@weekendwarrior3420 Meh, I do enough stuff to repair and maintain on my house and cars. And what used to be my camping trailer, quad, 2 ride on lawn mowers, a rough cut mower, and hauling water for my acreage, See, theres only so many hours in a day, and a guy CANT know it all, and as well, have time to do it all. Unless all you want to do in your spare time is work.
Agreed. A highly recommended tradesman can be a bargain even if he isn't cheap.
@@virgil3241my dad knows it all and knows everything.
He did also miss out on all of our childhoods, never went to practices or competitions even my bro going to State. You can’t have it all.
No one cares
Man I wish I had 1/2 the knowledge you have. Plumbing by far is the most thankless job but I am sure glad you are around to make it feel good again!
You too can have the knowledge...I got into plumbing not knowing ANYTHING about it...we learn as we go
Thank you for a most helpful tutorial video. I was able to remove the incredibly intimidating flange without calling a plumber. Saved me at least $200. Thank you very much!
Great job!
“At least” is correct lol.
Aloha, I use Set Rite toilet flange extensions as a shim under the glue on flange. It brings it up to the right height and you can drill through to securely set the flange with tapcons. It’s much faster than than any cement product. Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work.
Thats a good way of doing it! Thanks for watching
thanks for the tip I have a toilet I may need this on! 🎉🎉🎉
I can tell from your post that you haven't bought any in a long time since that name was retired and Oately sells them
@@davo912 Oatey® Set-Rite® Toilet Flange Extension Kits. What else are they called?
@@robgausepohl7681 Did you flunk reading class the same way the guy who made this video forgot the glue?
By far my LEAST favorite repair! I’ve always preferred/enjoyed new construction, but service and repair is a craft in its own league. It’s like a wholly different skill set. It’s always something! Especially in Bakersfield you see a lot of hokie pokie home repairs and installations.. like Arizona bends glued under slabs with pipe dope… sheeez! Now you have to address that and explain to the homeowner they got screwed… not for me man. Hats off and thank you to all the service and repair tradesmen; you guys are genuine craftsmen. I love the channel, Roger! It’s great to see a man taking pride in his craft.
you know you're going to have a long day when you pull a toilet up and you see a broken flange in a slab floor. better have some inside-cutters! oh, and heaven help you if they installed the plumbing fitting-tight. in that case, you better have a sharp saw and a lot of patience. and you don't need a wetvac to empty the toilet, a few hard pumps with a good plunger will do the trick to empty the toilet trap
What? This job only took 8 minutes and 12 seconds
@@kingokafor6215 A speed run when you already know what to expect is a bit different than walking into an unknown. I would be very happy to see you lift an old toilet, replace the flange, and set the new toilet in under ten minutes.
Clearly, you are not a plumber.
@@brrrayday I've been one for the last 15yrs, clearly you are not someone who understands sarcasm
A plunger will never get all the water out. Better off vacuuming it out when your going to be moving it around a customer's house.
@@brrrayday i’m a plumber and resetting a toilet with a broken flange on a slab, if you’re savvy, takes about an hour. Not really a day ruiner unless you’re inexperienced.
So different to the European installations, we use 90mm PVC pipe, then there is a 90 to 110 mm adapter, on that opening we install a toilet rubber connector that fits snuggly in that 110mm opening where the porcelain will also fit snuggly in that rubber connector. Also out toilets have less water on the bowl but has a larger opening so they very rarely clog. American toilets use a siphonic discharge system so they have narrow discharge paths while European use a washdown system where water pushes everything out.
Which country are UK? I made the same comment as yourself. A non professional can change a UK toilet without any great difficulty. I would be daunted by the US design.
@@MariePrive Portugal
I'm a floor guy by trade, plumber by obligation! This videos actually very helpful. Let's me know im doing the right thing by involving plumbers to do this part. Thank you..will definitely continue to pass that part of the job to you profesional plumbers! 🎉
It is nice to see another professional on the other side of the country repairing a toilet flange in concrete in the same way I do. Makes me feel like I am doing something right lol
So, you really ONLY use primer when installing a pvc flange? Lmao, I would have applied the glue after primer...unless he just decided to skip that step 😮😅
@@timothyjohns1511 He feels glue isn't needed anymore lol
Ok, that answers my question. The primer softens up the PVC enough so that the PVC ‘self-glues’ in place? I’ll try that, but I have ABS to PVC and might opt for a light coating of transition cement. I said ‘Light’ coating.
So in your spare time off work, you watch videos of what you’d be doing at work??
Man you are dedicated
Soldered a lead flange today, and the customer was salty about the price... had to explain to him that it's like doing surgery and precision, and focus is key
Next time tell him he needs to do it. Always let them know about the price ahead of time.
And what on average would something like this cost?
Do you always use those metal ring flanges? I am on the fence with using them. I like the convenience of the spinning piece of metal, but I like solid flange for rigidity. At least the concrete didn't blow out when using the tapcons!! Always a plus!!!
I’ve replaced 5 toilets now and it took me 4 times to finally stop using a sponge to get all the water out. I used a Smart Water bottle with the little spout style mouthpiece to suck up all the water like a bulb syringe and it worked so well! I thought it was ‘Smart’
Wet / dry shop vac. Takes less than a minute
You know that you can buy water solidifying powder that turns the water into gel so that you don't have to suck it up, right?
That wet vac trick is right on!
yea I need to get one of those along with the inflatable drain ball.
Thank you for the information! 👍
Roger? Did you NOT use pvc cement on the flange when fit into the floor, just primer? I didn’t see the cement application step? Is this so that the flange can easily be removed at a later time for repair?
I noticed that too and it confused me. Otherwise an excellent video.
Perfect example why tapcons are garbage. I like how he pretended like he didn't break the second one off and brushed it with his finger like nobody saw that.
I actually prefer the flange level with the finished floor or a touch lower because I’ve ran into a few toilets that didn’t envelop the flange and actually had to be shimmed and caulked around, not that I don’t always caulk but usually the toilet isn’t weighed down onto the flange itself
you may prefer it there without any expert knowledge but the flange is supposed to be ON TOP of the finished floor..
@@davo912 obviously from the lack of realization you don’t seem to have very much experience with toilets these days
@@williammorris3303 You spend too much time sitting on one instead of knowing how to install.. The flanges are meant to sit on top of the finished floor and if you have issues with that it's due to an uneven floor...if you took the time to put a straight edge on the floor you would clearly see that
@@davo912 new construction, on slab restaurant in Pittsburgh PA, I’m not sure how the inspection process in your area is but I assure you if I’m teetering on a flange there it has nothing to do with the floor as opposed to the small throat on some of these new flanges and the long horn on the toilet. But I apologize I tend to make it a point to not argue with someone who seems to have parents that are blood related to each other
@@williammorris3303OH really new contruction slab? That's all we have here is slabs...Earth to willy, the slabs ARE NOT FLAT. Luckily in our area there are no inspections otherwise you would fail.. But there tons of people like you who think they know what is right but actually no nothing..
I'll give you a tip. Don't use an impact driver with those Tapcon cement screws. Use a regular drill. The impact driver is what's causing them to snap.
Noted! Thanks
That and drill your holes with a hammer drill and go about a 1/4” deeper than the screws are long due to debris.
@@troyelder56 You new here?
Agree!
Scoring the pipe ID with the saw was a mistake. Lightly cleaning the ID with some 180 grit sandpaper would provide an adequate gluing surface. Those deep cuts you made ruined the watertight integrity of the drain.
Oh man that was a job well done! I loved it.
This is why I won’t use plastic flanges. I’ll use the plastic stainless steel combo flanges and securely fasten with four screws. Never had one fail. Big Bertha can really put a beating on them plastic flanges when she sits down.
But the metal ones rust and break off overtime the plastic flanges won’t rot
@@979vlogs7 buddy it’s stainless steel. There are thousands of homes still with cast iron pipes and still working fine. Flanges won’t even touch water unless there is a leak which gets fixed anyways. Cast iron pipes touch water upon each flush.
Roger have you ever tried liquilock from oatey? I never pull a toilet without it. It’s a small packet of power that jells the water for a drip less toilet removal. I even pour a little in the tank too to keep all the water jelled. Seriously a great product!
I've seen it at Ferguson, I usually just bring my shop vac and suck the water out of the tank and the bowl
@@solidsnake2085
The great thing about liqulock is that you don’t have a shop vac full of toilet water that you have to deal with. Trust me there’s no going back once you try it.
I like the liquid lock as well. It’s the same thing they put in diapers to hold the liquid.
@augustlindow1162 Dump toliet water down a sink as long as it's clean or dump outside in the grass it's just water.Why waste money if you don't have to maybe if there's no other sinks or toliets .
A Plumber for over 40 years in Illinois. Flange should be flush or no higher than 1/8 with finished floor. Wax seal is designed for sewer gas not waste water. Difference is how long the wax ring lasts and if you want it to leak in the shorter time then expected. Had to put 100+ flange risers in Naperville for new hardwood floors rotting and structural joists repaired. Oatey now makes them simple and easy. Being a licence plumber teaches the basics under codes. Experience, you learn the wrong way, the right way(code), the better way if you don't want any problems in the future. Changed my wax ring and many other 30+ years and they were in still good shape with no leaks because the flange was flush or under 1/4 inch higher than the finished floor. No gray area here. Just do it right the first time and you will have no future issues down the line that created even more issues besides plumbing. Licenced Plumber, renovation, repair, carpentry, roofing, house flipper and always learning on how to do it better. Work with cast iron, abs, copper, brass, PVC, metal piping, cpvc etc. Learned more from how not to do it repair jobs. Suburbs and Chicago. Residence commercial industrial experience.
Mr Plumber with 40 years doing it wrong..FLANGES are SUPPOSED to be ON TOP of the finished floor..where did you learn plumbing?
Always a pleasure to watch chief. Ive gained a couple more subscribers too since we spoke last!
It really doesnt matter if the flange is flush with the floor or raised a 1/4" above the finished floor. Its very possible to get a 100% sealed toilet either way. Your finished floor being level is important. Also i prefer not to caulk around toilet..for one caulk gets nasty over time and for two if there is a potential leak its better to see it right away. Btw..i'm a tile guy, not a plumber so this is just my experience.
Caulk your toilet dude, it’s code. And if you think the caulk get gross, try under the toilet base with no caulk. Everything needs maintenance, you can’t expect caulk to last forever. If anything leave the back uncaulked..
I literally have to do this right now. Perfect timing !
Lol good luck
Me too. I'm a bit anxious about messing it up.
Hello, Mr. Wakefield. I found your channel after watching an advertisement for this air-plunger-type device. I'll stick to my plunger and, if needed, use baking soda, vinegar, and warm water to clear my drain. I enjoy your videos, and a union plumber friend enjoys your video too. A question for you. California has a drought problem, and now our tank is filled to six liters or 1.6 gallons per flush. Is a Pressure Assisted Flush System worth getting? I have a friend who is a licensed and bonded plumber in California, and I will ask him to add the device if you believe it's worth getting.
Thank you.
Best video I've seen on this operation yet. Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks for this video.
Anyone else notice the cut marks on the old pipe? I wonder if that severely compromises the integrity of the old drain pipe and how to avoid getting those cut marks. I know that if the flange pipe is glued to the old plumbing than its difficult to remove the flange so cutting with a jigsaw seems like the only option.
very good..using purple prime inside the finished house..BY THE WAY MR EXERT>.you forgot to USE THE GLUE hehehe
I noticed this too lol. I am a 3 month plumbers Apprentice hahaha.
I just realized that too. Maybe he used it off camera.
There is always the primer + the glue.
This is exactly how ive always done it , just bought the reed toilet flange reamer . What do you think of those have you tried one yet ?
I haven't used it. Thats a nifty tool! I'll have to try that one
What a PITA! Nice, thorough job Man! 👍
Thanks 👍
Roger you need to learn what a rotary hammer drill when doing your tap con holes. You’re killing yourself with that garbage dewalt.. 😂 j/k
But despite that you are still the man and appreciate your vids.
Great video and very professional, but at 1:50 I promise I thought he said get the wet back in here. It wasn't until I heard the vacuum spin up that I realized what he meant.
You can also use a Reed fitting saver
Love this. Extremely helpful
Currently redoing the nursery for my church so the ladies have a good place to come out and nurse their babies and hang out during the service. Everything has gone flawlessly but there’s one little wing with a bathroom and they wanted the toilet replaced. After the flooring I figured another five min to drop a new toilet in there and then I happened upon a completely rotted out flange and I’ve never dealt with that before
Thank you very much for your video - it really helped me
Nice video. Good channel. I like you’re approach to teaching and showing.
If you can fix one thing, I’ll watch the rest of the channel. Your voice is your tool and just like the other tools you have, Use the contractor grade…the most powerful you can handle.
The only sound i hear is either your voice, or a tool working. Edit down the tools to match voice so the overall output is the same.
Thanks for the tip
So what did you do about the broken screw/anchor ? And what or how is that going to affect the toilet seal. Also what kind of seal did you use on this toilet being the flange set at least a 1/4 " below the floor?
Great video. Thank you.
I prefer the higher toilet as well, but in a smaller bathroom an elongated bowl may take up need leg room, so I'll go with rounded fronts.
That broken screw.. any tips on extracting that?
Aside from being extremely careful, is there a trick or a recommended blade for the sawzall or a different tool to make an notch on the interior pipe to remove the flange? Ive done it before and make a nick on the exterior pipe and not my proudest moment, used extra abs glue and tested the hell out of it to make sure it wouldnt leak. It worked, but I would like to avoid that for any future repairs
Can probably Google internal cutter or internal saw
The compact reciprocating saws with and appropriate length bi metal blade has been my go to for removing solvent welded joints, and also for removing drains from tub shoes. The compact size makes it much more manageable. Biggest thing is patience, at least from my experience.
If you feel like taking your time just use a good old hand powered hackzall, that's what I do so I don't ruin the exterior pipe. Better to be safe than sorry. Plus there's no way to see if it's leaking in the slab after you set it unless the line is completely backed up.
Its not often i need to use this method, but ive put a mark on the blade with a sharpie almost equal to the wall thickness of the pipe and as you said, just take your time. the abs / pvc will tend to give way even if its not fully cut,
remember. you cant uncut it.
A quick bit of any type of liquid nail under and around the flange helps with stability and sealing down tap cons. Trust me.
What if the flange surrounds the pvc pipe below and not how it is in the video?
Once the old flange is removed, just buy either type of flange whether its the insert type (preferred because it reduces possibility of water leakage), or the same on to replace.
It would be nice if toilet makers would build these with a long drain neck that fits inside of the flange a few inches. This would save issues with it leaking.
Joist is a better contractor app!!😊
Sheeet just get out ur map gas and carefully warm up the old pvc flange make 2 little cuts to take a chunk out of the pvc flange then grab ur channel locks and twist while slower warming it up. Worked for me the old flange will peel right out
how to ensure not damage the old pipe when cutting off flange body . ?
Can you offer a toilet recommendation? I'm looking to replace my toiler and I too like the taller elongated toilets.
How much are you wanting to spend? I have a Kohler and a Toto and an American Standard…they are all great in different ways…I’d stay away from Glacier Bay and similar cheap box store toilets
@@RogerWakefield Thank you! I won't be replacing my toilet for another few months, but I'm looking spend no more than $500 on the toilet itself.
I don't know didlysquat about toilet quality, but I like the idea of a water efficient model with a comfortable build, elongated and tall, that I can add a Toto Washlet to in the future.
Thanks!
You bet!
what is the stuff you pump ?
When a broken flange turns into a broken double sanity tee for back to back wall mount toilets... Then your having real fun.
Ask your government why you cant have European style waste plumbling.
@@MariePrive are you talking about the really weird toilet traps?
@@jamescarter6318 Syandard European fitting where the waste connects horizontally to an upright waste pipe.
@@MariePrive I can see that being less likely to break for sure. They are not as aesthetically pleasing in my opinion. It could be that I'm not used to them though. How are back to back toilets plumbed? Do they share a sanitary sweeping Y fitting?
@@jamescarter6318 they attach via a Y fitting...very easily and it is all hidden at the back. Like what else would you put behind a toilet so aesthetically hidden
I just installed a new Horow toilet today. I had replaced the flange earlier and chose to put it on top of the new tile. Guess what, toilet rocks. I made a little shim so it's ok but now regretting not tiling around the flange. And this is the type with the stainless ring, which is a little thinner. So in my case the flange should have been flush or only maybe and eighth higher than the finished floor.
your toilet rocks due to the bad tile job
@@davo912 No, flange is too high
I think that may be the first mistake, you are assuming that the floor and top of that pipe is level all the way before installing the flange. I had a plumber make that mistake and my flange is not level in either direction and I have leaking issues.
Roger was the original flange installed by somebody from one of the HGTV shows? That was all bad 😂
do you still offer plumbing services in Texas
I don’t. I sold my plumbing company about 2-2 1/2 years ago
If that new flange is solvent-welded in, how the hell do you replace it when the ring rusts out for the next install? Am I missing something? How is it that the old one came out at all?
Please include the pvc adhesive in the description.
I just replaced a toilet and noticed the flange was bent and was raised at two points. I tried to hammer the high points down. Got the toilet in but now i hear a noise when moving my body. So my question is that so i really have to take it out like you do hers or can u just replace the flange?
Great video, what is the customary bill in Dallas for that "exact" job.
Depends on the company...but this is in my house so..it cost however much the flange cost
Are flange repair kits worth it?
Scoring and peeling one part of the pvc components while not digging into the other pvc part, was that hard to do?
He definitely failed. The pipe had score lines in it. I would like to know how he sealed that, because PVC cement will shrink and leave those channels open for sewer gasses to escape.
My pipe that goes into the floor is iron. And my flange is completely gone I believe. What do I need to do or get. I pulled the toilet to change the wax ring. Both of my studs were broken. Now i have it off there is no PVC whatsoever. What do I need to do now
Hi, I love your videos
Do you ever use an insert repair flange to avoid this? It does choke the opening down a bit, but saves a lot of time and cost if the homeowner does not have a lot of money
I’d definitely use a repair flange
Hey everybody seems like a lot of experience on this thread. Can anyone tell me why when i go to tighten the nut at the end my bolt twists and pulls out of the flange. Seems like a desighn flaw if you ask me thanks!!! Love the vidros they are a lot of help to a novice like me
The flange is designed so that the bolt head can be inserted at one point and then followed a groove to a more narrow area to where the bolt head is tight. So your flange might be turned incorrectly if the bolt is just coming out. Do you have the toilet removed or its still on? Have you tried holding the tip of the bolt and trying to tighten the nut?
So if that flange wasnt cracked how would you just replace the part around the pvc.
Good info in the video. I hope this guy dress as Will Farrel's impersonation of Harry Caray for halloween. The voice similarities are uncanny.
Will Ferrell you say? Lol I get a lot of John C Riley
And use caulking around the base of the toilet, Leave the back open. Toilet will be very secure.
Why no comment whatsoever about that purple primer stuff? What it is, what it does, did you apply some from both of those containers? Thats what I'm tryin to find out..
Purple primer is the same as clear, it's just purple to show you where you have primed the pipe
Yes I think you need to apply both from what I heard. The purple is a coloring / primer to show it has been applied. The clear is the glue.
Please help, just had a new toilet installed but now water seeps out the sides of the base. It's been in about two months and it happens periodically. I assume they put in a new flange. What could be causing it?
it's possible the toilet it not seated all the way causing it to leak. You'll have to pull it and asses the issue further
Check if closet bolts are a little loose. Happens from people sitting on it sometimes. Especially with newly installed toilets that aren’t all the way seated.
@@tytar1037 Thank you
@@RogerWakefield Thanks for being so kind to respond, and quickly. I'm a new subscriber, maybe a month or so and I find your videos interesting and helpful. Unfortunately, the plumbers installed all PVc/ Plastic fittings under the sinks, etc. Everything leaks, and the accordion drain fittings are at weird angles. When you run water in the sink, the toilet bubbles and then if you take a shower, it backs up.
👆🏼👆🏼
I'd like to see you pour a concrete slab that would elevate the toilet 5 inches.
Cool
I can't find a single video to help me. I working in an industrial setting and the pipe is glued to the cement floor.
The original closet flange is gone. The one that replaced it is broken and was sitting on top. And the other one I'm installing is also sitting on top. And I'm wondering how to seal it to the floor.
The reason your Tapcons (or whatever anchors you used) were snapping is because you didn’t vacuum the dust out of the holes you drilled for them. You had the vac right there. You should have used it.
At 5:31 , what is the stuff he lifted up from below? anyone know? thanks
That is a test ball...I put it down the drain to stop the pvc pieces from falling into the drain
WOW WITH TWO BROKEN BOLTS YOU SAID THAT INSTALLED LOL
I use the Reed reamer, takes me about 2 minutes to do that, js
My flange is cast iron... how screwed am i?
Very 😊
It's easy actually. Once you remove the lead and remove the old flange, get the cast iron flange that you can twist on to your pipe.. they sell it at home depot
My flange has no issues other than it was installed 90 degrees with the slots in the front and back for the old toilet
Could you use a heat gun to remove old flange?
you can yes
@@RogerWakefield Good to know. I appreciate it!
hv u ever had a rat come out pipe when fixing toilet i was like wth then again i live in nyc
Broken screws for your toilet install, super pro!
so you can see were you cut many spots on that glue joint. not good
I would have dry fitted that flange before drilling the holes.
Make sure Everything is good before you apply glue. There's no going back.
McGlynn Plain
Roger, have you tried the "better than wax" toilet gaskets? They're awesome, and come with shim pieces for above, even with, or below floor applications. Maybe you could do a review on them in a future video! Made by fluidmaster
I prefer wax, just because the better than wax is rubber, and overtime rubber gets brittle and could cause problems
Why wasn't it replaced with the toilet then a month ago I believe you said 🤔
If you are lucky, like with the picture, you just have to cut it out. Otherwise, You are gonna be breaking out some concrete.
Just cut out the old flange and use a repair flange.
Does this require a permit?
Not in Texas it doesn't
Okay so what about removing a flange on the second story. There is no concrete to stop you from cracking PVC with a chisel. Just open floor space. And the client does not want to open the ceiling to repipe the drain.
i dunno man i just don't see how there is no way that the exterior pipe is NOT going to recieve some kind of damage. even if minor. isn't the inside flange pipe glued in with that pvc flux stuff that makes it super tight.?
"got it anchored down"?? the screws never tightened up, at least 2 of the ones you showed, and the focus is really bad. Other than that, thanks. Your vid got to the point very well.
Plumbing is such a PITA....done this many times
Are you a plumber?
@@RogerWakefield am a G.C. I do the plumbing on most of my kitchen/bath remodels....
Why not use a brass repair flange?
Enjoyed the info and clear explanation, but damn, that barely audible music track is distracting when I'm trying to pay attention to the narration. I kept taking off my headphones to see where the noise was coming from...
Sorry about that
Flanges are glued