Hello, I am assuming that the overhead is live, but you are using reed switches to control the vehicles not unlike the Faller system? I do like the idea of what if, British Trolleys lasted into the late 20th Century or even too now, great fun. Thank's for posting. Trolleybase
Thank you Trollybase! It's been fun to work on this little Essen style kerb guided bus project and I'm hoping to have it finished before the end of March and will then post the final video. I'm also going to include photos of the Leigh guided busway (near Manchester) and point out that we have several KGB systems in the UK too now. Ironically, Essen is planning to pull up the last remaining busway near Kray and put the trams back! I'll also include pictures of some of the key locations which I took on my visit to Essen a few years ago. (Porscheplatz station is now renamed 'Essen Town Hall' - not as iconic, or glamorous!) Yes, that's right - the buses draw their power from live overhead wires - all in 4mm scale! (HO/OO). I understand what you mean by the Faller control system using reed switches, but I also use the overhead wires to cause the buses to stop - there is an isolation at the desired stopping place where one of the overhead wires is dead/energised per the status of a 5v toggle relay. I use reed switches in this video, as you see, but not quite in the same way as the Faller system:- In my original control systems, such as at Porton Victoria Park (where in this video you see the two trolleybuses 'in the street') and also the exhibition layout 'West Porton' (per hyperlink below), the arrival of buses at a particular bus-stop is detected by the overhead wiring, which energises a relay, which in turn sets off the next vehicle in the sequence - thus pausing the bus to load passengers. However, this method of control creates quite a power draw and is also hard wearing on the relays. When I built this 'Essen' loop I thought I'd try a different way: the bus has a magnet glued underneath which activates the reed when it passes over it (although later I realised that the reed is also activated by the tiny steering magnet on the front axle and the magnets in the motor.....Duh!). The reed switch is connected to one set of the coils of a toggle relay which when shifted (toggled/latched) reverses the polarity of the tram line. The next bus stop is not supplied with power so the bus comes to a halt - meantime, due to a diode activated by the power reversal, the tram moves forward through the station and to the end of the track. The tram is also fitted with a magnet, and as it passes over the reed switch at the end of the tram line it activates the toggle relay controlling the trolleybus: The tram comes to a halt due to an 'end of line' diode and power is now passed to the stationary bus via this toggle relay, plus power is disconnected from the next bus stop at the same time. The bus moves forward. Before reaching the next bus-stop it passes over a relay which reverses the polarity of the tram track again: the bus stops at the next stop as there is no power, and the tram moves back along the track in the opposite direction. Simples! The advantage is that the toggle relay is powered only briefly as the bus/tram passes over the reed switch - the rest of the time no power is supplied to the toggle relay. In contrast, the other Porton systems relays are held under power as long as a bus or tram is at a bus-stop, pretty similar to the way the Faller system has a magnetic coil below the road which is powered while holding the reed switch in the vehicle above it open, ie stopped.) I have also used reed relays to activate the accumulator, which is the mechanism holding vehicles at the station: these are activated by the magnets under both the tram and trolley bus so, as at Essen, the station doesn't care whether the next vehicle is a tram or a trolleybus, it holds it at the station for 10 seconds (power disconnected) and sets it free when the accumulator wheel completes its turn (ie restores power). There are a few disadvantages with this reed/toggle method, but it's fairly reliable and for the sake of the power save - going green - I think future automatic control layouts will use this system. This link takes you to my latest model trolleybuses - the Leyland National beni-trolleybus, which I think you may have already seen. These better represent the buses used in Essen during the 1980s experiments - but I was so impressed with the prototype that I build a whole fleet of them! It also shows you that the West Porton layout does not use reed relays for control - non of these buses have magnets fitted. th-cam.com/video/nkt68zhnlaA/w-d-xo.html (Or follow my channel to Porton Leyland National Fleet.)
Very good model. I like it. It rides very stable and smooth. Did you have problems with the contact of the rod and wire? My models don't ride as smoothly and sometimes go missing with wire contact. How did you achieve such stability? Thanks in advance
Hello Michael, I hope you are well. Yes, it took me a while to figure out how to achieve good magnetic contact with the road too! My oldest system, 'VIctoria Park', used plaster to make the roadway and I dug a channel 1mm deep for the steel guide wire. The road surface is very rough, and this causes the magnet and steering rod to jump off the wire. For the West Porton layout I laid the wire down first, then built up cardboard either side of it to a height of 2mm and then covered this with sticky-back plastic to create a smooth road surface. This too sometimes failed, especially on sharp corners. I found that by relaxing (undoing) the screw which holds the guide rod to the axle slightly there is enough 'up and down' movement to allow the guide rod to cope with uneven road surfaces. Make sure the guide rod is completely flat to the road surface. (Sided to side and front to back) If the bus/lorry is not moving smoothly, maybe the guide wire is too close to the surface of the road - - put some selotape down to raise the road surface. If the bus is OK everywhere else, but crashes at the same point all the time, maybe the guide wire is too deep below the road, or there's a break in it. you'll have to dig up the road my fiend!! Good luck with your model making! Здравствуйте, Михаил, надеюсь, у вас все хорошо. Да, мне потребовалось некоторое время, чтобы понять, как добиться хорошего магнитного контакта с дорогой! В моей самой старой системе, «Виктория Парк», для создания проезжей части использовалась гипсовая штукатурка, и я вырыл канал глубиной 1 мм для стальной направляющей проволоки. Поверхность дороги очень неровная, из-за чего магнит и рулевая тяга соскальзывают с провода. Для макета West Porton я сначала уложил провод, затем наклеил картон с обеих сторон на высоту 2 мм, а затем покрыл его липким пластиком, чтобы создать гладкую поверхность дороги. Это тоже иногда подводило, особенно на острых углах. Я обнаружил, что если немного ослабить (отвинтить) винт, который удерживает направляющий стержень на оси, движения «вверх-вниз» достаточно, чтобы направляющий стержень справлялся с неровностями дорожного покрытия. Убедитесь, что направляющий стержень полностью прилегает к поверхности дороги. (Из стороны в сторону и спереди назад) Если автобус/грузовик движется неравномерно, возможно, направляющий трос находится слишком близко к поверхности дороги - - приклейте скотч, чтобы поднять поверхность дороги. Если с автобусом везде все в порядке, но все время глохнет в одном и том же месте, возможно, направляющий провод находится слишком глубоко под дорогой или в нем есть обрыв. тебе придется перекопать дорогу, мой изверг!! Удачи в создании моделей!
@@westporton с магнитным управлением проблем почти нет. Есть проблемы с передачей электричества от контактных проводов в троллейбус. Ваши троллейбусы работают от контактного провода или внутри установлены аккумуляторы/батарея? В мои модели электричество передаётся с контакного провода и передаётся очень плохо.
@@diesel-mk Yes - I too use live contact wires to give power to the motors. This is how real trolleybuses work! I use brass-rod for the overhead lines, copper or brass shoes to collect the electricity from the overhead wires and the trolley poles are brass too. Everything must be clean for good electrical contact : file out your pick up shoes and check the overhead wire for paint or other stuff which will prevent the current from flowing. I also use a 'dust buster' device which sends a 16v ac boost if there is something on the line such as dust or grease. Real trolleybuses use very high voltages, which destroys anything on the wires which prevent electrical flow --- - in a big flash! www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/gaugemaster-gmc-hf1.html Use white spirit to clean the overhead wires and pick up shoes. WD40 or other electrical points cleaner helps too. Да, я тоже использую контактные провода под напряжением для питания двигателей. Так работают настоящие троллейбусы! Я использую латунный стержень для воздушных линий, медные или латунные башмаки для сбора электричества с воздушных проводов, опоры троллейбусов тоже латунные. Все должно быть чистым для обеспечения хорошего электрического контакта: снимите обувь и проверьте контактную проводку на наличие краски или других материалов, препятствующих прохождению тока. Я также использую устройство «пылесборник», которое подает напряжение переменного тока 16 В, если на линии есть что-то, например, пыль или жир. Настоящие троллейбусы используют очень высокое напряжение, которое разрушает все на проводах, которые препятствуют электрическому току --- - в большой вспышке! www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/gaugemaster-gmc-hf1.html Используйте уайт-спирит, чтобы очистить воздушные провода и подобрать обувь. Также помогает WD40 или другой очиститель электрических точек.
Hello, I am assuming that the overhead is live, but you are using reed switches to control the vehicles not unlike the Faller system? I do like the idea of what if, British Trolleys lasted into the late 20th Century or even too now, great fun.
Thank's for posting.
Trolleybase
Thank you Trollybase! It's been fun to work on this little Essen style kerb guided bus project and I'm hoping to have it finished before the end of March and will then post the final video. I'm also going to include photos of the Leigh guided busway (near Manchester) and point out that we have several KGB systems in the UK too now. Ironically, Essen is planning to pull up the last remaining busway near Kray and put the trams back! I'll also include pictures of some of the key locations which I took on my visit to Essen a few years ago. (Porscheplatz station is now renamed 'Essen Town Hall' - not as iconic, or glamorous!)
Yes, that's right - the buses draw their power from live overhead wires - all in 4mm scale! (HO/OO). I understand what you mean by the Faller control system using reed switches, but I also use the overhead wires to cause the buses to stop - there is an isolation at the desired stopping place where one of the overhead wires is dead/energised per the status of a 5v toggle relay. I use reed switches in this video, as you see, but not quite in the same way as the Faller system:- In my original control systems, such as at Porton Victoria Park (where in this video you see the two trolleybuses 'in the street') and also the exhibition layout 'West Porton' (per hyperlink below), the arrival of buses at a particular bus-stop is detected by the overhead wiring, which energises a relay, which in turn sets off the next vehicle in the sequence - thus pausing the bus to load passengers. However, this method of control creates quite a power draw and is also hard wearing on the relays. When I built this 'Essen' loop I thought I'd try a different way: the bus has a magnet glued underneath which activates the reed when it passes over it (although later I realised that the reed is also activated by the tiny steering magnet on the front axle and the magnets in the motor.....Duh!). The reed switch is connected to one set of the coils of a toggle relay which when shifted (toggled/latched) reverses the polarity of the tram line. The next bus stop is not supplied with power so the bus comes to a halt - meantime, due to a diode activated by the power reversal, the tram moves forward through the station and to the end of the track. The tram is also fitted with a magnet, and as it passes over the reed switch at the end of the tram line it activates the toggle relay controlling the trolleybus: The tram comes to a halt due to an 'end of line' diode and power is now passed to the stationary bus via this toggle relay, plus power is disconnected from the next bus stop at the same time. The bus moves forward. Before reaching the next bus-stop it passes over a relay which reverses the polarity of the tram track again: the bus stops at the next stop as there is no power, and the tram moves back along the track in the opposite direction. Simples! The advantage is that the toggle relay is powered only briefly as the bus/tram passes over the reed switch - the rest of the time no power is supplied to the toggle relay. In contrast, the other Porton systems relays are held under power as long as a bus or tram is at a bus-stop, pretty similar to the way the Faller system has a magnetic coil below the road which is powered while holding the reed switch in the vehicle above it open, ie stopped.) I have also used reed relays to activate the accumulator, which is the mechanism holding vehicles at the station: these are activated by the magnets under both the tram and trolley bus so, as at Essen, the station doesn't care whether the next vehicle is a tram or a trolleybus, it holds it at the station for 10 seconds (power disconnected) and sets it free when the accumulator wheel completes its turn (ie restores power). There are a few disadvantages with this reed/toggle method, but it's fairly reliable and for the sake of the power save - going green - I think future automatic control layouts will use this system.
This link takes you to my latest model trolleybuses - the Leyland National beni-trolleybus, which I think you may have already seen. These better represent the buses used in Essen during the 1980s experiments - but I was so impressed with the prototype that I build a whole fleet of them! It also shows you that the West Porton layout does not use reed relays for control - non of these buses have magnets fitted. th-cam.com/video/nkt68zhnlaA/w-d-xo.html (Or follow my channel to Porton Leyland National Fleet.)
Very good model. I like it. It rides very stable and smooth. Did you have problems with the contact of the rod and wire? My models don't ride as smoothly and sometimes go missing with wire contact. How did you achieve such stability? Thanks in advance
Hello Michael, I hope you are well. Yes, it took me a while to figure out how to achieve good magnetic contact with the road too! My oldest system, 'VIctoria Park', used plaster to make the roadway and I dug a channel 1mm deep for the steel guide wire. The road surface is very rough, and this causes the magnet and steering rod to jump off the wire. For the West Porton layout I laid the wire down first, then built up cardboard either side of it to a height of 2mm and then covered this with sticky-back plastic to create a smooth road surface. This too sometimes failed, especially on sharp corners. I found that by relaxing (undoing) the screw which holds the guide rod to the axle slightly there is enough 'up and down' movement to allow the guide rod to cope with uneven road surfaces. Make sure the guide rod is completely flat to the road surface. (Sided to side and front to back) If the bus/lorry is not moving smoothly, maybe the guide wire is too close to the surface of the road - - put some selotape down to raise the road surface. If the bus is OK everywhere else, but crashes at the same point all the time, maybe the guide wire is too deep below the road, or there's a break in it. you'll have to dig up the road my fiend!!
Good luck with your model making!
Здравствуйте, Михаил, надеюсь, у вас все хорошо. Да, мне потребовалось некоторое время, чтобы понять, как добиться хорошего магнитного контакта с дорогой! В моей самой старой системе, «Виктория Парк», для создания проезжей части использовалась гипсовая штукатурка, и я вырыл канал глубиной 1 мм для стальной направляющей проволоки. Поверхность дороги очень неровная, из-за чего магнит и рулевая тяга соскальзывают с провода. Для макета West Porton я сначала уложил провод, затем наклеил картон с обеих сторон на высоту 2 мм, а затем покрыл его липким пластиком, чтобы создать гладкую поверхность дороги. Это тоже иногда подводило, особенно на острых углах. Я обнаружил, что если немного ослабить (отвинтить) винт, который удерживает направляющий стержень на оси, движения «вверх-вниз» достаточно, чтобы направляющий стержень справлялся с неровностями дорожного покрытия. Убедитесь, что направляющий стержень полностью прилегает к поверхности дороги. (Из стороны в сторону и спереди назад) Если автобус/грузовик движется неравномерно, возможно, направляющий трос находится слишком близко к поверхности дороги - - приклейте скотч, чтобы поднять поверхность дороги. Если с автобусом везде все в порядке, но все время глохнет в одном и том же месте, возможно, направляющий провод находится слишком глубоко под дорогой или в нем есть обрыв. тебе придется перекопать дорогу, мой изверг!!
Удачи в создании моделей!
@@westporton с магнитным управлением проблем почти нет. Есть проблемы с передачей электричества от контактных проводов в троллейбус. Ваши троллейбусы работают от контактного провода или внутри установлены аккумуляторы/батарея? В мои модели электричество передаётся с контакного провода и передаётся очень плохо.
@@diesel-mk Yes - I too use live contact wires to give power to the motors. This is how real trolleybuses work! I use brass-rod for the overhead lines, copper or brass shoes to collect the electricity from the overhead wires and the trolley poles are brass too. Everything must be clean for good electrical contact : file out your pick up shoes and check the overhead wire for paint or other stuff which will prevent the current from flowing. I also use a 'dust buster' device which sends a 16v ac boost if there is something on the line such as dust or grease. Real trolleybuses use very high voltages, which destroys anything on the wires which prevent electrical flow --- - in a big flash! www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/gaugemaster-gmc-hf1.html
Use white spirit to clean the overhead wires and pick up shoes. WD40 or other electrical points cleaner helps too.
Да, я тоже использую контактные провода под напряжением для питания двигателей. Так работают настоящие троллейбусы! Я использую латунный стержень для воздушных линий, медные или латунные башмаки для сбора электричества с воздушных проводов, опоры троллейбусов тоже латунные. Все должно быть чистым для обеспечения хорошего электрического контакта: снимите обувь и проверьте контактную проводку на наличие краски или других материалов, препятствующих прохождению тока. Я также использую устройство «пылесборник», которое подает напряжение переменного тока 16 В, если на линии есть что-то, например, пыль или жир. Настоящие троллейбусы используют очень высокое напряжение, которое разрушает все на проводах, которые препятствуют электрическому току --- - в большой вспышке! www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/gaugemaster-gmc-hf1.html
Используйте уайт-спирит, чтобы очистить воздушные провода и подобрать обувь. Также помогает WD40 или другой очиститель электрических точек.