Very nice! I got one fully serviced with really low hours from Pat years ago. I tested it out once I got it and it's been in storage since. This motivated me to finally bust it out! Awesome video as always 👍
These are great monitors and first came out in 1995. A 21xxxxx serial number (rather than 20xxxxx) denotes a revision and means there was a change in production (improvements and updates to certain parts). The jittering menu is because it relies on having an input signal present for sync (or a channel with the internal pattern selected) but indeed, bad capacitors on the E board can cause a subtle vertical jitter. I believe tubes with the optical PET film (anti glare) came out in 2003, and thankfully, easier to remove than the JVCs spray on anti glare !
The trick I've found is to pull plastic like that from one side and then the other side all the way down - see-saw style. The residue comes off with alcohol or goo-gone.
@6:30 I only just noticed the music in the background as you brought out the knife and started your Crocodile Dundee impersonation, perfect timing, I lost it XD. As an Aussie I thought your accent, was great, well, not accurate, but funny and not painful to hear, about as good as my American.
Great showcase of that monitor steve, thanks. It would be worth mentioning (IMHO) that 14" BVMs with built in side controls have a weakness: if you loose the content of the SRAM (e.g. the 3V battery backup dies) the monitor will think it's unit without built-in controls and it's side buttons will not be mapped properly. For example pressing "7" will trigger a "1" and "3" triggers "enter". If you have one of those monitors, get yourself an 8 bit attribute SRAM pcmcia card and do a system backup from the maintenance menu. Oh did I mention you would also loose the serial number and the number of hours?
@@RetroTechUSA it's all stored in the SRAM unfortunately. At least in series F and G BVMs not sure about the other series. There is an SMD capacitor to backup the lithium cell when the battery is being replaced. If that cap is bad and/or you leave the battery out for too long you will definitely lose the serial number, number of hours and model number and all other settings. Don't ask me how I know ;). I've been told that back in the days when that happened the ISR board had to be sent back to Sony for a "service" when that happened.
If the scratches on the foil are not to deep you can actually polish it with a bit of toothpaste (which is a very light abrasive) and a piece of cloth. I managed to save the screen (and foil) of an M7MDE this way.
I have one of these, and I want to play my modern games on it. the problem is whenever I hook up something with an hdmi converter the picture appears grayscale. Do you know of any converters that put out the proper signal so it keeps its full color? Thanks in advance!
I have one just collecting dust. I believe the psu is out as the monitor will not even power on. The one I own so the hours are super low. Would definitely like to restore it eventually.
If it has 800 lines of resolution why does it only support 480 lines max? What is it doing with all those extra lines? I think I am failing to understand something.
That’s how you get scanlines. When the resolution of the content you’re viewing does not require all the lines that your set possesses, scanlines happen.
Oh hey it's Martin! I had sync issues with a D14 in the past. I talked with you about it because I use your BKM RGB clone card. Sync strippers and level adjustments did not help. The solution (unverified but I'm confident) is using a timebase corrector (TBC). The D14 doesn't have "VCR mode" but what that really means is that it doesn't have a lot of tolerance on the sync signal. PS2 and raspberry pis don't work, among others I'm sure. TBCs are expensive specialty items, but perform a simple operation. I don't know of a cheap solution yet.
@@willis936 Hey yes its me :D Yeah the D9/D14 and A-series are some finicky beasts... I dunno whats up with their sync circuits, but its interesting that the D9/D14 exhibit the same sync issues as the A series with the original BKM-68X, but in my 68X alternative, they're gone, and I did basically nothing to combat it. I therefore assume its an issue in the monitors' sync separation circuit or smth, when the signals are off spec. A TBC might fix it, no clue, but I'd love to hear your results :)
@@RetroTechUSA oh man, really? That one looked kinda tough in itself. A bit worried about the residue issue tho... Have anyone tried using Xylene to remove such residue?
Great video once again, Steve! Quick question, I have the D14H5U variant of this model, except I can't access any of the built-in test patterns. I can't seem to find any info on them in the service manual, and following your instructions in this video just switches to channel 9, and then channel 8. Any idea what I'm missing? Thanks for all the great informative content!
Hi, it's been 2 years since your comment but I decided to help. You don't have to just click 95 or 96 on the number pad since it will just switch to channel 9 or 8, you have to click instead 098 with a zero, have a good day
Does it cause damage to a Sony BVM if the 75 ohm BNC terminators are not attached? I recently got my first BVM and did not know that it was supposed to have the terminators on it, and when I turned it on there is purple wavy lines that stay there for a good 5-10 minutes until they go away on their own. Did I permanently damage the monitor by not having them on there? It also has over 100k hours and also the picture looks sorta bright, the black levels are grey-ish rather than solid black of other CRTs that I have.
I've recently became an owner of this beautiful piece I'm fairly new to crt monitors and I've been wondering do these monitors produce sound? And if not how can I get sound while playing?
like i said before i have the 15G5 and i absolutely love it, one thing i did notice is that my unit turns itself on when i flip the power switch, is that normal? (edit nvm this is just a setting in the menu)
What is that slot on the near bottom left side of the monitor? It’s for memory cards; any memory cards designed for this monitor still being made? Or compatible ones?
I would avoid removing the anti-glare film unless you only use the tube in a very dark room. The anti-glare film makes the black levels somewhat better in a moderately-lit to brightly-lit room.
You'd be surprised. Some of these monitors are left on 24/7 for many years. But I agree it does seems a bit unrealistically high! My monitor's hour count shows 65535, which is 2^16-1, so I'm assuming it hit the 16-bit integer limit and the hour count is actually even higher!
One think I've never been sure about with BVM times is whether it's counting just the time with the tube physically on, or if it's including the entire time on "standby mode" too. If it includes standby time then it's not unreasonable, seeing as there's no way to turn this off except the physical flip switch on the back
I've seen a few monitors with this many hours. If it was left on all the time, then that makes sense. It was made in the 90's and then had a new tube installed about 8 years later.
This is a really gorgeous CRT. Please check for chapters and links in the description.
Sprayaway pshhh pshhhh AHHHHHHHH FAUGHK ...THE TV imploded
Very nice! I got one fully serviced with really low hours from Pat years ago. I tested it out once I got it and it's been in storage since. This motivated me to finally bust it out! Awesome video as always 👍
Thanks and good move getting Pat to service it. These are great CRTs
These are great monitors and first came out in 1995. A 21xxxxx serial number (rather than 20xxxxx) denotes a revision and means there was a change in production (improvements and updates to certain parts). The jittering menu is because it relies on having an input signal present for sync (or a channel with the internal pattern selected) but indeed, bad capacitors on the E board can cause a subtle vertical jitter.
I believe tubes with the optical PET film (anti glare) came out in 2003, and thankfully, easier to remove than the JVCs spray on anti glare !
I just picked one of these up today, but how did you connect the component cables to it? and where did you get the resistors?
The trick I've found is to pull plastic like that from one side and then the other side all the way down - see-saw style. The residue comes off with alcohol or goo-gone.
@6:30 I only just noticed the music in the background as you brought out the knife and started your Crocodile Dundee impersonation, perfect timing, I lost it XD.
As an Aussie I thought your accent, was great, well, not accurate, but funny and not painful to hear, about as good as my American.
This gives me Retro Vibes and a inclination to play some super Mario world SNES RGB.
Great showcase of that monitor steve, thanks.
It would be worth mentioning (IMHO) that 14" BVMs with built in side controls have a weakness: if you loose the content of the SRAM (e.g. the 3V battery backup dies) the monitor will think it's unit without built-in controls and it's side buttons will not be mapped properly. For example pressing "7" will trigger a "1" and "3" triggers "enter".
If you have one of those monitors, get yourself an 8 bit attribute SRAM pcmcia card and do a system backup from the maintenance menu.
Oh did I mention you would also loose the serial number and the number of hours?
Thanks, The BVM's information is stored on the ISR board. That does have a battery, but I don't think the hours reset if the battery dies.
@@RetroTechUSA it's all stored in the SRAM unfortunately. At least in series F and G BVMs not sure about the other series. There is an SMD capacitor to backup the lithium cell when the battery is being replaced. If that cap is bad and/or you leave the battery out for too long you will definitely lose the serial number, number of hours and model number and all other settings. Don't ask me how I know ;).
I've been told that back in the days when that happened the ISR board had to be sent back to Sony for a "service" when that happened.
If the scratches on the foil are not to deep you can actually polish it with a bit of toothpaste (which is a very light abrasive) and a piece of cloth. I managed to save the screen (and foil) of an M7MDE this way.
Love my OSSC but I'd love to own one of these one day or just a modified crt with a scart input
Just put my notifications on!
The title says it all for sure Steve. So true. 8^)
Anthony..
I have one of these, and I want to play my modern games on it. the problem is whenever I hook up something with an hdmi converter the picture appears grayscale. Do you know of any converters that put out the proper signal so it keeps its full color? Thanks in advance!
I have one just collecting dust. I believe the psu is out as the monitor will not even power on. The one I own so the hours are super low. Would definitely like to restore it eventually.
The military submarine wants there monitor back lol
I have a chance to pick one of these up for cheap but it doesn't power on, is it worth it? Seller says it's a power supply issue....
Could you do a video on hooking up a PC to a pvm/bvm that is only capable of 240p/480i?
Steve, lets talk about those pcmcia cards and firmwares on one episode. Gives me a good excuse to order one of those cards :D
How does the 14F5U compare to the 14L5?
If it has 800 lines of resolution why does it only support 480 lines max? What is it doing with all those extra lines? I think I am failing to understand something.
That’s how you get scanlines. When the resolution of the content you’re viewing does not require all the lines that your set possesses, scanlines happen.
If that's the reason why, it makes me wonder why there isn't the option to turn scanlines off. Maybe it wouldn't be feasible to have such a feature.
Is it possible to get a replacement screen protector? Also, can you please link the turntable you are using. Thanks!
I have a BVM-14E5U that I love. I assume the menus are very similar between the two models
Oh yeah, they should be pretty close to exact.
Any chance you could help me out with some convergence issues on mine?
Nice! I need to try to remove the antiglare, from an A20F1 I got that has some ugly scratches in it.
Oh hey it's Martin!
I had sync issues with a D14 in the past. I talked with you about it because I use your BKM RGB clone card. Sync strippers and level adjustments did not help. The solution (unverified but I'm confident) is using a timebase corrector (TBC). The D14 doesn't have "VCR mode" but what that really means is that it doesn't have a lot of tolerance on the sync signal. PS2 and raspberry pis don't work, among others I'm sure. TBCs are expensive specialty items, but perform a simple operation. I don't know of a cheap solution yet.
@@willis936 Hey yes its me :D Yeah the D9/D14 and A-series are some finicky beasts... I dunno whats up with their sync circuits, but its interesting that the D9/D14 exhibit the same sync issues as the A series with the original BKM-68X, but in my 68X alternative, they're gone, and I did basically nothing to combat it. I therefore assume its an issue in the monitors' sync separation circuit or smth, when the signals are off spec. A TBC might fix it, no clue, but I'd love to hear your results :)
Good luck, the bigger ones are a little tougher.
@@RetroTechUSA oh man, really? That one looked kinda tough in itself. A bit worried about the residue issue tho... Have anyone tried using Xylene to remove such residue?
Great video once again, Steve! Quick question, I have the D14H5U variant of this model, except I can't access any of the built-in test patterns. I can't seem to find any info on them in the service manual, and following your instructions in this video just switches to channel 9, and then channel 8. Any idea what I'm missing? Thanks for all the great informative content!
Hi, it's been 2 years since your comment but I decided to help.
You don't have to just click 95 or 96 on the number pad since it will just switch to channel 9 or 8, you have to click instead 098 with a zero, have a good day
How would I go about getting service on my Sony PVM 14" monitor?
Does it cause damage to a Sony BVM if the 75 ohm BNC terminators are not attached? I recently got my first BVM and did not know that it was supposed to have the terminators on it, and when I turned it on there is purple wavy lines that stay there for a good 5-10 minutes until they go away on their own. Did I permanently damage the monitor by not having them on there? It also has over 100k hours and also the picture looks sorta bright, the black levels are grey-ish rather than solid black of other CRTs that I have.
I've recently became an owner of this beautiful piece
I'm fairly new to crt monitors and I've been wondering do these monitors produce sound? And if not how can I get sound while playing?
I would just connect external speakers. If you're lucky your particular set might have 1 speaker and mono sound.
like i said before i have the 15G5 and i absolutely love it, one thing i did notice is that my unit turns itself on when i flip the power switch, is that normal?
(edit nvm this is just a setting in the menu)
What is that slot on the near bottom left side of the monitor? It’s for memory cards; any memory cards designed for this monitor still being made? Or compatible ones?
No, the memory cards are a pain. Only SRAM compatable.
I Have one in my desk with dead battery...Anyone have a SRAM backup of this model?
What did people do to CRTs?
I don't have any scratches on my 20M2U, but I feel as I should remove it to give me a better picture quality? Or it doesn't matter?
I would avoid removing the anti-glare film unless you only use the tube in a very dark room. The anti-glare film makes the black levels somewhat better in a moderately-lit to brightly-lit room.
When was this manufactured?
Late 1990's
Please adjust the geometry.
are us shure it doesnt support 480p the f1 does 480p
NOICE KNOIFE
YUMMY YUMMY, thank YOU DADDY
These hours can not be correct. 120.000hours : 24hours = 5000 days : 365 days (one year) = 13.69 years
You'd be surprised. Some of these monitors are left on 24/7 for many years. But I agree it does seems a bit unrealistically high! My monitor's hour count shows 65535, which is 2^16-1, so I'm assuming it hit the 16-bit integer limit and the hour count is actually even higher!
One think I've never been sure about with BVM times is whether it's counting just the time with the tube physically on, or if it's including the entire time on "standby mode" too. If it includes standby time then it's not unreasonable, seeing as there's no way to turn this off except the physical flip switch on the back
I've seen a few monitors with this many hours. If it was left on all the time, then that makes sense. It was made in the 90's and then had a new tube installed about 8 years later.
Do you have an Instagram account?