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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2014
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Last week I did the timing belt on my van, an 80,000 mile service, oil and filter, coolant, water pump, power steering belt, alternator belt, and a new set of glow plugs. The frustrating thing is that it sounds exactly as it did before, because it is just a service, not because something was wrong. Now it should last another 80,000 miles. The glow plugs are worth doing, it is a very fiddly job but it starts much easier now than it did before. This is not a fast job, but if you think can change the alternator or a job like that then give it a go, take your time, and I take no responsibility for any mistakes you make or for any omissions I have made. It took me 8.5 hours to do all the above and to try and record it as I went. A good chunk of that time was checking my work, I would be a lot faster to do it again next time. There are some good guides on the t4 forums. If you take off the front bumper cover it gives a little more space to work in. I say give it a go. The worst that can happen is you have to bring it to the garage anyway. I reckon I saved £400 on the cost of doing it at a vw garage! Best of luck. Please leave a message if you can clarify any of the steps. Please like this video if it is any help to you. All the best!
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Wow...this is some technical stuff. Excellent tutorial! For the record...when you take off the alternator belt you can put a rod (I used a breaker bar) between the alternator and the engine and push the alternator down to relieve the pressure on the self tensioning spring, without using your foot. It's much easier. But, your videos helped me massively....thank you so much! And also for the record, the bolts fixing the alternator belt are M8 20mm 6mm Allen screw bolts with a tensile strength of 12.6.
Thanks for taken the time to make this video. Kept it straight forward and easy to follow. Cheers.
Thanks for taking the time to do/upload this video mate. I am currently doing a restoration on a T4 1.9 ABL that's been stood for 9 years so this is definitely on my agenda!
Good luck buddy! Only another 20 years until they're vintage!
Of all the belts it's the alternator 6 ribbed belt that has let me down, the only breakdown that I have had really. I would do that one first, my van shreds them.
@@bootsowen This van sadly had a runaway... That's where it has laid since. Recently started a bit of a Vlog on it.
Just needs a new Turbo and a few other bits and bobs (think there is a worn out hydraulic lifter as she taps very heavy at the top end) and she'll be back on the road! one of the lowest mileage examples in the country I dare say (95K on a 1999 plate)
Thanks a lot! Very good instructional video! I have exactly the same engine (but it is a continental van) and it was good to see someone taking a video.
+Laszlo Thank you
great vid I'll be attempting mine shortly, this will help alot.
This is the best explanation i could find on youtube thank you.
No worries buddy. When I couldn’t find any instructions online I thought I should make my own. Some then haynes have published a manual on this van. The instructions on the timing belt replacement are limited for a novice like me but the do have all of the torque settings listed which is handy.
O
@@bootsowen aa
Great video
Very useful. Thank You! 😉
oh man, that's awesome, thank's to you I feel confident enough to give it a go !
Go for it Jonas! Set a day aside. ;-)
Nice job 👍🏽
Great video. Im looking at buying a T4 to convert to a camper and this is one of the first thing I will probably do unless the previous owner shows a previous receipt. Only one thing I couldn't understand was why you slackened off the camshaft pulley.
Thanks a Million
You slacken the camshaft pulley so that you can align the timing mark on the crankshaft perfectly with the camshaft. It needs to be spot on. If you left the camshaft pulley tight when you come to tension the belt it would pull the timing out of alignment. So you get it all right and just nip it up at the end.
Ok kewl thanks for the reply keep up the good work:-)
Great vid cheers for uploading
No worries matey.
I have a 95 1.9 it has an aef lump from a skoda in it after the original popped.
To change the cam belt I just lock the fuel pump with a 10mm long socket, remove two pulley wheels for the aux belt, (one is on the end of the crank, the other is the water pump) then the plastic cover.
Then I tippex all the wheels the cam belt is on, making sure to carry the marks onto a tooth. Then loosen the tensioner, then slide the old belt off. Then match up the old belt with the new belt exactly, then transfer the tippex marks onto the new belt. Then offer up the new belt to the marks on the wheels, slide it on. Replace tensioner, water pump if needed, but this can be done anytime as nothing is in the way of it, then just put the cover and pulley wheels back on aux belt. Done. Don't need to time it up or lock the cam.
it sounds good, do you at least turn it over manually before starting it , or do you have absolute confidence in this method?
Great video!
I am going to advance my diesel pump this weekend to sort out a rough idle and smoke.
To get the diesel pump so I can lock it off, is it a case of using a spanner and twisting the bolt on the ends of the cams? My belt will be on, not off.
The reason I like your video so much, is it shows me that the cog on the diesel pump doesn't actually get locked off, its the pump itself - so I'm guessing once the three bolts are loosened, I can slightly rotate the cambs to advance the pump?
Thanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you for making this video.
no problem! I couldn't find any detailed instructions for this engine anywhere so I thought I'd make some myself, I hope it helps you!.
+bootsowen My 1996 1.9D (non turbo) looks very similar to yours but my injection pump pulley only has a center nut its doesn't have the 3 nuts ...will the procedure be the same I wonder ?
+Simon Ball Have a look for the engine code on your vehicle identification plate or on your registration documents, this vans engine code starts with ABL, They made lots of different models, each with little differences. The logic will be the same for each type of timing belt replacement. Have a look for the code and then google it. The answers are out there. For your injector pump there must be some way of locking it at the start, a hole or something, have a look and read up on the internet. The injector pump must be timed to jet out diesel into the injectors at the right time. So either it doesn't need adjustment or there is a different way to do it. If you get the code i wil see if i can figure it out. And a photo or a video would help! Owen
Good tutorial! THANX!
Great video,well presented and easy to understand.am i brave enough to give it a try on my t4? Not sure but at least i have a guide if i do....or at least i know what the mechanic will be doing lol
briggaskin Give it a go, take a day off, take your time. It shouldn't take as long as me if you aren't trying to make a video! Thanks for watching!
Great instructional video. Am i brave enough to do it myself...hmmm maybe ,but at least i understand how its done correctly now.
I would say give it a go, it is much cheaper, and so long as you turn the engine over by hand before you try and start it all should be ok. Follow the instructions. Take your time and save £500 on the VW garage price! Good luck and thanks for the comment.
bootsowen While I've never tackled a cambelt before it looks okay in terms of complexity from your video! my problem with mechanics it always finding that one bolt that refuses to budge somewhere in the process!
Georgie Benson Hi there, I didn't have any of the stuck bolt troubles on this job, it all came apart ok. But I know what you mean! On the other hand, while none were truly stuck, the glow plugs on this van are a beast to remove and get back in! no space! You can't really go wrong on the cambelt if you follow these instructions. Make sure you do not try to start the engine until you have turned it over by hand and tightened everything up! Good luck!
+Georgie Benson I used to think that people were joking, but the only way is to hammer those bolts and deal with the consequences. The job has to get done!
Hello mister and thanks for a awesome video, is it possible to lock the pump when the belt is of? I don’t think my pump is aligned properly..
You have to lock the fuel injector pump before taking the belt off. I can’t see the point in locking the fuel injector pump after taking the belt off. But you don’t need to lock the water pump. I think you are asking about the fuel injection pump.
Excellent video
+T4 Tips & Guides hey! thanks very much. I hope it helps, pass it on. I couldn't find another one for the ABL engine. Good luck!
Hey. Great video! Thank you. Just wondering where you got your camshaft locking tool for the timing? The one with the shims on? I've been trying to find something like that for ages!
Thanks again
I think it is listed in the description, they are on ebay, there are much cheaper versions available. but I posted a more recent version of this video, here I use other tools for the locking kit. You really don't need any of that stuff, have a look at my more recent videos .
@@bootsowen thanks! Will do!
Hi Boots, I had ll the belts done at the garage, but less than 500 miles later the pully that you discribe as the bigend of the engine came off. The bolt sheared off, when doing the belt change would you touch this bolt? I'll try o discrbe it better, to its lower left is the power steering pulley. The mechanic is saying its not his fault. Could I send you a picture?
Hey Kate. The kit that I got came with a new bolt. It has a star head on it. I didn't fit the new one. Mine is still going strong. I think I just forgot to fit it. You can send me a picture if you like. A link is better. When you say all the belts does this include timing belt? My logic would be that if a mechanic touched something and it broke 500 miles later it is their fault but I don't know all the details.
@@bootsowen Do you have any idea how to replace the bolt? I heard that the bolt tends to stretch and should be replaced... Working on my belt replacement and this video is golden! Thank you Boots!
@@tuomomella-aho3664 Hi Tuomo, The bolt is a stretch bolt, when you are replacing it you screw it in, then torque it to the appropriate torque setting, then "stretch" it by turning it an additional amount (1/2 a turn or something like that). So if you take it out then you have to put in a new one because the old one will have already been stretched. But it doesn't stretch by itself. To remove and replace it you have to lock the crankshaft by taking out the starter motor and jamming the flywheel somehow. But if you don't touch it then it should be fine. Mine has had the same one in there for 10 years and approx 100000miles. If you do touch it you need to put in a new one.
Hi could I ask you something about the timing after fitting if its running bad after fitting very hard to start and smoking like bad what have I done wrong
Hi. No idea. I’m not a mechanic. Running on veg oil? Too much oil in sump and knackered catalyst? Maybe you did the timing wrong on the fuel injectors pump. But I don’t know. You don’t say if it is the same make model and variant so I’m just guessing. You also don’t say if you did it or a garage?
Just curious, whats the point of loosening the bolts on the injection pump gear and loosening the cam gear just because of changing the timing belt?
The new and old belts may different because one is new and the old is old. The tension pulley compensates for this but you have to make sure that the various ancillaries are in time with each other so you loosen them before fitting and lock in place then retension and re lock.
Hi Boots, couple of questions, did you remove the big end bolt to remove the bottom pulley, as I'm guessing the lower belt cover cant be removed until that's done. What did you use to hold the crank in position while you undid that bolt? And did you torque it up when replacing it?
johnguy1969 I don’t think I did. You have to take the pulley in front of it off. I don’t remember locking it either. You just keep an eye that it doesn’t move over at the mark on the flywheel. I don’t fuss much with torques. Every time I use the torque wrench I reckon it isn’t enough. Like I say I’m the video: I’m not a mechanic. This van is still running sweet since I did this job.
Thanks for the info Boots, I'm halfway through the job and have undone the 4 allen bolts, the PS pulley came off, but the pulley that drives the alternator is still on, (one sits inside the other) and I'm sure that needs to come off as I cant see a way of getting the lower belt cover off if I don't............ I know what you mean about torques, but I have picked up a cheap one just to ease my conscience :)
johnguy1969 yes. It looks like the pulley that drives the alternator needs to come off. But is it not held on with Allen screws?
Do you have a 1.9 abl engine?
Hiya mate, quick update, yes, its an ABL engine, basically, the 4 allen bolts came out, the pulley that drives the PS pump came off easily enough, but the pulley that drives the alt didn't wanna budge.......but this morning, after plenty of messing about, I managed to work it off, it was just a VERY tight fit on the centre boss (with the star shaped bolt in it), so the lower cover is now off, just awaiting my cam lock kit, and I can sort it. One issue I gave myself.......whilst mistakenly trying to undo the star bolt I turned the crank over and I think it jumped a belt tooth or 2, as the timing mark has disappeared..........but only by a tooth or two, so I'm thinking that once I get the cam locked, FP locked, remove the belt, I should be able to turn the crank slowly till I find the timing mark and get it all tickety boo. Your video is fantastic......even though I managed to drop a few clangers.
Nice. Gives me the courage to tackle mine. Is the van still going?
I sold it a few years ago, but I did the timing belt twice on it and no issues!
hi. I want to replace the crank pulley damper. does it come off if i remove the 4 bolts or i have to remove the centre bolt as well? I removed the 4 bolt and both belts but i couldn't get them off. I didn't want to force it because i'm not sure if the centre bolt has to come off as well. Is damper and steering pump pulley 1 piece or 2 separate? Thanks
I don’t understand what you mean by “pulley damper”.
Pulley damper is built in the pulley which drives the alternator and the water pump. There is another pulley on the top of that which drives the power steering pump. If search "t4 pulley damper" you will see what i mean. Are these pulleys 1 piece or 2? Also do i have to remove the centre bolt as well to remove these? Thanks
Hi there. Short answer is that if it isn’t clear from my video then I haven’t done it. Have you watched the video. Thomas exovcds is another good vw channel. Maybe he can help.
I think you just take the 4 bolts off. try tapping gently with a hammer if it wont move. also, are you sure you have an ABL type engine. i have deleted your other comment as I didn't appreciate it.
Yes, I have an abl 1.9td engine. Sorry about those comments, but i got pissed off because it seemed you didn't even bother to try to help me. Thank you.
Hi did you have to do any more adjustment to the fuelpump after or just turn over and that's it
I didn’t touch the fuel pump in 12 years of owning the van
Thanks for thank that great help
thaks to share!! you know if ti s the same for one 1X engine? thanks
No Idea, all of them are relatively similar but, all have little differences, if you understand the video then you should be ok for this one.
did you have special tools? like special for VW?
I got the special toolkit, it is"Sykes Pickavant VAG Engine Service Timing Kit 077560V2" on ebay. but if i was doing it again I wouldn't bother, it is just a pin that holds one pulley in place, a drill bit of the the correct size would do it, and a flat piece of metal, you can use a file and some shims, you will see these parts in the video. You do need a tool to tension the cambelt, but i think i would make one quite easily using the new tensioner pulley as a guide. Or just buy the kit, it was about £100 used, and I sold it on for the same price.
++bootsowen thanks a lot for bringing me the courage to do it! Your vid is very instructive! One more question thow, could you tip us with the recomended amount of torq to apply to the tensionner bolt, camshaft bolt and injector pomp pulley bolts? (when using that special tool you used) Gooday mate!
Hi there. Glad it helped. No idea on torques. I just gave it as much as I could without stripping it. Difficult to even guess torques on the small tools. It is still going strong 18 months later.
+bootsowen Ok right that tool would only fit the camshaft pulley bolt... So I won't buy it and give it as much torq as "possible" using that 41 spanner to hold the camshaft. You just made me save another 35 euros overhere :)
I 'll give it a go this week, and will mark the krankshaft pulley before removing the belt, in case it moves in the process (guess that wouldn't happen even with plugs removed but still usefull for final checking right?)
So what if, when checking the timing at the end, the mark goes past the normal position? Release the pulleys, turn the engine anti-clockwise to re-aligne the timing mark and tension the pulleys again?
+mat parci if the mark goes past the normal position, like you say, release the pulleys, move the crank shaft back to the mark and do the pensioning process again. It is really very simple, it took me much longer to get the glow plugs out and back in again because of the lack of space. If you are going to do the water pump as well as the cambelt you will have to drain the coolant, that means that the radiator will be empty, so in that case you might as well take it off completely and give yourself a bit of space to work on the plugs. if i was doing it again that is what i would do.
+bootsowen right I get it that way is safe. My neighbourg did it on a golf 3 without releasing any pulley nor opening the camshaft cover, just the tensioner. Marking pulley positions and counting the belt tooths but probably hard to keep in place while positioning the tensioinner.
Actually fighting with the bolts on the crankshaft accessories pulley. Gonna heat them up, hammer the 6mm head in and go at it with an electrical schocking drill. Either comes or goes round and round!
To get the plugs out I removed the injectors copper pipes, that's gonna be a bit of suspense when kicking it!
Thanks a lot man, long life to your T4!
+mat parci Good Luck!
do I replace the water pump without removing the wiring?
Hi , What wiring?
@@bootsowen
can I replace only the water pump?
Yes, but you still have to take off the timing belt.
Why did you need to loosen the camshaft pulley please ?
It should be clear in the video, I used a big spanner with shims on the camshaft lobe, and a ring spanner of the correct size on the pulley nut. then a drift to knock the pulley off the taper shaft. Good luck
You need to loosen it to get the belt on and tension it correctly.
You didn't show how to remove vibration damper, I mean crankshaft pulley.
I didn't take it off!
How?
To remove the cambelt cover, have to remove pulley first.
So for first timers who are wondering what to do. I suggest to spray some wd40 on the centre, and hit it couple times with a hammer. Then wiggle it out.
i dont have a timing mark on fly wheel wtf i do ?
It is in there somewhere, look from a different angle, I couldn't find it the first time I looked, if you don't have this exact engine then it may look different. try looking at it and get a friend to rotate the engine.
@@bootsowen hi this is a video of my t4 runing th-cam.com/video/_7FOj-5ptyc/w-d-xo.html
tell me an opinion is the distribution or the open valve or the pump.
the pump I blocked at the point the camshaft I put it in place and at the flywheel I tried to find a point that seemed that the piston to be up number 1
Verinajs
no problem!
F&#@^ i need to change the crank pulley ....
Why? did you break it?
no.
my mechanic advised me to change the water pump distribution (belt ,
tensioner )and Crankshaft Pulley....