Hey Nile! I used to work as a Materials Engineer in body armor manufacturing, and what you've experimentally found are some of the core principles of the materials science behind high-performance ballistic armor! Towards the end you mention that you could likely make something half the thickness and still stop a 9mm; take a look at the construction of NIJ level II or level IIIA soft armors: what you'll find is that they are *remarkably* thin. Turns out, high tensile strength is pretty much the number one reason that poly-aramids (Kevlar and the like) are such great armor materials. What I think your pressed-wood plates would serve a better function as is as an up-armor for level II or level IIIA soft armors. This is usually done with a ceramic plate that provides the compressive strength to the initial impact zone that the fibrous soft armor is able to absorb as tensile load, but the densified wood could serve as a great substitute! If you want to get really deep into the armor classification side of things, you can also take a look at "back-face deformation" tests that are done to classify/test armors. Drop me an email if you'd like and I can answer any questions! I'm not in the armor space any more but I have a ton of knowledge built up from the time when I was, and I would love to put it to good use somewhere :P Edit: Someone made the great point that my email isn't super obviously available; it's on my channel (or here: timothy.mgregg@gmail.com) if anyone wants to reach out. I can't promise a prompt response, but I'll try! Also someone pointed out I should have said "Level IIIA soft armor" not "Level III", thanks for the correction, I've edited above!
If you fancy revisiting this, try carrying out the first chemical wash step under vacuum. The wood contains lots of air, and the presence of the air within the cells prevents the chemicals penetrating through the whole cross section of the piece (thats why the centre looked dry). When pulling a vacuum, most of that air is removed. The vacuum can then be realased forcing the chemicals deep into the piece. In order to remove the chemicals, you can then place the treated piece under vacuum again to help draw out excess chemicals before washing. This is basically how they pressure treat timber with wood preservatives.
I was using this as an ASMR while I was studying. And while I was spacing out a bit I heard you saying some pressing machine was almost thirty six thousand dollars. Bro I was horrified. Almost depressed for half a minute, until I saw the price again. Thank you for the great content.
It’s what makes me truly appreciate his videos when they come out because they are years of work just for internet strangers, but because he is passionate about his subject the videos are always amazing.
So here's the thing. This is something you will see with weaves like carbon fiber or kevlar where a single layer will splinter, a double perpendicular will hold. You could significantly improve this by using thinner pieces and just stacking a bunch of them together because the impact has to keep changing direction instead of just cleaving through lines that line up behind it. So if you ever want to revisit this project, take a bunch of thin boards (the thinner the better, like you can break it by looking at it wrong thin), treat them all, stack them in your press going horizontal, vertical, horizontal, vertical, squish them all together, cook them, and try shooting it. Squish them all together to basically make them stick together on force alone. L3 plates are like 1.5 inch thick which is basically what you should be aiming for as the higher bound on thickness, and who knows, maybe it'll work. Another thing you should do with the bigger blocks you've treated is to take a hammer and chisel and break one of them apart before crush/cook (or you can shoot it with your pellet gun to make a hole down) and see if it's actually wet inside, there's a lot of different non-water liquids that can still stay behind in wood and judging from the dark color you might've been pushing out resin especially in pine that's known for holding a lot of it and crackling in fire because of it. If that's the case you didn't really have treated wood, you just had a weird hotpocket of treated wood with filling of compressed wood.
hotpocket of treated wood Man you got ways of putting it. I agree with your suggestions though. This is really interesting to me and I would love a revisit.
This shit would work. It’s straight up what he’s doing but using the logic of grapheme and Kevlar as your discussed. The layers splintering and dispersing the weight evenly. W comment
Perhaps taking several of these panels made as you described, and stacking them with an elastic contact cement. Spread the energy out further with the same principal as ballistic glass
It’s also worth noting that you shot the wood with a 9mm PCC witch has a significantly longer barrel than a handgun, meaning that it had a lot more energy than a handgun. You did better than you thought. 👍🏻
At first my brain couldn't wrap around the idea that a longer barrel would give the bullet more energy, since it's the same amount of energy being put into the bullet. But then I realized a longer barrel means more time for the propellant gases to expand and impart their kinetic energy to the bullet.
I saw the inside of the wood being dry from the start of the video. I do a lot of woodworking and have stabilized wood before which is kind of the same concept of what you were trying to do. You have to completely submerge the wood and pull a vacuum until it stops bubbling, then let it sit still submerged so the liquid can replace where the air came from in the wood.
Came to say that exact same thing. I would even go further and suggest to do a few cycles of vacuum to atmospheric pressure, or even higher pressure if possible. Considering that the timing of the reaction is important in order not to remove too much lignin, it is important to get the caustic soda and sulfites inside as fast as possible. Same thing for the rinsing afterwards.
I was going to leave this comment, with the caveat that pulling a vacuum on it will make the water boil, and having a solution of boiling sodium hydroxide under vacuum might be a little dangerous/impossible depending on the kind of vacuum pump.
There was a wrong assumption from the beginning on (several times mentioned, like after 24:00 ): "Not hard enough", "Hardness", etc. This feature does NOT stop bullets. The ability to completely take up an IMPULSE force and to equalize it over a big area, in contrast does.
@@dieSpinnt Webster definition of the word hard: "not easily penetrated : not easily yielding to pressure" I'd say hardness is a fine word to use here. Hard itself is a fairly vague word, and stuff that's hard on for example the Moh's scale might not be hard when judged by a different metric. Given the definition for the word hard says "Not easily penetrated" and he's testing to see if a bullet can penetrate it, I don't see any problem with using the word hard or hardness to describe the situation.
You used a 9x19 carbine. The longer barrel will allow the bullet more velocity than a pistol, so the wood stopping it was even more impressive seeing as most armor ratings for 9x19 is based on hand-gun velocities.
exactly i was thinking that so even tho the first time he used a gun it blowed the back it actually didnt do so bad because its not a hand gun or a small gun
I was going to say the same thing! So he stopped a 9mm at what is basically the maximum energy (or penetrating power if you prefer) that you can expect out of the caliber. Very impressive!
you'd think it would but longer doesnt always mean better.. in fact the 9x39 mm optimal barrel length is around 7 1/2 in. anything more you start to lose velocity to friction on the barrel rifling due to the gunpowder being used up prior to bullet leaving barrel
@@peterobinson3678 the whole time i was pissed cuz he would let it boil overnight where the psi dropped to 0. Obviously that means water left gaps and there's more room to squish it...
Considering the dry center and how much difference stacking in layers makes, I really would like to see this done with thinner wood You'd be shocked at the performance I think half the thickness but in 5 layers rather than 3 would give
smaller thinner layers most likely will provide worse results because it takes less strain to break a single thin layer thus as each layer breaks the entire thing looses its overall strength. The weakest link type of problem. This is easily seen in body armor. A single plate will greatly out perform multiple weaker plates. EDIT: With 1 possible exception of changing the angle/direction of grains/threads. Now if that was possible on a flush/fused layering that would would be drastically better than having independent boards like in video. Having multiple boards going same direction though would be worse than a single sheet. So having varying angles of grains/threads as a single board is better than multiple boards obviously.
@@KaneCold yeah dude, wait yeah do you think there's an optimal way to do that? just rotate 90 degrees every slice? take 360 degrees and split it evenly amongst the layers? Something else? I'm not an engineer, i don't know shit.
As a carpenter from Germany, I appreciate the detailed look into wood hardening here. Wood swells differently in each direction-tangential, radial, and longitudinal-so pressing it causes more expansion at the sides. For instance, Fichte (spruce) swells 0.33 tangentially, 0.16 radially, and only 0.01 longitudinally, which is why pressing has little effect longitudinally but shows more tangentially and radially. This compresses the spaces between fibers and increases hardness. When you mention the unpredictability of size after treatment, it makes sense since it depends on where the wood was cut from the log. Pieces closer to the center respond differently compared to those from the edges due to the varied structure across the log. A recommendation: using thinner wood, around 5-10mm thick, could improve the process. After pressing, this would yield hardened sheets around 0.5-1mm thick, which is similar to what’s used in multiplex wood. By layering these, you could create a hardened multiplex with increased strength without excessive thickness. Additionally, I’d suggest avoiding U-shaped grain patterns in planks, as seen in the video. This grain orientation can introduce internal stress because, as the wood dries, the grain tends to flatten. That’s one reason why round cross-sections of logs often split horizontally-they relieve internal stress as they dry. Thanks for sharing this process!
My favorite thing about your channel is that you show and discuss your failures. I think a lot of our society is geared towards avoiding failure or even mention of it, and that's a shame. Failure is an extremely important part of science, and life as a whole. Often, an important part of finding out what works involves finding out what doesn't work. You can't learn from your mistakes if you don't think about them and try to improve your process, and from a viewer's perspective, it makes it much more satisfying to see you succeed when we see how many times you tried things that didn't work like you expected. I appreciate that.
I'm really surprised that Nile didn't use a vacuum chamber to help saturate the wood with the chemicals. I think that if the entire block was saturated, it would help with the layers bonding and causing less splitting when shot.
So fun coming to write a comment and finding exactly the same already here and even citing the exact same pickle video I was thinking off when he cut the side 😛
If the inside of the wood is still dry, maybe you should try using a vacuum to suck all of the air out of the wood while it is submerged in the chemicals so that when the vacuum is released, the holes from the air are filled with the solution. This process is often used to stabilize wood by filling it with a resin which hardens with heat.
I used to work in a treatment facility for power poles and this is exactly how our process was. The wood would first be placed into a tank under vacuum to remove moisture, drained, then the tank would be filled with chemical and pressurized to force the chemical deep into the wood.
Exactly this!!! The pressure pot is commonly used by knifemakers to make much harder knife scales (the wood handles) by drawing the air out of the tubes in the middle of the wood allowing it to be replaced with the hardening liquid. This experiment also needs to be much more scientific with a non-soaked, non-crushed original, a crushed, non-soaked control, and maybe a second option like epoxy used on pre-densified but untreated wood and also on un-crushed wood before crushing - this probably wouldn't work as well, but that's what experiments are for!
That would require a much more complicated setup. Pulling a vacuum on a heated, frothing, caustic liquid would surely make a big mess and kill your pump rather quickly.
Amazing video, thank you. I can think of four suggestions to potentially enhance it. 1. Grain orientation The pine you used was from a younger tree or cut closer to the center of the tree. If you buy higher quality wood it should have all layers more parallel and straight. 2. Deeper penetration of chemicals While soaking the wood in the solution you could use your vacuum chamber. Then before repeating the same but with water, you would blow pressurised air to blow in the end grain to replace the solution with air (over a sink or preferably in the sanding chamber). 3. More but thinner layers Not accounting for any other factors but using 2 layers with perpendicular grain orientation being 5x stronger, extrapolates to 2.5x the strength when cutting a single piece in half (by height) and gluing back perpendicularly. In general using more thinner pieces is vastly better than a single piece of combined thickness. Coincidentally, this would also help with chemicals reaching all the way through. Also note why using 3 layers is so vastly superior to using only 2. It's because the thirds layer's orientation prevents the second layer exploding in the bullet direction. Hence the bullet expands and destroys only first layer which has the freedom to break towards the shooter. 4. Replacing water with epoxy I'm the least confident how the water would affect this one but here it goes. You should obviously keep repeating using water until satisfied, but before the big squeeze, you could blow the water out again with pressurised air and then back to the vacuum chamber with epoxy instead. You will end up destroying whatever container you use for this last step. You will also need to saw off the epoxy around the wood so it's best to pay a visit to a local woodworker. I'm also curious of - How the squished and dried wood layers would stick to one another without the glue? - What is the density of the finished product and how does it compare to current military standard vest inserts? Is it lighter? Even with epoxy? - If it would be optimal to use many many alternatingly perpendicular layer as close to thin as paper as possible? - Is alternatingly a word? I see an hour long video and think "no way am I gonna watch through it all", but you keep me glued to the phone and fill my head with answers to questions I never head and questions I might never get the answers to. For all your effort, thank you.
I think a pressure chamber instead of vacuum would be more effective. It's not so much air that's the problem, it's the fibers in the wood. Or perhaps pulling a vacuum and then increasing the pressure would work best. Removing any possible air and then forcing the chemicals into the wood.
@@oriontherealironman It seems like its a similar process to making stabilized wood, in which case you really do need a vacuum chamber, you pull the air with the vacuum chamber then when you release the vacuum its replaced with the chemicals
I think he should compress the pieces together instead of using glue. Will the heat chemically bind celulose from separate planks? That way, he can do a four or five layer block without being more glue than wood.
Really cool. Experimented with a bulletproof shield and this opened up a lot of questions. I think it's clear from my experiment and combining what I've seen here is that no matter how dense or malleable the initial surface is, it still requires something to flex as a backplate or to condense the material. Well done Nile, breaking the box of conventional thinking to make innovations a reality.
Great video! Couple suggestions. Looks like you're not using fully cured wood. Meaning, the virgin wood still has a lot of moisture left in it, preventing the solution from fully saturating. A few things to try: fully cure the wood by kiln drying it, and testing with a moisture meter. Also, it might be helpful to submerge the wood, then apply a vacuum (to remove any air trapped from inside), THEN apply heat. Also, as someone else suggested, using thinner virgin wood then compressing the layers together in the press en mass, could potentially achieve a overall thinner product with the same (or similar) strength profile. Think hyper-dense plywood.
100% this! The untreated bit in the middle was probably due to water not being displaced by the chemicals. Looking at the splintered wood it shows the inside is pale which implies untreated. Would be really interesting to see wood which was treated all the way through.
Yeap! My thoughts too! Self-sabotage with too thick pieces. Except I don't think it was water in the middle - it was air! So a vacuum chamber would have solved it. But regardless, the chemical treating would be made much easier with thinner pieces. So prioritize thinner pieces over using a vacuum chamber. But there's another very important benefit too! Since the wood splits along the grain, alternating the grain directions results in the the force of the impact being spread over a much larger area. Since the bullet-stopping effect comes from how much area of the wood that is made to absorb the energy, having many thin layers of alternating directions should improve this material by several hundred percent!
You were correct that your solution was not saturating the center of the wood. You can use a vacuum to get it to penitrate fully.put your whole soaking set up in a vacuum and hold vacuum for the same length of time it takes to remove all air from the wood
@@NorthBus you can always pull a light vacuum so the pressure drops to encourage air out of the wood, while also being higher than the boiling point of the solution.
What I really like about this channel is that you don't only just display you successful attempts. But the progress and failed attempts that brought you to your final conclusion. Its entertaining and scientific about it.
Nile, have you looked into how they industrially pressure treat wood? Pieces are placed in a giant vacuum chamber and heated to reduce moisture content and then placed in a pressurized chamber filled with the liquid chemicals they want to force into the wood pores, also at temperature. I think if you added some vacuum drying (to encourage the wood to soak more liquid) and pressurized chemical cleaning you would get the chemicals to penetrate considerably deeper into the wood grain.
@@derpmaster2732 eh, you can make a vacuum chamber for relatively cheap and adding a hot plate shouldn't be the hardest addition. For the small sizes he's working with it shouldn't be super difficult or expensive
For the initial step you could use a similar setup woodworkers use to stabilize wood. Pull a vaccum with the piece of wood in the solution, the vacuum will pull all of the air out and the solution in. Not expensive at all.
Just a thought: the store bought wood is kiln dried. It changes the lignin. Air dried but not totally dried (like seasoned firewood for instance) should take to treatment better. Maybe even reduce layer count, but that last part is just a guess. Nice work!
i also remember him having to pressurize air out of wood when he did his translucent wood video to fully penetrate it, which probably would have helped for this experiment too.
@@nopenoperson8964I think it is actually fairly important. It would definitely help the wood uptake the chemical mixture much better. Coincidentally this is how you would treat wood for certain applications.
Hi Nigel! Just some potential suggestions to the process : 1) if the boiling process is done in a vacuum, it would force the basic solution into the cellulose tubes of the wood. This should eliminate any potential variable of the middle parts of the wood not being treated by the solution. The washing can also take place in a vacuum to force the solution out 2) if you compress the wood slabs together (the horizontal pieces and the vertical pieces together in the stainless steel press) the remaining lignin should in theory bond both pieces of wood even stronger than an artifical glue bond
Also, he can use 1 to 2 mm height size compressed wood and compact together many sheets, that'll probably homogenized the system due to the fact that a thiner slab in this case can be less prone to critical structure failure.
If you ever decide to go back and revisit this, I think one of the first things I would want to look into is why when you sliced through that one block of wood the interior looked so much different than the exterior. That really makes me think that the chemical processing steps may not be fully converting the inner portion of the wood in the way that they're supposed to, so even though it is compressing roughly the same way it should, it may not be able to actually form the additional bonds between fibers the way it is supposed to. This would also explain why it still seems to be delaminating in much the same way that ordinary wood fibers would do, which seems a bit suspicious if there actually was substantially increased bonding between the compressed fibers like the paper suggested should happen. (you also didn't appear to do much in the way of testing with the unprocessed wood for comparison. I'm curious what would happen if you just took the raw wood and put it through the same pressure/heat treatment, without the chemical steps, and how it would compare.)
If you look at the process of compression, you see that the middle section isn't compressing as well as the rest, maybe hinting at problems with chemical penetration.
Yep. Even in testing, the inside of the wood was a significantly different colour. Appears that the chemicals didn't leach. I think it would be better to use thinner pieces of wood so that they leach completely. Then crosshatch like ply in the press. Doing it without glue would also be a good test as to whether the hydrogen bonds can occur between seperate pieces (and therefore test whether they occur at all).
Not only would using thinner pieces of wood help ensure the absorption of the chemicals throughout the whole slice, but I believe cross-hatching 5 thinner pieces of "bulletproof wood" would also make it much much stronger due to more pieces being cross-hatched. If he did that, I feel like it could potentially stop a 5.56
The trick would be to use multiple layers of thinner wood with each layer having their grain perpendicular to each other. Don't use glue to bond them together, use the press to add several layers at a time, just using the pressure to bond them. Also even though the wood doesn't expand as much perpendicular to the grain direction, you should have the wood enclosed on all sides, especially if you do alternating layers of wood.
Bravo! I come from a structural engineering background and this documentary was amazing! I thought it would be worth sharing some observations I made. COEFFICIENT OF MOISTURE ABSORPOTION - 35:40 Moisture permeates a material at a certain rate. If you remove the wood from the solution too soon, the wood does not become fully saturated. At 35:40, the difference in color could be indication that the material near the exterior is saturated(wet), while the inner material is unsaturated (dry looking). If you measure the weights before and after, you should see a difference in weight because the material has absorbed different amounts of the solution. At 47:33, you noted that the material feels stiffer. This could be because you allowed the material more time to absorb more moisture, thus becoming stiffer. WARPING DUE TO TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCES - 44:35 Materials are known to expand or contract as the temperature changes. If the temperature is not uniform, the expansion/contraction will be uneven and will lead to thermal distortions/warping. I suspect the exterior of the wood starts to cool down while the interior stays warm for an extended period of time. Since the exterior is cooler than the interior, this might be playing a role in the warping. If I remember, an autoclave could be used to help keep the temperatures uniform, which would help mitigate warping. P.S. Also note that the wood and NaOH and Na2SO3 solutions have different coefficients of thermal expansion. The wood and the permeated solution might be expanding/contracting differently as the temperature changes. POISSON EFFECT - 33:40 When you compress most materials, the material tends to expand elsewhere. Compress a penny and its thickness decreases, but its diameter increases. Compress other objects, and the outcome is almost a wider result. Very clever in using tooling to wall off the wood and partially prevent the expansion. I suspect it is that expansion that was causing some of the cracks that were observed during production. DELAMINATION - 16:20 Imagine stacking multiple pancakes. When you compress the pancakes, you will see almost the same behavior as in 16:20. Is this delamination occurring? I suspect this is not good because that means you have compromised the strength of the wood, which is irreversible. Your clever use of tooling to wall off the wood during compression was great in preventing some of the delamination. Factors important to ballistic tolerance Density - Some modern military tanks are equipped with radioactive uranium armor because uranium is one of the more denser materials in the periodic table. A higher density is preferred because it means the projectile has to dig through more material to make it across. Thickness - The plate/wood needs to be sufficiently thick to resist the impact. It was great to see that 7 plates of wood was reduced to 3 plates to resist the bullet. Good stuff!
How the wood was dried should also affect how it takes up the solutions used. Almost all commercially sold lumber is kiln dried but standards for rate of drying and target moisture content vary from place to place. There will always be some minimum amount of moisture left, so “roasting” it before soaking should help. (Naturally seasoned wood is preferable but takes quite some extra prep time.) Before and after weighing as you say would be helpful. I get that Our Hero has limited engineering skills (despite him realizing that mechanically restricting the wood during compression was a Good Idea) and the following engineering solution might be beyond him, but heating and compressing the wood (after ensuring full penetration of the solution) under vacuum would help extract more of the solution and assist in compacting and cross linking the fibers. Your pancake stacking analogy echoes a thought of mine; the “diagonal” cracks to me looked like they followed the pre-treatment grain of the wood. Obtaining lumber with the grain perpendicular to the larger faces of the wood (e.g. 4x2 as opposed to 2x4) can be challenging but might yield better results. (Minor nit: I think you meant to say that tank armor uses *non*-radioactive (depleted) uranium.) I love the comments on these videos that bring up things the creator doesn’t know or didn’t consider.
It seems like the primary issue is with the brittleness of the wood itself, the back shattering is reminiscent of an issue on older tanks known as "spalling", where the metal absorbs the impact of the round but fragments on the other side, creating shrapnel without penetrating. This issue was found to be down to the brittleness of the metal, and with how dry and brittle that wood appears to be, along with the fact that every structural failure seen with the wood involves the back blowing out so dramatically. Perhaps more time under more pressure at a slightly reduced heat would result in a more uniform melding of the grain in the wood and in turn a less brittle, more resilient material. It may also be worth while applying some sort lamination to the material, or even a thin steel/titanium lining glued to the back.
Some ideas for future improvements: -use thinner pieces of wood to get complete penetration of the base to dissolve all lignin and hemicellulose -use a completely square (or SAPI shaped, lol) steel cage to crush them -add multiple of the thin plates alternating and crush them together to have one glue-free plate (hence closing off both sides to avoid crushing o both ends) alternatively you can look at different solution methods like organosolv (methanol at ~180C and 30bar) or ionosolv ([Et3N][HSO4] at ~130C and 30bar).
also: composites! if this is intended as armor, he could incorporate a thin metal sheet - the wood absorbs and breaks up the bullet, the metal stops any fragments from exiting
Something to also consider is trying to keep the grain on the wood as symmetrical as possible. That will help with even pressing the wood. It might also be worth using a pressure vessel to treat the wood. The extra pressure would force the chemical deeper into the wood. That has common wood as treated. It's also how resins are forced into wood. A final note, pre spread the wood glue, to prevent air pockets.
I was 100% sure the dry middle part was going to be foreshadowing for some critical issue that would fix everything but it just, didnt get mentioned at all 😭
yeah, I actually wonder if it was a big thing though. Makes me wonder if the wood in the study was well seasoned and dry first. IM gonna do a google search on getting stain to penetrate all the way through wood. Also were the depth dimensions he used the same as the study? because that could change everything, because even if the outer shell is fully treated, he's then potentionally mixing that outer shell with the untreated inner shell, and that could throw off the whole chemical fusion aspect. the water is assumedly the only thing in the treated part by the time he was pressing, so it's not transfering over the first solution he used while pressing even. I wonder what would happen if he cut it into thin strips adding up to the same depth of starting wood, and then pressed them like that. One time with all the grain going the same direction, and one version with them criss crossed(even though that's not what was cited in the study, we might get some data from that)
I wonder if drilling very small holes through could help disperse the liquid through the whole block. I imagine it would affect the structural integrity of the final product but it would be worth a shot if the idea is revisited someday.
@@Preston241 It might not, considering the fusing process it is supposed to later go through when compressed/heated. You might be on to something!. Space the hooles a little less than the distance he observed it soaking through when he cut it? i think you're on to something worth trying.
I also thought about the pressing process eventually permeating deeper into the wood, however, since the wood was washed several times and soaked, the solution would not remove the lignin and hemicellulose deeper in the wood. I think a reasonable solution would be to pressure treat the wood, instead of soaking it. Or prior to that, attempt soaking it for much longer. Or perhaps soaking/pressing multiple thinner layers, gluing them together with the grains reversed until a net desired thickness is achieved, and then try shooting it! I would also say that since wood glue is designed for wood and not designed for densified wood, I would also experiment with different types of glue if issues continued to persist
I have that same Ruger 10/22 rifle. It’s three years older than me (manufactured 1986) and it still shoots like a champ. Cycles like a dream, never jams. They’re great little guns.
Add pressure to the initial treatment. When telephone poles are treated, they are extremely pressurized while being treated so the chemicals actually reach the center. When the wood was cut in your video, it showed how dry it was in the middle. The middle of the wood is the densest so the hot chemicals at normal pressure wont be able to fully soak the wood.
Agreed. In a pressure cooker? Or a vacuum chamber? It was definitely not treated in the middle. Amazing how screwing up shows you what the problem is! Now it’s up to you to find a solution. (Vacuum/pressurize)
@@Jrskeetprohe obviously had to start chemical part with vacuum to make it penetrated inside the wood or make thinner plates. and then press bunch of thin pieces in plywood fashion
And honestly, using the pressurized method plus layered, while it is not something that would be good for body armor, making things like furniture, like a table top/desk top like that could actually make the idea of 'flipping up a table to protect yourself' actually work.
As a young electronics student and aspiring entrepreneur, I appreciate you showing all of the painstaking trial and error, so I can see that "the process" is never smooth even for people much smarter than me! Also, I think that the wood appearing to be dry in the middle is very significant. Looking at the shot just after you cut it open we can see that your solution penetrated more deeply at the end grain sides. Refer back to (nano?)scopic images of the wood grain, it seems to me that the solution can more easily pass through the tubes than it can through the walls. I think this experiment could be drasticically improved if the the entire wood sample was saturated in the middle as well because I imagine that the saturated exterior is getting really really dense while the center remains to be just crushed wood - essentially forcing the bulletproof wood to be bulletproff just on the exterior. If you come back to this, you ought to find a way to pull the solution through the tubes (or let the wood saturate for weeks if thats possible). I think you may have been on the right track with your first trial with the end of the wood being out of solution because the pressure differential between the hot solution and ambient atmospheric pressure may have helped "pushed up" more solution deeper into the tubes. Once again, thank you, and I hope to see you revisit this with your clever ideas! Cheers, Joshua
The first thing I thought is I totally want to turn a cheap 2x4 into a fingerboard for a guitar. What's really interesting is the potential to mold the wood as it's formed. You could potentially compress scrap wood into 'hardwood' into a specific contour or add other features at the same time. Hell, I'm curious how it'd look if you just stuck a quarter under the wood in the press.
Try it with Hemp. Henry Ford built a Hemp Composite bodied model-A and demonstrated its durability by shooting it with a .30 cal machine gun. After which, he walked up, wiped the powder burn and fragments off, and proclaimed, "See folks! Not a Dent! And hardly a Scratch!" But then Stanley steel, Standard oil, and Hurst timber, made sure ol Henry, "got with the program."...
I am not familiar, but looking at their gaming channel, I presume this is a joke because their name has bullet in it. I will return if an actual gamer appears in the video to shoot the wood.
I used t make bulletproof windows for humvees - you have hard layer (glass), soft layer (vinyl), hard layer, soft layer etc with 5 hard layer laminates. The hard layer spreads the energy, soft one absorbs it etc. May be helpful if you carry on!
I feel like even a thin layer of Kevlar in-between the wood would make a huge difference. Kevlar is pretty crap at stopping bullets but with a hard ceramic plate it works great. Which that wood is basically the same thing. Probably much more expensive to make the wood but cool as heck
Love that when Nile was talking about setting up the grain of the two pieces of wood perpendicular to each other, I was nodding along because that's what we do in sewing when we want to make sure a flat-lined piece of fabric is as strong as possible. Scrolling to the comments to see people in other industries chiming in about the same thing being useful in other types of construction and armor is delightful!
Yup. Thats how plywood works and why it's stronger than the same cut of homogeneous wood. Also when stacking pallets or loading trucks you use the same or principle to make the load far more stable. One of those simple but incredibly useful buts of knowledge. I didn't realize it applied to sewing, so you taught me something today. Thanks!
I also didn't know it applied to sewing, but epoxy/fiberglass bullet proof armor is made the same way, also, carbon fiber bikes which is just epoxied carbon fiber, applies the same principles tactically, depending on the stress points.(continuous fibers are strongly circumstantially)
this idea is used in many different things, like plywood for structural strength, or kevlar for strengthening actual bulletproof armor another fun fact, kevlar is actually a fabric and is easily cut by scissors
I worked on this exact project for about a year! I did it for a science fair project a few years ago. I used a 20 ton hydraulic press that I got for just $100. One of the tough parts like you mentions was heating it while being pressurized for so long. I got it to stop a 9mm from 10 feet away at about 1/4 inch wood. Thank you for this video, it was great to see someone else go through this process.
Did you use the same steps as nile did or did you use a different kind of wood ? Because a 9mm is a significantly stronger bullet. And judging by the efforts nile did, it is really hard to make a bullet stopping wood
Something to keep in mind also is that you used rifles to fire the rounds and not handguns. The longer barrels allow for more velocity to build up for the bullets. So you were making it even harder for yourself, and it still worked out. Very cool stuff!
Only ways he could have used a handgun for the tests would be to either: 1. Go to a range where they'd allow him to test it or 2. Own land in a rural area and submit papers to make it a personal range Easiest to just use a rifle honestly
@TrilliumGrandiflorum480 wasn't really criticising it, I know canada's gun laws are all sorts of dumb. I am in the US, so I don't know the specifics up there. Just thought it was good context to add that is not mentioned in the video about the barrel lengths.
I really hope you read this comment because I have two very important points to make that I hope you don’t skip over. Number one, you are correct in asserting that 9mm is typically fired from a handgun, but you didn’t seem to notate the fact that shooting it out of a rifle length 16 1/2 inch barrel, would significantly increase its velocity. Meaning, if it had been fired from a handgun, it very likely wouldn’t have shattered the back piece of wood. Secondly, it seems as though you pay third parties, a lot of money to machine equipment for you that you could very likely get from other TH-camr/Engineers living in Canada, which would very likely be more apt to help you with your projects for a much lower price. I recommend looking up and getting in contact with the TH-camr known as “AvE”. He’s a legend among TH-cam engineers, and is rumored to have formally been an engineer for NASA. Regardless of his previous credentials, you can tell from watching his videos alone, that the man is a genius.
i like how his script always makes him sound like hes reading off a chemistry procedure paper this will be the most thorough explanation of opening a box you will hear in your life
you did a really good job at making the scientiffic process genuinely interesting to watch. i can only imagine how tedious it was to squish all those pieces of wood by hand like that
@@cda32 Nigel consistently explained the thought process used to hypothesize what could fix issues he observed, which is the cyclical hypothesis-experimentation-evaluation loop that is seen in the scientific method. The edges of the wood still expanded -> maybe there's something wrong with how it was compressed? -> evaluation of video footage leading to discovery of the top plate shifting -> maybe center it better and use larger block to keep it more stable? -> worked a bit better, but it still expanded a bit on one side -> maybe use a steel template to prevent the wood from expanding? -> the wood didn't noticeably expand
@@cda32 the process of trial and error is the scientiffic process. you test a hypothesis, record the results, then you try again improving the process each time. this is how we end up with wood armor one day lmao. maybe not, but still an interesting project to me at least
the bulletproof wood thing is cool, but what's really cool to consider here would be making instruments from this wood with how old growth wood with the tighter ring growth changes the sound so drastically I'd like to see a master craftsman get their hands on this stuff and make a guitar/violin/w.e out of this stuff
Can we just take a moment to appreciate just how insanely persistent nigel is? Like dude has spent YEARS on a task Edit: wow thanks for 1.4k likes I didn’t expect this
He does this all the time on multiple projects at the same time- and not even all of them make it into videos. Nigel is truly just an absolute monster of dedication
Hi Nile! Here's a few ideas you should try to improve the results: 1) Use a pressurized stainless steel container to remove air and force in the chemicals into the wood. You can also seal it in such a way so the chemicals will be pumped from one side of the block and exit from another. Most likely, you should pump it from the side and use a solenoid electric pump from a small coffee machine. It is stainless and plastic and can give 15 bars of pressure. You can also use the same container to hold the wood while under the press so it won't deform at all from the beginning to the final result. 2) Use more blocks of wood stacked on top of each other. 3) Cut the block into thinner sheets and rotate them to alternate fiber alignment. Try different patterns, like, 0, 90, 0, 90 or 0, 45, 90, 45, 0 etc. Try stacking like 100 layers. Do it before the press. 4) Completely lock the material in a mold and apply more pressure 100% of the time. 5) Vacuum dry the final or intermediate result and pressurize it with epoxy resin to fill in the remaining gaps. Not sure if this will even help but that's feels very intuitive to do lmao
I agree (except for the resin part that is probably more harm than good), i would use some different wood with a tighter grain. Unfortunately the good couple centuries old pine is no longer available for more than sample sizes. If I could manage to make or find a press for cheap I would definitely try to make a few
Thick wood takes awhile to soak all the way through. The issue is by the time the inside is treated and the lingnin is broken down sufficiently on the inside, the outside will be too broken down. To fix you can use thinner pieces of wood, press them down into essentially sheets and then glue them back together into the thickness of the piece youve used in the video. In addition you can alternate grain directions between sheets and have a very strong piece of wood.
Yeah you're basically making a carbon fiber laminate at that point. Seems like it would have a lot of potential. Nile needs to do some more reading and come at this with some more sophistication
The initial cooking time might need some adjustments, but i think taking thinner slices of wood is definitely a good way to improve it. You might even be able to press-cook two or three thin sheets at the same the same time by using thin steel spacers, though that might cause issues with the heat transfer...
@@primedialgaYou may not need to space them, just press cook them into their final configuration, and maybe confine it in both directions. That way you get the laminates cooking into a single piece rather than relying on another type of glue. You'd have to solve drainage for the pressing procedure when it's confined all around but I imagine that's as simple as creating some thin openings in the corners.
If you ever revisit this, I would recommend putting the wood in a vacuum chamber while in the solution and then releasing the pressure to fill it with liquid, the TH-cam channel Peter Brown has some good videos where he demonstrates this to stabilise wood with resin. I’d also recommend trying to press the two plates of wood together rather than glueing them. Hydrogen bonds holding them together would be much stronger! Great video man!!
Some bullet proof materials, notably glass, actually benefit from having a layer of glue between them as the glue absorbs energy and turns it into heat. It might be that Nile just needs a better, purpose made glue for this.
Thank you nile. Been a fan of you since I was a teen (16 or 17). Im 23 now. You ignited my love for chemistry. I love your content. Its a like a gift whenever you upload. Wish i had a friend like you!
@@NoahSteckleyyou could pre-stain the wood before densifying it, or stain it during the chemical treatment which would likely result in a perfectly full-depth stain. Alternatively, the results of processing are already pretty beautiful and highlight the grain nicely. I’m actually kind of excited about this material as hardwood flooring and especially as trim and shoe moulding. Not to mention tabletop, workshop, and kitchen applications. Imagine an entire dining room table that is usable as a cutting board without the slightest trace of damage. The idea of a relatively cheap to manufacture scratchproof and dentproof wood product is tantalizing.
Nile , if you’re living in Canada. Go to a sports store, and purchase a secondhand (stiff snowboard). Cut it into two pieces so you have 12 inches bye 6 inches and a second one of 12“ x 6“. Drill quarter inch holes 1 inch apart down the 12 inch sides close to the edge then take the second piece and repeat the process. Now think of your running shoes on how you lace them and use that same process on binding the two 12inch links together. On the 6 inch side, go 3 inches in and drill a hole, and on the other 6 inches (second piece) drill a hole . Take a string and holding the two pieces on your chest (after you Sewn them together) And measure out the amount of string it takes to go around your neck and connect both holes drilled into the 2-6 inch sides . When hung around your neck, the two -12 inch sides protrude from your sternum which will deflect a pointed incoming round. It will deflect and possibly save your life. Bullets (full metal jacket 7.62 mm) will deflect at 45°. Try this out on your TH-cam channel.
I think something that wasn't accounted for early on was the grain alignment. Aligning the grain is very important in most applications and this feels like you need to select the right wood or treat it to straighten the grain layers.
@@frandurrieu6477that's true it's crazy tho because I was thinking the same thing because I think it should have been obvious that different words with different grains size and width would give different results
I used to work in a lab where we tested the effectiveness of wood preservatives. To ensure that the wood was properly impregnated, we used a vacuum pressure plant. A vacuum was drawn to fully open up the xylem and phloem, then the wood was immersed in the preservatives under a few atmospheres of pressure to ensure that it penetrated as deeply as possible ( the length of the wood was also a factor). When I saw the cross section of your sample I could see how this method would be helpful should you decide to have another go
I was thinking something like that too. When they treat pine with copper sulfate, they use a giant pressure vessel. Maybe NR needs to immerse and put it under vacuum, for a few cycles until no more bubbles come out then put it in a pressure cooker and treat it under pressure for 7 hours.
This. I've also heard of this done with glues / reinforcing chemistry for woods used in plywood-making process steps and other impregnated wood products, where penetration of the material is required. I think what Neil made was a very thin layer of the desired chemistry with a very very thick layer of ordinary wood in the middle, so its structural properties weren't as expected. I totally understand not reaching that point after what looked like years of on-again / off-again experiments behind the scenes (note that the purchase date for the press was 2020!).
You gotta realize that they could sell or use that machine in the future, aswell as the fact that they were buying the actual machine for more money than the material because they wanted to proove that even the bad wood could turn bulletproof
Two improvements I think would make a big difference: 1. Get properly kiln dried wood, something with a < 10% moisture level, ideally 5-6%. This should allow the solution to penetrate deeper into the wood. The wood you got was probably in the 15-25% range. 2. Use quarter-sawn lumber. This would significantly help the wood from warping, crushing or curling. May even be a bit stronger.
I'd like to add that maybe he should get tooling designed for it. Like a die for it to be pressed in, I've used stuff like that when working in aerospace to make sure it doesn't warp out like that. Granted it's Titanium and not wood. Edit, nvm he did make a die. Just not fully enclosed like I'm used to, where the die halves interlock with each other when closed.
You know it's crazy I basically watched the whole video. Goes to show that you don't need to go out of your way to edit it down to 10 minutes to appease people who actually want to learn with you when you make mistakes. Really appreciate you showing every step of the way I look forward to your next hour video lol
I just finished the video and was perusing the comments and took a double take at yours as I realized the video was an hour long. I just happily consumed the whole thing without even realizing how much time had passed. Sign of good content I guess lol
Appreciate the energy and time you put into these videos. Also seeing how those bullets go thru materials so easily makes me aware of how bad Hollywood lied about these shootouts showing us a person being saved jumping behind a simple object.
This video is a really great demonstration for why replication studies are important. Lots of important details were captured in this video that did not seem to make it into the original paper!
As someone who has to read papers all day long and figure out how to apply them for work, a lot of papers need to be clearer on exactly how they do thing and with what kind of setup.
I get the impression that if a process might have practical applications the papers are made as simplified and misleading as possible without actually lying in order to maintain some value to their expertise in the process.
@@Michaelonyoutub Tbh papers should come with all the processes documented via video. Cameras are cheap. I know some people are already doing it, but it's far from the norm.
I think the missing steps are utilizing vacuum and pressure in the wash and rinse stages. Wood turners often treat their wood this way to completely saturate their blocks and curing them before turning.
I agree totally. I thought the eureka moment was at the band saw when trimming treated timber. I was expecting a change in how he was treating the wood.
@@uggiebear1 Yeahhh... I keep thinking back to that moment and how he should have seen only the outer layer of the wood was treated. Vacuum/pressure in the wash and rinse stages would be necessary. I also think he could go *much* thinner considering the strength when so little wood was treated. I would like to see what four ¼ in pressed layers can do. Use urea formaldehyde or phenolic glue for gluing the layers together, use the correct amount of glue, and maybe dry the treated wood in a kiln before squashing it to prevent liquid from creating cavities in the fibers.
As an added experiment, I wondered how the material would perform if the core was saturated with an adhesion promoter before proceeding with compression. When being squeezed, the remaining lignin, which the researchers said was not taken to 0%, I assume plays a role in binding the remaining mass in correct proportion. The adhesion promoter may also prevent delamination from oils coming out during the squeezing. Oils can ruin an adhesive bond and make a part weak. The internal binding may be found weak in adhesion and shooting a bullet near an edge, where there is no unsaturated and washed section may prove to be at near the ideal strength.
soak out the lignin and then treat with stabilizing resin before the cook and press? it could be more brittle, but if you cut the block into a few layers and stacked crisscrossing the grain. i think that would be best, plus you could make it a cool color w the stabilizing resin. someone call peter brown, we have wood micarta, or kevlar, depending...
I think a lot of really thin layers could make it a hell lot stronger, not only would it make it easier for the chemicals to get through the whole wood, but also spread the energy better through both grain directions
Also rather than gluing the end plates together it may be worth a try to just press them together in the first place. There's a chance that the same reaction that makes the wood denser could also make different plates stick to each other
@@DrunkGeko I was thinking exactly this. A bunch of thin sheets pressed together in alternating grain patterns would probably do a lot for strength. I'm thinking 1/2" or 1/4" thick pieces/
I think properly drying the wood before using it as a sponge, then soaking it like a sponge, as well as thinner pieces for better chemical penetration. The only variable that you didn't change yet was the way that you're treating the wood. You got the press dailed. I would also try pressing drywood, untreated wood, just to see how it behaves.
To be entirely fair to your final wood, most bulletproof vests are not rated for more than a few shots. And of course, if you're shot even once, the entire thing realistically needs to be replaced after the fact. So I think the bulletproof wood has even *more* potential than you pointed out. Very cool proof of concept!!
Depends on the type/rating. Class 4 armor will stop a 30-06 armor piercing round. One. Once. It shatters in the process. (This is what absorbs the energy.) Class 3A will usually stop several rounds at the very least. Class 4 is ceramic, 3A isn't. Vests, (soft armor) are almost unknown these days and don't work all that well. Plate carriers are the norm.
@@rear9259 Realistically speaking, there is a greater chance you get shot somewhere not covered by the plate (neck, hands, legs, face) than getting hit twice in it one after another.
You should try making the wood in thin sheets, laying them on top of each other in a criss cross pattern while still wet, then pressing them together into a larger piece. I think your chemicals aren’t permeating correctly and also it would allow you to increase the number of layers
Yeah I would love to see a part 2 on this. There's a lot of helpful comments and I think he could actually make something bulletproof if he combined some of these methods.
Very cool experiment. Some thoughts.. Regarding the testing of the first thin piece of wood.. Stabbing it with the screwdriver, the wood had a table to help with its strength / When you set it up with the pellet gun - the wood was on its own, so of course it blew out the back. This you have to take into account. Also - working with wood... How the wood has been milled (from which part of the trunk of the tree and what orientation) makes for a different type of grain, a different kind of wood with different strength properties - Ideally I think you would want to have a piece of wood that has 'almost perfect', straight grain (or maybe the end grain perfectly diagonal for density). Also, pine is a softwood and not very finely grained - so I think relatively the treatment will have more effect than when you would start out with a hardwood.. Also wood has a moisture content to begin with - maybe that would interfere with the first chemical reaction. Perhaps you can get some control there.. Also, laminating wood in different directions, muiltiple layers might make it more efficient. (ah you thought of this yourself!)
You should send this video to the corresponding author(s) of the paper, I bet they’d love it! I also think it’s worthy of praise that you preservered so many times when quitting seemed obvious, and achieved something amazing because of it. Amazing video all around
@@user-op8fg3ny3jfrom the papers I've read, that is quite annoyingly a common theme, scientists need writing courses unironically. (But no hate, they're very highly educated, it's probably hubris to a degree, they probably just assume other scientists know what they mean)
The research is awsome, it open up paths for many new considerations on the subject...but things like claiming is near strong as steel when it's clearly not, kinda fishy...
@@user-op8fg3ny3j I think they know how well they described it, and that it is very common to give far less than perfect descriptions of experiment in scientific papers
Hey Nile! Just a little FYI, .22LR is surprisingly good penetrator round at close range. It’s a very small surface area with a high velocity. Small and fast bullets can do a lot more work than they’re given credit for.
9mm weighs 100-150 grains 22 weighs 40 grains. 22 is doing 1000 fps giving around 120 ft lbs of energy. 9mm is doing 1300 giving around 400. Lots more energy as you can see by the video. 22 sucks. When you get into .223 you have a much larger powder charge and the gas expands for the whole trip down the barrel accelerating the 30-65 grain bullet for longer making the speed more like 3000 fps giving 1000 ft lbs + of energy. This is what people mean when they say smaller and faster rounds kill armor. Nobody is taking about a 22 with that statement.
@@TheThe-om3qt Nick means foot-pound-force, the imperial version of Newton-metres. Yes, it's that annoying unit that could be torque or energy depending whether the force and the distance are perpendicular or in line. If you think it's bad having other units over the border, pity the people of the UK where road distances are in miles and yard, altitudes are in feet, beer and cider are in pints, fuel economy is in litres per 100 km or miles per gallon, fuel is sol in litres, timber dimensions are in mm, milk is in litres, air guns are limited by muzzle energy in foot-pounds-force, airsoft guns are limited by muzzle energy in Joules, shotgun barrel lengths are a minimum 24 inches and other firearm barrel lengths are a minimum 30 cm. Anyway, 1 J = ~¾ ft-lb-f, and if you want energy per unit area here you go, in J / mm² for 21st Century people: 9 x 17 mm: 3.3 .45 ACP 4.9 to 5.7 9 x 19 mm 7.9 to 8.1 .40 S&W: 8.2 to 8.8 .22 LR 7.0 to 10.9 (That's quite a range compared the others) 10 mm auto: 9.6 to 14.8 .44 Magnum: 11.4 to 17.8 .45-70: 24.2 to 49.2 5.56 x 45 mm: 69.2 to 76.6 .30-06: 83.4 to 90.3 Whether it's actually energy per unit area or energy per unit circumference that matters to barrier defeat could be a topic for a LONG discussion.
Question: Do you ever share your results with the authors of the papers you get some of your ideas from? I feel like in cases like this they'd be very interested to compare notes.
My first thought when issues started cropping up was "Why didn't you just look up the contact information of the authors and send them an email?". The majority of academics absolutely love it when you show interest in their work, and they would probably be happy to answer any questions.
One thing to note: if you're trying to get chemicals to actually penetrate all the way into wood, you're going to need to do so under at least partial vacuum to help draw some of the trapped air out of the xylem and phloem. I'd be curious to see what the effect of a laminate of several thinner sheets of densified wood would be. Start with, like, 12mm thick red oak squares compressed down to, like, 2mm and sandwich several of them together until you get back to around 12mm thickness, since that's approximately how thick body armor tiles are. I think the thinner starting thickness would also make the penetration of the chemical solution more thorough.
THAT WAS OUR COLLEGE THESIS BACK IN 2020! I believe we used the same paper to create the densified wood and our idea was to reinforce it with a bamboo fiber which are also densified bamboo fibers so basically two layers of densified wood and in the middle, reinforced fiber. Our main problem and setback was the machine since we had to make it out of scrap metal. We were able to make some densified wood samples using hardwood and softwood that are found here in the Philippines to be able to compare the strength of the two after it was densified. Our main goal was to make densified wood composite that can be used to create blocks that can be used in ceilings, walls, floors, and other economic use. Unfortunately we did not finished the thesis due to lockdown but I can say the curing process was a tedious process 😂. I wished we had funds to recreate such beautiful design paper and be able to test how strong hardwoods and softwoods are after it was densified and reinforced with fibers. I miss my college friends/bestfriends too ❤️ Thank you for making this experiment, Nile!
Densified bamboo? You guys are onto something, bamboo is ass dirt cheap, and I it grows stupidly fast, making it highly sustainable, also it's flatter and thinner than wood, so better lignin-removing-solution penetration, less dry part.
@@bodyno3158 that is what we are trying to test, whether this bamboo fiber reinforcement will add strength to our densified woods but sadly our project was cut short due to lockdown. Also, we are experimenting on different adhesives like polyurethane to glue this fibers into our densified wood.
@@keiferlee The lumber mill I worked at in high school specialized in LVL (laminated veneer lumber) which is alternating strips of veneer glued under pressure. Sounds very similar to what you were doing but with veneer and lower pressure. Its very strong structurally to be used as beams over large spans.
@@gerald9326 pretty much the same time as in the video but sometimes we skip maybe one or two hours of it since we have to go to school at the same time and don't have time to leave it overnight 😂😂
Hey Nile: the rifle you used actually imparts more velocity on the 9mm round then a typical pistol would do. Most class IIA vests are designed to stop 9mm pistol threats. You have to step up to class II. Or higher to stop higher velocity 9mm like what comes out of a 9mm carbine or submachine gun.
Hey im not a gun feller or particularly good at physics I'm curious if I understand what's going on here my understanding is that a 9 being fatter spreads it's load outwardly as it smashes resulting in a larger area being hit with a smaller over all impact which is effective against maiming a target but a 22 being thinner is designed to wiggle through the target because it's thinner with max force Am I off base
@@Zach-qs2bw nah dawg the 9 mm has more mass than the 22 lr as well as the 22 having less room in the casing for black powder. The equation for force is mass * acceleration which means that the nine mil would be substatially more powerful than the 22 (I think nile said about 2.5 times stronger in the video.) But bp968 is right, it's probably more powerful than nile said because of the longer barrel on the rifle he used rather than a standard 9 mm pistol. The longer the barrel the more acceleration the bullet can achieve because the moment a bullet comes out of the end of a barrel the energy from the explotion is no longer forced to go in a straight line and can be dispersed out into the air. With the longer barrel the bullet has more time to gain velocity before it exits the gun. Good question dawg
@@Zach-qs2bw you’re partly correct in your assumption. Penetrations usually depends on speed, impact surface area and material. However the 9mm was imparting enough energy to split the 3rd piece of wood and it…should have faster velocity than the .22lr with carbine barrel.
@@Zach-qs2bwas a dude that doesn't own a gun i seen this hapen i some videos of people testing diferent calibers and materials. 22 will go deeper on some materials than a 9mm. To be fair 9mm delivers much more force on impact and thats a good thing for the one shooting it.
Gotta add here that he used a hollow point bullet which of course is not meant for armor penetration. The moment he uses FMJ or AP there is a different impact.
Code Bullet was on the Safety Third podcast which Nile is usually a host on. I can't remember if Nile was on that particular episode though, he hasn't been hosting as regularly recently.
he made it harder but it was so thin it just made it brittle what you want isnt hardness but tensile strenght. youd probably get an even better result by somehow infusing that pressed wood with some resin or other polymer
One of the main reasons you were getting those diagonal cracks was because of the direction of the grain. If you want to get it even stronger you need to get a piece of wood with the grain running parallel to the wood instead of curving around like on the pieces you had. Also I loved the Bobby Duke merch and the code bullet crossover
Compressing and heating it like that should in theory negate grain in the final stage, the cracks probably formed during the squashing before the cellulose fused to itself, crushing it in a die should fix his issues
I think that keeping the pressure and temperatures lower would also help, so that the water isn’t boiling which will be causing air pockets inside the wood, and will allow the internal bonds can form more slowly and hence aide in keeping the wood roughly the same cross-sectional shape. Personally I’d try a range of pressures and temperatures from 50% boiling point to 100% in 10% increments at the ~700PSI, then similarly for 600, 500, 400, 300… Because the piece permanently deforms with the heating, the lower pressures should be maintainable so long as you don’t press it all in one go, and just press it up to the mark when it drops by eg 50PSI from your target.
Impressive throughout. New lab looks great! When you resized the wet piece on the bandsaw and found a potentially less-treated center, I wondered (a) If a .22 shot might be stopped by aiming closer to one of the end-grain edges of the single-layer wood (where we’d know the wood was fully treated), and (b) If narrower sections of wood might get full penetration by the chemicals & the wash. (So this would look like your initial rectangular blocks, but with end grain visible across the long faces.) 👍🏼
@@mikelarin8037I think too that the wood wasn't properly chemically treated. It could be easily tested by adding some colour into the chemical treatment (but because of it's high pH is unlikely the colour would survive) or adding colour into the washings
Nile, use a pressure cooker to make sure the wood is soaked 100%, pine is super soft, try using other hard wood as the first layer and then use hardened pine as a shock absorbent as a second third layer Great video 👍
I don't know that using a hard wood is an advantage here. Hard woods are hard because they are naturally more dense (more cellulose per unit volume). I think this process evens out that particular playing field.
Considering how well you did with an _imperfect_ version of the wood plate armor you made, I’d love to see what a perfect version of this wood plate armor could do. Also, imagine making actual Samurai armor (or something) out of this and tossing it into the past. It’d probably be venerated as some master warlock’s finest piece of magic!
Nile's gun licence really reminded me how young he is. He's been making these fun science videos since he was like 15, and now he has an entire lab at just 24! That's so wild to me.
No he’s like 31. In the safety third podcast he states he got his drivers license like 15-16 years ago so he’d have to be in his thirties. Also, there’s never been a person who’s 8 feet tall LOL
I have not once cared about celebrity appearances in shows or anything, but the moment I saw Code Bullet on a Chemistry-based channel, I actually jumped out of my seat a bit.
I think glue choice may have been a bigger factor that you thought it was. Sea shells are incredibly strong because it is alternating layers of ceramic & protein. Choosing a adhesive with more give may have prevented the second layer from blowing out by absorbing the energy elastically instead of requiring plastic deformation by the second piece
@@andrew3606 It's neither this or that. The "vest" of a bullet proof vest isn't bullet proof. The plate inside consists of many things, and none of those composite by themselves is bullet proof either.
Great project....as usual. It seems like not having the middle get the chemical wash is the main issue. I "wood" like to see you try this one more time, but confirm that the middle gets the chemical wash. With that huge investment in tools....why not?
Hey Nile! I used to work as a Materials Engineer in body armor manufacturing, and what you've experimentally found are some of the core principles of the materials science behind high-performance ballistic armor! Towards the end you mention that you could likely make something half the thickness and still stop a 9mm; take a look at the construction of NIJ level II or level IIIA soft armors: what you'll find is that they are *remarkably* thin. Turns out, high tensile strength is pretty much the number one reason that poly-aramids (Kevlar and the like) are such great armor materials.
What I think your pressed-wood plates would serve a better function as is as an up-armor for level II or level IIIA soft armors. This is usually done with a ceramic plate that provides the compressive strength to the initial impact zone that the fibrous soft armor is able to absorb as tensile load, but the densified wood could serve as a great substitute! If you want to get really deep into the armor classification side of things, you can also take a look at "back-face deformation" tests that are done to classify/test armors.
Drop me an email if you'd like and I can answer any questions! I'm not in the armor space any more but I have a ton of knowledge built up from the time when I was, and I would love to put it to good use somewhere :P
Edit: Someone made the great point that my email isn't super obviously available; it's on my channel (or here: timothy.mgregg@gmail.com) if anyone wants to reach out. I can't promise a prompt response, but I'll try!
Also someone pointed out I should have said "Level IIIA soft armor" not "Level III", thanks for the correction, I've edited above!
Ever thought of making a few videos yourself? I'd love Armor Material Science 101
great explanation, but i never trought i would see a body armor expert in a chemistry video comment section XD. anyway, have a wonderful day
cool
Make your own videos on armour
@@DSlydeagreed
RIP the dream of Nigel owning a “nugsmasher pro” would’ve been a truly legendary piece of lab equipment.
I was thinking the same thing 😂😂😂
lol if he smoked he could get good use out of it, too bad it was aluminum since it was cheaper than the other option.
He has a Nugsmasher Ultra. More power, more pressure, more nug smashing!
Wewd!! ❤
I really want one so it would have been cool to see one in use!
If you fancy revisiting this, try carrying out the first chemical wash step under vacuum. The wood contains lots of air, and the presence of the air within the cells prevents the chemicals penetrating through the whole cross section of the piece (thats why the centre looked dry). When pulling a vacuum, most of that air is removed. The vacuum can then be realased forcing the chemicals deep into the piece. In order to remove the chemicals, you can then place the treated piece under vacuum again to help draw out excess chemicals before washing. This is basically how they pressure treat timber with wood preservatives.
You explained this so well that I feel smarter now, even though I know I’m not
yeah I thought the same, vacuum would help to make the chemicals penetrate fully, also help when drying too
This is the way
@@GlazeonthewickeR you're better than that!
i was about to comment that in a less well explained way... i like watching videos where mashmallows go brrrr under vaccum, yup
I was using this as an ASMR while I was studying. And while I was spacing out a bit I heard you saying some pressing machine was almost thirty six thousand dollars. Bro I was horrified. Almost depressed for half a minute, until I saw the price again. Thank you for the great content.
He started this project almost 4 years ago! That's insane. People underestimate how long these chemistry videos take
It’s what makes me truly appreciate his videos when they come out because they are years of work just for internet strangers, but because he is passionate about his subject the videos are always amazing.
This was just barely a chemistry video honestly.
@@KakavashaForever this guy probably dont even know was dihydrogen monoxide is, and thinks NaCl is a dangerous chemical
@@KakavashaForever all in all you gotta appreciate the effort
@@dyvdwastakenYou don‘t need to go around telling people you have a small penis
So here's the thing. This is something you will see with weaves like carbon fiber or kevlar where a single layer will splinter, a double perpendicular will hold. You could significantly improve this by using thinner pieces and just stacking a bunch of them together because the impact has to keep changing direction instead of just cleaving through lines that line up behind it.
So if you ever want to revisit this project, take a bunch of thin boards (the thinner the better, like you can break it by looking at it wrong thin), treat them all, stack them in your press going horizontal, vertical, horizontal, vertical, squish them all together, cook them, and try shooting it. Squish them all together to basically make them stick together on force alone. L3 plates are like 1.5 inch thick which is basically what you should be aiming for as the higher bound on thickness, and who knows, maybe it'll work.
Another thing you should do with the bigger blocks you've treated is to take a hammer and chisel and break one of them apart before crush/cook (or you can shoot it with your pellet gun to make a hole down) and see if it's actually wet inside, there's a lot of different non-water liquids that can still stay behind in wood and judging from the dark color you might've been pushing out resin especially in pine that's known for holding a lot of it and crackling in fire because of it. If that's the case you didn't really have treated wood, you just had a weird hotpocket of treated wood with filling of compressed wood.
hotpocket of treated wood
Man you got ways of putting it. I agree with your suggestions though. This is really interesting to me and I would love a revisit.
Underrated comment, honestly best advice I’ve ever seen in a TH-cam comment
This shit would work. It’s straight up what he’s doing but using the logic of grapheme and Kevlar as your discussed. The layers splintering and dispersing the weight evenly. W comment
I think the problem is he's not heating/cooking it while compressing it.
Perhaps taking several of these panels made as you described, and stacking them with an elastic contact cement. Spread the energy out further with the same principal as ballistic glass
It’s also worth noting that you shot the wood with a 9mm PCC witch has a significantly longer barrel than a handgun, meaning that it had a lot more energy than a handgun. You did better than you thought. 👍🏻
Yep, 9mm out of a 16" barrel gives the 9mm as much knock down power as a .357 mag. The longer barrel drastically increases the speed of the projectile
@@bradleysmith9431omg knock down power hahahaha. That fake term is still being thrown around? Is this 2005?
At first my brain couldn't wrap around the idea that a longer barrel would give the bullet more energy, since it's the same amount of energy being put into the bullet. But then I realized a longer barrel means more time for the propellant gases to expand and impart their kinetic energy to the bullet.
@@DashsChannel Exaxtly right, and that’s the appeal of PCCs. It allows you to get a full powder burn and utilize all that the round have to offer.
@@Lumens1haha lol, everybody is ignoring you 🤣
41:48 Okay, but the fact that was just your second time shooting the gun and your aim was THAT good is impressive.
I saw the inside of the wood being dry from the start of the video. I do a lot of woodworking and have stabilized wood before which is kind of the same concept of what you were trying to do. You have to completely submerge the wood and pull a vacuum until it stops bubbling, then let it sit still submerged so the liquid can replace where the air came from in the wood.
Indeed. Probably he would have ended with a much stronger single piece of wood if he had applied vacuum.
Came to say that exact same thing. I would even go further and suggest to do a few cycles of vacuum to atmospheric pressure, or even higher pressure if possible. Considering that the timing of the reaction is important in order not to remove too much lignin, it is important to get the caustic soda and sulfites inside as fast as possible. Same thing for the rinsing afterwards.
I was going to leave this comment, with the caveat that pulling a vacuum on it will make the water boil, and having a solution of boiling sodium hydroxide under vacuum might be a little dangerous/impossible depending on the kind of vacuum pump.
What about pulling a vacuum through the end grain to draw the chemical bath through the wood continuously.
I was thinking thinner plates of wood.
I love that we get sentences like "It hit me in the head and I was genuinely really surprised" in the classic Nile Red monotone.
Timestamp?
@@blasttyrant3228 29:59
do you think we can get him to send these to demolitionranch?
As well as “i then got rid of the gun I probably shouldn’t have been running with”
That made me lose it 😭😭
My favorite is "And again, after fifteen hours of work, I was left with a wet block of wood." at 25:08 I don't know why it cracks me up so much lmao
I'm happy you tested a control experiment with normal wood, it really puts the strength of dense wood into perspective
There was a wrong assumption from the beginning on (several times mentioned, like after 24:00 ): "Not hard enough", "Hardness", etc. This feature does NOT stop bullets. The ability to completely take up an IMPULSE force and to equalize it over a big area, in contrast does.
@@dieSpinnt correct me if I'm wrong: a very hard material could be brittle and be unable to stop a bullet, right?
@@dieSpinnt Webster definition of the word hard: "not easily penetrated : not easily yielding to pressure"
I'd say hardness is a fine word to use here. Hard itself is a fairly vague word, and stuff that's hard on for example the Moh's scale might not be hard when judged by a different metric.
Given the definition for the word hard says "Not easily penetrated" and he's testing to see if a bullet can penetrate it, I don't see any problem with using the word hard or hardness to describe the situation.
@@lucam8758 The material you're describing is pretty much glass, and it has to be heavily reinforced to be able to stop bullets
I love that you document the failure process as you move along. The failure is what teaches.
You used a 9x19 carbine. The longer barrel will allow the bullet more velocity than a pistol, so the wood stopping it was even more impressive seeing as most armor ratings for 9x19 is based on hand-gun velocities.
exactly i was thinking that so even tho the first time he used a gun it blowed the back it actually didnt do so bad because its not a hand gun or a small gun
I think he should try 5x thinner layers and go 10x layers and laminate them similar to Kevlar.
I was going to say the same thing! So he stopped a 9mm at what is basically the maximum energy (or penetrating power if you prefer) that you can expect out of the caliber. Very impressive!
you'd think it would but longer doesnt always mean better.. in fact the 9x39 mm optimal barrel length is around 7 1/2 in. anything more you start to lose velocity to friction on the barrel rifling due to the gunpowder being used up prior to bullet leaving barrel
Yeah I was gonna mention that. I was really surprised.
I can't believe this video was almost 1 hour long. It felt like 15-20 minutes. Never felt bored at any point.
I dunno... there was the 15 mins i was , like, 'put 2 at 90 degrees opposition!'...
@@peterobinson3678cool
@@peterobinson3678 the whole time i was pissed cuz he would let it boil overnight where the psi dropped to 0. Obviously that means water left gaps and there's more room to squish it...
@@lemonke8132pfp says it all
Considering the dry center and how much difference stacking in layers makes, I really would like to see this done with thinner wood
You'd be shocked at the performance I think half the thickness but in 5 layers rather than 3 would give
Oh yes I was thinking about that in the first half of the video as he used these thick wood sheets
Exactly my thoughts. If he crushed them all together he might not even need glue
Maybe it would be better to use circular pieces, so you can give each layer a slightly different angle to diverse the orientation of the fibers.
smaller thinner layers most likely will provide worse results because it takes less strain to break a single thin layer thus as each layer breaks the entire thing looses its overall strength. The weakest link type of problem. This is easily seen in body armor. A single plate will greatly out perform multiple weaker plates.
EDIT: With 1 possible exception of changing the angle/direction of grains/threads. Now if that was possible on a flush/fused layering that would would be drastically better than having independent boards like in video. Having multiple boards going same direction though would be worse than a single sheet. So having varying angles of grains/threads as a single board is better than multiple boards obviously.
@@KaneCold yeah dude, wait yeah do you think there's an optimal way to do that? just rotate 90 degrees every slice? take 360 degrees and split it evenly amongst the layers? Something else? I'm not an engineer, i don't know shit.
As a carpenter from Germany, I appreciate the detailed look into wood hardening here. Wood swells differently in each direction-tangential, radial, and longitudinal-so pressing it causes more expansion at the sides. For instance, Fichte (spruce) swells 0.33 tangentially, 0.16 radially, and only 0.01 longitudinally, which is why pressing has little effect longitudinally but shows more tangentially and radially. This compresses the spaces between fibers and increases hardness.
When you mention the unpredictability of size after treatment, it makes sense since it depends on where the wood was cut from the log. Pieces closer to the center respond differently compared to those from the edges due to the varied structure across the log.
A recommendation: using thinner wood, around 5-10mm thick, could improve the process. After pressing, this would yield hardened sheets around 0.5-1mm thick, which is similar to what’s used in multiplex wood. By layering these, you could create a hardened multiplex with increased strength without excessive thickness. Additionally, I’d suggest avoiding U-shaped grain patterns in planks, as seen in the video. This grain orientation can introduce internal stress because, as the wood dries, the grain tends to flatten. That’s one reason why round cross-sections of logs often split horizontally-they relieve internal stress as they dry.
Thanks for sharing this process!
My favorite thing about your channel is that you show and discuss your failures. I think a lot of our society is geared towards avoiding failure or even mention of it, and that's a shame. Failure is an extremely important part of science, and life as a whole. Often, an important part of finding out what works involves finding out what doesn't work. You can't learn from your mistakes if you don't think about them and try to improve your process, and from a viewer's perspective, it makes it much more satisfying to see you succeed when we see how many times you tried things that didn't work like you expected. I appreciate that.
Sorry but i aint. Reading. Allat.
@@Noober_kingYimzzz
ong
@@Noober_kingdon't worry your low attention span is just what you should work on. You got this babe
Well said
I just want to thank you for not cutting the failed experiments, all of them are genuinely interesting to watch
Yeah seeing all the steps and reasoning after each successful or unsuccessful experiment is the best part
frfr
Failure and trying something else is a big part of science.
its a hook to keep you watching
Code Buullet doing literally anything besides being productive is hilarious to me, love the vibes of that man
Litterly no one asked about cb: never mind didnt watch the video fully sorry
does he show up at all i'm only 22 minutes in @@NbNgMOD
I am absolutely shocked Code Bullet was in this video lol, how TF did that even happen lol
40:17 there he is!
ok anyways shut up this is a public comment section@@NbNgMOD
Wait wait wait, is NO ONE gonna talk about how it says HIS HEIGHT IS 249 CM in the shooting license!! THATS LIKE 8 FOOT!!
that dude is as tall as a fucking building
He can dunk on Shaq
@@mastrorickdamn, but dunking on the 45-50 yo guy is brutal tho
Yeah along with the 9/9/99 birthdate and “sepia” eye color 😂 he’s a fruit fly
cm is short for Canadian meter and there are quite a few comments talking about it
I'm really surprised that Nile didn't use a vacuum chamber to help saturate the wood with the chemicals. I think that if the entire block was saturated, it would help with the layers bonding and causing less splitting when shot.
When he cut the wood and it was dry in the middle...this was my thought. A vacuum chamber would make this process far more reliable.
Either that or pressure cook it
I saw this process being used to pickle cucumbers within like a minute
My thought exactly. Like the pickle from Action Lab
So fun coming to write a comment and finding exactly the same already here and even citing the exact same pickle video I was thinking off when he cut the side 😛
If the inside of the wood is still dry, maybe you should try using a vacuum to suck all of the air out of the wood while it is submerged in the chemicals so that when the vacuum is released, the holes from the air are filled with the solution. This process is often used to stabilize wood by filling it with a resin which hardens with heat.
I had the same idea
I used to work in a treatment facility for power poles and this is exactly how our process was. The wood would first be placed into a tank under vacuum to remove moisture, drained, then the tank would be filled with chemical and pressurized to force the chemical deep into the wood.
Exactly this!!! The pressure pot is commonly used by knifemakers to make much harder knife scales (the wood handles) by drawing the air out of the tubes in the middle of the wood allowing it to be replaced with the hardening liquid. This experiment also needs to be much more scientific with a non-soaked, non-crushed original, a crushed, non-soaked control, and maybe a second option like epoxy used on pre-densified but untreated wood and also on un-crushed wood before crushing - this probably wouldn't work as well, but that's what experiments are for!
That would require a much more complicated setup. Pulling a vacuum on a heated, frothing, caustic liquid would surely make a big mess and kill your pump rather quickly.
Was looking for a comment like this. Totally agreed. Wood would not just soak in chemicals. @@Glenn_Rainwater
Amazing video, thank you. I can think of four suggestions to potentially enhance it.
1. Grain orientation
The pine you used was from a younger tree or cut closer to the center of the tree. If you buy higher quality wood it should have all layers more parallel and straight.
2. Deeper penetration of chemicals
While soaking the wood in the solution you could use your vacuum chamber. Then before repeating the same but with water, you would blow pressurised air to blow in the end grain to replace the solution with air (over a sink or preferably in the sanding chamber).
3. More but thinner layers
Not accounting for any other factors but using 2 layers with perpendicular grain orientation being 5x stronger, extrapolates to 2.5x the strength when cutting a single piece in half (by height) and gluing back perpendicularly. In general using more thinner pieces is vastly better than a single piece of combined thickness. Coincidentally, this would also help with chemicals reaching all the way through. Also note why using 3 layers is so vastly superior to using only 2. It's because the thirds layer's orientation prevents the second layer exploding in the bullet direction. Hence the bullet expands and destroys only first layer which has the freedom to break towards the shooter.
4. Replacing water with epoxy
I'm the least confident how the water would affect this one but here it goes. You should obviously keep repeating using water until satisfied, but before the big squeeze, you could blow the water out again with pressurised air and then back to the vacuum chamber with epoxy instead. You will end up destroying whatever container you use for this last step. You will also need to saw off the epoxy around the wood so it's best to pay a visit to a local woodworker.
I'm also curious of
- How the squished and dried wood layers would stick to one another without the glue?
- What is the density of the finished product and how does it compare to current military standard vest inserts? Is it lighter? Even with epoxy?
- If it would be optimal to use many many alternatingly perpendicular layer as close to thin as paper as possible?
- Is alternatingly a word?
I see an hour long video and think "no way am I gonna watch through it all", but you keep me glued to the phone and fill my head with answers to questions I never head and questions I might never get the answers to. For all your effort, thank you.
I think a pressure chamber instead of vacuum would be more effective. It's not so much air that's the problem, it's the fibers in the wood.
Or perhaps pulling a vacuum and then increasing the pressure would work best. Removing any possible air and then forcing the chemicals into the wood.
@@oriontherealironman It seems like its a similar process to making stabilized wood, in which case you really do need a vacuum chamber, you pull the air with the vacuum chamber then when you release the vacuum its replaced with the chemicals
the vacuum chamber would very much boil the chemical solution so that would not work.
I think he should compress the pieces together instead of using glue. Will the heat chemically bind celulose from separate planks?
That way, he can do a four or five layer block without being more glue than wood.
Man, now I'm scared he won't ever get back to this project. I'd be so disappointed.
Really cool. Experimented with a bulletproof shield and this opened up a lot of questions. I think it's clear from my experiment and combining what I've seen here is that no matter how dense or malleable the initial surface is, it still requires something to flex as a backplate or to condense the material. Well done Nile, breaking the box of conventional thinking to make innovations a reality.
Great video!
Couple suggestions. Looks like you're not using fully cured wood. Meaning, the virgin wood still has a lot of moisture left in it, preventing the solution from fully saturating. A few things to try: fully cure the wood by kiln drying it, and testing with a moisture meter. Also, it might be helpful to submerge the wood, then apply a vacuum (to remove any air trapped from inside), THEN apply heat.
Also, as someone else suggested, using thinner virgin wood then compressing the layers together in the press en mass, could potentially achieve a overall thinner product with the same (or similar) strength profile. Think hyper-dense plywood.
100% this! The untreated bit in the middle was probably due to water not being displaced by the chemicals. Looking at the splintered wood it shows the inside is pale which implies untreated. Would be really interesting to see wood which was treated all the way through.
Yeap! My thoughts too! Self-sabotage with too thick pieces. Except I don't think it was water in the middle - it was air! So a vacuum chamber would have solved it. But regardless, the chemical treating would be made much easier with thinner pieces. So prioritize thinner pieces over using a vacuum chamber. But there's another very important benefit too! Since the wood splits along the grain, alternating the grain directions results in the the force of the impact being spread over a much larger area. Since the bullet-stopping effect comes from how much area of the wood that is made to absorb the energy, having many thin layers of alternating directions should improve this material by several hundred percent!
You already said everything I wanted, so have a like and a comment to bump it up
Maybe saturating the wood totally in vacuum chamber
in practical application, i feel like wood like this would be best used overtop of thin metal basically in the same was as ceramics.
The only TH-camr who can make an hour feel like five minutes. Thank you Nigel for the awesome and engaging content.
Dang! I didn't even realize this was an hour-long video!
Same here.
yes when I keep skiping it XD
I thought it was only 20 minutes.
don't forget Primitive Technology
You were correct that your solution was not saturating the center of the wood. You can use a vacuum to get it to penitrate fully.put your whole soaking set up in a vacuum and hold vacuum for the same length of time it takes to remove all air from the wood
Won't that make the vacuum solution boil off?
@@NorthBus you can always pull a light vacuum so the pressure drops to encourage air out of the wood, while also being higher than the boiling point of the solution.
I was thinking the cooking stage in a pressure cooker would help with penetration, maybe soaking in a vacuum then cooking in a pressure cooker.
This wood is FUCKING RAW
Use pressure to drive the solution into the wood?
What I really like about this channel is that you don't only just display you successful attempts. But the progress and failed attempts that brought you to your final conclusion. Its entertaining and scientific about it.
Nile, have you looked into how they industrially pressure treat wood? Pieces are placed in a giant vacuum chamber and heated to reduce moisture content and then placed in a pressurized chamber filled with the liquid chemicals they want to force into the wood pores, also at temperature. I think if you added some vacuum drying (to encourage the wood to soak more liquid) and pressurized chemical cleaning you would get the chemicals to penetrate considerably deeper into the wood grain.
I feel like that would be out of his budget.
@@derpmaster2732 yeah but i think thats how the paper made the test
@@derpmaster2732 eh, you can make a vacuum chamber for relatively cheap and adding a hot plate shouldn't be the hardest addition. For the small sizes he's working with it shouldn't be super difficult or expensive
@@LavaDonutsI am looking for some plans for a relatively cheap vacuum chamber, got any hot tips? Thanks.
For the initial step you could use a similar setup woodworkers use to stabilize wood. Pull a vaccum with the piece of wood in the solution, the vacuum will pull all of the air out and the solution in. Not expensive at all.
Just a thought: the store bought wood is kiln dried. It changes the lignin. Air dried but not totally dried (like seasoned firewood for instance) should take to treatment better. Maybe even reduce layer count, but that last part is just a guess. Nice work!
i also remember him having to pressurize air out of wood when he did his translucent wood video to fully penetrate it, which probably would have helped for this experiment too.
@@midnlghtmoonthat was resin iirc, and this is water, so it’s probably not as important
@@nopenoperson8964I think it is actually fairly important. It would definitely help the wood uptake the chemical mixture much better. Coincidentally this is how you would treat wood for certain applications.
Also the vaccuum chamber might come in handy getting the liquid all the way through the wood.
Hi Nigel!
Just some potential suggestions to the process :
1) if the boiling process is done in a vacuum, it would force the basic solution into the cellulose tubes of the wood. This should eliminate any potential variable of the middle parts of the wood not being treated by the solution. The washing can also take place in a vacuum to force the solution out
2) if you compress the wood slabs together (the horizontal pieces and the vertical pieces together in the stainless steel press) the remaining lignin should in theory bond both pieces of wood even stronger than an artifical glue bond
Seems neat to me!
@@jaxtvgaming228 I agree. Although I also must admit that those steps might not be the easiest, especially when working with a vacuum
Just came to make this exact comment 😂. thx for putting it way better than I ever could have 😊
3) use more horizontal/vertical layers, i.e. half the thickness of each slab, but twice the number of layers in total
Also, he can use 1 to 2 mm height size compressed wood and compact together many sheets, that'll probably homogenized the system due to the fact that a thiner slab in this case can be less prone to critical structure failure.
Old mate really thought nobody would question 249cm tall on the gun licence hahaha
If you ever decide to go back and revisit this, I think one of the first things I would want to look into is why when you sliced through that one block of wood the interior looked so much different than the exterior. That really makes me think that the chemical processing steps may not be fully converting the inner portion of the wood in the way that they're supposed to, so even though it is compressing roughly the same way it should, it may not be able to actually form the additional bonds between fibers the way it is supposed to.
This would also explain why it still seems to be delaminating in much the same way that ordinary wood fibers would do, which seems a bit suspicious if there actually was substantially increased bonding between the compressed fibers like the paper suggested should happen.
(you also didn't appear to do much in the way of testing with the unprocessed wood for comparison. I'm curious what would happen if you just took the raw wood and put it through the same pressure/heat treatment, without the chemical steps, and how it would compare.)
If you look at the process of compression, you see that the middle section isn't compressing as well as the rest, maybe hinting at problems with chemical penetration.
Yep. Even in testing, the inside of the wood was a significantly different colour. Appears that the chemicals didn't leach. I think it would be better to use thinner pieces of wood so that they leach completely. Then crosshatch like ply in the press. Doing it without glue would also be a good test as to whether the hydrogen bonds can occur between seperate pieces (and therefore test whether they occur at all).
Maybe its pressure treated wood? Making few small holes to the slab could help to make the slab all the way moist like 2 5mm holes in both endgrains
Not only would using thinner pieces of wood help ensure the absorption of the chemicals throughout the whole slice, but I believe cross-hatching 5 thinner pieces of "bulletproof wood" would also make it much much stronger due to more pieces being cross-hatched. If he did that, I feel like it could potentially stop a 5.56
@@beaugrylls7771even thinner pieces would be problematic as wood fibers absorb length wise. Shorter pieces ;)
The trick would be to use multiple layers of thinner wood with each layer having their grain perpendicular to each other. Don't use glue to bond them together, use the press to add several layers at a time, just using the pressure to bond them. Also even though the wood doesn't expand as much perpendicular to the grain direction, you should have the wood enclosed on all sides, especially if you do alternating layers of wood.
And the thinner layers of wood would be penetrated more completely by the chemicals, too.
Also it may be interesting to try alternating layers of different wood species, and make a sort of composite armor.
but if it's enclosed on all sides the liquid cannot get out
@@kingjojojo1leave it open at the corners
@kingjojojo1 Leave a few small holes, the liquid will pressed out.
Bravo!
I come from a structural engineering background and this documentary was amazing!
I thought it would be worth sharing some observations I made.
COEFFICIENT OF MOISTURE ABSORPOTION - 35:40
Moisture permeates a material at a certain rate. If you remove the wood from the solution too soon, the wood does not become fully saturated. At 35:40, the difference in color could be indication that the material near the exterior is saturated(wet), while the inner material is unsaturated (dry looking). If you measure the weights before and after, you should see a difference in weight because the material has absorbed different amounts of the solution. At 47:33, you noted that the material feels stiffer. This could be because you allowed the material more time to absorb more moisture, thus becoming stiffer.
WARPING DUE TO TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCES - 44:35
Materials are known to expand or contract as the temperature changes. If the temperature is not uniform, the expansion/contraction will be uneven and will lead to thermal distortions/warping. I suspect the exterior of the wood starts to cool down while the interior stays warm for an extended period of time. Since the exterior is cooler than the interior, this might be playing a role in the warping. If I remember, an autoclave could be used to help keep the temperatures uniform, which would help mitigate warping.
P.S. Also note that the wood and NaOH and Na2SO3 solutions have different coefficients of thermal expansion. The wood and the permeated solution might be expanding/contracting differently as the temperature changes.
POISSON EFFECT - 33:40
When you compress most materials, the material tends to expand elsewhere. Compress a penny and its thickness decreases, but its diameter increases. Compress other objects, and the outcome is almost a wider result.
Very clever in using tooling to wall off the wood and partially prevent the expansion. I suspect it is that expansion that was causing some of the cracks that were observed during production.
DELAMINATION - 16:20
Imagine stacking multiple pancakes. When you compress the pancakes, you will see almost the same behavior as in 16:20. Is this delamination occurring? I suspect this is not good because that means you have compromised the strength of the wood, which is irreversible. Your clever use of tooling to wall off the wood during compression was great in preventing some of the delamination.
Factors important to ballistic tolerance
Density - Some modern military tanks are equipped with radioactive uranium armor because uranium is one of the more denser materials in the periodic table. A higher density is preferred because it means the projectile has to dig through more material to make it across.
Thickness - The plate/wood needs to be sufficiently thick to resist the impact. It was great to see that 7 plates of wood was reduced to 3 plates to resist the bullet.
Good stuff!
underrated comment
EXCELLENT.
Indubitably.
How the wood was dried should also affect how it takes up the solutions used. Almost all commercially sold lumber is kiln dried but standards for rate of drying and target moisture content vary from place to place. There will always be some minimum amount of moisture left, so “roasting” it before soaking should help. (Naturally seasoned wood is preferable but takes quite some extra prep time.) Before and after weighing as you say would be helpful.
I get that Our Hero has limited engineering skills (despite him realizing that mechanically restricting the wood during compression was a Good Idea) and the following engineering solution might be beyond him, but heating and compressing the wood (after ensuring full penetration of the solution) under vacuum would help extract more of the solution and assist in compacting and cross linking the fibers.
Your pancake stacking analogy echoes a thought of mine; the “diagonal” cracks to me looked like they followed the pre-treatment grain of the wood. Obtaining lumber with the grain perpendicular to the larger faces of the wood (e.g. 4x2 as opposed to 2x4) can be challenging but might yield better results.
(Minor nit: I think you meant to say that tank armor uses *non*-radioactive (depleted) uranium.)
I love the comments on these videos that bring up things the creator doesn’t know or didn’t consider.
Modern tank armour use depleted uranium
It seems like the primary issue is with the brittleness of the wood itself, the back shattering is reminiscent of an issue on older tanks known as "spalling", where the metal absorbs the impact of the round but fragments on the other side, creating shrapnel without penetrating.
This issue was found to be down to the brittleness of the metal, and with how dry and brittle that wood appears to be, along with the fact that every structural failure seen with the wood involves the back blowing out so dramatically.
Perhaps more time under more pressure at a slightly reduced heat would result in a more uniform melding of the grain in the wood and in turn a less brittle, more resilient material.
It may also be worth while applying some sort lamination to the material, or even a thin steel/titanium lining glued to the back.
I love how in chemistry there seem to be so many moments where you proceed in the experiment based on "Color changed. Things happened. ONWARD"
I f-cked around, I found out, I'm recording it, and now let's kick it up a notch!
Just remember that stuff is in fact a technical chemistry term
@@EmiStar070 "Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down." - Adam Savage, Mythbusters
@@dominikbeitat4450 it's science if you record it!
well that's basically how it works
colour changed so chemically something happened
(probably)
Some ideas for future improvements:
-use thinner pieces of wood to get complete penetration of the base to dissolve all lignin and hemicellulose
-use a completely square (or SAPI shaped, lol) steel cage to crush them
-add multiple of the thin plates alternating and crush them together to have one glue-free plate (hence closing off both sides to avoid crushing o both ends)
alternatively you can look at different solution methods like organosolv (methanol at ~180C and 30bar) or ionosolv ([Et3N][HSO4] at ~130C and 30bar).
also: composites! if this is intended as armor, he could incorporate a thin metal sheet - the wood absorbs and breaks up the bullet, the metal stops any fragments from exiting
Something to also consider is trying to keep the grain on the wood as symmetrical as possible. That will help with even pressing the wood. It might also be worth using a pressure vessel to treat the wood. The extra pressure would force the chemical deeper into the wood. That has common wood as treated. It's also how resins are forced into wood. A final note, pre spread the wood glue, to prevent air pockets.
@@lit_for_20 yeah a piece of abrasion resistant steel or titanium would help a lot
@@jonathanbates9928pressure or vacuum?
ALSO! he should "Stabilize" it. A process that uses resin and a vacuum chamber to turn soft objects hard.
I was 100% sure the dry middle part was going to be foreshadowing for some critical issue that would fix everything but it just, didnt get mentioned at all 😭
yeah, I actually wonder if it was a big thing though. Makes me wonder if the wood in the study was well seasoned and dry first. IM gonna do a google search on getting stain to penetrate all the way through wood. Also were the depth dimensions he used the same as the study? because that could change everything, because even if the outer shell is fully treated, he's then potentionally mixing that outer shell with the untreated inner shell, and that could throw off the whole chemical fusion aspect. the water is assumedly the only thing in the treated part by the time he was pressing, so it's not transfering over the first solution he used while pressing even. I wonder what would happen if he cut it into thin strips adding up to the same depth of starting wood, and then pressed them like that. One time with all the grain going the same direction, and one version with them criss crossed(even though that's not what was cited in the study, we might get some data from that)
I absolutely think it played a good part kinda a weird oversight
I wonder if drilling very small holes through could help disperse the liquid through the whole block. I imagine it would affect the structural integrity of the final product but it would be worth a shot if the idea is revisited someday.
@@Preston241 It might not, considering the fusing process it is supposed to later go through when compressed/heated. You might be on to something!. Space the hooles a little less than the distance he observed it soaking through when he cut it? i think you're on to something worth trying.
I also thought about the pressing process eventually permeating deeper into the wood, however, since the wood was washed several times and soaked, the solution would not remove the lignin and hemicellulose deeper in the wood.
I think a reasonable solution would be to pressure treat the wood, instead of soaking it. Or prior to that, attempt soaking it for much longer.
Or perhaps soaking/pressing multiple thinner layers, gluing them together with the grains reversed until a net desired thickness is achieved, and then try shooting it! I would also say that since wood glue is designed for wood and not designed for densified wood, I would also experiment with different types of glue if issues continued to persist
I have that same Ruger 10/22 rifle. It’s three years older than me (manufactured 1986) and it still shoots like a champ. Cycles like a dream, never jams. They’re great little guns.
Add pressure to the initial treatment. When telephone poles are treated, they are extremely pressurized while being treated so the chemicals actually reach the center. When the wood was cut in your video, it showed how dry it was in the middle. The middle of the wood is the densest so the hot chemicals at normal pressure wont be able to fully soak the wood.
Agreed. In a pressure cooker? Or a vacuum chamber? It was definitely not treated in the middle. Amazing how screwing up shows you what the problem is! Now it’s up to you to find a solution. (Vacuum/pressurize)
My thought was doing it in a vacuum! They do the same thing when they’re impregnating epoxy in wood to harden it.
@@Jrskeetprohe obviously had to start chemical part with vacuum to make it penetrated inside the wood or make thinner plates. and then press bunch of thin pieces in plywood fashion
And another thing would be to make it bigger, it needs more area to spread out the impact of the bullet.
And honestly, using the pressurized method plus layered, while it is not something that would be good for body armor, making things like furniture, like a table top/desk top like that could actually make the idea of 'flipping up a table to protect yourself' actually work.
As a young electronics student and aspiring entrepreneur, I appreciate you showing all of the painstaking trial and error, so I can see that "the process" is never smooth even for people much smarter than me!
Also, I think that the wood appearing to be dry in the middle is very significant. Looking at the shot just after you cut it open we can see that your solution penetrated more deeply at the end grain sides. Refer back to (nano?)scopic images of the wood grain, it seems to me that the solution can more easily pass through the tubes than it can through the walls.
I think this experiment could be drasticically improved if the the entire wood sample was saturated in the middle as well because I imagine that the saturated exterior is getting really really dense while the center remains to be just crushed wood - essentially forcing the bulletproof wood to be bulletproff just on the exterior.
If you come back to this, you ought to find a way to pull the solution through the tubes (or let the wood saturate for weeks if thats possible). I think you may have been on the right track with your first trial with the end of the wood being out of solution because the pressure differential between the hot solution and ambient atmospheric pressure may have helped "pushed up" more solution deeper into the tubes.
Once again, thank you, and I hope to see you revisit this with your clever ideas!
Cheers,
Joshua
yep, my thoughts exactly!
I was also wondering that. If the solution didn’t fully penetrate it would make sense as to why the pellet and .22LR could go through.
He should submerge the wood in a vacuum chamber in order to fully saturate it.
my thoughts exactly
@@chrisdib9269
@@chrisdib9269 Water boils at ambient temperature in a vacuum.
As a woodworker, this is incredibly fascinating.
The first thing I thought is I totally want to turn a cheap 2x4 into a fingerboard for a guitar. What's really interesting is the potential to mold the wood as it's formed. You could potentially compress scrap wood into 'hardwood' into a specific contour or add other features at the same time. Hell, I'm curious how it'd look if you just stuck a quarter under the wood in the press.
hmm, same, though of turning it into a pickaxe or something, would be kinda cool
Try it with Hemp. Henry Ford built a Hemp Composite bodied model-A and demonstrated its durability by shooting it with a .30 cal machine gun. After which, he walked up, wiped the powder burn and fragments off, and proclaimed, "See folks! Not a Dent! And hardly a Scratch!" But then Stanley steel, Standard oil, and Hurst timber, made sure ol Henry, "got with the program."...
#HempCrete #HempCeramics
I wonder what ol Henry's recipe was.
The reason why the water used to soak the wood is dark brown, is probably because of tannins that get removed from the wood when you soak it.
Finally, we know what Code Bullet has been doing, shooting wood in the woods with Nilered.
This is somehow weirder the further it goes on
Now we know why he never uploads. He's just too busy helping Nigel test how hard his wood is.
Together with Emplemon and Barely sociable
Code Bullet, now with real bullets.
I am not familiar, but looking at their gaming channel, I presume this is a joke because their name has bullet in it. I will return if an actual gamer appears in the video to shoot the wood.
I used t make bulletproof windows for humvees - you have hard layer (glass), soft layer (vinyl), hard layer, soft layer etc with 5 hard layer laminates. The hard layer spreads the energy, soft one absorbs it etc. May be helpful if you carry on!
I’ve seen a lot of broken shit on numbers but never a window so good job😂
I feel like even a thin layer of Kevlar in-between the wood would make a huge difference. Kevlar is pretty crap at stopping bullets but with a hard ceramic plate it works great. Which that wood is basically the same thing. Probably much more expensive to make the wood but cool as heck
a layer of kevlar behind the 2nd layer of wood could probably do it
Love that when Nile was talking about setting up the grain of the two pieces of wood perpendicular to each other, I was nodding along because that's what we do in sewing when we want to make sure a flat-lined piece of fabric is as strong as possible. Scrolling to the comments to see people in other industries chiming in about the same thing being useful in other types of construction and armor is delightful!
Yup. Thats how plywood works and why it's stronger than the same cut of homogeneous wood. Also when stacking pallets or loading trucks you use the same or principle to make the load far more stable. One of those simple but incredibly useful buts of knowledge. I didn't realize it applied to sewing, so you taught me something today. Thanks!
I also didn't know it applied to sewing, but epoxy/fiberglass bullet proof armor is made the same way, also, carbon fiber bikes which is just epoxied carbon fiber, applies the same principles tactically, depending on the stress points.(continuous fibers are strongly circumstantially)
this idea is used in many different things, like plywood for structural strength, or kevlar for strengthening actual bulletproof armor
another fun fact, kevlar is actually a fabric and is easily cut by scissors
Shoutout to this guy for taking 3 years to make this video
I worked on this exact project for about a year! I did it for a science fair project a few years ago. I used a 20 ton hydraulic press that I got for just $100. One of the tough parts like you mentions was heating it while being pressurized for so long. I got it to stop a 9mm from 10 feet away at about 1/4 inch wood. Thank you for this video, it was great to see someone else go through this process.
Did you use the same steps as nile did or did you use a different kind of wood ?
Because a 9mm is a significantly stronger bullet. And judging by the efforts nile did, it is really hard to make a bullet stopping wood
@@VICIOUS1209. significantly stronger bullet than what? NileRed also tested against a 9mm and was successful.
@@tracyh5751 with a way thicker piece of wood
I really wonder if using smth like Oak instead would do much better against a ballistic projectile
1/4 inch thick armor wood or 1/4 inch of penetration?
Nigel is kind of like the barn cat that only visits you a few times a year and makes you very happy every time
Absolutely underrated comment, imo.
What are you even trying to say
@@superstar5123he's kinda like that barn cat, ya know.
he got dat barn ket in him
Literally just saw the same comment under a wendigoon vid
Something to keep in mind also is that you used rifles to fire the rounds and not handguns. The longer barrels allow for more velocity to build up for the bullets. So you were making it even harder for yourself, and it still worked out. Very cool stuff!
Canadian laws make it really awkward do do anything with handguns unfortunately. They can't even be sold or transferred between owners anymore.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252Canada gun laws are big stupid
Only ways he could have used a handgun for the tests would be to either:
1. Go to a range where they'd allow him to test it
or 2. Own land in a rural area and submit papers to make it a personal range
Easiest to just use a rifle honestly
@@TrilliumGrandiflorum480Turdeau is a subhuman tyrant.
@TrilliumGrandiflorum480 wasn't really criticising it, I know canada's gun laws are all sorts of dumb. I am in the US, so I don't know the specifics up there. Just thought it was good context to add that is not mentioned in the video about the barrel lengths.
I really hope you read this comment because I have two very important points to make that I hope you don’t skip over.
Number one, you are correct in asserting that 9mm is typically fired from a handgun, but you didn’t seem to notate the fact that shooting it out of a rifle length 16 1/2 inch barrel, would significantly increase its velocity. Meaning, if it had been fired from a handgun, it very likely wouldn’t have shattered the back piece of wood.
Secondly, it seems as though you pay third parties, a lot of money to machine equipment for you that you could very likely get from other TH-camr/Engineers living in Canada, which would very likely be more apt to help you with your projects for a much lower price.
I recommend looking up and getting in contact with the TH-camr known as “AvE”. He’s a legend among TH-cam engineers, and is rumored to have formally been an engineer for NASA.
Regardless of his previous credentials, you can tell from watching his videos alone, that the man is a genius.
An hr long NileRed video? Best Halloween ever.
[insert blank comment here]
Yup😊
@@wagnerramosmidichannelabso514shut up NERD
It's not Halloween for me
Um technically it’s 59:37 ☝️🤓
i like how his script always makes him sound like hes reading off a chemistry procedure paper
this will be the most thorough explanation of opening a box you will hear in your life
he shouldve used walnut, and along the grain, rather against the grain
He has such a particular cadence to his speech; I feel like you could set your watch to his pauses and upward lilts
@@jupiter_adept his voice is so intriguing he made a video about it
@@karet2490what video?
@@pearlspearlspearIs I don't remember thr name
you did a really good job at making the scientiffic process genuinely interesting to watch. i can only imagine how tedious it was to squish all those pieces of wood by hand like that
Not sure about that, feels like this lacked any scientific process at all.
@@cda32 Nigel consistently explained the thought process used to hypothesize what could fix issues he observed, which is the cyclical hypothesis-experimentation-evaluation loop that is seen in the scientific method.
The edges of the wood still expanded -> maybe there's something wrong with how it was compressed? -> evaluation of video footage leading to discovery of the top plate shifting -> maybe center it better and use larger block to keep it more stable? -> worked a bit better, but it still expanded a bit on one side -> maybe use a steel template to prevent the wood from expanding? -> the wood didn't noticeably expand
@@cda32 the process of trial and error is the scientiffic process. you test a hypothesis, record the results, then you try again improving the process each time. this is how we end up with wood armor one day lmao. maybe not, but still an interesting project to me at least
the bulletproof wood thing is cool, but what's really cool to consider here would be making instruments from this wood with how old growth wood with the tighter ring growth changes the sound so drastically
I'd like to see a master craftsman get their hands on this stuff and make a guitar/violin/w.e out of this stuff
Can we just take a moment to appreciate just how insanely persistent nigel is? Like dude has spent YEARS on a task
Edit: wow thanks for 1.4k likes I didn’t expect this
A casual Runescape player
He does this all the time on multiple projects at the same time- and not even all of them make it into videos. Nigel is truly just an absolute monster of dedication
His name is nigel?
@@lindboknifeandtool Yes
You see the insane lab he's setting up with all the money he's making from people watching him do those tasks? It's kind of a motivating factor.
Hi Nile! Here's a few ideas you should try to improve the results:
1) Use a pressurized stainless steel container to remove air and force in the chemicals into the wood. You can also seal it in such a way so the chemicals will be pumped from one side of the block and exit from another. Most likely, you should pump it from the side and use a solenoid electric pump from a small coffee machine. It is stainless and plastic and can give 15 bars of pressure. You can also use the same container to hold the wood while under the press so it won't deform at all from the beginning to the final result.
2) Use more blocks of wood stacked on top of each other.
3) Cut the block into thinner sheets and rotate them to alternate fiber alignment. Try different patterns, like, 0, 90, 0, 90 or 0, 45, 90, 45, 0 etc. Try stacking like 100 layers. Do it before the press.
4) Completely lock the material in a mold and apply more pressure 100% of the time.
5) Vacuum dry the final or intermediate result and pressurize it with epoxy resin to fill in the remaining gaps. Not sure if this will even help but that's feels very intuitive to do lmao
I agree (except for the resin part that is probably more harm than good), i would use some different wood with a tighter grain. Unfortunately the good couple centuries old pine is no longer available for more than sample sizes. If I could manage to make or find a press for cheap I would definitely try to make a few
I feel like a vacuum chamber could work really well to force the solution into the wood, kind of like how instant pickles are made
If I remember correctly high pressure helps to force a liquid into something as well
Thick wood takes awhile to soak all the way through. The issue is by the time the inside is treated and the lingnin is broken down sufficiently on the inside, the outside will be too broken down.
To fix you can use thinner pieces of wood, press them down into essentially sheets and then glue them back together into the thickness of the piece youve used in the video. In addition you can alternate grain directions between sheets and have a very strong piece of wood.
Yeah you're basically making a carbon fiber laminate at that point. Seems like it would have a lot of potential. Nile needs to do some more reading and come at this with some more sophistication
@@chir0pter the potential for strength if optimized would be a really interesting follow up video imo with very little input of time and effort.
The initial cooking time might need some adjustments, but i think taking thinner slices of wood is definitely a good way to improve it.
You might even be able to press-cook two or three thin sheets at the same the same time by using thin steel spacers, though that might cause issues with the heat transfer...
@@primedialgaYou may not need to space them, just press cook them into their final configuration, and maybe confine it in both directions. That way you get the laminates cooking into a single piece rather than relying on another type of glue. You'd have to solve drainage for the pressing procedure when it's confined all around but I imagine that's as simple as creating some thin openings in the corners.
Honestly I think some of his projects should be put in museums, if they were his ideas but unfortunately somebody else had come up with them
If you ever revisit this, I would recommend putting the wood in a vacuum chamber while in the solution and then releasing the pressure to fill it with liquid, the TH-cam channel Peter Brown has some good videos where he demonstrates this to stabilise wood with resin.
I’d also recommend trying to press the two plates of wood together rather than glueing them. Hydrogen bonds holding them together would be much stronger!
Great video man!!
I thought about pressing two wood plates at the same time too, maybe that could've made a diffrence aswel
He actually does exactly that in his video about the transparent wood
Some bullet proof materials, notably glass, actually benefit from having a layer of glue between them as the glue absorbs energy and turns it into heat. It might be that Nile just needs a better, purpose made glue for this.
Was going to suggest the same thing for getting the treatment liquid into the center of the wood blocks
Aren’t hydrogen bonds what create surface tension in water? Seems very weak compared to wood glue, which is stronger than the wood surrounding it.
Thank you nile. Been a fan of you since I was a teen (16 or 17). Im 23 now. You ignited my love for chemistry. I love your content. Its a like a gift whenever you upload. Wish i had a friend like you!
Blood of my blood 🇿🇦
He acknowledged me😁😁 Thanks Nile. Hope you have a great day.
@@-N0V4- My fellow South African. Whoever you are, you are super cool if you're watching this video
Forgetting the amazing bulletproof aspect, imagine a floor made of tiles of this wood, it looks downright manageable and beautiful.
But cutting it would be hard on blades.
Yeah! Might not stain
Scratchproof hardwood, in literally any shape… holy shit.
@@MegaBrokenstar Hexagons, hexagons are the best-agons,
@@NoahSteckleyyou could pre-stain the wood before densifying it, or stain it during the chemical treatment which would likely result in a perfectly full-depth stain. Alternatively, the results of processing are already pretty beautiful and highlight the grain nicely. I’m actually kind of excited about this material as hardwood flooring and especially as trim and shoe moulding. Not to mention tabletop, workshop, and kitchen applications. Imagine an entire dining room table that is usable as a cutting board without the slightest trace of damage. The idea of a relatively cheap to manufacture scratchproof and dentproof wood product is tantalizing.
Nile , if you’re living in Canada. Go to a sports store, and purchase a secondhand (stiff snowboard). Cut it into two pieces so you have 12 inches bye 6 inches and a second one of 12“ x 6“. Drill quarter inch holes 1 inch apart down the 12 inch sides close to the edge then take the second piece and repeat the process. Now think of your running shoes on how you lace them and use that same process on binding the two 12inch links together.
On the 6 inch side, go 3 inches in and drill a hole, and on the other 6 inches (second piece) drill a hole . Take a string and holding the two pieces on your chest (after you Sewn them together) And measure out the amount of string it takes to go around your neck and connect both holes drilled into the 2-6 inch sides . When hung around your neck, the two -12 inch sides protrude from your sternum which will deflect a pointed incoming round. It will deflect and possibly save your life. Bullets (full metal jacket 7.62 mm) will deflect at 45°. Try this out on your TH-cam channel.
I think something that wasn't accounted for early on was the grain alignment. Aligning the grain is very important in most applications and this feels like you need to select the right wood or treat it to straighten the grain layers.
The paper used several different woods and supposdely it worked on any so if anything tahts on the paper itself, not him
@@frandurrieu6477that's true it's crazy tho because I was thinking the same thing because I think it should have been obvious that different words with different grains size and width would give different results
I used to work in a lab where we tested the effectiveness of wood preservatives. To ensure that the wood was properly impregnated, we used a vacuum pressure plant. A vacuum was drawn to fully open up the xylem and phloem, then the wood was immersed in the preservatives under a few atmospheres of pressure to ensure that it penetrated as deeply as possible ( the length of the wood was also a factor). When I saw the cross section of your sample I could see how this method would be helpful should you decide to have another go
I was thinking something like that too. When they treat pine with copper sulfate, they use a giant pressure vessel. Maybe NR needs to immerse and put it under vacuum, for a few cycles until no more bubbles come out then put it in a pressure cooker and treat it under pressure for 7 hours.
This. I've also heard of this done with glues / reinforcing chemistry for woods used in plywood-making process steps and other impregnated wood products, where penetration of the material is required. I think what Neil made was a very thin layer of the desired chemistry with a very very thick layer of ordinary wood in the middle, so its structural properties weren't as expected. I totally understand not reaching that point after what looked like years of on-again / off-again experiments behind the scenes (note that the purchase date for the press was 2020!).
Why did you have to use the word impregnated
Nile: *spends $5000 on a press*
Also Nile: "WE GOT PINE BECAUSE IT WAS THE CHEAPEST"
he didnt have money left to buy anything else than pine lmao
Haha. Someone get this man a bottle of titebond
Dont forget the US$1,556.37 at 33:52
He’s gotta save money _somewhere_
You gotta realize that they could sell or use that machine in the future, aswell as the fact that they were buying the actual machine for more money than the material because they wanted to proove that even the bad wood could turn bulletproof
Babe wake up, Forged Wood dropped (1 year ago) 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Love that you shot regular unsmooshed wood at the end. It really sold how well the squishified wood worked at stopping bullets.
Two improvements I think would make a big difference:
1. Get properly kiln dried wood, something with a < 10% moisture level, ideally 5-6%. This should allow the solution to penetrate deeper into the wood. The wood you got was probably in the 15-25% range.
2. Use quarter-sawn lumber. This would significantly help the wood from warping, crushing or curling. May even be a bit stronger.
I would also like to add that it probably makes a difference which way the grain of the wood is facing when being pressed.
I'd like to add that maybe he should get tooling designed for it. Like a die for it to be pressed in, I've used stuff like that when working in aerospace to make sure it doesn't warp out like that. Granted it's Titanium and not wood.
Edit, nvm he did make a die. Just not fully enclosed like I'm used to, where the die halves interlock with each other when closed.
@@sithknight7740 That's definitely for the camera, also you need space for the water to drain anyway.
Yep - was looking for this comment - the first pieces that stayed straight looked quartersawn and the ones that warped look flatsawn
I think if he did the wood more thin and had more layers at the same size then it would be way better
You know it's crazy I basically watched the whole video.
Goes to show that you don't need to go out of your way to edit it down to 10 minutes to appease people who actually want to learn with you when you make mistakes.
Really appreciate you showing every step of the way
I look forward to your next hour video lol
I just finished the video and was perusing the comments and took a double take at yours as I realized the video was an hour long. I just happily consumed the whole thing without even realizing how much time had passed. Sign of good content I guess lol
watched the whole thing while doing chemistry homework lol
I did _not_ realize that that was an hour until the very end!
This is probably the longest video I've watched - the mistakes are what really drew me in
Yeah it is shows you the mistakes and lets you also learn by making the same mistakes and understand why
Appreciate the energy and time you put into these videos. Also seeing how those bullets go thru materials so easily makes me aware of how bad Hollywood lied about these shootouts showing us a person being saved jumping behind a simple object.
This video is a really great demonstration for why replication studies are important. Lots of important details were captured in this video that did not seem to make it into the original paper!
As someone who has to read papers all day long and figure out how to apply them for work, a lot of papers need to be clearer on exactly how they do thing and with what kind of setup.
I get the impression that if a process might have practical applications the papers are made as simplified and misleading as possible without actually lying in order to maintain some value to their expertise in the process.
@@Michaelonyoutub Tbh papers should come with all the processes documented via video. Cameras are cheap. I know some people are already doing it, but it's far from the norm.
researchers need to start vlogging
@@cate01a "Yo whats up IEEE, ... if you liked the video don't forget to cite"
I think the missing steps are utilizing vacuum and pressure in the wash and rinse stages.
Wood turners often treat their wood this way to completely saturate their blocks and curing them before turning.
I agree totally. I thought the eureka moment was at the band saw when trimming treated timber. I was expecting a change in how he was treating the wood.
It's interesting that he did this during the clear wood video and not this one
@@uggiebear1 Yeahhh... I keep thinking back to that moment and how he should have seen only the outer layer of the wood was treated. Vacuum/pressure in the wash and rinse stages would be necessary. I also think he could go *much* thinner considering the strength when so little wood was treated. I would like to see what four ¼ in pressed layers can do. Use urea formaldehyde or phenolic glue for gluing the layers together, use the correct amount of glue, and maybe dry the treated wood in a kiln before squashing it to prevent liquid from creating cavities in the fibers.
As an added experiment, I wondered how the material would perform if the core was saturated with an adhesion promoter before proceeding with compression.
When being squeezed, the remaining lignin, which the researchers said was not taken to 0%, I assume plays a role in binding the remaining mass in correct proportion.
The adhesion promoter may also prevent delamination from oils coming out during the squeezing.
Oils can ruin an adhesive bond and make a part weak. The internal binding may be found weak in adhesion and shooting a bullet near an edge, where there is no unsaturated and washed section may prove to be at near the ideal strength.
soak out the lignin and then treat with stabilizing resin before the cook and press? it could be more brittle, but if you cut the block into a few layers and stacked crisscrossing the grain. i think that would be best, plus you could make it a cool color w the stabilizing resin. someone call peter brown, we have wood micarta, or kevlar, depending...
I think a lot of really thin layers could make it a hell lot stronger, not only would it make it easier for the chemicals to get through the whole wood, but also spread the energy better through both grain directions
Also rather than gluing the end plates together it may be worth a try to just press them together in the first place. There's a chance that the same reaction that makes the wood denser could also make different plates stick to each other
@@DrunkGeko I was thinking exactly this. A bunch of thin sheets pressed together in alternating grain patterns would probably do a lot for strength. I'm thinking 1/2" or 1/4" thick pieces/
so, plywood 15 pro max?
I think properly drying the wood before using it as a sponge, then soaking it like a sponge, as well as thinner pieces for better chemical penetration. The only variable that you didn't change yet was the way that you're treating the wood. You got the press dailed. I would also try pressing drywood, untreated wood, just to see how it behaves.
@@highonahill perfect
I really like the dedication and how much money he spends on every video
The fact that code bullet and Nilered are friends makes so much sense
he's also friends with Michael Reeves
Unfortunately, he's also friends with notorious child predator Carlos the Frog. 😒
He is friends with javrils too
@Plushiegamyt Or is he? 🤨
To be entirely fair to your final wood, most bulletproof vests are not rated for more than a few shots. And of course, if you're shot even once, the entire thing realistically needs to be replaced after the fact. So I think the bulletproof wood has even *more* potential than you pointed out. Very cool proof of concept!!
Depends on the type/rating. Class 4 armor will stop a 30-06 armor piercing round. One. Once. It shatters in the process. (This is what absorbs the energy.) Class 3A will usually stop several rounds at the very least. Class 4 is ceramic, 3A isn't. Vests, (soft armor) are almost unknown these days and don't work all that well. Plate carriers are the norm.
@@corwinweber693 yep this is basically the basis for my comment 😀
It lets you make a mistake once. And gives you a chance to shoot back
@@rear9259 Realistically speaking, there is a greater chance you get shot somewhere not covered by the plate (neck, hands, legs, face) than getting hit twice in it one after another.
@@zuruumi9849That entirely depends on who is shooting.
You should try making the wood in thin sheets, laying them on top of each other in a criss cross pattern while still wet, then pressing them together into a larger piece. I think your chemicals aren’t permeating correctly and also it would allow you to increase the number of layers
This is what I was going to suggest also. I’d be really, really curious to see the result. I hope he can do a follow up video soon!
Exactly this
So basically soak plywood.
Yeah I would love to see a part 2 on this. There's a lot of helpful comments and I think he could actually make something bulletproof if he combined some of these methods.
Really hope he follows up trying this
Very cool experiment. Some thoughts..
Regarding the testing of the first thin piece of wood.. Stabbing it with the screwdriver, the wood had a table to help with its strength / When you set it up with the pellet gun - the wood was on its own, so of course it blew out the back. This you have to take into account.
Also - working with wood... How the wood has been milled (from which part of the trunk of the tree and what orientation) makes for a different type of grain, a different kind of wood with different strength properties - Ideally I think you would want to have a piece of wood that has 'almost perfect', straight grain (or maybe the end grain perfectly diagonal for density). Also, pine is a softwood and not very finely grained - so I think relatively the treatment will have more effect than when you would start out with a hardwood..
Also wood has a moisture content to begin with - maybe that would interfere with the first chemical reaction. Perhaps you can get some control there..
Also, laminating wood in different directions, muiltiple layers might make it more efficient. (ah you thought of this yourself!)
You should send this video to the corresponding author(s) of the paper, I bet they’d love it! I also think it’s worthy of praise that you preservered so many times when quitting seemed obvious, and achieved something amazing because of it. Amazing video all around
I think it would just make them realise how poorly their method in the paper was written if it took Nile this many times to get it right
@@user-op8fg3ny3j They could use that as critique and make it better
@@user-op8fg3ny3jfrom the papers I've read, that is quite annoyingly a common theme, scientists need writing courses unironically. (But no hate, they're very highly educated, it's probably hubris to a degree, they probably just assume other scientists know what they mean)
The research is awsome, it open up paths for many new considerations on the subject...but things like claiming is near strong as steel when it's clearly not, kinda fishy...
@@user-op8fg3ny3j I think they know how well they described it, and that it is very common to give far less than perfect descriptions of experiment in scientific papers
Hey Nile!
Just a little FYI, .22LR is surprisingly good penetrator round at close range. It’s a very small surface area with a high velocity.
Small and fast bullets can do a lot more work than they’re given credit for.
9mm weighs 100-150 grains 22 weighs 40 grains. 22 is doing 1000 fps giving around 120 ft lbs of energy. 9mm is doing 1300 giving around 400. Lots more energy as you can see by the video. 22 sucks. When you get into .223 you have a much larger powder charge and the gas expands for the whole trip down the barrel accelerating the 30-65 grain bullet for longer making the speed more like 3000 fps giving 1000 ft lbs + of energy. This is what people mean when they say smaller and faster rounds kill armor. Nobody is taking about a 22 with that statement.
@@Nick-xe9medo you mean fps lbs for momentum? These imperial units are hurting my brain and I’m American
Nien milluh meetur betr
You are correct but it also is how finely the force is concentrated on the area it is striking
@@TheThe-om3qt Nick means foot-pound-force, the imperial version of Newton-metres. Yes, it's that annoying unit that could be torque or energy depending whether the force and the distance are perpendicular or in line. If you think it's bad having other units over the border, pity the people of the UK where road distances are in miles and yard, altitudes are in feet, beer and cider are in pints, fuel economy is in litres per 100 km or miles per gallon, fuel is sol in litres, timber dimensions are in mm, milk is in litres, air guns are limited by muzzle energy in foot-pounds-force, airsoft guns are limited by muzzle energy in Joules, shotgun barrel lengths are a minimum 24 inches and other firearm barrel lengths are a minimum 30 cm.
Anyway, 1 J = ~¾ ft-lb-f, and if you want energy per unit area here you go, in J / mm² for 21st Century people:
9 x 17 mm: 3.3
.45 ACP 4.9 to 5.7
9 x 19 mm 7.9 to 8.1
.40 S&W: 8.2 to 8.8
.22 LR 7.0 to 10.9 (That's quite a range compared the others)
10 mm auto: 9.6 to 14.8
.44 Magnum: 11.4 to 17.8
.45-70: 24.2 to 49.2
5.56 x 45 mm: 69.2 to 76.6
.30-06: 83.4 to 90.3
Whether it's actually energy per unit area or energy per unit circumference that matters to barrier defeat could be a topic for a LONG discussion.
Question: Do you ever share your results with the authors of the papers you get some of your ideas from? I feel like in cases like this they'd be very interested to compare notes.
My first thought when issues started cropping up was "Why didn't you just look up the contact information of the authors and send them an email?". The majority of academics absolutely love it when you show interest in their work, and they would probably be happy to answer any questions.
@@Stingraysquadyeah, they’d probably be thrilled!
i was thinking this same thing @@Stingraysquad
@@Stingraysquad Especially considering he basically peer reviewed it.
@@QuintarFarenorMuch better even: he did a replication study.
One thing to note: if you're trying to get chemicals to actually penetrate all the way into wood, you're going to need to do so under at least partial vacuum to help draw some of the trapped air out of the xylem and phloem. I'd be curious to see what the effect of a laminate of several thinner sheets of densified wood would be. Start with, like, 12mm thick red oak squares compressed down to, like, 2mm and sandwich several of them together until you get back to around 12mm thickness, since that's approximately how thick body armor tiles are. I think the thinner starting thickness would also make the penetration of the chemical solution more thorough.
THAT WAS OUR COLLEGE THESIS BACK IN 2020! I believe we used the same paper to create the densified wood and our idea was to reinforce it with a bamboo fiber which are also densified bamboo fibers so basically two layers of densified wood and in the middle, reinforced fiber. Our main problem and setback was the machine since we had to make it out of scrap metal. We were able to make some densified wood samples using hardwood and softwood that are found here in the Philippines to be able to compare the strength of the two after it was densified. Our main goal was to make densified wood composite that can be used to create blocks that can be used in ceilings, walls, floors, and other economic use. Unfortunately we did not finished the thesis due to lockdown but I can say the curing process was a tedious process 😂. I wished we had funds to recreate such beautiful design paper and be able to test how strong hardwoods and softwoods are after it was densified and reinforced with fibers. I miss my college friends/bestfriends too ❤️
Thank you for making this experiment, Nile!
Densified bamboo? You guys are onto something, bamboo is ass dirt cheap, and I it grows stupidly fast, making it highly sustainable, also it's flatter and thinner than wood, so better lignin-removing-solution penetration, less dry part.
@@bodyno3158 that is what we are trying to test, whether this bamboo fiber reinforcement will add strength to our densified woods but sadly our project was cut short due to lockdown. Also, we are experimenting on different adhesives like polyurethane to glue this fibers into our densified wood.
How long do you leave it in distilled water?
@@keiferlee The lumber mill I worked at in high school specialized in LVL (laminated veneer lumber) which is alternating strips of veneer glued under pressure. Sounds very similar to what you were doing but with veneer and lower pressure. Its very strong structurally to be used as beams over large spans.
@@gerald9326 pretty much the same time as in the video but sometimes we skip maybe one or two hours of it since we have to go to school at the same time and don't have time to leave it overnight 😂😂
Hey Nile: the rifle you used actually imparts more velocity on the 9mm round then a typical pistol would do. Most class IIA vests are designed to stop 9mm pistol threats. You have to step up to class II. Or higher to stop higher velocity 9mm like what comes out of a 9mm carbine or submachine gun.
Hey im not a gun feller or particularly good at physics I'm curious if I understand what's going on here my understanding is that a 9 being fatter spreads it's load outwardly as it smashes resulting in a larger area being hit with a smaller over all impact which is effective against maiming a target but a 22 being thinner is designed to wiggle through the target because it's thinner with max force
Am I off base
@@Zach-qs2bw nah dawg the 9 mm has more mass than the 22 lr as well as the 22 having less room in the casing for black powder. The equation for force is mass * acceleration which means that the nine mil would be substatially more powerful than the 22 (I think nile said about 2.5 times stronger in the video.) But bp968 is right, it's probably more powerful than nile said because of the longer barrel on the rifle he used rather than a standard 9 mm pistol. The longer the barrel the more acceleration the bullet can achieve because the moment a bullet comes out of the end of a barrel the energy from the explotion is no longer forced to go in a straight line and can be dispersed out into the air. With the longer barrel the bullet has more time to gain velocity before it exits the gun. Good question dawg
@@Zach-qs2bw you’re partly correct in your assumption. Penetrations usually depends on speed, impact surface area and material. However the 9mm was imparting enough energy to split the 3rd piece of wood and it…should have faster velocity than the .22lr with carbine barrel.
@@Zach-qs2bwas a dude that doesn't own a gun i seen this hapen i some videos of people testing diferent calibers and materials.
22 will go deeper on some materials than a 9mm.
To be fair 9mm delivers much more force on impact and thats a good thing for the one shooting it.
Gotta add here that he used a hollow point bullet which of course is not meant for armor penetration. The moment he uses FMJ or AP there is a different impact.
The Code Bullet collab was HIGHLY unexpected! Cool that you guys are friends
dumb shit coding and dumb shit chemistry.
Now those are two things I never thought would become related.
what i love is taping the wood to the block and propping a stick behind it is so a Code Bullet idea
Hm I wouldn’t call it a collab, more like a cameo.
Code Bullet was on the Safety Third podcast which Nile is usually a host on. I can't remember if Nile was on that particular episode though, he hasn't been hosting as regularly recently.
Idk who this is, but he is very handsome, unlike the dude running this channel.
This is the most fun I’ve had while listening to a guy talk about his wood for an hour
It's actually impressive how easily that 22lr went through the first compressed wood. It's almost like you made it less bulletproof.
I see what you mean lol mybbad
he made it harder but it was so thin it just made it brittle what you want isnt hardness but tensile strenght. youd probably get an even better result by somehow infusing that pressed wood with some resin or other polymer
Long grain is one of the weakest sides
Now shoot some high carbon steel to see the victor! But seriously, good job. Very interesting video.
@@georgenichols1638 shut your mouth
nile went from precise chemistry into alchemy into ballistic research and now he's going back to alchemy next
lol some months later nile would say so we are testing if my wooden bunker can a bomb
And then to construct an atomic bomb from apples
One of the main reasons you were getting those diagonal cracks was because of the direction of the grain. If you want to get it even stronger you need to get a piece of wood with the grain running parallel to the wood instead of curving around like on the pieces you had.
Also I loved the Bobby Duke merch and the code bullet crossover
Yes. Buy quarter saw lumber.
Quarter sawn demonstrating its superiority as usual!
Compressing and heating it like that should in theory negate grain in the final stage, the cracks probably formed during the squashing before the cellulose fused to itself, crushing it in a die should fix his issues
@@DnBastard That's what I was thinking when he started pressing it down. Problem could be the wood "rolling" upwards to the pressing plate.
I think that keeping the pressure and temperatures lower would also help, so that the water isn’t boiling which will be causing air pockets inside the wood, and will allow the internal bonds can form more slowly and hence aide in keeping the wood roughly the same cross-sectional shape.
Personally I’d try a range of pressures and temperatures from 50% boiling point to 100% in 10% increments at the ~700PSI, then similarly for 600, 500, 400, 300… Because the piece permanently deforms with the heating, the lower pressures should be maintainable so long as you don’t press it all in one go, and just press it up to the mark when it drops by eg 50PSI from your target.
Impressive throughout. New lab looks great!
When you resized the wet piece on the bandsaw and found a potentially less-treated center, I wondered
(a) If a .22 shot might be stopped by aiming closer to one of the end-grain edges of the single-layer wood (where we’d know the wood was fully treated), and
(b) If narrower sections of wood might get full penetration by the chemicals & the wash. (So this would look like your initial rectangular blocks, but with end grain visible across the long faces.)
👍🏼
For washing out the leaching chemicals, it may help to use a vacuum chamber to do multiple pressure swings to pull and push the rinse water.
This could be good for getting the original chemicals all the way to the center of the wood too
Layering the wood with steel wire mesh would stop it from splitting, and make it more strong
Seeing how the wood looked dry in the middle I would say he could have boiled it even longer too
@@mikelarin8037I think too that the wood wasn't properly chemically treated. It could be easily tested by adding some colour into the chemical treatment (but because of it's high pH is unlikely the colour would survive) or adding colour into the washings
@@mikelarin8037I assume boiling longer would break the wood down too much, into loose cellulose as mentioned
Nile, use a pressure cooker to make sure the wood is soaked 100%, pine is super soft, try using other hard wood as the first layer and then use hardened pine as a shock absorbent as a second third layer
Great video 👍
I don't know that using a hard wood is an advantage here. Hard woods are hard because they are naturally more dense (more cellulose per unit volume). I think this process evens out that particular playing field.
it might be, but we have to consider other variables that might enhance the toughness of the material.@@dalmudi3539
Let’s applaud the real chads here: the delivery guys who brought the heat press inside.
Jack Pallet, is hes name.
True Chad, made of steel.
For the friends
he is Pallet Jack
Lifter of half ton.
Had to have used a pallet jack
That was the first thing I thought when he received it.
@@MeltedMaskthere’s half ton ones? The pallet jacks we use are good to 5500lb
No way they didn’t use a jack
Considering how well you did with an _imperfect_ version of the wood plate armor you made, I’d love to see what a perfect version of this wood plate armor could do.
Also, imagine making actual Samurai armor (or something) out of this and tossing it into the past. It’d probably be venerated as some master warlock’s finest piece of magic!
Nile's gun licence really reminded me how young he is. He's been making these fun science videos since he was like 15, and now he has an entire lab at just 24! That's so wild to me.
Is he really 2,49 meters tall?
Like wth i never saw a person with that height im surprised.
bro that entire ID is a joke did you see that height bro its 98 inches😭😭 im pretty sure hes like 31 or 32 by now
He's Canadian. He doesn't have a gun license, he has a projectile device permit
No he’s like 31. In the safety third podcast he states he got his drivers license like 15-16 years ago so he’d have to be in his thirties. Also, there’s never been a person who’s 8 feet tall LOL
@@baguette4607Tallest man in history was 8 foot 11
Just casually inviting code bullet to shoot some condensed wood in a random forest is the most NileRed thing. The crossover none of us knew we needed.
I have not once cared about celebrity appearances in shows or anything, but the moment I saw Code Bullet on a Chemistry-based channel, I actually jumped out of my seat a bit.
The collab of Heroes we needed
Have you discovered safety third podcast yet?
Evan was the last person i expected to see on a nile red video ngl
Brings him to the forest like "wait I thought you were a shooting channel"
I think glue choice may have been a bigger factor that you thought it was.
Sea shells are incredibly strong because it is alternating layers of ceramic & protein. Choosing a adhesive with more give may have prevented the second layer from blowing out by absorbing the energy elastically instead of requiring plastic deformation by the second piece
i was thinking this. i feel like he should of just lined up the wood on-top of each other with no glue
But then the question is, is the wood bulletproof or the glue bulletproof?
@@andrew3606 It's neither this or that. The "vest" of a bullet proof vest isn't bullet proof. The plate inside consists of many things, and none of those composite by themselves is bullet proof either.
@@HoshinoMirai ok but the title of the video is making bulletproof wood
Great project....as usual. It seems like not having the middle get the chemical wash is the main issue. I "wood" like to see you try this one more time, but confirm that the middle gets the chemical wash. With that huge investment in tools....why not?