Wood Burning Pool Heater - My Version (Using Vogelzang Kit)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ค. 2015
- This is my take on the other one posted here: • Wood Burning Pool Heat...
I used 3/4" copper and did all the soldering to decrease the back pressure and increase the flow rate. It works like a charm, with a steady fire water coming out at 5-7GPM is 105-130F, with just ember's (which for me is about an hour aftersteady burning, lasting about 1-2 hours ) 85F to 100F. I have to refill about every 2-3 hours.
*NOTE* something to consider I hadn't thought much about is the energy this can produce should your pump stop while a fire is going. I found out the hard way with a power outage that the water in the line will turn to gas, and when the power kicked back on and cold water hit it, the long route meant the energy couldn't escape fast enough and it blew with quite a bang. I suggest have an idea what you will do when the power goes out. I have backups to pump the water, and am working on a solenoid I will be putting on the outlet that will close on a power outage, and requires manual opening. So when the power comes back on, no water flows through until I can cool it down or let it go out **
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Great job, Ryan. Thank you for sharing.
Looks awesome! I like the way you ran the 3/4 copper piping and the circulation pump seems like it is working well. Power outage is an issue that I have not run into with mine but I know it would probably melt my irrigation tubing I have connected if the power were to go out while I had it running. Thanks for sharing this!
Great video and explanation of important aspects. I appreciate you mentioning what happens if the pump stops working. I am building my own currently and plan to use one way valves to encourage the water to circulate via heat siphon although I am sure i will need a pump but i am hoping there will be times i can shut it all off and let it circulate on its own.
You will really have to monitor the fire. With a good fire, but not strong, with this many loops it has to move at least 5 gpm through or it will vaporize before it can make it out, and you get steam exiting under water, and at that point are close to a disaster. Even though it works really well, it has some inherent flaws because nothing is controlling the fire. In the years I've used it I have had to douse the fire at least 3 times because of pump stoppages, and that leads to a mess you have to clean up of soot/ash/wet mess.
If the power runs out hook it up to the water main instead and just run a trickle throught it. That should keep the pipes cool enough till power returns.
what did you use to secure the heat exchanger to the roof of the stove? Thanks for the vid BTW
+Bryan Dew Sorry for the late delay. I just used two strips of 1/4" steel, that has SS bolts to the outside. So far its working well, I think the water pipes act as a heat sink so the hardware isn't dealing with the full heat of the fire. I've taken it all down for the winter, I've left it in place and blown out the pipes.
I have read that using copper pipe and the chlorine in the pool water will turn your water purple or something like that. Did this happen to you?
Hi Ryan,
How do you prevent damage to the coil when it is freezing in the winter?
I blow it out with air. It never gets it all out, but enough so that it can't freeze and crack.
do the pipes sweat at all in the fire when pumping really cold water through it?
+Razzle Dazzle They do sweat all the time, but under full fire it vaporizes the drops as fast as they form. Only on cool down (when the fire is slowly going out) do you get drops that remain on the pipes. But so far its never created any moisture in the ash pile, so it is minimal and doesn't effect the fire at all.
From what I can find type L has a max working temp of 400. I know when closed these barrels can get to at least that.
The piping is filled with water, trust me the pool would be a but toasty at 400. Thats why its basically impossible to solder a water filled pipe.
@@ryankennedy9414 Right, I had no idea the flowing water would keep the outer surface so cool in and enclosed barrel
Ryan: can you tell me what the avg. temp spread is - water temp going in vs coming out? any issues with copper staining the liner or turning swimmers hair green? Looks like an excellent design!
No issues with water quality. In/out varies on how hot you have the fire going. To fill the pool in the summer I run the garden hose in (8C) and get 25C out with 5gpm flow and a good fire.
Once the pool is up to temp (27-28C for us) the water coming out is HOT. It can get hot enough that if you lift the fill pipe out of the water its too hot to run onto your hand. It creates a mini hot tub in that corner of the pool
Hi how many gallons of water does the copper heat exchanger hold?
2 gallons total inside the unit.
Well its roughly 70 feet of 3/4 copper (Type L) so close to 2 gallons.
That's great! Question my pool is 28' round about 18000 gallons is it worth trying to heat it this way? Is it to much water to heat?
This pool is 18x32 and about 14000 gallons and I have no issues. You have to look at it in terms of flow. I get 5GPM easily out of the discharge so my pool theoretically turns over in two days. I have in the past had a fire going all day, stoked it before bed then got it going in the morning again. With that I can raise the temperate 4-5C in two days.
didnt the solder melt? others say it would
+hugo Bose No, the water in the pipes will never allow the solder to melt. Just as in home plumbing, its virtually impossible to heat and flow solder in a line filled with water. The only time it did let go was when the power went out, and for an hour no water was flowing. It got hot enough to turn the water left in the coil to steam. Even that didn't do it, but when the power came back on and cold water rushed in, the resistance of all the turns didn't allow the steam to escape fast enough and blew some of them off.
This year I'm going to put a NC solenoid on the inlet, wired with a small circuit that only allows one time use until a hard reset. So if the power goes out, the solenoid closes and doesn't open when power returns, I have to reset it. That will allow me to put the fire out, everything to cool before firing it up again.
Ah thats good to know :-)
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