I lived aboard my Cape Dory 30' Sailboat in NYC for 6 years. The first two years I heated it with a Force 10 Propane Heater. Bulkhead mounted heaters like this should be mounted as close to the cabin sole as possible. However, due to the boats narrow beam, I could not mount it low enough on the bulkhead to get good convection / distribution of heat. The area below the height of the burner was always cold without a fan and then it was fine. Also, these are more meant to extend the sailing season, not for full time live aboard heat. I stayed away from any free standing heaters due to the boats narrow beam. When my alcohol stove went on the fritz, I didn't want to replace it with a propane stove because when cruising it would be difficult to carry enough propane to cook and heat. ( A Force 10 Propane heater on high would empty a 20lb tank in 60 hours ). I took the plunge and bought a Dickinson Pacific Model Diesel cook stove. I actually woundup speaking with a Mr. Macintosh who designed the stove and worked at the factory because I had some technical questions. I'm convinced that due to the simplicity of these stoves and no need for power, they are the best choice for a full time live aboard. They can heat a rather large yacht as long as you can circulate the heat. To that end, I was both surprised and glad to learn from Mr. Macintosh that the dickinson cook stoves ( which utilize the same vaporizing pot burners as the heaters ) actually do a better job of heating than the heaters due. The reason being, they are larger and the greater surface area provides for greater convection and circulation of air even without a fan. My stove was located by the campanionway at the aft end of the main cabin and my forward v berth was always warm. The only downside ( which is not much of a downside for a full time live aboard ) is that unlike a forced hot air heater, they do not provide instant heat. These are stoves that once lit, are meant to run for weeks or months at a time. Mine was always on once the heating season started so my boat was always warm and the oven was always at 300 degrees Fahrenheit when the stove was on low so it was always ready to cook. If you were to board a cold boat in mid winter and light the stove, you would not notice much of a change during the first hour. After that, the cast iron top will have absorbed all the heat it could hold and begin radiating heat. Also, once the flue pipe heats up, you can then begin pushing the stove to a higher setting to speed the heating process and if necessary, use the draft assist fan to keep it burning clean. Once it's warm you can turn it down. My Pacific model burned 1.3 to 1.5 gallons in 24 hours on low and 3.5 gallons on High over 24 hours. In all those years except for a quick warm up when first lighting the stove, I never used it on High. 85% of the time it was on low. For anyone interested, on low it put out 6500 BTU's and on High 16, 250 BTU's. So from my experience with the Force 10 which was rated at 9000 BTU's on high, I learned that it isn't only BTU output that determines how well a heater works, but the size of it's surface area for the purposes of moving air by convection. Is P.S. I noted a number of posters asking about condensation. This will not be an issue for a live aboard as you will have the heat on 24 /7in winter. My boat was not insulated in any way. The only time I experienced condensation was when first starting the heater for the season. Since boats live in a damp environment, we don't realize how much moisture creeps its way into the seat cushions, the wood, books and other items, etc. After the first day or so, the condensation goes away since these heaters being vented, give off 100% dry heat and dry the boat quite nicely as well as heat it. In fact some people actually put a kettle of water on the stove to add moisture to the interior. I hope this comment helps someone seeking to heat their boat.
This subject is really interesting , so you have between 15 and 20 degrees on a 30 foot boat . Can i ask what the heat output is on these units . I'm seriously looking for a solid fuel heater on a similar sized boat , but which one ! . I had a 3kw oil filled radiator on a 25 footer , when i lived on her back in the 90's . I only used full power once when i was ill , but the normal setting was around three quarters . Though it worked well , my electric jumped 3 fold , even on the low setting , and on this boat i want to be a little more independent .
I know that Jordan and Seth have had to in their lockers behind where the heaters in as they were having trouble with condensation last winter and I put some insulation in behind some panels to combat some of the heat loss but haven’t needed any for condensation as I believe Tom doesn’t have any but his boat is always warm and has tons of air flow
Please use waterseparator on the fuel line. and good diesel not the "evoirment" diesel you also use the Dickinson made heating plate with three legs that is placed inside the burner This will make the bottom of burner more heat and the diesel will better vaporize and you dont get so much "oil black tar" bits in the burner bottom.
![Staying WARM on a Sailboat - Dickinsons Diesel Heater Install [EP 221]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cDo9ru0-lp0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Staying WARM on a Sailboat - Dickinsons Diesel Heater Install [EP 221]](/img/tr.png)
I lived aboard my Cape Dory 30' Sailboat in NYC for 6 years. The first two years I heated it with a Force 10 Propane Heater. Bulkhead mounted heaters like this should be mounted as close to the cabin sole as possible. However, due to the boats narrow beam, I could not mount it low enough on the bulkhead to get good convection / distribution of heat. The area below the height of the burner was always cold without a fan and then it was fine. Also, these are more meant to extend the sailing season, not for full time live aboard heat. I stayed away from any free standing heaters due to the boats narrow beam. When my alcohol stove went on the fritz, I didn't want to replace it with a propane stove because when cruising it would be difficult to carry enough propane to cook and heat. ( A Force 10 Propane heater on high would empty a 20lb tank in 60 hours ). I took the plunge and bought a Dickinson Pacific Model Diesel cook stove. I actually woundup speaking with a Mr. Macintosh who designed the stove and worked at the factory because I had some technical questions. I'm convinced that due to the simplicity of these stoves and no need for power, they are the best choice for a full time live aboard. They can heat a rather large yacht as long as you can circulate the heat. To that end, I was both surprised and glad to learn from Mr. Macintosh that the dickinson cook stoves ( which utilize the same vaporizing pot burners as the heaters ) actually do a better job of heating than the heaters due. The reason being, they are larger and the greater surface area provides for greater convection and circulation of air even without a fan. My stove was located by the campanionway at the aft end of the main cabin and my forward v berth was always warm. The only downside ( which is not much of a downside for a full time live aboard ) is that unlike a forced hot air heater, they do not provide instant heat. These are stoves that once lit, are meant to run for weeks or months at a time. Mine was always on once the heating season started so my boat was always warm and the oven was always at 300 degrees Fahrenheit when the stove was on low so it was always ready to cook. If you were to board a cold boat in mid winter and light the stove, you would not notice much of a change during the first hour. After that, the cast iron top will have absorbed all the heat it could hold and begin radiating heat. Also, once the flue pipe heats up, you can then begin pushing the stove to a higher setting to speed the heating process and if necessary, use the draft assist fan to keep it burning clean. Once it's warm you can turn it down. My Pacific model burned 1.3 to 1.5 gallons in 24 hours on low and 3.5 gallons on High over 24 hours. In all those years except for a quick warm up when first lighting the stove, I never used it on High. 85% of the time it was on low. For anyone interested, on low it put out 6500 BTU's and on High 16, 250 BTU's. So from my experience with the Force 10 which was rated at 9000 BTU's on high, I learned that it isn't only BTU output that determines how well a heater works, but the size of it's surface area for the purposes of moving air by convection. Is
P.S. I noted a number of posters asking about condensation. This will not be an issue for a live aboard as you will have the heat on 24 /7in winter. My boat was not insulated in any way. The only time I experienced condensation was when first starting the heater for the season. Since boats live in a damp environment, we don't realize how much moisture creeps its way into the seat cushions, the wood, books and other items, etc. After the first day or so, the condensation goes away since these heaters being vented, give off 100% dry heat and dry the boat quite nicely as well as heat it. In fact some people actually put a kettle of water on the stove to add moisture to the interior. I hope this comment helps someone seeking to heat their boat.
I’m watching this for info on a truck topper camper and I’m laughing y’all seem like been winter drinkin. Love it thanks for the video
Haha oh we definitely were, best part of being on the boats in the winter
Nice...Go to Dickinson Diesel Heater best install ever...
This subject is really interesting , so you have between 15 and 20 degrees on a 30 foot boat . Can i ask what the heat output is on these units . I'm seriously looking for a solid fuel heater on a similar sized boat , but which one ! .
I had a 3kw oil filled radiator on a 25 footer , when i lived on her back in the 90's . I only used full power once when i was ill , but the normal setting was around three quarters . Though it worked well , my electric jumped 3 fold , even on the low setting , and on this boat i want to be a little more independent .
wondering if you have added any type of insulation to keep condensation down?
I know that Jordan and Seth have had to in their lockers behind where the heaters in as they were having trouble with condensation last winter and I put some insulation in behind some panels to combat some of the heat loss but haven’t needed any for condensation as I believe Tom doesn’t have any but his boat is always warm and has tons of air flow
Do you live aboard?
@@scottcraig4091 not a live aboard but we sail out of Pictou and run the season as early and as late as we can. Usually the last to be hauled out.
yes I live aboard
How expensive for year round liveabord Berth in Armdale ?
Please use waterseparator on the fuel line. and good diesel not the "evoirment" diesel you also use the Dickinson made heating plate with three legs that is placed inside the burner
This will make the bottom of burner more heat and the diesel will better vaporize and you dont get so much "oil black tar" bits in the burner bottom.