Not just you HF👊 Most of us think about what we are doing and go the extra mile🤩 As always, it's only the few coshers that give us a bad name with poor workmanship 😵 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Its amazing that they still make kitchens that are venerable to moisture considering that you have cooking, washing machines, tumble dryers and dishwashers. Good tips.Great video.
You make a good point Roy, and making kitchens out of wooden materials is all good and well until there's a leak or a spillage😬Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
Really helpful tips for the learners like myself, thanks! One thing I’ve noticed is that no one has really done a in depth video on how to fit laminate worktops. Just an idea as what myself as a viewer would like to see!
Hi Ben. I rarely fit chipboard laminated worktops, but, the next time I do, I'll definitely do a video on it👊 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Usefull tip when working on refurbishments as more often than not the walls and floors aren't plumb or level. You've been busy with the camera this week Mr T.👍👍👍
Hi Del, Great tip mate. You can also do this when you cut a sink/hop in a workshop to protect the laminate from blowing if water escapes. Have a great weekend pal
Hi Paddy. I'm quite technical in my approach to everything, and consequently, there is a reason I do everything the way I do it👊 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I'm fairly new to the kitchen fitting world but picked up and tin of Rustins quick dry sealer and a cheap 1/2" or flux flux brush. It's great, you can really see it soak into the wood. However, I don't work at your pace so sort of plan in dry time...it helps when you are a bit slower!! Keep up the great videos and hope you are feeling better now.
Hi Lewis. I think if fitted kitchens all the time then I would probably have a similar sealer and brush to you👊However, I didn't do kitchens that often so just go with what I have which is always a bit of old faithful PVA🤗Great comment and thanks for adding it so others can read it😎Cheers Del
Hi Del, great tip to seal the edges, I have found some of the edges are as sharp as razors so I generally carry a small 50mm fine roller to apply the water proof glue saves getting cut fingers if you happen run along the edge. Great help to all those that don't know as always. Have a great weekend. 😊
Great shout on the roller Peter, as you are quite right, and there can be some super sharp edges on those boards😵Thanks for watching and hope you also have a great weekend😎Cheers Del
Great shout on the MDF primer Gary👊 Some customers are happy to also silicone around the panels, but most don't like to see it🤔Thanks for watching and have a great weekend😎Cheers Del
That glue is great stuff for sealing. Cheap as well good for bath panels too. 2 coats an its rock solid plus you can sand and overpaint as well. I know from an earlier video that you ain't into bath panels lol.🤣. Another nugget from your vault of tips. Great stuff 👍
Hi Ian🖐 I've never actually tried to overpaint it, but what you say does make sense🤩 The less said about bath panels the better mate😵Thanks for watching and have a nice weekend😎Cheers Del
I would love to see how you installed the plinth and secure it to that end panel to stop it from moving or gapping. Plinth Lock could be a simple solution for people coming across this problem.
Hi there🖐 I did use some sort of clip, but I cant, for the life of me, remember what sort it was🤯As you say, Plinth Lock type clip would be perfect👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
ya can tell its getin into winter... youve retired ya shorts for the year. i almost always go factory edge down for end panels. or i use iron on edging if im concerned about water ingress. suppose pva would be an equally good solution. another one i do and i dunno if others do it.... for howdens kitchens on the wall end panels i screw a couple of kd blocks to the top of the panel to hang it on the wall units. then clamp and screw in place
Hi Paul. Iron edging sounds great if you can get to match🤩 Your tip of screwing tabs to top of the wall panels is really great to get it lined up, and something I also do as it frees up a hand to help get it clamped up👊 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there🖐Not all PVA's are created equal, and I can't remember the exact details, but the weatherproof one I use is of the type that can resist exposure to moisture👍It's, perhaps, something I should make clearer when I'm talking about it. Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, I've succumbed and taken on a small white gloss galley kitchen 😁, would a 60 teeth blade on a 190mm diameter blade be OK for cutting the end panels 👍
@@thetallcarpenter l may well put it on my channel, how to fit a kitchen with an axe and a hammer lol, only joking but some will think that coming from a Bricky but I actually do know what ime doing I had a good tutor Brian the Brick who was actually a carpenter I worked with for me any years 👍
could you not just put a spacer under the end panel at the bottom so it is off the floor, clamp and thens secure to the cabinet, would be helpful if fitting laminate/vinyl plank flooring after kitchen is installed and could then slide the edge under the end panel for a neater finish. Also would you not cut the end panel back at a right angle to let the plinth sit flush to the wall? Not criticising as love videos just curious if these are options. :-)
Hi Gareth🖐Everything you mention would have been suitable here, the only problem with this job was the builders had a lot of things in the wrong order, plus they wanted the kitchen fitted before the client had chosen the floor. There was lots on this one that I wouldn't have personally done, but you know what they say about the customer always being right😵Cheers Del
we got to do one lone panel on the end of a work top going over a washing machine supporting the work top, factory end down with a few spacers underneath to raise it a few millimetres off of the floor
If I have an end panel between a base unit and a larder unit that has a blown corner on the floor edge, can I possibly cut this out using a multi tool without dismantling . What is the best way to cut out the corner and replace the plinth
Hi Rachel🖐Yes, you can cut the front lower, damaged edge of the end panel off, carefully with a multitool👍J can't really advise on the plinth, but you may be able to rob enough from a corner join to shut the gap left where the end panel was🤞Cheers Del
@The Tall Carpenter thanks. I will just replace the plinth with a longer length as it has blown on the edge too. The longer length will run across the rough edge of the panel then, hiding it. Will then use a sealant too to avoid water damage again.
Hi AK🖐I would check/assume that the front of the unit will be square to the underside of the work top and measure from these points back to the wall, (obviously allowing for any panel overhang at the front), and down to the floor, and carefully cut the panel👍Cheers Del
As well as putting the factory edge down to the floor, do you ever consider putting a (say) 6 mm spacer under all panels and plinths? If the gap is large enough it can be considered part of the design, avoids any water and will negate the use of that horrible plastic channel that always get filthy.
Hi there🖐Great comment and YES I have talked customers onto having a shadow gap under the end panels as it, almost, guarantees the panel won't suck up and spilled water👍Cheers Del
It also gives a crisp upper line to the shadow gap and may well reduce any undulations in the floor. I suppose the gap will be some multiple of the floor undulation amplitude. What about backlighting it so you get a lit gap rather than a black gap? At Jaguar we used to obsess about panel gaps on the openings. Body factory final buy-off was a bloke with a stick. (On the Mini in the 1970s they used to stretch the door frame with a jack on the diagonal to fit the door, as the door could not really be tweaked) Can you try it so I don't have to? Also have gap above the plinth to make it easier to pull off, back light that too? .... useful next video on these dark nights 😇@@thetallcarpenter
So good that I’m not the only one with common sense to future proof a job
Not just you HF👊 Most of us think about what we are doing and go the extra mile🤩 As always, it's only the few coshers that give us a bad name with poor workmanship 😵 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Its amazing that they still make kitchens that are venerable to moisture considering that you have cooking, washing machines, tumble dryers and dishwashers. Good tips.Great video.
You make a good point Roy, and making kitchens out of wooden materials is all good and well until there's a leak or a spillage😬Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter love your videos, it's the enthusiasm that gets me, keep it up Del.
@@dilligaf2386 Will do Roy👍
Really helpful tips for the learners like myself, thanks! One thing I’ve noticed is that no one has really done a in depth video on how to fit laminate worktops. Just an idea as what myself as a viewer would like to see!
Hi Ben. I rarely fit chipboard laminated worktops, but, the next time I do, I'll definitely do a video on it👊 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Usefull tip when working on refurbishments as more often than not the walls and floors aren't plumb or level. You've been busy with the camera this week Mr T.👍👍👍
Hi Kevin. Its been a video extravaganza this week bud🤪 A video every day for 7 days🤩 Thanks for your comment mate and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great tip, which I've already put to use. Nice to be dry and indoors fitting kitchens at this time of year I'd say!!
Too right Marc🤩Although the site conditions are not really conducive to fitting expensive kitchens 😵Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del,
Great tip mate. You can also do this when you cut a sink/hop in a workshop to protect the laminate from blowing if water escapes.
Have a great weekend pal
You sure can Tyler🤩Great comment, and thanks for watching😎Have a nice weekend yourself bud👊
I use clear silicone applied with a plastic packer works a treat
@@MrBoycie2009 Yeah, that's works a treat David🤩 Cheers
I love your attitude towards attention of detail fair play 👍
Hi Paddy. I'm quite technical in my approach to everything, and consequently, there is a reason I do everything the way I do it👊 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I'm fairly new to the kitchen fitting world but picked up and tin of Rustins quick dry sealer and a cheap 1/2" or flux flux brush. It's great, you can really see it soak into the wood. However, I don't work at your pace so sort of plan in dry time...it helps when you are a bit slower!! Keep up the great videos and hope you are feeling better now.
Hi Lewis. I think if fitted kitchens all the time then I would probably have a similar sealer and brush to you👊However, I didn't do kitchens that often so just go with what I have which is always a bit of old faithful PVA🤗Great comment and thanks for adding it so others can read it😎Cheers Del
Hi Del, great tip to seal the edges, I have found some of the edges are as sharp as razors so I generally carry a small 50mm fine roller to apply the water proof glue saves getting cut fingers if you happen run along the edge. Great help to all those that don't know as always. Have a great weekend. 😊
Great shout on the roller Peter, as you are quite right, and there can be some super sharp edges on those boards😵Thanks for watching and hope you also have a great weekend😎Cheers Del
This is fast becoming Dels Friday tip corner:) Keep it up
Hi Gavin. I've had a mad video week, and released one every day 😵 Two more to come yet🤘Cheers Del
Another great tip mate I use a clear MDF primer/varnish you can also use the clear protection strips you get for the plinth boards
Top man 👍👏👌
Great shout on the MDF primer Gary👊 Some customers are happy to also silicone around the panels, but most don't like to see it🤔Thanks for watching and have a great weekend😎Cheers Del
Great tips Del, my days of kitchens are finished since white gloss came out, to clumsy now with arthritis lol, drop one hammer you know the rest 👍
Hi Andy. I know exactly what you're saying ole friend😵Thanks for your comment bud😎Cheers Del
Great video I normally. If have to cut from the bottom I cap it with plastic strips which are made for this purpose.keep up the good work
The plastic base edging is perfect for protecting the bottom of this kind of board Mohammed 😎 Cheers bud
Hope people realise all the work that goes into fitting a kitchen professionally 🐸🤟☘️🇮🇪👋 good tips
Its certainly not a five minute job to do it properly John🤔Thanks for your comment😎
That glue is great stuff for sealing. Cheap as well good for bath panels too. 2 coats an its rock solid plus you can sand and overpaint as well. I know from an earlier video that you ain't into bath panels lol.🤣. Another nugget from your vault of tips. Great stuff 👍
Hi Ian🖐 I've never actually tried to overpaint it, but what you say does make sense🤩 The less said about bath panels the better mate😵Thanks for watching and have a nice weekend😎Cheers Del
Cheers 👍
@@ianmcbain898 😎👍
I would love to see how you installed the plinth and secure it to that end panel to stop it from moving or gapping. Plinth Lock could be a simple solution for people coming across this problem.
Hi there🖐 I did use some sort of clip, but I cant, for the life of me, remember what sort it was🤯As you say, Plinth Lock type clip would be perfect👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
ya can tell its getin into winter... youve retired ya shorts for the year.
i almost always go factory edge down for end panels. or i use iron on edging if im concerned about water ingress. suppose pva would be an equally good solution.
another one i do and i dunno if others do it.... for howdens kitchens on the wall end panels i screw a couple of kd blocks to the top of the panel to hang it on the wall units. then clamp and screw in place
Hi Paul. Iron edging sounds great if you can get to match🤩 Your tip of screwing tabs to top of the wall panels is really great to get it lined up, and something I also do as it frees up a hand to help get it clamped up👊 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I use SBR - one neat coat. Works well
Hi Harpreet🖐If I was a bit more organised I think that's whatbI would use as it's good stuff👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I normally pva the cut egde of an end panel and put two stainless steel panhead screws towards each end to keep it of the floor a couple of mill.
Hi Geoff🖐That's a great way to do it bud, and will deffo help reduce the chance of water damage👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
good point, however, PVA is water soluble, e.g. gets reactivated when water is introduced
Hi there🖐Not all PVA's are created equal, and I can't remember the exact details, but the weatherproof one I use is of the type that can resist exposure to moisture👍It's, perhaps, something I should make clearer when I'm talking about it. Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I always use clear silicone, and also the same for any cutouts
I haven't always got silicone on the van Philip, and I suspect I would probably use it if I did👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers
Thanks ...or clear silicone with spreader
Hi Sadaqat. That is perfect as well👊 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter ur welcome buddy
👍
Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, I've succumbed and taken on a small white gloss galley kitchen 😁, would a 60 teeth blade on a 190mm diameter blade be OK for cutting the end panels 👍
Hi Andy. Yes bud, a 60t blade should make a lovely cut. Still cut from the back though to minimise break out on the face side👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 👍 Thanks Del
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 My pleasure Andy🤩Hope you get on well with your kitchen👍
@@thetallcarpenter l may well put it on my channel, how to fit a kitchen with an axe and a hammer lol, only joking but some will think that coming from a Bricky but I actually do know what ime doing I had a good tutor Brian the Brick who was actually a carpenter I worked with for me any years 👍
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Stick it on your channel Andy👍(I guarantee your carpentry is better than my bricklaying🤣).
could you not just put a spacer under the end panel at the bottom so it is off the floor, clamp and thens secure to the cabinet, would be helpful if fitting laminate/vinyl plank flooring after kitchen is installed and could then slide the edge under the end panel for a neater finish. Also would you not cut the end panel back at a right angle to let the plinth sit flush to the wall? Not criticising as love videos just curious if these are options. :-)
Hi Gareth🖐Everything you mention would have been suitable here, the only problem with this job was the builders had a lot of things in the wrong order, plus they wanted the kitchen fitted before the client had chosen the floor. There was lots on this one that I wouldn't have personally done, but you know what they say about the customer always being right😵Cheers Del
we got to do one lone panel on the end of a work top going over a washing machine supporting the work top, factory end down with a few spacers underneath to raise it a few millimetres off of the floor
How do you fix and end panel to a wall if there is no wall on either side to screw to, just to the back? Brackets?
Hi there🖐I just key up the back wall surface and stick the panel back with high performance adhesive👍Cheers Del
If I have an end panel between a base unit and a larder unit that has a blown corner on the floor edge, can I possibly cut this out using a multi tool without dismantling . What is the best way to cut out the corner and replace the plinth
It's gloss laminate
Hi Rachel🖐Yes, you can cut the front lower, damaged edge of the end panel off, carefully with a multitool👍J can't really advise on the plinth, but you may be able to rob enough from a corner join to shut the gap left where the end panel was🤞Cheers Del
@The Tall Carpenter thanks. I will just replace the plinth with a longer length as it has blown on the edge too. The longer length will run across the rough edge of the panel then, hiding it. Will then use a sealant too to avoid water damage again.
@@rachelf6207 👍😎
Any tips for fitting end panel?. The countertop is aleady in place so I have to fit between floor and underside of kitchen top. Thanks
Hi AK🖐I would check/assume that the front of the unit will be square to the underside of the work top and measure from these points back to the wall, (obviously allowing for any panel overhang at the front), and down to the floor, and carefully cut the panel👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Cheers. Sorry I meant how to scribe to floor as seems a bit uneven, (v old house, wood and stone portions of floor..)
would you tilt the panel to scribe and then measure? or use a template?
@@akfisher7138 It depends on how much 'scribing' is needed, and it's tricky to advise precisely without seeing it😬
@Ak Fisher I see now👍Yes, I would tilt the panel out/hold it out parallel, to scribe the bottom.
Would re-edge banding it help?
Hi Rodger. Yes, I would have thought so👍Cheers Del
As well as putting the factory edge down to the floor, do you ever consider putting a (say) 6 mm spacer under all panels and plinths? If the gap is large enough it can be considered part of the design, avoids any water and will negate the use of that horrible plastic channel that always get filthy.
Hi there🖐Great comment and YES I have talked customers onto having a shadow gap under the end panels as it, almost, guarantees the panel won't suck up and spilled water👍Cheers Del
It also gives a crisp upper line to the shadow gap and may well reduce any undulations in the floor. I suppose the gap will be some multiple of the floor undulation amplitude. What about backlighting it so you get a lit gap rather than a black gap? At Jaguar we used to obsess about panel gaps on the openings. Body factory final buy-off was a bloke with a stick. (On the Mini in the 1970s they used to stretch the door frame with a jack on the diagonal to fit the door, as the door could not really be tweaked) Can you try it so I don't have to? Also have gap above the plinth to make it easier to pull off, back light that too? .... useful next video on these dark nights 😇@@thetallcarpenter
Jako jo, dobrý, ale proč to není v češtině, když je českej název?