Hi Dan. Saves a bit of messing about 👍 I've got some roofing videos coming soon which should be up your street. 🤩 Thanks for watching mate and have a nice weekend. 😎
Top tip with the sticky blocks. Pipes and cables, in old properties especially, can pretty much pop up anywhere. As you say, absolutely no need to go crazy with fixing the base units, when gravity will do all the heavy lifting for you. Thanks for sharing! 👍
I’m glad I’m not the only Carpenter on here that thought the idea of the wall unit brackets / end panels was genius!! Bit embarrassed that I never thought of that before actually!...🧐 Great video as usual 👍 Keep em coming!
Hi Mark. The best tips are always the one that seem to most obvious once you're shown them🤯 Thanks for watching and mate, and your very honest comment🤩 Cheers
1 thing I do when putting feet on units is set the combination square to the hight of the plinth plus an 1/8 or so. Then sit the ruler end on the unit and wind the legs up to the square.
Hi Ryan. That's a great tip as I just use my tape. It is a really good habit to get into as it actually can save a lot of messing about on your knees turning the legs up or down.🤩 Thanks for your great comment.👍
I use an off cut of white melamine as a gauge. So if say u want the top of the unit at 75cm from the floor, set the level at 80 cm. Then get a square off cut thats 10 cm and mark a line across it at 5cm. I simply stand the block on each corner and wind the feet up or down until the laser hits the line. Its very easy, accurate and quick.
I REALLY like that Billy🤩 It's much easier to read the laser against that mark than when it's skimming the top of the units👊 Superb tip🤗Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there🖐You raise a great point, and on new work, this is not a problem, but on older or existing jobs, I would key the area I was going to stick to a bit. Don't forget, that in most cases, once the worktops are fitted and sealed back, the kitchen won't be going anywhere👊Cheers Del
Hi. Great video. Im a self employed kitchen fitter in London and looking for extra work, where and what would you recommend me to do? Thanks in advance
Hi Matteo🖐Its a really tricky one to advise on, if I'm being honest. I guess you could try contacting kitchen companies in your area to see if they need any fitters. Certainly, here in my area, there is huge demand for decent fitters. (50 miles north of London). Sorry I cant be much more help😬Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hello mate,great video. I really would like to learn kitchen fitting as I want to leave corporate and go back to working hands on instead of behind a desk. I have been asking around if anyone will let me shadow them for a day or so just to see what's it's like on the job, but no luck. Any tips to just getting a look in? Thank you for your video!
Hi Michael🖐It's a really tricky question to answer bud, as the building game can seem like a closed book, especially for a complete outsider. You best bet would be trying a few builders merchants and tentatively asking if they know of any east going guys that do that kind of work🤞Send me a message on Instagram at thetallcarpenteruk and I'll see if I can think of anything more that might help you👍Cheers Del
Hi mate thank you for tour reply 👍 apologies if this comes in twice as I replied earlier buy may not have gone through. As I dont have Instagram I can leave my telephone number for WhatsApp. Any help is grately appreciated👍👍
If anyone can help please. Planning a kitchen.. what happens at the side of a large unit (say, double oven with cupboards or even an intergrated fridge freezer ect) from the worktop? A decor peice ontop of the side of cabinet? How far? To the worktop? Or top of unit to floor? Thanks if anyone answers.
Hi Alex🖐A decor end panel will go from the floor to the top of the tall unit, and if the there is no base unit next to it to support the worktop, then a length of thin aluminium angle or angle brackets are used to support it. (fixed to the to the tall end panel under the worktop)👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter hey thanks for the reply! Yes a base unit is next to it. The plan is from left to right is base units (inc hob ect) then double oven housing and then fridge freezer unit. So the decor pannel would go between base unit and tall unit. Would i need to fit worktop first? Or just slide worktop into gap afterwards? Thanks again. Your channel is eye opening
Hi Liam. The kitchens are by Crown, and supplied via a 3rd party to the builder.😀 They are not actually that bad for a contractor type kitchen.👍 Cheers
Thanks for the video. Question. How do you proceed when you receive rigid base cabinets not square by 1/4" along the height? Diagonals measuring different? Thanks
Hi Cristf. Its not ideal, and I have come across this before. In my case the unit sides were parallel to each other so I just tried to keep all the base units sort of straight along the top with the sides nice and plumb. As long as the doors are square, you can usually adjust them to look right👍 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the tip. The sides on my cabinets are also parallel. So if I understand, I keep the sides plumb vertical. Then make the top of the cabinet not level on its own but level across all the cabinets on the full length.
I've been selling and fitting kitchens for 40 years. coming across a kitchen that was glued to the wall and ripping the plaster and even the plaster board off the wall would really P me off! BAD TIP
Hi Andy. This kitchen is hardly 'glued to the wall' only a few small tabs here and there. I agree that new type adhesives can be over used but I certainly have not shown that in this video👍
Lol I fit kitchens in wonky as shit old houses getting a fixing on a old stone wall is pot luck. At times had to threaded bar an chem fit the top cabs.
Hi, I love ur vids for ur plain working attitude, no whistles and bells, plain working and practical tips. My tips are: hurry and get a stud finder (I use Bosch GMS 120 being a German )and you desperately need a set of Center Drills (snappy or Trend Craft Pro Quick Release 3 Piece Drill Bit Guide CR/QR/DBG/Set-3 Pack). U won‘‚ I regret . Keep on bringing ur good stuff 👍😁
Hi Ralph. The response to your tips are, yes, and yes😝 My current Boschh detector is rubbish, and I need my head testing for NEVER having used a centre drill🤯 Thanks for you cool comment and for making me spend more money💰 🤩 Cheers Del
Hi is there a standardised drill position measurement for kitchen door knobs Which are 34mm in diameter As coming to the end of our kitchen refurb with high gloss slab doors As cannot find online thanks in advance
Hi Mark🖐Some kitchen manufacturers put tiny little indents on the back of their doors to indicate the handle/knob drilling positions, but these will still be decided, I guess, by the kitchen designer🤔It usually comes down to customer choice, but we always seem to have them around 45/50 in from the opening edge, and 45/50mm down👍Cheers Del
Thanks for your support Tony. Although I've been doing the job for years, filming it and trying to present it is all new to me and I'm looking to try and improve this with every video.😁 Cheers.
Hi Dell Great video mate. That tip with the battons to maintain your spacings is great. After a small mishap😭 a couple of years ago i made a set of spacers like that except i cut an extra piece to size and stuck them together. I have several sets now marked up that i can just drop into place without the need measuring and pin into place like you did knowing the gap is spot on. Like your idea about sticking the units back although the belts and braces guys will be having a meltdown.🤣 Keep up the good work pal
Hi John. Its cool that you use the same teqnic for maintaining appliance spacings but have taken it a step further.😎 I know what you mean about 'belt and braces' when fixing back the base units, but the worktops really do keep them rock solid. Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
Hi there🖐Yes, pretty much👍The specific corner base and wall units do make it slightly more awkward in the room is out of square, but as you say, we just split the difference along each side👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@thetallcarpenter how would you go about doing this with a u shaped kitchen (with a peninsula)? I saw on another video of ensuring cabinets run parallel, but which wall to work with?
Hey bud, about to have my first go at making a kitchen - wondering if you have any sites in particular you like to source sheet materials from? Cheers.
Hi RC🖐I don't use any online sites to get materials as I'm very lucky to have an awesome timber merchants in my town👊Sorry I can't be any more help, and good luck with your project👍Cheers Del
Another helpful video while I'm in the process of installing my own flat pack kitchen cheers.. where I am in Australia most our house are built with double brick and plaster so almost never working on flat or square surfaces, and trying to find examples of this kind of install online is not easy 😄 however I think I'm doing OK so far. Thanks again. I'll be checking out more of your videos
Sounds like you've got your work cut out Matt😬I'm lucky that all my kitchens are fitted in new builds so my videos might not be quite as helpful for guys like you trying to fit to wonkey old buildings😲Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
It's nise to work on a kitchen knowing the walls are all squre and proper makes life easier. But we all know all jobs arnt like that great work again tall carpenter 💪
The way u explain everything is great not saying iam going to fit a kitchen next week but it's good to watch . Keep it up . That DeWalt saw is an animal 💪🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔧🔧🔨🔨🔨
Hi Daniel. Super comment, thank you.🤩 I'm a little bit scared of the DeWalt saw.😵 Using its a bit like dancing with Mike Tyson. One wrong move and its lights out.👊🤕Cheers.
Hi Harry. Thanks mate. I have not been doing them long and have learned a lot about video making. Its really great to be able to share a few tips and things that may help people.🤩 Thanks for your comment.😎
Hi sorry if this has already been asked but when I have fitted kitchen in the past I've always started in the corner and worked my way out keeping the back void the same or parallel, unless it's a long run of units and there is a bump in the wall,then I'd trim slightly. I try to keep the front line of the units straight. So if I had a long wall I'd keep the two ends parallel and straight edge the rest to it. Is this the correct method? Sometimes I have found that if there's a free standing cooker, and I allow a space the keep it parallel but if I put my square from wall to unit it's out of square. For example like you've done in the video with the battens. Are the exactly square to the wall or will that only work if the wall is straight?
Hi Daniel🖐Everything in your comment is correct, and exactly the way I do it, especially when setting units in longer runs👍 I think its really important to keep all the base units in a straight line, and, as you mention, will trim or pack the back of the units to achieve this👊How square the wall is to the side of the units is not as important as them being square to the front line of the units😎Thanks for your comment and for watching🤩Cheers Del
Yeah I'm impressed with it for the price. I've only been using it for a few months now but hasn't failed me yet. I'll put it to to the test with them blocks on my next kitchen.
@@thetallcarpenter yes sir. Used your method on a kitchen I finished this week. Used multi stick with the mdf blocks. Solid as. Another top tip. Again much appreciated buddy. Big love
@@thetallcarpenter Shocking mate. On our fits we take pics of the plumbing that's being covered for the clients that are usually unaware of such things. Bit of a selling point tho with us. Some don't give a monkeys but some really appreciate such consciousness. Little things eigh.
@@leerolfe5332 I hear you Lee. I've got a plumber mate whose pipe work is an exquisite display of the pride he takes in his job.😎 Sounds like you'd get along.👍
@@thetallcarpenter For sure. I'm 44 and was taught by the old school but am part of us stressed out trades with the introduction of internet and mobile phones. Simple rules tho, if its not good enough for your own house its not good enough eigh and if you're going to do it do it right. Taught that by a guy who's corgi number was 3 digits and when it was voluntary to be part of gas safe/corgi.
Hi JRS. I suspect its so it matches the wall unit run, as the wall units need end panels as the cooker hood is the same width as the base unit the hob sits in.👍 Personally, I don't like to see the hood fitted tight like that, and would have rather fitted a 50mm narrower wall unit each side of it which have than meant that there would have been no need for the base end panels either side of the hob drawer unit.😀 I think this is an example of lazy/budget based kitchen design, but does, however, maximise wall cupboard space.👍 Thanks for your comment.😎
@@thetallcarpenter I prefer a gap on the extractor too. Putting end panels in the base units like that really spoils the flow. Where is the kitchen from? I don't recognise it. I'm really enjoying this kitchen fitting series even though I do it myself most weeks. Your channel has been a good find. 👍
@@jrsuk1170 Its funny that the end panels in the base unit run also jumped out at you. Kitchens should have a flow, and details like that are clumsy looking. Ok if there is a free standing Stoves type cooker, but for integrated or draw units like this. Another guy rightly commented on the tall end panel breaking the plinth line, but I don't like joints on plinths unless it unavoidable, so the panel going to the floor was the lesser of the two evils.🤬 Appreciate you watching mate, and your input here in the comments.👍 (the kitchens are by Crown)
@@thetallcarpenter Yeah I spotted the tower end panel to the floor. I usually just do it the same as you - to avoid joining the plinth. If the run is over 3 metres I'll put the tower end to the floor, if not I keep it up to the bottom of the base units.
The tip with the end panel is awesome, I'll be doing that the next time 😀 The things you say about not fixing the base cabinets to the walls are true, I don't fix them to the walls when I do a corner/ L shaped kitchen, there's no real reason to do it because by the time the you have finished the hole installation of the kitchen, everything's working together and it's a very strong and heavy unit, but I do fix them in 3 points when is a straight kitchen. Keep the videos rolling 👍
Hi Ryno. Its good to get input from seasoned guys like you.😎 I think you're probably spot on about mechanically fixing the units on a single run.👍 Thanks for adding a comment about this, and for watching.🤩 Cheers.
Is that a Golden Virginia Tobacco tin I spot. Im still using half a dozen my Dad gave me from 44 years ago. They are so useful. I keep my punches and compass in. Great Videos BTW. We're never too old to learn new tips.
Hey Perry. Blimey, you must have good eyesight!!👀 Yes it is, and goodness knows how old it is.🤪I was given it by the chap that I first worked under as an apprentice bench joiner. That makes it 35 years old if it was new when HE gave it to me.😝 I put small drill bits, countersinks, screwdriver bits and the like in mine. So handy like you say.🤩 Thanks for watching and your great comment.👍
Really nice clear video, good idea sticking rather than screwing to the wall. What adhesive do you use? Some people prefer to hang the wall units first so the base units are out of the way. Have you ever done that?
Hi Dan. Sticks Like is my go to adhesive, and I have never fitted the wall units first as, if something is a little out, I find it easier to adjust the wall units to be in line with the base units than the other way round👍Do you fit the wall units first, and if so, how do you find it🤔 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I have to say no I have always fitted the base units first and then line the top units from them but guys I have worked with do it the other way round and never seemed to be an issue. I should have asked them when I had the chance
Brilliant videos mate. Just wanted to get your advice. How would you go about putting right a kitchen that is not 90 degrees. I been advised I needed to cut down back void until I get a 90 degrees. Thanks
Hi there. I take it that your corner is less than 90degrees?. I personally, would only cut the back of the unit void to get over a bump in the wall on a long run of units. It all depends on how many degrees out it is, but I would just follow the walls out from the corner units. Yes, it will be out of square, but so is your room. Its tricky to call without seeing it and knowing what the customers expectation's are.😁 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the swift reply. It's actually more than 90 degrees on one wall. Honestly your 5 part kitchen fitting is of ceasar level, brilliant. Gained some valuable tips. Thanks again
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for reply. If u ever work with me doing a kitchen you’ll hear me shouting sooner or later “Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh the f*****g end panelssss” lol. Keep up the good work mate. Hopefully ur subscriber count should start going up because it’s all good quality work.
@@paulmcgeoch2603 Hi Paul. Fortunately I can edit out all my swearing when something goes wrong. 🙉. Thanks for your kind words mate, and its great to hear from a fellow wood butcher. 🤠 Cheers.
Now that’s a top tip, screw the metal bracket on the panel to get it flush.👍🏻.
Great idea, I’ll be doing that next time. Cheers Del.
Hi Dan. Saves a bit of messing about 👍 I've got some roofing videos coming soon which should be up your street. 🤩 Thanks for watching mate and have a nice weekend. 😎
@@thetallcarpenter it’s the simple things that are genius. 🙌🏻.
Look forward to them, I see your mono truss roof, 👍🏻.
Thanks and to you. 🍻
Great job
Top tip with the sticky blocks. Pipes and cables, in old properties especially, can pretty much pop up anywhere. As you say, absolutely no need to go crazy with fixing the base units, when gravity will do all the heavy lifting for you. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Hi there. Yeah, I try and keep drilling holes to a minimum where possible.👍 Thanks for watching.😎
I’m glad I’m not the only Carpenter on here that thought the idea of the wall unit brackets / end panels was genius!! Bit embarrassed that I never thought of that before actually!...🧐
Great video as usual 👍
Keep em coming!
Hi Mark. The best tips are always the one that seem to most obvious once you're shown them🤯 Thanks for watching and mate, and your very honest comment🤩 Cheers
Yeah I thought that.
1 thing I do when putting feet on units is set the combination square to the hight of the plinth plus an 1/8 or so. Then sit the ruler end on the unit and wind the legs up to the square.
Hi Ryan. That's a great tip as I just use my tape. It is a really good habit to get into as it actually can save a lot of messing about on your knees turning the legs up or down.🤩 Thanks for your great comment.👍
🤩
fantastic tip at the end. Class!!!
Thanks again Garviel.🤩
Great job and some top tips. 👍
Hi there🖐 Glad you found it interesting 😀 Cheers Del
Great Vids a true professional 👍
Hi Daniel. What a lovely comment.😎 Thanks for watching.👍
Nice video, loads of great tips 👍
Thanks for watching Martin🤩
I use an off cut of white melamine as a gauge. So if say u want the top of the unit at 75cm from the floor, set the level at 80 cm. Then get a square off cut thats 10 cm and mark a line across it at 5cm. I simply stand the block on each corner and wind the feet up or down until the laser hits the line. Its very easy, accurate and quick.
I REALLY like that Billy🤩 It's much easier to read the laser against that mark than when it's skimming the top of the units👊 Superb tip🤗Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
That's a cool idea man! Hope I can remember that the next time I get a kitchen to do
Good idea sticking blocks, but you are sticking it to paint and not the wall and do you key the surface of the unit.
Hi there🖐You raise a great point, and on new work, this is not a problem, but on older or existing jobs, I would key the area I was going to stick to a bit. Don't forget, that in most cases, once the worktops are fitted and sealed back, the kitchen won't be going anywhere👊Cheers Del
Amazing how much you can learn!
We'll never stop learning bud🤩Cheers
Hi. Great video. Im a self employed kitchen fitter in London and looking for extra work, where and what would you recommend me to do? Thanks in advance
Hi Matteo🖐Its a really tricky one to advise on, if I'm being honest. I guess you could try contacting kitchen companies in your area to see if they need any fitters. Certainly, here in my area, there is huge demand for decent fitters. (50 miles north of London). Sorry I cant be much more help😬Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hello mate,great video. I really would like to learn kitchen fitting as I want to leave corporate and go back to working hands on instead of behind a desk. I have been asking around if anyone will let me shadow them for a day or so just to see what's it's like on the job, but no luck.
Any tips to just getting a look in? Thank you for your video!
Hi Michael🖐It's a really tricky question to answer bud, as the building game can seem like a closed book, especially for a complete outsider. You best bet would be trying a few builders merchants and tentatively asking if they know of any east going guys that do that kind of work🤞Send me a message on Instagram at thetallcarpenteruk and I'll see if I can think of anything more that might help you👍Cheers Del
Hi mate thank you for tour reply 👍 apologies if this comes in twice as I replied earlier buy may not have gone through. As I dont have Instagram I can leave my telephone number for WhatsApp. Any help is grately appreciated👍👍
Nice work 👍
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. 👍Cheers.
If anyone can help please.
Planning a kitchen.. what happens at the side of a large unit (say, double oven with cupboards or even an intergrated fridge freezer ect) from the worktop? A decor peice ontop of the side of cabinet? How far? To the worktop? Or top of unit to floor?
Thanks if anyone answers.
Hi Alex🖐A decor end panel will go from the floor to the top of the tall unit, and if the there is no base unit next to it to support the worktop, then a length of thin aluminium angle or angle brackets are used to support it. (fixed to the to the tall end panel under the worktop)👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter hey thanks for the reply! Yes a base unit is next to it. The plan is from left to right is base units (inc hob ect) then double oven housing and then fridge freezer unit. So the decor pannel would go between base unit and tall unit.
Would i need to fit worktop first? Or just slide worktop into gap afterwards?
Thanks again. Your channel is eye opening
@@chillievans I would fit the units and end panels first and then the work tops after👍Cheers Del
We're u. Get them units been using howdens but units all white I. Like colours unints
Hi Liam. The kitchens are by Crown, and supplied via a 3rd party to the builder.😀 They are not actually that bad for a contractor type kitchen.👍 Cheers
Thanks for the video. Question. How do you proceed when you receive rigid base cabinets not square by 1/4" along the height? Diagonals measuring different? Thanks
Hi Cristf. Its not ideal, and I have come across this before. In my case the unit sides were parallel to each other so I just tried to keep all the base units sort of straight along the top with the sides nice and plumb. As long as the doors are square, you can usually adjust them to look right👍 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the tip. The sides on my cabinets are also parallel. So if I understand, I keep the sides plumb vertical. Then make the top of the cabinet not level on its own but level across all the cabinets on the full length.
@@cristofg5750 Spot on mate. The top of each unit will be out of level slightly, but the bank of units will level from one end to the other👍👍
I've been selling and fitting kitchens for 40 years. coming across a kitchen that was glued to the wall and ripping the plaster and even the plaster board off the wall would really P me off! BAD TIP
Hi Andy. This kitchen is hardly 'glued to the wall' only a few small tabs here and there. I agree that new type adhesives can be over used but I certainly have not shown that in this video👍
Lol I fit kitchens in wonky as shit old houses getting a fixing on a old stone wall is pot luck. At times had to threaded bar an chem fit the top cabs.
Sounds like you have right bit of fun there bud🤪 You can always rely on the old resin and threaded bar though👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi, I love ur vids for ur plain working attitude, no whistles and bells, plain working and practical tips. My tips are: hurry and get a stud finder (I use Bosch GMS 120 being a German )and you desperately need a set of Center Drills (snappy or Trend Craft Pro Quick Release 3 Piece Drill Bit Guide CR/QR/DBG/Set-3 Pack). U won‘‚ I regret . Keep on bringing ur good stuff 👍😁
Hi Ralph. The response to your tips are, yes, and yes😝 My current Boschh detector is rubbish, and I need my head testing for NEVER having used a centre drill🤯 Thanks for you cool comment and for making me spend more money💰 🤩 Cheers Del
Hi is there a standardised drill position measurement for kitchen door knobs
Which are 34mm in diameter
As coming to the end of our kitchen refurb with high gloss slab doors
As cannot find online thanks in advance
Hi Mark🖐Some kitchen manufacturers put tiny little indents on the back of their doors to indicate the handle/knob drilling positions, but these will still be decided, I guess, by the kitchen designer🤔It usually comes down to customer choice, but we always seem to have them around 45/50 in from the opening edge, and 45/50mm down👍Cheers Del
Hi Del cracking video some great tips a tricks nicely done all the best Tony 👍
Thanks for your support Tony. Although I've been doing the job for years, filming it and trying to present it is all new to me and I'm looking to try and improve this with every video.😁 Cheers.
Hi Dell
Great video mate. That tip with the battons to maintain your spacings is great. After a small mishap😭 a couple of years ago i made a set of spacers like that except i cut an extra piece to size and stuck them together. I have several sets now marked up that i can just drop into place without the need measuring and pin into place like you did knowing the gap is spot on.
Like your idea about sticking the units back although the belts and braces guys will be having a meltdown.🤣
Keep up the good work pal
Hi John. Its cool that you use the same teqnic for maintaining appliance spacings but have taken it a step further.😎 I know what you mean about 'belt and braces' when fixing back the base units, but the worktops really do keep them rock solid. Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
if your walls are not at a perfect right angle do you just share the difference between the two sides. Great video
Hi there🖐Yes, pretty much👍The specific corner base and wall units do make it slightly more awkward in the room is out of square, but as you say, we just split the difference along each side👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@thetallcarpenter how would you go about doing this with a u shaped kitchen (with a peninsula)?
I saw on another video of ensuring cabinets run parallel, but which wall to work with?
Hey bud, about to have my first go at making a kitchen - wondering if you have any sites in particular you like to source sheet materials from? Cheers.
Hi RC🖐I don't use any online sites to get materials as I'm very lucky to have an awesome timber merchants in my town👊Sorry I can't be any more help, and good luck with your project👍Cheers Del
Great tip with the end panels 👍
Cheers Chris.😎
Another helpful video while I'm in the process of installing my own flat pack kitchen cheers.. where I am in Australia most our house are built with double brick and plaster so almost never working on flat or square surfaces, and trying to find examples of this kind of install online is not easy 😄 however I think I'm doing OK so far. Thanks again. I'll be checking out more of your videos
Sounds like you've got your work cut out Matt😬I'm lucky that all my kitchens are fitted in new builds so my videos might not be quite as helpful for guys like you trying to fit to wonkey old buildings😲Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
It's nise to work on a kitchen knowing the walls are all squre and proper makes life easier. But we all know all jobs arnt like that great work again tall carpenter 💪
I hear you Dave👍and its not like this for most people fitting kitchens😬Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
The way u explain everything is great not saying iam going to fit a kitchen next week but it's good to watch . Keep it up . That DeWalt saw is an animal 💪🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔧🔧🔨🔨🔨
Hi Daniel. Super comment, thank you.🤩 I'm a little bit scared of the DeWalt saw.😵 Using its a bit like dancing with Mike Tyson. One wrong move and its lights out.👊🤕Cheers.
Great video mate enjoying watching your videos keep them coming 👌🏽 quality workmanship 👍🏽
Hi Martin. Appreciate your kind words and your comment. 🤩 Cheers.
Great collections of videos that you have put up. Lots of helpful tips. Keep them coming
Hi Harry. Thanks mate. I have not been doing them long and have learned a lot about video making. Its really great to be able to share a few tips and things that may help people.🤩 Thanks for your comment.😎
Hi sorry if this has already been asked but when I have fitted kitchen in the past I've always started in the corner and worked my way out keeping the back void the same or parallel, unless it's a long run of units and there is a bump in the wall,then I'd trim slightly. I try to keep the front line of the units straight.
So if I had a long wall I'd keep the two ends parallel and straight edge the rest to it. Is this the correct method? Sometimes I have found that if there's a free standing cooker, and I allow a space the keep it parallel but if I put my square from wall to unit it's out of square. For example like you've done in the video with the battens. Are the exactly square to the wall or will that only work if the wall is straight?
Hi Daniel🖐Everything in your comment is correct, and exactly the way I do it, especially when setting units in longer runs👍 I think its really important to keep all the base units in a straight line, and, as you mention, will trim or pack the back of the units to achieve this👊How square the wall is to the side of the units is not as important as them being square to the front line of the units😎Thanks for your comment and for watching🤩Cheers Del
Thank you for your reply, I like watching your videos, keep them coming please 😁
@@danielblackmore1195 Will do Daniel👊
Defo guna use the sticky blocks
They are definitely OK for new, straight plastering👍Cheers Del
Another great video! Thnks
My pleasure 🙏 Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Love sticking them blocks on for fixing base units I will be using that on the next job. Have you tried multi sticks? Thanks as always bud
Hi Benjamin. I haven't tried Multi Stick 🙄Do you rate it🤔
Yeah I'm impressed with it for the price. I've only been using it for a few months now but hasn't failed me yet. I'll put it to to the test with them blocks on my next kitchen.
@@thetallcarpenter yes sir. Used your method on a kitchen I finished this week. Used multi stick with the mdf blocks. Solid as. Another top tip. Again much appreciated buddy. Big love
@@benjaminfisher5809 👍😎
Jesus! That plumbing has given my left eye Aids! what a mess. Good job you're covering that up fella :-/
I wonderer how long 8t would take someone to mention the standard of the pipework.😵.
@@thetallcarpenter Shocking mate. On our fits we take pics of the plumbing that's being covered for the clients that are usually unaware of such things. Bit of a selling point tho with us. Some don't give a monkeys but some really appreciate such consciousness. Little things eigh.
@@leerolfe5332 I hear you Lee. I've got a plumber mate whose pipe work is an exquisite display of the pride he takes in his job.😎 Sounds like you'd get along.👍
@@thetallcarpenter For sure. I'm 44 and was taught by the old school but am part of us stressed out trades with the introduction of internet and mobile phones. Simple rules tho, if its not good enough for your own house its not good enough eigh and if you're going to do it do it right. Taught that by a guy who's corgi number was 3 digits and when it was voluntary to be part of gas safe/corgi.
The end panel and glue block tips are great!
Hi Rodger. They are more than adequate on a corner type installation like this.👍 Thanks for your comment.🤩
That way you secured the units is top draw 🔥🔫
Thanks FB.🤩Cheers.
Some good tips👍
Why did the planner put end panels either side of the drawers?
Hi JRS. I suspect its so it matches the wall unit run, as the wall units need end panels as the cooker hood is the same width as the base unit the hob sits in.👍 Personally, I don't like to see the hood fitted tight like that, and would have rather fitted a 50mm narrower wall unit each side of it which have than meant that there would have been no need for the base end panels either side of the hob drawer unit.😀 I think this is an example of lazy/budget based kitchen design, but does, however, maximise wall cupboard space.👍 Thanks for your comment.😎
@@thetallcarpenter I prefer a gap on the extractor too. Putting end panels in the base units like that really spoils the flow. Where is the kitchen from? I don't recognise it.
I'm really enjoying this kitchen fitting series even though I do it myself most weeks.
Your channel has been a good find. 👍
@@jrsuk1170 Its funny that the end panels in the base unit run also jumped out at you. Kitchens should have a flow, and details like that are clumsy looking. Ok if there is a free standing Stoves type cooker, but for integrated or draw units like this. Another guy rightly commented on the tall end panel breaking the plinth line, but I don't like joints on plinths unless it unavoidable, so the panel going to the floor was the lesser of the two evils.🤬 Appreciate you watching mate, and your input here in the comments.👍 (the kitchens are by Crown)
@@thetallcarpenter Yeah I spotted the tower end panel to the floor. I usually just do it the same as you - to avoid joining the plinth. If the run is over 3 metres I'll put the tower end to the floor, if not I keep it up to the bottom of the base units.
The tip with the end panel is awesome, I'll be doing that the next time 😀 The things you say about not fixing the base cabinets to the walls are true, I don't fix them to the walls when I do a corner/ L shaped kitchen, there's no real reason to do it because by the time the you have finished the hole installation of the kitchen, everything's working together and it's a very strong and heavy unit, but I do fix them in 3 points when is a straight kitchen. Keep the videos rolling 👍
Hi Ryno. Its good to get input from seasoned guys like you.😎 I think you're probably spot on about mechanically fixing the units on a single run.👍 Thanks for adding a comment about this, and for watching.🤩 Cheers.
Is that a Golden Virginia Tobacco tin I spot. Im still using half a dozen my Dad gave me from 44 years ago. They are so useful. I keep my punches and compass in. Great Videos BTW. We're never too old to learn new tips.
Hey Perry. Blimey, you must have good eyesight!!👀 Yes it is, and goodness knows how old it is.🤪I was given it by the chap that I first worked under as an apprentice bench joiner. That makes it 35 years old if it was new when HE gave it to me.😝 I put small drill bits, countersinks, screwdriver bits and the like in mine. So handy like you say.🤩 Thanks for watching and your great comment.👍
Really nice clear video, good idea sticking rather than screwing to the wall. What adhesive do you use? Some people prefer to hang the wall units first so the base units are out of the way. Have you ever done that?
Hi Dan. Sticks Like is my go to adhesive, and I have never fitted the wall units first as, if something is a little out, I find it easier to adjust the wall units to be in line with the base units than the other way round👍Do you fit the wall units first, and if so, how do you find it🤔 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I have to say no I have always fitted the base units first and then line the top units from them but guys I have worked with do it the other way round and never seemed to be an issue. I should have asked them when I had the chance
Brilliant videos mate. Just wanted to get your advice. How would you go about putting right a kitchen that is not 90 degrees. I been advised I needed to cut down back void until I get a 90 degrees. Thanks
Hi there. I take it that your corner is less than 90degrees?. I personally, would only cut the back of the unit void to get over a bump in the wall on a long run of units. It all depends on how many degrees out it is, but I would just follow the walls out from the corner units. Yes, it will be out of square, but so is your room. Its tricky to call without seeing it and knowing what the customers expectation's are.😁 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the swift reply. It's actually more than 90 degrees on one wall.
Honestly your 5 part kitchen fitting is of ceasar level, brilliant. Gained some valuable tips. Thanks again
@@currentsolutions8467 Really glad they might have helped you.🤩 Its the only reason I'm doing videos.👍
Bloody end panels are a pain in the arse lol. Dunno how many times I’ve forgot to attach them. Nice work mate.
Hi Paul. Glad its not just me. 😆 You know what its like when you get in the, 'zone', sometimes you can, 'zone out'. 🤪 Thanks for your comment. Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for reply. If u ever work with me doing a kitchen you’ll hear me shouting sooner or later “Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh the f*****g end panelssss” lol. Keep up the good work mate. Hopefully ur subscriber count should start going up because it’s all good quality work.
@@paulmcgeoch2603 Hi Paul. Fortunately I can edit out all my swearing when something goes wrong. 🙉. Thanks for your kind words mate, and its great to hear from a fellow wood butcher. 🤠 Cheers.