Great GREAT !! Video... short, sweet and precise. EXACTLY what I was looking for... tape trick is fantastic as just getting into this and easy to explain the process to my children. I'l be sure to watch more of your videos... thank you so soooo much. Great work
Excellent Video!! Very Easy Instructions 👍 I'm about to build a mold to make a Headstone for My Infant Son 🙏🏼 Thanks , this will make it So Much Easier ❣️
Genius. I’m a beginner. I’ve never used resin before and landed here by necessity rather than hobby/interest. I have an odd project to do, nothing artsy. I’m creating freezer molds with rather specific dimensions from hard resin. The easiest way for me to make the mold is from wood but I was worried that it wouldn’t release…. Packing tape is the perfect solution!
Thank you for the tape trick. I've been searching for Plexiglass sheets I thought were necessary for my first big live edge resin pour for mt bathroom countertop. This is brilliant. 🌻🦖🌻
Thanks for watching!! I'm glad it helped! I'll have more tips and tricks videos up soon, too! Best of luck with the bartop, comment the link on here when it's done! I'd love to see it!
Thank you, thank you. I've been researching how to build a form and they suggested supplies I don't have and am not familiar with and more difficult skills like pocket screws. I was about to order polyethylene plastic sheets, sheathing tap, and melamine or HDPE board. I have everything you used on hand so you saved me around $300. With the cost of my walnut slab, epoxy and color I'm spending enough. This will be my first project and it's a doozie. A 4'x8' Island countertop. It's for me so if I mess up it's okay atleast I can say that I did it myself and I wanted it to be rustic 😂
Thanks for watching! I’m glad it helped! Best of luck with your first one! Come back when it’s done, I’d love to see how it turned out! P.S. don’t cheap out on resin. Home Depot stuff etc is garbage. Make sure the surface you build on is flat and level so the resin cures flat and level, and wait at least the minimum cure time before taking it out so it doesn’t warp!
Screws is also good to because they can be easily removed, if your like me and like to over do things to make sure it doesnt stick I use a cheap mold release spray...lol whatever you prefer or have....good video...short, and straight to the point
I love you🔥🔥🔥🔥Thanku soo much for sharing this it’s crazy how easy I made this and cheap while they r selling forms for like 85.00 and up Thanku soo much
Hey Gustavo, sorry i havent been active on here. i would cut a round base, and then use a flexible hardboard type material, i cant remember the name of it off the top of my head to be honest. but really anything that you can cover in tape, flex to the shape of the circle, and secure to the base.
Hey Chris....this video was exactly what i needed to see...thank you so much! I am a newborn basically in this....lol. ive been a general contractor....wood framing....for almost 25 years. Id like to possibly look at this as a new career!! My question is are these forms reusable? Thanks again for the informative video!!
Thanks so much for watching! Yes, I suggest using thicker ply for reuse, and better quality tape. Just ensure you use screws instead of nails, and check the tape for any needed spot repairs in between uses! Enjoy!
Have you ever thought about using silicone edge molding for pouring concrete countertops? Creating a sculptured edge. Might look cool and can be reused over and over.
I've never done one with concrete before! I'd love to though! I have though about experimenting with different materials for molds, and I'm currently working on a bartop for which I'm using HDPE sheets for the mold! Thanks for watching!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt what I meant was using the silicone edge molding designed for concrete countertops to make a sculptured edge on your resin tables. Not sure if it would work but might be worth looking into. Look it up and see what you think.
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Hi Chris, I'm looking to create a mold for my bartop also. The top has a lot of curves to it though. And the piece I want to replicate is only 1/4 inch higher than the outer edges. So how would you build a mold for the curvy part and make it about a 1/2 inch high???
Perfect for my needs. One question: I have multiple boards to do that are the exact same size. Is it easy to nail the form back together and reseal so I don't have to build another?
Hi Chris, this is great: I like the instructions and how the video is comprehensive without being overwhelming. Question: If I wanted to join two live edge pieces, (4 live edges total) and pour epoxy between the two pieces, could I do the same plywood taped base, and then only frame off the ends? Ever tried this before? I've seen lots of videos with the full box form/mold, but none where there's a live edge (or two!) type mold.
yes, you can, however you will most likely get epoxy to bleed through the joints where the pieces of wood meet. if you are doing a form around the entire thing, that may not matter (although the colored resin would be noticeable). my suggestion would be to join the pieces of wood first, seal the seams with a bit of resin to prevent that, and then put it in the form. hope that helps!
Thanks for this tutorial. I'm making a beach rockpool resin diorama for my sister in a wooden box and want to make a resin lid that resembles waves. I tried making a mould and completely forgot to consider if the resin will 'release'. It didn't. On to attempt 2 with packing tape.
Thank you! It depends on how carefully you can get the piece out. Plus using screws is better than pin nails. If anything, you just need to clean off the old silicone, fix any tears in the tape with new tape, and that’s it. Use 1/2” ply too, not the junk I used in the video lol
Hey Chris thanks for the great video. Looking for a bit of advice. I'm going to create a panel like this, cut it into squares and make a lampshade. Any idea the best way to cut through it and glue the corners? Should they be mitered corners?
Hey thank you! You can cut through epoxy on a table saw, and you can glue epoxy to epoxy with... epoxy. Lol just sand the edges to be glued. You can do miters or butt joints, just depends on the look you want! Does that answer your question?
Thanks for watching! For large/deep pours, use a resin like Superclear Deep Pour. It’s like water and the bubbles come almost completely out on their own. For thicker resins, stir slowly for a longer period of time - 8 to 10 mins - annoying, but it will keep down the amount of bubbles introduced. And once it’s poured, wait 15-20 minutes to pop the bubbles with a propane torch or heat gun. Then just periodically check to see if more bubbles need popping!
There are a couple ways to do it, some more difficult to explain l. But one super simple way would be to get a stair tread, make a silicone mold of it, then pour into that! (If the whole thing is to be epoxy)
I loved the video. I would like to see different a mold made from materials that you don't have to use saw blade with. Recycled materials. I think that would be cool. I'm new to resin My name is Sonya
thanks so much! for this, anything flat lol. this was a last minute form i built on a whim, but I prefer to use at least 1/2" thick ply or melamine because its easier to keep flat. this video used 1/4" or 3/8", and the cheaper the better lol. i tend to use scraps when available.
It's a little mor complicated, but you start with cutting a circular base and wrap a flexible type of material around it, wrapped in tape, and silicone. Also, I have seen an hdpe base with hula hoops taped up as the sides 😂
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks so much for the quick reply! You are awesome!!! Have you ever used a glass base? I have an old glass table top - metal frame and legs need to be tossed. Would you wrap that in tape? …or use as is and let the resin stick to it? I plan to float agate slices in clear resin for a patio table.
@@susanberlin7077 that sounds awesome! I've never worked with a glass base. But being that glass is slick, if it were mine I would probably scuff it up a bit first so that the resin has a surface to adhere to. But I always test my theories first. So if you can find a few scrap pieces of glass, maybe try each method?
As Chris said cut the round base out of plywood add the tape and to get the edges to conform to the circle there is a plywood we call wigglewood which is bendable. Find the thickness of plywood 1/4" etc that will work and then the circumference, cut tape and nail. There are silicone circular forms for epoxy, I can't remember the name....Craft..something!
Thanks so much! You can use HDPE sheets instead of wood with tape. Or you can use melamine without tape, but you should use a mold release agent with it. Also, the seams need to be sealed with silicone, caulk, or similar. You will just need to remove that afterwards. Make sure it is completely dry before pouring epoxy on it. They also sell silicone molds online that have various shapes etc and are very easy to demold.
You should be able to use hot glue to seal the corners although there is a risk of being burned, and it may be harder to get off or ensure a good seal. Products like caulk and silicone are easy to spread neatly and fill the gaps very well since that is what they were designed to do, and you dont need to worry about being burned.
Can you do other shapes such as curved edges, Im trying to replace broken glass top in vintage LANE Mid century three leaf clover shaped living room table ⁉️🙏🙏🙏
Good video, thank you for this. Couple of questions: 1) Any kind of packing tape works for this? 2) Is it OK to use screws instead of nails? I'm thinking maybe I could unscrew the walls or is that not advisable?
Thanks! Yes yu can, just use screws instead of of nailer to put it together, and check for any repairs that may need to be made to the tape before next use!
Hi, just found your channel, and I am enjoying your videos. I was wondering if screws were used for the for form, would we have any luck reusing it a couple of times? Because reusable silicone ones seem expensive when the day 20 uses is at the high end.
Dude, you just helped save me about $14 on tape lol. I'm going to legit do mine's this way but I got a question tho. You didn't need any mold releasing agent like silicone spray? The epoxy comes off just like it did in the video?
Hey thanks for watching! Glad I could bring some value to you! When using tape or HDPE sheets, you do not need mold release (It pops right off the hdpe as soon as you cut the silicone line). If you use melamine, you MUST use a release agent. I personally hate using melamine. I've never had it come off cleanly. Something ALWAYS get stuck to it, primarily the sides. Then they break and cant be reused. Also, if you use screws instead of pin nails, this style is more reusable.
if your pour was not right is the only time you might need to use spray release.{ from experience} it also sometimes creates little air pockets on a clear pour you can see them but you can always sand them out. I hope this helps
Perfect. Been looking for an alternative to the $200 silicone molds out there. I'm embarking on charcuterie and cutting boards with epoxy between live edge slabs, and I'm not quite ready to commit to big money to set this up until I do some. Question, can you RE-USE these molds? Why brads and not good screws? What resin do you use?
Thanks for watching! May I make a suggestion? Those silicone molds may be expensive, but you can put up “walls” inside and do multiple pieces at once. Now, you can also do that with this type of form, just gotta get creative. Just ensure that the surface you are using for all this is flat and level so you don’t need to flatten a bunch and waste material 🤙 best of luck!!
Remember, don’t look at things as expensive when they are really investments. A silicone mold will outlast these diy ones, save you TONS of time (both in assembly, cleanup and repair), and can be used over and over again! 👊👊
@@ChrisHaggertyArt I hear you. If I look at the tools in my shop that way, I guess I need to look at molds the SAME way, huh? LOL! Have been looking at Crafted Elements, and they seem to be the leader in silicone molds that are reusable over and over and over. So, for ~200 you can get a mold that'll last forever (or so it seems with a little care). I'm VERY interested in the "wall" idea you mentioned... can yo elaborate? What resin do you use?
The resin I use depends entirely on the project at hand. For almost all my previous art videos, I used total boat high performance 2:1 with medium hardener. However I rarely use that now due to the very high cost. I have grown fond of chill3d, and if I have a large volume pour, I will be turning to superclear deep pour
It can be reused, but use screws instead of nails. Also, you may need to repair the tape if done peels or tears. But this method is just to make a form in a pinch, not really a permanent solution.
it depends on the use. for a table, i'd recommend an inch at bare minimum. my tables are at least 1.5" thick. for wall art they can be thinner. however, make sure the form is flat and that the resin has cured for at least the recommended time in the instructions.
Will this method allow for multiple uses? It seems the form’s side pieces can be reused, but wanted to be sure. My vision is to do radiused/curved sides if possible. I was tempted to sacrifice this vision by getting an 18”x12” rectangle silicone mold for $140, but if I don’t have to that would be nice. I’m looking to do cutting boards similar to the epoxy river style. Can’t seem to find a good video on diy silicone mold forms. I’m willing to do that too and have a 3D printer if that would help. I appreciate this video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! They can be reused, just use screws instead of pin nails, and you’ll probably need to repair places where the tape may rip. The thicker the plywood you use, the more durable the form will be. I don’t think 140 for a silicone mold is a bad deal, especially with the cost of wood right now. I use this tape and ply method when I already have these materials on hand. The radius idea would definitely work, you can even use taped mdf or thinner ply to get the curvature for the sides. The thick ply is for the base of the form to keep it stiff and flat. I hope this answers your question!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Ah, okay, great! Thank you for the quick reply and details. I think I will get the mold while 20% off right now. Maybe even cutting the sides after the pour if not too much is wasted, idk, but thanks again.
Awesome share! Liked and subscribed! Can us use a router or how do you make the edges rounded? I have a table that needs rounded edges and I’m lost. I already didn’t mix the resin correctly and have a half cured mess
Thank you!! Yes, once the piece is out of the form, knock down any edges/lips and trim to size/square it. Then a router can be used to do a roundover or chamfer! That's how I do my edge treatment. After that's is all done, then I finish the piece, usually with total boat tabletop epoxy 👍 Which epoxy did you use that didnt cure?
Thanks for sharing. These videos are very inspiring. I do have a question that I hope can be answered. I'll be pouring my first table top on a very large workbench I just built. I would like to make the epoxy table top removable so I could pour a new one once it wears out (or if I need to dis-assemble the table in the future). Could I cover the table in tinfoil or wax paper so the epoxy wont stick the the workbench when pouring, or is there a better method? The wood top that I'm pouring on is just regular OSB board, Thanks for any advice!
Im glad it helps! Thanks for watching! Ijust need a bit of clarification, is the workbench being poured on, or a separate table top? If you are doing a flood coat on a table top, first put plastic sheeting over the workbench to keep the epoxy off of it, then elevate the tabletop you are pouring on with something underneath to keep it off the table directly. Does that help?
@@ChrisHaggertyArt The workbench is about 8 feet long by 3 feet wide and mounted to a wall in a pole-barn. I'm hoping to pour directly on to it. Once it wears out in a few years, I'm hoping to be able to pull the epoxy top off and just pour a new one. I will be adding a dye in the epoxy mix, so I'm not too concerned about appearance under the epoxy. My biggest concern is making sure that the epoxy doesn't stick at all to the table top so it can be easily removed in the future. Thanks so much for the reply!
To be honest I’ve never heard of applying epoxy to be removed. I would imagine it wouldn’t stay and would probably break if it wasn’t adhered to something properly. What about making a separate top that you screw to the main top from underneath? So you can take it off and then make a new one?
Hi thks for your video. I'm thinking to do it on the stairs of my home but. I don't know if it will work. Step by step. An if it is strong enough. Pls would like your comments.
Hi, good day Do you use any mold release agent on top of the tape? Or is it enough with just a tape on top of the wood? Thanks, really appreciate your reply.
If it will be coating the top and the sides, you can put painters tape on the bottom right up the the edge so you can remove the drips that collect underneath. If it’s not supposed to be on the edges, you can put painters tape covering the sides right up to the top edge (and overhanging the bottom so drips don’t go on the bottom). I’m either case, don’t wait for it to cure 100% before peeling the tape. Peel it when it is mostly cured but has a bit of flex - much easirr
Awesome video and very detailed! Question..what do I look for in the store when it comes to pouring epoxy brand wise. And will I need other stuff like a hardener? I'm a beginner. Thanks again!
Thank you! And thanks for watching! There are a lot of types of epoxies for different applications and for different pour depths, etc. So it kind of depends. As a rule, the epoxies sold in stores like home depot etc are usually not amazing quality. They are good for just starting out, filling small pockets in carvings and signs etc. When you buy epoxy resin, it comes with the appropriate hardener. They will be packaged together. Can you tell me more about your project so I can be of more help? And congrats on getting into epoxy!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt i just wanna do roughly a 15" x 40" box about maybe 1 1/2" to 2" height. Basically enough to put those led lights inside. I want to make an led box basically to put on my entire barbershop station counter.
Sorry just to clarify if I go to a hardware store what wood/mdmf am I asking for please? Also if nailing to hold together depending on the size on the mold I assume at each side a nail and two in the center would do it ?
Hey! I would recommend making the firm out of half inch or 3/4" plywood or mdf (the smoother, the easier the tape will stick to it, but it doesn't need to be the top grade or anything). And yeah you dont need to go crazy on nails or screws because the the silicone will help hold it together too. Just wait until the silicone is cured before putting things into the form.
Hey! As long as you are careful pulling it out of the mold, and you use screws instead of nails, it should be just fine for use again! When taking things out of the mold, use a smooth wedge and tap it under in the direction the tape is laid to minimize damaging the tape. Make sure to clean off old silicone and re-seal the edges with silicone the next time you put it together. If any of the tape rips, just patch the spot with more tape. Packing tape is the least expensive but the least durable. Sheathing tape is the most expensive (by a lot) but the most durable. For a more reusable form, I suggest HDPE. It is more expensive but is usable many times over. Thanks for watchign!!
I di t see why not, the o ly issue you may run into is cupping. In this video I used 3/8" ply, and even that is too flimsy. When epoxy cures, it can shrink a bit which pulls the sides inward. My way to combat this is thicker plywood (3/4") clamping down the wood on either end (if applicable). If you used cardboard, I would make absolutely sure that it is on a super flat surface when you pour to help minimize that possibility. As for the sides, I'm not sure how stable it would be. Epoxy is pretty heavy, so I would worry that if the sides of the form were made of cardboard, that it would burst of the pour were large enough. If you use cardboard with success, please let me know! I'd love to hear your experience!
If I want to......could I make the form out of wood, but also never remove the finished piece form the form.....so basically what I am asking is can I just build the form for the frame and base of the table? If that makes any sense. I really want to make a table with some sand and shells, but I like the idea of having a wooden border and base to my table. Thought maybe if I reached out you could give me some advice. Thank you.
Absolutely. If you put down a permanent backer, and a frame, and put all the contents inside, you can absolutely do that. I'm about to make a couple pieces like that myself. If you want some beach piece advice, watch my massive beach art video. I'm also coming out with a more in depth beach piece video next!
What epoxy would be strong enough to for a 12x12 square a half inch thick that could be strong enough to hold a TV to a wall mount? Weird project I'm working on. Need it to hold about 70.
Hi, thank you very much for this beautiful video. I have a wooden mold. I want to pour epoxy into this wood mold. But most likely, the epoxy will stick and I won't take it off. Can I easily remove it if I stick tape around the wooden mold like you and pour epoxy? My mold breaks in half, and the top and bottom are open. Do you recommend the band for this? Or is there another way you can suggest it?
@Chris Haggerty Art thank you. I did my first pour the other day, and I learned the hard way to NOT use wood as a mold. Luckily, I had some wiggle room on the sides and was able to cut with a table saw to remove the wood. Lesson learned!
I suggest polishing it. Matt’s Woodworks does an amazing job explaining the process: th-cam.com/video/iPFQHDFuXNM/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUWbWF0dHMgd29vZHdvcmtzIHBvbGlzaA%3D%3D th-cam.com/video/qOl47h9Nw2M/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUWbWF0dHMgd29vZHdvcmtzIHBvbGlzaA%3D%3D
Can you come open a workshop in Nigeria please, i will work for you and trust me this is very rare here and a lot of rich people will pay to have these
Thank you! I poured straight into the mold. If you make a melamine form, you need to use mold release. If you use the tape method or hdpe sheets, you do need mold release. The epoxy releases from it relatively easily!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt This answer says you need mold release for both melanmine and tape. Is that correct? Or NO mold release for tape. What about using sarah wrap and taping the edges?
@@TheTenantPlacementGroup no mold release needed for tape. highly suggested for melamine forms. all edges of a form should be sealed with silicone, because resin is a liquid and will leak out. I've never used saran wrap, so i cant advise
It does imprint the bottom. They can be sanded out though. Or you can do a very thin flood coat of the bottom, and they will disappear 👍 I've started using HDPE for many of my forms, which as long as it's not scratched, etc, leaves a great finish and doesnt need tape, mold release, etc. 👍 but taking 120-150 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander takes care of the lines on the bottom in no time
Great GREAT !! Video... short, sweet and precise. EXACTLY what I was looking for... tape trick is fantastic as just getting into this and easy to explain the process to my children.
I'l be sure to watch more of your videos... thank you so soooo much. Great work
Thanks so much for watching! I’m so glad it helped!
Excellent Video!! Very Easy Instructions 👍
I'm about to build a mold to make a Headstone for My Infant Son 🙏🏼 Thanks , this will make it So Much Easier ❣️
I’m so terribly sorry for your loss 💔 I pray for strength and comfort for you and your family 🙏
Thank you so much. Now I can move forward in making a small table with some live edged wood I acquired, and epoxy!.
That’s awesome! Glad I could help!
I’ve literally been stuck at the home part of my brainchild for so long and this is the step that has held me up. Thank you. You rock
Thanks for watching! I’m so glad it helped!
Thanks for the straight to the point expalnation, was a helpful reference for me!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Great idea! The pre cast silicone molds are way too expensive and this does the job!
thanks so much! i'm a big fan of using every bit of material i have. I don't like to waste stuff!
thank you for this video, huge boost in confidence starting my first project knowing I can make a simple mold that will work, cheers bud!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Genius. I’m a beginner. I’ve never used resin before and landed here by necessity rather than hobby/interest. I have an odd project to do, nothing artsy. I’m creating freezer molds with rather specific dimensions from hard resin. The easiest way for me to make the mold is from wood but I was worried that it wouldn’t release…. Packing tape is the perfect solution!
Awesome!! Glad it helped!!
Great video with excellent descriptions
Thank you!! I'll be mong more soon, just bee caught up in other stuff!
Just the video i was looking for. Thanks my man.
Thank you!! I'm glad it helped!!
Thank you for the tape trick. I've been searching for Plexiglass sheets I thought were necessary for my first big live edge resin pour for mt bathroom countertop. This is brilliant. 🌻🦖🌻
Thanks for watching!! I'm glad it helped! I'll have more tips and tricks videos up soon, too! Best of luck with the bartop, comment the link on here when it's done! I'd love to see it!
Thank you, thank you. I've been researching how to build a form and they suggested supplies I don't have and am not familiar with and more difficult skills like pocket screws. I was about to order polyethylene plastic sheets, sheathing tap, and melamine or HDPE board. I have everything you used on hand so you saved me around $300. With the cost of my walnut slab, epoxy and color I'm spending enough. This will be my first project and it's a doozie. A 4'x8' Island countertop. It's for me so if I mess up it's okay atleast I can say that I did it myself and I wanted it to be rustic 😂
Thanks for watching! I’m glad it helped!
Best of luck with your first one! Come back when it’s done, I’d love to see how it turned out!
P.S. don’t cheap out on resin. Home Depot stuff etc is garbage.
Make sure the surface you build on is flat and level so the resin cures flat and level, and wait at least the minimum cure time before taking it out so it doesn’t warp!
Screws is also good to because they can be easily removed, if your like me and like to over do things to make sure it doesnt stick I use a cheap mold release spray...lol whatever you prefer or have....good video...short, and straight to the point
Yes screws are preferred. Thanks so much for watching!
I love you🔥🔥🔥🔥Thanku soo much for sharing this it’s crazy how easy I made this and cheap while they r selling forms for like 85.00 and up Thanku soo much
Aww thank you! No problem! I'm so glad this helped you!!
Very helpful and encouraging for beginners:)
Thanks! Glad it could help!!
It feels like you literally saved my life👍
thanks so much for watching!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Would this work for making something like a scythe blade on a bamboo stick?
If it was shaped appropriately, i dont see why not! I would personally make the blade separately, then attach afterwards.
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks for the info!
Of course!
Thank you, I want to make a desk but was hesitant about the form.
Glad this helped!!
This was awesome and simple
Thanks for watching!!
dude totally what i was looking for.
awesome! glad it could help you! love the SURGE picture haha thats a throwback!
Thanks for the good mold advise👍
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!! I appreciate it!!
This is fantastic!! Thank you!!
Thank you! I’m glad it helped!
Woodprix has very good and accurate plans.
Are you advertising for them on my video by chance?
I love how you made it so simple. And yes I do have the materials hanging around in my shop
Thanks so much for watching!! Glad I could help! Any other questions, feel free to reach out!
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks man, great video and tips. Subsribing right away!
Thanks so much!! Glad it helped!! I've been slacking on TH-cam but I'll be posting more soon!!
Thanks, going to go make one now!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Thanks! So much cheaper then buying a big silicone mold or something pre-made.
I agree!! Glad this could help! Eventually if you do enough of the same size molds, a reusable hdpe form becomes a good investment!
Loved your video!!!! Thank you.
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for the video. Clear and easy.
Thabks so much for watching! More will be out soon, just been way behind on my TH-cam content!
Hi Chris really good video and well explained. Can you tell me how you would create same for a round table. Thank you
Hey Gustavo, sorry i havent been active on here. i would cut a round base, and then use a flexible hardboard type material, i cant remember the name of it off the top of my head to be honest. but really anything that you can cover in tape, flex to the shape of the circle, and secure to the base.
OH ITS ON! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!
Oh Yas! 😉🤗😉 Great job abs beautiful pieces! Thanks 😊
No problem! Thanks for watching!!
Thank this was much needed
No problem! Thanks for watching!!
Hey Chris....this video was exactly what i needed to see...thank you so much! I am a newborn basically in this....lol. ive been a general contractor....wood framing....for almost 25 years. Id like to possibly look at this as a new career!! My question is are these forms reusable? Thanks again for the informative video!!
Thanks so much for watching! Yes, I suggest using thicker ply for reuse, and better quality tape. Just ensure you use screws instead of nails, and check the tape for any needed spot repairs in between uses! Enjoy!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you so much for the information and quick response! I'm very excited to get started!
@user-cd5zg4kl9v best of luck with everything!!
Fabulous video thank you
thanks so much!
I agree, very pretty
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Have you ever thought about using silicone edge molding for pouring concrete countertops? Creating a sculptured edge. Might look cool and can be reused over and over.
I've never done one with concrete before! I'd love to though! I have though about experimenting with different materials for molds, and I'm currently working on a bartop for which I'm using HDPE sheets for the mold! Thanks for watching!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt what I meant was using the silicone edge molding designed for concrete countertops to make a sculptured edge on your resin tables. Not sure if it would work but might be worth looking into. Look it up and see what you think.
@@michaelmcguire5338 ok I'll definitely check it out! Thanks so much! Sounds like an awesome feature!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Hi Chris, I'm looking to create a mold for my bartop also. The top has a lot of curves to it though. And the piece I want to replicate is only 1/4 inch higher than the outer edges. So how would you build a mold for the curvy part and make it about a 1/2 inch high???
Hi Chris, thanks for the video. With the packing tape is it leaving lines on the bottom/back?
yes it will. they will need to be sanded out, or sanded/polished.
Genius. I've been wondering what kind of material to purchase, not even considering you can just use wood and tape 😁
Thanks!! I like to keep it simple 😂
Perfect for my needs. One question: I have multiple boards to do that are the exact same size. Is it easy to nail the form back together and reseal so I don't have to build another?
Bro awesome vedio for many i was looking for it to mmake moulds 👍
But what is the size of plywood you selected to make moulds
Thank you! I normally use 1/2” ply but I’ve used 1/4 and 3/8”. Half inch is just much more flat. The flatter the better!
A better instruction tha most. Thanks
im glad it helped! thanks so much for watching!
Hi Chris, this is great: I like the instructions and how the video is comprehensive without being overwhelming. Question: If I wanted to join two live edge pieces, (4 live edges total) and pour epoxy between the two pieces, could I do the same plywood taped base, and then only frame off the ends? Ever tried this before? I've seen lots of videos with the full box form/mold, but none where there's a live edge (or two!) type mold.
yes, you can, however you will most likely get epoxy to bleed through the joints where the pieces of wood meet. if you are doing a form around the entire thing, that may not matter (although the colored resin would be noticeable). my suggestion would be to join the pieces of wood first, seal the seams with a bit of resin to prevent that, and then put it in the form. hope that helps!
Thanks for this tutorial. I'm making a beach rockpool resin diorama for my sister in a wooden box and want to make a resin lid that resembles waves. I tried making a mould and completely forgot to consider if the resin will 'release'. It didn't. On to attempt 2 with packing tape.
Thanks for watching! I'd love to see the finished product! Send me a dm on Instagram instagram.com/chrishaggertyart
Thanks, that was useful!
Thanks for watching!
SO HELPFUL! THANK YOU!
No problem!! Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!!
Very helpful😊 thank you ☺️
Thanks for watching!
Quick and easy.
Thanks
Thanks for watching! 👊
Good video thank you
Thanks so much!
Thank you dude, 👍👍👍
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
it was great!
🙏🙏🙏
Awesome video. How easy is it to reuse the mould, is it a case of just removing the old tape and reapplying it?
Thank you! It depends on how carefully you can get the piece out. Plus using screws is better than pin nails. If anything, you just need to clean off the old silicone, fix any tears in the tape with new tape, and that’s it. Use 1/2” ply too, not the junk I used in the video lol
Hey Chris thanks for the great video. Looking for a bit of advice. I'm going to create a panel like this, cut it into squares and make a lampshade. Any idea the best way to cut through it and glue the corners? Should they be mitered corners?
Hey thank you! You can cut through epoxy on a table saw, and you can glue epoxy to epoxy with... epoxy. Lol just sand the edges to be glued. You can do miters or butt joints, just depends on the look you want! Does that answer your question?
I don’t know if this has been asked, but can you use contact paper instead of tape? Thank you in advance!
It has not been asked, but I don’t know! Never tried! Thanks for watching!
Cool video. What is your thoughts on mold release?
Thank you! I’ve used it but not with tons of success. But some people love it 🤷♂️
Nice video man! I have tons of those materials on hand. Signed Lefty
Thanks man! Its the best type of form when you dont need to buy anything extra! 👊👊
Very helpful thank you. How do you personally avoid bubbles on big pours like the ones in this video?
Thanks for watching!
For large/deep pours, use a resin like Superclear Deep Pour. It’s like water and the bubbles come almost completely out on their own.
For thicker resins, stir slowly for a longer period of time - 8 to 10 mins - annoying, but it will keep down the amount of bubbles introduced. And once it’s poured, wait 15-20 minutes to pop the bubbles with a propane torch or heat gun. Then just periodically check to see if more bubbles need popping!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Cool, thanks for the insight! Much appreciated :)
@@leojames7331 no problem!!👊
Thank you for your tips!!
No problem! Glad I could help!!
Liked, subscribed, and shared! Awesome video!
Thank you so much!!!
Can you reuse the same wood? If the projects are the same size or is it kinda a one time use thing?
Yes you can reuse it, you just may need to spot-fix the tape a bit
Can the form be screwed together instead of nailing? Do you also you some type of spray mold release?
Yes. I just made this one quick and dirty.
Awesome video! Any tips for creating a bullnose shape of a stair tread mold? Having trouble with the idea of a "J"-like shape.
Absolutely! It may be easier for me to explain on the phone. You can call me at 8647572588 and I'll explain lol
There are a couple ways to do it, some more difficult to explain l. But one super simple way would be to get a stair tread, make a silicone mold of it, then pour into that! (If the whole thing is to be epoxy)
I loved the video. I would like to see different a mold made from materials that you don't have to use saw blade with. Recycled materials. I think that would be cool. I'm new to resin
My name is Sonya
If I come across a way and use it, I'll be sure to post it°
Nice work!
What grade of plywood did you use?
thanks so much! for this, anything flat lol. this was a last minute form i built on a whim, but I prefer to use at least 1/2" thick ply or melamine because its easier to keep flat. this video used 1/4" or 3/8", and the cheaper the better lol. i tend to use scraps when available.
Great video and easy to understand! How would you make a 24”-30” round form?
It's a little mor complicated, but you start with cutting a circular base and wrap a flexible type of material around it, wrapped in tape, and silicone. Also, I have seen an hdpe base with hula hoops taped up as the sides 😂
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks so much for the quick reply! You are awesome!!!
Have you ever used a glass base? I have an old glass table top - metal frame and legs need to be tossed. Would you wrap that in tape? …or use as is and let the resin stick to it? I plan to float agate slices in clear resin for a patio table.
@@susanberlin7077 that sounds awesome! I've never worked with a glass base. But being that glass is slick, if it were mine I would probably scuff it up a bit first so that the resin has a surface to adhere to. But I always test my theories first. So if you can find a few scrap pieces of glass, maybe try each method?
Did you make the round form? If not
As Chris said cut the round base out of plywood add the tape and to get the edges to conform to the circle there is a plywood we call wigglewood which is bendable. Find the thickness of plywood 1/4" etc that will work and then the circumference, cut tape and nail. There are silicone circular forms for epoxy, I can't remember the name....Craft..something!
So informative.. Very nice work
But I've a question.. What else we can use for seal that mold.
Thanks so much! You can use HDPE sheets instead of wood with tape. Or you can use melamine without tape, but you should use a mold release agent with it. Also, the seams need to be sealed with silicone, caulk, or similar. You will just need to remove that afterwards. Make sure it is completely dry before pouring epoxy on it. They also sell silicone molds online that have various shapes etc and are very easy to demold.
@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you so much..
@@ChrisHaggertyArt can we use wood glue or supper glue or mseal or hot glue for sealing the cornors... Any of these
You should be able to use hot glue to seal the corners although there is a risk of being burned, and it may be harder to get off or ensure a good seal. Products like caulk and silicone are easy to spread neatly and fill the gaps very well since that is what they were designed to do, and you dont need to worry about being burned.
@@ChrisHaggertyArt got it.. Thank you
Fabulous thanks
Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!!
Can you do other shapes such as curved edges, Im trying to replace broken glass top in vintage LANE Mid century three leaf clover shaped living room table ⁉️🙏🙏🙏
Yes, they sell a flexible mdf type material you can use for the curved walls, just cover in tape the same and silicone the seams still!
Good video, thank you for this. Couple of questions: 1) Any kind of packing tape works for this? 2) Is it OK to use screws instead of nails? I'm thinking maybe I could unscrew the walls or is that not advisable?
Yes any packing tape should work, and screws instead of nails is fine. Just use silicone
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thank you!
Nice! Can you reuse those molds?
Thanks! Yes yu can, just use screws instead of of nailer to put it together, and check for any repairs that may need to be made to the tape before next use!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you for your time! Merry Christmas!
Of course! Merry Christmas!!
Broooo! This is SO fucking awesome! Thank you so much for this video. Just saved me a ton of money on buying molds!
thanks so much! I'm glad it was able to help!!
Hi, just found your channel, and I am enjoying your videos. I was wondering if screws were used for the for form, would we have any luck reusing it a couple of times? Because reusable silicone ones seem expensive when the day 20 uses is at the high end.
Yes, I suggest screws if you plan on reusing!
Nice Vid bud! keep up the good work!
Thanks!! I appreciate it! I'll have more coming shortly, just been behind on things
Dude, you just helped save me about $14 on tape lol. I'm going to legit do mine's this way but I got a question tho. You didn't need any mold releasing agent like silicone spray? The epoxy comes off just like it did in the video?
Hey thanks for watching! Glad I could bring some value to you! When using tape or HDPE sheets, you do not need mold release (It pops right off the hdpe as soon as you cut the silicone line). If you use melamine, you MUST use a release agent. I personally hate using melamine. I've never had it come off cleanly. Something ALWAYS get stuck to it, primarily the sides. Then they break and cant be reused.
Also, if you use screws instead of pin nails, this style is more reusable.
if your pour was not right is the only time you might need to use spray release.{ from experience} it also sometimes creates little air pockets on a clear pour you can see them but you can always sand them out. I hope this helps
For melamine, mold release definitely helps, but honestly it still sucks
Perfect. Been looking for an alternative to the $200 silicone molds out there. I'm embarking on charcuterie and cutting boards with epoxy between live edge slabs, and I'm not quite ready to commit to big money to set this up until I do some. Question, can you RE-USE these molds? Why brads and not good screws? What resin do you use?
Thanks for watching! May I make a suggestion? Those silicone molds may be expensive, but you can put up “walls” inside and do multiple pieces at once.
Now, you can also do that with this type of form, just gotta get creative.
Just ensure that the surface you are using for all this is flat and level so you don’t need to flatten a bunch and waste material 🤙 best of luck!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks, man! Appreciate the feedback and suggestion!
Remember, don’t look at things as expensive when they are really investments. A silicone mold will outlast these diy ones, save you TONS of time (both in assembly, cleanup and repair), and can be used over and over again! 👊👊
@@ChrisHaggertyArt I hear you. If I look at the tools in my shop that way, I guess I need to look at molds the SAME way, huh? LOL! Have been looking at Crafted Elements, and they seem to be the leader in silicone molds that are reusable over and over and over. So, for ~200 you can get a mold that'll last forever (or so it seems with a little care). I'm VERY interested in the "wall" idea you mentioned... can yo elaborate? What resin do you use?
The resin I use depends entirely on the project at hand. For almost all my previous art videos, I used total boat high performance 2:1 with medium hardener.
However I rarely use that now due to the very high cost. I have grown fond of chill3d, and if I have a large volume pour, I will be turning to superclear deep pour
Can it be reused, or do you need a new one each time?
It can be reused, but use screws instead of nails. Also, you may need to repair the tape if done peels or tears. But this method is just to make a form in a pinch, not really a permanent solution.
Hi Chris
Could you tell me how thin epoxy resin can be without it warping (if you know that is). Thanks
it depends on the use. for a table, i'd recommend an inch at bare minimum. my tables are at least 1.5" thick. for wall art they can be thinner. however, make sure the form is flat and that the resin has cured for at least the recommended time in the instructions.
Will this method allow for multiple uses? It seems the form’s side pieces can be reused, but wanted to be sure. My vision is to do radiused/curved sides if possible. I was tempted to sacrifice this vision by getting an 18”x12” rectangle silicone mold for $140, but if I don’t have to that would be nice. I’m looking to do cutting boards similar to the epoxy river style.
Can’t seem to find a good video on diy silicone mold forms. I’m willing to do that too and have a 3D printer if that would help. I appreciate this video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
They can be reused, just use screws instead of pin nails, and you’ll probably need to repair places where the tape may rip.
The thicker the plywood you use, the more durable the form will be.
I don’t think 140 for a silicone mold is a bad deal, especially with the cost of wood right now. I use this tape and ply method when I already have these materials on hand.
The radius idea would definitely work, you can even use taped mdf or thinner ply to get the curvature for the sides.
The thick ply is for the base of the form to keep it stiff and flat.
I hope this answers your question!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Ah, okay, great! Thank you for the quick reply and details. I think I will get the mold while 20% off right now. Maybe even cutting the sides after the pour if not too much is wasted, idk, but thanks again.
Of course!!
Awesome share! Liked and subscribed!
Can us use a router or how do you make the edges rounded? I have a table that needs rounded edges and I’m lost. I already didn’t mix the resin correctly and have a half cured mess
Thank you!! Yes, once the piece is out of the form, knock down any edges/lips and trim to size/square it. Then a router can be used to do a roundover or chamfer! That's how I do my edge treatment. After that's is all done, then I finish the piece, usually with total boat tabletop epoxy 👍
Which epoxy did you use that didnt cure?
Thanks for sharing. These videos are very inspiring. I do have a question that I hope can be answered. I'll be pouring my first table top on a very large workbench I just built. I would like to make the epoxy table top removable so I could pour a new one once it wears out (or if I need to dis-assemble the table in the future). Could I cover the table in tinfoil or wax paper so the epoxy wont stick the the workbench when pouring, or is there a better method? The wood top that I'm pouring on is just regular OSB board, Thanks for any advice!
Im glad it helps! Thanks for watching! Ijust need a bit of clarification, is the workbench being poured on, or a separate table top?
If you are doing a flood coat on a table top, first put plastic sheeting over the workbench to keep the epoxy off of it, then elevate the tabletop you are pouring on with something underneath to keep it off the table directly.
Does that help?
@@ChrisHaggertyArt The workbench is about 8 feet long by 3 feet wide and mounted to a wall in a pole-barn. I'm hoping to pour directly on to it. Once it wears out in a few years, I'm hoping to be able to pull the epoxy top off and just pour a new one. I will be adding a dye in the epoxy mix, so I'm not too concerned about appearance under the epoxy. My biggest concern is making sure that the epoxy doesn't stick at all to the table top so it can be easily removed in the future. Thanks so much for the reply!
To be honest I’ve never heard of applying epoxy to be removed. I would imagine it wouldn’t stay and would probably break if it wasn’t adhered to something properly. What about making a separate top that you screw to the main top from underneath? So you can take it off and then make a new one?
Thanks.
Hi thks for your video. I'm thinking to do it on the stairs of my home but. I don't know if it will work. Step by step. An if it is strong enough. Pls would like your comments.
it can be done, and it has been done. i would make each stair individually, and then cut to size.
Thanks Chris!
Thanks for the support!!!
Hi, good day
Do you use any mold release agent on top of the tape? Or is it enough with just a tape on top of the wood?
Thanks, really appreciate your reply.
Just tape! If you use melamine you need to use mold release. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you for your reply, and I'm the one who should be thankful for watching your videos. Have a great day ahead Sir
I appreciate the kind words! I'll be putting out more helpful videos soon. Just been slacking 😅 enjoy the week!
I have an old card table that's resin how would I prepare the edges so that I could pour epoxy onto it
If it will be coating the top and the sides, you can put painters tape on the bottom right up the the edge so you can remove the drips that collect underneath. If it’s not supposed to be on the edges, you can put painters tape covering the sides right up to the top edge (and overhanging the bottom so drips don’t go on the bottom).
I’m either case, don’t wait for it to cure 100% before peeling the tape. Peel it when it is mostly cured but has a bit of flex - much easirr
Thanks to tips bro.. 😁
Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!
Awesome video and very detailed! Question..what do I look for in the store when it comes to pouring epoxy brand wise. And will I need other stuff like a hardener? I'm a beginner. Thanks again!
Thank you! And thanks for watching! There are a lot of types of epoxies for different applications and for different pour depths, etc. So it kind of depends. As a rule, the epoxies sold in stores like home depot etc are usually not amazing quality. They are good for just starting out, filling small pockets in carvings and signs etc.
When you buy epoxy resin, it comes with the appropriate hardener. They will be packaged together. Can you tell me more about your project so I can be of more help? And congrats on getting into epoxy!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt i just wanna do roughly a 15" x 40" box about maybe 1 1/2" to 2" height. Basically enough to put those led lights inside. I want to make an led box basically to put on my entire barbershop station counter.
Ok, so the box will act as the counter top, in a sense?
@@ChrisHaggertyArt yes the mold resin will. I would just put it on top of my work station
Ok, so are you submerging the LEDs in the resin AMD making one big heavy piece? And will it be solid resin, or wood and resin?
Can you reuse the sides or the form is one use?
Yes you just need to clean them up a bit and possibly repair the tape. But absolutely
Se agradece q compartas 👍👌
🙏🙏🙏
Thank you
Sorry just to clarify if I go to a hardware store what wood/mdmf am I asking for please? Also if nailing to hold together depending on the size on the mold I assume at each side a nail and two in the center would do it ?
Hey! I would recommend making the firm out of half inch or 3/4" plywood or mdf (the smoother, the easier the tape will stick to it, but it doesn't need to be the top grade or anything). And yeah you dont need to go crazy on nails or screws because the the silicone will help hold it together too. Just wait until the silicone is cured before putting things into the form.
I went back to using screws and being more mindful of the form to reuse it. But if you go that route, predrill the holes.
Hi Chris. Will this mould be useful for more than one table? Does it separate from the resin intact, without too much breakage! ?
Hey! As long as you are careful pulling it out of the mold, and you use screws instead of nails, it should be just fine for use again! When taking things out of the mold, use a smooth wedge and tap it under in the direction the tape is laid to minimize damaging the tape. Make sure to clean off old silicone and re-seal the edges with silicone the next time you put it together. If any of the tape rips, just patch the spot with more tape.
Packing tape is the least expensive but the least durable. Sheathing tape is the most expensive (by a lot) but the most durable.
For a more reusable form, I suggest HDPE. It is more expensive but is usable many times over. Thanks for watchign!!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt you're a star. Thanks loads.
🙏🙏🙏 thanks so much!!
Awesome !!!!
Haha thanks! Super short and sweet haha
Could you do this same concept but with card board instead of wood?
I di t see why not, the o ly issue you may run into is cupping. In this video I used 3/8" ply, and even that is too flimsy. When epoxy cures, it can shrink a bit which pulls the sides inward. My way to combat this is thicker plywood (3/4") clamping down the wood on either end (if applicable).
If you used cardboard, I would make absolutely sure that it is on a super flat surface when you pour to help minimize that possibility. As for the sides, I'm not sure how stable it would be. Epoxy is pretty heavy, so I would worry that if the sides of the form were made of cardboard, that it would burst of the pour were large enough.
If you use cardboard with success, please let me know! I'd love to hear your experience!
If I want to......could I make the form out of wood, but also never remove the finished piece form the form.....so basically what I am asking is can I just build the form for the frame and base of the table? If that makes any sense. I really want to make a table with some sand and shells, but I like the idea of having a wooden border and base to my table. Thought maybe if I reached out you could give me some advice. Thank you.
Absolutely. If you put down a permanent backer, and a frame, and put all the contents inside, you can absolutely do that. I'm about to make a couple pieces like that myself. If you want some beach piece advice, watch my massive beach art video. I'm also coming out with a more in depth beach piece video next!
What epoxy would be strong enough to for a 12x12 square a half inch thick that could be strong enough to hold a TV to a wall mount? Weird project I'm working on. Need it to hold about 70.
70 pounds that is
Not sure, to be honest. I know SuperClear has amazing epoxy, but you would need to contact the manufacturer about your unique application
Hi, thank you very much for this beautiful video. I have a wooden mold. I want to pour epoxy into this wood mold. But most likely, the epoxy will stick and I won't take it off. Can I easily remove it if I stick tape around the wooden mold like you and pour epoxy? My mold breaks in half, and the top and bottom are open. Do you recommend the band for this? Or is there another way you can suggest it?
Hey thanks so much! If you could send me a picture of the mold on instagram.com/chrishaggertyart so I can give you a more accurate opinion!
@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thank you so much. I send you now messages please check 🙏🏻🙂
Sounds good!
How long should you wait to pry the form off of the epoxy?
Wait until the resin is fully cured (that differs between products). If you take it out too soon, your project could warp.
@Chris Haggerty Art thank you. I did my first pour the other day, and I learned the hard way to NOT use wood as a mold. Luckily, I had some wiggle room on the sides and was able to cut with a table saw to remove the wood. Lesson learned!
@@richieadams6701 oh you definitely need to use tape over the wood. And always make it a bit larger than you need, then cut it to the perfect size
@@ChrisHaggertyArt last question. When I'm doing a flat piece, if I sand it, what is best to use to shine it up after?
I suggest polishing it. Matt’s Woodworks does an amazing job explaining the process:
th-cam.com/video/iPFQHDFuXNM/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUWbWF0dHMgd29vZHdvcmtzIHBvbGlzaA%3D%3D
th-cam.com/video/qOl47h9Nw2M/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUWbWF0dHMgd29vZHdvcmtzIHBvbGlzaA%3D%3D
Can you come open a workshop in Nigeria please, i will work for you and trust me this is very rare here and a lot of rich people will pay to have these
Haha I appreciate it!! I love where I live tho!
Naze, I'm from Nigeria too wish will could connect together
Awesome video, I just wanted to know if there's a mold release agent you used, or did you free pour straight into the mold as is?
Thank you! I poured straight into the mold. If you make a melamine form, you need to use mold release. If you use the tape method or hdpe sheets, you do need mold release. The epoxy releases from it relatively easily!
Cambridge Drive Inc lifesaver! Thank you
No problem!! Any other questions, feel free to ask! You can DM anytime on instagram.com/cambridgedriveinc
@@ChrisHaggertyArt This answer says you need mold release for both melanmine and tape. Is that correct? Or NO mold release for tape. What about using sarah wrap and taping the edges?
@@TheTenantPlacementGroup no mold release needed for tape. highly suggested for melamine forms.
all edges of a form should be sealed with silicone, because resin is a liquid and will leak out.
I've never used saran wrap, so i cant advise
Does the tape on the bottom of the plywood imprint into the resin? Is it not I only?
Is it noticible*?
It does imprint the bottom. They can be sanded out though. Or you can do a very thin flood coat of the bottom, and they will disappear 👍 I've started using HDPE for many of my forms, which as long as it's not scratched, etc, leaves a great finish and doesnt need tape, mold release, etc. 👍 but taking 120-150 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander takes care of the lines on the bottom in no time