The gamble here, is whether cleaning and a carb rebuild kit will fix the problem. As much as I prefer to rebuild an OEM one, I have had quite a few that no longer worked after rebuild. Those parts aren't usually something you can return, so you would be out those funds. Whereas an aftermarket carb, if it doesn't work or leaks, you can always return it. If it is not a carb style you see many of, I would vote for an aftermarket one. On a separate note, what is the heavy duty degreaser you are using? The ability of that to clear away so much grease and grime without any real agitation is incredible!
OEM diaphragms. I used an aftermarket carb kit by Oregon, and it was a disaster. First time I used an aftermarket carb kit, and that will be the last time.
I would get the OEM diaphragm kit. If i have the chance i always repair the factory parts because they are the best. Great example of this is car AC compressors.
Definitely an awesome saw!!! You know what I love about your channel? Is that you take the time to answer your subs questions. You have almost 70 thousand subscribers and you read and comment to all who comment. You even comment back on several year old videos. Half the TH-camrs don't even answer back when someone comments!! I don't know about the rest of your subscribers, but to me that mean more than anything. Thank you for everything you do to share your knowledge and tricks!! Hope you had an awesome Thanksgiving
oh yes, if it's an honest question, I'll do my best to offer an answer, if it's a statement, I'll read and thank you, I always appreciate your time Gary Allen, and the same to you.
Since you know it runs I would spend the money on a new carb. Husqvarna makes an excellent saw and I think it's worth it. That saw will run for many years to come.
I think the options I have on the 440 are a knockoff carb. I already priced an OEM carb and it was $140+ and the hi-speed jet is wrung off in the carb body trying to get it to lean down some. AND I don't want another carb that has a chance to act likie the same OEM job BUT it runs good enough for now. The son-in-law will end up with it so HE can delve into it if he wants. I do need to start it because it hasn't been run in maybe a year BUT has Tru-fuel in it so it ought to go after 10 pulls or so. No primer on this one. Happy day and Blessings!
I'm a cheap skate! I been using a Remington, 14", electric chainsaw for about 20 years. It's used about 4 times a year for everything from trimming to cutting down my emerald ash borer ash trees. So if I get another chain saw; I think it'll be another electric.
try to save the original diaphragm by putting it in brake fluid for a night or a bit more, that will make it a little softer again and if the chainsaw works fine just buy the diaphragms
My skills on these have improved over the last year, but carb problems are still a weakness. I would want to replace the carb, instead of rebuilding it, so I would look at Hipa and see if they have the carb to fit your “special” machine.
honnestly i got the same carb on a jonsored cs2240 and i bought a carb from amazon at like 20$ canadian and it works like the oem and its bean like 2 years ahah so take an after market carb
One thing I haven't tried but have thought about for difficult to obtain diaphragms is soaking them in a seal sweller, such as atp at-205 re seal. Considering the probably extremely low hours on that saw, if it were mine, I'd probably splurge for the oem carb if a reasonably priced rebuild kit wasn't available.
IT RUNS…… (next frame) Spray, spray, spray….Lol. Is it possible to ask the owner what he or she would like you to do? If they don’t use it a lot, they may have you order the rebuild kit. That would be my two cents considering the saw looks like new.
Working on a Husqvarna 240 saw and have done everything (cleaned carburetor, tune up, adjusted carburetor). However, it still runs and dies. Cheap Chinese carburetor on the way…
Now that I have a 450 rancher I kind of miss my 240. I’ve been cutting some trees down and the 450 fantastic for that but doing small work like limbing gets tiring. I would definitely front the money for original parts for customers tools, but talk to the owner if he’s alright with that. But if it were my chainsaw I would try to make it work with aftermarket parts.
I finally ordered a compression tester from one of your affiliate links. And nice job on the repair! I just got a Husqvarna 142 for $10 and it needs a lot of work lol.
I would go with the oe diaphragm kit. I have had good luck with them. Also your local small engine shop, or maybe even the dealer (if it is a servicing dealer) might be able to get a rotary, stens, or possibly oregon (if oregon makes them) aftermarket kit. They all seem to be of good quality.
... also soaking the diaphragm in alkylate gasoline for 2 strokes can often times revive them. I leave them in the cap from an aerosol can over night and they'll often times come back to working conditions.
I wouldn’t waste anytime and order the rebuild kit. This saw is very good and isn’t cheap to buy. Once it’s fixed it’ll last a long time, providing the owner drains the fluids before storing it.
Hey bro what's up? I like how this video is short but still filled with information. I'm thinking to replace the carburetor and done but as you said it is a special carburetor so I guess my choice would be to get the rebuild kit and call that George bro.
I appreciate it, some people want long drawn out videos, filled with information but the time to make one, would be extremely long, thanks for understanding.
Did you have that solution laying around? I haven't seen you try to rejuvenate the pumping diaphragm in a while. Also AT 205 is really good as well. You only need a little bit to soak the rubber parts in.
I always give my customers the choice and let them know the pro's and con's but then i do this for a living but seeing as it is a new saw and hardly been used i would go oem diaphragm's.
I don't think this has been brought up before: The small plastic bung on fuel return lines in most 2 strokes. Is it there just to retain the line or regulate fuel flow?
if that was my own personal Chainsaw i,d start off with a rebuild kit for starters and if it works that,s awesome and if not then Plan B would be then next best thing to cure the problem for good which is replacing the carburetor aka carby.
I'd say go for a diafragm kit. However, it seems every diafragm uses the same material so it's entirely possible that you might be able to buy a roll of the stuff and cut out a new one. However, I could be overlooking something. I'd go for the cheapest option. If the knockoff rebuild kit is cheapest to purchase, get that. If the 25 dollar diafragms are cheapest, get those. It all depends on who's selling what.
I'd stick to authentic rebuild kit as well. It's still cheaper than full original carb, but if you're using your chainsaw (or any piece of anything) reasonable amount of time, I wouldn't rely on knock-off parts in any way, shape or form and avoid them at any cost. I mean, it's cheaper to get good parts or even full carb then having your 200-300$+ chainsaw catch fire.
Hey bro, I just bought a gallon of that harbor freight super heavy duty degreaser. I mixed it to 20:1 and gave it a try on my stihl 021 and the stuff is so weak that the old degreaser that I used is stronger. Do you mix it at a heavier ratio or do you use the other degreaser that they sell?
as ive seen in your videos. OEM is the best choice. Aftermarker "3rd party" are questionable and in some cases outright wrong. Id get an oem carb kit. you said prices on the diaphrams. I doubt a few gaskets add that much to your 25 dollar investment. 😅 plus ive seen enough content from folks like mustie1 to know carb kits that are from questionable sources can also be wrong. sometimes...so oem for sure. If it were mine. not a "customers" then all bets are off. id get whatever is cheapest 🤣
Buy a cheap carb and just modify it. Chances are by the time the next owner needs to work on it the saw parts will be obsolete and the model of the saw will be long discontinued to even notice it’s got an aftermarket carb on it
Don't apologize for cleaning a machine before working on it. It's a sign of good workmanship.
I appreciate that .
Daddy always said integrity is seen a multitude of ways! It’s Worth it to clean but also is personification of you in your work!!
thank you Timer and Tools your channel is nice too.
Whatever the customer wants.
you sir, are absolutely right. Thanks!
The gamble here, is whether cleaning and a carb rebuild kit will fix the problem. As much as I prefer to rebuild an OEM one, I have had quite a few that no longer worked after rebuild. Those parts aren't usually something you can return, so you would be out those funds. Whereas an aftermarket carb, if it doesn't work or leaks, you can always return it. If it is not a carb style you see many of, I would vote for an aftermarket one.
On a separate note, what is the heavy duty degreaser you are using? The ability of that to clear away so much grease and grime without any real agitation is incredible!
you make a great point.
I would usually get the OEM diaphragm kit. Sometimes i've had good luck with the aftermarket diaphragm kits and sometimes they don't work so good
thank you James Hedrick, OEM is typically the best choice.
OEM diaphragms. I used an aftermarket carb kit by Oregon, and it was a disaster. First time I used an aftermarket carb kit, and that will be the last time.
I can understand why
Great video! It might be worthwhile to pick up a small ultrasonic cleaner, so you can clean carburetors and other small parts.
you might be right.
I would replace the carb. Have had much success with the Hipa brand. It's $18.75 from their website. Similar prices on eBay and Amazon.
thank you Fran Leck.
I'd put an OEM kit in the carb.
thank you Christopher Marshall
I would get the OEM diaphragm kit. If i have the chance i always repair the factory parts because they are the best. Great example of this is car AC compressors.
makes sense
I love your videos I watch all of them
thank you I appreciate that. thanks for understanding the 2 part videos, production time is just too much for long videos.
Definitely an awesome saw!!! You know what I love about your channel? Is that you take the time to answer your subs questions. You have almost 70 thousand subscribers and you read and comment to all who comment. You even comment back on several year old videos. Half the TH-camrs don't even answer back when someone comments!! I don't know about the rest of your subscribers, but to me that mean more than anything. Thank you for everything you do to share your knowledge and tricks!! Hope you had an awesome Thanksgiving
oh yes, if it's an honest question, I'll do my best to offer an answer, if it's a statement, I'll read and thank you, I always appreciate your time Gary Allen, and the same to you.
I would get the OEM repair kit. Second I would buy an aftermarket HIPA carb. I have had very good luck using the HIPA brand. Thanks for the video.
thank you Waterman one.
Since you know it runs I would spend the money on a new carb. Husqvarna makes an excellent saw and I think it's worth it. That saw will run for many years to come.
makes sense
I would go for the aftermarket and steal the diaphragm and gaskets from it to use on the original carb if they fit
I think the options I have on the 440 are a knockoff carb. I already priced an OEM carb and it was $140+ and the hi-speed jet is wrung off in the carb body trying to get it to lean down some. AND I don't want another carb that has a chance to act likie the same OEM job BUT it runs good enough for now. The son-in-law will end up with it so HE can delve into it if he wants. I do need to start it because it hasn't been run in maybe a year BUT has Tru-fuel in it so it ought to go after 10 pulls or so. No primer on this one. Happy day and Blessings!
thank you Lewie McNeely
@@HomeGaragechannel U 2! I wouldn'
t be here if it wasn't 4 U!
Make your own diaphram!
lol you're on the right track.
I'm a cheap skate! I been using a Remington, 14", electric chainsaw for about 20 years. It's used about 4 times a year for everything from trimming to cutting down my emerald ash borer ash trees. So if I get another chain saw; I think it'll be another electric.
nice, it's served you well.
try to save the original diaphragm by putting it in brake fluid for a night or a bit more, that will make it a little softer again and if the chainsaw works fine just buy the diaphragms
already done
I would go with the knock off carb they work the same
thank you Hagen Nowland.
My skills on these have improved over the last year, but carb problems are still a weakness. I would want to replace the carb, instead of rebuilding it, so I would look at Hipa and see if they have the carb to fit your “special” machine.
I hear you, nothing wrong with that.
honnestly i got the same carb on a jonsored cs2240 and i bought a carb from amazon at like 20$ canadian and it works like the oem and its bean like 2 years ahah so take an after market carb
nice I appreciate that .
I would definitely go with the aftermarket carb.
thank you Brian King.
Good day Boy I missed this video. 25.00 with oem kit. Thanks
thank you Don Voll!
One thing I haven't tried but have thought about for difficult to obtain diaphragms is soaking them in a seal sweller, such as atp at-205 re seal. Considering the probably extremely low hours on that saw, if it were mine, I'd probably splurge for the oem carb if a reasonably priced rebuild kit wasn't available.
thank you Aaron Powell.
IT RUNS…… (next frame) Spray, spray, spray….Lol. Is it possible to ask the owner what he or she would like you to do? If they don’t use it a lot, they may have you order the rebuild kit. That would be my two cents considering the saw looks like new.
I got a trimmer with a odd recoil and the new part was more than what I paid so I used a welder
really which trimmer was that?
@@HomeGaragechannel it was a troy bilt 4 stroke
Working on a Husqvarna 240 saw and have done everything (cleaned carburetor, tune up, adjusted carburetor). However, it still runs and dies. Cheap Chinese carburetor on the way…
yes sir, tell me how it goes
Now that I have a 450 rancher I kind of miss my 240. I’ve been cutting some trees down and the 450 fantastic for that but doing small work like limbing gets tiring. I would definitely front the money for original parts for customers tools, but talk to the owner if he’s alright with that. But if it were my chainsaw I would try to make it work with aftermarket parts.
I completely understand why.
I finally ordered a compression tester from one of your affiliate links. And nice job on the repair! I just got a Husqvarna 142 for $10 and it needs a lot of work lol.
wow nice, I appreciate it and good luck with it
Thank you!
no problem
Aftermarket carb is the way I'd go
thank you big mess test 230
I would go with the oe diaphragm kit. I have had good luck with them. Also your local small engine shop, or maybe even the dealer (if it is a servicing dealer) might be able to get a rotary, stens, or possibly oregon (if oregon makes them) aftermarket kit. They all seem to be of good quality.
yes the OE kits, seem to be a better material.
I often just wet the air filter with fuel to check if they'll kick
... also soaking the diaphragm in alkylate gasoline for 2 strokes can often times revive them. I leave them in the cap from an aerosol can over night and they'll often times come back to working conditions.
oh.. that's a good idea, I'll have to remember that trick.
nice tip
@@HomeGaragechannel also works wonders if you can't peel a gasket without ripping it.
I wouldn’t waste anytime and order the rebuild kit. This saw is very good and isn’t cheap to buy. Once it’s fixed it’ll last a long time, providing the owner drains the fluids before storing it.
makes great sense thank you William Snow.
I usually ask my customers, commercial guys get oem parts home owners usually get after market
yes that's a good idea.
Hey bro what's up? I like how this video is short but still filled with information. I'm thinking to replace the carburetor and done but as you said it is a special carburetor so I guess my choice would be to get the rebuild kit and call that George bro.
I appreciate it, some people want long drawn out videos, filled with information but the time to make one, would be extremely long, thanks for understanding.
@@HomeGaragechannel you're welcome bro👍👍💯💯%
Did you have that solution laying around? I haven't seen you try to rejuvenate the pumping diaphragm in a while. Also AT 205 is really good as well. You only need a little bit to soak the rubber parts in.
it's always ready, And only use it, as last ditch solution, to find out IF the machine works, before committing to it.
I always give my customers the choice and let them know the pro's and con's but then i do this for a living but seeing as it is a new saw and hardly been used i would go oem diaphragm's.
that makes sense
I don't think this has been brought up before: The small plastic bung on fuel return lines in most 2 strokes. Is it there just to retain the line or regulate fuel flow?
no it's to keep the line from coming out.
I would get a rebuild kit for it 👍🙏👍🙏
makes sense thank you RayFpv.
if that was my own personal Chainsaw i,d start off with a rebuild kit for starters and if it works that,s awesome and if not then Plan B would be then next best thing to cure the problem for good which is replacing the carburetor aka carby.
makes sense thank you Patrick Stapleton.
nice
Thanks
I'd say go for a diafragm kit. However, it seems every diafragm uses the same material so it's entirely possible that you might be able to buy a roll of the stuff and cut out a new one. However, I could be overlooking something. I'd go for the cheapest option. If the knockoff rebuild kit is cheapest to purchase, get that. If the 25 dollar diafragms are cheapest, get those. It all depends on who's selling what.
don't forget there's metal wheel in the middle of the diaphragm too which means replacing it would be extremely tough.
I'd probably go with the OEM diaphragm kit or you could try using your rejuvenation liquid.
the fluid, has a slim margin for success unfortunately.
@@HomeGaragechannel The success rate being low is a bummer. Best case scenario is seems to be the new diaphragm kit.
I think so too, I only use the fluid as a last resort.
I'd stick to authentic rebuild kit as well. It's still cheaper than full original carb, but if you're using your chainsaw (or any piece of anything) reasonable amount of time, I wouldn't rely on knock-off parts in any way, shape or form and avoid them at any cost.
I mean, it's cheaper to get good parts or even full carb then having your 200-300$+ chainsaw catch fire.
thank you
Chainsaw? More like Painsaw!
That is a hard decision to make on which way to fix it
I know right.
Hey bro, I just bought a gallon of that harbor freight super heavy duty degreaser. I mixed it to 20:1 and gave it a try on my stihl 021 and the stuff is so weak that the old degreaser that I used is stronger. Do you mix it at a heavier ratio or do you use the other degreaser that they sell?
I apologize but I don't mix it, I use it straight
Oh... That explains why it's so weak lol. Thanks!
For one, if the owner wants the saw back, they need to pay for the parts that you want to get to make it easier on yourself. Have good days!
thank you Buddy Reed.
I hate working on Husqvarna for that exact reason. You have to take the whole thing apart just to get to one dumb thing
I know right, thank you for the comment
I got a mower but with no manual and I went online but can not find what oil it uses what would you do
can you tell me the model and serial number from the label on the Deck? I'll look It up for you.
The model is a fppm35
it says 0.6 liters of SAE 30
Would 10w 30 do
Or 5w 30
Good morning brother. I lost your email when I switched phones. Can you DM me with that again somehow? I have some info for you.
sure
homegaragemail@gmail.com
The only place that a Husqvarna chainsaw belongs is in the garbage. Because as we all know, STIHL RUNS THE YARD. 😊👍🏿 #stihlpower
thank you Patrick Poulard
as ive seen in your videos. OEM is the best choice. Aftermarker "3rd party" are questionable and in some cases outright wrong. Id get an oem carb kit. you said prices on the diaphrams. I doubt a few gaskets add that much to your 25 dollar investment. 😅 plus ive seen enough content from folks like mustie1 to know carb kits that are from questionable sources can also be wrong. sometimes...so oem for sure. If it were mine. not a "customers" then all bets are off. id get whatever is cheapest 🤣
you are correct.
@@HomeGaragechannel i look forward to more content. you do excellent very "professional" type content.
I appreciate that
I'm getting the carb kit , um never oem those crooks er um thieves um well high priced parts ! Cheap carb not for a Husqvarna I'll go the extra yard 🤷
nice choice
Get a knock off carb but the choice is yours.
that's a great idea. thank you Mike Jones.
Buy a cheap carb and just modify it. Chances are by the time the next owner needs to work on it the saw parts will be obsolete and the model of the saw will be long discontinued to even notice it’s got an aftermarket carb on it
you make a good point.
Ask the owner what he wants to do and he buys the parts or the kit.
you got it, thank you Richard Taylor
How do I sharpen or place the chain on my chainsaw??👋👋👋👋👍👍👍👍👍👍👋📱📱📱😁😁😁👍👍👨💻👨💻👨💻👨💻👨💻👨💻👱♀️👱♀️👱♀️😻😻😻🙋♀️🙋♀️🙋♀️
I would look up the owners manual, that will tell you have to change the chain on your particular saw.
cheap carb or oem diaphragm. 2choices instead of 3. hate paying for a new oem carb.
I know right!
Why would they design in a way that would require that much work to do basic maintenance on it? That is so annoying.
I know but I think they were hoping that you'd take it to the shop instead.