Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I need to do the same thing to my skiff. I’m very hesitant to drill so far into the hull - not wanting to punch through the bottom or top. Glad it worked for you!
Always a good idea to chamfer the edges of any holes you drill through the gel coat. Not only will it prevent the gel coat from spider cracking but it also makes a little void for the 5200 to sit in which will form like a little gasket. Also its never a good idea to use an impact when installing screws into fiberglass as its almost a guarantee that you will overtighten them. Should always do them by hand with a screwdriver and stop as soon it gets tight.
I agree.. when ever you expose open wood it’s good to seal it back up with resin..nice job though. Did something similar on my bayliner..it’s amazing the amount of water that comes out..
yeah the encapsulation thing is just a pipe dream. One always should have a bilge drain and bilge deck plates to ventilate. Even if you dont perforate the deck all the way through....the expansion and contraction of the sealed chamber will crack the glass in places and let small leaks in.
Is the boat in brackish or salt water? Stainless steel screws on a brass garboard will cause galvanic corrosion when immersed in salt water, which will corrode your drain.
Here’s an idea. We all understand why a boats foam core should always stay dry, which is the same principle as a fiberglass surfboard. Years ago, my son had a used Lost Surfboard were you actually pumped in air through a recessed valve which pressurized the whole board for controlled riding stiffness. So I gave it a try and watched the pressure gauge leak down to zero very quickly. The surfboard didn’t have any open holes or cracks, so I shot some more air pressure in and sprayed some soap and water(like finding leaks on a tire) all around the board which produced several leaks from the various cracks. I made the appropriate repairs with no further leaks. I plan on trying this method on my son’s new/used 1968 Boston Whaler 13 and see what show up.
That's a brilliant idea. Getting the water out is a daring task on this 21 DLX , actually identifying the source of intrusion is priceless. Thanks for posting.
Capt. MacGyver you got my thumbs up. Thanks for doing something many of us would not attempt. The threaded brass fittings are a brilliant idea for future inquiry. I wonder if any attempt setting up a blower of sorts ( from a ducted fan to maybe hair dryer) to provide air flow over an extended period of time during off season may do some "drying" of the saturated foam. I also wondered about using some kind of low temp heat pads to help vaporize the water. Excellent video, I'm definitely doing this to my 21 DLX.
I did mine the same way I got close to 5 gallons by letting it sit overnight then in the front floor I drilled and sealed air compressor hose I’ve been in the back I sealed the vacuum and I got another 12 gallons and four hours out
It will dry out you just gotta get air flow to and around it which isn't so easy in a lot of cases. If you can warm the air some thats even better. I had some water logged foam in my little center console and i was able to dry it pretty much all the way out. Had to open a couple round inspection plates and pumped warm air in one hole and it exhausted out the other. Took a few days but it was pretty much bone dry after I got done.
Economy polyester resins used in some boats are not impermeable to water. They absorb water from the bottom and top surfaces, particularly if the boat is left in the water or if the boat is outside and gets wet with rain. If you attempt to remove the water from the saturated foam the problem will continue unless you make the hull waterproof. Epoxy based bottom paint and epoxy topside paint will help seal the surfaces. Best bet is to buy a hull made with isophthalic polyester resin which is more waterproof than the cheaper orthophthalic polyester resin. You get what you pay for.
3:44 Yeah, a hole saw would have been far more effective. 4:58 No water! A good sign! 7:12 Yep, ugh, oh! But it looks clear, not old and stinky. 9:42 Yikes! But I think all the vacuum and air pressure stuff was unnecessary. Just providing a drain is sufficient, imo. Good call on the stainless screws!
I am currently building a homemade 15ft skiff...I arranged stringers to drain with NO foam...foam will be top side for a level buoyancy without water retention.. also keeps the boat upright when it sinks instead of it capsizing.. wish I knew why manufacturers put the flotation below the waterline... that's almost a given the boat will capsize
Is this an issue I'd have to worry about on say a 2018 Carolina skiff 16 JVX? Never owned a skiff before and just want to be fully informed. Thanks in advance!
I would like to do the same for my Carolina skiff, but I fear hitting the bottom of the boat while drilling and causing more damage. Where did you get the extension from?
I used a couple of these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W9SIYQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 plus a shorter one I got from a local hardware store. I was worried about hitting the bottom too but I just took my time and the bit seemed to ride just on top of the bottom. I don't think the bit could make that sharp of a turn to damage the bottom.
Carolina Skiffs trap water between their bulkheads and foam gets waterlogged with nowhere for drainage. Cut floor out and install longitudinal stringers with a bilge box.
According to people I know, it is a problem with all Carolina Skiffs built back then. They were built like a surfboard but as soon as we start screwing into the floor to mount t-tops, consoles, casting platforms, leaning posts, there are tons of little places for infiltration and no way for it to get out.
Sadly the only way to fix saturated foam is to cut the floor out. Water won't drain out of it. I have tilted a boat up, drilled a few 3" holes in out of the way spots in floor and forced air through for days on end with no good results. Dig that foam out and be done with it.
The best way I have found to dry the foam out is if you can get some good air flow around it and heat the air some not hot hot but warm enough to help dry everything out. May never get 100% bone dry but it will remove most of the moisture. Those bags or canisters that draw moisture out of the air will help to. Whats key and usually the hardest part is figuring out how the water got in there to begin with and resolve that issue or else your just pissin into the wind.
I always get a kick out of people using an impact to drill holes. I guess people think just because it's a quick change bit that it supposed to be used in an impact.
I guess all the people in this thread are as dumb as me. - www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/138776-drilling-screwing-into-fiberglass.html. Maybe you could make a video showing us all to screw in to fiberglass without predrilling? Can't wait....
@@MikeRose1 you quite literally went on Google and copied the first link you came too on a forum🤣 I base my facts off experience, after installing 20-30 outboards on fiberglass/aluminum boats
Hey whats the name of those brass drain plugs? And where can I find them? ...i have a 95 218...and im just gonna cut out the floor between the FG ribs and strip out the foam and reform and reglass the floor...but wanna install those brass drain plugs
I wasn't sure if there was any water in the hull, but I figured there was a good chance that there was, and if so, I wanted to get as much water out as possible.
For the most part I would say yes. I opened the drains after last summer and only a couple of drops came out. I guess it's still possible for water to get into the hull somehow, but at least now there's a way for it to get out.
@@jerrygreen1277 I drilled through all the ribs from back to just in front of the console. Since there aren't any screw holes forward of the console, I think it was able to get most of the water. I am sure it's not as good as ripping up the whole floor, but better than doing nothing.
I have a 2020 2180 DLX and it came with the drains installed, I believe they are factory installed, but can't swear to it. I take the plugs out after every trip and so far no water, and hoping it stays that way. I really like CS boats, but the water in hull had always been a concern I had about buying one. After talking with people that had newer CS boats and they hadn't had an issue with water below the floor, I decided to buy the new 2180 DLX. Seeing the drains already installed was somewhat comforting, but only time will tell. It's been right at a year, and no water has come out the drains, so I'm still a happy owner.
It worked out just fine...I am sure there was still some waterlogged foam, as it would have taken forever to dry completely, but I definitely feel like it was an improvement.
It definitely planes a little quicker. You might try a new propeller. The pitch and number of blades have a big effect. I went to 17 from 19 pitch with 4 blades and it made a big difference.
You shouldn't have drilled the screws holes for the female side of the plug. The 5200 is enough to hold it. Now you're just creating more ways for water to get inside lol.
Maybe so, but I couldn't know until I did it and the drains I put in are on every other type of boat so I felt good about them not leaking. Thanks for watching!
I was originally going to use the SeaSense Drain- One -Way Safety Plug but then opted for the SeaSense Unified Marine 50032282 Drain Plug Garboard, Brass. But I mixed parts from the two...I actually like the screw in plug from the first one, but opted for the simpler drain to make sure it wouldn't get clogged.
@@MikeRose1 i used a 6 foot long electricians drill bit then added a 6 foot extension, went thru the baffles until i had reached past the front of the console, mine is a 16 foot dlx i got water draining for a week easily in excess of 100 gallons
@@MikeRose1 after i did mine it ran so much better, then i kept it in my lake for about 8 months, just pulled it out and had about 3 gallons in it so not bad!!!!!
I would agree that it should be that way, but you can search the internet and find that this is a very common problem. I actually became aware of this from a local boat builder who has seen this many, many times. Good luck though and I hope yours stays dry!
@@MikeRose1 i've seen a few videos of carolina skiff with water in the hull , i'm concerned about my j 16 now but all i have is front deck and bench seat in the back for tiller arm motor and a storage seat in the middle and those screws are inside box , do you think i should be concerned ? i almost wish i would've gotten an aluminum boat now
@@camhester4251 I wouldn’t worry about it too much but I do have a peace of mind knowing I was able to get rid of the majority of the water. Especially with winter coming on, I am going to leave the new plugs out for a couple of months and not worry about water in the hull freezing and expanding and popping my fiberglass or gel coat.
@@camhester4251 I've got a J16. It's full of water. Mines been water logged so long I'm going to have to rip the floor up and refoam it. TBH the foam they use in these boats never dries out completely.
Thank you for taking the time to record this and share it. I have an 88 Bass Boat that I just discovered has water-logged foam on the sides similar to yours. I imagine I will be doing this in the near future to drain those sections of the hull also. Now that it has been a couple years, is there anything you would do differently or advice that you could provide for someone like myself that is about to take on the same task?
You could place that boat in the middle of Hell and it wouldn't dry out. ONLY ONLY ONLY way to dry out a wet boat or wet foam is to open it up and remove the damage. To clarify this.. I just cut a stringer out of a 69 mako that I have had the floor out for 5 years and the stringer was still wet with the 600 lbs of wet foam removed 5 years ago. I left the water melon like foam in a trailer covered in NC for the Summer and decided to check it months later,., Well it was still like a juicy water melon. I do give you an A+ for effort,. but Your headway did not match your efforts. These old boats rot like this because the water CAN NOT be extracted except by a total renovation. and most just won't do that. Even putting the boat in a Kiln will not pull that trapped water out of the foam,. And any state that has freezing weather just breaks more closed cells and the Cancer grows until you STOP it. I'm not going to put a percentage out but about all boats that sit out more than 1-2 years has water damage, add 15-20 years to that and you can probably do your own math as to how many boats are water logged to some degree. if not severely,.. The few boats kept under cover are the only survivors. I have tore 2 boats down, my neighbor had a NC Skiff, and after helping me on mine, when he got water from screws holding his transducer at transom,.,. he got rid of his boat. Cheers everyone.
yep...I agree with you..I was really just confirming my fears that the hull had water in it...there is no way to get all that water out without tearing it apart, but the boat wasn't worth it for me to consider that. Thanks for watching!
@@MikeRose1 this is correct, the transom is made of high density foam… still same concept, only suppose to drill through the gellcoat and then let the screw grab the material and bite vs a wallowed out hole
@@TheSteelerfool The hole wasn't wallowed out, It was slightly smaler than the screw allowing for the screw to grab tight. Rest assured, after a year, the screws are still tight. Thanks though.
that is not a good move. you have to look up specs. you might have exposed wood now? only get worse now. you cant fill those holes in the transom like it was! deck inspection plates would have been a better solution on the cheap! or cut the floor out get rid of the foam. put a pad on the bottom. put new floor in. [ lots of options. ] go faster for free! . self drain too!
![Cutting Out The Deck! Carolina Skiff Rebuild [Water In Foam Part 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tr1VxOTk91U/mqdefault.jpg)
If it has foam in it, it will never dry. Got a 20ft.TwinVee had to cut floor out remove wet foam. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.
I need to do the same thing to my skiff.
I’m very hesitant to drill so far into the hull - not wanting to punch through the bottom or top.
Glad it worked for you!
I was concerned about that too but I just let the bit do it’s thing without forcing it and all went well.
Always a good idea to chamfer the edges of any holes you drill through the gel coat. Not only will it prevent the gel coat from spider cracking but it also makes a little void for the 5200 to sit in which will form like a little gasket. Also its never a good idea to use an impact when installing screws into fiberglass as its almost a guarantee that you will overtighten them. Should always do them by hand with a screwdriver and stop as soon it gets tight.
I agree.. when ever you expose open wood it’s good to seal it back up with resin..nice job though. Did something similar on my bayliner..it’s amazing the amount of water that comes out..
I have a 2004 TwinVee... same issue in my sponsons,Thanks for video.
yeah the encapsulation thing is just a pipe dream. One always should have a bilge drain and bilge deck plates to ventilate. Even if you dont perforate the deck all the way through....the expansion and contraction of the sealed chamber will crack the glass in places and let small leaks in.
Is the boat in brackish or salt water? Stainless steel screws on a brass garboard will cause galvanic corrosion when immersed in salt water, which will corrode your drain.
Here’s an idea. We all understand why a boats foam core should always stay dry, which is the same principle as a fiberglass surfboard. Years ago, my son had a used Lost Surfboard were you actually pumped in air through a recessed valve which pressurized the whole board for controlled riding stiffness. So I gave it a try and watched the pressure gauge leak down to zero very quickly. The surfboard didn’t have any open holes or cracks, so I shot some more air pressure in and sprayed some soap and water(like finding leaks on a tire) all around the board which produced several leaks from the various cracks. I made the appropriate repairs with no further leaks. I plan on trying this method on my son’s new/used 1968 Boston Whaler 13 and see what show up.
That's a brilliant idea. Getting the water out is a daring task on this 21 DLX , actually identifying the source of intrusion is priceless.
Thanks for posting.
Phenomenal job brother 💯 Thanks for posting this!
Capt. MacGyver you got my thumbs up. Thanks for doing something many of us would not attempt.
The threaded brass fittings are a brilliant idea for future inquiry.
I wonder if any attempt setting up a blower of sorts ( from a ducted fan to maybe hair dryer) to provide air flow over an extended period of time during off season may do some "drying" of the saturated foam.
I also wondered about using some kind of low temp heat pads to help vaporize the water.
Excellent video, I'm definitely doing this to my 21 DLX.
I did mine the same way I got close to 5 gallons by letting it sit overnight then in the front floor I drilled and sealed air compressor hose I’ve been in the back I sealed the vacuum and I got another 12 gallons and four hours out
Water soaked foam is like a wet log. It will never dry out. I've removed foam from many pontoon tanks and they are like anvils.
It will dry out you just gotta get air flow to and around it which isn't so easy in a lot of cases. If you can warm the air some thats even better. I had some water logged foam in my little center console and i was able to dry it pretty much all the way out. Had to open a couple round inspection plates and pumped warm air in one hole and it exhausted out the other. Took a few days but it was pretty much bone dry after I got done.
Economy polyester resins used in some boats are not impermeable to water. They absorb water from the bottom and top surfaces, particularly if the boat is left in the water or if the boat is outside and gets wet with rain. If you attempt to remove the water from the saturated foam the
problem will continue unless you make the hull waterproof. Epoxy based bottom paint and epoxy topside paint will help seal the surfaces. Best bet is to buy a hull made with isophthalic
polyester resin which is more waterproof than the cheaper orthophthalic polyester resin.
You get what you pay for.
3:44 Yeah, a hole saw would have been far more effective. 4:58 No water! A good sign! 7:12 Yep, ugh, oh! But it looks clear, not old and stinky. 9:42 Yikes! But I think all the vacuum and air pressure stuff was unnecessary. Just providing a drain is sufficient, imo. Good call on the stainless screws!
He said it was some smelly water.
Great job. Looks like straight from the factory.
Thanks
I am currently building a homemade 15ft skiff...I arranged stringers to drain with NO foam...foam will be top side for a level buoyancy without water retention.. also keeps the boat upright when it sinks instead of it capsizing.. wish I knew why manufacturers put the flotation below the waterline... that's almost a given the boat will capsize
Is this an issue I'd have to worry about on say a 2018 Carolina skiff 16 JVX? Never owned a skiff before and just want to be fully informed.
Thanks in advance!
I can't say for sure on that model, but if there are no garboard drain plugs factory installed, I would say it's a real possibility.
@@MikeRose1 thank you!
I would like to do the same for my Carolina skiff, but I fear hitting the bottom of the boat while drilling and causing more damage. Where did you get the extension from?
I used a couple of these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W9SIYQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 plus a shorter one I got from a local hardware store. I was worried about hitting the bottom too but I just took my time and the bit seemed to ride just on top of the bottom. I don't think the bit could make that sharp of a turn to damage the bottom.
Did you put anything on the plug threads to keep them in and watertight?
I didn't...the plugs are meant to be taken our regularly and if they are tight, no water should get through.
Couldn’t you bag the top half of the boat an run a dehumidifier draining through one of the deck drains?
Carolina Skiffs trap water between their bulkheads and foam gets waterlogged with nowhere for drainage. Cut floor out and install longitudinal stringers with a bilge box.
How did that water get in there brother? Mine needs some fiber glass work under the skids I’m hoping it isn’t waterlogged
According to people I know, it is a problem with all Carolina Skiffs built back then. They were built like a surfboard but as soon as we start screwing into the floor to mount t-tops, consoles, casting platforms, leaning posts, there are tons of little places for infiltration and no way for it to get out.
Nice job , pretty creative tools you made there .
Sadly the only way to fix saturated foam is to cut the floor out. Water won't drain out of it. I have tilted a boat up, drilled a few 3" holes in out of the way spots in floor and forced air through for days on end with no good results. Dig that foam out and be done with it.
The best way I have found to dry the foam out is if you can get some good air flow around it and heat the air some not hot hot but warm enough to help dry everything out. May never get 100% bone dry but it will remove most of the moisture. Those bags or canisters that draw moisture out of the air will help to. Whats key and usually the hardest part is figuring out how the water got in there to begin with and resolve that issue or else your just pissin into the wind.
@@johnnorris1227 You think this PVC with holes drilled would work if combined with an old hairdryer?
The reason it took so long for you to drill through the haul was you had the bit on a impact drill lol should have switched drills bro
I always get a kick out of people using an impact to drill holes. I guess people think just because it's a quick change bit that it supposed to be used in an impact.
Can ya blame him, he drilled a hole for a screw as well🤣
I guess all the people in this thread are as dumb as me. - www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/138776-drilling-screwing-into-fiberglass.html. Maybe you could make a video showing us all to screw in to fiberglass without predrilling? Can't wait....
@@MikeRose1 you quite literally went on Google and copied the first link you came too on a forum🤣 I base my facts off experience, after installing 20-30 outboards on fiberglass/aluminum boats
@@TheSteelerfool you're right...that's how easy it was to find. It would have been impossible to put these screws in without predrilling. 🤣
Hey whats the name of those brass drain plugs? And where can I find them?
...i have a 95 218...and im just gonna cut out the floor between the FG ribs and strip out the foam and reform and reglass the floor...but wanna install those brass drain plugs
SeaSense Unified Marine 50032282 Drain Plug Garboard, Brass a.co/d/20qKksi
@@MikeRose1 Hey Thanks a Million!! Just ordered them...thanks for the video!
I’m looking at buying a j16, if there is nothing drilled then is it impossible for there to be water in the hull?
I would think if the floor has not been drilled at all, it would be unlikely.
An impact driver is not a drill = why it was clutching out on you vs consistently drilling through.
Were u just trying to get the water out or is the water absorbing in the bottom of the boat
I wasn't sure if there was any water in the hull, but I figured there was a good chance that there was, and if so, I wanted to get as much water out as possible.
Its Always Good to use the "Fastest speed bore EVER"😅
How do you determine where to put the hole?
I just estimated the thickness of the bottom and tried to stay just above that and I guess there might have been a little luck involved.
So it’s been a while since you posted the video..would you say this fixed the issue?
For the most part I would say yes. I opened the drains after last summer and only a couple of drops came out. I guess it's still possible for water to get into the hull somehow, but at least now there's a way for it to get out.
I watched a guy take the whole floor off. There are ribs going across, so looks like you only drained the last compartment of foam.
th-cam.com/video/tr1VxOTk91U/w-d-xo.html
@@jerrygreen1277 I drilled through all the ribs from back to just in front of the console. Since there aren't any screw holes forward of the console, I think it was able to get most of the water. I am sure it's not as good as ripping up the whole floor, but better than doing nothing.
I've been on the fence about buying a new 2020 21 LS, but the water logging issues have me concerned.
I think the new ones have drains already installed but I would definitely check to make sure.
Take a 5 gallon bucket to showroom see if it fits in molded bucket holder.
I have a 2020 2180 DLX and it came with the drains installed, I believe they are factory installed, but can't swear to it. I take the plugs out after every trip and so far no water, and hoping it stays that way. I really like CS boats, but the water in hull had always been a concern I had about buying one. After talking with people that had newer CS boats and they hadn't had an issue with water below the floor, I decided to buy the new 2180 DLX. Seeing the drains already installed was somewhat comforting, but only time will tell. It's been right at a year, and no water has come out the drains, so I'm still a happy owner.
A 2020 shouldn’t have u worried at all
@@matthew5172should I be worried about the water issue on a 2018 Carolina skiff 16 JVX? Whole point is to have a light rig!
Update on how this worked out?
It worked out just fine...I am sure there was still some waterlogged foam, as it would have taken forever to dry completely, but I definitely feel like it was an improvement.
Mike, how did your boat perform after all the water drained? Was it much improved from before the drains? I bought a J12 that can’t get up on plane ☹️
It definitely planes a little quicker. You might try a new propeller. The pitch and number of blades have a big effect. I went to 17 from 19 pitch with 4 blades and it made a big difference.
@@MikeRose1 i mean how old is the boat vs the amount of water in it ?
@@AmazonWebService98 It was around 16 years old when I did this.
@@MikeRose1 top speed?
@@patrickharlow7724 about 35
Respirator, and Longsleeves to crazy
what year boat is this?
2004
@@MikeRose1 thanks! I’m wondering If i should do this to my 2008
Still have that custom PVC? I’m in NC and need to borrow it for my J16 😂
Yep. You can have it.
@@MikeRose1 Happen to be near Charlotte by chance?
@@JohnsonBannerman nope...I'm about 3 hours east of you.
@@MikeRose1 Ah that's ok, I'll use your design and make one. Thanks for the tutorial!
@@JohnsonBannerman sounds good! thanks for watching!
You shouldn't have drilled the screws holes for the female side of the plug. The 5200 is enough to hold it. Now you're just creating more ways for water to get inside lol.
Seems excessive for a small bit of water. Now you have holes in your hull.
Maybe so, but I couldn't know until I did it and the drains I put in are on every other type of boat so I felt good about them not leaking. Thanks for watching!
Never bring a wood bit to a fiberglass hole...lol
What is the name of those plugs?
I was originally going to use the SeaSense Drain- One -Way Safety Plug but then opted for the SeaSense Unified Marine 50032282 Drain Plug Garboard, Brass. But I mixed parts from the two...I actually like the screw in plug from the first one, but opted for the simpler drain to make sure it wouldn't get clogged.
Garboard plugs
Good job!
Harbor freight has like four foot extensions
I have a TwinVee... same issue in my sponsons... same manufacturer denials... but for me I did the exact same fix.
Air compressors hold moisture causing them to blow water from the nozzle just saying
I have a refrigerated air dryer installed in line after my air compressor to remove any moisture.
@@MikeRose1 they only do so much but definitely help !
How much water did you evacuate from the hull?
between 8-10 gallons
@@MikeRose1 Enough to make you sick!
@@MikeRose1 i used a 6 foot long electricians drill bit then added a 6 foot extension, went thru the baffles until i had reached past the front of the console, mine is a 16 foot dlx i got water draining for a week easily in excess of 100 gallons
@@FakeFriendzU wow!!!
@@MikeRose1 after i did mine it ran so much better, then i kept it in my lake for about 8 months, just pulled it out and had about 3 gallons in it so not bad!!!!!
carolina skiff has indevidually fiberglassed boards in the floor so that's just weird , every screw i put in mine was sealed with proper sealant
I would agree that it should be that way, but you can search the internet and find that this is a very common problem. I actually became aware of this from a local boat builder who has seen this many, many times. Good luck though and I hope yours stays dry!
@@MikeRose1 i've seen a few videos of carolina skiff with water in the hull , i'm concerned about my j 16 now but all i have is front deck and bench seat in the back for tiller arm motor and a storage seat in the middle and those screws are inside box , do you think i should be concerned ? i almost wish i would've gotten an aluminum boat now
@@camhester4251 I wouldn’t worry about it too much but I do have a peace of mind knowing I was able to get rid of the majority of the water. Especially with winter coming on, I am going to leave the new plugs out for a couple of months and not worry about water in the hull freezing and expanding and popping my fiberglass or gel coat.
@@camhester4251 I've got a J16. It's full of water. Mines been water logged so long I'm going to have to rip the floor up and refoam it. TBH the foam they use in these boats never dries out completely.
@@toolman9081 i'd sell it or junk it and buy aluminum , mine still in good shape and it's a 98 model
Great job thanks
thanks for watching!
Mako skiffs have the same issue.
That's a wood bit not for fiberglass but ok
I just put a floor compartment and lean it back and suck out water with shop vac🤷🏽
So is mine rotted ?
there's no wood in these boats, so it might be waterlogged but it shouldn't be rotted
There’s plywood in the dlx’s transoms.
Thank you for taking the time to record this and share it. I have an 88 Bass Boat that I just discovered has water-logged foam on the sides similar to yours. I imagine I will be doing this in the near future to drain those sections of the hull also.
Now that it has been a couple years, is there anything you would do differently or advice that you could provide for someone like myself that is about to take on the same task?
Not really. Other than using the correct bits and a drill instead of an impact that upset so many people. Haha. Thanks for watching!
Park boat in Arizona desert for a season
Good job but I would hav used 4200 not 5200. It allows for removal.
Drill a smaller hole, use a vacuum pump like whats used to evacuate air conditioning systems and all the water will vaporize and get vacuumed out.
For water to vaporize it must be under a vacuum. With all the holes in the boat it wont hold a vacuum. Those pumps are not high volume.
Drilled and tapped and used 8x32 screws stainless
I got close to 40 gallons out of my inner hull
Wow! What model?
Holy crap, 320 lbs should make a huge difference in every aspect of running any boat. I'm probably about to do this on my 2011 21 Ultra Elite.
You could place that boat in the middle of Hell and it wouldn't dry out.
ONLY ONLY ONLY way to dry out a wet boat or wet foam is to open it up and remove the damage.
To clarify this.. I just cut a stringer out of a 69 mako that I have had the floor out for 5 years and the stringer was still wet with the 600 lbs of wet foam removed 5 years ago.
I left the water melon like foam in a trailer covered in NC for the Summer and decided to check it months later,., Well it was still like a juicy water melon.
I do give you an A+ for effort,. but Your headway did not match your efforts.
These old boats rot like this because the water CAN NOT be extracted except by a total renovation. and most just won't do that.
Even putting the boat in a Kiln will not pull that trapped water out of the foam,.
And any state that has freezing weather just breaks more closed cells and the Cancer grows until you STOP it.
I'm not going to put a percentage out but about all boats that sit out more than 1-2 years has water damage, add 15-20 years to that and you can probably do your own math as to how many boats are water logged to some degree. if not severely,..
The few boats kept under cover are the only survivors.
I have tore 2 boats down, my neighbor had a NC Skiff, and after helping me on mine, when he got water from screws holding his transducer at transom,.,. he got rid of his boat.
Cheers everyone.
yep...I agree with you..I was really just confirming my fears that the hull had water in it...there is no way to get all that water out without tearing it apart, but the boat wasn't worth it for me to consider that. Thanks for watching!
Not enough water for all that.
Not enough holes
Skip to 7 minutes.
If ur using a screw u don’t drill a hole like that😂the point is for the screw to grab in the wood, this is common sense lol
Not everyone has it tho, those screws will come loose over time for the vibrations and water beating the hull
There is no wood in this boat and if you don't predrill the holes, you will just crack the fiberglass.
@@MikeRose1 this is correct, the transom is made of high density foam… still same concept, only suppose to drill through the gellcoat and then let the screw grab the material and bite vs a wallowed out hole
@@TheSteelerfool The hole wasn't wallowed out, It was slightly smaler than the screw allowing for the screw to grab tight. Rest assured, after a year, the screws are still tight. Thanks though.
@@MikeRose1 obviously the hole wasn’t wallowed out🤦🏼♂️ but it will be after vibrations and hard use…
OMG 😲😲😲
Probably just drilled all the way into your live well.....😃
haha....luckily the drilling went right where I wanted it to...I was more worried about drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat.
that is not a good move. you have to look up specs. you might have exposed wood now? only get worse now. you cant fill those holes in the transom like it was! deck inspection plates would have been a better solution on the cheap! or cut the floor out get rid of the foam. put a pad on the bottom. put new floor in. [ lots of options. ] go faster for free! . self drain too!
Carolina skiffs don’t have any wood.
HOLE SAW
Those drill bits do suck
Good way to get water out of your carolina skiff.... dont buy a Carolina skiff.
Hello. How many litters did you remove from the double hull?
around 8 gallons I believe...so around 36 liters.