I love my louvers on my ZJ. They really help at low speeds by allowing heat to rise and dissipate faster. I did a comparison before/after and it lowered Temps by about 20-30 degrees. This really helps out the plastic and rubber components as well as the engine. It was a little nerve racking cutting into the hood. Plus they look cool, and thats 90% of Jeeping.
I used to make dumb mistakes and totally beat myself up over it, but I’ve learned that if I just take a little more time as well as removing my head from my butt really helps.
I have a 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon. It get so hot under the hood, I often times get over heating problems. When I would open the hood, it was so hot, I couldn't touch anything. I bought a Hood Vent Kit for $120 dollars and it made a huge difference and I am very pleased.
I dont care about the engine bay temps, but in australian summer, they made a world of difference bringing my floor temp down. (I dont run carpet) Best mod ive done 110%, still a sweat box.. but atleast my feet arnt burnt
After I started reading comments, I realized I should just post this instead of replying to everyone.. Many seem worried about stuff under the hood getting wet. Pop the hood after you've been driving in the rain some time, it's wet everywhere. And if you've been out mudding or bombing through trails with deep-ass puddles and/or creeks, it's not exactly dry under there. Fred Williams drove his Jeep under water.
In late winter when it was only in the mid 80’s, my air inlet temp was 120’s while driving, and nearly 150 when stopped at red-lights. Hot air inlet temps kill power and mpg
Check out The Midgard Workshop, aka dirt dogs off-road. Lots of really cool custom made hood vents. For all different jeeps. That goes for all your viewers too. At least give that guy a look see. I’m very impressed with the quality of his parts. More than just hood vents too.
An adequate low pressure zone on the top of the hood is not formed unless you are going fast enough. For most rock crawling and trail riding you are below these speeds. Most of your heat loss at these low speeds is because hot air wants to rise up and out of the vents. Your system will work better than most on road over 25MPH, but for slower off road driving, it's all about the free area of the holes, which your system seems to have plenty also! Great job!
I installed the larger hood vent that fits completely over the raised portion of the TJ hood and it has helped tremendously. Also, will install these long rectangular Gen Right vents. Besides letting hot air out, they look stout. I will never install a cai because they are useless, but I will install the Mopar hood air box vent seen on the concept Jeep Nacho. It comes with a snap on inside hood cover to keep moisture out on snow and rainy days.
A wicker bill in front of any vent helps. Just a small vertical lip. Even a bent up vent... You create a low pressure, the higher pressure from underwood then vents more effectively
I dont understand the jeep overheating issue because I live in Arizona and not many jeeps run hood vents. Neither of my xjs have had any overheating problems my parents never had problems with their YJ or ZJ and people don't seem to have problems on the trails but less hot states they seem to struggle. Maybe it's a humidity thing
i have a 93 zj and i overheat like crazy in the summer especially with ac on and i can’t figure it out. i replaced the whole stock cooling system except for the fan, and that’s gonna be replaced in the next week
Vents are never enough when your either running high horsepower or you have some kind of a cooling issue. You can remove the entire hood and it can still overheat.
100% correct! However; underhood temps can cause heat-soak. For me, when I was climbing grades in CO, my engine was running cool, 210 degrees, but it would sometimes be hard to re-start after a difficult haul (ie, stopping to eat lunch after climbing Imogene). I noticed that opening my hood after shutting off the engine helped. The DEI rail insulator also helped.
I upped my HP. Switched to 3000CFM rear electric fan with a 975CFM pusher in front as well as an oversized Mishimoto radiator and a 160 degree thermostat. It helped. I think my snorkel looks dumb, but I also draw cool, cleaner air from up above my Jeep on 35's now...
Also, the real question is: For a "2006", which may have some extra shielding where the exhaust comes out of the engine, can I get away with just using the heat wraps around the injectors & fuel rail/lines in the heat zones? If the hood vents will actually make the 2006 last longer, I should go for it... I think the plastic parts are very strong to last this long; I want to maximize life.
great for an inline 6. What's it look like for a v8? or even an all-aluminum v8? They have huge heatsoak due to the high thermal transfer rate of aluminum.
like all the water that gets thrown at it from every other direction? As long as you're not creating a spot where water would dump into the intake, it should be fine.
@@Maxxis1941 Let me help. The "Center Support" is the lengthwise "beam" running the length of the hood in the middle. His "no cut zone". At least 50% of the two most center vents over the radiator are completely blocked (under the hood) by the Center Support/no cut zone. The beam would still maintain its purpose of supplying rigidity to the length of the hood and would not be affected by numerous vent holes to tie the under hood to the vents on top blocked by the Center Support. Also, the vents themselves alleviate some of the "oil canning" the center support is supposed to prevent. So in simple terms: Connect the blocked center vents to the under hood area where the heat is. Does this help?
Really liked the video. Seeing fake hood vents bother me as Im sure it does to everyone else here... Question - What are the downsides to using that many hood vents? Living in a wet state I am paranoid of too much water getting into the engine department or on electrical components etc. I know you and Nate are also up here in the PNW so I am curious what your thoughts are?
I have a chevy vruze and it runs hot 2012..im thinking of installing a hood.vent in the center and 2 other vents on either side...do u think it will make a difference?
question is how much water get into your engine bay with louvers? i have a 96 xj intake temps get up to 180+ water 210+ having vapor lock while driving. i need louvers but what do i need to water prof ?
@Muddy Beards 4X4 ok, it's been 2 years since the louvers. How does it work? I've got an 06 tj, and I've never had the heat soak issues, but I've always noticed the heat, and I've got the heat cracking on my hood. I've been told by the old guys not to install my electric fan because it can't keep up, so I haven't. I just installed the psa Hydro Assist, and my clutch resivore has pushed out fluid because of the location of the steering resivor. So I guess I do have heat soak now. Are you still overheating on the trails after the mod?
@@traviscram1364 my 96 has not been on trails. i have frame issues to deal with but city driving it get really hot. i havent done this mod yet i rewired my e-fan so i can turn it on and drilled a few holes in my hood. no real difference in that. im going to do that mod when it gets warmer out.
@@DatBoiOrly And that heat from the engine heats other components... Some of those components will see their lifespans heavily reduced if you keep them exposed to the high heat that comes with low speed use. Batteries being something overlanders and rock crawlers tend to chew through. You're not going to get rid of all the heat through a radiator. The exhaust is a significant source of the heat in an engine bay, moreso if you have a turbo arrangement, and heat still radiates off the block itself.
@@reaperreaper5098 that's also part of the engine the cooler the engine temps the cooler the exhaust temps it's that simple. Since your an amateur In this field allow me to explain this, when a engine gets hot the the leaner the fuel to air mixture is because fuel evaporates In the lines the leaner it is the hotter it is, if it gets too lean it can melt pistons and destroy your engine, since the motor is cooler so are your fuel lines meaning less fuel evaporation meaning a higher fuel to air mixture making the exhaust gasses more cooler there for making the bay cooler.
@@DatBoiOrly Tell you what, do a study that empirically proves every off roader that has seen improvement with vents wrong. I know you can't, for two reasons that are obvious to people that actually know how radiators and heat transfer work: The heat expelled from radiators goes into the engine bay. Bigger radiators don't often equate to better cooling, they only prolong heat soak. That'd help if components other than the engine were overheating, but that's not the case.
Yes and no. Yes at slow speeds, this would absolutely work (driving off-road) but anything over say 20mph it would make things worse as it's a high pressure area. A thing to note though, vents only work at 60mph for them to actually suck air out... However heat can rise out of them at any speed, especially slow speeds, it's just not super effective.
If under hood temps were that big of an issue these would make more sense. Plus, wouldn’t manufacturers start installing them from the factory? I don’t understand the true tangible benefit aside from a small reduction of under hood temps other than they “look” cool. I’m not trying to be a punk. Just being honest.
I think he explains it pretty well in the video he was having problems with heat. I see your argument on other forums yet a lot of people who have had cooling issues found this to help. People aren't having problems driving around town it's on long slow technical trails that these issues start to crop up so it only affects 0.5% of Wranglers out there. (made up stat) We have to do a lot of things to our jeeps when adding larger tires, wheeling harder, etc. This is just one of those mods that people find to help them. I do wonder if he was running a factory fan if he'd have lesser issues. Great video muddy beards! thanks!
The problem is running your vehicle off road at low speed and relatively high engine RPM due the 4LO gear reduction. Low speed reduces cooling airflow and higher RPM increase engine heat output. This would not be a problem on a road which is why manufacturers choose not to install vents from the factory. This is only something you would do if you need to operate your vehicle at low speed and relatively high (compared to on road) RPM.
@@JeepingNet totally agree. I have a TJR and have experience heat soak one time doing some slow trails. Normal driving it’s never been an issue. I just can’t bring myself to cut a hole or 4 in my hood. I plan to do more of the insulation on the injectors and other components before next summer tho so maybe that will help. I’m currently just running some sleeve insulators I found but need to redo it all.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I’m trying to understand so don’t chastise me - if you’re running a stock fan, wouldn’t it deliver the needed airflow due to it keeping up with rpm? Or am I thinking about it the wrong way?
@@justinmiller1535 I am not trying to chastise you. Sorry if I came across that way. The biggest thing to remember is flow and pressure are related. More pressure equals more flow. The fan is sized to cool the vehicle at low speeds and low engine loads/rpms, like when you are in bumper to bumper traffic. The reason this doesn't work off road is the fan is undersized for cooling the engine at higher RPMs and loads when the vehicle speed is low but you are climbing a hill or over car sized rocks. The volume of air pulled through a radiator is directly related to how much heat the radiator can reject from the coolant. When the vehicle speed is higher there is not problem because the pressure differential across the radiator that forms when the vehicle is pushing through air is enough to provide the needed flow. The fan doesn't do much at higher vehicle speed. Anyone who has stuck their hand out of a car window at highway speeds knows the aerodynamic force can be pretty high. Higher than a radiator fan could produce. With the fan and low vehicle speeds there is not as much of a pressure differential so the flow of air through a radiator is lower than at higher speeds. The vents help provide a path for air to escape from the rear of the fan (engine side) so the flow is increased. Also there is the added benefit of generally lowering under hood temps because hot air cannot become trapped under the hood. This will help the electronics and plastic or rubber parts last longer. I am sure this also helps cool the engine itself to some degree, though the majority of the cooling happens in the radiator. This seems to be the primary problem from the video. Vapor lock and overheating relays. With fans you are talking abuot inches of water when measuring pressure. Think about the force required to raise water an inch to two (0.035 to 0.07 psi) in a manometer. You can probably produce this pressure with you lungs. Get a piece of tuning in a 'U' shape and fill it partially with water. I bet you can blow all of the water out of the tube with just your lungs. One of Spal's biggest, baddest fans might be rated for about 2000 CFM, but at only 0.75 in H2O static pressure (0.03 psi). This means that any restriction in front of (the radiator) or behind (hood, inner fenders, etc.) the fan will lower flow. www.spalusa.com/products/fans/16/va33-ap71-3-ll-65a-12-16-7-p-3-12v-30102082?returnurl=%2fproducts%2ffans%2f16%2f static.summitracing.com/global/images/chartsguides/s/spu-ix-30102082.pdf Anytime there is a flow rating without a static pressure rating assume the pressure at that flow is 0 meaning there is no restriction before or after the fan. This is bogus because as soon as air moves, there is a restriction. Flow and pressure are related. Blow through a straw to illustrate this.
I love my louvers on my ZJ. They really help at low speeds by allowing heat to rise and dissipate faster. I did a comparison before/after and it lowered Temps by about 20-30 degrees. This really helps out the plastic and rubber components as well as the engine. It was a little nerve racking cutting into the hood.
Plus they look cool, and thats 90% of Jeeping.
😂
Do you know if this works on a XJ
@@yoniroberto1054 Yep
I used to make dumb mistakes and totally beat myself up over it, but I’ve learned that if I just take a little more time as well as removing my head from my butt really helps.
I have a 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon. It get so hot under the hood, I often times get over heating problems. When I would open the hood, it was so hot, I couldn't touch anything. I bought a Hood Vent Kit for $120 dollars and it made a huge difference and I am very pleased.
I dont care about the engine bay temps, but in australian summer, they made a world of difference bringing my floor temp down. (I dont run carpet)
Best mod ive done 110%, still a sweat box.. but atleast my feet arnt burnt
Damm..I live in California and it gets 115 degrees… this comment made me want to get this mode….thankyou
After I started reading comments, I realized I should just post this instead of replying to everyone.. Many seem worried about stuff under the hood getting wet. Pop the hood after you've been driving in the rain some time, it's wet everywhere. And if you've been out mudding or bombing through trails with deep-ass puddles and/or creeks, it's not exactly dry under there. Fred Williams drove his Jeep under water.
Thanks, I got tired of replying the same thing over and over👍🏻
Yeah man, that's my concern here but I feel those concerns are valid, right? You don't wanna fry any electronics and such.
They help 10-15% in reduction of cooling for sure.
It’s great for winter driving because the heat keeps ice from forming on the wipers I’ve found
In late winter when it was only in the mid 80’s, my air inlet temp was 120’s while driving, and nearly 150 when stopped at red-lights. Hot air inlet temps kill power and mpg
Poison Spyder center with Gen-Right sides. Stamping is identical as well
Fuel Rail cover kit! The unsung villain of heatsoak: Vapor Lock!
Been thinking about this for my TJ . My question is how much rain water gets on the engine and electrical components ? Great video as always .
Thanks, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. It gets wet all in there just under normal driving in the rain.
Or make a tray. ..
I straight up hose down my engine bay when I detail it. You’ll be fine
Check out The Midgard Workshop, aka dirt dogs off-road. Lots of really cool custom made hood vents. For all different jeeps. That goes for all your viewers too. At least give that guy a look see. I’m very impressed with the quality of his parts. More than just hood vents too.
An adequate low pressure zone on the top of the hood is not formed unless you are going fast enough. For most rock crawling and trail riding you are below these speeds. Most of your heat loss at these low speeds is because hot air wants to rise up and out of the vents. Your system will work better than most on road over 25MPH, but for slower off road driving, it's all about the free area of the holes, which your system seems to have plenty also! Great job!
I installed the larger hood vent that fits completely over the raised portion of the TJ hood and it has helped tremendously. Also, will install these long rectangular Gen Right vents. Besides letting hot air out, they look stout. I will never install a cai because they are useless, but I will install the Mopar hood air box vent seen on the concept Jeep Nacho. It comes with a snap on inside hood cover to keep moisture out on snow and rainy days.
You forgot to spray rust stopper on bare metal where you cut
A wicker bill in front of any vent helps. Just a small vertical lip. Even a bent up vent... You create a low pressure, the higher pressure from underwood then vents more effectively
thanks again Kelly for passing on some awesome information .
That’s funny if I ever have that problem I’ll change the exhaust system and get the cats from out under the hood😂
Thank you for this comment; it is something to consider just to improve the design function.
Thanks to you I just ordered the 5 vent option from Genright. I put your channel in the comments so hopefully they kick something back to you.
I dont understand the jeep overheating issue because I live in Arizona and not many jeeps run hood vents. Neither of my xjs have had any overheating problems my parents never had problems with their YJ or ZJ and people don't seem to have problems on the trails but less hot states they seem to struggle. Maybe it's a humidity thing
i have a 93 zj and i overheat like crazy in the summer especially with ac on and i can’t figure it out. i replaced the whole stock cooling system except for the fan, and that’s gonna be replaced in the next week
My turbo makes a lot of heat. Gotta get it out.
My aluminum radiator helped the most
No it didn't.
You need to paint those cut edges for the holes under the vents if you want to avoid rust.
Vents are never enough when your either running high horsepower or you have some kind of a cooling issue. You can remove the entire hood and it can still overheat.
100% correct! However; underhood temps can cause heat-soak. For me, when I was climbing grades in CO, my engine was running cool, 210 degrees, but it would sometimes be hard to re-start after a difficult haul (ie, stopping to eat lunch after climbing Imogene). I noticed that opening my hood after shutting off the engine helped. The DEI rail insulator also helped.
I upped my HP. Switched to 3000CFM rear electric fan with a 975CFM pusher in front as well as an oversized Mishimoto radiator and a 160 degree thermostat. It helped. I think my snorkel looks dumb, but I also draw cool, cleaner air from up above my Jeep on 35's now...
Also, the real question is: For a "2006", which may have some extra shielding where the exhaust comes out of the engine, can I get away with just using the heat wraps around the injectors & fuel rail/lines in the heat zones?
If the hood vents will actually make the 2006 last longer, I should go for it...
I think the plastic parts are very strong to last this long; I want to maximize life.
Tnku for the how to, i need this for my Jimny
Looking at this for my Ram 1500👍👍
great for an inline 6. What's it look like for a v8? or even an all-aluminum v8? They have huge heatsoak due to the high thermal transfer rate of aluminum.
I was thinking of hood vents for my XJ but my concern is water getting into the engine.
like all the water that gets thrown at it from every other direction? As long as you're not creating a spot where water would dump into the intake, it should be fine.
You can’t imagine how much moisture gets all over the engine while driving in the rain. You’re totally fine in that aspect.
Think about how much water comes on the bottom, driving in the rain. It's wide open underneath
Great work. Rivets are so great
If I have a cold air intake, add vents with more air under the hood, is that gonna make my maf sensor go crazy?
May do this to my TJ
What about for the XJ??
Is like to see a diagram for them.
I'm assuming it would be the same locations???
I would assume so, same engine. Basically over the radiator and by the header.
Those newly cut and drilled holes left bare and unprotected will corrode (rust) in no time. Should have done that before riveting. Just my 2c.
Thats crazy. Wow. Ive never had my xj 4.0 over heat. ( 4.0, 5 speed, double 231 t cases, 5.38 dana 44 front, 5.38 14 bolt rear, 39.5 boogers)
i have a 96 xj all new cooling system it stays 210-216 but my intake temp gets up to 180+ then it runs like shi_.
This is most likely your problem. I have a video on it.
th-cam.com/video/6fZepCMEIcw/w-d-xo.html
Where are you guys finding louvers like this? All I can find are the big ones that cover almost the entire hood.
Genright offroad
Hey man I enjoyed your vid very informational but I do have a question. When you added your vents how much water goes into the engine bay?
Thanks, water sprays up into the engine bay more than what comes down, it’s not really an issue.
Is there a reason you didn’t remove the hood to do all this?
I have a question. Does your Jeep have any problems due to rain infiltration either when your driving or after it sits for a few days in the rain.
Doesent this cause water to get into the engine though? I live in Louisiana
That was super informative!
Are those floor vents for a house?
I wonder if its worthwhile on a JK? Plan on picking one up soon.
So are working to keep the temps d own.?
Nice work and good science. Question: Why didn't you at least drill some through holes in the center support area to get some advantage of the vents?
Through holes to get some advantage of the vents?
This question is confusing.
@@Maxxis1941 Let me help. The "Center Support" is the lengthwise "beam" running the length of the hood in the middle. His "no cut zone". At least 50% of the two most center vents over the radiator are completely blocked (under the hood) by the Center Support/no cut zone. The beam would still maintain its purpose of supplying rigidity to the length of the hood and would not be affected by numerous vent holes to tie the under hood to the vents on top blocked by the Center Support. Also, the vents themselves alleviate some of the "oil canning" the center support is supposed to prevent. So in simple terms: Connect the blocked center vents to the under hood area where the heat is. Does this help?
Really liked the video. Seeing fake hood vents bother me as Im sure it does to everyone else here... Question - What are the downsides to using that many hood vents? Living in a wet state I am paranoid of too much water getting into the engine department or on electrical components etc. I know you and Nate are also up here in the PNW so I am curious what your thoughts are?
I wouldn’t worry about water, the whole underside is open, it is getting water all in there just driving around in the rain.
Why did you not cut the front vent complete across ?
There is a center rib that is the “frame” of the hood. If I did that the hood would not be solid and fold in half.
I have a chevy vruze and it runs hot 2012..im thinking of installing a hood.vent in the center and 2 other vents on either side...do u think it will make a difference?
Is there a hot spot map for the Jeep xj
question is how much water get into your engine bay with louvers? i have a 96 xj intake temps get up to 180+ water 210+ having vapor lock while driving. i need louvers but what do i need to water prof ?
I haven’t waterproofed anything. There is a ton of water that sprays up from underneath anyways, it really doesn’t make a difference
@Muddy Beards 4X4 ok, it's been 2 years since the louvers. How does it work? I've got an 06 tj, and I've never had the heat soak issues, but I've always noticed the heat, and I've got the heat cracking on my hood. I've been told by the old guys not to install my electric fan because it can't keep up, so I haven't. I just installed the psa Hydro Assist, and my clutch resivore has pushed out fluid because of the location of the steering resivor. So I guess I do have heat soak now. Are you still overheating on the trails after the mod?
@@traviscram1364 my 96 has not been on trails. i have frame issues to deal with but city driving it get really hot. i havent done this mod yet i rewired my e-fan so i can turn it on and drilled a few holes in my hood. no real difference in that. im going to do that mod when it gets warmer out.
I missed it. Where do I purchase the vents??
These are genright offroad
Can u drive on rain with them
Vents make sense to a certain extent but why not just replace your radiator for a bigger one for a cleaner look.
Bigger rads only help the engine. Vents help cool everything.
@@reaperreaper5098 the biggest contributor of heat in the engine bay is the engine itself minimize that you get lower temps it's that simple tbh.
@@DatBoiOrly And that heat from the engine heats other components...
Some of those components will see their lifespans heavily reduced if you keep them exposed to the high heat that comes with low speed use. Batteries being something overlanders and rock crawlers tend to chew through.
You're not going to get rid of all the heat through a radiator. The exhaust is a significant source of the heat in an engine bay, moreso if you have a turbo arrangement, and heat still radiates off the block itself.
@@reaperreaper5098 that's also part of the engine the cooler the engine temps the cooler the exhaust temps it's that simple. Since your an amateur In this field allow me to explain this, when a engine gets hot the the leaner the fuel to air mixture is because fuel evaporates In the lines the leaner it is the hotter it is, if it gets too lean it can melt pistons and destroy your engine, since the motor is cooler so are your fuel lines meaning less fuel evaporation meaning a higher fuel to air mixture making the exhaust gasses more cooler there for making the bay cooler.
@@DatBoiOrly Tell you what, do a study that empirically proves every off roader that has seen improvement with vents wrong.
I know you can't, for two reasons that are obvious to people that actually know how radiators and heat transfer work:
The heat expelled from radiators goes into the engine bay.
Bigger radiators don't often equate to better cooling, they only prolong heat soak. That'd help if components other than the engine were overheating, but that's not the case.
The side ones look like heat vents in my house
Will this 5 piece set up work on my '98 XJ with a 4.0L?
Is there any info on xj hot spots ?
since it has the same engine i would imagine the same general areas.
What brand of vents are they?
GenRight Off Road
Where do you all get the hood vents from
They are Genright vents.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you
Would this boost MPG?
Just look where hood lovers are on Toyota FJ40 orcUAZ 469
👍🏻
Anyone painting the drilled or cut edges ?
That would be a good idea, prevent rust.
Could you just space up the back of the bonnet 10mm and do the same thing?
Yes and no.
Yes at slow speeds, this would absolutely work (driving off-road) but anything over say 20mph it would make things worse as it's a high pressure area.
A thing to note though, vents only work at 60mph for them to actually suck air out... However heat can rise out of them at any speed, especially slow speeds, it's just not super effective.
If under hood temps were that big of an issue these would make more sense. Plus, wouldn’t manufacturers start installing them from the factory? I don’t understand the true tangible benefit aside from a small reduction of under hood temps other than they “look” cool. I’m not trying to be a punk. Just being honest.
I think he explains it pretty well in the video he was having problems with heat. I see your argument on other forums yet a lot of people who have had cooling issues found this to help. People aren't having problems driving around town it's on long slow technical trails that these issues start to crop up so it only affects 0.5% of Wranglers out there. (made up stat) We have to do a lot of things to our jeeps when adding larger tires, wheeling harder, etc. This is just one of those mods that people find to help them. I do wonder if he was running a factory fan if he'd have lesser issues. Great video muddy beards! thanks!
The problem is running your vehicle off road at low speed and relatively high engine RPM due the 4LO gear reduction. Low speed reduces cooling airflow and higher RPM increase engine heat output. This would not be a problem on a road which is why manufacturers choose not to install vents from the factory. This is only something you would do if you need to operate your vehicle at low speed and relatively high (compared to on road) RPM.
@@JeepingNet totally agree. I have a TJR and have experience heat soak one time doing some slow trails. Normal driving it’s never been an issue. I just can’t bring myself to cut a hole or 4 in my hood. I plan to do more of the insulation on the injectors and other components before next summer tho so maybe that will help. I’m currently just running some sleeve insulators I found but need to redo it all.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I’m trying to understand so don’t chastise me - if you’re running a stock fan, wouldn’t it deliver the needed airflow due to it keeping up with rpm? Or am I thinking about it the wrong way?
@@justinmiller1535 I am not trying to chastise you. Sorry if I came across that way. The biggest thing to remember is flow and pressure are related. More pressure equals more flow.
The fan is sized to cool the vehicle at low speeds and low engine loads/rpms, like when you are in bumper to bumper traffic. The reason this doesn't work off road is the fan is undersized for cooling the engine at higher RPMs and loads when the vehicle speed is low but you are climbing a hill or over car sized rocks. The volume of air pulled through a radiator is directly related to how much heat the radiator can reject from the coolant.
When the vehicle speed is higher there is not problem because the pressure differential across the radiator that forms when the vehicle is pushing through air is enough to provide the needed flow. The fan doesn't do much at higher vehicle speed.
Anyone who has stuck their hand out of a car window at highway speeds knows the aerodynamic force can be pretty high. Higher than a radiator fan could produce.
With the fan and low vehicle speeds there is not as much of a pressure differential so the flow of air through a radiator is lower than at higher speeds. The vents help provide a path for air to escape from the rear of the fan (engine side) so the flow is increased.
Also there is the added benefit of generally lowering under hood temps because hot air cannot become trapped under the hood. This will help the electronics and plastic or rubber parts last longer. I am sure this also helps cool the engine itself to some degree, though the majority of the cooling happens in the radiator. This seems to be the primary problem from the video. Vapor lock and overheating relays.
With fans you are talking abuot inches of water when measuring pressure. Think about the force required to raise water an inch to two (0.035 to 0.07 psi) in a manometer. You can probably produce this pressure with you lungs. Get a piece of tuning in a 'U' shape and fill it partially with water. I bet you can blow all of the water out of the tube with just your lungs.
One of Spal's biggest, baddest fans might be rated for about 2000 CFM, but at only 0.75 in H2O static pressure (0.03 psi). This means that any restriction in front of (the radiator) or behind (hood, inner fenders, etc.) the fan will lower flow.
www.spalusa.com/products/fans/16/va33-ap71-3-ll-65a-12-16-7-p-3-12v-30102082?returnurl=%2fproducts%2ffans%2f16%2f
static.summitracing.com/global/images/chartsguides/s/spu-ix-30102082.pdf
Anytime there is a flow rating without a static pressure rating assume the pressure at that flow is 0 meaning there is no restriction before or after the fan. This is bogus because as soon as air moves, there is a restriction. Flow and pressure are related. Blow through a straw to illustrate this.
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@muddy
Best hood vent is removing the hood 😂
1st like ayeee
Nice Vid! Is it possible to ask if you would feature me on your channel? Your the best!😊
I don't thing you need to hawe that ventilation
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