Thanks Brian . Been trying to aim correctly since the 1960’s . Lol Had your ebook a few years ,and decided I’d like your print addition I just acquired. Good information. ( I appreciate how much thought you have given this ) .
In time you will be able to visualize the angles by just observing, OB position # and QB shot angle as a scale using the rail as a guide ,then visualize that % of angle to the OB: 1/2, 3/4, 1/4, 7/8 or whatever % of shot. I've been playing this system for about six mouths and have improved my game dramatically. Give it time and let it sink in.
Your system is amazing it’s almost like you can’t miss been practicing the 1/8 and 1/4 ball shots on a 9 ft table making about 8 out of 10. It’s like I don’t even have to look at the pockets anymore. I will be asking some questions after I get your kindle. Stephen
I do the aiming this way: visualize the line through the object ball and also keep the reference of triangle between the line and rail. This way you are able to shoot so called blind pockets - you don't see where the pocket is, but as long you know the triangle shape just aim along the hypothenuse. The correct contact point should be automatic. You should be able to correct it with/or for side spins. Even more: don't try to find the point on object ball - just feel it. Feel that you are in conjuction with that triangle. Another important part is stance. If you feel that you are not on the correct aiming line you shoudd not tilt yourself to get there but slide your feet. The one that doesn't hold weight. Left, when shooting with right arm. Right otherwise. Otherwise your body will be in forced shape and you still miss even though you aimed through the correct line. It happens due to tensed muscles that will release along the time you release your hand to fall into stroke. Don't play the game as a practice but shoot some shots to object ball (constatnt place) from different angles (cue ball) until you get it from any place. Then try from same ball positions to position cue ball into different positions (top/bottom/left/right spins). You'll note that you should adjust aiming line. Repeat until adjustments get automatic. As a side effect you'll learn great deal where the cue ball is going to land and how spins affect bouncing angles from rails. Don't hit the cue ball but stroke it. Hand muscles should be relaxed otherwise your aiming line gets destroyed at the moment the hand starts moving. Learn to stroke with follow through. Tere are many videos up here on that topic. There are two main styles for stroke: only forearm is moving or all the parts of hand are moving. Don't try to hit hard with first, because for strong shots you need a lots of follow through to prevent kicking. Forearm ampitude just isn't long enough and it creates "digging move" as cue falls and rises with palm.
Been playing pool for 3 years. Think I'm a little better than ur weekend pool player. Just missing consistantcy. Purchased ur book a couple weeks ago. Best $20 spent ever. Only read zone A. Went to pool hall to practice what I've read and it was truly amazing. Gave me CONFIDENCE! Ran a rack of 9ball. Thanks Brian. Can't wait to read zones B and C.
No..Thank u. To the pool player who is looking to get better, this book is for u. How many times have we said "man if I wouldn't have missed that shot I could have won." Highly recommend this to that pool player!!
Tips as ive been using this for a year: 1. Start with memorising quater, half and 3/4 ball .... then once you can do that split the difference for weird angles. 2. It's easier to work out the angle if you visualise 90 degrees first. 3. The easiest way is to line up the cue ball with the object ball with your eyes, stand I front of the line, then estimate the pocket angle from the object ball. Then squat down and take aim. It's a procedure
New question, when I shoot a shot with let’s say 1/2 tip of English or a full tip of English, I aim to miss the pocket when using this much English. Some other you tubers say to aim for the pocket instead. Since I think your the very best teacher period what do you say? Aim outside the pocket or not. As always your the best period!!!! Steve
There are different ways to think about or describe "aiming". I prefer to say we aim the cb into the ob. Others like to say they aim the ob into the pocket. But, honestly, they are really aiming the cb to strike the ob in order to send it to the pocket. With all that said, here's my answer to your question: When using english I aim the shot THICKER or THINNER than normal. Normal is aiming the cb so that it looks like it'll send the ob to the pocket. Aiming thicker or thinner means I aim the cb so that it looks like I'm aiming too thick or to thin to send the ob to the pocket. Speed and amount of spin come into play, but I definitely aim shots thicker or thinner when using english. In other words, from behind the cb (which is the ball I am aiming) it looks like I am aiming too thin or too thick in reference to the ob and the pocket.
i am not downing condeming or disputing any of this guys help he offers and it is prolly spot on . but again it is technical where as it need not be unless you are totally new to the game ,. i am a excellent ball maker just trouble with whitey the cue ball sometimes ........... that being said i think when pool or anything becomes so mechanical it is no longer a sport . now with that being said if we take a ball a half inch off the rail so to speak we know we need to cut it absolutely straight no matter what the contact point does not need to be mathematic . the same with other shots especially to players who have hit a million balls or so and still struggle . you know exactly where the pocket is and can feel it and can feel the angle based on all your senses thrown at you from 5 other pockets plus the rails ........ that object ball is just begging to be struck in only one spot to be honest . you may struggle feeling that from a bad stance or alignment . but if you get your head down to the slate so to speak and play the game one dimentionally not only does the pockets become bigger so do contact points and cueball deflection .,,,,,,,, another example would be a ghost ball method of lining up sure that tells you where to hit the object ball but once you walk back to the cue ball that mark is gone and your still stuck with a shot 8 feet down the rail and 6 inches off the rail you just need to feel the 2 intersecting angles bewteen the long and short rails ,,,,,,,,,,,,, if your on a 10 footer or 7 footer thoose change also ........... you dont really need math to complicate the entire game always is my point ........ now what he teaches is correct and has its place i am sure but not for every single shot . HAVE FAITH IN YOUR SENSES . ITS WHAT MAKES THE GAME GREAT AND HUMAN .
I couldn't agree more! The primary goal of Poolology (the book) is to allow a player to develop a feel for pocketing a ball exactly as you describe -- freely, automatically, just see it and shoot it. I like what you've said here.
It would be a great addition for those who bought your book to have a private video of you explaining the system. Some parts of the book would be easier to understand with a video explanation. Also, would the system work on all sizes of tables? 7”, 8’, 9’ ?
That's a good idea. I recently uploaded a video that explains the system a bit. It's here: th-cam.com/video/TymStoW_F6k/w-d-xo.html And it works on any size table.
"A good basketball player hand" is apparently about 8 or 9 inches... I'm 6'1, 6'2, with what I would call proportonately sized hands, and my hand, from the bottom of my palm to the tip of my middle finger, when splayed, is 7.25". Running the math on this (2.25" / tan(15) ) says the balls need to be ~8.4" apart for this to be accurate. So for average sized humans, this "one hand" estimate is not particularly accurate, but it does provide a reference at the very least. All I'm saying is, measure your hand real quick folks. By the way, I think this system is an awesome idea for estimating cut angles, I'm excited to go try it out.
Yes, it is only an estimation. But if you can place your 7.25" hand between the cb and ob without touching either ball, then you'll likely have about 8 to 8.5 inches or more of space there. So it works well for a good estimate. It is quite more complicated than I describe in this video. I say each angle is separated by "about 15 degrees", but if done as described, the actual angle between each cb placed side by side ends up being 12.5° because we are referencing center cb to center ob, not accounting for the slight angle change whenwe actually aim for the fractional aim point. For the exact distance from cb center to ob center we actually have to split the 12.5° triangle into two 6.25° right triangles with the 90° perpendicular being midway between cb centers. The length of the hypotenuse would then be the required distance from each cb center to the center of the ob. It is 1.125"/sin(6.25°), which equals 10.3". But since this is from center to center, we subtract 2.25" (half of each ball) to get the actual distance between the balls where we can literally fit a hand. That puts it right at about 8". I figured saying "8 to 9 inches" would be a sufficient length to make some pretty accurate estimations without getting into all the precise technicalities. 🤔
My game went from mmmmm... To DAMN BOY!! You dead on the aiming line!! Wonderful wonderful explanation and I'm looking forward to buying and reading your book.
Just FYI, "Pete" is a third rate harmonica player who hangs onto the coattails of real musicians hoping it will rub off on him. He also can't run 3 balls. I don't generally make a habit of telling the truth about sad old men, but this guy is bad news. His comments (and mine) should be deleted.
I don't use partial ball hits for my aiming system but this intrigues me. It does seem like a very valid way to aim shots and probably just a matter of getting used to it.
My cut and bank shots have improved vastly, easy too visualize cut angles after a few weeks of practice. Highly recommended to anyone wanting to improve their game
I just bought the book and think it's very interesting. But I'm confused, and have a question for anyone (or Brian) who understands the system. For the side pockets there are two different zoning methods depending on being above or below the pocket. But the position of cue / object balls would just be the same above or below the pocket, as it's symmetrical - so why doesn't it just use one of the zoning methods both above and below the side pockets?
@@mhgbu the simple answer: It doesn't work that easily. The system was created using circular patterns that reference not only the pockets, but also the rail diamonds. With corner pockets this works out well because each corner pocket has a rail on each side that corresponds to the circular pattern. The side pockets, however, differ because the referenced rails are 180° apart, rather than 90°, like a corner pocket, so the circular pattern can only match up with one rail at a time. Anytime the cb to ob centerline is pointing to the other rail (to the other side of the side pocket), that rail is not symmetrical. So the different ob position values had to be formulated to make the system work correctly.
@@Poolology101 Thanks for the explanation, but I'm still struggling to understand why the entire zone system from one side can't just be flipped depending on which side the balls are, and work like that? The pool table is 100% symmetrical after all.
very good video...really... but too complicated. My tip is to get used to missing shots and judging them better next time. Or simply imagine the cue going thru the white ball hitting the object ball right on the specific spot. It works quite good to me and I can keep my consistency while playing snooker or pool.
Thank you. And that's a good tip. But it's the old trial and error method, the "hit a million balls" method. It works, though very time consuming. Consistency comes from repetition. When using trial and error methods, we don't get enough successful repetitions to program the brain very quickly. That's why we have to hit so many shots before we develop a good eye or feel for pocketing balls. By reducing or eliminating most of the misses associated with trial and error, we can provide the brain with more consistent data, which helps develop shot making consistency at a much faster pace. Incorporating a little visual help like in this video, or better yet using a fractional aiming system like Poolology, provides a great shortcut to developing consistency, when compared to the good ol' trial and error methods.
@@whitigir the measured distanced from center ob to center cb would be 8.5". So, on a small bar table it's roughly 1 diamond distance, and on a 9ft table it's a little less than 3/4 of a diamond (about 0.7 of a diamond distance).
When you pull the balls back and space them out so there is a ball space in between them how would you space them out if they were 3feet further back? Your hand distance away from the object ball can that help us out lining the balls out from 5or 6 feet away? I gots to know!
I am very intrested to know about the poolology numbers you were talking about! I went through the channel videos to but couldnt find a video with the appropriate title. Only if you could point me in the right directions.
The details are in the book, Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming. It can be downloaded for less than $10 on Amazon or Lulu, as well as other digital book websites. Printed copies are around $20 or less and available on Amazon, Lulu, Books-a-Million, Barnes and Noble etc...
It's a way of describing the cb-ob relationship, as seen from the shooters perspective at the point when the cb strikes the ob. In other words, a halfball hit is when you send the cb to a point that results in half of the cb overlapping half of the ob. Aiming center cb to the outer edge of the ob creates this "halfball" cb-ob relationship. A 1/4 hit is when only 1/4 of the cb overlaps 1/4 of the ob.
Hello.a question how do u know which way the throw will go? A little right English helps eliminate the throw is that correct.duz that work that way even wen u add sum speed?
Yes, using a little english on the opposite side of the cut angle (outside english) can reduce or eliminate any throw completely. This is referred to as "gearing" english because the cb rolls off of the ob like rotating gears. Speed and cut angle affects throw also, as well as the motion of the cb when it hits the ob. Slow speed caused more throw due to the slightly longer contact time between the balls. Thin cut shots cause throw more than thicker cut shots. A sliding cb (stun shot) causes more throw, and a spinning cb (using back spin/draw, for example) causes less throw. The most throw occurs near a halfball shot angle when shooting a stun shot (cb slides into the ob) at a medium soft speed.
It's fractional aiming. The 15° intervals represent the basic fractional aim points. The first 15° from straight in is a 3/4 ball shot, meaning the cue ball should overlap 3/4 of the object ball when the two balls collide. Aim the center of the cue ball to halfway between the middle of the object ball and the outer edge of the object ball. The next basic shot is a 1/2 ball shot, a 30° cut, where half of the cue ball should overlap the object ball when they collide. Aim straight through center cue ball to the outer edge of the object ball. Here is a video showing some fractional aim points, the 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 aims..... th-cam.com/video/RjpWka6v3Ao/w-d-xo.html
Object ball position values for zone A. how come the 40 line goes to the value of 35 and the 50 goes to 45 or whatever it was. I really want to learn this but it’s a lot to remember.
@@fries-with-lies not really, because the spot on the ball (contact point) is only the aim point for straight-in shots. On cut shots, the player has to estimate how far away from that spot they actually need to aim. It's not as easy as it sounds, or every player would be a great shot maker in no time. Lol. Plenty of players spend years guessing or estimating contact points and ghostballs, and they never become proficient shot makers. By incorporating a little fractional aiming visuals, a player gives their mind more visual data to help recognize cut shots.
@@Poolology101 ya your right i got a little confuse because i went to try it out and made the shot with a 3/8 and a touch of outside english pivot went back and read your book over again and u did mention it cool deal thank you brian crist
Not sure why I said 8.3 inches was the exact measurement. Using the ghostball center gives a calculated distance of 8.6 inches. That's from ghostball center to cue ball center. Regardless, I was actually referencing the ob itself, not the ghostball, because the ghostball is imaginary, and the ob is right there in plain sight. Still, the distance from the ob outer surface to the cb outer surface (the actual space between the balls) is 8.6". Using the ob as a reference isn't the most accurate way to determine the exact shot angle, but we're really just trying to get an estimate by using what is visible.
@@Poolology101 thank you. I laid it out with a chalk pencil and figured it out. This is great for people like me trying to learn these angles visually. I can validate it without tools. I have "calibrated" my peace sign (like Dr. Dave says) to 2.4" for this. I can lay my hand down as you did for my distance, use my 2.4" peace sign to determine how many balls "wide" the angle is and quickly determine 15, 30, 30 thick, 30 thin, etc and use the fractional aiming much easier. This is AWESOME!!!!! Thank you for sharing.
Sometimes I’m terrible at math but can remember others things so us there a cheat sheet? Like a list like zone A 50 zone through 30=?. I would have an easier time remembering a list like that rather than the calculation. I get thrown off on anything that doesn’t divide easily like 30 and fifteen for example
Yes, sometimes when using inside spin. Never when using outside spin. It takes a lot of playing to get a feel for it. But I find bhe works best with inside. About all cues play differently though, so getting to know your cue is very helpful.
I just automatically account for it when aiming. Certain shots feel automatic like that when I'm using inside english, but not as many as when I use outside.
The best price is probably on Amazon, available in small softcover or Ebook download. I think the ebook is less than $10 on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Poolology-Mastering-Aiming-Brian-Crist/dp/1532352263/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1545402299&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Poolology&dpPl=1&dpID=41eCPk8Q2mL&ref=plSrch A spiral bound edition is available on Lulu at 15% off here: www.lulu.com/shop/brian-crist/poolology-mastering-the-art-of-aiming/paperback/product-23507406.html
Of course it's not a 1/4 ball. The camera was in the way and I just placed the balls out there to show how it can be done. The spotted/measle cue ball should be the straight in shot, but anyone can see it's not. No biggie, just showing how to estimate angles, and the exact angle of any of these balls really has little to do with what I'm showing about how to estimate the angle based on hand distances.
I keep waiting on someone to actually come up with something useful and that doesn't require a Doctorate in their system to become a mediocre shootist. So far, I've never seen a system that could even come close to just plain ole repetition and concentration as a base for turning loose the players mind to "free shooting/stroking".
Hmmm.... Zoology, Trigonometry, Biology, Astrology, Geometry...Poolology. Yes, these things all have a common bond - they are REAL and objective. Poolology doesn't rely on a false belief that experience and subconscious thought aren't at work during the aiming process. In other words, there is no magical way to look at a shot and arrive at a guranteed aim line without first developing enough experience to recognize/confirm what you are looking at. This applies to all aiming methods, especially the one that uses 3 main references and a left or right pivot. 🤣 Anyone who thinks the subconscious doesn't make it work, well, they're just ignorant when it comes to how the mind and body function together. Thanks again for watching my video! Have a great new year and come back soon, or not.
His cue is moving around like a demented magicians magic wand. And each time he leans over the table his voice is not being picked up very well by the mike, all of which serve to distract ones attention from what he is trying to put across. Simple system being made more difficult imho.🙄
Thanks again for the coat tail riding of my videos. I don't mind providing you a platform to cheerlead for CTE. Lol. It says much more about my videos than it does CTE itself.
Yes, but in time you will be able to visualize the angles by just observing, OB position # and QB shot angle as a scale on the rail and visualize that % of angle to the OB: 1/2, 3/4, 1/4, 7/8 or whatever % of shot track. It works...
See it and shoot it -- that's how simple it is. Yet millions of players can't run a rack of balls without missing. The reason is because pool is not that easy. It takes a lot of practice and knowledge to make it SEEM easy, but things aren't always what they seem to be.
@@Poolology101 thats only if you want to play pro speed. I dont play pro's I beat up on leauge players. League's and fargo are a hustlers best friend. Pools not that hard. Playing +800 fargo speed is seriously hard work. Any retard can play your speed.
I don't play APA, but if I did I'd likely be a 7. In the VNEA I'm a 9 (10 is winning 100% of the games). I don't like the slop factor in APA. I like call-the-pocket format. So, once again, you are so far out in left field that you're wasting your time here. But thanks for the laughs.
After literally watching 1000 videos this one is the most helpful one I've seen. Very nicely done.
Thanks a bunch!
I'm impressed!! I came looking for a video like this and I found the best instructional I could ask for.
Thanks!
Thanks Brian . Been trying to aim correctly since the 1960’s . Lol Had your ebook a few years ,and decided I’d like your print addition I just acquired. Good information. ( I appreciate how much thought you have given this ) .
In time you will be able to visualize the angles by just observing, OB position # and QB shot angle as a scale using the rail as a guide ,then visualize that % of angle to the OB: 1/2, 3/4, 1/4, 7/8 or whatever % of shot. I've been playing this system for about six mouths and have improved my game dramatically. Give it time and let it sink in.
Your system is amazing it’s almost like you can’t miss been practicing the 1/8 and 1/4 ball shots on a 9 ft table making about 8 out of 10. It’s like I don’t even have to look at the pockets anymore. I will be asking some questions after I get your kindle. Stephen
You’re expanding my mind with this. Thank you
I do the aiming this way: visualize the line through the object ball and also keep the reference of triangle between the line and rail. This way you are able to shoot so called blind pockets - you don't see where the pocket is, but as long you know the triangle shape just aim along the hypothenuse. The correct contact point should be automatic. You should be able to correct it with/or for side spins. Even more: don't try to find the point on object ball - just feel it. Feel that you are in conjuction with that triangle. Another important part is stance. If you feel that you are not on the correct aiming line you shoudd not tilt yourself to get there but slide your feet. The one that doesn't hold weight. Left, when shooting with right arm. Right otherwise. Otherwise your body will be in forced shape and you still miss even though you aimed through the correct line. It happens due to tensed muscles that will release along the time you release your hand to fall into stroke. Don't play the game as a practice but shoot some shots to object ball (constatnt place) from different angles (cue ball) until you get it from any place. Then try from same ball positions to position cue ball into different positions (top/bottom/left/right spins). You'll note that you should adjust aiming line. Repeat until adjustments get automatic. As a side effect you'll learn great deal where the cue ball is going to land and how spins affect bouncing angles from rails. Don't hit the cue ball but stroke it. Hand muscles should be relaxed otherwise your aiming line gets destroyed at the moment the hand starts moving.
Learn to stroke with follow through. Tere are many videos up here on that topic. There are two main styles for stroke: only forearm is moving or all the parts of hand are moving. Don't try to hit hard with first, because for strong shots you need a lots of follow through to prevent kicking. Forearm ampitude just isn't long enough and it creates "digging move" as cue falls and rises with palm.
Great advice!
Been playing pool for 3 years. Think I'm a little better than ur weekend pool player. Just missing consistantcy. Purchased ur book a couple weeks ago. Best $20 spent ever. Only read zone A. Went to pool hall to practice what I've read and it was truly amazing. Gave me CONFIDENCE! Ran a rack of 9ball. Thanks Brian. Can't wait to read zones B and C.
DC Cherry, thank you for buying the book!
No..Thank u. To the pool player who is looking to get better, this book is for u. How many times have we said "man if I wouldn't have missed that shot I could have won." Highly recommend this to that pool player!!
I bought the book as well and I can say that the zone A section has been the most beneficial to me as well. It really does help.
Tips as ive been using this for a year:
1. Start with memorising quater, half and 3/4 ball .... then once you can do that split the difference for weird angles.
2. It's easier to work out the angle if you visualise 90 degrees first.
3. The easiest way is to line up the cue ball with the object ball with your eyes, stand I front of the line, then estimate the pocket angle from the object ball. Then squat down and take aim. It's a procedure
Could you explain how to do that? A video?
@@ivanromero9037 easy way is to find where you need to shoot for the objekt ball to go 45 degrees.
then you can split the difference from that.
New question, when I shoot a shot with let’s say 1/2 tip of English or a full tip of English, I aim to miss the pocket when using this much English. Some other you tubers say to aim for the pocket instead. Since I think your the very best teacher period what do you say? Aim outside the pocket or not. As always your the best period!!!! Steve
There are different ways to think about or describe "aiming". I prefer to say we aim the cb into the ob. Others like to say they aim the ob into the pocket. But, honestly, they are really aiming the cb to strike the ob in order to send it to the pocket. With all that said, here's my answer to your question:
When using english I aim the shot THICKER or THINNER than normal. Normal is aiming the cb so that it looks like it'll send the ob to the pocket. Aiming thicker or thinner means I aim the cb so that it looks like I'm aiming too thick or to thin to send the ob to the pocket. Speed and amount of spin come into play, but I definitely aim shots thicker or thinner when using english. In other words, from behind the cb (which is the ball I am aiming) it looks like I am aiming too thin or too thick in reference to the ob and the pocket.
Man on some real stuff. Nice simple video and demonstration!
Thanks!
I like it. There is no way this can't help my game by knowing this. So thanks !
You are welcome!
I Like All The Videos Your Putting Out, Knowledge Makes Pool Easy, And You Do That, Thanks.
Thanks!
i am not downing condeming or disputing any of this guys help he offers and it is prolly spot on . but again it is technical where as it need not be unless you are totally new to the game ,. i am a excellent ball maker just trouble with whitey the cue ball sometimes ........... that being said i think when pool or anything becomes so mechanical it is no longer a sport . now with that being said if we take a ball a half inch off the rail so to speak we know we need to cut it absolutely straight no matter what the contact point does not need to be mathematic . the same with other shots especially to players who have hit a million balls or so and still struggle . you know exactly where the pocket is and can feel it and can feel the angle based on all your senses thrown at you from 5 other pockets plus the rails ........ that object ball is just begging to be struck in only one spot to be honest . you may struggle feeling that from a bad stance or alignment . but if you get your head down to the slate so to speak and play the game one dimentionally not only does the pockets become bigger so do contact points and cueball deflection .,,,,,,,, another example would be a ghost ball method of lining up sure that tells you where to hit the object ball but once you walk back to the cue ball that mark is gone and your still stuck with a shot 8 feet down the rail and 6 inches off the rail you just need to feel the 2 intersecting angles bewteen the long and short rails ,,,,,,,,,,,,, if your on a 10 footer or 7 footer thoose change also ........... you dont really need math to complicate the entire game always is my point ........ now what he teaches is correct and has its place i am sure but not for every single shot . HAVE FAITH IN YOUR SENSES . ITS WHAT MAKES THE GAME GREAT AND HUMAN .
I couldn't agree more! The primary goal of Poolology (the book) is to allow a player to develop a feel for pocketing a ball exactly as you describe -- freely, automatically, just see it and shoot it. I like what you've said here.
It would be a great addition for those who bought your book to have a private video of you explaining the system.
Some parts of the book would be easier to understand with a video explanation.
Also, would the system work on all sizes of tables? 7”, 8’, 9’ ?
That's a good idea. I recently uploaded a video that explains the system a bit. It's here: th-cam.com/video/TymStoW_F6k/w-d-xo.html
And it works on any size table.
"A good basketball player hand" is apparently about 8 or 9 inches...
I'm 6'1, 6'2, with what I would call proportonately sized hands, and my hand, from the bottom of my palm to the tip of my middle finger, when splayed, is 7.25".
Running the math on this (2.25" / tan(15) ) says the balls need to be ~8.4" apart for this to be accurate.
So for average sized humans, this "one hand" estimate is not particularly accurate, but it does provide a reference at the very least.
All I'm saying is, measure your hand real quick folks.
By the way, I think this system is an awesome idea for estimating cut angles, I'm excited to go try it out.
Yes, it is only an estimation. But if you can place your 7.25" hand between the cb and ob without touching either ball, then you'll likely have about 8 to 8.5 inches or more of space there. So it works well for a good estimate.
It is quite more complicated than I describe in this video. I say each angle is separated by "about 15 degrees", but if done as described, the actual angle between each cb placed side by side ends up being 12.5° because we are referencing center cb to center ob, not accounting for the slight angle change whenwe actually aim for the fractional aim point.
For the exact distance from cb center to ob center we actually have to split the 12.5° triangle into two 6.25° right triangles with the 90° perpendicular being midway between cb centers. The length of the hypotenuse would then be the required distance from each cb center to the center of the ob. It is 1.125"/sin(6.25°), which equals 10.3". But since this is from center to center, we subtract 2.25" (half of each ball) to get the actual distance between the balls where we can literally fit a hand. That puts it right at about 8".
I figured saying "8 to 9 inches" would be a sufficient length to make some pretty accurate estimations without getting into all the precise technicalities. 🤔
@@Poolology101 That is good stuff right there. Thank you for that insight
My game went from mmmmm... To DAMN BOY!! You dead on the aiming line!! Wonderful wonderful explanation and I'm looking forward to buying and reading your book.
Awesome! And thanks!
You'll be sorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry
Just FYI, "Pete" is a third rate harmonica player who hangs onto the coattails of real musicians hoping it will rub off on him. He also can't run 3 balls. I don't generally make a habit of telling the truth about sad old men, but this guy is bad news. His comments (and mine) should be deleted.
@@dwhite300 ok
I don't use partial ball hits for my aiming system but this intrigues me. It does seem like a very valid way to aim shots and probably just a matter of getting used to it.
Very nice. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for watching!
Thank You, Just started playing and Thanks to you did my first Draw Shot, all due to your explanation.
Excellent!
The Best explanation of angles that i have seen so far, Great :-)
Thank you so much!
My cut and bank shots have improved vastly, easy too visualize cut angles after a few weeks of practice. Highly recommended to anyone wanting to improve their game
Im learning a lot with these videos
I just bought the book and think it's very interesting. But I'm confused, and have a question for anyone (or Brian) who understands the system. For the side pockets there are two different zoning methods depending on being above or below the pocket. But the position of cue / object balls would just be the same above or below the pocket, as it's symmetrical - so why doesn't it just use one of the zoning methods both above and below the side pockets?
@@mhgbu the simple answer: It doesn't work that easily.
The system was created using circular patterns that reference not only the pockets, but also the rail diamonds. With corner pockets this works out well because each corner pocket has a rail on each side that corresponds to the circular pattern.
The side pockets, however, differ because the referenced rails are 180° apart, rather than 90°, like a corner pocket, so the circular pattern can only match up with one rail at a time.
Anytime the cb to ob centerline is pointing to the other rail (to the other side of the side pocket), that rail is not symmetrical. So the different ob position values had to be formulated to make the system work correctly.
@@Poolology101 Thanks for the explanation, but I'm still struggling to understand why the entire zone system from one side can't just be flipped depending on which side the balls are, and work like that? The pool table is 100% symmetrical after all.
very good video...really... but too complicated. My tip is to get used to missing shots and judging them better next time. Or simply imagine the cue going thru the white ball hitting the object ball right on the specific spot. It works quite good to me and I can keep my consistency while playing snooker or pool.
Thank you. And that's a good tip. But it's the old trial and error method, the "hit a million balls" method. It works, though very time consuming.
Consistency comes from repetition. When using trial and error methods, we don't get enough successful repetitions to program the brain very quickly. That's why we have to hit so many shots before we develop a good eye or feel for pocketing balls.
By reducing or eliminating most of the misses associated with trial and error, we can provide the brain with more consistent data, which helps develop shot making consistency at a much faster pace. Incorporating a little visual help like in this video, or better yet using a fractional aiming system like Poolology, provides a great shortcut to developing consistency, when compared to the good ol' trial and error methods.
Brian the book and the videos are GREAT! Would love to see you post a Side Pocket Poolology Video.
That was useful.Thanks for taking the time to do it👍👌
What is the distance in diamond between OB to CB that each full ball swing scales up to 15 degree ?
@@whitigir the measured distanced from center ob to center cb would be 8.5". So, on a small bar table it's roughly 1 diamond distance, and on a 9ft table it's a little less than 3/4 of a diamond (about 0.7 of a diamond distance).
When you pull the balls back and space them out so there is a ball space in between them how would you space them out if they were 3feet further back? Your hand distance away from the object ball can that help us out lining the balls out from 5or 6 feet away? I gots to know!
I am very intrested to know about the poolology numbers you were talking about! I went through the channel videos to but couldnt find a video with the appropriate title.
Only if you could point me in the right directions.
The details are in the book, Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming. It can be downloaded for less than $10 on Amazon or Lulu, as well as other digital book websites. Printed copies are around $20 or less and available on Amazon, Lulu, Books-a-Million, Barnes and Noble etc...
I am using clock system here to memorize, 6, 6.30,7,8,9 and vice versa
I like that!! Thanks. Will have some fun with the visuals
What is a quarter ball, half ball, etc
It's a way of describing the cb-ob relationship, as seen from the shooters perspective at the point when the cb strikes the ob. In other words, a halfball hit is when you send the cb to a point that results in half of the cb overlapping half of the ob. Aiming center cb to the outer edge of the ob creates this "halfball" cb-ob relationship. A 1/4 hit is when only 1/4 of the cb overlaps 1/4 of the ob.
Where can i buy your book? Thanks
playpoolbetter.com/
Excellent
Thanks!
Thank you it helped alot
You're welcome!
Hello.a question how do u know which way the throw will go? A little right English helps eliminate the throw is that correct.duz that work that way even wen u add sum speed?
Yes, using a little english on the opposite side of the cut angle (outside english) can reduce or eliminate any throw completely. This is referred to as "gearing" english because the cb rolls off of the ob like rotating gears.
Speed and cut angle affects throw also, as well as the motion of the cb when it hits the ob. Slow speed caused more throw due to the slightly longer contact time between the balls. Thin cut shots cause throw more than thicker cut shots. A sliding cb (stun shot) causes more throw, and a spinning cb (using back spin/draw, for example) causes less throw.
The most throw occurs near a halfball shot angle when shooting a stun shot (cb slides into the ob) at a medium soft speed.
@@Poolology101 thanks.thats good info wut exactly is a stun shot I thot it was a shot with no English at all?
@@robertgomez7229, a stun shot is when the cb slides into the ob. You are right....no english. But also no back spin or forward roll.
In the A zone object ball in 20 position and alinement value also 20 on the end rail what does that mean? Need help
If know the angle is n degrees, where do I hit the ball? Is there a second part to this video?
It's fractional aiming. The 15° intervals represent the basic fractional aim points. The first 15° from straight in is a 3/4 ball shot, meaning the cue ball should overlap 3/4 of the object ball when the two balls collide. Aim the center of the cue ball to halfway between the middle of the object ball and the outer edge of the object ball. The next basic shot is a 1/2 ball shot, a 30° cut, where half of the cue ball should overlap the object ball when they collide. Aim straight through center cue ball to the outer edge of the object ball. Here is a video showing some fractional aim points, the 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 aims..... th-cam.com/video/RjpWka6v3Ao/w-d-xo.html
Object ball position values for zone A. how come the 40 line goes to the value of 35 and the 50 goes to 45 or whatever it was. I really want to learn this but it’s a lot to remember.
The system was developed by using circles in association with the diamonds, not straight lines. Look at the chapter titled, "How it All Works".
its like going over the creek after water. if you can visualize all that you should be able to pick a spot on the object ball and hit it.
@@fries-with-lies not really, because the spot on the ball (contact point) is only the aim point for straight-in shots. On cut shots, the player has to estimate how far away from that spot they actually need to aim. It's not as easy as it sounds, or every player would be a great shot maker in no time. Lol. Plenty of players spend years guessing or estimating contact points and ghostballs, and they never become proficient shot makers. By incorporating a little fractional aiming visuals, a player gives their mind more visual data to help recognize cut shots.
Next time it sure would be thoughtful of you if you could make your lines straighter, I’m sure your students would appreciate that!
Will do. This video demonstrates how to approximate the angles. I could've done better with my approximations.
If im not mistaking if the OB and Alignment is the same or alignment is greater i must go thinner than a 1/8 shot
Not really. That's where the system breaks down, as the position and alignment values get closer together.
@@Poolology101 ya your right i got a little confuse because i went to try it out and made the shot with a 3/8 and a touch of outside english pivot went back and read your book over again and u did mention it cool deal thank you brian crist
Is it 8.3 inches from ghostball center?
Not sure why I said 8.3 inches was the exact measurement. Using the ghostball center gives a calculated distance of 8.6 inches. That's from ghostball center to cue ball center.
Regardless, I was actually referencing the ob itself, not the ghostball, because the ghostball is imaginary, and the ob is right there in plain sight. Still, the distance from the ob outer surface to the cb outer surface (the actual space between the balls) is 8.6".
Using the ob as a reference isn't the most accurate way to determine the exact shot angle, but we're really just trying to get an estimate by using what is visible.
@@Poolology101 thank you. I laid it out with a chalk pencil and figured it out. This is great for people like me trying to learn these angles visually. I can validate it without tools. I have "calibrated" my peace sign (like Dr. Dave says) to 2.4" for this. I can lay my hand down as you did for my distance, use my 2.4" peace sign to determine how many balls "wide" the angle is and quickly determine 15, 30, 30 thick, 30 thin, etc and use the fractional aiming much easier. This is AWESOME!!!!! Thank you for sharing.
@@fixitrod4969 excellent! The more you practice it the more you'll begin to recognize and fine shots as needed.
Sometimes I’m terrible at math but can remember others things so us there a cheat sheet? Like a list like zone A 50 zone through 30=?. I would have an easier time remembering a list like that rather than the calculation. I get thrown off on anything that doesn’t divide easily like 30 and fifteen for example
Like a chart
Brand do you use backhand English at all?
Eng
Yes, sometimes when using inside spin. Never when using outside spin. It takes a lot of playing to get a feel for it. But I find bhe works best with inside. About all cues play differently though, so getting to know your cue is very helpful.
Just wondering how come no backhand English with outside spin?
I just automatically account for it when aiming. Certain shots feel automatic like that when I'm using inside english, but not as many as when I use outside.
Nice video, too bad the audio fades due due to the fixed mic
Thanks. I plan on using a clip on mic for future videos.
BRIAN WHAT IS THE NAME OF THE BOOK AND WHERE COULD I PURCHASE. THANKS
The best price is probably on Amazon, available in small softcover or Ebook download. I think the ebook is less than $10 on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Poolology-Mastering-Aiming-Brian-Crist/dp/1532352263/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1545402299&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Poolology&dpPl=1&dpID=41eCPk8Q2mL&ref=plSrch
A spiral bound edition is available on Lulu at 15% off here: www.lulu.com/shop/brian-crist/poolology-mastering-the-art-of-aiming/paperback/product-23507406.html
Thank you!!
On 3:50 no way thats a 1/4 ball. I can see it from here its closer to 30-35 degrees
Its much closer to a half ball.
Of course it's not a 1/4 ball. The camera was in the way and I just placed the balls out there to show how it can be done. The spotted/measle cue ball should be the straight in shot, but anyone can see it's not. No biggie, just showing how to estimate angles, and the exact angle of any of these balls really has little to do with what I'm showing about how to estimate the angle based on hand distances.
@@Poolology101 ohhhh. Cool! 🌹
@@EynkiYoom honestly though, I should've just moved the camera so that everything looked right.🙄
Ok for pool. But does not work for baseball.
Informative👍🇳🇿
I keep waiting on someone to actually come up with something useful and that doesn't require a Doctorate in their system to become a mediocre shootist. So far, I've never seen a system that could even come close to just plain ole repetition and concentration as a base for turning loose the players mind to "free shooting/stroking".
I'mm soo desperate!!😂
is there an ebook available?
Yes, can be found at.... www.pocketingballs.com, or www.amazon.com/Poolology-Mastering-Aiming-Brian-Crist-ebook/dp/B06XC6WY9Q
My condolences to you
with Straight camera shotS
I will redo a few videos and add some more when I get my table moved. I'm in the process of moving out of one house and into another.
Arghhh..i can't get the ebook in the playstore because its not available in my countrie😭
Yolo Teh, where do you live?
Poolology Singapore😦
Poolology any ideas?
Try it here: www.lulu.com/shop/brian-crist/poolology-mastering-the-art-of-aiming/ebook/product-23507437.html
If you can't download the ebook, email me: bc@pocketingballs.com
Come on shoot it in lets see plus thats alot to go through just to shoot a simple cut shot
Lol....I'm simply showing a way to estimate the angle. It's not a video about shooting shots. It's a video about estimating angles.
Show how it’s done when the balls are 7 diamonds apart and 30+ degrees
No need, it works exactly as shown. Thanks for watching.
Zoology
Hmmm.... Zoology, Trigonometry, Biology, Astrology, Geometry...Poolology. Yes, these things all have a common bond - they are REAL and objective.
Poolology doesn't rely on a false belief that experience and subconscious thought aren't at work during the aiming process. In other words, there is no magical way to look at a shot and arrive at a guranteed aim line without first developing enough experience to recognize/confirm what you are looking at.
This applies to all aiming methods, especially the one that uses 3 main references and a left or right pivot. 🤣 Anyone who thinks the subconscious doesn't make it work, well, they're just ignorant when it comes to how the mind and body function together.
Thanks again for watching my video! Have a great new year and come back soon, or not.
His cue is moving around like a demented magicians magic wand. And each time he leans over the table his voice is not being picked up very well by the mike, all of which serve to distract ones attention from what he is trying to put across. Simple system being made more difficult imho.🙄
15-30-45 inside or outside pivot,all you need to know.this method is nonsense
😆
Thanks again for the coat tail riding of my videos. I don't mind providing you a platform to cheerlead for CTE. Lol. It says much more about my videos than it does CTE itself.
It's not easy to do.
Not many things are easy at first, but the more you do something the easier it becomes.
Hmmm....sure seems like a lot of calculating.
Yes, but in time you will be able to visualize the angles by just observing, OB position # and QB shot angle as a scale on the rail and visualize that % of angle to the OB: 1/2, 3/4, 1/4, 7/8 or whatever % of shot track. It works...
Not really he's explaining in detail but it's actually pretty basic to understand
Overly complicated. Just hit the spot on the object ball. Pools not that hard - "kiss"
See it and shoot it -- that's how simple it is. Yet millions of players can't run a rack of balls without missing. The reason is because pool is not that easy. It takes a lot of practice and knowledge to make it SEEM easy, but things aren't always what they seem to be.
@@Poolology101 thats only if you want to play pro speed. I dont play pro's I beat up on leauge players. League's and fargo are a hustlers best friend. Pools not that hard. Playing +800 fargo speed is seriously hard work. Any retard can play your speed.
Your just feeling your way around the table.you can never get over a 3-4 in APA with this nonsense
I don't play APA, but if I did I'd likely be a 7. In the VNEA I'm a 9 (10 is winning 100% of the games). I don't like the slop factor in APA. I like call-the-pocket format.
So, once again, you are so far out in left field that you're wasting your time here. But thanks for the laughs.