I learned how this works myself on a 24 inch mini tableThe way I learned was lining up the shot straight with bottom English and then add just a touch of gearingAnd I make a lot more balls that way
Of all the pool videos on you tube, I think you are the very best. You explain thing nice and easy. Not like dr Dave where you need a degree to understand just what the hell he is talking about. Just about every cut shot I try I always add just a pinch of outside english to avoid throw and it really has helped. I hope I said that so it makes sense.
Yes it makes perfect sense. And thanks for the compliment! Sometimes I talk too much in my videos, and I'm going to worn on that. But sometimes talk is neccessary so there are no questions or confusion about what I'm trying to show.
At 256 on the video you mention sliding the cue ball and you said we will talk about that on another video. What is the name of the other video? Ive been practicing that 5/8 shot making sure not to slide the cue ball into the object ball and it’s been falling in.
I can't find the other video. I remember recording a video showing how much throw occurs with stun (sliding cb). Between a 5/8 and a 3/8 hit it, stun can push the object ball several degrees off line. Set up a half ball shot with the cb about 2ft from the ob. Shoot it with an above center hit so the cue ball rolls into the ob. Use a medium-firm speed. Then shoot the same shot at the same speed using center ball to stun the cb so it slides into the ob. It'll miss the pocket by a couple of inches or more.
Thanks for the video. This sums up my technique... I look at every shot as how much of an ellipse I should see to pocket the ball... Then adjust aim by side spin....
Would you have made that shot using just the 5/8 without any extra English? Let me get this straight if you hit center ball where the cue ball is sliding then you need that extra tip of English. If you hit that shot with follow you would not need that extra tip of English because the cue ball would be rolling the whole way to the object ball so there would be no Friction. I’m I right or screwed up?
Exactly! Using follow or draw reduces the friction between the balls, so there is less collision-induced throw. Line up a dead halfball shot with the cb about a foot away from the ob. Shoot center ball and firm (stun shot). If the ob is farther than about 2ft from the pocket, it probably won't go in. Now set the same shot up again, but this time use draw or a rolling cue ball or some outside spin.
@@Poolology101 Aiming in 8ths is so difficult. I'm still using 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 ball lol. However I am playing on an english pool table so that's my excuse 😆 ( I live in the UK, we don't have American tables. Ours are like Mini Snooker tables so the balls are smaller)
@@brucecharlie8613 ....use your tip as a gage to fine tune the quarters. In other words, if a shot is a little thicker than a halfball, then aim so that 1/4 of your tip is aligned outside the ob edge while 3/4 of it is aligned inside the edge.
Brian, My cue is about 30 years old so it’s not an LD shaft. Can you look at Dupree Trickshots, How to aim pool shots using sidespin/ deflection. In the first minute and a half he puts on right spin, and the object ball goes to the right. In your video when I put on right spin it throws the object ball to the left. That is what is screwing me up his ob goes right and yours left. For the life of me,only you can make it clear to me just what is going on. Thank you Steve
I watched the Dupree video.. When he uses max side spin (without changing his aim line or compensating for the english), the cb squirts in the opposite direction of the spin he applies, which ends up cutting the ob, not throwing it. In other words, he loads the straight in shot up with max right spin, which causes the cb to squirt left and therfore cut the ob to the right.
thanks alot for the instruction; nice and concise. man, i think i have to go back to the basics and start from there. i'm getting WAY too ahead of myself trying to learn these more technical shots when i'm a beginner. that, and i've been watching way too many efren matches lol
Yeah, there's a lot to work on before it gets easier. Developing a consistent stroke and comfortable stance is most important. That gives you a good foundation to start building the rest of your game.
I use the spin transfer /throwing the object ball technique a lot or sometimes ghostball technique sometimes depends on how close the object ball is close to pocket...great video.,it helped my game a lot.
@@Poolology101 I noticed you use the Center of the cue ball tocsin to the aim points. It’s possible to use the edge as well isn’t it? I usually connect the edge of the cue ball based on the cut direction and the edge line to an aim point fraction on the object ball then pivot to Center cue ball to align on the shot line.
Here is my question,if you did not put a quarter tip of English on the ball it would still go in the pocket right? So why put on just a touch of English if it will go in the pocket without any English. Just another question I need to know. Thanks stephen
The ball would likely miss the pocket at the speed I shot it, due to a stun shot causing more ob throw. I used the outside spin to offset the excess throw.
After the shot at 4:30, you say adding right hand spin forced the cue ball to the right, but wouldn't the cue ball squirt left from deflection? I see how the right spin pushes the object ball left, but don't you need to adjust aim for left deflection of cue ball?
With a low-deflection shaft and just a slightly off-center hit (like the 1/2 of right spin I use in the video), the cue ball doesn't squirt much. Instead of squirting/deflecting to the left, it goes straighter along the stroke line of the cue stick.
Your 5/8 shot where would you aim your cue tip if you needed 1 tip of English?would you aim the tip with the 1 tip of English at the 5/8 mark or where?
For the shot in the video if I use 1 tip of outside english (left spin) the tip would be pointed about to the left edge of the ob. For one tip of inside english (right spin) the tip would be pointed at the 3/4 aim on the ob. And this is using a normal medium speed. The exact aim really depends on the speed of the stroke. It's something that ends up relying on experience.
It's possible there's more going on here depending on how the shift is being performed where you're moving out for the tip of english. Back hand english possibly. Dr Dave has an excellent video on it.
Yes, I am using backhand english. That's a good poont. Hitting off-center left on the cb definitely causes it to squirt right, which would create a thicker hit. But the spin counters this action and throws the object ball more to the right regardless of squirt. I spin balls in all the time, like aiming thick with a ton of outside spin. It's a good shot to leatn. I think Efren and Earl are probably two of the best when it comes to spinning balls in.
What can you tell me about gearing outside spin? I guess if you hit the cue ball in a certain spot, doc says 40% from the line of centers on a cut shot there will be no throw. I’m just trying to figure out where is correct spot on the cue ball to Get rid of throw.
Gearing is when the speed and rotation of the cb is just enough to allow the cb to "roll" off the surface of the ob, rather than spin or slide off of it. But it's not something that is thought about or used very often, at least not consciously or intentionally. Hitting that exact 40% requires developing a good feel for doing it, and honestly just using a little outside spin works well enough to minimize or offset throw just fine. Normally, excessive throw or skidding isn't an issue unless the ball condition is bad (dirty or dull).
So if I have a 5\8 cut shot or even a 3/4 shot I should go ahead a add just a small pinch of English to avoid throw. And when it greater than a 1/2 add more English maybe a half or more. I am always wondering if that’s what I should do on all of my shots
No. You shouldn't be concerned about throw unless you are drilling the balls firm, shooting hard, which causes the cb to slide into the ob instead of roll into it. English should be used only when you need it, like if you need the cb to go a wider or narrower or faster off the rail for position on the next shot. Or if you know you're shooting a stun shot you'll have to aim a little thinner or use a little outside spin to offset the excessive throw caused by the stun.
i always try to use some,, because i hate when a shot misses / squirts out the wrong way, so unless i cant use any side for the shot or need the other side English i use some.
Your mezz cue is it the wx900 wx700 or the wx70030? Is it just the shaft or the whole stick? I tried a few carbon fiber sticks today I think it was a 11.9 it was very skinny compared to my 13.0. I think I could get used to the 12.5 but the 11.9 I just don’t know. Why don’t you play with a carbon fiber just curious.thanks your friend steve
My Mezz cue is from back before they started using the swirly "M" logo. It originally came with a WD-700 shaft. Instead of the fancy "M" logo it was just straight lettering...."MEZZ". I sold that shaft and bought a WX-700 and a WX-900. They play the same. I've tried a couple of carbon shafts and didn't notice much difference compared to my Mezz shafts. I love the hit of my Mezz, the way it feels.
I’m going to buy my cousin your ebook or the paperback poolology book. he just plays at pool halls does not own a table. Which is the one to buy in your opinion? Do they both give the exact information and diagrams? Seems like most people buy the book, what do you recommend?
That might make it hard to play decent position. The best thing to do is to not even think about adding any spin unless you need it. Throw isn't the main reason we miss balls. It's only excessive on stun shots.
Your back handgrip with your forefinger and thumb very light grip pressure, am I correct? Reason why I am asking is because I have a small twist in my stroke and it’s making me miss long shots. What to do, it just started 2 days ago.
It should be a light grip, not super light or too loose, just tight enough to control the stroke of the cue. Keep in mind that it's the cue, not your grip hand, that does the work of hitting the cue ball. The grip hand is just there to hold the cue, line it up for the shot, and move it back and forth in the stroke. On your final stroke, pull the cue stick back normally and then push it forward through the cue ball, almost like tossing it into the cb but you still have the cue in your hand. Allow the cue to move freely without trying to control it so much with your grip hand. The grip hand is just there to support the cue while moving it back and forth. That's its only job. Try not to let it take control of the actual hit on the cue ball. This is the cue stick's job, and all the grip hand has to do is keep the cue stick moving nice and free. When your grip hand tries to control too much, the muscles tense up. This muscle tension interferes with the free flowing movement of the cue stick and you miss the shot. Practice stroking thr cue very very slowly, with deliberate effort to keep your wrist straight, no twisting. You have to program your brain to recognize how the stroke should feel.
It varies, depending on speed and spin and the amount of deflection the cue shaft has. That's what makes it such an individual feel thing and not so much a standardized thing that works the same way for every player.
Your a great teacher! Do you sometimes use backhand English? If you do, do you change the length of the shaft depending on the length of a shot. Dr.Dave’s stuff.
I use the backhand english method sometimes. But if it's extreme/maximum spin, I'll just use it to find the adjusted aim line, then I stand back up and come into the shot on that line, rather than have my stroke not aligned with my feet and body.
It depends on the shot. Sometimes I position my bridgehand in line with the english, parallel to the center cb aim line. Other times I line up straight through center cue ball, then pivot my backhand slightly left or right to change the tip position on the cue ball. This is called Backhand English (BHE), which is what I'm doing in this video. I suggest trying both methods of applying english (parallel and BHE) to figure out what works best with your cue. Shoot a straight in shot about 3ft from a pocket. Line straight up with a center cb hit, then apply left or right spin using the backhand english method. Then set the shot up again and line up offset to the straight in aim in order to apply left or right english (parallel to a center cb hit) and shoot it that way. See which method gives you the most accurate result.
@@Poolology101 I watched Dr Dave explain BHE vs FHE and if I remember correctly, he recommended BHE for higher velocity shots (to cancel the squirt effect) and FHE for slow shots where squirt is less likely. I find that this works well for me, and the amount of BHE pivot can be tuned to the distance of the shot and the velocity of the stroke, allowing you to aim more naturally without compensation for squirt, which can be huge on a high velocity full length shot. That said, you have to find a method that feels natural and intuitive to you as the fine author of this video points out.
Thanks for sharing. I sometimes have difficulty aiming when using inside english on certain shots, but outside english came pretty natural. Out of curiosity, would you care to share what cue and tip you use? I recently started playing after 16-17 years and wondering what are the preferred tips and cues for advanced and pro players these days.
I use a Kamui medium hard. There's really no "preferred" tip based on skill level. A lot of great players like hard tips, and just as many prefer softer tips. I like the harder tip because it lasts longer and retains its shape better than a soft tip.
I take back what I said, about talking to much. I’ve learned a ton from you. that shot would it of gone in the right corner pocket with just a 5/8 shot. Why did you think it needed a little extra English? This is what screws me up sometimes. Another thing it could be is my vertical center is off. What your thoughts?
If I would've shot it with an above center hit, rolling the cue ball into the object ball, I would not have needed to use any english. I would've just aimed at the 5/8 and shot it. The english was used to offset the throw that occurs when you shoot firm and stun the cue ball. A sliding cue ball (stunned cue ball) will shove the object a few degrees off line, and using outside english can reduce or eliminate that shove action. If your vertical center is off, it won't cause you to miss shots unless you're hitting stun shots without realizing it. I mean, striking the cb a little higher or lower than you think will usually result in weak draw shots and follow shots, but accidentally hitting a little left or right of that vertical center line will result in a lot of missed shots.
A lot of players think they're hitting below center ball on their draw shots, because from their perspective the cue tip looks low. But really they are hitting center ball or slightly below center ball, and that's why they have weak draw shots.
Nice vid. Pretty sure you're using back hand english to change cut angle not using SIT to pocket the ball at 5/8 cut angle. A touch of outside should undercut the ball at that angle by increasing CIT as far as I'm aware.
Yes, I am using backhand english. But the cut angle is still the same because the balls and their relation to the pocket doesn't change. Even though my backhand pivot aims the cue tip left of my initial aim point, the cb squirts right and ends up hitting my intended aim line. CIT on a firm hit is pushing this shot thick, to the left a bit. The outside spin reduces CIT (the cb spins off the ob instead of pushing it off line). If I shot this firm with no outside, aiming for a 5/8, the ball would probably miss just left of the pocket. If I shot it soft with outside spin the english would throw the ob to the right of the pocket, also probably missing the pocket.
I'm just nit picking and again great vids. However, at cut angles like this, a small amount of outside counterintuitively actually increases CIT. It's minute as far as I understand and if it helps feel the shot then it's all good.
Interesting, though I've never heard of nor witnessed outside spin increasing collision-induced throw at any shot angle. The amount of friction between the balls will always be less when using outside spin, especially on thicker shots (1/2 ball or thicker), so the throw should be decreased. On thin cuts the speed of the shot has more influence on CIT than any spin. Nothing wrong with nitpicking....that's often how things are learned. For anyone reading this exchange, I suggest they try it out for themselves, shoot a few shots with no spin then shoot the same shots using outside spin. Note the difference where the object ball goes. It may be so fine that you can't notice any difference.
With larger cut angles, inside english (IE) increases the relative surface speed between the balls and reduces the amount of friction and the amount of throw. For a large cut angle, a small amount of OE can reduce (but not reverse) the surface speed some resulting in more friction and more throw. _---FROM DR. DAVE SITE I'm not sure I completely believe or not because my experience seems to be different but maybe it's just years of subconscious adjusting? Hard to argue with physics and Dr.Dave.
Brian I’m getting screwed up again. 32 seconds on this video we have a 5/8 shot so your saying with 1 tip of left english we would be aiming for a 3/8 shot? What I don’t get is if it’s a 5/8 shot and we aim the the 3/8 spot we would over cut the shot. You should make a video on the way you aim with English with deflection and spin induced throw and all that stuff. I’ve been practicing aiming with 1 tip of inside and outside English and I don’t compensate the correct amount for deflection. Only you can make me understand with a new video! Your friend steve
Keep this mind... Let's say we have a dead 1/2 ball shot. In other words, the cb to ob relationship needed to send the ob to the pocket is a half ball overlap. If aiming through the vertical centerline of the cb, your tip should be lined up to the edge of the ob. Now, if you decide to use a tip of inside english, your tip will no longer be lined up through the vertical centerline of the cb to the edge of the ob. But the cb-ob relationship needed to pocket the ball is still the same, a half ball overlap. But your aim (when lining the cue tip through the cb to the ob) is no longer a 1/2 ball aim. You might be aiming one tip left of the center cb to the 3/4 aim point on the ob. That's the aim line, the line that ensures the cb ends up overlapping half of the ob.
My last question. A spot shot it’s a 1/2 ball shot, but my 1/2 ball aim does not cut the object ball enough to go in the pocket, but when I add 1 tip of right side spin they go in the pocket. I thinking to myself there not falling in the pocket because of throw, but when you shoot the shot with 1/2 ball aim they drop why do I need English to make mine?? Thanks I’ll be watching for your answer. Steve
A spot shot from the "kitchen" (behind the line) is a halfball aim if the cb is about 6 or 7 inches off the side rail and near the headstring (kitchen line).
@@Poolology101 i know. I took 10 years off i won 4 k in 3 weeks and then lost 5k in one day. Now i cant stop throwing balls and have no idea where i really hit them. I just started back a month ago and miss cue every 3rd shot and cannot control the cue ball. But i needed to pick it up again as a health hobby to keep my mind off the madness of a divorce. But the feeling of firing a few straight shots in has me hooked once again. I gotta build from the ground up. Thx for the vids
The workmanship is outstanding, especially considering the price point. I've had a Predator, an OB and a McDermott all around the $450 mark and the Mezz quality blows them all away.
Here is what is screwing me up, I’m doing great with the shot in this video, add a little outside left to throw the object ball in the pocket. What’s screwing me up is deflection like how come when I put outside left English on the cue ball why doesn’t the cue ball make contact on the right side of the object ball. Somewhere I’m getting really confused. I hope you understand my question. Steve
Does your cue have a low deflection shaft? The cb squirts less with a LD shaft. English is a funny thing... Just the right amount causes minimal cb deflection and reduces collision-induced throw on the ob. A small amount of english has a gearing effect when the cb strikes the ob. Basically the cb rolls off the ob and transfers a tiny bit of spin to the ob. If you use a full tip or more of english the cb will squirt more. The more english (side spin) you use, the more the cb squirts sideways. But more english doesn't necessarily spin the ob more (if any more) than when using a half tip or less of english.
In this example I'm using back hand english (keeping my bridgehand in place and slightly moving/pivoting my cue with my grip hand to apply the side spin). This looks like I'm cutting the ball thinner than my aim point, but the cb deflects just enough to still contact the ball where I intend. I could do the same shot with front hand english (moving my entire cue over, parallel to the aim line, using the same aim point reference). The cb would still end up where it needs to be to pocket the ball. I use both ways for applying english, and it depends on the shot. You have to learn what works best with your specific cue, along with the speed you're using and distance between the balls. Typically, backhand english works well for most shots.
@@Poolology101 Ok, that's what I thought but wasn't sure. Your video is quite good and what I took out of it more than anything is that applying spin to the cue ball is tricky business, especially when the object ball is far from the intended pocket. But then again it's not just spin that is tricky business, the whole damn game is tricky business and I think that's what makes the game so magical. If it was easy there wouldn't be the attraction to it, at least for me.
@@BladeRunner-td8be , I agree 100%! Pool is damned tricky, but everytime something new is discovered, learned, or mastered, we see just how magical it can be. I feel sorry for players that don't feel this way, that don't appreciate the beauty and wonderment of the game. They are missing out, and they'll probably never become much of a pool player.
All civil comments are welcome -- no profanity/vulgarity. I will delete those comments. If you don't like the video, give it a thumbs down. So far the video has 85% thumbs up and 15% thumbs down.
Adam Jacoby, I am referring to fractional shots, as described in the book titled, Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming. You can read more about it here: www.pocketingballs.com
Useful concepts but to be complete he needs to include an explanation of what a 5/8 ths and a 7/8 ths aim on the object ball refers to so this can be a stand alone video without need of another video to explain the basic ball aiming technique.
Com-On, If we're watching this video we already know what English is & We Also know what 1/2 tip compared to 1/4 tip Ect..We're watching to see Id we can pick something up for you we may not know So dont waste Sorry Much Time Explaining this, Move on to the Action you want to show..I almost turned video off because I like so many others dont need the 1st few mins of this video..Next time gets in to it so not to bore us to death with everything anybody whos gona use English to Pocket Balls already knows for long time..Just some criticism I thinking would be helpful...
He goes through this whole confusing explanation, then in the end just hits the spot to make the ball. I dont see the point. Learn to aim small, you will miss small. I dont use a system, I feel the shot.
Most players just "feel" the shots, recognize them through experience. No experience = no feel. The problem is, you can't teach someone how to "feel" the shots. That is something one develops through practice. The Poolology system provides a shortcut to help players develop a good feel for pocketing balls.
@@Poolology101 I get what your saying and I know SVB uses a system like this however, I could never ever teach 1/4 ball hit to a female, there not machanical they just dont get it. If I put a laser light on the cue ball and 1 on the object ball, they get it. Your systems for better players not newbee's. I use it on spot shots only. It works great for that. The rest is 30 years of playing time and feel.
For contact point aiming (where you try to keep the ob contact point in sight and then aim your stroke or center cb an estimated distance away from that point), the laser spot on the ob would work. But it only shows the contact point, so the player still has to estimate how far to offset the stroke/aim in order to have the cb contact that laser spot. For fractional aiming (where the player aims straight at a reference point on the ob or just outside the edge of the ob), the laser only works for between 0 and 30 degrees. Any shot thinner than a halfball requires the player to estimate how far out from the ob edge they need to aim. 30 years of regularly playing makes this easier to do consistently. My videos and book are simply designed to help players get there faster without having to hit a million balls or play every day for a few years. The method is intended to help players develop exactly what you suggest -- a feel, to just see it and do it, free of any system type clutter. At that point the system itself is just another tool, another nugget that can be used if needed.
Yes, I've seen the "splitting the difference" lessons. The guy appears to be a good player, but I found too many inconsistencies and contradictory lessons with what he is showing. He demonstrates pivoting to apply side spin on the cue ball, as if he is spinning them in, then he states he is hitting the center axis of the ball each time with no spin. It's interesting, but test it on several shots and determine if it works for you.
You are correct. But when looking at a sphere from any angle or perspective, your brain sees a circle, and focusing on the center vertical axis of that circle (as shown on this cue ball) is not difficult. The circle has a visual center point, and we align the cue stick perpendicular to this center point, straight through the cue ball to a specific point on the object ball, which to your brain is just another 2D circle.
I follow you all the way to the point where you say you might be aiming 1 tip left of center cb to the 3/4 point object ball that difference between 1 tip and 3/4. I thought we need to keep the difference to a 1/2 not a difference of a 1/4. It’s ok, you don’t have to answer this part, I’ll just never add 1 tip of English to the shot.
thr33 3y3 So were you were born a good player or did you have to start at the beginning just like everyone else? Your last name wouldn't be DICK by any chance?
you put in the time, you'll get there. even better if you own a table because then it's going to be a pretty penny to go out to pool halls every week... at least it is in my town. wish they had a membership or something.
He’s cutting the object ball into 1/8’s when it really only needs to be cut into 1/4’s. The English isn’t even necessary. Any of those shots he made could have been made using 3/4 or 1/2 ball hits with zero English.
@@chuck_thebeard can't believe I missed this comment. You are wrong. Quarter fractional aim points only cover a handful of shot angles. I ball that needs a 22° cut angle (5/8 aim) will not hit the pocket if you aim for a 3/4. It will not hit the pocket if you aim for a 1/2. Your fractional aiming lesson is old school traditional fractional aiming, which involves guesswork, a lot of trial and error. Poolology is a fractional system that removes the guesswork. Instead of guessing or estimating an aim line, the system provides an aim line. It's a world of difference from the traditional trial and error fractional aiming method. The basic quarters can be accurate enough to work on any shot within a diamond or so from the pocket. Beyond that distance the fractional options must be tightened up into 8ths or smaller in order to be accurate enough to hit the pocket. Example: place an ob 6" out from a pocket and line the cb up so it's a straight in shot. You can aim for a 3/4 hit and still make the ball. Now move the ob out another 10" and set up a straight in shot. From here aiming for a 3/4 will not pocket the ball. On an easy Valley barbox it might, but on the table used in this video there's no way any of the shots I showed will go by simply aiming for the nearest quarter fractional aim, especially when the ob is 7 or 8 ft from the pocket.
If you don't find it helpful it's because you aren't at that skill level yet to recognize when a shot either needs to be slightly overcut or englished in to offset the throw that will occur.
I learned how this works myself on a 24 inch mini tableThe way I learned was lining up the shot straight with bottom English and then add just a touch of gearingAnd I make a lot more balls that way
I will keep checking back to this page daily. Thanks steve
Of all the pool videos on you tube, I think you are the very best. You explain thing nice and easy. Not like dr Dave where you need a degree to understand just what the hell he is talking about. Just about every cut shot I try I always add just a pinch of outside english to avoid throw and it really has helped. I hope I said that so it makes sense.
Yes it makes perfect sense. And thanks for the compliment! Sometimes I talk too much in my videos, and I'm going to worn on that. But sometimes talk is neccessary so there are no questions or confusion about what I'm trying to show.
I use the hit and pray technique a lot
A lot of players do! Lol. But if you play enough that can eventually become accurate.
Poke and hope!
It's like magic all of the times the ball makes the pocket
Great stuff Brian 👍🏻
At 256 on the video you mention sliding the cue ball and you said we will talk about that on another video. What is the name of the other video? Ive been practicing that 5/8 shot making sure not to slide the cue ball into the object ball and it’s been falling in.
I can't find the other video. I remember recording a video showing how much throw occurs with stun (sliding cb). Between a 5/8 and a 3/8 hit it, stun can push the object ball several degrees off line.
Set up a half ball shot with the cb about 2ft from the ob. Shoot it with an above center hit so the cue ball rolls into the ob. Use a medium-firm speed. Then shoot the same shot at the same speed using center ball to stun the cb so it slides into the ob. It'll miss the pocket by a couple of inches or more.
Thanks for the video. This sums up my technique... I look at every shot as how much of an ellipse I should see to pocket the ball... Then adjust aim by side spin....
Nice eye view. Thank you and look forward to seeing more.
Would you have made that shot using just the 5/8 without any extra English? Let me get this straight if you hit center ball where the cue ball is sliding then you need that extra tip of English. If you hit that shot with follow you would not need that extra tip of English because the cue ball would be rolling the whole way to the object ball so there would be no Friction. I’m I right or screwed up?
Exactly! Using follow or draw reduces the friction between the balls, so there is less collision-induced throw. Line up a dead halfball shot with the cb about a foot away from the ob. Shoot center ball and firm (stun shot). If the ob is farther than about 2ft from the pocket, it probably won't go in. Now set the same shot up again, but this time use draw or a rolling cue ball or some outside spin.
Nice little addition to fractional aiming system. Was wondering how to aim between the different fractions
Thanks!
@@Poolology101 Aiming in 8ths is so difficult. I'm still using 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 ball lol. However I am playing on an english pool table so that's my excuse 😆 ( I live in the UK, we don't have American tables. Ours are like Mini Snooker tables so the balls are smaller)
@@brucecharlie8613 ....use your tip as a gage to fine tune the quarters. In other words, if a shot is a little thicker than a halfball, then aim so that 1/4 of your tip is aligned outside the ob edge while 3/4 of it is aligned inside the edge.
@@Poolology101 I'm gonna try that today cheers budd. And thanks for replying it makes your channel a million times better than other channels.
Brian, My cue is about 30 years old so it’s not an LD shaft. Can you look at Dupree Trickshots, How to aim pool shots using sidespin/ deflection. In the first minute and a half he puts on right spin, and the object ball goes to the right. In your video when I put on right spin it throws the object ball to the left. That is what is screwing me up his ob goes right and yours left. For the life of me,only you can make it clear to me just what is going on. Thank you Steve
I watched the Dupree video.. When he uses max side spin (without changing his aim line or compensating for the english), the cb squirts in the opposite direction of the spin he applies, which ends up cutting the ob, not throwing it. In other words, he loads the straight in shot up with max right spin, which causes the cb to squirt left and therfore cut the ob to the right.
thanks alot for the instruction; nice and concise. man, i think i have to go back to the basics and start from there. i'm getting WAY too ahead of myself trying to learn these more technical shots when i'm a beginner. that, and i've been watching way too many efren matches lol
Yeah, there's a lot to work on before it gets easier. Developing a consistent stroke and comfortable stance is most important. That gives you a good foundation to start building the rest of your game.
I was looking for this.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to explain. It was helpful.
I use the spin transfer /throwing the object ball technique a lot or sometimes ghostball technique sometimes depends on how close the object ball is close to pocket...great video.,it helped my game a lot.
Eric Kort ... thanks. Glad I could help!
@@Poolology101 I noticed you use the Center of the cue ball tocsin to the aim points. It’s possible to use the edge as well isn’t it? I usually connect the edge of the cue ball based on the cut direction and the edge line to an aim point fraction on the object ball then pivot to Center cue ball to align on the shot line.
Here is my question,if you did not put a quarter tip of English on the ball it would still go in the pocket right? So why put on just a touch of English if it will go in the pocket without any English. Just another question I need to know. Thanks stephen
The ball would likely miss the pocket at the speed I shot it, due to a stun shot causing more ob throw. I used the outside spin to offset the excess throw.
After the shot at 4:30, you say adding right hand spin forced the cue ball to the right, but wouldn't the cue ball squirt left from deflection? I see how the right spin pushes the object ball left, but don't you need to adjust aim for left deflection of cue ball?
With a low-deflection shaft and just a slightly off-center hit (like the 1/2 of right spin I use in the video), the cue ball doesn't squirt much. Instead of squirting/deflecting to the left, it goes straighter along the stroke line of the cue stick.
Point/visualise CB directly at contact point as for an undercut aim. Pivot left or right...goes right in.
Your 5/8 shot where would you aim your cue tip if you needed 1 tip of English?would you aim the tip with the 1 tip of English at the 5/8 mark or where?
For the shot in the video if I use 1 tip of outside english (left spin) the tip would be pointed about to the left edge of the ob. For one tip of inside english (right spin) the tip would be pointed at the 3/4 aim on the ob. And this is using a normal medium speed. The exact aim really depends on the speed of the stroke. It's something that ends up relying on experience.
It's possible there's more going on here depending on how the shift is being performed where you're moving out for the tip of english. Back hand english possibly. Dr Dave has an excellent video on it.
Yes, I am using backhand english. That's a good poont. Hitting off-center left on the cb definitely causes it to squirt right, which would create a thicker hit. But the spin counters this action and throws the object ball more to the right regardless of squirt.
I spin balls in all the time, like aiming thick with a ton of outside spin. It's a good shot to leatn. I think Efren and Earl are probably two of the best when it comes to spinning balls in.
What can you tell me about gearing outside spin? I guess if you hit the cue ball in a certain spot, doc says 40% from the line of centers on a cut shot there will be no throw. I’m just trying to figure out where is correct spot on the cue ball to Get rid of throw.
Gearing is when the speed and rotation of the cb is just enough to allow the cb to "roll" off the surface of the ob, rather than spin or slide off of it. But it's not something that is thought about or used very often, at least not consciously or intentionally. Hitting that exact 40% requires developing a good feel for doing it, and honestly just using a little outside spin works well enough to minimize or offset throw just fine. Normally, excessive throw or skidding isn't an issue unless the ball condition is bad (dirty or dull).
Good videos out because no one else is talking about this
Thanks!
So if I have a 5\8 cut shot or even a 3/4 shot I should go ahead a add just a small pinch of English to avoid throw. And when it greater than a 1/2 add more English maybe a half or more. I am always wondering if that’s what I should do on all of my shots
No. You shouldn't be concerned about throw unless you are drilling the balls firm, shooting hard, which causes the cb to slide into the ob instead of roll into it. English should be used only when you need it, like if you need the cb to go a wider or narrower or faster off the rail for position on the next shot. Or if you know you're shooting a stun shot you'll have to aim a little thinner or use a little outside spin to offset the excessive throw caused by the stun.
Nice looking table!!
James de Mesa, thanks. It's a 1924 Brunswick Madison. I extended the slate at the corner pockets because they were originally sloped.
i always try to use some,, because i hate when a shot misses / squirts out the wrong way, so unless i cant use any side for the shot or need the other side English i use some.
Your mezz cue is it the wx900 wx700 or the wx70030? Is it just the shaft or the whole stick? I tried a few carbon fiber sticks today I think it was a 11.9 it was very skinny compared to my 13.0. I think I could get used to the 12.5 but the 11.9 I just don’t know. Why don’t you play with a carbon fiber just curious.thanks your friend steve
My Mezz cue is from back before they started using the swirly "M" logo. It originally came with a WD-700 shaft. Instead of the fancy "M" logo it was just straight lettering...."MEZZ".
I sold that shaft and bought a WX-700 and a WX-900. They play the same.
I've tried a couple of carbon shafts and didn't notice much difference compared to my Mezz shafts. I love the hit of my Mezz, the way it feels.
I’m going to buy my cousin your ebook or the paperback poolology book. he just plays at pool halls does not own a table. Which is the one to buy in your opinion? Do they both give the exact information and diagrams? Seems like most people buy the book, what do you recommend?
Both editions are the same.
Ok, so if the shot I see on the table is a 1/2 ball shot, I should shoot it as a 3/8 shot if I’m hitting center cue ball, is that right?
Only if you shoot it so firm that the cue ball slides into the ob. If it's rolling into the ob then a 1/2 ball shot is a 1/2 ball aim.
Ghosts, English, Spanish and other stuff don't help me bro, I just use experience lol
What tip do you use? Soft, hard and the name. I ask this question already but don’t remember where to look. Thanks stephen
I play with a Zan tip, super soft.
Thanks for the answer. Is it alright to add just a pitch of outside English on all my cut shots? Like 1/8 of a tip?
That might make it hard to play decent position. The best thing to do is to not even think about adding any spin unless you need it. Throw isn't the main reason we miss balls. It's only excessive on stun shots.
Thanks Brian👍🇳🇿
Your back handgrip with your forefinger and thumb very light grip pressure, am I correct? Reason why I am asking is because I have a small twist in my stroke and it’s making me miss long shots. What to do, it just started 2 days ago.
It should be a light grip, not super light or too loose, just tight enough to control the stroke of the cue. Keep in mind that it's the cue, not your grip hand, that does the work of hitting the cue ball. The grip hand is just there to hold the cue, line it up for the shot, and move it back and forth in the stroke. On your final stroke, pull the cue stick back normally and then push it forward through the cue ball, almost like tossing it into the cb but you still have the cue in your hand. Allow the cue to move freely without trying to control it so much with your grip hand. The grip hand is just there to support the cue while moving it back and forth. That's its only job. Try not to let it take control of the actual hit on the cue ball. This is the cue stick's job, and all the grip hand has to do is keep the cue stick moving nice and free. When your grip hand tries to control too much, the muscles tense up. This muscle tension interferes with the free flowing movement of the cue stick and you miss the shot.
Practice stroking thr cue very very slowly, with deliberate effort to keep your wrist straight, no twisting. You have to program your brain to recognize how the stroke should feel.
What is the title of your other video that shows making more cut shots, but using a touch of spin. Thanks stephen
Not sure. There's this one...
th-cam.com/video/CknEpbnsxDE/w-d-xo.html
That is a nice song that you have it looks like a shown. It looks like you have the co x13 it looks nice I could be wrong
The cue is a Mezz.
Có bản dịch tiếng việt nam không anh
Is the throw greater than deflection ?
It varies, depending on speed and spin and the amount of deflection the cue shaft has. That's what makes it such an individual feel thing and not so much a standardized thing that works the same way for every player.
what is the brand and the model of the cue stick you are using here sir? thanks
It's a Mezz 401. I've had it for years. Now I think it's called a Z401. Excellent cue -- super quality, great feel.
Is this back hand or front hand English?
I am using back hand english.
Your a great teacher! Do you sometimes use backhand English? If you do, do you change the length of the shaft depending on the length of a shot. Dr.Dave’s stuff.
I use the backhand english method sometimes. But if it's extreme/maximum spin, I'll just use it to find the adjusted aim line, then I stand back up and come into the shot on that line, rather than have my stroke not aligned with my feet and body.
Amazing, all three shots went in without editing, in a duration of 8 minutes, which is too long to repeat.
Thanks!
Question: do I slide my bridge to meet the spot on the cue ball I'm going to strike or do I swivel the stick alone??? Seems you're swiveling
I like to slide my bridge instead of swivel the back of the stick as it is more easy to judge deviation according to shot speed
It depends on the shot. Sometimes I position my bridgehand in line with the english, parallel to the center cb aim line. Other times I line up straight through center cue ball, then pivot my backhand slightly left or right to change the tip position on the cue ball. This is called Backhand English (BHE), which is what I'm doing in this video. I suggest trying both methods of applying english (parallel and BHE) to figure out what works best with your cue. Shoot a straight in shot about 3ft from a pocket. Line straight up with a center cb hit, then apply left or right spin using the backhand english method. Then set the shot up again and line up offset to the straight in aim in order to apply left or right english (parallel to a center cb hit) and shoot it that way. See which method gives you the most accurate result.
@@Poolology101 I watched Dr Dave explain BHE vs FHE and if I remember correctly, he recommended BHE for higher velocity shots (to cancel the squirt effect) and FHE for slow shots where squirt is less likely. I find that this works well for me, and the amount of BHE pivot can be tuned to the distance of the shot and the velocity of the stroke, allowing you to aim more naturally without compensation for squirt, which can be huge on a high velocity full length shot. That said, you have to find a method that feels natural and intuitive to you as the fine author of this video points out.
Thanks for sharing. I sometimes have difficulty aiming when using inside english on certain shots, but outside english came pretty natural. Out of curiosity, would you care to share what cue and tip you use? I recently started playing after 16-17 years and wondering what are the preferred tips and cues for advanced and pro players these days.
I use a Kamui medium hard. There's really no "preferred" tip based on skill level. A lot of great players like hard tips, and just as many prefer softer tips. I like the harder tip because it lasts longer and retains its shape better than a soft tip.
@@Poolology101 thanks for the info and advice. Looking forward to watching your other videos. Peace and success
I take back what I said, about talking to much. I’ve learned a ton from you. that shot would it of gone in the right corner pocket with just a 5/8 shot. Why did you think it needed a little extra English? This is what screws me up sometimes. Another thing it could be is my vertical center is off. What your thoughts?
If I would've shot it with an above center hit, rolling the cue ball into the object ball, I would not have needed to use any english. I would've just aimed at the 5/8 and shot it. The english was used to offset the throw that occurs when you shoot firm and stun the cue ball. A sliding cue ball (stunned cue ball) will shove the object a few degrees off line, and using outside english can reduce or eliminate that shove action.
If your vertical center is off, it won't cause you to miss shots unless you're hitting stun shots without realizing it. I mean, striking the cb a little higher or lower than you think will usually result in weak draw shots and follow shots, but accidentally hitting a little left or right of that vertical center line will result in a lot of missed shots.
A lot of players think they're hitting below center ball on their draw shots, because from their perspective the cue tip looks low. But really they are hitting center ball or slightly below center ball, and that's why they have weak draw shots.
Nice vid. Pretty sure you're using back hand english to change cut angle not using SIT to pocket the ball at 5/8 cut angle. A touch of outside should undercut the ball at that angle by increasing CIT as far as I'm aware.
Yes, I am using backhand english. But the cut angle is still the same because the balls and their relation to the pocket doesn't change. Even though my backhand pivot aims the cue tip left of my initial aim point, the cb squirts right and ends up hitting my intended aim line.
CIT on a firm hit is pushing this shot thick, to the left a bit. The outside spin reduces CIT (the cb spins off the ob instead of pushing it off line). If I shot this firm with no outside, aiming for a 5/8, the ball would probably miss just left of the pocket. If I shot it soft with outside spin the english would throw the ob to the right of the pocket, also probably missing the pocket.
I'm just nit picking and again great vids. However, at cut angles like this, a small amount of outside counterintuitively actually increases CIT. It's minute as far as I understand and if it helps feel the shot then it's all good.
Interesting, though I've never heard of nor witnessed outside spin increasing collision-induced throw at any shot angle. The amount of friction between the balls will always be less when using outside spin, especially on thicker shots (1/2 ball or thicker), so the throw should be decreased. On thin cuts the speed of the shot has more influence on CIT than any spin. Nothing wrong with nitpicking....that's often how things are learned. For anyone reading this exchange, I suggest they try it out for themselves, shoot a few shots with no spin then shoot the same shots using outside spin. Note the difference where the object ball goes. It may be so fine that you can't notice any difference.
With larger cut angles, inside english (IE) increases the relative surface speed between the balls and reduces the amount of friction and the amount of throw. For a large cut angle, a small amount of OE can reduce (but not reverse) the surface speed some resulting in more friction and more throw. _---FROM DR. DAVE SITE
I'm not sure I completely believe or not because my experience seems to be different but maybe it's just years of subconscious adjusting? Hard to argue with physics and Dr.Dave.
Brian I’m getting screwed up again. 32 seconds on this video we have a 5/8 shot so your saying with 1 tip of left english we would be aiming for a 3/8 shot? What I don’t get is if it’s a 5/8 shot and we aim the the 3/8 spot we would over cut the shot. You should make a video on the way you aim with English with deflection and spin induced throw and all that stuff. I’ve been practicing aiming with 1 tip of inside and outside English and I don’t compensate the correct amount for deflection. Only you can make me understand with a new video! Your friend steve
Keep this mind... Let's say we have a dead 1/2 ball shot. In other words, the cb to ob relationship needed to send the ob to the pocket is a half ball overlap. If aiming through the vertical centerline of the cb, your tip should be lined up to the edge of the ob.
Now, if you decide to use a tip of inside english, your tip will no longer be lined up through the vertical centerline of the cb to the edge of the ob. But the cb-ob relationship needed to pocket the ball is still the same, a half ball overlap. But your aim (when lining the cue tip through the cb to the ob) is no longer a 1/2 ball aim. You might be aiming one tip left of the center cb to the 3/4 aim point on the ob. That's the aim line, the line that ensures the cb ends up overlapping half of the ob.
You answered my question on the video.
My last question. A spot shot it’s a 1/2 ball shot, but my 1/2 ball aim does not cut the object ball enough to go in the pocket, but when I add 1 tip of right side spin they go in the pocket. I thinking to myself there not falling in the pocket because of throw, but when you shoot the shot with 1/2 ball aim they drop why do I need English to make mine?? Thanks I’ll be watching for your answer. Steve
A spot shot from the "kitchen" (behind the line) is a halfball aim if the cb is about 6 or 7 inches off the side rail and near the headstring (kitchen line).
This game piisses me off. But im addicted
It'll do that to you! Lol
@@Poolology101 i know. I took 10 years off i won 4 k in 3 weeks and then lost 5k in one day. Now i cant stop throwing balls and have no idea where i really hit them. I just started back a month ago and miss cue every 3rd shot and cannot control the cue ball. But i needed to pick it up again as a health hobby to keep my mind off the madness of a divorce. But the feeling of firing a few straight shots in has me hooked once again. I gotta build from the ground up. Thx for the vids
I recognize that cue. I also shoot with a Mezz ZZSP.
dimitriis1337, excellent cue. Mine is actually the old Mezz 401 with the newest shaft. Love it.
Noticed that at the end of the video. I saw the points were the same and assumed it was the same cue, haha. Are you playing with the WX700 shaft?
dimitriis1337.....I'll have to look at it. I ordered a new shaft for it about 3 years ago. I know it's different than the original. Great cues!
The workmanship is outstanding, especially considering the price point. I've had a Predator, an OB and a McDermott all around the $450 mark and the Mezz quality blows them all away.
Here is what is screwing me up, I’m doing great with the shot in this video, add a little outside left to throw the object ball in the pocket. What’s screwing me up is deflection like how come when I put outside left English on the cue ball why doesn’t the cue ball make contact on the right side of the object ball. Somewhere I’m getting really confused. I hope you understand my question. Steve
Does your cue have a low deflection shaft? The cb squirts less with a LD shaft.
English is a funny thing... Just the right amount causes minimal cb deflection and reduces collision-induced throw on the ob. A small amount of english has a gearing effect when the cb strikes the ob. Basically the cb rolls off the ob and transfers a tiny bit of spin to the ob.
If you use a full tip or more of english the cb will squirt more. The more english (side spin) you use, the more the cb squirts sideways. But more english doesn't necessarily spin the ob more (if any more) than when using a half tip or less of english.
Lost my stroke can you help
Lawl used too many strokes and can't tell which one is good
It's good you always go off the center. I'm not sure this is for beginners. Good demonstration though. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah but you're not telling us if you are putting back hand english on the ball or front hand english on the ball.
In this example I'm using back hand english (keeping my bridgehand in place and slightly moving/pivoting my cue with my grip hand to apply the side spin). This looks like I'm cutting the ball thinner than my aim point, but the cb deflects just enough to still contact the ball where I intend. I could do the same shot with front hand english (moving my entire cue over, parallel to the aim line, using the same aim point reference). The cb would still end up where it needs to be to pocket the ball. I use both ways for applying english, and it depends on the shot. You have to learn what works best with your specific cue, along with the speed you're using and distance between the balls. Typically, backhand english works well for most shots.
@@Poolology101 Ok, that's what I thought but wasn't sure. Your video is quite good and what I took out of it more than anything is that applying spin to the cue ball is tricky business, especially when the object ball is far from the intended pocket. But then again it's not just spin that is tricky business, the whole damn game is tricky business and I think that's what makes the game so magical. If it was easy there wouldn't be the attraction to it, at least for me.
@@BladeRunner-td8be , I agree 100%! Pool is damned tricky, but everytime something new is discovered, learned, or mastered, we see just how magical it can be. I feel sorry for players that don't feel this way, that don't appreciate the beauty and wonderment of the game. They are missing out, and they'll probably never become much of a pool player.
Last sentence of the video made the whole video pointless.
Chinmay H fucking liar
need improvement on his audio, good "tips" though.
All civil comments are welcome -- no profanity/vulgarity. I will delete those comments. If you don't like the video, give it a thumbs down. So far the video has 85% thumbs up and 15% thumbs down.
That technique is fine if you don't care about position.
It's also fine when you need to use it to hold or get a certain position
pls shoot that ball I am still waiting geez
toybot bato 😂😂😂 hasn't shot it yet ,.,,to keep ya updated lol
Brian I’m sorry, but I’m still lost, but that’s ok. Steve
3:23
Milutin The Great 😂👍
First you should explain what you mean by a 5/8 or 1/2 shot. It's confusing. And then explain what you mean by a thick or thin shot. Thanks.
Adam Jacoby, I am referring to fractional shots, as described in the book titled, Poolology - Mastering the Art of Aiming. You can read more about it here: www.pocketingballs.com
Amazing video! Clearly for top level players ! Was very usefull in game situations! Thanks!
Vincent Beaurivage , thank you!
Useful concepts but to be complete he needs to include an explanation of what a 5/8 ths and a 7/8 ths aim on the object ball refers to so this can be a stand alone video without need of another video to explain the basic ball aiming technique.
Com-On, If we're watching this video we already know what English is & We Also know what 1/2 tip compared to 1/4 tip Ect..We're watching to see Id we can pick something up for you we may not know So dont waste Sorry Much Time Explaining this, Move on to the Action you want to show..I almost turned video off because I like so many others dont need the 1st few mins of this video..Next time gets in to it so not to bore us to death with everything anybody whos gona use English to Pocket Balls already knows for long time..Just some criticism I thinking would be helpful...
Thanks for the advice. I wish I could delete the first few minutes, but too late for that now.
He goes through this whole confusing explanation, then in the end just hits the spot to make the ball. I dont see the point. Learn to aim small, you will miss small. I dont use a system, I feel the shot.
Most players just "feel" the shots, recognize them through experience. No experience = no feel. The problem is, you can't teach someone how to "feel" the shots. That is something one develops through practice. The Poolology system provides a shortcut to help players develop a good feel for pocketing balls.
@@Poolology101 I get what your saying and I know SVB uses a system like this however, I could never ever teach 1/4 ball hit to a female, there not machanical they just dont get it. If I put a laser light on the cue ball and 1 on the object ball, they get it. Your systems for better players not newbee's. I use it on spot shots only. It works great for that. The rest is 30 years of playing time and feel.
For contact point aiming (where you try to keep the ob contact point in sight and then aim your stroke or center cb an estimated distance away from that point), the laser spot on the ob would work. But it only shows the contact point, so the player still has to estimate how far to offset the stroke/aim in order to have the cb contact that laser spot. For fractional aiming (where the player aims straight at a reference point on the ob or just outside the edge of the ob), the laser only works for between 0 and 30 degrees. Any shot thinner than a halfball requires the player to estimate how far out from the ob edge they need to aim. 30 years of regularly playing makes this easier to do consistently. My videos and book are simply designed to help players get there faster without having to hit a million balls or play every day for a few years. The method is intended to help players develop exactly what you suggest -- a feel, to just see it and do it, free of any system type clutter. At that point the system itself is just another tool, another nugget that can be used if needed.
this other youtuber demestrates his aiming system..splitting the difference aiming system
Yes, I've seen the "splitting the difference" lessons. The guy appears to be a good player, but I found too many inconsistencies and contradictory lessons with what he is showing. He demonstrates pivoting to apply side spin on the cue ball, as if he is spinning them in, then he states he is hitting the center axis of the ball each time with no spin. It's interesting, but test it on several shots and determine if it works for you.
every point at a sphere is a center point at the surface so doesnt make sence
You are correct. But when looking at a sphere from any angle or perspective, your brain sees a circle, and focusing on the center vertical axis of that circle (as shown on this cue ball) is not difficult. The circle has a visual center point, and we align the cue stick perpendicular to this center point, straight through the cue ball to a specific point on the object ball, which to your brain is just another 2D circle.
I follow you all the way to the point where you say you might be aiming 1 tip left of center cb to the 3/4 point object ball that difference between 1 tip and 3/4. I thought we need to keep the difference to a 1/2 not a difference of a 1/4. It’s ok, you don’t have to answer this part, I’ll just never add 1 tip of English to the shot.
I will try to upload a video later today to explain it better.
www.playpoolbetter.com
Make novices feel even worse like your so intuitive to see the novice is ypur audience.....
Yoir a fuking genius
thr33 3y3 .....I thought this clip would be useful for most who view it.
thr33 3y3 So were you were born a good player or did you have to start at the beginning just like everyone else? Your last name wouldn't be DICK by any chance?
If you suck, maybe you should try badminton or some shit...stick to beginner videos jackass
you put in the time, you'll get there. even better if you own a table because then it's going to be a pretty penny to go out to pool halls every week... at least it is in my town. wish they had a membership or something.
You token to math 😡🤬
This is silly.
I'll be honest. This doesn't seem like it's very helpful.
Infoman one its because he is making it more complicated than it really is.
He’s cutting the object ball into 1/8’s when it really only needs to be cut into 1/4’s. The English isn’t even necessary. Any of those shots he made could have been made using 3/4 or 1/2 ball hits with zero English.
I have a TH-cam channel under my name explaining the fractional ball aiming system in simple easy to understand steps.
@@chuck_thebeard can't believe I missed this comment. You are wrong. Quarter fractional aim points only cover a handful of shot angles. I ball that needs a 22° cut angle (5/8 aim) will not hit the pocket if you aim for a 3/4. It will not hit the pocket if you aim for a 1/2. Your fractional aiming lesson is old school traditional fractional aiming, which involves guesswork, a lot of trial and error. Poolology is a fractional system that removes the guesswork. Instead of guessing or estimating an aim line, the system provides an aim line. It's a world of difference from the traditional trial and error fractional aiming method.
The basic quarters can be accurate enough to work on any shot within a diamond or so from the pocket. Beyond that distance the fractional options must be tightened up into 8ths or smaller in order to be accurate enough to hit the pocket.
Example: place an ob 6" out from a pocket and line the cb up so it's a straight in shot. You can aim for a 3/4 hit and still make the ball. Now move the ob out another 10" and set up a straight in shot. From here aiming for a 3/4 will not pocket the ball. On an easy Valley barbox it might, but on the table used in this video there's no way any of the shots I showed will go by simply aiming for the nearest quarter fractional aim, especially when the ob is 7 or 8 ft from the pocket.
If you don't find it helpful it's because you aren't at that skill level yet to recognize when a shot either needs to be slightly overcut or englished in to offset the throw that will occur.