Never get sick of watching this dude smash metal. Hard to even comprehend some of the things he comes up with. True fine art. That you can go to battle with. Nice.
Have you ever looked into induction forging? I have often wondered if it would be possible to do any serious forging/smiting in an oxygen-free environment, which I believe could be made possible using a partioned space filled with an inert gas (like argon) and an induction forge. If you could sequester all the necessary equipment in such a space, and manipulate the equipment via sealed gloves (as is done in a sand-blasting cabinet), you could accomplish some truly unique work. Imagine not having to worry about oxidization at any point, from forging your billet, through to heat treatment! No forge scale, no oxide causing failed welds, no need to grind or sand after heat-cycles, etc. I think there's a chance such a set-up could revolutionize blacksmithing.
When tig welding a large billet of high carbon steel it should help to heat the parts before welding. When welding the surrounding material quickly sucks the heat out of the weld making it really hard. heating up the weld with a toach after welding making it cool slower also helps prevent cracking.
Agreed, preheat and after heat to around 600f is usually necessary with high carbon steel. Especially when the object is large. Stresses in the heat affected zone due to the rapid cooling and hardening make the steel brittle and prone to cracking.
Cant make a truly awesome sword without fun and dorky humor. Gotta love this guy and his passion! He's an inspiration! And he deserves all the success. Keep rocking Kyle! 🎉
I really like this longer video style. I’m also enjoying all the little extra personal moments and cool shots. It’s so professional and high quality. The all around progression is really cool to see.
Those pedals honestly look so crazy to me. I’m not very knowledgeable about presses like this but I’m surprised they don’t have just one pedal that makes it go down when activated and up when not. Seems like it would take away a ton of the awkwardness of the whole process
@@dabearsfan9 You can build it. Log splitters do it. The issue is you need to make the return height adjustable. You do not want it to return way above the work only to have to wait for it to come back down when you stop. It would not be hard to do though. I would put the return on a solenoid valve and use a adjustable limit switch to stop it at what ever height I want.
I was thinking along kind of same but just change the hydraulic valve/splitter block to a solenoid activated and can run with foot switches wherever you need.
Pre heat your metal before welding to avoid those cracks. My rule of thumb is anything over 3/4 and thicker, pre heat. Stacking those billets together definitely counts as a pre heat situation. Just some advice from a welder and a fan of your metal work and videos. Your awesome, keep it sharp!!!! Ps. I just started, first time ever with a railroad spike today. It's great. Thanks again for the inspiration
The welds are cracking for multiple reasons. One is because of the thermal mass of the billet is cooling the weld very quickly and cracking it. The solution is to preheat the whole billet and let it cool slowly. The other is as you found out the 15n20 weld is super hard so it’s super brittle. The forging looks amazing by the way.
Thank you for bringing us along on another masterpiece. I personally have never seen another builder that produces the level of quality that you do. And I watch a lot of builders.
In the future, stitch weld the seam, cool and clean it, then finish weld the gaps. This will keep your welds from cracking, and will even the weld stress on the base metal.
Awesome work my friend! To help from cracking when welding large blocks of steel, just pre heat it a little. Don’t take much heat but it will prevent the cold billet from sucking the heat from the weld location and crack. Love your work my friend!
I love (enjoy greatly) watching you work; not because I learn tricks of the trade to make me a better maker of cutlery, nor will I ever have the funds that would allow me to purchase one of your works of art (although I would if I could).. No, I am enthralled by your joy of creation, and your glee of Ex nihilo development. Thank you.
You should look into glass blowing. They handle front loaded heavy equipment like this all day. Maybe if you copy some of their techniques, you can handle even stuff.
Kyle, Using CA glue (actually any glue) between the layers of steel significantly weakens the final weld. The reason for this is that glue introduces nitrogen, carbon (graphite), oxygen, and hydrogen impurities into the weld area. In fact, as the glue heats up it will release a small amount of water, CO, CO2, and even a tiny amount of NOS - in fact those gases were what was causing your welds to pop. The hydrogen embrittles the steel and won't go away because the atoms are so small that they fit between the metallic atoms (an interstitial impurity). The only good news is that the graphite (carbon) from the glue will break down and diffuse through the steel. When you first started heating this billet, you where heating it too fast, which put additional stress on the welds. Generally, larger the cross-section of the billet slower the heating. In fact, using your annealing oven to pre-heat (to around 1100 F) the billet over an hour, or so, before heating to welding temps should eliminate most of your problems with popping TIG welds.
Why don't you use flux, to reduce the amount of scale that's produced? Shurap uses what I think is some borax based blend, and it seems to cut way down on the total amount of scale that builds up.
I've watched up to 13:08 and as a material science background that worked in aerospace engineering for a bit and evaluated metallography...I can GUARANTEE you your weld line is stronger (meaning, much smaller grain size) than the surrounding/parent material. Welds are ALWAYS stronger than surrounding material, it requires proper welding technique to not introduce voids etc, that then compromise that weld line before the surrounding material is compromised. I am basically saying...A properly done weld should NEVER fail before surrounding material does, and it's partly because you have such a small grain size to the crystallography occurring (of course this depends on stresses, you are making a stronger but more brittle area, but usually the amount of energy to create a brittle fracture in the weld...it will have resulted in failured elsewhere prior). That's a lot of 'energy' to overcome (it's kind of similar to the surface area with water tension concept?) More surface area, harder to release, if that makes sense...you're trying to slide all of those atoms past each other that are locked into a 'happy' place currently. But of course, poor welding technique and introduction of inclusions or bubbles (gas) will ultimately result in a failure initiating from those sites.
Kyle, a trick / tip for longer welds that I have seen on heavy equipment repairs, run your weld in small increments of the whole length, jumping the same increment size between welds. do 1 line on one side in this way, flip billet and weld the furthest join in the same pattern, but have the welds where the gaps would be on the first. work your way through each section needing welds with a break to let it cool between sections before going back and finishing the first line of weld by filling the gaps. this lets the billet equalize the heat and leaves spaces where it doesn't seal until it has cooled down. if a billet is 12 inches 6 2 inch welds done in sets of 3 or other size increments to suit the billet.
Yes when your adding filler rod I would agree with you 100%. He is fussing without filler. Heating the billet and keeping it hot stops the billet from cooling the weld too fast causing cracks.
The reason your welds are cracking is not because you've overheated it. The reason is two-fold. First, it's stainless. Stainless contracts viciously while it's cooling. Second, you're not using filler so the weld is extremely thin. You will find there is very little penetration with that style of weld. Another reason that you're partly correct about is the size of the billet. It's acting like a gigantic heat sink and sucking the heat out of the weld almost as fast as you're putting it in. If you preheat your pieces to about 350 degrees prior to welding, you will have a much better result. You can buy a "tempstick" that will help you hit the right preheat temp. It's essentially a crayon that won't write until you get the correct temperature. Once you reach the 350 mark the tempstick begins leaving traces that show up easily. You can buy them in many grades of temperatures. 350 should be sufficient for what you're doing.
Idk why, but the "shiny when you wire wheel it" is my favorite repetitive joke lmao. I forget which blade you said that over and over on lol. This is going to be awesome, bud. I cant wait to see it when you're donen
Know this Kyle!! Your work will live on for centuries after your gone and you'll be remembered as a modern master artist of our time bro! Utter perfectionist ❤
Kyle. Please consider making some pedal extensions that you can put on and take off as needed. A slip on fit with a set screw should do. You were too uncomfortable doing that billet. Incredible pattern! I look forward to seeing the blade completed.
Hi Kyle, I love the work you do, you have been one of the most precious inspirations here on YT for me. If I may, I would like to have a humble comment on the hardness testing you performed after welding the 15n20. After setting the initial pre-load on the HRC tester, you should zero it out (i.e. place the C on the dial in line with the indicator needle). You had it offset approximately 27 points. Had you zeroed it, the resulting hardness of the welded bead would be roughly 37 HRC (which is still harder than a steel in a soft-annealed state, I would say the as-came material is 20-30 HRC). 15N20 is not highly alloyed with elements like Cr, V, Mo, W or Nb and thus is not air-hardening, so I am really dubious about the fact it could achieve 64 HRC just by cooling in the still air. However, to make the properties more even across the whole welded bar, maybe you could utilise normalisation annealing to make the grain structure more even and refined and then soft annealing to make the carbides globular and the steel as soft as it can get. Anyway, keep up the great work, to me you are one of the best knife makers I have seen on YT!
I bought four of these on Amazon, to line the bottom of my 4-burner forge. They don't take up much space, and they work like a charm to keep the flux off the bottom. And, they're cheap enough to be sacrificial. (Amaco Kiln Shelf for Model 62 EFC - 6" x 6", Rectangle)
Would it help you handle heavy billets if you added a counter-weight to the end of your handle, kind of like a pommel? It would at least balance it a little better.
this comes from someone who works as a welder. the reason the welds pop for you on thoose billets come from that the material is to cold when you weld them. so what you can do to prevent the welds from cracking is to preheat a bit and then weld it. that should prevent your welds from cracking becuse that is what we do when we weld thicker/bigger pieces
This is my favorite pattern you've made so far! ❤❤❤❤❤ Totally worth all the work you put into it. Wonderful handiwork! Your skill and attention to detail is marvelous!
next time you weld something that big, heat it up first, then you won't have the same expansion problems because it will already be in an expanded state
Have you considered coating the floor of you forge in Bubble Alumina? I've had mine coated for about a year now and it is just now starting to need replacement. it resists the flux really well and is pretty easy to apply.
Funny thing. Back in the when I worked in the steel industry, our hardest material to coldmill was T61 and softest was T52. And I held at that time the word record for thinnest coldmilled steel at 0.08mm thick. Aliminumfoil is 0.05, and is double layerd to get that thickness. We milled 1/3 of the coil and ended up with almost 11 000 meters of coldmilled steel.
42:03 Imagine welding them together, then drill a circular hole in the middle and weld in the inside a circular damasco metal bar😮. To be fair that flower looks awesome 😎
I recently stumbled upon your channel and it has been super inspiring to see your level of craftmanship. Even though I work with a different kind of material (wood, I make guitars as a luthier student), one can aprreciate the skill and time invested that has gotten you that far! I hope I'll one day be as good in my craft as well :) I am certainly looking forward to seeing more of your epic creations! Also, it is trule heartwarming to see what kind of a relationship you have with your family. Seeing you hug and kiss goodbuy at the end of the day really gives me joy and makes me see you and your craft in a very positive way. I also enjoy your joyful style, seems like you're really having the best time making these projects and that's what it is all about! Like said, can't wait to see what you come up with next!
One possible solution is to make strip sections to make up the floor. Thus reducing the amount of surface tension so it won’t crack up like it does if you make it a large section. Also trying to mix it up with a minimal amount of water so it comes out more solid and uniform but I am not sure about its ability to withstand the heat if you do that. Not familiar with it full composition. Just a thought.
Hey, I started building my furnace out of an old water heater using an idea from a video I saw from the King of Random where he makes a foundry from plaster of paris and play sand, but as cheap as this project has been so far the furnace is about 185lbs. I want to be able to use my furnace as a foundry as well, but I don’t want to make the lid out of the same material. I heard you say in your last video that you used “KO wool” I wasn’t sure if I heard that correctly so I turned the caption on and saw “kale wool.” I figured that wasn’t what was said either so I wanted to ask what is it exactly. I thought it looked like normal insulation in your last griffin sword video, and when you said “-wool” and I got excited about a potentially lighter option. I’m a huge fan. I love your work. You’re so super cool. I wish I was so super cool. Maybe I’ll make stuff like you one day. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Hope to hear from you soon. P.S.: I Also sent this message as an email. P.P.S.: Thank you again. 😂 Time stamp: 2:26
About the new saw blade: it's safer to cut softer material first to break it in. The hardened and freshly sharpened teeth can easily break on hard material but a few passes on soft scrap steel can help them a lot.
The patterns Kyle makes is insane. I understand them and the process…… but the thought that he thought all the steps through with success with the pattern is insane. Makes my brain hurt trying to figure it out just by a picture of the final pattern.
Just a thought about your foot press, have you thought of rotating your foot controls 90⁰ so that you can do all the action with a single foot?, rock forward, and back on the foot? Your work is amazing by the way, mind blowing!
You should think of adding a chain support from the roof to help hold the weight of the bar as you move it. There can be a chain on either side of the press to hold both ends. Also, design a quick attachment for the pedals so that you can increase the distance from the press.
Can a chiropractor or concerned Doc maybe reach out to him on his posture? I'm no doc but I know that a neck should not stray so far our of alignment from the shoulders.
His ability to understand and predict how damascus will turn out is truely amazing. I've watched my far share of smiths working on demascus, but none of them have ever predicted their pattern nearly as accuratly.
That is going to be one awesome sword, i can already tell. Also, i get really joyful seeing how loving this family is, dad, mom, brother, and ofc Kyle, such a special family. (am i missing someone to praise?) On to the next episode! can't wait.
Looking excellent! Try stainless Tig filler, it helps prevent cracking a little better than carbon or mild steel when welding carbon steel. It's also nice and easy to see when you're grinding it out later
If you have problems with hiccups, firmly massage your Left earlobe between your thumb and pointer finger. It's a acupressure point that stops hiccups almost instantly for most people.
Try preheating your billet a bit before you do the TIG runs pal. The "bigger" billet at cold temp is acting like a heatsink causing too rapid cooling and contraction causing the cracking. Just warm it slightly to take the chill off , doesnt need to be glowing hot. Also using parent metal as filler, doesn't have the additives like silica etc in it that "proper" TIG filler rods have which are designed to give it better properties so the preheating will give it more of a fighting chance. Filler rods are always higher quality than the parent metal for this reason. Great content, impeccable standard. Your finished products speak for themselves. Keep up the good work!! 👏👍👌
Hey Kyle, would it help to hang chains close to the press so you can cradle the handle of the billet and only thing you need to do is manouver it back and forth and rotate it.
Out of curiosity, is there a reason you don’t use a sacrificial floor (the smith I apprenticed with would use hard fire brick with soft fire brick crumbled on top to catch flux). For clarity, not suggesting I know better but I’m about to build my first forge and was planning to have a sacrificial floor in there but this has me reconsidering since you’re a master smith and you don’t seem to favor it.
Never get sick of watching this dude smash metal. Hard to even comprehend some of the things he comes up with. True fine art. That you can go to battle with. Nice.
It's great to see the love in your family.
Fantastic damascus, btw!
Have you ever looked into induction forging? I have often wondered if it would be possible to do any serious forging/smiting in an oxygen-free environment, which I believe could be made possible using a partioned space filled with an inert gas (like argon) and an induction forge. If you could sequester all the necessary equipment in such a space, and manipulate the equipment via sealed gloves (as is done in a sand-blasting cabinet), you could accomplish some truly unique work. Imagine not having to worry about oxidization at any point, from forging your billet, through to heat treatment! No forge scale, no oxide causing failed welds, no need to grind or sand after heat-cycles, etc. I think there's a chance such a set-up could revolutionize blacksmithing.
When tig welding a large billet of high carbon steel it should help to heat the parts before welding. When welding the surrounding material quickly sucks the heat out of the weld making it really hard. heating up the weld with a toach after welding making it cool slower also helps prevent cracking.
also if going for complete penetration he should consider using a backing purge plate. It makes a huge difference.
Agreed, preheat and after heat to around 600f is usually necessary with high carbon steel. Especially when the object is large. Stresses in the heat affected zone due to the rapid cooling and hardening make the steel brittle and prone to cracking.
I was gonna say the same thing. Read my mind
and I was going to say the same too….im lying also
Why is watching the hot metal get pressed sooooo freaking satisfying? It never gets old, it's my favorite part of any video.
It would be great to see a clip of dad making the new forge…looks awesome
I absolutely love how your family are so close ❤ Angie
Cant make a truly awesome sword without fun and dorky humor. Gotta love this guy and his passion! He's an inspiration! And he deserves all the success. Keep rocking Kyle! 🎉
I really like this longer video style. I’m also enjoying all the little extra personal moments and cool shots. It’s so professional and high quality. The all around progression is really cool to see.
No doubt, foot peddle extensions are definitely in order. Papa Royer get on that please!
I can't believe he didn't rig something up to extend the peddles. Seems like a fairly easy task with everything he has at his disposal.
Those pedals honestly look so crazy to me. I’m not very knowledgeable about presses like this but I’m surprised they don’t have just one pedal that makes it go down when activated and up when not. Seems like it would take away a ton of the awkwardness of the whole process
@@dabearsfan9 You can build it. Log splitters do it. The issue is you need to make the return height adjustable. You do not want it to return way above the work only to have to wait for it to come back down when you stop. It would not be hard to do though. I would put the return on a solenoid valve and use a adjustable limit switch to stop it at what ever height I want.
I was thinking along kind of same but just change the hydraulic valve/splitter block to a solenoid activated and can run with foot switches wherever you need.
Pre heat your metal before welding to avoid those cracks.
My rule of thumb is anything over 3/4 and thicker, pre heat.
Stacking those billets together definitely counts as a pre heat situation. Just some advice from a welder and a fan of your metal work and videos. Your awesome, keep it sharp!!!!
Ps. I just started, first time ever with a railroad spike today.
It's great. Thanks again for the inspiration
The welds are cracking for multiple reasons. One is because of the thermal mass of the billet is cooling the weld very quickly and cracking it. The solution is to preheat the whole billet and let it cool slowly. The other is as you found out the 15n20 weld is super hard so it’s super brittle. The forging looks amazing by the way.
Thank you for bringing us along on another masterpiece.
I personally have never seen another builder that produces the level of quality that you do. And I watch a lot of builders.
29:31
Me: "Quite the handsome looking billet."
Kyle: "That looks kinda nasty"
Me: "Disgusting."
I always agreed with your expert opinion since the beginning...lol
In the future, stitch weld the seam, cool and clean it, then finish weld the gaps. This will keep your welds from cracking, and will even the weld stress on the base metal.
Yes preheat the billet before welding to avoid the layers pooping apart no matter how much filler you use it’ll probably still pop
Your pattern vision is incredible Kyle. Feels like I’ve been watching you work for a lifetime and I love it. ❤👍🏼👊🏼
Dang! We got part 2 already! Thank you
Awesome work my friend! To help from cracking when welding large blocks of steel, just pre heat it a little. Don’t take much heat but it will prevent the cold billet from sucking the heat from the weld location and crack. Love your work my friend!
I love (enjoy greatly) watching you work; not because I learn tricks of the trade to make me a better maker of cutlery, nor will I ever have the funds that would allow me to purchase one of your works of art (although I would if I could).. No, I am enthralled by your joy of creation, and your glee of Ex nihilo development. Thank you.
I must say you're a really skilled forger making such beautiful Damascus patterns.
You should look into glass blowing. They handle front loaded heavy equipment like this all day. Maybe if you copy some of their techniques, you can handle even stuff.
Next time you put the billet on the end of the stick it might help to put a chunk of scrap on the other end to help counter balance the weight.
Kyle,
Using CA glue (actually any glue) between the layers of steel significantly weakens the final weld. The reason for this is that glue introduces nitrogen, carbon (graphite), oxygen, and hydrogen impurities into the weld area. In fact, as the glue heats up it will release a small amount of water, CO, CO2, and even a tiny amount of NOS - in fact those gases were what was causing your welds to pop. The hydrogen embrittles the steel and won't go away because the atoms are so small that they fit between the metallic atoms (an interstitial impurity). The only good news is that the graphite (carbon) from the glue will break down and diffuse through the steel.
When you first started heating this billet, you where heating it too fast, which put additional stress on the welds. Generally, larger the cross-section of the billet slower the heating. In fact, using your annealing oven to pre-heat (to around 1100 F) the billet over an hour, or so, before heating to welding temps should eliminate most of your problems with popping TIG welds.
Why don't you use flux, to reduce the amount of scale that's produced? Shurap uses what I think is some borax based blend, and it seems to cut way down on the total amount of scale that builds up.
For those larger billets, if you preheat the billet prior to welding it should reduce or solve the joint cracking.
I've watched up to 13:08 and as a material science background that worked in aerospace engineering for a bit and evaluated metallography...I can GUARANTEE you your weld line is stronger (meaning, much smaller grain size) than the surrounding/parent material. Welds are ALWAYS stronger than surrounding material, it requires proper welding technique to not introduce voids etc, that then compromise that weld line before the surrounding material is compromised. I am basically saying...A properly done weld should NEVER fail before surrounding material does, and it's partly because you have such a small grain size to the crystallography occurring (of course this depends on stresses, you are making a stronger but more brittle area, but usually the amount of energy to create a brittle fracture in the weld...it will have resulted in failured elsewhere prior). That's a lot of 'energy' to overcome (it's kind of similar to the surface area with water tension concept?) More surface area, harder to release, if that makes sense...you're trying to slide all of those atoms past each other that are locked into a 'happy' place currently. But of course, poor welding technique and introduction of inclusions or bubbles (gas) will ultimately result in a failure initiating from those sites.
Good luck with that project. Can’t wait to see next one. God bless you and your beautiful family. Tnx for sharing.
Kyle, a trick / tip for longer welds that I have seen on heavy equipment repairs, run your weld in small increments of the whole length, jumping the same increment size between welds. do 1 line on one side in this way, flip billet and weld the furthest join in the same pattern, but have the welds where the gaps would be on the first. work your way through each section needing welds with a break to let it cool between sections before going back and finishing the first line of weld by filling the gaps.
this lets the billet equalize the heat and leaves spaces where it doesn't seal until it has cooled down. if a billet is 12 inches 6 2 inch welds done in sets of 3 or other size increments to suit the billet.
That’s a great way to keep a part from bending not cracking
@@alanray3687it's also heat management, which controls the stress cracking the welds themselves.
Yes when your adding filler rod I would agree with you 100%.
He is fussing without filler.
Heating the billet and keeping it hot stops the billet from cooling the weld too fast causing cracks.
The reason your welds are cracking is not because you've overheated it. The reason is two-fold. First, it's stainless. Stainless contracts viciously while it's cooling. Second, you're not using filler so the weld is extremely thin. You will find there is very little penetration with that style of weld. Another reason that you're partly correct about is the size of the billet. It's acting like a gigantic heat sink and sucking the heat out of the weld almost as fast as you're putting it in. If you preheat your pieces to about 350 degrees prior to welding, you will have a much better result. You can buy a "tempstick" that will help you hit the right preheat temp. It's essentially a crayon that won't write until you get the correct temperature. Once you reach the 350 mark the tempstick begins leaving traces that show up easily. You can buy them in many grades of temperatures. 350 should be sufficient for what you're doing.
If you're having issues with cracking you can either pre-heat the pieces to reduce the severity of heat deformation.
I just can't comprehend how you keep outdoing yourself. Each new project just blows my mind even more than the last.❤
You could try adding pedal extensions to your press. Might help with the longer billets on swords.
Idk why, but the "shiny when you wire wheel it" is my favorite repetitive joke lmao. I forget which blade you said that over and over on lol. This is going to be awesome, bud. I cant wait to see it when you're donen
Love these long format videos with all the real moments in the shop. Good to know you're having fun while working so hard on these masterpieces!
Hey Kyle,.. To potentially solve the problem of pedal reach, you might try cutting notches in a couple 1 ft lengths of 2x4 to slide over the pedals.
Know this Kyle!! Your work will live on for centuries after your gone and you'll be remembered as a modern master artist of our time bro! Utter perfectionist ❤
Kyle. Please consider making some pedal extensions that you can put on and take off as needed. A slip on fit with a set screw should do. You were too uncomfortable doing that billet.
Incredible pattern! I look forward to seeing the blade completed.
Hi Kyle, I love the work you do, you have been one of the most precious inspirations here on YT for me. If I may, I would like to have a humble comment on the hardness testing you performed after welding the 15n20. After setting the initial pre-load on the HRC tester, you should zero it out (i.e. place the C on the dial in line with the indicator needle). You had it offset approximately 27 points. Had you zeroed it, the resulting hardness of the welded bead would be roughly 37 HRC (which is still harder than a steel in a soft-annealed state, I would say the as-came material is 20-30 HRC). 15N20 is not highly alloyed with elements like Cr, V, Mo, W or Nb and thus is not air-hardening, so I am really dubious about the fact it could achieve 64 HRC just by cooling in the still air. However, to make the properties more even across the whole welded bar, maybe you could utilise normalisation annealing to make the grain structure more even and refined and then soft annealing to make the carbides globular and the steel as soft as it can get. Anyway, keep up the great work, to me you are one of the best knife makers I have seen on YT!
To help re squaring on wierd angles, could you weld a crosspiece on the handle at the new angle, to give u a solid reference for what flat is?
I bought four of these on Amazon, to line the bottom of my 4-burner forge. They don't take up much space, and they work like a charm to keep the flux off the bottom. And, they're cheap enough to be sacrificial. (Amaco Kiln Shelf for Model 62 EFC - 6" x 6", Rectangle)
Its really nice seeing the love you're family shares with each other. Thats how i am with my kids. Its sad to say but i dont think enough families do.
You have damascus patterns down so incredibly. It's insane.
Gosh amazing piece, but also your relationship with your parents is so wholesome 🥺 Fantastic work man well done!!!!
Would it help you handle heavy billets if you added a counter-weight to the end of your handle, kind of like a pommel? It would at least balance it a little better.
You're such an artist Mr. Royer.. friggin phenomenal work sir
this comes from someone who works as a welder. the reason the welds pop for you on thoose billets come from that the material is to cold when you weld them. so what you can do to prevent the welds from cracking is to preheat a bit and then weld it. that should prevent your welds from cracking becuse that is what we do when we weld thicker/bigger pieces
This is my favorite pattern you've made so far! ❤❤❤❤❤ Totally worth all the work you put into it. Wonderful handiwork! Your skill and attention to detail is marvelous!
Вы не пользуетесь флюсами для сварки?Может просто этого не показываете?
next time you weld something that big, heat it up first, then you won't have the same expansion problems because it will already be in an expanded state
Have you considered coating the floor of you forge in Bubble Alumina? I've had mine coated for about a year now and it is just now starting to need replacement. it resists the flux really well and is pretty easy to apply.
So excited for this build the Damascus looks truly amazing
Love to see that you use Grizzly equipment. I am a custom furniture maker in Phoenix AZ and I use lots of Grizzly tools for my craft as well
I've discovered that I tend to learn so many things that I never knew that I've always wanted to know . I do absolutely love this channel!
Someday I would love to attend one of your classes on patterned Damascus! It's all so amazing!
Funny thing. Back in the when I worked in the steel industry, our hardest material to coldmill was T61 and softest was T52. And I held at that time the word record for thinnest coldmilled steel at 0.08mm thick. Aliminumfoil is 0.05, and is double layerd to get that thickness. We milled 1/3 of the coil and ended up with almost 11 000 meters of coldmilled steel.
MASTER KYLE! Thanks for all the inspiration. ANd Your way showing Your mistakes is so so nice, and gives hope that I will once can be better later!
Your family is awesome. It’s lovely to see!
42:03 Imagine welding them together, then drill a circular hole in the middle and weld in the inside a circular damasco metal bar😮. To be fair that flower looks awesome 😎
That slow motion shot of the forge welding was awesome
1 000 000 subscribers on this channel till the end of the year
please and thank you!
You are one of the only reasons why TH-cam should exist!
I recently stumbled upon your channel and it has been super inspiring to see your level of craftmanship. Even though I work with a different kind of material (wood, I make guitars as a luthier student), one can aprreciate the skill and time invested that has gotten you that far! I hope I'll one day be as good in my craft as well :) I am certainly looking forward to seeing more of your epic creations!
Also, it is trule heartwarming to see what kind of a relationship you have with your family. Seeing you hug and kiss goodbuy at the end of the day really gives me joy and makes me see you and your craft in a very positive way. I also enjoy your joyful style, seems like you're really having the best time making these projects and that's what it is all about! Like said, can't wait to see what you come up with next!
By far the best shirt salesman ever "They're 100% cotton so if you set yourself on fire they shouldn't stick to your skin!"
One possible solution is to make strip sections to make up the floor. Thus reducing the amount of surface tension so it won’t crack up like it does if you make it a large section. Also trying to mix it up with a minimal amount of water so it comes out more solid and uniform but I am not sure about its ability to withstand the heat if you do that. Not familiar with it full composition. Just a thought.
Hey, I started building my furnace out of an old water heater using an idea from a video I saw from the King of Random where he makes a foundry from plaster of paris and play sand, but as cheap as this project has been so far the furnace is about 185lbs. I want to be able to use my furnace as a foundry as well, but I don’t want to make the lid out of the same material. I heard you say in your last video that you used “KO wool” I wasn’t sure if I heard that correctly so I turned the caption on and saw “kale wool.” I figured that wasn’t what was said either so I wanted to ask what is it exactly. I thought it looked like normal insulation in your last griffin sword video, and when you said “-wool” and I got excited about a potentially lighter option. I’m a huge fan. I love your work. You’re so super cool. I wish I was so super cool. Maybe I’ll make stuff like you one day. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Hope to hear from you soon.
P.S.: I Also sent this message as an email.
P.P.S.: Thank you again. 😂
Time stamp: 2:26
It's called Kao wool there is also Iso wool
I had to pause the video for a while just so I could stare at the pattern and take it all in. That is going to be absolutely gorgeous.
About the new saw blade: it's safer to cut softer material first to break it in. The hardened and freshly sharpened teeth can easily break on hard material but a few passes on soft scrap steel can help them a lot.
Have you ever tried heating the billets before tig welding them? I know I have to when welding large mild steel.
Great pattern! This is a work of art in the making, and I can barely wait to see the finished piece
The patterns Kyle makes is insane. I understand them and the process…… but the thought that he thought all the steps through with success with the pattern is insane. Makes my brain hurt trying to figure it out just by a picture of the final pattern.
That is a beautiful pattern!❤
Just a thought about your foot press, have you thought of rotating your foot controls 90⁰ so that you can do all the action with a single foot?, rock forward, and back on the foot? Your work is amazing by the way, mind blowing!
Awesome, love your work . The support from your family is outstanding. Looking forward to the next instalment.
I was actually stoked to see kyle royer post a video over an hour long!
Incredible work, thanks for sharing.
The layers of 15N20 really make those layers look like a banner waving in the wind. AMAZING!
You should think of adding a chain support from the roof to help hold the weight of the bar as you move it. There can be a chain on either side of the press to hold both ends.
Also, design a quick attachment for the pedals so that you can increase the distance from the press.
Can a chiropractor or concerned Doc maybe reach out to him on his posture? I'm no doc but I know that a neck should not stray so far our of alignment from the shoulders.
Definitely needs an adjustment
Your a madman! All that work! Bravo!
His ability to understand and predict how damascus will turn out is truely amazing. I've watched my far share of smiths working on demascus, but none of them have ever predicted their pattern nearly as accuratly.
That is going to be one awesome sword, i can already tell.
Also, i get really joyful seeing how loving this family is, dad, mom, brother, and ofc Kyle, such a special family. (am i missing someone to praise?)
On to the next episode! can't wait.
Looking excellent! Try stainless Tig filler, it helps prevent cracking a little better than carbon or mild steel when welding carbon steel. It's also nice and easy to see when you're grinding it out later
If you have problems with hiccups, firmly massage your Left earlobe between your thumb and pointer finger. It's a acupressure point that stops hiccups almost instantly for most people.
Try preheating your billet a bit before you do the TIG runs pal. The "bigger" billet at cold temp is acting like a heatsink causing too rapid cooling and contraction causing the cracking.
Just warm it slightly to take the chill off , doesnt need to be glowing hot.
Also using parent metal as filler, doesn't have the additives like silica etc in it that "proper" TIG filler rods have which are designed to give it better properties so the preheating will give it more of a fighting chance.
Filler rods are always higher quality than the parent metal for this reason. Great content, impeccable standard. Your finished products speak for themselves. Keep up the good work!! 👏👍👌
Amazement bordered upon stupification. Thank you for letting me walk through your garden.
This is amazing artwork. Have any of these beautiful swords been used in simulated combat?
Cannot wait to see the Griffin sword ⚔️ finished I bet it's going to be a true work of art
May the Forge be with us all…
👍👍👍👍👍😊😊😊 Thank you ! Wish you all the best and keep forging !
This is how you innovate. Trying things you've never done before.
DO SOMETHING WITH WOOTZ STEEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!please
for welding large pieces together. They need to be preheated and then welded. Doing this prevents the cracking of welds you're having.
I love long formate videos like this man! Awsome seeing all the progress on this big piece
Got to be one of the most talented humans living at his trade.
Hey Kyle, would it help to hang chains close to the press so you can cradle the handle of the billet and only thing you need to do is manouver it back and forth and rotate it.
Out of curiosity, is there a reason you don’t use a sacrificial floor (the smith I apprenticed with would use hard fire brick with soft fire brick crumbled on top to catch flux). For clarity, not suggesting I know better but I’m about to build my first forge and was planning to have a sacrificial floor in there but this has me reconsidering since you’re a master smith and you don’t seem to favor it.
Really interesting to hear you talk about the scale. Every video like this I watch I wonder about that. Thanks!
would it be possible to make foot pedal extenders so you can sit further away from the press?
You make some of the best stuff
Hope all is well man!
Amazing skills.. man. You are a champion