Don't light quality brake cleaner on fire. Genuine brands are heptane or chlorinated which is instant cancer. Its what the Chinese clean phones with and those works die after 3 years while working with fume hoods and respirators without even lighting it on fire. Muccoff is just acetone and ethanol according to the safety sheet, ie its degreaser not even brake cleaner. Yes sand your discs if you've cooked them (glazed) and they look super shiney, polished or blue coloured. Ideally use a wire wheel instead that won't actually remove any material
Fixing contaminated pads is simple: Simply put them in the oven ... on edge ... not face down or up, at 350F / 175C for about 30 minutes. Grab the pad with a pair of pliers so you don't burn your fingers, and wipe the friction surface with a clean, white paper towel. It will leave a greasy mark on the white paper towel. Set them back in the oven immediately after wiping (on edge again), and pull them out again and wipe with a clean white paper towel again. Repeat this until the paper towel is still clean after wiping the friction surface (might require 3-5 wipes, once every 15 minutes or so). Voila -- pad will function as new. No chemicals, no setting anything on fire. Just heat and wipe until clean. Agree completely with Martin Long: simply clean the brake disc... no sanding or anything else (unless the disc has "ding" on it or something like that, which can be cleaned up with a small file).
just one wear safety glasses when using brake cleaner as someone who got a bit sprayed in my eye that is not a fun experience thank goodness my shop had an eyewash station.
Flame torch works best. You just need to flame the pads till they are not smoking anymore. For the rotors I use rough sand paper and just scuff them up. Works every time 😎
I find acetone (nail varnish remover) works better than cleaner or alcohol. Actually the best stuff Is M.E.K. (industrial paint thinner) but its more expensive and rather nasty stuff. I wouldn't advise lighting flammable liquids on fire, a heat gun, blow torch (or the grill if the wife's not home) will get them hot enough to smoke off any oil in a controlled way. But if you must do this method do it outside and PLEASE take OFF the gloves you have just handled the liquid with, if they catch on fire they will melt on your hands before you manage to get them off.
I’ve used the sandpaper (600 grit) method on my new SRAM Code brakes before installing as a means to “break in” and marry the disc and pads together. I feel it makes the brakes quieter and efficient from the first ride.
I have diamond stones for sharpening tools, just a flat rub on those and a bit of window cleaner or alcohol to wipe the residue off. Far more effective and flat, with no explosions. If you don’t have stones, you can tape sandpaper to a flat surface like a tile, will also work pretty well.
I prefer to use a white or light coloured cleaning cloth, rather than a black one like the one Alex used. That way, if a section of your cleaning cloth has some contaminants/dirt/grease on it from your cleaning, you will clearly see it and thus avoid that section of the cleaning cloth on the next stage of your cleaning process.
Be cautious with using fire to clean bonded components. Heat can soften the adhesive and de-bond components. I prefer alcohol and a fine grit sand paper for brake pad cleaning. Alcohol only for rotor surfaces.
Acetone works quite well for brake rotors. You have to be careful with alcohol based solvents as much of the time they contain other substances. A cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol should work well.
What a lot of faffing around , i just wash my wheels and brake pads with warm soapy water , no problem s , .. oh hold on silly me I am still using rim brakes.. 😂
Kudos for being willing to present some non-standard techniques using fire! FWIW: My recommendation is to burn contamination out of the brake pads with a propane or butane torch and then sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper, no solvents needed and much higher heat. Then sand the rotor surface fairly aggressively with 80 grit paper also before cleaning with brake cleaner. This method works about 80% of the time,, though less consistenly with organic pads than with metal pads.
Another bunch of furphies and half-truths: firstly, spray disc brake cleaner is toxic in nearly all its formulations, as well as putting an unnecessary empty pressurised can into the waste stream. You breathe it in, you elevate your cancer risk. Use isopropanol or in dire straits, acetone, wiped on and off. Secondly, you cannot decontaminate brake pads of brake fluid by setting them on fire, putting them in an oven, soaking them in metho then setting them on fire, or any variations on the theme. If you can't abrade the glaze and contaminants off the surface (& use a cement block or piece of smooth concrete to do it as they're flatter) of the pad, it's time for new ones. Brake pads have an open resin structure that acts like a sponge, and only cleanliness will stop them degrading quickly. GCN Tech, lift your game.
A lot of unnecessary steps, for example, cleaning the pads before sanding them. Why would you do that? Simple sand the pads, wipe them with a clean cloth, sand them with the finer paper and in the very end (maybe) use some brake cleaner. And do NOT use fire especially not to light extremely flammable gases inside. There could easily form an explosive flame if you have used too much or you're in a small room etc.
If you sand first you risk grinding surface contaminants into the the pads/rotors. Other than that I agree, you only need to heat them up enough to get the any oil to smoke, a paint stripping heat gun will do that (or if the wife is out pop them under the grill LOL)
You really shouldn't be doing this indoors. Brake cleaner is a substance you shouldn't be breathing in. Alex did point this out, but you shouldn't be doing this indoors unless you are in an industrial environment.
Just clean disk with alcohol every time you clean your bike. Or do the whole process if there's actual problem with braking. But, yeah, cleaning disk alone is super easy and it's good to clean it just to be sure you didn't get anything in it during cleaning or during use.
Steel wool works wonders to give the break rotors that brush look, also removes etched marks. Don’t be too eager with sanding the pads, especially the resin type.
I just rub the 2 pad surfaces against each other under the tap, then for last couple of rubs add isopropyl nearly always works fine. Only time I use sandpaper is if I need to scuff up an old rotor after a clean to get the old pads to transfer onto them.
Nah, they are fine and i recommend it. I'm lucky enough to use v-brakes on 700x32/28 wheels, and i can tell you they are as good as the Shimano 105 if not better.
I specially recommend it if you do touring/bike packing, where i've had the pads wear out in the middle of a long descent (they were already thin when i started riding) and all i had to do was to remove the current pads and replace them with new ones (i packed a pair before leaving home). No fancy tools required, no spreading the pistons, no removal of the back wheel with a loaded bicycle... Just a multi-tool and a swiss army knife.
@@CyclingLifePT 100% I've never had problems with my rim brakes in any conditions but I also don't ride in rainy and muddy conditions often on the road or mtb. I do a lot of running in the winter instead or some Zwifting. I'm trying to qualify for Boston next so worksout great. Yeah, good story and so true. I miss just quickly replacing the cheaper and less faff rim pad. Lighter and so easy to adjust on the side of the road.
I've tried burning brake pads in the past and never found it produced satisfactory results. Also, if rotors have worn to the point of being out of spec they won't work well no matter what.
Did he just surgest burning brake part cleaner?!!! Heating chlorinated brake cleaners causes them to decompose and release hydrogen chloride and possibly even phosgene gas. To illustrate how serious that is, phsogene gas in the main component of mustard gas used in WW1.
I don't think little bit of alcohol actually heats those pads much, really it's only heat on the surface. Depends ofc on amount you use, but if you just spray so that item is bit wet, it should only be surface heat.
Break cleaning fluid is like the perfect cancer stimuli you should just not use it. Or that is what I'm thinking everytime I do 😉 But please do it outdoors!!!
After having squealing breaks I now clean the rotors with inexpensive automotive brake cleaner whenever I clean the chain. So far it seems to work. It only takes a minute or two. Always use a clean cloth.
I’ve stopped using sprays containing PTFE anywhere near my disc brake bike now. Apart from accidentally contaminating my pads with it, it’s also terrible for you if you breathe any of it in.
If you run a red when you didn't mean to, time to change them out. 😂 Seriously though: If they get too hot and go "straw/gold/bronze coloured" or warp due to heat = Trash (a few spots and/or a slight wobble that doesn't contact the pads or just brushes them slightly is usually ok to ride but think about replacing ASAP) If they just don't work well or sequel even with new pads and cleaning them doesn't help = Trash If they become warped/bent by physical means (not heat) enough they "bind up" in the caliper = Trash (slight warping that causes rub, but still allows the wheel to rotate can usually be trued) If the thickness falls below a certain level (usually 1.5 mm but check with your brand) = Trash
realize this comment will come well down on the list....; but this was really well done. Comprehesively covered so many great points and in such a way that the subject was completely handled by what you went through. Please continue to use the outlook you used here to construct vids like this in the future. You realy hit a presentation sweet spot here. (as in a note to producer/creater of content)!
Hey GCN Tech Gurus: Q: #ASKGCNTech - your cousins on GMBN have a vid in which ‘beautiful people’ Blake puts pipe insulation in his rear tyre as a cost cutting rear tyre insert! What? On a road bike too? Do tell …..
“Controlled environment” or not - lead by example, and please use some safety googles when you burn something that close and with a fuel as volatile as alcohol. Olli can tell you which specifically - lab-grade ones are not that expensive, and may save your eyesight. Or just your beard. Or use a butane burner for the kitchen, the ones used for creme brulee. You can also use them as a ersatz soldering torch, btw.
I use this method many times but make sure that you close disc brake cleaner atomizer and spread liquid only on pads!. I set my hand on fire once :) It`s not painfull but looks really scarry
So I did all - sanded down and wiping with brake cleaner both the pads and the rotors. I also cooked the pads in 250 °C for 30 min. in the oven. Stinked up whole apartment but thabkfully the stench faded away fairly quickly, including from the oven. None of this helped. What did help, but to an extent was submerging the pads in brake cleaner and leaving them to soak up overnight. Then I sanded them again and wiped off. They got stronger, but not as strong as the uncontaminated pair. I've also seen people soaking them with vinegar, but never tried it. Still I will give it a try with a blowtorch.
Please tell kids not to spray it a second time after setting it on fire once 💥 and not to stand face over it. On a funny Eyebrows are slow to regrow, but seriously there are no quick fixes for Burned skin, it’s disastrously hazardous. Also, missing the tip to cut the desired amount of sand paper, to use it sparingly, and mount sandpaper to a flat surface such as a board and figure the motion to keep both surface levelwise.
Wash rotors with clothing washing powder and put brake pads in oven for 10 minutes on grill. Been having issues with grip for months. Its now sorted and brake pad backing turned a nice bronze
Hey, it's helpful guide that can get more life out of brake pads and get brake performance to improve in many(but not all) cases. Everyone's brakes will be in different condition and everyone will have varying results.
@@alexpatonGCN Duh. Still, it isn't a complete video without testing the methods shown here. Either it worked or it did not and that is what people want to know.
Just watched the video, suddenly during a ride, after going through some standing surface water, and getting a shower from a passing car, my bike developed brake squeal, normal clean didn't work , tried doing it without fire first, reduced it by about 75%, tried again, with fire, and back to silent braking. Thought it was a crazy idea, but it worked for me, keep up the good and informative videos.
Sanding alone did not restore my brake pads as they were too contaminated. I put my gas grill on full whack and gave the pads like 10 minutes in there. Slightly sanded them afterwards, they are good as new. Supposedly, a pan on your stove works as good.
I would recommend a grinding stone in stead of paper. IMO fire doesn’t significantly aid the cleaning process however can cause deformation in the disc because of heat.
I've tried both putting discs on fire and in the oven. Putting them on fire, doesn't even raise the disc temperature to 50 C. Everything burns off faster than the disc gets hot.
I've seen a product call Squeal Out Disc Brake Anti Squeal used on youtube and it seems to work better then when i've tried ISO alcohol and sanding at home.
@@gcntech I did all the steps in the video except fire. The brakes work fine for 2-3 rides (not in rain) and then noise again. My discs have more discoloration than those in the video. Maybe time for new ones? Although their thickness is fine.
This is NOT something i would recommend lightheartedly. Isopropyl alcohol is highly flamable, and the vapours could create an explosive atmosphere. Also, a bicycle workshop is a place full of inflammable stuff and aerosols. If a cannister of Isopropyl alcohol bursts for some unfortunate reason, there ain't going to be enough time to use the fire-extinguisher to prevent an explosion. This is not OSHA approved at all. It's better to just use the products for what they were designed, spray your discs thoroughly and wipe them off with a clean cloth or some degreasing wipes.
Just happened to me right now: I was using a can of degreaser and the cap got slightly stuck and the vapors kept getting out through the nozzle but very slowly and inconspicuously. I had to shut the music off to realize there was a leak. Have i had an igntion source nearby and that would be all it would take for the can to (possibly) blow out.
If you are in the uk dont bother with sandpaper....get some sanding mesh from Toolstation. Much better in my experience to use as the layer of contaminated pad you remove does not clog into the paper but falls through the mesh
I can't help it. I must share that every time I watch one of the MANY videos on disc brake maintenance I always look over at my beautiful, rim brake bike...and smile. 😊
@@jefferycampbell2243 "my rim brakes have worn through my expensive carbon rims again . . . " ------>> You fell asleep gripping tightly on the brake levers, again, dreaming of disc brakes😆😅🤣😂
Smear a small dab of toothpaste across the rotor faces and ride. After a few good stops, rinse the works with your water bottle, ride/brake a bit more and repeat the rinse. Done.
Resin pads can be decontaminated by just braking them warm enough. It works perfectly with MT 200s for example, if you brake them to 250 to 300° C hill down (stainless steel gets brown to blue at this temp) the pads bite like new afterwards.
Do you have any tips on restoring your brakes? Ley us know in the comments!👇
Do not set fire to them. What complete nonsense!
Do not use sandpaper on your discs.
Just clean with brake cleaner and the newly faced pad will do any abrading needed
Don't light quality brake cleaner on fire. Genuine brands are heptane or chlorinated which is instant cancer. Its what the Chinese clean phones with and those works die after 3 years while working with fume hoods and respirators without even lighting it on fire.
Muccoff is just acetone and ethanol according to the safety sheet, ie its degreaser not even brake cleaner.
Yes sand your discs if you've cooked them (glazed) and they look super shiney, polished or blue coloured. Ideally use a wire wheel instead that won't actually remove any material
Fixing contaminated pads is simple:
Simply put them in the oven ... on edge ... not face down or up, at 350F / 175C for about 30 minutes. Grab the pad with a pair of pliers so you don't burn your fingers, and wipe the friction surface with a clean, white paper towel. It will leave a greasy mark on the white paper towel. Set them back in the oven immediately after wiping (on edge again), and pull them out again and wipe with a clean white paper towel again. Repeat this until the paper towel is still clean after wiping the friction surface (might require 3-5 wipes, once every 15 minutes or so). Voila -- pad will function as new.
No chemicals, no setting anything on fire. Just heat and wipe until clean.
Agree completely with Martin Long: simply clean the brake disc... no sanding or anything else (unless the disc has "ding" on it or something like that, which can be cleaned up with a small file).
just one wear safety glasses when using brake cleaner as someone who got a bit sprayed in my eye that is not a fun experience thank goodness my shop had an eyewash station.
Flame torch works best. You just need to flame the pads till they are not smoking anymore. For the rotors I use rough sand paper and just scuff them up. Works every time 😎
Agreed. Skip all the toxic chemicals and go straight to the fire!
Flame torch sounds fun 😄
@@gcntech blow torch* 😅
I find acetone (nail varnish remover) works better than cleaner or alcohol.
Actually the best stuff Is M.E.K. (industrial paint thinner) but its more expensive and rather nasty stuff.
I wouldn't advise lighting flammable liquids on fire, a heat gun, blow torch (or the grill if the wife's not home) will get them hot enough to smoke off any oil in a controlled way. But if you must do this method do it outside and PLEASE take OFF the gloves you have just handled the liquid with, if they catch on fire they will melt on your hands before you manage to get them off.
I can't believe they are telling anyone to light flammables. So much can go wrong there. Good point removing the gloves.
I’ve used the sandpaper (600 grit) method on my new SRAM Code brakes before installing as a means to “break in” and marry the disc and pads together. I feel it makes the brakes quieter and efficient from the first ride.
I have diamond stones for sharpening tools, just a flat rub on those and a bit of window cleaner or alcohol to wipe the residue off. Far more effective and flat, with no explosions. If you don’t have stones, you can tape sandpaper to a flat surface like a tile, will also work pretty well.
You mean like Japanese whetstones for sharpening knives?
I prefer to use a white or light coloured cleaning cloth, rather than a black one like the one Alex used. That way, if a section of your cleaning cloth has some contaminants/dirt/grease on it from your cleaning, you will clearly see it and thus avoid that section of the cleaning cloth on the next stage of your cleaning process.
Good tip!
See, that's why toilet paper is white instead of brown. 😁
Be cautious with using fire to clean bonded components. Heat can soften the adhesive and de-bond components. I prefer alcohol and a fine grit sand paper for brake pad cleaning. Alcohol only for rotor surfaces.
Acetone works quite well for brake rotors. You have to be careful with alcohol based solvents as much of the time they contain other substances. A cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol should work well.
What a lot of faffing around , i just wash my wheels and brake pads with warm soapy water , no problem s , .. oh hold on silly me I am still using rim brakes.. 😂
Kudos for being willing to present some non-standard techniques using fire! FWIW: My recommendation is to burn contamination out of the brake pads with a propane or butane torch and then sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper, no solvents needed and much higher heat. Then sand the rotor surface fairly aggressively with 80 grit paper also before cleaning with brake cleaner. This method works about 80% of the time,, though less consistenly with organic pads than with metal pads.
Another bunch of furphies and half-truths:
firstly, spray disc brake cleaner is toxic in nearly all its formulations, as well as putting an unnecessary empty pressurised can into the waste stream. You breathe it in, you elevate your cancer risk. Use isopropanol or in dire straits, acetone, wiped on and off.
Secondly, you cannot decontaminate brake pads of brake fluid by setting them on fire, putting them in an oven, soaking them in metho then setting them on fire, or any variations on the theme. If you can't abrade the glaze and contaminants off the surface (& use a cement block or piece of smooth concrete to do it as they're flatter) of the pad, it's time for new ones. Brake pads have an open resin structure that acts like a sponge, and only cleanliness will stop them degrading quickly. GCN Tech, lift your game.
That's why rim brakes rock
A lot of unnecessary steps, for example, cleaning the pads before sanding them. Why would you do that? Simple sand the pads, wipe them with a clean cloth, sand them with the finer paper and in the very end (maybe) use some brake cleaner. And do NOT use fire especially not to light extremely flammable gases inside. There could easily form an explosive flame if you have used too much or you're in a small room etc.
I do agree 100% with you
And take off your gloves if you use fire!!
If you sand first you risk grinding surface contaminants into the the pads/rotors. Other than that I agree, you only need to heat them up enough to get the any oil to smoke, a paint stripping heat gun will do that (or if the wife is out pop them under the grill LOL)
You really shouldn't be doing this indoors. Brake cleaner is a substance you shouldn't be breathing in. Alex did point this out, but you shouldn't be doing this indoors unless you are in an industrial environment.
@@chris1275cc you can even just pour boiling water on it to wash away oil. Boiling water acts like a degreaser.
You never had to do any of this with rim brakes. Can you believe this idiot didn't remove his gloves before lighting the fire?😦
So, did somebody copy those fingerprints already and going to impersonate Alex?
Just clean disk with alcohol every time you clean your bike. Or do the whole process if there's actual problem with braking. But, yeah, cleaning disk alone is super easy and it's good to clean it just to be sure you didn't get anything in it during cleaning or during use.
Steel wool works wonders to give the break rotors that brush look, also removes etched marks. Don’t be too eager with sanding the pads, especially the resin type.
I just rub the 2 pad surfaces against each other under the tap, then for last couple of rubs add isopropyl nearly always works fine. Only time I use sandpaper is if I need to scuff up an old rotor after a clean to get the old pads to transfer onto them.
Goggles are good when spraying disk brake cleaner. Or just get rim brakes and be even safer.
I had brake cleaner spray into my eyes one time.....and one time was enough 😂It's a horrible experience.
Great shout Brian!
Alex, the Jimi Hendrix of the cycling world haha
the Jimi Hendrix of the cycling world needs to rock an Afro, which is not available at the GCN merch store, has to grow his own
The Keith Flint of the cycling world - He’s a twisted fire starter! 😂
He can do it behind his head too! 🤣
Doing all this and worrying about brake fluid etc makes me miss rim brakes...
Rim brakes are pretty much dead in the water unfortunately.
Rim Brakes in winter 😬
Nah, they are fine and i recommend it. I'm lucky enough to use v-brakes on 700x32/28 wheels, and i can tell you they are as good as the Shimano 105 if not better.
I specially recommend it if you do touring/bike packing, where i've had the pads wear out in the middle of a long descent (they were already thin when i started riding) and all i had to do was to remove the current pads and replace them with new ones (i packed a pair before leaving home). No fancy tools required, no spreading the pistons, no removal of the back wheel with a loaded bicycle... Just a multi-tool and a swiss army knife.
@@CyclingLifePT 100%
I've never had problems with my rim brakes in any conditions but I also don't ride in rainy and muddy conditions often on the road or mtb.
I do a lot of running in the winter instead or some Zwifting.
I'm trying to qualify for Boston next so worksout great.
Yeah, good story and so true.
I miss just quickly replacing the cheaper and less faff rim pad.
Lighter and so easy to adjust on the side of the road.
I've tried burning brake pads in the past and never found it produced satisfactory results. Also, if rotors have worn to the point of being out of spec they won't work well no matter what.
Good note, Worth checking your rotors for wear ! 🔎
you had me until you said that you don't have to set it on fire every time. Fire good! More fire better!
#GCN does eyebrow removal 🔥
How many watts it save?
Did he just surgest burning brake part cleaner?!!! Heating chlorinated brake cleaners causes them to decompose and release hydrogen chloride and possibly even phosgene gas. To illustrate how serious that is, phsogene gas in the main component of mustard gas used in WW1.
Nowadays the discs are SANDWICHED, with alu in the middle, steel on the outside.
Setting up fire to your disc will have them crooked!!
I don't think little bit of alcohol actually heats those pads much, really it's only heat on the surface. Depends ofc on amount you use, but if you just spray so that item is bit wet, it should only be surface heat.
That fire trick is cool and all, but man watch out so you don't set your rubberised gloves on fire. Melting rubber/plastics to yourself is horrid.
👍
Is this process compatible with Resin Pads as well.
Or only for Metalic and Organic Pads
5:35 oh Lord, where are the safety goggles!?
Help I’ve fired new pads to disc brakes. Re lined the callipers and they are screaching like mad
No.
Just no.
Omg...indoors.
No.
Steevo told you to do this after takening a wift?
over the top cleaning
GCN you didn’t you think about this. Aerosol, cleaners and flames don’t mix. Peeps either forget, don’t know or are just careless.
Save money and buy disc brake cleaner from the automotive stores BUT always use chlorine free cleaner to avoid burning thorough your seals.
Break cleaning fluid is like the perfect cancer stimuli you should just not use it. Or that is what I'm thinking everytime I do 😉
But please do it outdoors!!!
So glad I've gone back to Rim brakes
....what faffing around
I think your camera is focused on the background rather than Alex.
After having squealing breaks I now clean the rotors with inexpensive automotive brake cleaner whenever I clean the chain. So far it seems to work. It only takes a minute or two. Always use a clean cloth.
Great to hear, keep that bike as clean as a whistle!
I did this until i bought rotor protectors (muc off), less fafing and I less chemicals
only thing you forgot to mention (or I missed it) is that you have to break them in after doing this
I’ve stopped using sprays containing PTFE anywhere near my disc brake bike now. Apart from accidentally contaminating my pads with it, it’s also terrible for you if you breathe any of it in.
We solve problems, we didn't had witg rim brakes
Can you swap out a hub on a carbon rim? #askgcntech
Yes, done this a couple of times to get more life out of the brake pads. It works. Be careful with the fire you can overcook it... I did that.
Always got to be carful with fire 😳
How do you know when your rotors are trash?
If you run a red when you didn't mean to, time to change them out. 😂
Seriously though:
If they get too hot and go "straw/gold/bronze coloured" or warp due to heat = Trash (a few spots and/or a slight wobble that doesn't contact the pads or just brushes them slightly is usually ok to ride but think about replacing ASAP)
If they just don't work well or sequel even with new pads and cleaning them doesn't help = Trash
If they become warped/bent by physical means (not heat) enough they "bind up" in the caliper = Trash (slight warping that causes rub, but still allows the wheel to rotate can usually be trued)
If the thickness falls below a certain level (usually 1.5 mm but check with your brand) = Trash
Boil it in water
Easy cheap and 100% effect
realize this comment will come well down on the list....; but this was really well done. Comprehesively covered so many great points and in such a way that the subject was completely handled by what you went through. Please continue to use the outlook you used here to construct vids like this in the future. You realy hit a presentation sweet spot here. (as in a note to producer/creater of content)!
Thanks Dave! Appreciate the comment! Glad you enjoyed the video, hope it helped 🙌
Is the health and safety officer on holiday?
Hey GCN Tech Gurus: Q: #ASKGCNTech - your cousins on GMBN have a vid in which ‘beautiful people’ Blake puts pipe insulation in his rear tyre as a cost cutting rear tyre insert! What? On a road bike too? Do tell …..
“Controlled environment” or not - lead by example, and please use some safety googles when you burn something that close and with a fuel as volatile as alcohol. Olli can tell you which specifically - lab-grade ones are not that expensive, and may save your eyesight. Or just your beard.
Or use a butane burner for the kitchen, the ones used for creme brulee.
You can also use them as a ersatz soldering torch, btw.
Never used googles on my beard before, got to give it a try
I use this method many times but make sure that you close disc brake cleaner atomizer and spread liquid only on pads!. I set my hand on fire once :) It`s not painfull but looks really scarry
Oooo stay safe!
Do the brake pads have to be metal to use fire or can you fire organic pads as well?
I've tried with organic pads and it worked just fine.
Rim brake wa#kers, start your rant…GO!
we want to start our rant, but the disc brake rubbing noise is unbearable, maybe next time
I can't hear you over the sound of how much cheaper my rim brakes are to operate.
So I did all - sanded down and wiping with brake cleaner both the pads and the rotors. I also cooked the pads in 250 °C for 30 min. in the oven. Stinked up whole apartment but thabkfully the stench faded away fairly quickly, including from the oven. None of this helped. What did help, but to an extent was submerging the pads in brake cleaner and leaving them to soak up overnight. Then I sanded them again and wiped off. They got stronger, but not as strong as the uncontaminated pair. I've also seen people soaking them with vinegar, but never tried it. Still I will give it a try with a blowtorch.
Please tell kids not to spray it a second time after setting it on fire once 💥 and not to stand face over it.
On a funny Eyebrows are slow to regrow, but seriously there are no quick fixes for Burned skin, it’s disastrously hazardous.
Also, missing the tip to cut the desired amount of sand paper, to use it sparingly, and mount sandpaper to a flat surface such as a board and figure the motion to keep both surface levelwise.
Wash rotors with clothing washing powder and put brake pads in oven for 10 minutes on grill. Been having issues with grip for months. Its now sorted and brake pad backing turned a nice bronze
What is the point of the video if you don't mount these into a bike and see if the results were worth it?
Hey, it's helpful guide that can get more life out of brake pads and get brake performance to improve in many(but not all) cases. Everyone's brakes will be in different condition and everyone will have varying results.
@@alexpatonGCN Duh. Still, it isn't a complete video without testing the methods shown here. Either it worked or it did not and that is what people want to know.
Next video, breaking test using those brakes and pads at front vs same model New vs same model Used!
Good idea! Should we follow this video up?
Pretty sure brake cleaner isn't flamable in liquid form only gas form. So those cute flames? useless.
BODGE!!!!!!!
Just watched the video, suddenly during a ride, after going through some standing surface water, and getting a shower from a passing car, my bike developed brake squeal, normal clean didn't work , tried doing it without fire first, reduced it by about 75%, tried again, with fire, and back to silent braking. Thought it was a crazy idea, but it worked for me, keep up the good and informative videos.
My dentist used his dental sand blaster on my pads. Worked like a charm. Then I used isopropyl on the disk.
My e bike only have one side of the rotor show blue heat mark, but the other side is fine. Any ideas why?
Sanding alone did not restore my brake pads as they were too contaminated. I put my gas grill on full whack and gave the pads like 10 minutes in there. Slightly sanded them afterwards, they are good as new. Supposedly, a pan on your stove works as good.
Great! Thanks for watching our video, glad you could bring the pads back to life 💪
GCN: Revive Disc Brakes!
Rim Brakes: Wow! Died so soon?
I use the fire method on occasion, but put a brick under the tray to avoid burning your wooden table / workbench
Great suggestion!
Thanks Alex mine need doing, what grade sandpaper please.
Cheap pads cleaning: acetone and toothbrush
who else was expecting Alex to whip out a kebab 😂
Holding the brake pad so close to your mouth will make it CONTAMINATED with your aero sols. 🙊🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
That's a while new level of keeping things clean! Haha
Which grit sand papers did you use?
I would recommend a grinding stone in stead of paper. IMO fire doesn’t significantly aid the cleaning process however can cause deformation in the disc because of heat.
I've tried both putting discs on fire and in the oven. Putting them on fire, doesn't even raise the disc temperature to 50 C. Everything burns off faster than the disc gets hot.
@@ernestasl thanks for the input
I've seen a product call Squeal Out Disc Brake Anti Squeal used on youtube and it seems to work better then when i've tried ISO alcohol and sanding at home.
Good suggestion, I will keep an eye out for that too.
Contaminated my pads with mineral oil when was a newb on bleeding, washed with warm dish soap then put them on-top of the stove
Did it work? 🔎
Somehow my pads get glazed every time after sanding. A bit weiird…
I also noticed that. Maybe they need "brake in" like when you get new ones. Any advice?
Have you tried cleaning the rotors? 🤔
@@gcntech I did all the steps in the video except fire. The brakes work fine for 2-3 rides (not in rain) and then noise again. My discs have more discoloration than those in the video. Maybe time for new ones? Although their thickness is fine.
Thanks Alex, set fire to my pads and it worked a treat!
This is NOT something i would recommend lightheartedly. Isopropyl alcohol is highly flamable, and the vapours could create an explosive atmosphere. Also, a bicycle workshop is a place full of inflammable stuff and aerosols. If a cannister of Isopropyl alcohol bursts for some unfortunate reason, there ain't going to be enough time to use the fire-extinguisher to prevent an explosion. This is not OSHA approved at all.
It's better to just use the products for what they were designed, spray your discs thoroughly and wipe them off with a clean cloth or some degreasing wipes.
Just happened to me right now: I was using a can of degreaser and the cap got slightly stuck and the vapors kept getting out through the nozzle but very slowly and inconspicuously. I had to shut the music off to realize there was a leak. Have i had an igntion source nearby and that would be all it would take for the can to (possibly) blow out.
Fitted even
So Sandpaper 101, Alex, what grits of sandpaper do you suggest for this?
If you are in the uk dont bother with sandpaper....get some sanding mesh from Toolstation. Much better in my experience to use as the layer of contaminated pad you remove does not clog into the paper but falls through the mesh
In the past, I used (80) as rough sandpaper and (200) as fine sandpaper.
I can't help it. I must share that every time I watch one of the MANY videos on disc brake maintenance I always look over at my beautiful, rim brake bike...and smile. 😊
Hahah sticking it to disc break brigade 🙌
@@gcntech 🤭
God job
GCN Tech: How To Restore Your Disc Brake Rotors & Pads With Fire!?
Ordinary Folks: Return to Rim Brakes!
Rim brake folks: Damn, my rim brakes have worn through my expensive carbon rims again...
@@jefferycampbell2243 "my rim brakes have worn through my expensive carbon rims again . . . " ------>> You fell asleep gripping tightly on the brake levers, again, dreaming of disc brakes😆😅🤣😂
@@jefferycampbell2243 Tip: Don't buy carbon rims.
Smear a small dab of toothpaste across the rotor faces and ride. After a few good stops, rinse the works with your water bottle, ride/brake a bit more and repeat the rinse. Done.
Resin pads can be decontaminated by just braking them warm enough. It works perfectly with MT 200s for example, if you brake them to 250 to 300° C hill down (stainless steel gets brown to blue at this temp) the pads bite like new afterwards.
Sometimes they are beyond the breaking technique 😔