Guillaume Darius Just what I wanted to say: Great commenting, funny, authentic and they really know what they're talking about; at least I think they do ;-)
If you require "control" of the final hold, then Minoru should have had that top all day. There was absolutely no question that he was in full control. It absolutely requires more control to repeatedly touch and release a hold with your second hand than having two hands steadily on the hold. Absolutely give him a warning on that when he comes down, and tell him to make sure he checks for the send before coming down in the future, but if you are going to call it "control", you can't take the top away from him after the control he displayed up there. He was up there securely on the hold for awhile, and clearly could have stayed for quite awhile longer.
Excellent World Cup, chairs breaking, timers stopping :) BUT definitely good routes, loved the commentary by Leah Crane and Josh Larson. Thank you IFSC
we really like having climbers do the commentary during the comps. they bring a great perspective. also the haiyang comp was noticeably better than others in terms of video and production quality. keep up the good work! (i, personally, would rather have a high quality video the day after the comp than a low quality live stream)
Really nothing better than watching some bouldering while drinking coffee in the morning. Also... Takes time for higher qualities to upload guys. Take it easy.
Derfoklishe They can't help lower quality versions being available first; that's how TH-cam works. They would have to make the video Private until the HD finished processing... which means we wouldn't get to see it for like another 6 to 12 hours for a video this long.
Thank you for not trying to stream this one and just uploading it. Infinitely better then the last comp. The boulders looked pretty crazy but a great watch nonetheless!
I want to take a second to say that it has been a really fun event to watch so far. (I'm only at 1:03:09, right after the MInoru misstep.) My comments have almost exclusively been critical on the production or officiating thus far, but I really have been enjoying watching the bouldering. The routes have been quite well done in all of the events I've watched. I don't think there has been a single route where no one topped. It has been a really good mix. It's been fun to watch really strong climbers dominate a route while others fail, only to see it change to the exact opposite on the next route. The routes have done a great job of really highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of climbers. Keep improving the quality and you should have a great year in 2016.
Can you guys please consider changing the rules about the double match? Sometimes you get people winning a bloc by matching their fingertips from a lower hold (not control) and then you disqualify a guy who had 100% control of the hold (Minoru Nakano). I know he sent the problem, you know he sent the problem, he knows he sent the problem. Give him credit for sending the problem.
Adrian MacNair No. Rules are rules. Even if they match a top with their fingertips and their legs are holding all the weight and it's what keeps them in the wal l they still are in control.
Homunculus Jeeperzs And yet Nakano could have done one-armed pullups off the last hold. Some judicial discretion is called for in this case to say, yes he had absolute control of the final hold, he touched it with both hands, and let's not be silly about this. The man completed the problem.
yes i know it's silly. he completed the problem and had control but the rules are not only those. you also have to match. he didnt match. there are rules in every sport and you wont like all of them.
Homunculus Jeeperzs There is also a rule about 3 seconds and not many climbers follow it. And judges don't mind somehow. Because they decide that there was a control before 3 seconds pass. So this time it should have been the same decision because the control was obvious.
no more of that frustration not able to watch both of the climbers on the same screen..i thing you do it on purpose, just to stress us out!! 90%of the time we are not able to see a top in its totality...we miss the start, we miss the top.... WE DON'T CARE ABOUT HAVING THE BEST CAMERA ANGLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WE JUST WANT TO SEE AAAAALLLLLLLLL THE ATEMPTS BY AAAAALLLLL THE CLIMERS!!! SPLIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT THE SCREEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
It is too bad the overhang on M4 was so far. Ondra's power scream during the campus to the double foot was really awesome, and I was hoping he would conquer it with that. That said, this was a really fun comp to watch with some cool routes.
good route setting, looked very challenging and the hot conditions made everyone work so hard. nice job with the commenting. Shame about the bad music choice at the event, must have put the climbers off.
so what do we learn about the ifsc rules ? when the hold is too small its allowed to touch it with a finger tip (absolutely two hand control for sure) , but when its big enough, you have to hold it with every other part of the hand. what about switching hands on a spax top hold to count the top ? that would be a really nice rule...-.-
Homunculus Jeeperzs because the others are even better on tiny holds? rustam probably weights 2/3 of jan, it seems natural that he can hold onto smaller stuff.
absolutely stupid to dont count the top of nakano. nearly everybody just puts his fingertips to the top hold or just hold it for a second followed by a one arm pull up. when someone is able to clap für 6,7 times at a hold with ease, he topped the boulder.
I also notice now in 2018 I didn't see him in the comps...so I hope that bad beat didn't affect his enthusiasm, because he is/was obviously extremely talented.
I disapprove of those additional matresses layed out benath the climbs. If you're unlucky, you hit the edge of one with a foot when falling and hurt your ankle quite badly.
Claus Scherschel I'm sure they were placed so the center of them were at the most likely place to land. They are also quite thin. I'd much rather land on the edge of them than in the gap between two matts.
Wardog11111 Yes, I got the explanation a bit further into the broadcast. My point was less about controlled jumping but accidential falling. I think, neither having gaps nor having matresses covering them is a good solution. .
Will be great when Ondra is done with university.. you can tell that fulltime school has divided his time enough to show in his climbing.. a theory anyways...
doppelcorn1 The first three climbs were very well set. The last one was just a bit too difficult. The goal when setting routes for finals is to create separation in the field. If you have everyone topping, then the routesetters have not done their job. Conversely, if you have no one topping, then the routesetters still have not done their job. 75% isn't the worst grade, though obviously not the best. The first three problems created separation in the field, which shows you who the clear winners are.
Am I the only one who is bothered by the male commentator saying "Do you think she braids her own hair, or do you think someone else braided it for her" after the Japanese climber made it on her first try. And the female commentator saying "I think she did it on her own because Japanese girls are really good with doing their hair" or something like that. SERIOUSLY? SERIOUSLY??????? I thought I am watching a bouldering competition.
+nikhil simha Unfortunately, this is still ten times better than usual. Commentary in Vail was horrendous. At least we have two experienced climbers here who can give some reasonable and useful insight into the routes and climbers. The male commentator in Vail-or was it when he commentated in Toronto?-straight up said on live broadcast that he, as one of the two announcers for the event, doesn't know very much about the sport. He proved that statement to be spot-on throughout both the Vail and Toronto events. It is too bad given how entertaining and interesting the sport is. If they tried a little harder I think they could make these broadcasts really amazing. There are just too many technical difficulties and deficiencies in commentary. Maybe in a year or two it'll all come together.
+nikhil simha It's a niche sport and I suspect these aren't professional commentators. I doubt there is the budget to plough the millions into production that you see in mainstream sports. I kind of like it. Mainstream sports are all about money. That corrupts sportsmanship and it adds sensationalism, because it sells. You wouldn't get them joking about broken chairs in football. The commentators seemed knowledgeable enough and that's what's important.
Leah Crane (UK) who just missed out on the Finals and Josh Larson (US) are commenting. Two top climbers commenting : I like that ! Thanks IFSC !
Guillaume Darius Just what I wanted to say: Great commenting, funny, authentic and they really know what they're talking about; at least I think they do ;-)
If you require "control" of the final hold, then Minoru should have had that top all day. There was absolutely no question that he was in full control. It absolutely requires more control to repeatedly touch and release a hold with your second hand than having two hands steadily on the hold.
Absolutely give him a warning on that when he comes down, and tell him to make sure he checks for the send before coming down in the future, but if you are going to call it "control", you can't take the top away from him after the control he displayed up there. He was up there securely on the hold for awhile, and clearly could have stayed for quite awhile longer.
Excellent World Cup, chairs breaking, timers stopping :) BUT definitely good routes, loved the commentary by Leah Crane and Josh Larson. Thank you IFSC
we really like having climbers do the commentary during the comps. they bring a great perspective. also the haiyang comp was noticeably better than others in terms of video and production quality. keep up the good work! (i, personally, would rather have a high quality video the day after the comp than a low quality live stream)
much agreed!
Really nothing better than watching some bouldering while drinking coffee in the morning.
Also... Takes time for higher qualities to upload guys. Take it easy.
Derfoklishe They can't help lower quality versions being available first; that's how TH-cam works. They would have to make the video Private until the HD finished processing... which means we wouldn't get to see it for like another 6 to 12 hours for a video this long.
HaploBartow I know, that's what I said
Derfoklishe Sounds awesome, I could watch it anytime of day!!
Thank you IFSC. Great having fellow climbers as commentators and much better video work and overall quality this time.
Is this a sarcasm?...@.@
Good, but sometimes I feel like they haven't been watching the previous attempts !
This is great filming, the split screen is so much better than the old system of filming.
Peter Korotaev Wish it would have been continued for the whole comp :(
Climbing starts at 18:50
Entertaining commentary, thanks Leah and Josh - great job!
Best commentating I've heard in awhile. Leah Crane is enjoyable to listen to.
damn. Nakano was robbed on problem 2! that was a real send in any book.
Thank you for not trying to stream this one and just uploading it. Infinitely better then the last comp. The boulders looked pretty crazy but a great watch nonetheless!
Josh, Leah, great comments. So much better when we have 2 real climbers commenting,
Actual climbers as commentators? The best!
1:47:08 - patented Adam Ondra power scream heard all the way back through the commentators mic. LOVE that guy.
I want to take a second to say that it has been a really fun event to watch so far. (I'm only at 1:03:09, right after the MInoru misstep.) My comments have almost exclusively been critical on the production or officiating thus far, but I really have been enjoying watching the bouldering. The routes have been quite well done in all of the events I've watched. I don't think there has been a single route where no one topped. It has been a really good mix. It's been fun to watch really strong climbers dominate a route while others fail, only to see it change to the exact opposite on the next route. The routes have done a great job of really highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of climbers.
Keep improving the quality and you should have a great year in 2016.
thank you for taking over the commentating. the previous three videos were killing me…
Can you guys please consider changing the rules about the double match? Sometimes you get people winning a bloc by matching their fingertips from a lower hold (not control) and then you disqualify a guy who had 100% control of the hold (Minoru Nakano). I know he sent the problem, you know he sent the problem, he knows he sent the problem. Give him credit for sending the problem.
Adrian MacNair No. Rules are rules. Even if they match a top with their fingertips and their legs are holding all the weight and it's what keeps them in the wal l they still are in control.
Homunculus Jeeperzs And yet Nakano could have done one-armed pullups off the last hold. Some judicial discretion is called for in this case to say, yes he had absolute control of the final hold, he touched it with both hands, and let's not be silly about this. The man completed the problem.
yes i know it's silly. he completed the problem and had control but the rules are not only those. you also have to match. he didnt match. there are rules in every sport and you wont like all of them.
Most of all you have to wait for the judge to say "OK", before coming down. This is not complicated to do, but Minoru Nakano failed.
Homunculus Jeeperzs There is also a rule about 3 seconds and not many climbers follow it. And judges don't mind somehow. Because they decide that there was a control before 3 seconds pass. So this time it should have been the same decision because the control was obvious.
thank you for the great quality !
41:45 Ondra although very talented is a certifiable spaz.
Thankfully this is much better footage than last time out in China!
More Leah Crane for commentary. Great voice and insights to listen to.
Thanks for the upload!
Go Klingler go!
That was so much better then the video last week.
Good commenting and video quality. Nice return to form after Chongqing. Keep it up.
no more of that frustration not able to watch both of the climbers on the same screen..i thing you do it on purpose, just to stress us out!!
90%of the time we are not able to see a top in its totality...we miss the start, we miss the top....
WE DON'T CARE ABOUT HAVING THE BEST CAMERA ANGLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WE JUST WANT TO SEE AAAAALLLLLLLLL THE ATEMPTS BY AAAAALLLLL THE CLIMERS!!!
SPLIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT THE SCREEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
Yann Puzenat and sorry for the spelling....too much stress may be.lol
Very good camera work :) Keep it up this way :)
Nice commentating by Leah and Josh.
It is too bad the overhang on M4 was so far. Ondra's power scream during the campus to the double foot was really awesome, and I was hoping he would conquer it with that. That said, this was a really fun comp to watch with some cool routes.
Ahora si pues IFSC... NIVEL OLÍMPICO!!!
amazing 'foot dyno' from Miho at 1:21:35
These routes were nuts, Would have loved to see how M4 would have played out.
Anyone knows what's the song playing when Rustam is climbing the last boulder at 2:16:00?
Does anyone know what grades the boulders are for the world cups?
jan logic: cant stuck on this hold, I might skip it.
good route setting, looked very challenging and the hot conditions made everyone work so hard.
nice job with the commenting.
Shame about the bad music choice at the event, must have put the climbers off.
Minoru is always getting screwed
so what do we learn about the ifsc rules ? when the hold is too small its allowed to touch it with a finger tip (absolutely two hand control for sure) , but when its big enough, you have to hold it with every other part of the hand. what about switching hands on a spax top hold to count the top ? that would be a really nice rule...-.-
Bubba Sparkxx - heat it up!!!
Actual climbing starts around the 18:50 mark.
Watching the technical difficulty, then release this is a youtube video.. :D
They seem to be having some trouble with the name graphics....
Where is jule wurm
Havent seen her in the last comps
Nakano matched it, who cares if the match took the form of multiple bitch slaps??
These were some tough problems. I tweaked a back muscle watching it.
Why isn't Juliane Wurm competing in the world cups in China?
Why does it look like Shaun only has 3 fingers on her right hand at 2:09:51 ?
Oh really....
Tell me more about the chairs
Were they commenting inside of an arcade? That background noise is driving me nuts.
why the commentators keeps saying jan weakness are crimps?? havent they seen his training video? he's a monster... (9 campus)
Homunculus Jeeperzs because the others are even better on tiny holds? rustam probably weights 2/3 of jan, it seems natural that he can hold onto smaller stuff.
absolutely stupid to dont count the top of nakano. nearly everybody just puts his fingertips to the top hold or just hold it for a second followed by a one arm pull up. when someone is able to clap für 6,7 times at a hold with ease, he topped the boulder.
I agree! That was BS and makes IFSC look bad.
agree
I also notice now in 2018 I didn't see him in the comps...so I hope that bad beat didn't affect his enthusiasm, because he is/was obviously extremely talented.
boulder 2 looks so ridiculously difficult. can you imagine doing that for real on a rock where you really don't want to fall off?
Massive praise to IFSC for an equal gender commentary.
20:09 "a flash on the first go" lol
Nicolas Vallée Sure it wasnt the third? :)
Acceptera That doesn't make any sende either huh ? :D
Nicolas Vallée Heh, she probably meant "first go" as in "first problem".
Nicolas Vallée worry about yourself and not other people because that is not something a normal, healthy person would comment on.
Jan Soltek I just thought i was funny, calm down creep!
Chon!?!?!? Is that who i think they're talking about?
At last really decent commentary and filming! For once everyone commentating actually climbs
wow..........
Shauna's F4 was sick.
360p ... seriously? :D
AspirinC When uploading a video, the lower qualities are uploaded first. HD will be available soon.
2 hours 19 minutes naruto ost ayyy lmao
Umm. I’m pretty sure no one calls them piggy back holds in America lol I’m pretty sure it’s screw ons...
clock made in china
awww, Minoru get penalized for smacking the finish, and then Akiyo asks if she can use the other route rocks.
I disapprove of those additional matresses layed out benath the climbs. If you're unlucky, you hit the edge of one with a foot when falling and hurt your ankle quite badly.
Claus Scherschel I'm sure they were placed so the center of them were at the most likely place to land. They are also quite thin. I'd much rather land on the edge of them than in the gap between two matts.
Wardog11111 Yes, I got the explanation a bit further into the broadcast. My point was less about controlled jumping but accidential falling. I think, neither having gaps nor having matresses covering them is a good solution. .
Claus Scherschel Yeah I agree
Minoru topped. That's bs.
2:17:20 are they really playing naruto opening music?? xD
19:07 did she really says.. "double hand job?" :D
Danpyo 2g No that's your mind, she said 'double hand jump' haha
Danpyo 2g 27:15 "Is that a fist? Is she _fisting_ against the volume?"
"Katerina is sitting on the floor." Amazing announcer.
2:17:20
do you hear the Naruto music hahaha
Omg really?! That's so cool!!
Will be great when Ondra is done with university.. you can tell that fulltime school has divided his time enough to show in his climbing.. a theory anyways...
He's a big goody giraffe
Adam uses chalk in observation. Interesting.
Merc sl for sale scotland
Akio @ 1:11:50 hahaha
Big lesson my ass. He understands damn well, Nakano was robbed.
TROUBLE WAS CAUSED AT THE FOOD COURT
1:11:24 Hahahahaha well played
1:01:41 omg what a stupid referees... its obv he made it wtf!!!
7 Tops for 6 Male competitors out of 4 problems... not the best routesetting ever. But interesting to watch anyway
doppelcorn1 The first three climbs were very well set. The last one was just a bit too difficult.
The goal when setting routes for finals is to create separation in the field. If you have everyone topping, then the routesetters have not done their job. Conversely, if you have no one topping, then the routesetters still have not done their job.
75% isn't the worst grade, though obviously not the best. The first three problems created separation in the field, which shows you who the clear winners are.
The chemistry between the two commentators here is hilariously lacking....Turn off the sound and crank up some music for this one.
The women only completed those cuz she respected the method n the method respected her so there fore she is not better then my gender lmao
Am I the only one who is bothered by the male commentator saying "Do you think she braids her own hair, or do you think someone else braided it for her" after the Japanese climber made it on her first try. And the female commentator saying "I think she did it on her own because Japanese girls are really good with doing their hair" or something like that. SERIOUSLY? SERIOUSLY??????? I thought I am watching a bouldering competition.
yeah that was a few seconds chat over a 2,30 hours competition so get over it.
@@daniele4172 there was also repeated mention of all Japanese climbers being flexible from yoga...
great climbing, mediocre commentary :-/
+nikhil simha Unfortunately, this is still ten times better than usual. Commentary in Vail was horrendous. At least we have two experienced climbers here who can give some reasonable and useful insight into the routes and climbers. The male commentator in Vail-or was it when he commentated in Toronto?-straight up said on live broadcast that he, as one of the two announcers for the event, doesn't know very much about the sport. He proved that statement to be spot-on throughout both the Vail and Toronto events.
It is too bad given how entertaining and interesting the sport is. If they tried a little harder I think they could make these broadcasts really amazing. There are just too many technical difficulties and deficiencies in commentary. Maybe in a year or two it'll all come together.
+nikhil simha It's a niche sport and I suspect these aren't professional commentators. I doubt there is the budget to plough the millions into production that you see in mainstream sports.
I kind of like it. Mainstream sports are all about money. That corrupts sportsmanship and it adds sensationalism, because it sells. You wouldn't get them joking about broken chairs in football. The commentators seemed knowledgeable enough and that's what's important.
+nikhil simha I thought the commentary was great!
The worst comp I have watched, infuriating judging. If the IOC saw this it would be game over.