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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2015
- My thoughts on what to look for and some explanation of a John Deere 318. Just trying to help folks not get taken, there are stories of people spending good money on a machine only needing to spend more money to get it working! Sorry for the length, I will try and do a condensed version sometime in the future.
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I watched this before buying my 318 about two weeks ago. Very helpful. Thank you!
Yano between your channel and mike trazzera you guys are the ones who got me into the hobby and ultimately the reason that I own 4 today haha, just wanted to thank you for the great videos, keep it up man
Thanks for this video MrBeef. This is very helpful since a lot of people don't know what they are getting into when they try to buy a 318.
Really good video man, a new one to the collection of useful 318 videos. Keep them coming
Thank you so much! My neighbor gave their 1990 (332) what a beast compare to my La-115. I am cherish very grateful he offer it to me. It needs some TLC.I got everything 50"mid mt deck,54" hydraulic plow & MCS 3 bags with 4.5 hp small engine. I'm already $672.00 in to it recondition radiator very hard to find & new hydraulic lines for the plow. Also mule cover screws & j fork threaded rod missing.
I'm traveling about 2 hours tomorrow to check out a 318. I've had a 312 and a 300 but always wanted a 318. This video was helpful.
Hope you found a good 318!
I drive a 318 at my grandma’s house. She has a large property... my grandpa bought it 2nd hand probably 20 years ago. I’ll have to see what year it is, one difference I’ve noticed is the emblem on the front doesn’t have “John Deer” text, and the deer logo is bigger. It gets decent maintenance from my uncles, although the starter sucks, sometimes it takes 2-3 tries to start, and other times it takes up to 10 tries. Once it’s running tho, it runs like a dream! It’s missing paint around the rear wheel wells, although surprisingly the seat is not cracked at all!!! Lol. The steering is so fluid, and all the hydraulics work perfectly. Most recent issue is the blade will stop turning on after about an hour of use. I turn it off to cross the road and then it just won’t start unless you either lift the blade all the way up (even if it’s up already, pulling on the lever will turn it on) and sometimes that doesn’t work, I have to turn the throttle down a bit and then yank it all the way back up again and then the blade starts. Then the next week it works fine again. Anyways, I plan on buying this lawn mower and using it at my future house hopefully haha. I would love to rebuild it, or give it some sort of tune up. Thanks for these videos!!
Just came across your 318 video I have 2 318 one with over 4000 hours on a p220 replacement engine and about 7000 on the tractor great tractors
For years I would run my riding mowers at just enough rpm to cut the grass, but no higher, believing it would make the engine last longer. The last mower I bought (12 years ago) I noticed the manual said to run the engine at wide open throttle for best cutting. I thought that was excessive rpm but I went by that guide, nevertheless. As I said, I've had the mower 12 years now, have always run it at wide open throttle and the engine is still in very good condition, uses no oil, etc. So, the manual changed the way I mowed.
Great video! I’m going to go look at one in 2 days. It comes with a snow blower, plow, 50” deck, and tire chains. Looks flawless and guy is asking $2,000. Figured it’s a fair price. Hoping everything checks out it’ll be my first lawn tractor!
James F Fleck, good catch. The brake switch was not added until serial number 600305... which would be somewhere shortly after production for the 1989 model year started. The tractor in the video is a 1988 so it would have never had a brake switch. I actually spend a decent amount to time making sure all the safety switches work on my machines... even the new ones with the RIO switches. When you have a family member that was saved by a seat switch you realize the value. So I am no help disconnecting them. Sorry.
Yes, keep 'em coming. Would love to hear the differences by year.
W1WEASEL Never considered that, pretty cool exercise. I started writing stuff down and hopefully I can put that together sometime soon.
W1WEASEL i
You're awesome, recently picked up model 317😊
Nice GT. Best older tractors our there along with the old IH Cubs. I would like a 318 someday to go alone with my old restored 1650 IH. I like them both while both have minuses and pluses going for them...I need a bigger garage..hahaha!
Hi. Would you have any ideas why my 318 pops a 20A fuse? I replaced the rectifier and fuse. Engine starts runs and fine but, dies immediately after I engage forward movement. Fuse popped again. Thanks
I noticed you didn't depress the brake pedals when starting, did you disconnect the interlock ? The seat interlock on mine has been disconnected but I've pondered disconnecting the brake as well, any thoughts ? Thanks for the video.
I am stuck on what used J.Deere. 12, 14, 18 or more HP to buy with a snow blade. I like the bells and whistles on the hydraulics up and down motion as well as side to side. I am not going to use the tractor for anything else. I don't want to go over 48" blade, as I'm thinking it would be too much weight to push. Any help would be appreciated.
Great video! If and when you do some maintenance, please post videos so other 318 owners can learn and hopefully keep these beasts running and purring like yours does.
Wish you had posted a video of the onan rebuild...
Very well done. Nice job...!
thanks for sharing !!
Hello, I have a 1990, 318. I have a little buck loader for it and I’ve been mowing 2acres with it. I would like to get a tiller for it. Also, should I upgrade to a 322 or 332? I’ve been told that the 318s have to be ran wide-open or they will overheat?
The only reason to idle the equipment or to run other than WOT is to get off of it to get something cold to drink. Other than that they should run at wide open throttle. The equipment is designed to run at a specific horsepower. If you operate it at less than wide-open throttle you are putting a large strain on an engine by not allowing it to develop its full horsepower.
another great video, I wish I would have seen this before I bought my first 318. where did you get your front tires and how much did they run?
They are V61's. Miller Tire has them, there are other places as well. www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/18x-8-50-8/18x8-50-8-v61-hd-5-rib-4-ply/
Great information on these mowers. I just recently purchase a 1986 318, would like to know what kinda of fluid you recommend for the rear end?
I prefer to use Deere's Low Viscosity HyGard. Any good name brand hydraulic fluid or ATF Type F should work though. If you are in a hotter area (Texas - Florida as an example) you may want to consider just straight Hygard.
That Onan sounds like a diesel when you throttle up.
I definitely agree!
I have either a 1985 or 86 John Deere 318. It has a hydraulic mower deck, hydraulic plow and a hydraulic rota tiller. Anyone know what it is worth.
A few things he missed....the battery fire wall insulation is missing which plays a big part in engine cooling..also the Iower u joint on steer shaft are known to skip when turning wheel.....the foam on the air filter is
B.S.!!!....
Interesting about the fire wall foam. I’ve done many many tests with an anemometer, laser temp gun, and a couple FLIR images. To date I have noticed very little difference in the overall heat signature of the engine. It does help direct the air but there doesn’t seem to be much of a difference in the engine heat signature. Which 5 years ago I would not have believed either. What it does do is it keeps the battery cooler, which may have a positive side to it. Can you explain the u-joint comment? There are no u-joints in the 318’s steering system. As for the air filter, once again interesting that you do t think there should be a foam filter. From my experience tearing Onan’s down over the years I have generally found engines without foam covers to have more wear than those with them. Now that may very well be a function of the level of care for the machine vs just the foam filter. The foam filter requires more frequent inspection and care than just a paper filter.
Thank you very much!
I have owned 3 of these over the years, Use one for 5 years , sold it for what I bought it for, It was a great mower , with pto and 3 point. other two I got to clean up and fix & resale....I went to a Auction week ago with hopes to buy the one there they had 1200 hours ,one owner, had set 3 years. I guess I should of new better , Long story short that thing sold for nearly 2600 hundred dollars!!
That certainly was a great price for the seller!
@@mmrbeef Yes for sure it was, I bid up to 1600 & That was it for me. Older Man won the bid on it, Guess he wanted it ....bad!
Get some sylvania vevo leds. They are surprisingly bright. Mine in my 317 were 1156 bulbs
I have had a couple sets of these and while spendy they work great as well. tractorleds.com
I three questions on the 318s I don't understand 1. The 2 brake pedals that can be connected or independent, I don't get what that's about? 2. The two sticks on the left side, one I assume puts the deck up and down, what does the other lever/stick do? 3. If you have something connected to the rear PTO, how do you turn it off and on and move it up/down? Thanks
zakyum Yes, the brake pedals can be both independent and connected. There is a small plate that goes between the pedals to lock them together. Having split brakes allows the machine to make tighter turns or if one tire looses traction it allows the operator to stop that tire providing the other tire with power. (you would not want to use turning brakes while mowing because it would tear up the yard).The two sticks on the side are the hydraulic controls. The 318 (322 and 332) has two hydraulic circuits. One lifts the deck and powers one set of the front hydraulic lines the other powers the other set of front hydraulic lines. A good example is a 4 way Model 54 blade. One "stick" controls the up/down motion and the other "stick" controls the angle from side to side. For the rear PTO if it was installed there would be a separate PTO switch next to the existing switch. To move a rear attachment up or down you would have to have a 3 point hitch installed which is also powered by the same hydraulic cylinder that lifts the deck. Hopefully that makes sense. Sounds like I need to do a video on operation of a 318?
mmrbeef Very well explained & thank you
I just bought a 1983 (from what I can tell on serial number) 318 with a snowblower and updated 48" deck. While mowing for first time the machine shut right off on me. This was after 2-3 hours use. Up to that it was running flawless. Then nothing. Wouldnt Even crank over. Noticed no gas in the fuel filter. Got it to finally try to crank then I put the fuel switch in reserve (had gas in tank not sure if was enough) then boom she fire right up. I dont think it was a fuel issue as it would not even try to fire. Any ideas what caused this?
A lot of times the fuel pick up will become clogged or will fall off in the tank. However, with the engine not turning over it sounds like a little different situation. Any idea what you had to do to get it to turn over and then crank? I'd double check all your safety switches etc to ensure they are all making contact and then focus on the fuel issue.
@@mmrbeef Thank you for the reply! Could the fuel pump be going bad or do they just work or not work no in between? Also my battery that came in there with it is from 2013 so getting old and its just a cheap looking acid one. What gel one you recommend? The safety under the seat is tied off I saw. Other wires looked ok from what I saw. Very odd indeed.
@@mmrbeef I also had it jumped to my truck but didn't seem to change it much charging wise....
What should you look for when you are buying a JD322 with a watercooled engine?
Aside from the engine the general points are the same. With the engine make sure there is no blow buy and the Yanmars in the 322 should start right up and sound like a big sewing machine. They are great machines! About the biggest problems I have seen are the coils and some carb issues. The coils are expensive.
@@mmrbeef okay thanks, could you give me a shoutout next video?
The best mower ever built....
You been good enough to answer before so trying again... I need a gasket kit for my 1983 318 carb and don't where to find the correct one. Onan is out of business now. Suggestions?
www.onanparts.com/ is a great resource. Also if you want to speak with a guy that knows a lot about these engines..... boomersonanparts.com/ Boomer is a great guy.
yep, he says he has it... thanks
The carb can be replaced with a China clone for about $60, sold on Ebay and others.
so was it worth it to do?
I have a 316 and it got a horrible oil leak on the back of the moter does someone know what it could be?
My first thought would be to check your oil filter adapter IF you have a 316 with the P218 engine. If you have the B43E engine you will probably have to do some more investigation.
Seat covers for those tractors are about $30 on Amazon I bought one for my 212.
Yeah. Saw a 1986 with the older Onan engine and the 318 had 1500 hours on it, which I think is a lot for these gas engine Onans; can give trouble after that if they haven't been maintained like they should. Wanted $3500 for it which is a pretty steep price. Have seen some priced much less.
Definitely have to shop around to get one that's still in good shape; and one that still has a solid mowing deck.
Is this information still as relevant if the 318 in question is 50 dollars? Thanks.
It could be. A $50 318, even if it’s complete, can easily become a $1000 318 if you need a couple major parts and/or it’s missing a deck. Granted unless it was a rolling frame, I think any complete 318 should be worth more than $50.
im on my dads account again but im 26 i want one of these because i beat the hell out of the old one in the early 2000s still survived my dad had a jd 325 i think and the frame was built the same so wed take the deck off and off road it in the back field
Great video. Thank you. I paid $3000. (Used) in 1992 and it is going great. I appreciate the hand hydrostatic control on my 318.and could easily afford anything, but I love this machine. Am in my 80's and enjoy cutting 2 acres of lawn. I would never have a cracked seat, however, and like a spinner on the power steering wheel.
Do they make a bufford bucket for a 420
Yes they do.
@@mmrbeef I tried finding the Buford bucket but only films show and sounds like it's not made anymore. I found my 420 blade setup and have one for a 310 or 100 series also and many 318s and others
A 88 would have removable dash screens. Yours doesn't so it must be a late late 87 with a P218
+JD Gator The removable screens were not added until serial number 485762... 1988 serial numbers started at 475001. So there were some 1988 318's with the older style panels on the towers like this one. The serial number of this machine is 477--- making it an '88 but an early '88. Also since it is an early '88 that is why it does not have power coat problems like the later 1988 machines.
+mmrbeef also I tried adding you on Facebook but you haven't accepted it. It's Dennis Feldbauer
Why repower with an Onan over a Honda/Vanguard/Kawasaki/etc? It's old technology for just about the same price as new.
Repower or rebuild is one of those age old questions that really has no good answer. All total the rebuild and conversion to the 20 hp engine cost me about $500. I have not checked repower prices recently but at minimum figure 1300. Which is the same cost as a complete rebuild of an Onan (Onan's don't necessarily need all new parts for a rebuild). Honestly on a dollar for dollar basis it would be beneficial to step up to a 425 or 445 before repowering. I am an Onan fan so I opted to rebuild the engine. I think it all boils down to personal preference with the rebuild repower discussion.
I put a cub cadet seat on my lx it's much better at half the cost even for a used one. I kept the old one since they sell with low backs new
a p218 and a p220 are the same engine the bore and stroke are the same with the ownan
Correct, both 48 cubic inches. The differences between the two engines is the carb venturi, carb main jet, and the lobes on the cam shaft.
@@mmrbeef carb and manifold i have a 16 b43 a 18 b48 and a p220 the 43 and 48 18 use the small carb and manifold and the 220 uses the large carb and manifold love the onans they all run fantastic
318th like
Grill emblem ?
Really ! ??
Yes, and 7 years after I posted this video it holds true. Some of the nicest 318's I know still have their grill emblems. They might be attached by glue or even have screw through them, but the owner took the time to put it back on or replaced it after it fell off. That effort generally extends to the rest of the tractor.
Dude says uhmm like 800 time's. That is extremely annoying to me. But this is a great video.
I posted this as a comment in another video: I'm sorry you feel that way. I am who I am.... If I could justify the time to write scripts and hours shooting and editing videos I could polish my videos up a good bit. Unfortunately/fortunately (depending on how one looks at it) this is only my hobby I choose to share on TH-cam and my day job pays the bills. It has also been pointed out numerous times that I yawn and say the word "anyway" a good bit.
I think you do fine with the video. I’ve seen much worse and some better but not a lot better. I’ve always thought about looking for a 318 but then I got into mowing for a occupation and went the way of fast zero turn mowers. I use my ATV and a skid to plow with so that’s taken care of.
the pre filter DOES NOT catch fine dust. dude you have no clue WTF you are talking about. its a PRE filter. It catches the large shit. to increase service interval of the paper element.
So, if the PRE filter is designed to extend the life of the paper filter then it seems like one of the things it would do is catch dust? More fine dust equals a plugged paper filter which would lead to dust getting into the engine from any leak around the filter. I stand by my statement, the pre-filter catches fine dust. Perhaps if your intended discussion would have been a bit more civil I would have a more open minded to your theory of the pre-filter.
@@mmrbeef No it doesnt catch dust. Dust is a fine particulate, which is what the paper element does. The foam element catches large objects that would quickly plug the filter. IE blades of grass and chaff off the mower deck. Dust goes right through the large pours of the foam filter. Also that foam is not oiled, so it wont catch any dust what so ever. You can argue this all you want. I build off road race cars that operate in the desert. Dust is kind of my thing.
Thanks for the reply. Based on your reply, now that I have context and background, I think where we are off here is the term "dust". I am using the term dust as common sand and dirt that is suspended in the air during mowing. Instead of dust I should be using the terms dirt or larger particles rather than dust. Recognizing you most likely think of "dust" in the size of microns that may or may not be visible. To 90+% of people watching this video dust is just the stuff in the air, regardless of size. I can certainly get behind the theory that true "dust" is primarily caught in the paper filter. However, for the intent and purpose of the video I think the term dust is the best relatable term for most viewers. I think one of the hardest parts about doing these videos is the fact I will never fully encompass everything on a level that is 100% correct all the time. Sometimes you have to boil stuff down to common terms that may or may not be 100% correct.
@@mmrbeef Look guy. I understand you are trying to rationalize what you said. But what you said is wrong. Dust IS dirt and sand flying around in the air. Which is exactly what the PAPER element is designed to catch. Dust is .1 to 100 micron in size. Clouds, the ones above your head, are about 10 micron in size. Dust is VERY SMALL. Sand is about 60 to 500 micron in size. 500 micron is .019". Thats a HUGE grain of sand....But even that will go right through the foam element and down into the engine if not filtered out properly. The foam PRE filter is just there to Extend Service Life of the paper element which is non serviceable. Thats it. Thats all it does. It in NO WAY increase the filtration properties of the system. A real tractor would have a cyclone filter that drops the big shit out of the air before going through the paper cartridge. The green foam is merely a cheap replacement for the cyclone housing used on commercial engines. Because this is a consumer engine. Not a commercial one. Its light duty. Just admit you made a slight faux paux and move on man. We all make mistakes, its called learning and growing.
OK dude you worried about front emblem but if u wanna take care of machine cover the seat or get new one Also your belly pan looks very dam dirty clean the shit
Also you say front end was rebuilt those tie rod ends are stock all they did was put in a steering bolt to take up slop!
I would like to point out the title is "....Overview for Buying" not "Overview of this John Deere 318". Rather than use foul language and ask simple questions instead you choose to accuse and use language that is not suitable for a discussion based exchange. However, I will attempt to answer or explain the points of contention. Why would I buy a new seat when I don't mind the crack. I hate seat covers because they slide around, so I am perfectly content with the crack. If I was selling I would probably put a new seat on it, but I am not. The belly screen does have some oil residue (I am not sure what from, but it is not there now) on it in the video but it has no trash on it and is open for air flow. For your benefit I also checked the maintenance records. The tie rods are stock because they came on the tie rod that was replaced in 1999 (per the invoice and maintenance records I received with the machine) and both are still good. Once again why replace a part if it is functional, not worn out, or causing issues? Yes, the bolt is there to take some slop out of the steering. The dealer also put in a new front bolt and axle bushing (Part number P1076H x2 according to the invoice). I do not think that is shown in this video. Hopefully that answers some of your burning questions.