Mel, top job.. another way to find out is, to test the vehicle battery voltage with a multimeter. On standard alternator it will rise to about 14.5V and stay around that, whereas smart alternators will drop back down to closer to 12.5 - 13V after 5 - 10 minutes of engine running..
That's why I think a standard alternator is a better choice for charging a leisure battery as it puts more juice in and quicker at doing that also although it's harder on the alternator I'd say. Mine is the standard so I always drive a few good miles to make sure the van battery gets full load then switch over to split charging. I've been doing this for a while because I need to replace belt and tensioners, the extra load on the second battery will give a squeaking noise plus the belt slipping to begin with if I don't. I need to sort it asap.
Sorry if someone else has mentioned, but I use the Sterling DC-DC charger. It even works with regenerative braking. Great videos and advice Mel! Its those little nuggets of information everyone else misses out that make your videos great.
All you need to do if you have a euro twin battery system with smart alternator is remove the sensors.off both batteries..negative side. Remove the electrical plug... Alternator recerts back to factory default.. then fit split charge relay...
Hi mel I search for many days to try to understand why my Peugeot partner is not charging the battery ( and there is no battery warning light on ) I was looking through the Peugeot section and your channel popped up on how to spot a smart alternater in which I have thanks to your video on how to spot one So after months off sleepless nights and studying you have solved the problems in which I apparently need a soft wear update thanks Mel 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Hiya Mel... I've just purchased a Renogy 50amp DCDC charger with solar mppt too..it seems an amazing bit of kit suitable for all batteries, only down side is the 25v max input for solar panels..but you can add panels in parallel up to 400watts though...or is 600?? 🤔..can't remember cos I ain't going that big!! 😂 but it comes with a BT add on module and is compatible with smart alternators ....and a lot less pricey if like me you're on a budget!! Cheers Mel for all the info, glad the channel is growing nicely mate!! 😁👍
Hi Mel, if you look past the Transit most now have a smart alternator and it gets more complicated, Citroen & Pug have on there Hdi with stop/start use the alternator to start the engine with a bunch of capacitors to blast the alternator, only using the starter motor for initial start, it’s Valao system works well but tends to eat belts and tensioners. Battery voltage varies from 14v to as low as 11v where the stop/start is not working, but still starts on the starter. Good way to fry electrics if you don’t use a battery to battery charger
Mel you’ve got thumbs up for sure, the ctek relays are brilliant as they also accommodate solar input. You can charge gel batteries with them too. You really are nailing these 👍👍👍👍
You can charge lithium from any alternator using a dc to dc charger. Good brands like Victorian and Renogy make them. Renogy also makes one that takes a solar input too ;it has a built-in mppt charge controller). So this piece of kit will take alternator and solar input and manage the charge of your vehicle and leisure battery!
You will have to run a wire from the convenience port or a switched\fused lead from the positive to the ignition port on the Renogy dc-dc charger if you want to charge from the alternator.
Thanks again Mel. Very useful info.. Although Ive just connected my solar panel to the leisure battery with no split charge system... A 100w panel is more than enough for most of us for weekend camping.. Our was fine on a month trip though France and Spain with no split charge.. 12v compressor fridge, lights. And charging devices..
Hi Mel, a couple of things. You don't have to use an old lead acid with a smart charger. The Ctek device doesn't allow for lithium that is correct but there are other option the market. They are commonly known as battery to battery chargers or DC to DC chargers. Redarc bcdc (available in the UK via eBay) its what we are using. Sterling b2b Victron buckboost To name a few. They all allow for charging with lithium and can all be set to certain voltage parameters depending on the battery type. This has the added benefit of providing the battery with the correct 3 or 4 stage charging process which is vital for maintaining battery health in the long run. The split charge relays are practically just a switch as you know and thus don't provide batteries with the adequate charging voltage to FULLY charge the leisure battery. They can reach the 80% mark or there abouts and if you have solar then obviously that can then top up the remaining charge to 100%. But if you where to rely on just the split charge relay then you will never charge the battery to full capacity. Unlike the battery to battery chargers. So in all even if you have a regular alternator it's still the better option to buy a battery to battery charger if budget allows. 👍 Keep up the great videos matey.
I thought the Ctek was a DC to DC ? it also accepts solar panel input for it's built in mppt controller , it can charge from both at the same time , or I am thinking about another make ?
Mitchell Orr Do you have any recommendations for a dc to dc with a smart alternator the same size of the ctek 250 which you can use with lead acid and lithium? I have got lead acid at the moment, when my pocket allows I will upgrade to lithium. I wanted to install a one off dc to dc charger and only swap to lithium batteries with a build in bms in future. Thanks in advance.
@@leoinswlondon The Redarc BCDC1240D is the most compact unit available. It also has built in solar controller and can charge lithium so long as you buy the most recent version of it. Just be sure to check the sale listing to make sure it's the newer model with lithium option.
Dude I added a secondary battery to my car to power my car fridge, only to find out it won't charge off my alternator if its a smart one. This is the perfect video to find out what alternator I actually have, cheers
Hi thanks for this. Back in the 80's 90's we would have a bank of old van and truck batteries, for house electrics. We would take one out for a drive most days, Sat in my foot well, parallel charging off the starter battery with crocodile clips. Ive recentlybought a swb 2011 Sprinter for stealth camping. I was going to replace the battery and use the old one for a couple of led lights and fone charging. I was thinking of just going for parallel charging again. Seems I'll have to buy a charging box of some sort. Life doesn't get more complicated, it gers more expensive as well. Lol great vids Mel keep em coming.
Great info, and gave me the info that I needed. Having a lithium based leisure battery pack I was at first thinking ahh well, solar and shore will do ... however a little bit of scratching around and Victron have jest the solution ... the Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger work with LA or Lithium
Hi Mel, nice video but as others have pointed out the Ctek unit does not have a lithium charging profile like others do however that being said the majority of LiFePO4 batteries can be charged on a AGM profile as long as the max voltage does not exceed 14.6V. a voltage sensitive relay relies on voltage thresholds that trigger them to engage and disengage. Typically they engage to connect the starter and auxiliary battery together at around 13.3V and disengage to separate them at around 12.8V, which in vehicles with traditional alternators coincides with engine start-up and shut-down. This is ideal as it makes sure that the auxiliary battery is charging whenever the engine is running. However, with a smart alternator, when the output voltage drops to below 12.8V a VSR would disengage, meaning that the auxiliary battery would have significant periods where it wouldn't be charging, even though the engine would be running (some models of VSR may not engage at all, dependent on the on-board software). VSRs can also engage and disengage frequently with the large and rapid voltage changes from a smart alternator and so the high current contacts may fail prematurely. I am the technical sales manager for the exclusive UK distributor of Redarc Electronics who have an award winning range of DC-DC battery chargers that are formally approved by a number of vehicle manufacturers. They are standard fit on many frontline ambulances and large service and utility fleets. In over 5 years of selling Redarc product into the UK we are yet to see a single failure which is credit to the superior performance and reliability the BCDC range offers. One of the largest problems we have seen with the Ctek and sterling (other than failures) is they derate massively in high ambient temps which impacts performance and output current, as soon as 25 degrees is reached which can happen easily in the location these are sometimes installed the current reduces significantly and it does again at 30 degrees, majority of the time the charging current is then around 12-15A and your not getting what is on the box!.. Redarc range has full output up to 60 degrees in regards to voltage sensitive relays While people have been using relays for years in split charge systems it is not the best solution for charging batteries, an alternators output is constant current and constant voltage because of this it is unable to fully recharge a lead acid battery to 100% SOC, it also reduces the life span of the battery. you also ideally need the same type of battery as an auxiliary as all a relay does is connect them in parallel The Redarc BCDC range has a sophisticated multi charge algorithm that will ensure your batteries are in optimum condition and get fully charged, the 40A unit is suitable for up to 400ah of batteries. The Redarc unit also overcomes voltage drop issues and knows when the battery is 100% due to resistance, temp and voltage so if a load is applied it will provide power to the load while maintaining your battery SOC up to 40amps, for larger requirements up to 4 units can be connected in parallel to give you 160A of charging current! Charging a lead acid battery is like trying to fill a Coke bottle up with stones, at the start you can put big stones in to fill up capacity quickly but towards the end you need lots and lots of smaller stones to make it 100% full - an alternator cannot do this while a proper battery charger can and that is why you have the different stages - bulk, absorption and float. In the real world unless when under heavy load your vsr is probably putting in no more than 40A We sell over 1000 vsrs a month but have seen a massive increase in DC-DC charger sales and a drop in vsrs, we honestly believe the Redarc unit is the best solution for any dual battery vehicle
So you don't ask the alternator a general knowledge question to see how smart it is 🤔 😉. Great video Mel, nice and easy way to tell them apart cheers 😊👍👍👍
I think we have the same Ford transit base, as my battery looks exactly like yours does. Brilliant video, super helpful in my build. Keep up the good work.
@@BigVanSmallWorld I've just checked mine. The Neutral has one thick cable and one small one on the same connection but no black box. The Positive has lots of connections though which was surprising. Gonna fit it and hope for the best.
If you have lithium then you'd have to have a charge controller anyway. So your smart switch ain't wrong but it's only correct about connecting directly to the batteries.
Took a picture of my battery to confirm a smart alternator setup. I can see the little black box. It's 2015 custom trend. I don't have stop start option in my van though🤔 Can I assume from the little box that I have a smart alternator? Also I am hearing that smart relays do work with AGM batteries. Am I right? Your video is amazingly helpful. Helps a non tech person like me no end.... 👍
Yes you have a smart alternator so you will need a DC to CD charge controller that work fine with AGM battery’s thank you for the kind words really do appreciate your encouragement 👍😊👍
Just been researching this, C Tek D250S is the original unit D250SA was there last unit D250SE is there latest with use with LiFePo4 includes all other battery types Integrated solar mppt 20amp charging or 140amps with the addition SmartPass 120 Sterling BB1230 and BB1260 All battery types 30and and 60amp charge current model dependant No Integrated solar Victron Orion-Tr 12-12/30 smart All battery types 30amp charge current extra units are used in parallel to increase current eg 30+30=60amps two units £274x2 This is quick short insight, please do a in-depth research before making a purchase. Careful if running a negative cable to the starter battery, connection may defeat current sensor!!! I would imagine this will give the computer/alternator the wrong info ?? Mel love your videos, very informative
50 amp Renergy Dc to dc charger with not solar charger 260 to 300 US dollars it isolates starter battery solar charges all battery has settings for lithium A G M Led acid different charge profiles and has battery heat sensor
Ford have used smart charging Alternators sinve around 2000. Battery monitors have not been used fitted to cars until around 2010 (dependant on manufacurer). My 2006 Transit had smart charging with no monitor.
Hi guys I have read somewhere that you can just unplug the smart receiver from the negative terminal then your alternator reverts to around 14v charge, then you can use just a standard split charge relay, I do not know if this will cause engine management issues on the vehicle or whether or not your vehicle will throw a wobbly.
Nice vid. I have installed the ctek smart charger / solar in vans. Twice actually. Yes, annoying that cTEK have not brought one out with the Lithium charging protocol. Because this device only charges at 20A o was wondering about combining it with a CCCV charger that is rated at 20a or two smaller ones paralleled together. These are easily available on eBay etc.
Nigel Dolman Hi Nigel I have put a link in the description to a great (not life changing) but still solves the problems it’s a DC to DC charger and solar controller all in one check it out you may find it useful I’ll be ordering one soon 🤓🤙
check out road pro they do a range of dc to dc chargers I have votronic 3324 30amps £160.00, 3year guarantee. It will charge any battery and I have a LCD screen that tells me how many amps is being put into starter and leisure battery and the level of charge in each battery
Check-out the REDARC BCDC 1225/1240 - compact heavy duty in vehicle dual battery charger which will handle both standard and smart alternators and all battery types.
What's Ah of the Bluetti battery pack inside unit? If the Ah works out cheaper than lithium 12v battery(s) then it's a good setup. Did you buy it off Amazon or was it a freebie? Regards Jas.
I have a 2018 Ram Promaster City. Same as 4 cylinder Fiat Ducato. Would trying to charge a 155 AGM 12v gell cause my alternator to burn out in 5 minutes??
Hi Mel - good info. Comfortably Lost in Oz fitted a split charge system that handles Lithium to their Sprinter. I'm seeing a few Dc to DC chargers pop up now - similar prices here in NZ to a VSR Split charge system and some also do Solar input too with MPPT - so probably a better option?? I read the other day that the Smart Alternators will never fully charge an AGM battery, only capable of charging to 80% due to the limited output Voltage of the alternator - to keep the emissions down - am wondering if this is correct?
@@BigVanSmallWorld Me too, have an AGM leisure battery. I think the Lithium split chargers are very expensive. But the DC to DC (with MPPT) are good for AGM leisure batteries, and cost a bit less than one of the victron MPPT solar controllers here.
Is there a certain year they change to smart or is it maybe all front drive vans.i fancied a front drive but that put me of .dont lead acid give off gas fume in the van. Intetesting stuff mel...nice one😁
@@BigVanSmallWorld Good man , i was all ready to film me installing my split charge and someone mentioned a smart alternator... Totally stopped me in my tracks 😂😂 Cheers pal 👍
Sorry but a standard alternator does not stay constant, the nominal voltage when it is not required to work hard is 13.8 v .If the batteries require some charging, you can see up to around 14.7 v
At the moment solar is not charging , too overcast. Did had a splitcharge that came with the van but for some reason it stopped charging , two batterys down at 73% solar have been keeping there over the last few days, thats why i want to fit a votronic battery to battery charger , little drive and will top up batterys .
Your van looks good Mel from across the road! The near side window 👍 I also have, great for seeing around, less cave effect. Somebody keeps mentioning or possibly a few but are you actually Australian? I feel a bit of a twat for asking for some reason 🙈
Rubbish. Li-on batteries are fine. Just use a proper DC to DC charger and attach the third light gauge wire to the ignition circuit where there is power only when the motor is running. Simples.
Does you vans only have one battery mine has two from the factory. In my van everything MUST be connected to the front battery as the other is for starting and electronics for some reason. Can you change the alternator?
Hey Mel - great video thx - my Transit doesnt have smart alternator thankfully. Split charge works great. I recently added an AC hookup with a charger unit to the leisure battery - all good (if a bit noisy the cheaper ones - watchout) - Heres the rub; when the leisure battery reaches full on AC charge, I can hear the split charger start to click on and off again??? Its almost like its trying to reverse the split and AC charge the car battery back through the split. Is that possible? And how to fix? TVM
Hi Mel, I wish I had found this video first! I have a Vauxhall Vivaro sport 2017 & I've installed a standard split charge relay with a 140ah Leisure battery, it goes crazy when the engine starts and clicks quickly, I didn't think anything of it and have been using it for a month or so with having to charge the battery manually every other day too, do you think I have caused any damage to the battery? I don't want to spend £200 on a B2B controller if I've ruined my brand new £200 battery too 😟, thank you for the video and your help! Shane,
Good morning buddy it you have an AGM or led acid battery as long as you haven’t drained it lower than 12.02 v you should be ok personally I don’t like to let mine go below 12.2 what I would do is charge the battery then leave it to stand disconnected for 24 hours then test the voltage you want about 12.8 to 13 v or higher to remain if it does this you’re golden good luck 🤞
I bought a CTEK 250sa and it was a piece of junk and would only charge a lead acid battery I upgraded to the sterling power cos it can use lithium I will do a video if you like.
@@BigVanSmallWorld Sorry only seen the one. Made me wonder why mine had two :) . will be checking mine later as about to do the wiring later this week.
Check out my Amazon Store for all your van building needs and more
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Mel, top job.. another way to find out is, to test the vehicle battery voltage with a multimeter. On standard alternator it will rise to about 14.5V and stay around that, whereas smart alternators will drop back down to closer to 12.5 - 13V after 5 - 10 minutes of engine running..
team 118 thank you I’m sure that will be interesting and helpful to lots of people 🤓🤙
That's why I think a standard alternator is a better choice for charging a leisure battery as it puts more juice in and quicker at doing that also although it's harder on the alternator I'd say. Mine is the standard so I always drive a few good miles to make sure the van battery gets full load then switch over to split charging. I've been doing this for a while because I need to replace belt and tensioners, the extra load on the second battery will give a squeaking noise plus the belt slipping to begin with if I don't. I need to sort it asap.
I've been racking my brains for a way to tell the difference. Just what I needed. Thanks 👍
David Reilly you’re welcome 🤓🤙
Sorry if someone else has mentioned, but I use the Sterling DC-DC charger. It even works with regenerative braking. Great videos and advice Mel! Its those little nuggets of information everyone else misses out that make your videos great.
Thank you that’s really appreciated 👍
All you need to do if you have a euro twin battery system with smart alternator is remove the sensors.off both batteries..negative side. Remove the electrical plug... Alternator recerts back to factory default.. then fit split charge relay...
Works awesome even have my solar via epever to batteries so charges both ways..
The smart charger It’s a solar controller as well! That’s dead handy. Very happy I stumbled onto this vid!
You’re absolutely welcome thanks for your positive feedback and encouragement really appreciated good luck with your build 👍
Hi mel I search for many days to try to understand why my Peugeot partner is not charging the battery ( and there is no battery warning light on ) I was looking through the Peugeot section and your channel popped up on how to spot a smart alternater in which I have thanks to your video on how to spot one So after months off sleepless nights and studying you have solved the problems in which I apparently need a soft wear update thanks Mel 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks for taking the time to comment all ways nice to hear my videos helped out 👍🤓👍
Hiya Mel... I've just purchased a Renogy 50amp DCDC charger with solar mppt too..it seems an amazing bit of kit suitable for all batteries, only down side is the 25v max input for solar panels..but you can add panels in parallel up to 400watts though...or is 600?? 🤔..can't remember cos I ain't going that big!! 😂 but it comes with a BT add on module and is compatible with smart alternators ....and a lot less pricey if like me you're on a budget!!
Cheers Mel for all the info, glad the channel is growing nicely mate!! 😁👍
Nice one I’ll have a look into them when I build my next van cheers buddy 👍🤓👍🍻
Hi Mel, if you look past the Transit most now have a smart alternator and it gets more complicated, Citroen & Pug have on there Hdi with stop/start use the alternator to start the engine with a bunch of capacitors to blast the alternator, only using the starter motor for initial start, it’s Valao system works well but tends to eat belts and tensioners. Battery voltage varies from 14v to as low as 11v where the stop/start is not working, but still starts on the starter. Good way to fry electrics if you don’t use a battery to battery charger
Mel you’ve got thumbs up for sure, the ctek relays are brilliant as they also accommodate solar input. You can charge gel batteries with them too. You really are nailing these 👍👍👍👍
In-the-van Peter thank you really appreciate your positive feedback 🤓🤙
You can charge lithium from any alternator using a dc to dc charger.
Good brands like Victorian and Renogy make them.
Renogy also makes one that takes a solar input too ;it has a built-in mppt charge controller). So this piece of kit will take alternator and solar input and manage the charge of your vehicle and leisure battery!
You will have to run a wire from the convenience port or a switched\fused lead from the positive to the ignition port on the Renogy dc-dc charger if you want to charge from the alternator.
@@rg3965 where is the best place to connect the ignition cable on a sprinter that runs to the renogy DC-DC charger?
I have been scouring the internet for HOURS trying to work this out, and you solved it in a few minutes - thanks!
You are welcome thanks for the positive feedback 🤙🤓🍻
Thanks again Mel. Very useful info.. Although Ive just connected my solar panel to the leisure battery with no split charge system... A 100w panel is more than enough for most of us for weekend camping.. Our was fine on a month trip though France and Spain with no split charge.. 12v compressor fridge, lights. And charging devices..
well done hope you had a great time :)
Scott how is it on winter trips though? Not so good I imagine?
Hi Mel, a couple of things. You don't have to use an old lead acid with a smart charger. The Ctek device doesn't allow for lithium that is correct but there are other option the market.
They are commonly known as battery to battery chargers or DC to DC chargers.
Redarc bcdc (available in the UK via eBay) its what we are using.
Sterling b2b
Victron buckboost
To name a few. They all allow for charging with lithium and can all be set to certain voltage parameters depending on the battery type. This has the added benefit of providing the battery with the correct 3 or 4 stage charging process which is vital for maintaining battery health in the long run.
The split charge relays are practically just a switch as you know and thus don't provide batteries with the adequate charging voltage to FULLY charge the leisure battery. They can reach the 80% mark or there abouts and if you have solar then obviously that can then top up the remaining charge to 100%. But if you where to rely on just the split charge relay then you will never charge the battery to full capacity. Unlike the battery to battery chargers.
So in all even if you have a regular alternator it's still the better option to buy a battery to battery charger if budget allows.
👍
Keep up the great videos matey.
thank you so much
I thought the Ctek was a DC to DC ? it also accepts solar panel input for it's built in mppt controller , it can charge from both at the same time , or I am thinking about another make ?
uptowndisco2 You are right, however with the ctek you can only use lead acid type batteries and cannot upgrade further to lithium.
Mitchell Orr Do you have any recommendations for a dc to dc with a smart alternator the same size of the ctek 250 which you can use with lead acid and lithium? I have got lead acid at the moment, when my pocket allows I will upgrade to lithium. I wanted to install a one off dc to dc charger and only swap to lithium batteries with a build in bms in future. Thanks in advance.
@@leoinswlondon The Redarc BCDC1240D is the most compact unit available. It also has built in solar controller and can charge lithium so long as you buy the most recent version of it. Just be sure to check the sale listing to make sure it's the newer model with lithium option.
Dude I added a secondary battery to my car to power my car fridge, only to find out it won't charge off my alternator if its a smart one. This is the perfect video to find out what alternator I actually have, cheers
Hay no problem I’m pleased it’s helpful thanks for letting me know I appreciate your feedback 👍😊👍
Hi thanks for this. Back in the 80's 90's we would have a bank of old van and truck batteries, for house electrics. We would take one out for a drive most days, Sat in my foot well, parallel charging off the starter battery with crocodile clips. Ive recentlybought a swb 2011 Sprinter for stealth camping. I was going to replace the battery and use the old one for a couple of led lights and fone charging. I was thinking of just going for parallel charging again. Seems I'll have to buy a charging box of some sort. Life doesn't get more complicated, it gers more expensive as well. Lol great vids Mel keep em coming.
Great info, and gave me the info that I needed. Having a lithium based leisure battery pack I was at first thinking ahh well, solar and shore will do ... however a little bit of scratching around and Victron have jest the solution ... the Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger work with LA or Lithium
Hi glad you found it useful 👍🤓👍
Hi Mel, nice video but as others have pointed out the Ctek unit does not have a lithium charging profile like others do however that being said the majority of LiFePO4 batteries can be charged on a AGM profile as long as the max voltage does not exceed 14.6V.
a voltage sensitive relay relies on voltage thresholds that trigger them to engage and disengage. Typically they engage to connect the starter and auxiliary battery together at around 13.3V and disengage to separate them at around 12.8V, which in vehicles with traditional alternators coincides with engine start-up and shut-down. This is ideal as it makes sure that the auxiliary battery is charging whenever the engine is running. However, with a smart alternator, when the output voltage drops to below 12.8V a VSR would disengage, meaning that the auxiliary battery would have significant periods where it wouldn't be charging, even though the engine would be running (some models of VSR may not engage at all, dependent on the on-board software). VSRs can also engage and disengage frequently with the large and rapid voltage changes from a smart alternator and so the high current contacts may fail prematurely.
I am the technical sales manager for the exclusive UK distributor of Redarc Electronics who have an award winning range of DC-DC battery chargers that are formally approved by a number of vehicle manufacturers. They are standard fit on many frontline ambulances and large service and utility fleets.
In over 5 years of selling Redarc product into the UK we are yet to see a single failure which is credit to the superior performance and reliability the BCDC range offers.
One of the largest problems we have seen with the Ctek and sterling (other than failures) is they derate massively in high ambient temps which impacts performance and output current, as soon as 25 degrees is reached which can happen easily in the location these are sometimes installed the current reduces significantly and it does again at 30 degrees, majority of the time the charging current is then around 12-15A and your not getting what is on the box!.. Redarc range has full output up to 60 degrees
in regards to voltage sensitive relays While people have been using relays for years in split charge systems it is not the best solution for charging batteries, an alternators output is constant current and constant voltage because of this it is unable to fully recharge a lead acid battery to 100% SOC, it also reduces the life span of the battery.
you also ideally need the same type of battery as an auxiliary as all a relay does is connect them in parallel
The Redarc BCDC range has a sophisticated multi charge algorithm that will ensure your batteries are in optimum condition and get fully charged, the 40A unit is suitable for up to 400ah of batteries. The Redarc unit also overcomes voltage drop issues and knows when the battery is 100% due to resistance, temp and voltage so if a load is applied it will provide power to the load while maintaining your battery SOC up to 40amps, for larger requirements up to 4 units can be connected in parallel to give you 160A of charging current!
Charging a lead acid battery is like trying to fill a Coke bottle up with stones, at the start you can put big stones in to fill up capacity quickly but towards the end you need lots and lots of smaller stones to make it 100% full - an alternator cannot do this while a proper battery charger can and that is why you have the different stages - bulk, absorption and float.
In the real world unless when under heavy load your vsr is probably putting in no more than 40A
We sell over 1000 vsrs a month but have seen a massive increase in DC-DC charger sales and a drop in vsrs, we honestly believe the Redarc unit is the best solution for any dual battery vehicle
Thanks for that if you really want a free add on my channel send me one of your products and I’ll gladly do a review for you 🤙🤓
Cheers Mel, only watched 2 vids so far and both have helped me out a lot. you have bagged another subscriber
that’s really kind of you to take the time to comment thank you for the positive feedback and support 👍🤓👍
So you don't ask the alternator a general knowledge question to see how smart it is 🤔 😉. Great video Mel, nice and easy way to tell them apart cheers 😊👍👍👍
Mark Collom #Iveavan haha that’s priceless thanks for your support really appreciated 🤓🤙
Unplug smart plug back alternator job done 🤣
I think we have the same Ford transit base, as my battery looks exactly like yours does. Brilliant video, super helpful in my build. Keep up the good work.
Thank you buddy good luck with your build 👍🤓👍
Whoops I've already bought my split charge system without checking my alternator! Better check it before I fit it!
Thanks Mel
Me too, purchased the standard one which Mel has on his van, I have a horrible feeling my van, 2011 VW Crafter 2.0TDi has a smart alternator now.
Mark Velo I do hope it’s ok 🤓🤙
Michael Aldridge good luck hope it’s ok 🤓🤙
@@BigVanSmallWorld I've just checked mine.
The Neutral has one thick cable and one small one on the same connection but no black box.
The Positive has lots of connections though which was surprising.
Gonna fit it and hope for the best.
Mark Velo sounds like you should be ok 🤓🤙
Woop woop its Mel time !!! :)
Damaged Goodz lol thank you
Hi Mel. As far as I'm aware - ( as it's what I plan on doing.) AGM can be used with the CTEK.
Just Got a New Ctek D250SE and it works great on its lithium profile, solar mppt input is a bonus. Tanya Batteries £235 delivered.
Nice 👍
Must remember to check mine tomorrow, I wouldn’t of even thought of this so thanks Mel 👍
dave jenkins you are welcome.thanks for your support really appreciated 🤓🤙
If you have lithium then you'd have to have a charge controller anyway. So your smart switch ain't wrong but it's only correct about connecting directly to the batteries.
Thanks for sharing the sensible explanation 😊
My pleasure 😊
The Ring RSCDC30 is another option and has the advantage of having a solar panel input.
Took a picture of my battery to confirm a smart alternator setup. I can see the little black box. It's 2015 custom trend. I don't have stop start option in my van though🤔 Can I assume from the little box that I have a smart alternator? Also I am hearing that smart relays do work with AGM batteries. Am I right? Your video is amazingly helpful. Helps a non tech person like me no end.... 👍
Yes you have a smart alternator so you will need a DC to CD charge controller that work fine with AGM battery’s thank you for the kind words really do appreciate your encouragement 👍😊👍
Chekhov now do a dc to dc charger for lithium as well, identical to the original but called the 250SE. Hope this helps.
Ctek now have a lithium version model D250SE and Smartpass 120s
Cool 👍🤓👍
Just been researching this,
C Tek
D250S is the original unit
D250SA was there last unit
D250SE is there latest with use with LiFePo4 includes all other battery types
Integrated solar mppt
20amp charging or 140amps with the addition SmartPass 120
Sterling
BB1230 and BB1260
All battery types
30and and 60amp charge current model dependant
No Integrated solar
Victron Orion-Tr 12-12/30 smart
All battery types
30amp charge current extra units are used in parallel to increase current eg 30+30=60amps two units £274x2
This is quick short insight, please do a in-depth research before making a purchase.
Careful if running a negative cable to the starter battery, connection may defeat current sensor!!! I would imagine this will give the computer/alternator the wrong info ??
Mel love your videos, very informative
Awesome videos by Sterling Power
th-cam.com/video/3npZQ7JGp0A/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/cJlk2nMGrys/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for taking the time to help really appreciate it 👍🤓👍
Very useful Mel, thanks!
You’re absolutely welcome 👍🍻
50 amp Renergy
Dc to dc charger with not solar charger 260 to 300 US dollars it isolates starter battery solar charges all battery has settings for lithium A G M
Led acid different charge profiles and has battery heat sensor
cheers Mel, just what I was looking for
Thank you for taking the time to comment really appreciated 👍
thanks for all the info.
You’re absolutely welcome
You are full of knowledge and explain things where even i can understand lol thanks Mel xxx
Sarah Oliver thank you. 🤓🤙🍻
Wanted to relay that I get amped up for the vids, and thanks for not charging ;)
Lol, very good 😂
Hi mate, there are loads of companies make these battery chargers from as little as £60 ring, vitron and sterling make them.
Thank you and yes that’s true I use the ring DC 2 DC controller 🤓👍
LOL the ones that did not comment knew you were pulling their leg
Ford have used smart charging Alternators sinve around 2000. Battery monitors have not been used fitted to cars until around 2010 (dependant on manufacurer). My 2006 Transit had smart charging with no monitor.
Thank you that’s really interesting 👍🤓👍
To do with emissions and stuff....Euro 6 compliance
Thank you for this information I've just bought a ford transit and wondered this going to check now! Thank you
You’re absolutely welcome don’t forget to like share and subscribe really appreciate your support 🤓👍🍺
Thanks for the info Mel great help👍🙂
No problem 👍
Some transits have twin batterys in , as well as a built in spilt charge system like mine how smart is that lol
Is this something you can connect to a leisure battery. I have 2 batteries in mine
Thanks . Great explanation.
Thank you you’re absolutely welcome 👍🤓👍
Really helpful advice . Thanks Mel
Glad it was helpful!
Hi guys I have read somewhere that you can just unplug the smart receiver from the negative terminal then your alternator reverts to around 14v charge, then you can use just a standard split charge relay, I do not know if this will cause engine management issues on the vehicle or whether or not your vehicle will throw a wobbly.
Nice vid. I have installed the ctek smart charger / solar in vans. Twice actually. Yes, annoying that cTEK have not brought one out with the Lithium charging protocol.
Because this device only charges at 20A o was wondering about combining it with a CCCV charger that is rated at 20a or two smaller ones paralleled together.
These are easily available on eBay etc.
Nigel Dolman Hi Nigel I have put a link in the description to a great (not life changing) but still solves the problems it’s a DC to DC charger and solar controller all in one check it out you may find it useful I’ll be ordering one soon 🤓🤙
Oh great. Thanks.
Thanks for the info 👍🏻
terry 55 your welcome thanks for your support 🤓🤙
Sterling produces a B2B charger, for smart alternators, that will charge lithium batteries
That’s good if you have lithium batteries but me personally I don’t like them
Great video 👍
Thank you hope it was helpful 👍
variable vol-age al-a-nay-or
Victorian o'ryan Smart DC DC charger will we'll solve your smart alternator problems for Lithium applications
Smart charge batteries that ford fit are silver calcium. And smart charge alternator's have a over running clutch if that helps
Wow! Helpful thank you
You’re absolutely welcome 👍🤓👍
The National Luna charger available in SouthAfrica charges Li-ion batteries
the link to your daughters sight works Mel. She has your smile so I`m sure she`ll do well. lol
elfbell awww thank you 🤓🤙
Hey Mel!! Good to see you my friend... Great info thanks for sharing.. ✌️ 😎 🍺
Sal Suarez you’re welcome Sal thanks for your support really appreciated 🤓🤙
Redarc Australia for all your 12 volt systems Components
Absolutely I’ll be using them again for sure when I get back there and build out another van for winter prospecting 👍😊👍
Very informative Mel. Thanks very much.
Baloo Bear thank you 🤓🤙
You can use a renogy dc/dc charger
Looking forward to next video
Very useful video Mel, keep up the good work fella 👍
i had a split charge system on my old van & the alternator packed up after a few years
dave broadbent oh mate sorry to hear that 🤓🤙
Hi Mel😀don't forget to leave a link for your daughter's channel next video👍Have a wonderful weekend🌾🍁🍂
Lisa gempup thank you honey I just put link in description would you let me know if it works thank you 🤓🤙
Mel’s World it worked👍Got her thanks😊🚐🌾
Lisa gempup thank you so much 😊
check out road pro they do a range of dc to dc chargers I have votronic 3324 30amps £160.00, 3year guarantee. It will charge any battery and I have a LCD screen that tells me how many amps is being put into starter and leisure battery and the level of charge in each battery
What van do you have?
@@jaimigrant7090 transit mk8
Check out renogy dc to dc 50 amps charger inverter
Thank you 😊
Check-out the REDARC BCDC 1225/1240 - compact heavy duty in vehicle dual battery charger which will handle both standard and smart alternators and all battery types.
Charlie Anderson thank wi will have a look at that sounds impressive 🤙🤓
Bloody hell mel that was like going back to school
Brian Boczko ops sorry 🤓🤙
Can that Gadget be removed from the negative terminal & a standard alternator fitted?, that's what i would prefer (old school) less to go wrong.
I’m very doubtful if that would be a good idea 👍😊👍
Unless your a car audio guy then the voltage really matters.
Very interesting video my good friend I never realise that
van life Cornwall uk thank you you are welcome thanks for watching and your positive feedback really appreciated 🤓🤙
Hi Mel. Good knowledge 👍
GKUK Dash Cam VW Cali thank you really appreciate your positive feedback 🤓🤙
What's Ah of the Bluetti battery pack inside unit? If the Ah works out cheaper than lithium 12v battery(s) then it's a good setup.
Did you buy it off Amazon or was it a freebie?
Regards Jas.
I have a 2018 Ram Promaster City. Same as 4 cylinder Fiat Ducato. Would trying to charge a 155 AGM 12v gell cause my alternator to burn out in 5 minutes??
I’m sorry I really don’t know
I will check out your daughter's TH-cam channel!
Brilliant. Thank you. So clear !!
( can the smart ones charge agm batteries ?)
Thank you and yes with the rite controller 👍
Ctek 250se or other makers available
Hi Mel - good info. Comfortably Lost in Oz fitted a split charge system that handles Lithium to their Sprinter. I'm seeing a few Dc to DC chargers pop up now - similar prices here in NZ to a VSR Split charge system and some also do Solar input too with MPPT - so probably a better option?? I read the other day that the Smart Alternators will never fully charge an AGM battery, only capable of charging to 80% due to the limited output Voltage of the alternator - to keep the emissions down - am wondering if this is correct?
I stick to me old led acid simple works and it’s cheep and more compatible with the battery that’s fitted to the van 👍🤓👍
@@BigVanSmallWorld Me too, have an AGM leisure battery. I think the Lithium split chargers are very expensive. But the DC to DC (with MPPT) are good for AGM leisure batteries, and cost a bit less than one of the victron MPPT solar controllers here.
And thay charge at higher voltage mine in the morning when cold goes to 14.9 volts and when it's got wormer is goes to 14.3
Is there a certain year they change to smart or is it maybe all front drive vans.i fancied a front drive but that put me of .dont lead acid give off gas fume in the van.
Intetesting stuff mel...nice one😁
Great vid mel 👌
So this is on any make or model vehicle?
Ive got a crafter ... 👍
Thank you and yes as far as I know it’s across the board on most vehicles 👍🤓👍
@@BigVanSmallWorld Good man , i was all ready to film me installing my split charge and someone mentioned a smart alternator...
Totally stopped me in my tracks 😂😂
Cheers pal 👍
I'm currently looking at a dc to dc charger instead of the split relay. Not sure what your thoughts are?
Definitely get the ring dc to dc mppt controller 👍😊
@@BigVanSmallWorld I was looking at the renogy 40amp??
Hi Mel, what if you just disconnect that little black box on the negative cable, can you use the chaeper relae than?? Regards Rickard from Sweden
I wouldn’t do that if I was you
@@BigVanSmallWorld ofcourse not... have a good day mate!
Sorry but a standard alternator does not stay constant, the nominal voltage when it is not required to work hard is 13.8 v .If the batteries require some charging, you can see up to around 14.7 v
Thats what i noticed in xterra 2012.. Starts with above 14 v and then drops to 13.5 v
Smart alternator don't charge at first, many people replace their alternator thinking its knackered.
Dave Judd that’s interesting and useful to know thank you 🤓🤙
Where can I connect to D+ wire for a B2b charger In a 2010 transit jumbo 2.4?
To the positive on the engine batteries
At the moment solar is not charging , too overcast. Did had a splitcharge that came with the van but for some reason it stopped charging , two batterys down at 73% solar have been keeping there over the last few days, thats why i want to fit a votronic battery to battery charger , little drive and will top up batterys .
Your van looks good Mel from across the road! The near side window 👍 I also have, great for seeing around, less cave effect. Somebody keeps mentioning or possibly a few but are you actually Australian? I feel a bit of a twat for asking for some reason 🙈
Hello mel have you any good ideas on security on the back doors i worrie about being parked up and some one brakeing in ?
Hi Mel,
Has you transit only got one battery under the driver seat?
No it had two 👍
Rubbish. Li-on batteries are fine. Just use a proper DC to DC charger and attach the third light gauge wire to the ignition circuit where there is power only when the motor is running. Simples.
Does you vans only have one battery mine has two from the factory. In my van everything MUST be connected to the front battery as the other is for starting and electronics for some reason. Can you change the alternator?
Hey Mel - great video thx - my Transit doesnt have smart alternator thankfully. Split charge works great. I recently added an AC hookup with a charger unit to the leisure battery - all good (if a bit noisy the cheaper ones - watchout) - Heres the rub; when the leisure battery reaches full on AC charge, I can hear the split charger start to click on and off again??? Its almost like its trying to reverse the split and AC charge the car battery back through the split. Is that possible? And how to fix? TVM
That's exactly what it does. It's dual sensing. 👍🏻
But did it fix it tho mel
Do you have another link for the smartalternator/relay, as the link below (Ebay) does not take you there??
I refuse to believe that anyone at all would use anything else than a dc-dc charger in 2021.. nice way to kill batteries sooner.
Hi Mel, I wish I had found this video first! I have a Vauxhall Vivaro sport 2017 & I've installed a standard split charge relay with a 140ah Leisure battery, it goes crazy when the engine starts and clicks quickly, I didn't think anything of it and have been using it for a month or so with having to charge the battery manually every other day too, do you think I have caused any damage to the battery? I don't want to spend £200 on a B2B controller if I've ruined my brand new £200 battery too 😟, thank you for the video and your help! Shane,
Good morning buddy it you have an AGM or led acid battery as long as you haven’t drained it lower than 12.02 v you should be ok personally I don’t like to let mine go below 12.2 what I would do is charge the battery then leave it to stand disconnected for 24 hours then test the voltage you want about 12.8 to 13 v or higher to remain if it does this you’re golden good luck 🤞
I bought a CTEK 250sa and it was a piece of junk and would only charge a lead acid battery I upgraded to the sterling power cos it can use lithium I will do a video if you like.
Graham Hardy 26 I know I do say in the video that they only charge led battery’s
@@BigVanSmallWorld I will do a review video on mine on Monday for you, I'm locked out the van ATM left my bloody keys at work in my locker🤦♂️
Will have to check my battery tomorrow, I have same van as you LWB medium roof RWD but I have 2 batteries under my drivers seat ?
GAZO D my van has two batteries under the seat as well 🤓🤙
@@BigVanSmallWorld Sorry only seen the one. Made me wonder why mine had two :) . will be checking mine later as about to do the wiring later this week.
GAZO D no worries don’t be sorry it’s quite common for transits to have two battery’s good luck with it do let us know how you get on 🤓🤙