I just watched this again today. I haven’t had a stainless revolver until recently, but this video really helped!!! It was surprising how well it worked with how little pressure. Thanks For making this video. I appreciate it. My 629 has never looked better!!
Today I cleaned my .357 mag, and used Mothers mag and aluminum polish, and a microfiber towel, and it came off much easier than your pad and Hoppe's did. And it polished the finish, and no risk of scratching.
The scotchbrite will absolutely remove small amounts of metal, evidenced by the new scratches on the surface. These scratches also give a great place for future fouling to accumulate and grip onto forcing one to remove more metal to get into the small scratches where the fouling hides. Whether this metal removed will amount to a measurable increase in cylinder gap depends on how much you do it. I don't care much about removing the rings, but I'll occasionally use a brass brush to minimize it.
Thanks for this great idea. I have many stainless steel revolvers. I started using the pads you suggested and they work great. Easy to do. A little messy with the Hoppes but well worth the effort. Thanks again for a truly great idea.
I have been fighting this problem for years. You are the first one that gave an easy sure fired solution. Thank you Marshal. I really enjoy your channel. Keep those vids coming.
Thank you very much. I tried your technique, and it worked very well. It took a bit longer than I expected- I haven't spent that much time rubbing something out since I was 14 years old. Anyway, it worked, and I thank you again.
I used a nylon brush and patches with a pick and some Q-tips for the rest of my gun, but I was really worried about taking out that brass brush on stainless steel. Thank you for that quick answer to the last piece of my gun that was giving me trouble. Have a good one!
Flitz metal polish works really well and there's no chance of leaving scratches on the finish. Takes a couple applications, but in the end it's spotless.
@opisex Yes, I do clean my bore and I do refinish my gun if it gets scratched. If you clean your gun after each use it is easy to keep it clean. It is when you let it build up that it becomes difficult.
Well done! I like your method. I use a different method that also works. That is, I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish on a rag or sometimes with a toothbrush. It cleans the front the cylinder easily, quickly, and perfectly and it also very gently polishes the metal so it's less porous and, over time, it becomes even easier to clean.
I knocked off some dullness on my 686 cylinder front with Mothers mag wheel polish and the burn marks come right off with a rag and CLP. Of course, an earlier video of yours inspired me to polish the entire revolver as well.
Mothers chrome polish cleans the burn rings on my revolvers like nothing else. It's messy and gets into the cylinder chambers, but I then use a bore brush and it also cleans the burn lines inside the cylinder too. Hose it all out with bore blaster and it's ready for light oil and storage. Makes my revolvers look new and unfired. It also is good on the built up carbon on the frame around the forcing cone/barrel.
Strikehold is the best cleaner/solvent/non-oil dry lubricant I've ever come across...and I have used everything. I threw everything else away and replaced all with just Strikehold. They sell to military and internationally.
Greetings Marshall - i enjoy your videos. i have found that using stainless steel and aluminum cleaner - the same stuff i use to clean my weber stainless steel outdoor grill - works great and is easy to use to remove the burn ring on my stainless .357 ruger sp-101. just apply it with a paper towel or cloth, q-tips for the chambers, and wipe it off. burn ring and burn residue gone.
Great tip... that I watched while I was cleaning the cylinder of a model 60-15 with Cape Cod polishing cloths. They worked but WOW that took a lot of scrubbing. Gun looks good as new and has a "pleasant vanilla fragrance" now. LOL
Now, THAT's a new one! This is bound to be an advertising campaign eventually: "Leaves guns smelling fresh!"! Something like Ballistol but also like Febreez, you know? Or Ballistol could just come in flavors?
Thank you a lot sir. But in my place (Italy) we don't have this kind of cleaner. To remove the stubborn burn marks, I use "SMAC brillacciaio" that is a steel's stain remover, and works greatly. Have a nice day. Dave.
This was genius! Worked flawlessly. To clean have the cylinder I used about a dozen Kleen Bore pre-soaked mini lead wipes. Then I switched to the Scotch Brite pad for the other half. Boom. It was great! So reusable and cheaper.
I've watched this channel for a long while, but just today found this vid. Awesome tip, I've scrubbed at those stains in my Ruger GP 100 for a month off and on using my regular solvent and brush, and they're finally gone.
Thanks for the tip. I have used a brass gun cleaning brush with hoppes #9 and it works pretty good on my Redhawk. The scotchbrite pad looks like it does a better job tho and will try that next time. Also on my blued revolvers I take the cylinder off the gun and soak it with the front end down in a small jar with solvent in it. Breaks most of it loose but its pretty hard to see anyway if the bluing is in good shape.
ANYONE WHO WATCHES THIS AND SEES MY REPLY! The BC lead removal cloth is simply AMAZING! I used it on a 1963 Colt Python barrel that looked ABYSMAL! I've never seen a barrel so full of lead and the range I worked at in the '90s didn't always clean the rental guns as the should but THIS THING WAS HORRENDOUS! ( I have before and after pics ) I'm glad I too the advice of my LGS and didn't send it back to the seller. Took TWO of the cloths to get it clean enough to where it shines like a mirror. But here ya have it! I swear by the stuff for lead removal. I use Mother's Magnesium Polish as well, for lead, but the BC cloth is awesome. :)
i use scotchbrite pads on my glass top stove all the time to clean it and never scratches it...make sure it says non scratch on the package when you buy it
Me too. I put a dab of Flitz on end of finger. Stuff wipes right off like magic. No pads or scrubbing needed, definitely the way to go. Not sure how it would affect a blued finish.
@fire1777 I would not recommend a dremel with anything abrasive. I have seen some pretty messed up cylinders from doing that.The cylinder face can start to look wavey.
I recently shot some dirty Armscor cowboy ammo in my matte finish .44 mag. it smoked and leaded my ports and cylinder! I tried all the solvents -no go ! -Someone said to try a childs pink eraser! Wow simple and it works great with little effort !You can buy 6 for $1.50 ! Thanks to whomever said that! I looked but could not find the comment to thank them !!
A metal polish like the ones used to polish tarnished brass and a cotton tshirt works. Flitz or semi chrome work well. I use it on my blued Colt detective special and it doesn’t seem to remove the bluing.
Go with Kleen Bore, light years ahead of anything and not abrasive. I break the entire gun down after any rounds fired and fully clean and re-lubricate. In so doing this allows the entire cylinder assembly to be taken apart and with the Kleen Bore cloth cut into small sections, with complete rubbing the front end comes out better than new. Phenomenal product. I use Hoppes for the barrel, as well Kleen Bore. The combination is exceptional.
Nice video! I usually use flitz and a dremel buffer which works wonders but requires a very deep clean in order to remove all of the flitz particulates. I love taking my revolvers apart, but there's a limit to what I'm willing to do :p
I tried this on my S&W 686 using the basic green Scotch-Brite pad and Hoppe's - worked great! I went over it a second time with Butch's Bore Shine (and on the forcing cone) - the gun looks the best it has since it was new! Took all of about ten minutes - great suggestion!
Very nice. the 686 I bought the other day was a rental gun at the gun store I got it from and the front of the cylinder is basically black so I'm going to get scrubbin. Great video as always YM!
I totally agree with you. I take the burns off all my revolvers as well. I hate seeing burn marks on Stainless, bright Stainless and nickel revolvers. In addition that Magnum Carry is a real beauty sir.
The M-Pro 7 cleaner works better than Hoppes on my 686. In fact, I was amazed how well it worked. I used to get a build-up of crud around the forcing cone from shooting lead wadcutters and semi-wadcutters that was difficult to remove but the M-Pro 7 just seems to melt it away.
I started using surgical gloves when using any petrol based solvent.Stuff gets in my bloodstream if I don't and gives me a bad headache.The vapors can do it to but I found not nearly as bad when using gloves
I had this trouble for decades. Got some JB bore cleaning compound and an old toothbrush and it cleans the blast-rings like magic!! If you are too impatient, (like me) lightly use a brass brush instead of a toothbrush. Makes the gun look new again. Don't know how the stuff works on a bore. Never tried it there...
I suspect the white no scratch pads are the way to go. Try a dampened white pad with a little diatomaceous earth. The pad and the de should be softer than the ss. You can check for scratching on a smooth surface on the gun.
Thank you for the video. Put a single action six shooter of mine away for an outing and forgot to clean it. it sat for a little while and i pulled it from the my safe to head to the range. Inspected and Saw my cylinder like you show and was like sh*t!!! tried cleaning but to no avail. used your method and it's like new! Thought my pistol was done for. Thank you....
Thank ya Yank! Ya showed me something new!! I asked my gun shop if there was anyhting I could do to take those ugly burn marks off the cylinder as I had tried relentlessly with the brush and oil but to no avail. They said there was no way to take that off and the rings would stay that color...... FOREVER!!! I did not believe him so I went on a search and have tried rubbin the heck out of it. I gots the Hoppes! So I cannot wait to go home and clean itl I will do a VR fer that
A toothbrush style BRASS brush with Hoppe's #9 will take those right off on a stainless or blued revolver, and a brass brush is LESS abrasive than your Scotchbrite pad. A brass brush absolutely will not harm a steel revolver, its too soft, while a Scotchbrite pad is abrasive to stainless steel, it will remove a tiny bit of metal, a brass brush won't do that.
TheYankeeMarshal I've done it a bunch of times with my duty revolver, I cleaned the entire cylinder face in about the same time it took to do that small space in the video, much faster, and no risk of damage from the embedded abrasives in the Scotchbrite pad. I sold 3M products at the wholesale level after I retired from law enforcement, I know how aggressive those pads are, a Scotchbrite pad will abrade stainless steel, they are quite aggressive.
Now that's informative. My .22 Taurus refuses to clean up... Maybe because the ANCIENT .22 Shorts I found in the safe exploded in the cylinder burning the barrel, front cylinder, back cylinder, and around the firing pin. They were so weak I didn't even know the casings were splitting till I felt something hit my cheek 4 rounds into it. I was devastated, my favorite tin can shooter. Can't wait to buy some Hops 9 tomorrow and try it out!
I was very happy cleaning my 642 with one of those new fangled Tipton "Power Clean" electric brushes. I bought it to clean my Remington 11-87 gas system (it was totally worth the $40 for this job alone). But it sure made quick work of the marks on the 642. Yes, I use some Hoppes on it as well.
I know this is old. I only have one revolver - 6" Bull Barrel Stainless 7 Shoot Stainless Steel Taurus - but I'd been wondering how to remove the lead stains. Thanks. My fiancee and I love your videos, keep up the good work!
Yep. It worked. It took a lot of elbow grease and a fair amount of time. Flitz and a rag worked a lot faster than the Hoppes and Scotch Brite, but I think that it changed the finish on the front of the cylinder from a satin or brushed finish to a highly polished finish. I'll probably stick with the Hoppes/Scotch Brite.
I have been using a brass brush and man it's a pain! They fall apart and get those little brass strands everywhere. Definitely gotta try this! Thanks for the tip, TYM! =)
i would recomend you look at the charts for the different types of scotch brite. there are different types for different metals, plastics ect. it could possibly leave microscopic scratchs that will make it harder to remove carbon deposits later. and if all else fails you can use some polish to fix the small scratchs. the hopps would aid in lunbricant to prevent alot of damage.
believe it or not but i do very well with just a simple damp paper towel on my gp100 used it in a pinch one day and figured hell its stainless water won't hurt it a bit, and it works pretty good. odd thing is the forcing cone seems to come clean and the frame around it far easier than the cylinder
took me about 10 minutes to get the burn marks off my stainless gp100. used q tip and mothers mag & aluminum polish. in fact i did whole gun with it. made stainless look very much like nickle plate..might take a little longer if you never polished out burn marks before.
He removed the cylinder & used steel wool on the face. I thought same thing about stray fibers, my next thoughts were compressed air & bronze wool. I've never seen such a thing as synthetic steel wool myself. Scotchbrite has silicon carbide or aluminum oxide grit mixed in the plastic, grit varies with pad color. The pad with which I ruined glass in 1979 was brown, and I've been very careful with Scotchbrite ever since. I have some that is dark green; I would not use it on my gun unless rusty.
I have a K22 Masterpiece that has ZERO end shake on the cylinder because I have shot it so much that the cylinder front face is all leaded up. Occasionally I have to clean it off but those lead Eley Match bullets make a mess. But man is that an accurate gun. Thanks for loving revolvers Yankee M.
There are less abrasive pads then Scothbrite pads now. Mostly they are marketed to clean non-stick pans which cannot have Scotchbrite used on them. I wonder if they would be better in the sense you could put more pressure on them.
I used some jewelry tarnish remover (it's a paste) with a soft rag and it took all the burn rings off completely. there are probably many different methods, this one worked well on stainless. by the way I used hoppe's to clean everything first.
Thanks for the vid upload I fire lead bullets mostly in my revolver and it gets really dirty. I tried this method with the scotch pad, I used gun scrubber as alternative to Hoppes 9. Burn rings came right off, took about 5 minutes. Cylinder look like new. Again thanks.
Flitz metal polish and a extra-fine brass brush works quire well and removes no metal at all. Makes it look like the gun has never been fired. At least that is my experience as a machinist.
I bought an air eraser from ebay. Its an airbrush-sized mediablaster. I used baking soda to clean the burn rings from the cylinder and the crud around the forcing cone. it works a charm. I used it on a stainless S&W 686, dont know if it will hurt bluing. Also good for removing rust and other debris.
My fingers thank you for this video. Up til now I've been using a rag and elbow grease transferred through my fingers. They don't appreciate that kind if abuse very much.
How about a small brass, wire wheel in the end of a drill or a dremel? Brass is softer than steel and if you use plenty of Hoppes it should work faster without scratching the finish correct? I used your method on my Redhawk and it took me nearly two hours. It does look new again though....thanks.
I used a lighter grit scotch bright pad, my friends asked if my .44 was brad new. I also used a little powder solvent and a tooth brush, takes longer but it works too. You can can use the tooth brush as many times as you want too.
Great video I have a stainless S&W that I have not fired in around 20 years because of that problem. If the entire cylinder isn't clean, the gun is not clean. (I have a touch of OCD also) Years went by without firing it because it was just such a pain in the ass to get clean. Now my Smith is going back into the rotation, and maybe the other handguns will quit teasing him.
@NormNip Ruger uses your basic 400 family of stainless steel. It is nothing especially hard. You could shoot your gun every day and clean it in this manner for 20 years before seeing a noticeable loss of surface material. A scotchbrite pad is not hard enough to damage the surface.
i found on stainless, a good metal/chrome polish and a cotton swab cut from old t-shirts will do awesome and no risk of marring the metal or scoring. you have to make sure your firearm is stainless and not nickel finish.
Scotchbrite will score stainless. I detail cars for a living. Scotchbrite performs like sandpaper. But you are correct in the video it would take a work week of scrubbing to make a dent in it. So yeah what TYM said.
This is the best stuff that I have seen on cleaning the burn rings off of you're cylinders. You should give it a try. No scrubbing necessary and works quickly. Great Stuff. Give it a try
Flitz metal polish and a soft toothbrush makes them go away in a few minutes. Any tips for removing the 38 Spl marks from inside a 357 Mag chamber easily, quickly and safely?
The lead-away cloths do work, but even better is Eagle One's Never-Dull cotton wadding. Available at any auto-parts store. I've used both, the the Never-Dull is superior. Then use a brass toothbrush. This only takes a few minutes. But - use only on stainless-steel. It will remove bluing.
Excellent tip! I have been suffering from embarrassing burn rings for years and thought I would just have to live with them.... "Thank you YankeeMarshal!"... Sorry, I was just imagining I was in a black & white 1950s TV commercial... Seriously though, great info...
Best thing to use is a typewriter eraser or a standard pencil eraser. Used that method for over 15 years carrying a revolver.
thanks a lot. pensil eraser works perfectly
I'll try that for a dollar!!!!!!
I like how you mentioned the typewriter first as if it’s more accessible than a pencil
You mean the blue half of the pink and blue eraser?
@@Antoninorosetta lol robo cop
put your Hoppes #9 in a spray bottle and spray your pad or patch. That way you are not dipping your dirty pad in your clean bottle of solvent.
@charleen heath
Good idea, thanks for the tip!!!!
New patch each time ALWAYS wiping off the Rod AND if your hands Get Dirty Wash them or pass on the Dirt!😎
I just watched this again today. I haven’t had a stainless revolver until recently, but this video really helped!!! It was surprising how well it worked with how little pressure. Thanks For making this video. I appreciate it. My 629 has never looked better!!
Today I cleaned my .357 mag, and used Mothers mag and aluminum polish, and a microfiber towel, and it came off much easier than your pad and Hoppe's did. And it polished the finish, and no risk of scratching.
The scotchbrite will absolutely remove small amounts of metal, evidenced by the new scratches on the surface. These scratches also give a great place for future fouling to accumulate and grip onto forcing one to remove more metal to get into the small scratches where the fouling hides. Whether this metal removed will amount to a measurable increase in cylinder gap depends on how much you do it. I don't care much about removing the rings, but I'll occasionally use a brass brush to minimize it.
Thanks for this great idea. I have many stainless steel revolvers. I started using the pads you suggested and they work great. Easy to do. A little messy with the Hoppes but well worth the effort. Thanks again for a truly great idea.
I have been fighting this problem for years. You are the first one that gave an easy sure fired solution. Thank you Marshal. I really enjoy your channel. Keep those vids coming.
Thank you very much. I tried your technique, and it worked very well. It took a bit longer than I expected- I haven't spent that much time rubbing something out since I was 14 years old. Anyway, it worked, and I thank you again.
I used a nylon brush and patches with a pick and some Q-tips for the rest of my gun, but I was really worried about taking out that brass brush on stainless steel. Thank you for that quick answer to the last piece of my gun that was giving me trouble. Have a good one!
Good tip. Don't think of that. What also works is Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish.
Thats what I use. Works better than anything I've used
Mother's is what I always use.
Flitz metal polish works really well and there's no chance of leaving scratches on the finish. Takes a couple applications, but in the end it's spotless.
@opisex Yes, I do clean my bore and I do refinish my gun if it gets scratched. If you clean your gun after each use it is easy to keep it clean. It is when you let it build up that it becomes difficult.
Well done! I like your method. I use a different method that also works. That is, I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish on a rag or sometimes with a toothbrush. It cleans the front the cylinder easily, quickly, and perfectly and it also very gently polishes the metal so it's less porous and, over time, it becomes even easier to clean.
Exactly what I do. 👍🏼
@wmd44110 brass brushes do the job, but I have found that over time they leave a heavy brushed look to even satin finishes.
Had been trying everything on my 686,, let it soak a few hours in hoppes and used a scotch brite, it came right off. Thanks for the tip.
but with very little pressure,
Pre-soaking sounds like a very good idea! Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner as well?
I knocked off some dullness on my 686 cylinder front with Mothers mag wheel polish and the burn marks come right off with a rag and CLP. Of course, an earlier video of yours inspired me to polish the entire revolver as well.
Very good work, thanks from Brazil.
One of the countries with the greatest restrictions on guns and the highest rates of urban violence.
Mothers chrome polish cleans the burn rings on my revolvers like nothing else. It's messy and gets into the cylinder chambers, but I then use a bore brush and it also cleans the burn lines inside the cylinder too. Hose it all out with bore blaster and it's ready for light oil and storage. Makes my revolvers look new and unfired. It also is good on the built up carbon on the frame around the forcing cone/barrel.
Strikehold is the best cleaner/solvent/non-oil dry lubricant I've ever come across...and I have used everything. I threw everything else away and replaced all with just Strikehold. They sell to military and internationally.
Greetings Marshall - i enjoy your videos. i have found that using stainless steel and aluminum cleaner - the same stuff i use to clean my weber stainless steel outdoor grill - works great and is easy to use to remove the burn ring on my stainless .357 ruger sp-101. just apply it with a paper towel or cloth, q-tips for the chambers, and wipe it off. burn ring and burn residue gone.
Great tip... that I watched while I was cleaning the cylinder of a model 60-15 with
Cape Cod polishing cloths. They worked but WOW that took a lot of scrubbing. Gun looks good as new and has a "pleasant vanilla fragrance" now. LOL
Now, THAT's a new one! This is bound to be an advertising campaign eventually: "Leaves guns smelling fresh!"! Something like Ballistol but also like Febreez, you know? Or Ballistol could just come in flavors?
What about immersion cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner? Has anyone tried that?
wow! Thanks YM. I didn't think it looked "that bad" before cleaning. What a surprising difference. I can't wait to see how good mine will look now.
Great helpful info. Im one of those guys showing off my collection with a dirty revolver because i couldnt get off burn marks. Good stuff!!! Thx
Thank you a lot sir. But in my place (Italy) we don't have this kind of cleaner. To remove the stubborn burn marks, I use "SMAC brillacciaio" that is a steel's stain remover, and works greatly.
Have a nice day.
Dave.
This was genius! Worked flawlessly.
To clean have the cylinder I used about a dozen Kleen Bore pre-soaked mini lead wipes.
Then I switched to the Scotch Brite pad for the other half. Boom. It was great! So reusable and cheaper.
I've watched this channel for a long while, but just today found this vid. Awesome tip, I've scrubbed at those stains in my Ruger GP 100 for a month off and on using my regular solvent and brush, and they're finally gone.
Birchwood casey makes these lead remover patches that rub burn rings right off with no effort.
I tried those. Literally did nothing
@@tuco86x you got to just keep working at it. Apply some good pressure and rub as your rotating the cylinder
Thanks for the tip. I have used a brass gun cleaning brush with hoppes #9 and it works pretty good on my Redhawk. The scotchbrite pad looks like it does a better job tho and will try that next time. Also on my blued revolvers I take the cylinder off the gun and soak it with the front end down in a small jar with solvent in it. Breaks most of it loose but its pretty hard to see anyway if the bluing is in good shape.
Birchwood Casey lead removal cloths work great!
michael hayes Absolutely does! And little to no scrubbing.
It sure does. Just make sure you wear gloves when using it.
ANYONE WHO WATCHES THIS AND SEES MY REPLY! The BC lead removal cloth is simply AMAZING! I used it on a 1963 Colt Python barrel that looked ABYSMAL! I've never seen a barrel so full of lead and the range I worked at in the '90s didn't always clean the rental guns as the should but THIS THING WAS HORRENDOUS! ( I have before and after pics )
I'm glad I too the advice of my LGS and didn't send it back to the seller.
Took TWO of the cloths to get it clean enough to where it shines like a mirror.
But here ya have it! I swear by the stuff for lead removal. I use Mother's Magnesium Polish as well, for lead, but the BC cloth is awesome.
:)
i use scotchbrite pads on my glass top stove all the time to clean it and never scratches it...make sure it says non scratch on the package when you buy it
Me too.
I put a dab of Flitz on end of finger. Stuff wipes right off like magic. No pads or scrubbing needed, definitely the way to go.
Not sure how it would affect a blued finish.
@fire1777 I would not recommend a dremel with anything abrasive. I have seen some pretty messed up cylinders from doing that.The cylinder face can start to look wavey.
I recently shot some dirty Armscor cowboy ammo in my matte finish .44 mag. it smoked and leaded my ports and cylinder! I tried all the solvents -no go ! -Someone said to try a childs pink eraser! Wow simple and it works great with little effort !You can buy 6 for $1.50 !
Thanks to whomever said that! I looked but could not find the comment to thank them !!
Oh my goodness thank you so much!
Synthetic steel wool is like a finer grain of scotch bright pad. It is usually grey. It is the way to go.
I just used fine steel wool and lcp to remove light rust from an old 60s .22 that was given to me. It worked great and didn't hurt the finish at all.
A metal polish like the ones used to polish tarnished brass and a cotton tshirt works. Flitz or semi chrome work well. I use it on my blued Colt detective special and it doesn’t seem to remove the bluing.
I hope it is synthetic. Real steel wool can embed fibers into the steel and cause pitting issues.
Go with Kleen Bore, light years ahead of anything and not abrasive. I break the entire gun down after any rounds fired and fully clean and re-lubricate. In so doing this allows the entire cylinder assembly to be taken apart and with the Kleen Bore cloth cut into small sections, with complete rubbing the front end comes out better than new. Phenomenal product.
I use Hoppes for the barrel, as well Kleen Bore. The combination is exceptional.
Nice video! I usually use flitz and a dremel buffer which works wonders but requires a very deep clean in order to remove all of the flitz particulates. I love taking my revolvers apart, but there's a limit to what I'm willing to do :p
Good ole' Hoppe's number 9. The best cologne for men. Women can smell like roses or whatever but men should smell like Hoppe's number 9.
😂imma try that
Correct but don’t drink and drive with it and it does NOT shrink hemorrhoids . 🤠😵
@x8541 You should use synthetic steel wool. Using real steel wool can cause pitting and surface rust.
I tried this on my S&W 686 using the basic green Scotch-Brite pad and Hoppe's - worked great! I went over it a second time with Butch's Bore Shine (and on the forcing cone) - the gun looks the best it has since it was new! Took all of about ten minutes - great suggestion!
Very nice. the 686 I bought the other day was a rental gun at the gun store I got it from and the front of the cylinder is basically black so I'm going to get scrubbin. Great video as always YM!
I totally agree with you. I take the burns off all my revolvers as well. I hate seeing burn marks on Stainless, bright Stainless and nickel revolvers. In addition that Magnum Carry is a real beauty sir.
Thanks for the video. I tried with a toothbrush and wire brush could tell a difference but this method made it as if it never had the burns.
The M-Pro 7 cleaner works better than Hoppes on my 686. In fact, I was amazed how well it worked. I used to get a build-up of crud around the forcing cone from shooting lead wadcutters and semi-wadcutters that was difficult to remove but the M-Pro 7 just seems to melt it away.
Yea i just got all that off on my new 686 with a lead cleaning cloth! I also checked out your scratch removal vids! Good stuff!
For less scratching use a Scotch-Brite pad that has been used to clean pots/pans like dish washing, it'll still work fine but be less abrasive.
I started using surgical gloves when using any petrol based solvent.Stuff gets in my bloodstream if I don't and gives me a bad headache.The vapors can do it to but I found not nearly as bad when using gloves
Thank you. A scotch brite pad, or what was called a green wheenie in the Navy.Excellent
Great tip!
My S&W 686P is immaculate other than the cylinder face.
Now it too will shine.
Thank you!
I follow the scotch pad with a fine steel wool. It cleans areas where the the scotch pad is a little too coarse to reach.
I had this trouble for decades. Got some JB bore cleaning compound and an old toothbrush and it cleans the blast-rings like magic!! If you are too impatient, (like me) lightly use a brass brush instead of a toothbrush. Makes the gun look new again. Don't know how the stuff works on a bore. Never tried it there...
those scotchbrite pads are acually more abrasive than a brass brush
Not the No scratch Ones
@@captainamericaamerica8090 you are right but they are no scratch, good luck with than unless you are using some abrasive compound
I suspect the white no scratch pads are the way to go. Try a dampened white pad with a little diatomaceous earth. The pad and the de should be softer than the ss. You can check for scratching on a smooth surface on the gun.
Thank you for the video. Put a single action six shooter of mine away for an outing and forgot to clean it. it sat for a little while and i pulled it from the my safe to head to the range. Inspected and Saw my cylinder like you show and was like sh*t!!! tried cleaning but to no avail. used your method and it's like new! Thought my pistol was done for. Thank you....
Great VIDEO YANKEE!!!
I just got a S&W 60 with the
Cylinder Burn marks. Hoppe’s is the BEST.
Thank ya Yank! Ya showed me something new!! I asked my gun shop if there was anyhting I could do to take those ugly burn marks off the cylinder as I had tried relentlessly with the brush and oil but to no avail. They said there was no way to take that off and the rings would stay that color...... FOREVER!!! I did not believe him so I went on a search and have tried rubbin the heck out of it. I gots the Hoppes! So I cannot wait to go home and clean itl I will do a VR fer that
Might have to try some. Although I clean my guns so often that they never get very dirty.
Excellent video I clean a 629 Smith & Wesson 44 Magnum and it turned out beautiful
Pretty much any polishing compound will work...but the pads are a little easier.
A toothbrush style BRASS brush with Hoppe's #9 will take those right off on a stainless or blued revolver, and a brass brush is LESS abrasive than your Scotchbrite pad. A brass brush absolutely will not harm a steel revolver, its too soft, while a Scotchbrite pad is abrasive to stainless steel, it will remove a tiny bit of metal, a brass brush won't do that.
Wrong...scrubbing with the far spaced bristles of a brass brush cause you to need to make five or six passes for every one pass with a pad or cloth.
TheYankeeMarshal
I've done it a bunch of times with my duty revolver, I cleaned the entire cylinder face in about the same time it took to do that small space in the video, much faster, and no risk of damage from the embedded abrasives in the Scotchbrite pad. I sold 3M products at the wholesale level after I retired from law enforcement, I know how aggressive those pads are, a Scotchbrite pad will abrade stainless steel, they are quite aggressive.
Phish No whats right bristle density?
G56AG NJ
Glad to know I was doing it right the whole time. Thanks, G56AG.
I used a brass brush and Hoppes on a blued cylinder once. The brass transferred and made the cylinder look kinda bronze color.
Flitz and a beater T-shirt is ALL you need.
Nice. Thanks! My GP100 has been afflicted now with those same burn marks for nearly 30 years. Going to be shiny new looking very soon.
Now that's informative. My .22 Taurus refuses to clean up... Maybe because the ANCIENT .22 Shorts I found in the safe exploded in the cylinder burning the barrel, front cylinder, back cylinder, and around the firing pin. They were so weak I didn't even know the casings were splitting till I felt something hit my cheek 4 rounds into it. I was devastated, my favorite tin can shooter. Can't wait to buy some Hops 9 tomorrow and try it out!
I have a bead blasted Smith and Wesson and it's on the side of the cylinder what do I do to get that off without shining it ???
I was very happy cleaning my 642 with one of those new fangled Tipton "Power Clean" electric brushes. I bought it to clean my Remington 11-87 gas system (it was totally worth the $40 for this job alone). But it sure made quick work of the marks on the 642. Yes, I use some Hoppes on it as well.
I know this is old. I only have one revolver - 6" Bull Barrel Stainless 7 Shoot Stainless Steel Taurus - but I'd been wondering how to remove the lead stains. Thanks. My fiancee and I love your videos, keep up the good work!
Yep. It worked. It took a lot of elbow grease and a fair amount of time.
Flitz and a rag worked a lot faster than the Hoppes and Scotch Brite, but I think that it changed the finish on the front of the cylinder from a satin or brushed finish to a highly polished finish. I'll probably stick with the Hoppes/Scotch Brite.
I have been using a brass brush and man it's a pain! They fall apart and get those little brass strands everywhere. Definitely gotta try this! Thanks for the tip, TYM! =)
Right on !
I been usin hppes and a rag, just puttin in the time. This is way better. Thanks bro !!!!
i would recomend you look at the charts for the different types of scotch brite. there are different types for different metals, plastics ect. it could possibly leave microscopic scratchs that will make it harder to remove carbon deposits later. and if all else fails you can use some polish to fix the small scratchs. the hopps would aid in lunbricant to prevent alot of damage.
believe it or not but i do very well with just a simple damp paper towel on my gp100
used it in a pinch one day and figured hell its stainless water won't hurt it a bit, and it works pretty good. odd thing is the forcing cone seems to come clean and the frame around it far easier than the cylinder
took me about 10 minutes to get the burn marks off my stainless gp100. used q tip and mothers mag & aluminum polish. in fact i did whole gun with it. made stainless look very much like nickle plate..might take a little longer if you never polished out burn marks before.
He removed the cylinder & used steel wool on the face. I thought same thing about stray fibers, my next thoughts were compressed air & bronze wool. I've never seen such a thing as synthetic steel wool myself. Scotchbrite has silicon carbide or aluminum oxide grit mixed in the plastic, grit varies with pad color. The pad with which I ruined glass in 1979 was brown, and I've been very careful with Scotchbrite ever since. I have some that is dark green; I would not use it on my gun unless rusty.
I have a K22 Masterpiece that has ZERO end shake on the cylinder because I have shot it so much that the cylinder front face is all leaded up. Occasionally I have to clean it off but those lead Eley Match bullets make a mess.
But man is that an accurate gun.
Thanks for loving revolvers Yankee M.
There are less abrasive pads then Scothbrite pads now. Mostly they are marketed to clean non-stick pans which cannot have Scotchbrite used on them. I wonder if they would be better in the sense you could put more pressure on them.
I used some jewelry tarnish remover (it's a paste) with a soft rag and it took all the burn rings off completely. there are probably many different methods, this one worked well on stainless. by the way I used hoppe's to clean everything first.
Had to resort to a steel bristle brush on an old 686 that hadn't been cleaned in years. Looks beautiful now.
Thanks for the vid upload
I fire lead bullets mostly in my revolver and it gets really dirty. I tried this method with the scotch pad, I used gun scrubber as alternative to Hoppes 9. Burn rings came right off, took about 5 minutes. Cylinder look like new.
Again thanks.
I appreciate your video and the easy approach you use, thanks! It worked well...thank you!
So, what would u do with s blued revolver; with out removing the blueing???
Flitz metal polish and a extra-fine brass brush works quire well and removes no metal at all. Makes it look like the gun has never been fired. At least that is my experience as a machinist.
Flitz is my go to for getting the burn marks off...I just use a rag...
That’s how I do it,too.
I’ve been using metal polish or compound with a cotton rag for years and it works perfect!
Gracias! Worked like magic! was wondering how I was gonna get those burn rings off! Sweet thnx from my SW 686 plus!
I bought an air eraser from ebay. Its an airbrush-sized mediablaster. I used baking soda to clean the burn rings from the cylinder and the crud around the forcing cone. it works a charm. I used it on a stainless S&W 686, dont know if it will hurt bluing.
Also good for removing rust and other debris.
My fingers thank you for this video. Up til now I've been using a rag and elbow grease transferred through my fingers. They don't appreciate that kind if abuse very much.
How about a small brass, wire wheel in the end of a drill or a dremel? Brass is softer than steel and if you use plenty of Hoppes it should work faster without scratching the finish correct? I used your method on my Redhawk and it took me nearly two hours. It does look new again though....thanks.
+Pilgrim777 I would never use power to son anything I care about.
I used a lighter grit scotch bright pad, my friends asked if my .44 was brad new. I also used a little powder solvent and a tooth brush, takes longer but it works too. You can can use the tooth brush as many times as you want too.
I find the scotchbright pad cleans more evenly with less work.
Great video I have a stainless S&W that I have not fired in around 20 years because of that problem. If the entire cylinder isn't clean, the gun is not clean. (I have a touch of OCD also) Years went by without firing it because it was just such a pain in the ass to get clean. Now my Smith is going back into the rotation, and maybe the other handguns will quit teasing him.
@NormNip Ruger uses your basic 400 family of stainless steel. It is nothing especially hard. You could shoot your gun every day and clean it in this manner for 20 years before seeing a noticeable loss of surface material. A scotchbrite pad is not hard enough to damage the surface.
Never even heard of that product before. Will look for it.
i found on stainless, a good metal/chrome polish and a cotton swab cut from old t-shirts will do awesome and no risk of marring the metal or scoring. you have to make sure your firearm is stainless and not nickel finish.
Scotchbrite will score stainless. I detail cars for a living. Scotchbrite performs like sandpaper. But you are correct in the video it would take a work week of scrubbing to make a dent in it. So yeah what TYM said.
This is the best stuff that I have seen on cleaning the burn rings off of you're cylinders. You should give it a try. No scrubbing necessary and works quickly. Great Stuff. Give it a try
Scotch bright are made in several different grades, there are some that are less abrasive the green one.
Hoppe's is the stuff. Its what I was taught to clean with and still use it. I think I've had the same jar for almost 5 years now. Lasts forever.
Flitz metal polish and a soft toothbrush makes them go away in a few minutes. Any tips for removing the 38 Spl marks from inside a 357 Mag chamber easily, quickly and safely?
The lead-away cloths do work, but even better is Eagle One's Never-Dull cotton wadding. Available at any auto-parts store. I've used both, the the Never-Dull is superior. Then use a brass toothbrush. This only takes a few minutes. But - use only on stainless-steel. It will remove bluing.
Excellent tip! I have been suffering from embarrassing burn rings for years and thought I would just have to live with them.... "Thank you YankeeMarshal!"...
Sorry, I was just imagining I was in a black & white 1950s TV commercial... Seriously though, great info...